How to make the roof insulation from the inside correctly - a step-by-step guide. How to insulate the roof of the house from the inside with your own hands? Features of insulation of different buildings

This time I decided to tell you how to insulate the roof from the inside with your own hands. Despite the fact that this operation is quite simple, it contains a number of nuances, which you will learn about below.

Warming technology

The process of roof insulation can be divided into four stages:

Preparation of materials

First of all, you need to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material.

There are several options:

• polystyrene is a cheap heat-insulating material with low thermal conductivity - 0.037 - 0.043 W / mK. Despite these advantages, foam is not often used for roof insulation, as it is a combustible material and has zero vapor permeability. Another serious disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is that it releases toxins during combustion;

• mineral wool is an environmentally friendly and fireproof material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK. Due to its good vapor permeability, it allows the roof to "breathe". Therefore, in my opinion, mineral wool is the best option for roof insulation;

• extruded polystyrene foam is a more durable insulation than ordinary polystyrene foam, which also has low thermal conductivity - 0.028-0.034 W / mK. Thanks to special additives, extruded polystyrene foam, as a rule, has a G1 flammability class, i.e. is a low combustible material. Another advantage of EPPS is that the material is not afraid of moisture, therefore it does not require hydro-vapor barrier.

As for the shortcomings, they include a high price (on average 4000-4500 rubles per cubic meter). Another disadvantage is the low vapor permeability.

If the attic space will be used as residential, it is best to use basalt wool as a heater. This material is the most environmentally friendly.

Also, to insulate the roof from the inside, some other materials will be needed:

• vapor barrier;
• antiseptic impregnation for wood;
• wooden slats.

Roof preparation

Before insulating the roof of the house with your own hands, you need to prepare the roof as follows:

1. if the housing has already been operated, it is imperative to inspect the rafter for damage and other flaws. If rotten or cracked parts are found, they must be replaced, repaired or strengthened;
2. if the thickness of the rafters is less than the thickness of the insulation, it must be increased. To do this, boards or bars should be attached to the rafters;
3. then all the wooden parts of the roof, including the rafters, must be treated with an antiseptic. Thanks to this, the tree will be protected from decay and all kinds of negative biological influences.

Impregnation is applied with a brush. You can also use a spray bottle. detailed instructions on the use of the composition is usually available on the package;

1. if during the installation of the roofing the waterproofing was not performed or it was damaged over time, it must be done from the inside. For these purposes, a superdiffuse membrane should be used.

The waterproofing of the roof from the inside is attached to the rafters and the crate with a stapler or even nails and wooden planks. The lower edge of the film should be brought under the roof overhang to drain condensate.

Roof insulation

Now you can start warming the roof with your own hands.

The work is done like this:

1. first equip the ventilation gap between the vapor barrier membrane and the waterproofing. To do this, you need to retreat from the waterproofing film a centimeter and a half and nail nails to the rafters. Then, between the nails, a cord must be pulled in a zigzag pattern, which will serve as a limiter;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the rafter legs. To fix it, you can use a stapler.

I must say that in the case of using extruded polystyrene foam, it is not necessary to equip the ventilation gap and install a vapor barrier. Ordinary polystyrene foam, although slightly, still absorbs moisture, therefore, it needs a vapor barrier;

1. now you can perform roof insulation. For this, the insulation boards must be placed between rafter legs.

Keep in mind that the slabs must fit snugly against the rafter legs as well as against each other. If gaps appear between the insulation, they will serve as cold bridges, respectively, the effectiveness of thermal insulation will decrease.

To fix the plates between the rafters, you can hammer in studs and pull the threads in a zigzag pattern, as in the photo above.

1. after warming pitched roof is completed, another layer of vapor barrier should be fixed to the rafters. Both in the first and in the second case, the membrane strips must be overlapped by 10 cm. In this case, the joints should be glued with adhesive tape;

1. on top of the vapor barrier, you need to fix the crate using slats or boards. The crate will provide a ventilation space between the finishing material and the vapor barrier. In addition, it will allow you to level the surface before installing the finish coat, if the attic will be used as a living space.

