How to crash into a pressurized water pipe with your own hands. How to crash into a plastic water pipe: methods and necessary permits Cutting into a water pipe by welding

Any home, public building, business or private apartment may be in dire need of an additional outlet from an existing internal or main water supply. To a large extent, this process is determined by the material kill and other elements, system pressure, operating conditions, and so on.

The sequence of work execution depends on the chosen method of solving the problem. dachas.

Why might a tie-in be required?

If we are talking about the main trunk line, then this may be a serious need to connect connection of the new building to the existing water supply.

If you need to connect to an internal water supply, it may be necessary to

to connect any device where needed cold water, outdoor faucet or household appliances.

This approach allows you to reduce the cost of organizing water supply, possibly improve water quality and get more pressure. In this way, you can make as many tie-ins as you like even into a sewer pipe with your own hands ...

To do this, a neat tie-in of your water supply is made into an existing one in the right place, after which a pipe is laid to the house at a sufficient depth so that the ground does not freeze - from 1.2 meters.

If the pressure in the main pipeline is sufficient, then the installation of the pump is not necessary. It remains to think about joining the sewer line.

If there is a central sewer - no problem. Otherwise, you will have to solve the problem yourself.

It is also desirable to provide for the possibility of completely turning off the water, as well as draining it if the house is not used in winter.

If the system is outdated, with insufficient working pressure to provide the existing number of houses, which means that the stream of water from the tap will be very weak. Thus, you will have to take care of increasing the pressure with your own hands by installing a pump.

The unit is installed directly on the pipe, and it works automatically when using a crane.

Do not forget about the possibility poor quality water. For this case, additional filtration will be required, for which a water treatment system is installed.

Permission and approval

Tapping into the water supply must be carried out sequentially.

The first step is to obtain permission to tap into the water supply, since illegal tapping into the pipe carries financial and administrative responsibility. First you need to get a site plan, from which you can understand how communications pass underground.

The document can be obtained from the Federal Center for Registration of Land Plots.

This plan will be needed to apply to the district office of the water utility with an application. Additionally, you will need to present title documents for the site and the house.

The central department is obliged to issue specifications connections that include:

  • pipeline diameter;
  • connection point;
  • other data that may vary depending on the purpose of the insert.

That's not all. These technical conditions and documents for the site and the house are submitted to the SES department. Additionally, an application is drawn up for obtaining an opinion on connecting to the water supply.

Of course, their project costs more than other organizations, but it will definitely pass the test. Therefore, the savings may not be appropriate.

Then the design and estimate documentation is registered with the SES. It remains to obtain permission from utility organizations to carry out land work where your water supply will be connected to the existing network.

Next, you need to find a team that will carry out installation work. You need to sign an agreement with this organization. And here it should be noted that an independent tie-in into a running water pipe under pressure and the installation of metering devices is strictly prohibited.

Even with all the permits and approvals, tie-in of your water supply to the existing network should be carried out exclusively by specialists.

The only way to reduce costs is to carry out those tasks yourself. types of work that do not require a license:

  • trench digging and backfilling;
  • sand filling;
  • other similar work not directly related to the tie-in (purchase and delivery of pipes, reconnect to the sewer network, for example y).

Unauthorized tapping into a finished plastic water pipe is fraught with considerable fines and subsequent problems..

After completing all the work, the water utility specialists must draw up an act of putting the devices into operation. It remains to conclude an agreement with the organization for the supply of water and payment.

Insert options

As mentioned above, there are two main options:

  • tie-in from the existing mains water supply;
  • tie-in to an existing water supply located inside the building.

We will analyze each option, considering the installation methods.

If there is no central sewerage on the site and it is not possible to lay a sewer line, tapping into an existing cast-iron pipeline may be prohibited. Therefore, it is important that there is a septic tank that meets the standards, which can allow you to get a permit.

To perform the docking, a concrete water well is equipped. If there is a prohibition on such an action, the procedure can be carried out in the nearest working well.

As a rule, the step of their location is 100 meters. By the way, this option can be cheaper than independent construction well.

Insertion into an existing waterway The wiring can be done in one of the following ways:

  • Applicable saddle for tie-in to the water supply. This part is actually a clamp for tie-in to the water supply. The connection takes place without the need to turn off the water supply in the water supply. The saddle is used for tie-in in an emergency way.
  • If the line is not under pressure, the outlet pipe is installed by welding.
  • The use of connecting fittings, which is attached to the main pipe.

