The use of lime to deoxidize the soil. Soil acidity - how to determine and deoxidize

The increased acidity of the soil does not contribute to a good harvest, it needs to be deoxidized. Some vegetable crops very sensitive to acidic soil. Autumn is the most suitable time for work in the garden to neutralize the soil.

How to determine if the soil is acidic

With increased acidity of the soil, plants do not absorb part of it from it. useful substances. To reap a good harvest, you need to pay attention to the condition of the soil. If the acidity is increased, weeds such as dandelion, horse sorrel, horsetail, as a rule, grow in large quantities in such areas.

You can determine the acidity of the soil using indicator strips. There are no less reliable folk methods. For example, you can take earth in a tablespoon and pour a small amount of 9% vinegar on it. If the soil is alkaline, a lot of foam will form. Neutral soil does not give such a violent reaction. If the soil is acidic, there will be no foam at all.

How to deoxidize the soil in the garden in the fall

To neutralize the soil, it is necessary to add an alkaline component to it. Dolomite flour, lime, chalk, ash are suitable for these purposes.

Dolomite flour

Dolomite flour is a crushed powder obtained from rock. It not only deoxidizes the soil, but also loosens it, improving the structure. Dolomite flour enriches the soil with magnesium, which is very important for light soils.

Dolomite flour is applied in the following proportions:

• for slightly acidic soils (pH 6–7) - 0.3–0.4 kg per 1 sq.m.

Flour must be evenly distributed over the entire area before autumn digging.

The introduction of dolomite flour for soil deoxidation

chalk

Chalk is great for deoxidizing the soil in the fall. Pre-dry chalk should be crushed, and then introduced into the soil before digging, focusing on the following standards:

• for acidic soils (up to pH 4.5) - 0.5–0.7 kg per 1 sq.m;
• for medium acid soils (pH 4.5–6) - 0.4 kg per 1 sq.m;
• for slightly acidic soils (pH 6–7) - 0.2–0.3 kg per 1 sq.m.

Deoxidation with fluffy lime

Lime is a fairly aggressive agent for deoxidizing the soil. After adding it to the soil, the plants do not absorb phosphorus for some time, so liming is best done in late autumn. To neutralize, it is better to use fluffy lime, focusing on the following standards:

• for acidic soils (up to pH 4.5) - 0.5 kg per 1 sq.m;
• for medium acid soils (pH 4.5–6) - 0.3 kg per 1 sq.m;
• for slightly acidic soils (pH 6–7) - 0.2 kg per 1 sq.m.

Lime is an excellent soil deoxidizer.

Ash deoxidation

Ash is not only an excellent mineral fertilizer, but also a means for deoxidizing the soil. Ash can be applied in autumn to neutralize slightly acidic soils at the rate of 1–1.5 kg of ash per 1 sq. m.

I don’t use ash for soil deoxidation, because its consumption is quite large, and this leads to the fact that too many microelements accumulate in the soil. In addition, the calcium content of ash can vary greatly depending on the type of wood and other factors. It is difficult to calculate the exact amount needed for deoxidation. I prefer dolomite flour or ordinary chalk. To determine the acidity of the soil, I use indicator strips.

How to check the result

Check the result of autumn soil deoxidation better in spring. During the winter, all the necessary chemical reactions will take place in the soil. You can determine its acidity using litmus paper or folk methods. You can use a special device, which is very convenient. If the result is satisfactory and the acidity of the soil is neutral, re-deacidification of the soil is not required. Otherwise, you can re-deoxidize the soil in the spring.

To deoxidize the soil in the fall, you can add lime, chalk or dolomite flour to it. Ash as a deoxidizer is used only in areas where the soil reaction is close to neutral.

In chemistry, pH is an index that indicates how acidic or alkaline a particular substrate is. pH values ​​range from 0 to 14: if the pH value is approximately 0, this indicates a very acidic environment, if it approaches 14, it is alkaline. A pH value of 7 indicates a neutral medium. In horticulture and horticulture, the pH of the soil in which plants are grown can have a major impact on plant growth and health. While most plants grow well in a pH of 6.5-7, there are varieties that grow much better in a certain soil acidity, so serious gardeners need to learn the basics of soil acidity management. Start with the first step and you will learn how to lower the pH of the soil in your garden.