If the house is just being built, it is possible to insulate the roof from the outside during the installation process roofing material. In this case, a filing is first made from the side of the attic, after which a vapor barrier and the insulation itself are laid on it. Thanks to this, it is not necessary to additionally fix the thermal insulation between the rafters.

This completes the thermal insulation of the roof of the house with your own hands. Now all that's left is to assemble finishing material- drywall or, for example, lining.

Warming of gables

If you are insulating the roof of a house from the inside in order to equip a residential attic space, it is imperative to perform thermal insulation of gables, unless, of course, the roof is gable. Let me remind you that the pediment is a part of the wall located between the slopes of the roof.

The process of warming the gables from the inside looks like this:

1. to provide ventilation space, wooden slats are fixed on the pediment in increments of 0.5 m vertically and 2-3 cm horizontally;

1. a vapor barrier is attached to the rails, as a result of which a ventilation gap is formed;
2. Next, vertical racks are installed. You can attach them to the rails using corners and self-tapping screws or direct suspensions.

In order for the inner surface of the gables to turn out to be even, the racks must be placed in the same plane. To do this, first install the two extreme racks in a strictly vertical position, then fasten several threads to them on different levels. Use the threads as beacons to align the rest of the uprights;

1. further work is carried out in the same way as with roof insulation - the space between the racks is insulated, after which the vapor barrier membrane is fixed and the crate is installed;
2. on the side of the facade on the gables under the canopy, several small holes must be made in order for the ventilation gap to work, i.e. wicked away moisture.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to insulate the roof of a house with your own hands.

Conclusion

From the article, you learned the main nuances of roof insulation from the inside, which will allow you to cope with this task without the help of specialists. I recommend watching the video in this article. With all additional questions regarding roof insulation, you can contact me in the comments, and I will try to answer you as soon as possible.

Well, of course, we are talking about how to insulate the roof of a private house. Because in private houses, they try to entrust the care of roof insulation to public utilities, so that they work out at least part of the money collected. In addition, if a person is looking for the topic of roof insulation, then, I believe, he wants to do warm attic or an attic to live in. Well, this is also a private issue.

The difference between the attic, attic and roof

Clarification 1. The attic floor (attic floor) is not a roof, so we will not touch it here, there are separate articles for it about the insulation of the concrete ceiling and about the insulation of the wooden floor.

The roof includes: rafters, lathing, roofing material. Conscientious people add waterproofing to the above - if the roofing material is made of steel (metal tiles, corrugated board). Here we are talking about the insulation of this structure. As you might guess, there is a roof even if there is no attic (the ceiling and the roof are one).

Clarification 2. There is a question: “how to properly insulate the attic?” or “how to insulate the attic?”. This is about the same thing, because the attic is also an attic, only a slightly different shape. And that's what this article is about. Read on.

Clarification 3. This article is only about roof insulation from the inside - from the side of the attic ... or what do you have there? Insulation over roofing material is not here.

Specification 4. It does not matter the material of the walls and the purpose of the building: a bathhouse, a house, a garage ... we insulate the roof in the same way as described below.

Attic roof device

It seems to be off topic of the article, but I’ll say a few words, if you don’t need it, skip it and read on. Although, in order for the entire roof structure to be "warm", correct device roofing also plays a role. Well, for example, the insulation will get wet, because we were greedy for waterproofing, and then ... was it necessary to put insulation on the fig? If convinced - we read in a row.

For the installation of a roof, you just need to fulfill the requirements specified by the manufacturer of the material we have chosen. It is said abstrusely, but in reality everything is simple: it is necessary to arrange gaps for ventilation of the under-roof space, so that the insulation is dry. And such gaps are made very simply. A waterproofing material is attached on top of the rafters, and we attach slats to the rafters, as in the photo:

This is the counter-lattice, due to which we will get a gap for ventilation of the under-roof space. In the photo, the slats with a section of 25x50 mm are nailed to the rafters, if memory serves, 90 mm.