Mounting by welding with clamp

Welding is the most time-consuming process for connecting an external steel water pipe. During work, the water supply must be turned off. An autogen is used to make a hole to which a threaded pipe or saddle clamp is welded.

Of course, now more and more often you can find pipes made of polyethylene, so the use of welding is not required. According to the diameter of the pipe, a metal clamp is made for tie-in (saddle clamp) with a branch pipe.

A hole is made on the pipe where the saddle clamp is fixed. The rubber gasket is placed under the clamp and the tie-in is sealed.

Installation without disconnecting the line

This is an operational option, although and more demanding on the details of the process.

The steps are:

  1. On z when drilling the pipe, the insulation must be removed, clean the coating. The diameter of the outlet pipe must exceed the size of the current one.
  2. A saddle clamp with a flange and a clamp is fixed on the pipeline. The valve is attached to the flange. A drilling device is mounted to it.
  3. If there is a welded pipe, you can weld a branch pipe to it, to which you can attach a valve, a device for a cutter. Next, the quality control of the seam is performed.
  4. Then the cutter is inserted through the valve and the flange gland. It is removed when the hole is drilled.
  5. The valve is closed, the drilling equipment is dismantled. After that, the anti-corrosion coating and insulation are restored.

Works on the internal pipeline

Now let's figure out how to make a tie-in to the water supply, for this you do not need to install a saddle clamp if it is inside the building. The traditional way– installation of a branch using a welded tee.

At the same time, the work may require a lot of time and effort. It should be ensured that the tee will successfully crash into the pipeline, and this is very difficult.

Mounting with curved flange

In this case, cut the pipeline, install a saddle clamp not required. A piece of pipe with a diameter identical to the size under pipeline. Fulfilling the segment is cut along so that the half lies on the pipe, forming its second wall.

Next, a hole is drilled tie under the nozzle, the workpiece is superimposed. Sealant is applied. The curved flange must be pulled off, for this a clamp is taken and the tie-in is pulled together.

It should be ensured that the sealant protrudes from under the edges of the lining. Further, the rest of the pipeline is connected to the branch pipe.

The nuances of work (video)

Mounting with a saddle

The saddle allows you to cut into a plastic pipe without reducing the pressure on it. This device is a saddle clamp, consisting of two parts. Thanks to the bolts, the saddle compresses the pipe well on both sides.

Due to the thread or flange, a passage valve is attached to it.

A special drilling device creates a hole. The device is temporarily connected to the through-faucet. Then the crane is closed, the drilling equipment is removed. The installation of the outlet pipe to the faucet is in progress.

Now a saddle with a built-in valve and a cutter is often used. For this, a coupling is used in order to crash into the water supply by welding. This option is used for pipelines with pressures up to 16 bar.

Does not require installation stop the water supply. The saddle clamp turns out to be corrosion-resistant, capable of serving for fifty years.

The technologies used depend on the situation. For example, a tie-in to a cast-iron water supply occurs mechanically.

Thanks to this, the saddle clamp provides a strong connection, even if it is very difficult to crash into a cast-iron water pipe, as well as into a sewer.

Key nuances of tie-in work:

  1. First, the route is determined.
  2. trench mo can be dug with an excavator or by hand,given the required depth - more than the depth of soil freezing.
  3. How the connection can be made has been discussed above.
  4. It is necessary to make a slope of 2%.
  5. Valves are placed before and after the meter, which can be installed either in the well or indoors.
  6. It is necessary to provide a check valve, test and adjust. The water flow is regulated by a valve.

To avoid the need for re-piping, after blowing initially entrust the work to professionals. Previously, you can call several organizations to find out how much a tie-in into a cast-iron or other water supply system costs, what the price is and how many options there are.

How much the cost of tie-in to the water supply will cost depends on the working conditions, network features, materials used and other nuances. The standard price of a tie-in to the water supply is 1000 rubles and more (for 1 point).

City highway? To do this, you do not need to shut off the water, but you need to obtain permission from the water utility.

The work is done without the use of welding. But it is not excluded as another way of tie-in.

At the point of connection to the highway, it is required to build a mounting well. If you are given permission without its device, then you will have to make a tie-in in the nearest operated well. Before that, you need to prepare a trench and a pipe for laying water supply to the house.