Steps

Part 1

Check the pH level of the soil. Before adding anything to the soil to change its acidity, be sure to check how different its pH is from what you need. You can purchase a self-testing pH kit from a gardening supply store or see if you can get a soil test done by a professional.

Dig 5 small holes in the area. The easiest way to determine the pH of your soil is with a pH kit. These kits are usually inexpensive and are available at many hardware and garden supply stores. Start by taking soil samples from the area where you want to test the pH. Dig five small holes, 15-20 cm deep. The location of the holes should be random within the plot - this will give you an "average" pH value of your soil. The soil that you got from the holes, you do not need now.

• Please note that in this section we provide only the most general instructions - you will need to follow the instructions that came with your pH kit.

1. Take a soil sample from each hole. So, take a spade or shovel and cut a narrow "slice" of soil from the side of each hole. This "slice" should be crescent shaped, 1.3 cm thick. Place the samples in a clean, dry basket.

   • Try to take enough soil from each hole so that the total volume of the sample is approximately 0.94 liters or even more. For most methods, this is sufficient.

2. Mix the soil in the basket and spread it in a thin layer on the newspaper to dry it. Let the soil dry until it feels dry when you touch it.

   Use the kit to determine the exact pH level of your soil. The determination method will depend on your specific test kit. For most kits, you need to put a small amount of soil in a special test tube, add a few drops to it special solution, shake well and put the resulting suspension to settle for several hours. After some time, the color of the solution should change, and by comparing the resulting solution with the color chart that came with the test, you can determine the pH of your soil.

   • There are other soil pH kits available, so follow the instructions that come with your kit. For example, some modern electronic pH meters measure almost instantaneously with a metal sample.

3. Lower the pH for flowers like petunias or begonias. Many are bright flowering plants, such as petunia and begonia, grow best in acidic soils. For some of these colors, acidity changes from subacid before Very acid can lead to a visible change in the color of the flowers. For example, if you grow a hydrangea in an area where the soil pH is 6.0-6.2, then pink flowers will bloom on the plant. If you lower the pH to 5.0-5.2, then you will grow flowers with blue or purple petals.

   Lower the pH for evergreen trees. Many evergreens coniferous trees grow on slightly acidic soils. For example, spruce, pine and fir thrive if the soil pH is 5.5-6.0. Some ferns can even tolerate acidic soils where the pH is 4.0.

   Find specific sources for gardeners and gardeners for a detailed list of plants that prefer acidic soil. The list of plants that can or prefer to grow in acidic soils is too extensive to include in this article. For more information, we can refer to special botanical reference books. They can usually be found in gardening stores or bought in a special section of any bookstore. In addition, you can find information on the Internet. For example, the official website of the Old Farmer's Almanac contains a table that shows the soil acidity preference for many plants (you can find it here).

• Some additives that change the acidity of the soil are sold in the form of sprays.
• It is very important not to overdo it with the amount of soil additives used. They have a long-term effect on the soil and on the environment in general.
• Plants grown in soil with an unsuitable pH cannot grow well because some of the nutrients may be in the soil in bound form, and thus not available to plants.
• The effect after the introduction of natural sulfur will persist for several seasons.
• It is best to apply sulfur in early spring, when the plants are already planted, it is very difficult to introduce sulfur into the soil.
• Soil pH is affected by many factors, from how well a site drains to how quickly the erosion process occurs.
• If possible, use natural compost. It is very beneficial for plants because it provides them with many nutrients. You can even make compost from kitchen waste and grass cuts from your lawn.
• Sulfur and compost create conditions for biochemical reactions in the soil, while aluminum and iron sulfates undergo chemical interaction.

Warnings

• Too much aluminum sulfate can poison the soil.
• If you have sprayed urea, aluminum sulfate or sulfur on plant leaves, wash them big amount cool water. If you leave these chemicals on the leaves, they will "burn" the leaves, causing unsightly stains.