A crate is attached perpendicular to the counter-lattice:

Well, I didn't insulate my attic, so for complete picture I'll give you a diagram:

Roof insulation materials

Here are the heaters that you may have been considering for the roof of your house: polystyrene foam, glass wool, mineral wool, ecowool, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam. A few words about the suitability of each for our task.

Important! From the above list, immediately remove the foam and all its relatives. Including polyurethane. Why? As a rule, the insulation is laid between the rafters. So, pay attention and remember: it is IMPOSSIBLE to stuff foam between the rafters! Steam does NOT pass through the foam, which means it will tend to pass through the wood of the rafters, which is why the rafters will rot and collapse. And now my favorite question: do you need it?

I foresee a cry "from the audience": "There is a vapor-permeable polyurethane (PU)!" Do you think you got it? No. This "thing" without normal ventilation will accumulate moisture in itself and then collapse from frost, turn into dust.

I would definitely insulate the roof of my house with "cotton" materials (mineral wool, glass wool, linen mats, etc.). First, they breathe. Secondly, for example, mice do not settle in glass wool.

Discussions on the topic. I came across a statement saying that problems need to be solved as they come. I like this: the smart one knows how to get out of trouble, the wise one knows how not to get into it. How does this relate to the topic? Yes, it’s very simple: I have been living in the village for several years and I know firsthand about the invasion of mice in the fall. I know where they can settle down... And if they can, then they will settle down, if conditions are created for that. So what the hell do they need to create these conditions with their own hands and for their own money, so that later they can think about how to evict them? Well, that's my approach, you think for yourself. By the way, since I started to be smart, I won’t limit myself to half measures. Some of my friends also have an adobe house. And they insulated its walls with foam from the inside ... knock-knock-knock, who lives in the little house? There is also a saying about this: the smart one learns from his own mistakes, the wise one learns from the mistakes of others, the fool does not learn at all. So let's drink for all of us to be ... (desired to substitute :)).

If for insulation truss system to choose between glass wool and mineral wool, then, again, I would choose glass wool. Because with the same thickness, it is 10 ... 15% warmer than basalt wool and cheaper.

You can use linen mats - for additional insulation from the inside, as detailed below.

Ecowool has a worse coefficient of thermal resistance, it also slips and is difficult to lay (this is if the roof slope is rather steep; but, perhaps, it will go on a roof with a small slope). Another disadvantage is that ecowool shrinks, "sits down". Well, and most importantly: if for some reason the roof leaks right up to the ecowool, then drying it out will be a problem.

Roof insulation methods

There are two ways to insulate an attic.

The first way to insulate the attic

After insulation in the first way, the “pie” of the roof of the house looks like this:

It consists of the following materials (from inside to outside):

Such insulation has the disadvantage that it leaves cold bridges along the rafters.

The second way to insulate the attic

To eliminate the disadvantage of the first method, it is enough to add another layer of insulation inside the room. I believe, having considered the two proposed drawings, you will understand what the trick is here:

Bars of 50x50 mm are stuffed perpendicular to the rafters, between which additional thermal insulation is laid, which will block the cold bridges along the rafters. The intersections of the bars with the rafters have a relatively small area, so that they can already be neglected.

Important! Take another look at the two pictures above. On the second, the vapor barrier is attached to the rafters, and additional insulation over the vapor barrier. We do this if additional thermal insulation is made of natural material (NOT mineral wool, glass wool, etc.), for example, linen mats, etc. And after that, we fasten the sheathing (wood, plywood, drywall) without any additional vapor barrier, but closely with natural insulation. In the first picture, there is no vapor barrier yet, it will be on top of the additional insulation. This means that both the main and additional insulation are made of the same material (for example, glass wool). The reason is the lack of formaldehyde in mineral wool insulation, the penetration of which into the room must be stopped with a vapor barrier film. Do I need to say that for this the film must be intact?

Which of these two options is better? At the first time in the attic there will be a greenhouse effect and it will be stuffy, you need to take care of the ventilation system.

What are the common mistakes in roof insulation?

Possible errors when laying insulation are shown in the figure:

As it is now customary to say: "the interface is intuitive."