How to crash into water pipe no welding? For this, a saddle clamp, or saddle, is used. Such a connection can withstand pressure up to 16 atm.

What is a saddle

A clamp for tapping into a water supply under pressure resembles a coupling consisting of two halves, on one of which there is a branch pipe or a flange for tapping.

The tightness of the connection is carried out due to the gasket. It can be made in the form of a ring bordering the mortise hole. A similar product is usually made for a plastic pipeline.

The second type of gasket is a sealing layer that covers the entire inner surface of the clamp for tapping into the water supply. This model is designed for metal, cast iron and asbestos-cement highways, but is also found in plastic structures (). The material used is ethylene-propylene rubber.

Universal saddles are also produced, the basis of which is a metal strip resembling an automobile clamp.

The cost of saddle clamps from 70 rubles.

There are products with additional elements that facilitate insertion into an existing water supply system:

  • with built-in cutter and side outlet to the shut-off valve;
  • with a sealed tube end.

Clamps with a heating coil are also available for plastic. They are sold at a price of 1 thousand rubles and require a welding machine for operation, which is even more expensive: from 70 thousand rubles. The connection is made by electrodiffusion welding.

There are saddles made in the form of three-piece couplings for tapping into a large diameter water supply system.

saddle mount

The halves of the clamp are pulled together by two, four or six bolts paired with nuts. Twisting is done evenly, without distortion.

The selected section of the pipeline is cleaned of dirt to ensure a tight fit of the gasket. Rust is removed on the iron pipe (). Then a saddle is attached for tie-in to the water supply.

Sometimes the bolts from the kit can be so long that it is difficult to join the two halves of the clamp. This is checked before inserting and, if necessary, longer bolts are purchased from the store. It is better to buy them paired with nuts, because foreign standards may not match our sizes. This happens with Turkish goods.

If there is any doubt about the tightness of the clamp or as a Turkish gasket, then a sealing paste is used, which is applied in a thin layer to the seal.

Insertion process

Depending on the manufacturing option of the saddle and additional elements, there may be various ways tie-ins.

Simple Method

How to crash into a plastic water pipe? A technology will now be described that is used for both plastic and metal or other pipeline materials. It can be used by every owner of a private house. It does not require the purchase of expensive products.

A ball shut-off valve is attached to the pipe of the clamp, through which a drill is inserted, fixed in a drill. The faucet must be open. Otherwise, he is in danger of injury.

A hole is made in the pipe. Previously, in the place of drilling, punching is performed.

Carefully work when inserting into a cast-iron water pipe. She is fragile. Therefore, they drill it at low speeds, without pressing hard on the drill.

To protect against water pressure, a cropped plastic bottle along with a cork where the drill is screwed.

The work is done together. The assistant stands near the socket. When the water gushes, he unplugs the drill's plug from the electricity. The driller at this moment pulls the drill out of the saddle and closes the tap.

Then they install the home water line (). It can dock with the crane in different ways.

Basic connection methods:

  1. Threaded.
  2. With compression fittings.
  3. Adhesive.
  4. By soldering.

It depends on the pipe material.

Use of built-in cutter and protective valve

For tapping into a water supply system under pressure, saddles are sold, in the nozzle of which there is a built-in cutter with a turnkey hexagonal groove. To rotate the cutter, a nozzle is inserted into the groove, fixed in a wrench or drill.

At the end of the branch pipe, a sealing device is made through which the nozzle is inserted.

The trick is that the nozzle is closed by a spring-loaded valve. But as soon as you press on it with a nozzle, it opens, giving passage to the cutter.

In addition, a rubber ring is located around the circumference of the nozzle, covering the nozzle. Often this design is used when inserting into a polyethylene pipe of a water supply system.

When drilling is completed (a slight knockout of water from under the nozzle appears), the cutter is unscrewed until it touches the valve. A cap is placed on top. It is more anti-vandal than sealing.

On the side of the branch pipe there is a branch with a shut-off ball valve. Access to water opens after unscrewing the cutter. But it must be closed and opens only after the installation of the home pipeline.

More ways

Workers of the water utility use for tapping into metal pipe without welding massive sealing device. It looks like a pipe with gaskets, which is mounted on the saddle pipe.

An attachment point is mounted on a clamp or on a line pipe and the device is attracted to it with three or four long bolts.

This design is completely sealed and does not let a drop of water through. Therefore, a manometer is provided here. When the hole is made, it will show a pressure surge across the instrument.