The composition of the soil, and in particular its acidity, directly affects the normal development of crops. Since most plants thrive in neutral, alkaline, and slightly acidic environments, periodic liming of the site will create optimal conditions for their growth, assimilation of nutrients and abundant fruiting.

Soil deoxidation is a periodic measure, carried out approximately once every 5 years “according to indications”. Liming will benefit garden crops only if the earth is really characterized by high acidity.

Soil pH can be determined using laboratory tests performed by agrotechnical enterprises. You can independently determine the acidity of the soil in different parts of your land using a special device or litmus indicators.

In addition to the above methods, the increased acidity of the soil and the need for liming can be determined by specific features:

• the earth acquires a whitish or grayish tint;
• weeds (horsetail, nettle, sorrel, sorrel, buttercup) are actively growing;
• planted clover does not want to take root;
• when digging, a whitish layer is found in the soil.

Why is it necessary to lime the soil in the presence of signs of increased acidity? Deoxidation is required, since such an environment has a detrimental and depressing effect on the development of garden and horticultural crops:

1. In an acidic environment, plants cannot qualitatively assimilate phosphorus and nitrogen, which are necessary for their growth and development.
2. The increased acidity of the soil reduces the effectiveness of beneficial bacteria that live in it, and increases the activity of pathogenic microorganisms, which are attacked by already weakened cultivated plants.

To help the plants, it is necessary to periodically deoxidize the soil. A slightly acidic environment is most comfortable for many crops, so careful liming will allow you to create an optimal environment for them to grow and develop.

What deoxidizes the soil

Soil deoxidation can be carried out by any alkaline compounds and substances:

• wood ash;
• lake lime (layers);
• chalk;
• dolomite flour;
• peat ash;
• crushed eggshell.

The most accessible means for deoxidation is slaked or ordinary lime. This substance has a constant composition, so it is easy to dose it depending on the pH readings in different parts of the earth and the nature of the soil.

It is important to bear in mind that many substances used in liming, in addition to the effect of deoxidation, introduce certain micro- and macroelements into the soil: wood ash contains up to 35% calcium, chalk and drywall - calcium carbonate, dolomite flour - magnesium, and eggshell - a whole range of useful minerals. elements.

Optimal timing for liming

It is advisable to carry out liming in advance, before the start of sowing, in which case the pH of the soil will have time to level off to values ​​that are comfortable for garden and horticultural crops. You can make deoxidation:

1. Immediately after the purchase of the plot, before laying the garden and distributing the land for the garden.
2. In autumn, along with fertilization (except for manure). In this case, the earth must be dug up after liming.
3. In winter - by scattering dolomite flour directly on the snow. Having melted, it will carry away alkaline substances into the soil, evenly distributing them in depth.
4. In spring - at least 3 weeks before sowing, and only on beds intended for beets and cabbage. Other crops are planted on limed land only the next year.

If you need to deoxidize the soil throughout the area, it is better to do this in the fall, then in the spring the land will be completely ready for sowing.

It will be enriched with nutrients important for the development of crops, and an improved pH will activate the vital activity of beneficial bacteria, increase the efficiency of fertilizers applied during the season by 40%.

Autumn deoxidation

So, autumn liming of the soil is the most optimal way to deoxidize it. The initial treatment in the presence of an acidic pH reaction is carried out using ordinary or slaked lime according to the following proportions:

Timely cardinal autumn deoxidation allows you to solve a number of serious problems:

• activate the work of beneficial bacteria;
• increase the absorption of important trace elements;
• by splitting acids into simple elements, improve the mineral composition of the soil;
• increase the efficiency of mineral and organic fertilizers;
• reduce the number of toxic elements in the soil due to their splitting;
• improve the physical properties of the soil in the beds, increasing water permeability.

To maintain the achieved pH value in the soil, it is necessary to regularly introduce substances that have an alkaline reaction.

Traditionally, before autumn digging, gardeners scatter organic fertilizers around the site and scatter wood ash. The latter allows you to keep a slightly acidic level of the earth and enriches it with elements useful for crops.