How to fix vapor barrier and waterproofing?

The vapor barrier is applied to the wall:

There are many films for vapor and waterproofing. For example, Tyvek:

This film has a good plus: it can be placed directly on the insulation. There must be a gap between all other films and the insulation. However, I came across the statement that all modern membranes for vapor and waterproofing are diffusion (I don’t know what this means, I think it’s something very good), so you can put the insulation close to the membrane. So, when buying a vapor-waterproofing for a roof, be interested in the properties of what you are purchasing.

Important! Vapor barrier and waterproofing must not be damaged.

Everything else is simple: we attach the film to the rafters along the entire length of the roof slope. We start from the bottom. Then, if the slope is wider than the width of the film, the second row - with an overlap on the bottom, at least 15 cm. We glue the overlap with adhesive tape. I heard that there is bitumen tape, which is much more reliable than usual. But I have not yet found it in "their" markets; if you find it, buy it and enjoy it.

The waterproofing membrane should sag between the rafters by 20 millimeters. Such sagging creates a gutter for moisture to drain. At the same time, the slats of the counter-lattice will not get wet, and will not rot.

There are several different films - anti-condensation. They have a layer of fleecy material applied on one side. The condensate is held on the pile and does not drain onto the insulation. As you might guess, you need to fasten such a film with the fleecy side towards the insulation:

More. Let's say you bought a film not some kind of "fancy", with a pile or something else (I can't keep track of all the new products), but simply a film for vapor or waterproofing. Without any markings, inscriptions and instructions. Question: which side to mount it?

Answer: such a film has one surface that is completely smooth, and the second is rougher. For vapor barrier, we fix the film with the rough side towards the room, so that moisture, settling on the surface of the film, does not roll down to the floor in streams, but evaporates from under the skin. For waterproofing (i.e. outside), we fix the film with a smooth surface towards the street so that water flows freely over the film.

There is also a corrugated board or metal tile with an anti-condensate layer on the inside:

Moisture remains on this layer and evaporates from it. But a film membrane is still needed. Because, in addition to protecting the insulation from moisture, it is also a wind barrier: it reduces (or completely eliminates) the blowing of thermal insulation by the wind (you know, the wind blows the cotton wool and then blows the heat out of the room).

Question: Is it worth using foil material for vapor barrier? Will this be additional insulation, because the foil, it seems, should reflect heat into the room?

Answer: the foil will reflect only if we leave a gap between it and the skin. If the sheathing is close to the vapor barrier, then there will be no heat reflection, but only a better and more expensive vapor barrier.

More. There is such a new "thing" as an active smart vapor barrier membrane. It works like this: high humidity in the room, the pores in this membrane close and do not let moisture into the insulation. And at low humidity - the pores open and moisture stretches from the insulation. Question: if the mineral wool insulation and its relatives, then why do we need such air? And if the insulation is natural, then no vapor barrier is needed at all. Conclusion: if in the store they try to give you this weight as "indispensable", then you just ... they try to give it to you.

In my opinion, what has been said is enough to be able to insulate the roof of the house with your own hands. It remains to put the theory into practice and get something that you can not buy for any money: experience. Good luck.

how to insulate a roof

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Without a well-insulated roof, it is impossible to imagine comfortable living in cold climatic conditions. So roof insulation becomes the key to the reliability of the whole house, its ability to protect residents from low temperatures and unpleasant drafts. And if available attic floor becomes prerequisite the possibility of using the premises.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to carry out roof insulation with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• • insulation Izover Profi in rolls;
  • construction stapler;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • roulette;

So the insulation of the roof with Izover mineral wool will not cause difficulties. The elasticity of the material will allow it to stand tightly in any design. Izover has other advantages:

• • • good thermal insulation properties;
    • dense filling of space;
    • longevity (50 years or more).

The next step, which includes do-it-yourself insulation of the roof from the inside, is the installation of a vapor barrier membrane.

It is attached to the rafters with a stapler. Overlap is required.

The joints of individual fragments of the membrane are glued with construction tape or mounting tape.