You can also connect to a steel pipeline by welding a branch pipe to it. Then you don't need a saddle. But here the tie-in of the pipe into the pipe, depending on the diameter, matters. This method is logical to use with a large cross section of the main pipeline.

After welding, further installation is carried out similarly to the methods described above. The main steps are installing a ball valve on a branch pipe, drilling a hole, connecting a home water supply. In this case, you need to think about the option of protecting the power tool from a jet of water.

You may be interested in the information in the following articles:

Video about tapping into a pressurized water pipe.


A private house or cottage throughout the entire period of operation is rebuilt, improved, equipped. Sometimes these manipulations are forced, due to the wear of any structure or system, and sometimes there is a desire to upgrade them to increase comfort in the house. But, no matter what the reasons underlie the process, sometimes such an operation as tapping into a pipe without welding becomes relevant. For example, without this procedure it is impossible to organize an additional sewer drain during installation washing machine or vice versa, the creation of an additional water intake point for connecting a household appliance to the water supply system.

Outlining the range of tasks

If you need a tie-in into a water pipe, for example, then the most logical at first glance would be a very simple way:

  • The pipe is cut.
  • A tee is welded or inserted.
  • Connected to a tee.

If you have to deal with a plumbing or heating pipeline that is still "Soviet-style", that is, metal, then such a manipulation of the "head to head" type is very effective way problem solving. But such pipes in practice are becoming less and less common, they are ruthlessly and everywhere replaced by systems made of plastic and its derivatives. Therefore, today the question of how to crash into a plastic pipe will be more relevant.

Naturally, this work is not as simple as it seems at first glance, although, on the other hand, a non-professional can also cope with it if armed with our advice, and also shows diligence and will. And for starters, you need to understand the amount of work that you will have to face.

Possible problems when tapping:

  • The pipe is sawn and in the right place a piece is cut out very precisely in size for the tee. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the pipe can be very close to the surface of the wall, and it can also be walled up halfway into the wall.
  • You may need to dock on the principle of "father-mother". The end of each pipe is equipped with an extension - a socket, in which there is a rubber seal. It is in this socket that you will have to insert another pipe.
  • Also, most likely, you will have to replace one whole pipe with two smaller ones. And between them it will be necessary to install a pipe section with a branch pipe through which the connection will be made.

Tapping into the water supply with a pipe

In fact, the answer to the question of how to crash into a water pipe can be very simple. One way of this process does not require cutting the pipeline element at all. To begin with, it is purchased, in any specialized store, a piece of pipe with a pipe, of course, of the same diameter as the water pipe.

Tapping without cutting - a few simple steps

A branch pipe must be cut out of the purchased pipe section, but in such a way that an element of the “half-pipe” type is obtained at its end. It is he who should provide a reliable overlap of the place of the future tie-in. Simply put, a second wall of the pipe should form, as it were. A hole is drilled in a predetermined place, the diameter of which must correspond to the diameter of the nozzle.

Any non-drying sealant, for example, "Body 940", is applied to the entire inner surface of the flange in an even layer. You should look for it in car dealerships, in car cosmetics departments. The area around the hole is lubricated with the same composition, but you do not need to reach the hole itself by about 1 cm.

Further, when mounting such a curved flange on a pipe, I will have to use such a fastener as a pipe clamp. Rather, you need two of them to pull the edges on both sides. Tighten the clamps very carefully, but so that the sealant begins to squeeze out from under the flange. Residual grease is removed.

Attention! If a tie-in is made into a polyethylene pipe of a water supply (sewerage) where a slight pressure is fixed, then the use of clamps is an optional condition. You can flange, using a wide electrical tape, just "bandage".

There are times when a more rational solution would be to use a ready-made tee with a large cross-sectional size. At the same time, it is necessary to cut off that section of the pipe where there is no branch pipe. In this case, the general procedure will include longitudinal cutting of the pipe, drilling a hole in the remaining segment, and then mounting a branch pipe to it.

Ready-made special equipment for tie-in - nurses and adapters

The reason for tapping into the general house sewerage system can be the most ordinary event - installing an additional sink, installing an additional tap, connecting a dishwasher or washing machine, etc. Anyone can cope with such tasks at any time and competently if they use the special structural elements that are available now on the market - adapters, flanges, etc. Thanks to these simple and affordable adapters, the optimal solution can be found in each specific case. Moreover, the tie-in into the PVC pipe will be performed without special material and time costs. There are several ways to tie into the sewer system using special elements:

  • Introduction of adapters. If you need to crash into a pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm, then an adapter with a diameter of 50 mm is installed.
  • Using sidebars. When it is necessary to work with pipes with a diameter of 32-40 mm, elements of 12-22 mm in size are used, equipped with a plastic fitting.