Features of garden crops

Undoubtedly, acidic soils adversely affect the development of garden and horticultural crops, but the uncontrolled use of alkaline compounds can harm plants. Excessive passion for deoxidation of the earth will lead to an excess of calcium, which will greatly hinder the growth of root systems.

Cardinal liming of the entire area in accordance with a certain pH level and soil type is impractical, since different cultures required Various types soils. On the other hand, it is quite difficult to deoxidize different beds, given the crop rotation.

The easiest way is to reduce the consumption of lime during reclamation activities, making the soil medium acidic, and then for each crop, “adjust” its composition in the spring using wood ash. Some plants do not need to change the pH at all, they feel comfortable only in acidic conditions.

So, what are the requirements of different crops for the pH level of the soil:

1. Slightly acidic environment (PH 6-7) like beans, tomatoes, dill, corn, collard greens and eggplant. The beds intended for melons, watermelons, squash, zucchini and carrots, as well as for garlic, onions and radishes, do not need liming either.
2. Medium acid soil (PH 5-6.5) will suit peppers, potatoes, beans, sorrel, parsnips and pumpkins.
3. Strongly acidic soil (PH<5) идеальна для рябины, можжевельника, а также ягодных кустиков — голубики, клюквы, брусники и черники.

When liming the soil, the main thing is not to overdo it with the introduced substances, since the alkaline environment will not be to the liking of any plant you cultivate.

Cardinal deoxidation must be carried out in the presence of obvious signs of an acidic environment or according to the results of tests, instrumental and laboratory measurements, and - no more than once every 5 years.

To get a good harvest, it is not enough to sow the grain and provide it with decent care. The earth is the womb in which the seed will develop, nourish and grow. And the yields will depend on how fertile and well-groomed it is. Often, many gardeners believe that it is enough only to periodically apply fertilizer to the soil, and then it will be quite nutritious and will certainly give an excellent harvest. But this is not always enough. Experienced gardeners and summer residents use another method of refining - soil deoxidation. In spring or autumn, they add some additives to the soil, which make the soil pH more neutral and at the same time saturate it with the necessary natural trace elements. Why, when and how to do it correctly, we will tell today. Let's dwell on five simple ways that will be affordable and easy to use.

What is it for?

First you need to know that not all plants like acidic and alkaline soil. So, for example, they love sorrel and acidic soil, but tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage will grow poorly on it. One suburban area can have both the same acidity over the entire area, or completely different. Therefore, before deciding to deacidify the soil in the spring, you should determine what the pH level is in each part of your vegetable garden and what you plan to grow there.

Acidic earth is a paradise for fungi and pathogenic bacteria, plants simply do not have enough vitality to overcome such an attack, and therefore they often get sick, but there are few beneficial microorganisms in it. A lot of weeds grow on the ground, and cultivars do not take root well, they develop poorly and often die for a reason that is not clear to the owner. A high pH indicates that the earth contains a lot of hydrogen ions. When the owner of the site tries to fertilize the soil and makes additional mineral (or any other) fertilizers, hydrogen reacts with them, because of which they are converted, and the plant simply cannot use them for its own purposes. Soil deoxidation in spring or autumn will help reduce the level of aluminum and manganese, but other elements: magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, molybdenum and nitrogen - will be present in the required amount and will be perfectly absorbed.

How to determine the acidity of the earth?

Of course, absolutely accurate results can only be obtained in the laboratory. This is a good way, but not practical. Therefore, experienced gardeners have found for themselves several simple options for recognizing acidity.

One of the easiest

Take two transparent containers and pour a teaspoon of earth into each. Add some 9% vinegar and stir. If the solution foams - the soil is alkaline, it foams quite a bit - neutral, air bubbles do not appear at all - acidic.

Reading on plants

The acidity of the beds with beets can be recognized very simply. The plant will have green leaves, red petioles, and a poorly developed root system if the earth is alkaline. On green leaves, red streaks are slightly acidic. But if the leaves have a rich beet shade, the beets grow large, well developed - the soil is acidic.

Weeds will finally be useful. Where wheatgrass grows - the scourge of many summer residents, the earth is slightly acidic. Woodlouse loves sour, but bindweed and most vegetable crops love alkaline earth.