It is known to expand living space a private house is possible due to the attic spaces located under the roof, which, after insulation, are transformed into habitable rooms. But even in the absence of an attic (in the case of a pitched roof, for example), one should not forget about the reliable insulation of this part of the building, on which temperature regime in residential areas.

Insulation of the roof of operated houses is also relevant in conditions when the issue of saving heat is especially acute, most of which “leaves” precisely through this part of the building. Without additional thermal insulation, the cost of heating a house increases significantly, which can only be reduced by timely thermal insulation of under-roof spaces.

note

Simultaneously with the reduction of heating costs due to the insulation of the roof from the inside, it is possible to solve a number of related issues related to improving the quality of its hydro- and sound insulation.

Regardless of the type of roof structure (with an attic or without an attic at all), before insulating it, it is necessary to examine the roof in order to roughly assess the amount of work to be done.

Evaluation of the effectiveness of insulation measures

Technical expertise prior to roof insulation should be carried out taking into account the following important points:

• the level of heat loss is largely due to the source material used in the construction of the house (typical wood, brick or concrete);
• the effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on the presence or absence of utilities;
• the complexity of insulation work is determined by the type of roof structure ( gable roof, with a kink or single slope).

In addition, the effectiveness of thermal protection depends on such important factors as the type of insulation material, as well as the type of waterproofing film used.

Taking into account all the conditions listed above, an appraisal examination of the forthcoming work should be carried out, allowing you to correctly select materials and methods of thermal and waterproofing suitable for these conditions.

Attic insulation

Material selection

Since the roof and walls of the attic are located in the zone of possible contact with cold air, when choosing the material and method of their insulation, one should take into account the possibility of condensation on internal surfaces. To avoid this, preference is given to the method of thermal insulation, which allows you to create a kind of barrier to moisture in the form of a waterproofing film placed directly along the rafters (under the crate).

A suitable insulation material for these purposes must meet the following technical requirements:

1. Have good thermal conductivity and light weight.
2. Possess high resistance to moisture and fire.
3. Be able to retain its original shape and structure when subjected to random deformations.
4. To allow the possibility of use in conditions of severe frosts.
5. Have a long service life.

To protect the walls and ceilings of the attic from the inside, it is allowed to use any type of heat insulator that meets the above requirements. As a heater in this case, known varieties can be used. mineral wool, as well as rigid polyurethane foam, foam plastic and polystyrene foam plates.

Warming procedure

Before the beginning thermal insulation works it is necessary to decide on the method of roof insulation, selected from the following three options:

• complete dismantling roofing and carrying out complex insulation measures;
• raising its individual sections in order to place a waterproofing film under the crate;
• insulation without violating the integrity of the roof structure due to the impossibility of even partial dismantling.

In the first and second cases, work on the insulation and waterproofing of the attic is organized according to a typical scheme, which involves the formation of a roofing pie from a vapor barrier film, a layer of heat insulator and waterproofing.

In the case when it is not possible to dismantle or raise the roofing, the attic is insulated according to the following scheme:

1. First, from the walls and its ceiling is removed decorative coating, after which a sheet of waterproofing film is laid out between the rafter legs and along their protruding parts.
2. Then the stretched film material is securely fixed on the crate and rafters by means of a special construction stapler.
3. After that, slabs or mats of heat-insulating material are laid directly between the rafters or on top of them from the inside.

1. At the next step, a vapor barrier film is mounted directly on the insulation, protecting roofing cake from damp vapors spreading from the living quarters.
2. At the end of the attic insulation, the protective cake is closed with the previously removed decorative material.

note

The disadvantage of the considered option is the increased consumption of the waterproofing film.

Installation of insulation on the top of the rafter legs involves the use of additional ceiling hangers, which leads to a significant reduction in usable living space. For this reason, this method internal insulation attic is used extremely rarely (only in the case of sufficiently large volumes of the room or high ceilings).

Roof insulation with and without attic space

"Cold" attic

Insulation of the roof covering over a non-residential attic space provides quite comfortable conditions under which a stable temperature will be maintained in this space at any time of the year.