Tapping without pressure

The tie-in into the HDPE pipe using the purchased ready-made adapter will be performed with high quality if only a few consecutive steps are taken:

  • The water supply to the sewerage is blocked.
  • A hole is drilled with a crown of a suitable size, put on a drill.
  • An adapter is put on the pipe and tightened with bolts.
  • If the tie-in is without bolts, then the pipe surface is first degreased, a special tool is applied and the nut is tightened.

Tapping under pressure

There are situations when it is necessary to tap into a pressurized system in operation. Here, special pipeline fittings are used - a saddle for tie-in.

Important! A saddle for a pipe is a part of the pipeline, which consists of 2 parts that compress the pipe from 2 sides. In everyday life, a saddle is often called a “collar for a tie-in”.

With the help of this part, a quick and reliable tapping of a secondary branch from the main pipeline of drinking or industrial water supply systems is performed, sewer systems, drainage and other systems, the pipelines of which are made of polyethylene pipes.

Saddle will help to crash into the pipeline under pressure

In this case, the outlet pipe can be rotated 360 degrees relative to the pressure pipe. The saddle itself is made from the same HDPE material as the pipe. Such a clamp is welded to the pressure pipeline using electrofusion welding.

In this way, a tie-in is performed into existing pipelines in which a pressure of up to 10 bar is created - gas, and up to 16 bar - water. At the same time, the technology does not imply the presence of leaks or the formation of chips. The resulting connection is unattended and permanent. It is not subject to corrosive influences and will serve at least 50 years.

When performing a tie-in into a pipe of any complexity, it is important to remember that a well-done job will avoid costly repairs to the entire system, and any branch will be installed without much hassle.

It may well happen that it is urgently necessary to make an insert into the existing water supply, for example, in order to connect an additional appliance to the water supply (washing or dishwasher), or if a new one was built private house, you need to bring water to it, or the old supply is clogged and needs to be replaced. But it is not always possible to turn off the water. There is only one way out - do-it-yourself tie-in into the water supply under pressure.

The essence of the process

In order for intervention in the water supply, which is filled with pressurized water, to bring minimal damage, it is necessary to figure out what and how to do. Let's start with the pipe material. Modern water pipes are mounted from metal, plastic and metal-plastic pipes. Cast iron pipes are less common.

In order to cut into such a pipeline, it is necessary to make a hole in it. It goes without saying that a jet of water will immediately “escape” from it. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for how to quickly and reliably close this hole, but so that it will be possible to subsequently attach a continuation of the branch to it. In other words, after making a hole, stop valves are cut in with the possibility of attaching an additional pipe to it. Basically, tie-in to the water supply under pressure is carried out using special clamps. The design of these devices depends on the material of the pipe.

Insert technology

Consider from a practical point of view how to make a hole in a pipe with water. There are two general rules when tapping into a pipeline:

  1. The pipe to be cut must be smaller in diameter than the pipe in which the hole is made.
  2. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the internal diameter of the pipe being inserted, which, in turn, must be of a smaller diameter than the pipe of the main line.

Note! When performing tie-in work, all safety precautions must be observed.

If you need to cut into metal plumbing, you will have to use a saddle clamp for tapping with drilling. It is called a saddle clamp because its lower part is a semicircle that looks like a saddle. There are several types of such clamps. Before installing this device on a pipe, it must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rust (if any). The clamp, in addition to the “saddle”, has a shut-off valve with a hole for drilling and a drill in the upper part. Both parts on the pipe are bolted to each other. The clamp fits snugly to the surface of the pipe with the help of sealing rubber bands. After fixing it with a drill, a hole is made until water appears. Then the drill is unscrewed and the plug is closed with a special screw so that water does not flow out of the pipe. In the future, such a clamp can be used as a shut-off valve. You can also use the clamp with the valve already screwed into it.