Soil deoxidation in the spring should be carried out, starting from the acidity of the earth: the higher it is, the more deoxidizers will need to be introduced. It is important not to overdo it and observe the dosage, because an excess of alkali will harm the earth even more than excessive acidity.

Lime or "fluff"?

Most often, soil deoxidation is carried out in spring with lime. This is one of the easiest and cheapest options. They use it for this, add a little water to the usual one and stir. It should become loose, having reacted with water. She is often referred to as "fluff". Lime has the most pronounced neutralizing effect and is ideal for very acidic soils.

If you plan to deoxidize the soil in the spring, the rate of introduction of the finished "fluff" will be in the range of 50-150 grams per square meter of area. The degree of acidification of the earth should be taken into account. After the lime has been introduced into the soil, it should be mixed with the top layer of the earth (depth 15-20 cm).

Dolomite flour

Soil deoxidation is also carried out in the spring with dolomite flour. Such material will be more expensive than ordinary lime, but if possible, why not? also called calcareous (CaCO 3). It, like the "fluff", is undesirable to be introduced into the soil at the same time as saltpeter, superphosphate, urea or manure. So try to stick to one thing. It is useful to introduce dolomite flour immediately before planting crops, unlike "fluff", it does not burn the plant. It can be added to the ground at any time of the year, but usually it is autumn or spring.

It is entered at the following rate (per square meter):

• slightly acidic - 300-400 g;
• medium acid - 400-500 g;
• sour - 500-600 g.

Dolomite flour is not used for soils on which gooseberries, sorrel, blueberries and cranberries grow. Treatment with such a deoxidizer should be carried out every three years.

Chalk

It will be useful to deoxidize the soil in spring with chalk. This additive is more neutral and is well suited for soil with low acidity. Chalk grains should be small, no more than 1-2 mm.

Deoxidize the earth from such calculations (per square meter):

The earth is sprinkled with chalk, and then the top layer of soil is mixed.

Ash

Ash is an excellent fertilizer, loosens well, and even deoxidizes the soil. The only thing that can cause inconvenience is that it will need three times more than, for example, lime flour. It has minor properties. So, per square meter of alkalized land, 1-1.5 kg of ash will be needed. It is applied during spring digging in a dry, crushed form. If you have a large plot, and the land is highly acidic, a rational solution would be to use lime.

Phacelia

Another easy way, and most importantly - completely natural, and even beautiful! This plant is planted throughout the site, then mowed and distributed on the ground. This can be repeated several times, phacelia grows very quickly - in 20 days.

Every experienced gardener knows what not to throw away. It is collected, dried, crushed and added to the soil. So the earth receives a lot of useful trace elements, and at the same time its acidity decreases.

Here are some simple and useful tips for those who love and practice growing tasty and healthy products on their site. All these examples are quite simple and will not take much time. It is enough to carry out such ennoblement once every 3-4 years. The earth will certainly thank you for your work - it will give you an excellent and rich harvest.

Reading time: 8 minutes

Specialist with 7 years experience in horticultural crops

High soil pH is a threat to the entire crop. Only by knowing how to deoxidize the soil in the garden, you can save the crops growing on it. This is done by various means, each of which must be studied separately: the frequency of use, for what conditions it is suitable and how to apply it correctly.

How to determine the acidity of the soil

Different crops grow in the same garden in different ways. It depends not only on the fertility of the soil, but also on its acidification. It, like alkalization, limits plants in nutrients. Acidic soil is unsuitable for some beneficial bacteria and damages the roots of many crops. Such an influence spoils the entire crop.

Any soil belongs to one of three types: alkaline, neutral or acidic.

The latter type is further divided into several categories. They are called the degree of acidity, denoted as pH:

• slightly acidic - 5.1–5.5 pH;
• medium acid - 4.6–5.0 pH;
• strongly acidic - 4.1–4.5 pH;
• very acidic - 3.8–4.0 pH.