When insulating a “cold” attic from the inside, you should worry in advance about high-quality ventilation of the under-roof spaces, in the absence of which stagnation is possible.

Particular attention is paid in this case to waterproofing. attic floor, which reliably protects the under-roof spaces from precipitation and moisture.

The roofing pie, equipped in such an attic, is formed according to the scheme already discussed in the previous sections. The only difference is that installation work in this situation is greatly simplified. This is due to the lack of finishing material and greater freedom of action when choosing a method for forming a roofing cake (its thickness does not really matter).

note

flat roof

In the absence of a full-fledged attic space (in the case of flat roof with a minimum angle of inclination, for example) when insulating internal living spaces, as a rule, they face the following serious problems:

• the need for complete or partial disassembly of the ceiling covering;
• the inability to do without one, and sometimes two assistants, since it is very inconvenient to mount the insulation material directly above your head alone;
• reduction of the useful volume of living spaces by the thickness of the insulation cake.

In the event that you agree with all the above inconveniences and have thoroughly prepared for the upcoming operations, it will be possible to proceed with the thermal insulation of the house. First of all, you should remove the decorative layer from the ceiling, after which it will be possible to proceed with the insulation procedures themselves. Plates (mats) of the heat insulator are laid in this case between the floor joists.

All procedures for the thermal protection of this part of the dwelling are no different from the operations already considered earlier and also involve the choice of a heat-insulating material suitable for the given conditions.

Important! Make special cuts in wall and ceiling panels for the purpose of laying mineral wool or expanded polystyrene insulation boards in them is strictly prohibited.

This is explained by the fact that, according to the current building regulations, any change in the structure load-bearing structures can lead to a decrease in their strength characteristics, which is completely unacceptable.

In conclusion, we note that the insulation of the roof from the inside of the building is a rather complicated procedure, the implementation of which will require specially selected materials and thorough preparation. Using the recommendations given here, you special work you can protect your home from heat leakage through the roof structure.

Insulation of the gable roof of the cottage by spraying polyurethane foam. The difficulty was spraying without dismantling the existing crate.

When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, observing the technology.

Empirically and by calculations, it has long been established that heat losses occur through each element of the house structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of heat escapes through the attic floor and roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning was wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of the house, you can save all subsequent years on its heating.

It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many homeowners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, the thermal insulation of the roof at different times of the year is capable of performing three functions:

- in winter, it keeps the heat in the house;

- in the summer it does not allow the attic space to heat up, which means that it will be cool in the house;

- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.

Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.

You may be interested in information on how liquid insulation is produced

Types of insulation for roof construction

The choice of insulation must also be made with skill, providing technical and performance characteristics material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Increased moisture resistance.
• Low flammability.
• Ecological cleanliness.
• Material durability.

The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:

• Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
• Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
• Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene).
• Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
• Expanded clay of different fractions (floor insulation).

In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves were traditionally used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special treatment, as they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.

All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.

This table shows the main characteristics of the most popular heaters today:

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is most often used to insulate the roof structure, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic rooms of a wooden house.

One of the most convenient materials is mineral wool.

Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its type :

• Slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick, 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for attic insulation, so you should not deceive yourself with its low cost, since insulation will have to be done again in a couple of years.

Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, having been saturated with it, it settles and loses its heat-insulating qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation withstands a temperature of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.

The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you can notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and prickly. Therefore, for residential premises it is best not to use this type of mineral wool.

• Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and cullet. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to the airiness and increase the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.

Advanced modern glass wool is designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.

Glass wool is widely used for insulation of stone buildings, it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated attic option roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.

Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the fabric, can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into Airways. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a thick fabric suit, special goggles, a respirator and gloves.

• Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds. The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.

It is much easier to work with stone wool, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, and their length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located randomly and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.

Prices for basalt wool

basalt wool

In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and well tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment.

All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, as foil reflects and retains heat indoors.

The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber-binding substance, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.

You might be interested in knowing what is

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for home insulation, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other heaters, including sprayed polyurethane foam.