After the hole is ready, the drill is pulled out and the valve is closed. Now you can perform other plumbing work. You can also attach a special machine to a simple metal clamp, the main elements of which are a ratchet handle, a locking bolt, a shaft with a drill at the end, and a flushing tap. All this is enclosed in a metal case and is attached to the clamp with the help of sealing rubber bands. The guide sleeve allows drilling in a given direction. It is used to drill metal and cast iron pipes.

For drilling a cast-iron pipeline under pressure, bimetallic crowns and clamps of a special design are used. The nuance of working with cast iron is that:

  • work with light pressure. Cast iron is a brittle metal, it does not “work” well in compression and tension;
  • pre-clean the pipe surface from a special layer applied to the surface to prevent corrosion;
  • overheating of the crown should not be allowed;
  • work at low speeds.

If you want to cut into a plastic pipeline, then it is better to use an electric saddle clamp. It is made of special plastic, equipped with a heating coil and a drilling mechanism. There is a bar code on the seat body that allows you to accurately enter the necessary parameters: welding and cooling times, etc. The clamp is bolted to the pre-cleaned pipe. With the help of a special welding machine, the spiral is heated and the branch is welded (terminals for welding are provided on the clamp). Further, an hour after cooling, a hole is made with a special cutter and a shut-off valve is screwed on.

Metal-plastic is mainly used for distributing water around the house or apartment. Therefore, the diameter of the pipes is small. If there is no inlet valve and there is no way to shut off the water with the help of special services (housing office, water utility), then you will have to crash under pressure to supply water to an additional point. The use of clamps in this case is not advisable due to the small diameter of the pipe. How to make such a cut? Very simple. It is necessary to prepare a water tank, a floor cloth, a tool, a valve and special fasteners. The pipe is cut. The end from which water flows is lowered into a container of water. A nut, clamp is put on it. Then a valve is inserted into it in the open position, which is clamped with a nut. Then, by closing the tap, you can continue the installation.

Peculiarities

All the proposed methods of tapping into a pressure water supply require a certain qualification of experience and the availability of special tools. After all, it is necessary to act quickly in order to prevent a large leakage of water. If the tie-in occurs in the main pipeline, which is underground, then the water pressure is quite large and it is not very pleasant to take such a “shower” even in summer. Moreover, the work is carried out with a hand tool; for safety reasons, power tools are not used. In addition, if you independently perform a tie-in into the main pipeline, you will have to obtain permission from the water supply organization - the owner of the pipeline. And this is associated with a certain paperwork, a waste of time and nerves.

When it is necessary to cut into the supply pipeline in the middle apartment building, then slowness will lead to flooding of the lower floors.

Of course, no one can forbid a man to do such work himself, but for this you need to have a set of certain tools. It doesn’t make much sense to buy them for one-time work: the tools are expensive, and after the tie-in they will just lie in the pantry or garage until the next case. Therefore, judge for yourself - how possible is an independent tie-in into the water supply under pressure. The decision, of course, is up to the person, but it is most reasonable to invite a specialist with experience in performing such work to perform such a tie-in.

Video

This video shows a tie-in into a polyethylene pipeline with a Poly16 Plus saddle with a cutter.

If you live in a house outside the city, then you need to equip the water supply to your home, and there are two solutions to solve this issue - get your own well or well, or connect to a centralized line with water under high pressure. The first option is expensive, time-consuming and labor-intensive. The second solution will provide your house with water for one day, but you will be dependent on the water supply schedule (this happens in remote peripheral villages).

The positive moment that the tie-in to the water supply gives is that you will get stable pressure in the pipes, which will ensure the same stable operation of household appliances that require water supply - a washing machine, dishwasher, plumbing equipment - a bathtub, jacuzzi, shower or even a pool.

How to connect to a common water main

Before crashing into a water pipe under high fluid pressure, familiarize yourself with three technology options that vary depending on the material of which the pipes are made (they can be polymer (PP), cast iron, galvanized steel).