Terms and methods of determination

Samples are taken twice a year: before the season and at the end of it. This is the key to a reliable analysis, since the pH of the earth varies with the crops growing on it. Determining the acidity of the soil begins with the zoning of the site: you need to designate areas for a vegetable garden, a garden, a berry garden, a pharmacy garden, etc. Further, each such sector is checked separately. After receiving the results, the soil is deoxidized where necessary.

It is possible to accurately determine the pH value only in laboratory conditions. If this is not possible, then five popular methods will help:

• Litmus (indicator) paper. The method is as follows:

1. The soil (1 part) is poured with distilled water (2 parts), insisting this mixture for 20 minutes. The soil is taken at a depth of 20-50 cm, and not from the surface - the pH on it is lower than in the depths.
2. An indicator (litmus paper) is dipped into this solution.
3. If the paper turns red, then the earth is acidic. The color of the indicator remained the same - it means the pH is at the level of 5.0–5.5. Green color is a sign of neutral soil.

• Table vinegar. The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. They take a handful of earth from the garden.
2. A little vinegar (6% or 9%) is dripped onto it.
3. If the soil “boils”, bubbles appear on it, or a hiss is simply heard, then it means it is neutral / slightly acidic. The lack of reaction to vinegar is a sign of low pH.

• Leaves of currant or cherry. They are needed for the solution in which the soil is tested:

1. Several sheets (4–5) are poured with boiling water (200 ml), letting it brew for about 15 minutes.
2. The solution cools down and a little earth from the garden is put into it.
3. If the water turns red, then the soil is acidic. The liquid turned blue - the soil is neutral. The green tint indicates the low acidity of the earth.

• Weed grass. After examining what grows in the garden, you can determine the degree of its acidification:

1. Horsetail, plantain, heather, sorrel, wild mustard, sedge, meadow cornflowers, oxeye - high acidity of the soil. It is noteworthy that mint in such a plot grows rapidly, turning into a weed.
2. Clover, bindweed, coltsfoot, fescue, wheatgrass - the soil is neutral or slightly acidic.
3. Larkspur, wild poppy, field mustard, fluffy chistets, beans - alkaline soil.

• Beet. The color of her tops will indicate the acidity of the soil:

1. Red is strongly acidic.
2. Green with red veins - slightly acidic.
3. Green is neutral.

How to reduce the acidity of the soil in the garden

Most vegetable and fruit crops ripen only on slightly acidic, neutral or slightly alkaline soil. Soil deacidification is the only way to raise its pH to the desired level (i.e., to 5.0 and above). This is done by the following means:

• lime (liming);
• wood ash (isolation);
• dolomite flour;
• green manure;
• complex preparations-deoxidizers.

Slaked lime

Also known as "fluff". The garden is not deoxidized with quicklime - it gathers in lumps, causing a glut of itself. "Pushenka" is sold in agricultural. stores, but you can also make it at home:

1. Pour lime with water (100 kg of product per 40-50 liters of water), mix.
2. Shake when the moisture is absorbed and the lime is dry. This will result in a homogeneous powder.

Soil deoxidation with lime is first carried out on chernozems. The reason is that it is so simply cheaper than dolomite flour. The latter still saturates the earth with microelements, and in fertile soils they are already in abundance. The general practice is that lime is able to deoxidize clay, loamy, sandy and sandy soils.

The action of the "fluff" does not take much time, so it is used in gardens for fast-growing crops (tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini). You can also lime the soil for fruit trees, but then this is done 2 years before they are planted. Application volumes depend on the type of land and its acidity level:

The procedure is simple: lime is evenly scattered over the surface of the soil, and then it is dug up to a depth of 20 cm. It is important to remember that “fluff” is a hard deoxidizer. It is able to burn the roots of young plants, so liming with digging is carried out in the fall. This is done in two stages:

1. Main (every 3-4 years). The volumes of lime and the depth of digging are the same as described above.
2. Repeated (annually after the main stage). It is only needed to control the already reached pH value. The dose of lime applied per 1 m 2 is reduced by 1.5–2 times from the main one. Digging depth - only 5-10 cm.

It is impossible to combine liming with fertilizers. This is done in different seasons: soil deoxidation in autumn, and top dressing in spring. Otherwise, plants can hardly absorb potassium and phosphorus, and some nutrients will completely become insoluble.