Slabs of conventional Styrofoam - Styrofoam (left), and extruded

Styrofoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.

moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, while simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.

Therefore, choosing this heater, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and to protect the house as much as possible from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and proper installation of chimney channels (pipes).

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and overlapping structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a sufficiently large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulation layer will be completely sealed. Solidifying and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), with moisture absorption not more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. And this means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

Sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in fitting the finished coating to the level of the truss system for further finishing or roofing work.

Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems, without retaining steam and not letting moisture into the room.

Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or sloped, as it has high adhesion with all building materials.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from small particles cellulose. Laying of this material can be carried out in a "dry" and "wet" way.

Environmentally friendly material - ecowool

• In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. In this way on the walls and roof structures setup will not work.
• For the "wet" installation method, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then distributed under pressure using a pipe to ceilings and walls.

"Wet" laying of ecowool

• Another option for warming with ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after fixing finishing material on them, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulating materials, and these include the following:

• This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
• Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
• If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
• The installation of insulation is carried out quickly enough.
• Ecowool has a long service life without losing the original thermal insulation qualities.
• Cellulose insulation material is necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore, it has a very low combustibility and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
• Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless hermetic coating of the desired thickness.
• The insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture does not linger in it.
• The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.

The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is very often used for warming the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system with expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but filling it between floor beams on pre-prepared surfaces will not be difficult.

This material is made from specially prepared clay, undergoing high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is made in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

The advantages of this material:

• Ecological purity. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
• The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
• For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
• Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is very important quality for a wooden structure. This insulation isolates the chimney pipes from wooden floors, filling it in a box built around them.
• Another important advantage of this material is that domestic rodents do not tolerate it. If the house is on a suburban area, then even mice can settle in it even in the attic, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!

You may be interested in information about what is

Auxiliary materials

Except thermal insulation materials, in the insulation "pie" a waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier film is used.

• Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect condensate heater, can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.

This membrane must be steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

If the insulation is carried out in an already assembled structure and it is not planned to change the roofing material, under which there should be a waterproofing membrane, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require wind protection, and it can be sprayed on on a reliable basis from boards or directly on a roof covering.

• When insulating the roof slopes, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. Vapor barrier is designed to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system from the penetration of moisture from the inside.

As you know, excessive moisture that has fallen on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as bad smell, which over time will move into living rooms.

If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film must be fixed under the wall decoration.

When the floor is insulated, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, as it should retain heat in the underlying rooms and prevent wet vapor from them from entering the heat-insulating layer.

The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the ceiling, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected inside the attic or to the side. living rooms and didn't go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.

If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the boards of the attic floor, as well as their joints with the beams, are well smeared with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and also allow the insulation layers to “breathe”.

When lime or clay dries well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses for a long time, they were insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, others were used for insulation. natural materials, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.

This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.

Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.

How to calculate the required thickness of insulation?

It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for to create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpayment for excess material.

Rasche T t of the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003" Thermal protection of buildings"and the Code of Rules SP 23 - 101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some allowable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:

δut= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut

We begin to understand the values ​​\u200b\u200bin the formula:

• δut- this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
• R- the required tabular value of thermal resistance (m² × ° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a properly calculated heating system, maintaining indoor comfortable temperature at +19°. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the importance R for walls, ceilings and coverings.

When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coatings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for floors”.

• δ nand λn— the values ​​of the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing "pie" would consist of a solid plywood batten over rafters with a tar paper on top. Below is a layer of insulation to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.

Important - only those outer layers that fit snugly against each other are considered. For example, flat slate You can take into account, but wavy - no longer. If the roof structure assumes a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.

Where to get values? Measure the thickness of each of the layers ( δ n) – will not be labor. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not specified in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:

Note that there are two values ​​given for materials λ n– for operating modes A or B . These regimes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.

Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which and choose the value λ n.

• λut - coefficient of thermal conductivity for the selected type of insulation, according to which the calculation of the thickness is carried out.

Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, it is possible to calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!

To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed. It provides for the calculation for three layers (not counting the insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.

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