For a polymer central route, a tie-in into a pressure water pipe looks like this:

  1. A trench no less than one and a half meters in size is excavated, the area where the work will be carried out is exposed, and a trench is being dug from it to the house;
  2. At the end of the earthmoving work, a saddle is prepared for tapping into the water supply system - this is a collapsible crimp collar that looks like a tee. The straight outlets of the saddle are divided in half, and a valve is installed on the vertical outlet to shut off the pressure. A pipe is drilled through the tap with a special nozzle for tie-in. The most reliable saddle scheme is collapsible welded. It is easy to divide such a collar into two halves, assemble it over the tie-in section, and weld it to the main route. Thus, the clamp for tapping into the water supply is welded into the body, providing a reliable and absolutely hermetic water supply to the dwelling;
  3. The pipe is drilled with a conventional drill and an electric drill. Instead of a drill, you can use a crown, but the result is important, not the tool;
  4. A through hole is drilled until a jet of water comes out of it, after which the drill is removed and the valve is closed. For safety reasons, at the end of the drilling process, the electric tool is replaced with hand drill or a bell. If you drill a hole not with a drill, but with a crown, then it will automatically ensure the tightness of the drilling site. In addition to these options, there is a solution using a special cutter, which is rotated with an adjustable wrench or an external brace;
  5. The last stage of the tie-in to the central water supply is the establishment of your own water supply, laid in a trench in advance, and connecting it to the central route with an American compression coupling.

For complete control of the insertion point, it is advisable to equip a revision above it - a well with a hatch. The well is equipped as standard: a gravel-sand cushion is made at the bottom, reinforced concrete rings are lowered into the trench, or the walls are laid out with bricks. Thus, even in winter it will be possible to shut off the water supply if it is necessary to repair it in the house.

For a central water supply pipe made of cast iron, a saddle tie-in looks like this:

  1. To tap into a cast-iron pipe, it must first be thoroughly cleaned of corrosion. At the very place of drilling, the top layer of cast iron is removed by a grinder by 1-1.5 mm;
  2. The saddle is built into the pipeline in the same way as in the first paragraph, but to completely seal the joint between the pipe and the crimp, a rubber seal is laid;
  3. At a further stage, a shut-off valve is attached to the clamp nozzle - a valve through which the cutting tool is inserted.
  4. Next, the body of the cast iron pipe is drilled, and do not forget about the need to cool the cut site, as well as change the crowns in a timely manner.
  5. A hole is drilled for tapping into the main water supply with a hard-alloy victorious or diamond crown;
  6. The last step is the same: the crown is removed, the valve is closed, the insertion point is scalded with special electrodes.

A steel pipe is slightly more ductile than a cast-iron pipe, so the tie-in of pipes is carried out according to a technique similar to the solution with a polymer line, but the saddle is not used, and before making a tie-in into a galvanized steel water pipeline, the following steps are implemented:

  1. The pipe is exposed and cleaned;
  2. A branch pipe of the same material as the main pipe is immediately welded onto the pipe;
  3. A shut-off valve is welded or screwed onto the pipe;
  4. The body of the main pipe is drilled through the valve - first with an electric drill, the last millimeters - with a hand tool;
  5. Connect your water supply to the valve and the pressurized tie-in is ready.

Insertion into the internal water supply in the yard

From the route that we cut into the central water supply, one or more branches can be made - for irrigation, for technical needs, for arranging a column in the yard. It is only necessary to observe the legality of the tie-in, and do it only after the counter.

Technologically, there are several differences between connecting to the central pipeline and connecting to the internal route, since for the internal line the pressure can be blocked by central shut-off valves. Therefore, the connection is carried out using a conventional plumbing tee, and the working operations will be as follows:

  1. The main valve is turned on in the revision well, and the water from the internal water supply is drained through the last tap;
  2. In the selected place, the pipe is cut with a grinder or a pipe cutter (depending on the pipe material), and a branch is made from this segment along the length of the tee;
  3. Then you need to install the tee itself. For a polymer pipeline, this step looks the same as a standard electrical coupling cuts in - by soldering with a special welding unit. In addition to this option, press couplings or collets can be used. In an iron pipe, the tee is installed on the thread using a conventional drive. Welding machine it is not recommended to use it, since ring welding is a complex process, and for this you need to have experience;
  4. The last step - you cut a tap into the vertical branch of the tee, with which you can block the new water supply line. After that, you can use the water supply system by opening the valve on the central line.

A new water pipeline can be laid with the main and yard water supply turned on again, since the water will be blocked by a new shut-off valve on the internal tee.

Conclusion

It is not difficult to embed a pipe into a water main from any material, and you can do it yourself without paying for the work of specialists. Every self-respecting owner will find a tool, as well as a little bit of experience with plumbing fixtures. Moreover, it is possible to avoid welded, the most difficult work, if you work on cast iron or a polymer surface.

The only job not related to physical labor- registration of documents for the tie-in, which should be issued by regional utilities and organizations.