Chalk

Safely deoxidizes the earth and at the same time contains calcium, which is especially important for nightshade crops (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes). It is not necessary to extinguish the chalk, but it is used only in the form of a powder without lumps. The optimal diameter of the grains is no more than 1 mm. Otherwise, the effect of liming will decrease, and it will act an order of magnitude later.

Chalk deoxidizes clay, loamy, sandy and sandy soils. It is applied annually, and the volume norms depend on the pH of the soil:

• slightly acidic - 200–300 g / m 2;
• medium acid - 400 g / m 2;
• sour - 500–700 g / m 2.

The garden is deoxidized with chalk both in autumn and in spring. Winter time is a bad option, since the powder is easily washed away by melt water. The procedure is still the same as with the "fluff": the chalk is evenly scattered over the surface of the soil, digging it to a depth of 20-25 cm.

wood ash

Reduces the acidity of the earth, but does not saturate it with calcium. The deficiency of the latter is the cause of the development of rot in many plants, so wood ash is always combined with other means or preparations.

Isolation, like liming, is carried out in two stages. The entry rules are as follows:

There is also an analogue of wood ash - peat. It has a much poorer composition. There are negligibly few active components that react with soil acids in peat ash. Its dose is increased to such volumes:

1. The main stage is 2.4–2.8 kg / m 2.
2. Repeated stage - 400-600 g / m 2.

Ash, like lime, is also evenly scattered over the soil, digging it to a depth of 20 cm. It is important not to combine this alkaline agent with fertilizers. Otherwise, it reacts with nutrients, making them unavailable for absorption by plants.

Soil deoxidation with dolomite flour

Expensive, deoxidizes longer than slaked lime, but enriches the soil with useful trace elements. Another plus of dolomite flour is its environmental friendliness. The tool is used mainly on light sandy and sandy soils. Such lands always lack magnesium, and dolomite flour restores it.

Given the unhurried impact, it is advisable to deoxidize areas for slow crops (potatoes, trees, fruit bushes) with it. The exceptions are soils on which gooseberries, sorrel, cranberries and blueberries grow. They are not treated with dolomite flour.

The material is chosen with the finest grinding so that the substrate deoxidizes faster. The best option for flour is a moisture content of no more than 1.5% and that the diameter of at least 2/3 of the grains does not exceed 0.25 mm. The concentration of the drug depends on the pH of the soil:

• slightly acidic - 350–400 g / m 2;
• medium acid - 450–500 g / m 2;
• strongly acidic - 500–600 g / m 2.

Flour is evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, and then it is dug up to a depth of 20 cm. It is useful to apply it before planting crops - the roots of plants, unlike "fluff", will not burn. It is undesirable to combine flour with fertilizers (nitrate, superphosphate, urea, manure). It is necessary to deoxidize the soil with this tool only once every 3 years.

green manure plants

They are sown in the fall to ripen in the spring and raise the pH of the soil. The roots of such annual and perennial plants loosen the soil, transferring nutrients from the depth to the surface. Siderates are also special in that their green biomass completely replaces the same manure.

A popular option is phacelia honey plant. This perennial deoxidizes the soil a year after planting. Next, the stems of the plant are cut and scattered around the garden - this is how additional fertilizer is obtained. You can also regulate the pH of the earth with other green manure:

All these plants deoxidize the soil within a radius of 10 m around them and at a depth of 0.5 m. The same result is obtained when planting some trees:

• hornbeam;
• birch;
• alder;
• pine.

Complex preparations-deoxidizers

The convenience is that their composition, chemical purity and fineness of grinding are verified in advance. Complex preparations contain not only deoxidizing substances, but also useful trace elements (calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, boron, zinc, etc.). This improves the fertility of the soil.

The selected preparation is scattered on the soil surface, dug up to a depth of 20 cm, and then watered. It is recommended to make it either in the fall or in the spring. The soil deoxidizes after 2-3 years. The following products are in demand in the market:

• Argumin;
• Agrozin;
• Dolomite-Impex;
• Lime-Gumi.

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