Ventilation in a private bath. How to make ventilation in the bath? General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

The positive impact of regular bath procedures on the body is invaluable. At the same time, a bath is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits will be easily blocked by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no bath in the bath. effective ventilation.

Importance of the system

Even in the old days, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in the bathhouse can quickly cause dampness, mold, fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they contributed to the improvement of air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Today, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, because after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constant high humidity, and if the bath is built according to frame technology, then its service life will be even less. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable at the moment the stove is kindled. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development dangerous diseases bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in the bath must certainly comply with the basic requirements and principles of safety:

  • Proper distribution of air masses. As is known from the school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush up, and cold ones, on the contrary, fall. Therefore, the flows should be directed so that the legs do not freeze, and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
  • Maintaining a predetermined level of heating in the steam room. Under no circumstances should ventilation interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, air cooling is unacceptable.
  • The use of waterproof materials. For the arrangement of steam rooms and the organization of ventilation, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to moisture and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating effective system air exchange is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot moist air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is necessary to prevent the temperature in the hot steam room from dropping, therefore modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to be blown in from streets. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas ovens, since such schemes require a large volume of oxygen to maintain the combustion process.

How it works?

Good ventilation in steam room consists of airing and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roof and the materials for its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally mounted, which allows ventilation to be achieved between the layer of thermal insulation material and other layers roofing cake. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensate in the bath.

But for the best drying of the floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is arranged. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, a subfloor is laid and concrete is poured at an angle, then the boards are laid in such a way that small gaps remain between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all bath rooms need airing: a steam room, a sink, a rest room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, it is necessary to select in advance such a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bath and the conditions of its operation.

Experienced builders do not recommend complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods that may be suitable for each individual case. Here, the statement that the simpler the better is 100% true, and at its cost this option will be much cheaper.

The principle of operation of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the supply of fresh street air, and the second allows overheated and humid air to come out. How these windows are located in relation to each other depends largely on which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the furnace will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths two outlets are cut instead of a single outlet, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

Of fundamental importance are the dimensions of the windows, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the clearance. To do this, special valves are fixed on them, allowing you to cover any open slots.

It is very important to make the correct calculations of the window, taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, then the steam room simply cannot warm up to the required temperature and you will have to spend more electricity. And if the windows are too small, then the intensity of the movement of flows will be reduced and a complete supersaturation of the air with water vapor may occur.

The size and location of the ventilation windows primarily affects the ingress and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from the overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room up to 50 years and even more. The variant of the ventilation system in each case is selected individually and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All the options for arranging ventilation developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and also combined.

natural ventilation assumes that the change of air is carried out due to the unimpeded flow of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of the steam rooms and the removal of the exhaust through special openings.

Forced the system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed on the hood and much less often on the inflow. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

combined option, as the name implies, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, “bastu” is the most common. It involves the formation of a small opening with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind or below the furnace.

As additional elements, vents are equipped above the stove, which are controlled by a valve and a valve - it is through them that air enters from the outside through the vents from the underground. Usually the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, however, as soon as there is a need to reduce the level of humidity in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is far from suitable in every case, therefore, in some situations, installation becomes the preferred ventilation option. exhaust system- for this, a fan is attached to the bottom of the box. If you install it in the supply hole behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. From the outside of the building, such holes are interconnected by a special ventilation duct. Less often, an exhaust hood is installed in the baths, in which one single channel works for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are equipped at the same height from the floor level: one is placed behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unfortunate way involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming in from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, stumbles upon the feet of the steamers. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such an arrangement is also quite common when it is not technically possible to make holes from different sides of the room.

materials

The choice of the bath ventilation system is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bath is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bath has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be taken especially carefully in order to prevent waterlogging and decay of the wall.

The ventilation system in the baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it is in without fail should include a fan that will help to effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bath can be connected to the elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are equipped directly in the walls, and later they are brought out to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional air vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of the buildings according to the frame technique is such that the walls in them are covered with a large number of thermal insulation layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove the exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with shutters.

In baths built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to the individual characteristics of the material, galvanized air ducts are equipped. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some masters create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, after giving them the necessary configuration and reliably sealing the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a classic Russian log bath. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all the rooms of the bath, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem often arises of creating optimal proportions between the air entering from outside and leaving the street. To prevent the occurrence of drafts and not to “heat the street”, experts recommend additionally insulating the bath well and equipping it inside thermal insulation material small holes with special valves that serve to enter and remove flows.

In buildings made of wood, the burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately imagine how many bathers will take bath procedures. If the bath is being built for a small family, then you can simply arrange a small supply hole near the stove and an exhaust hole under the ceiling, and if the building is focused on a large company, then forced options should be preferred.

How to make your own?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly equip the ventilation system. You can spend it in the bath both on your own and with the involvement of specialists. This will require a project of work, materials and tools, as well as a little time and effort.

What will be needed?

For the installation of ventilation ducts in the bath, preparation is needed. In the work you will need components:

  • several ventilation valves;
  • valve;
  • metal grate;
  • mosquito net;
  • ventilation box;
  • corrugated air duct;
  • hygrometer;
  • fan;

  • thermometer;
  • metallized adhesive tape;
  • collar;
  • mounting foam;
  • sealant;
  • fasteners;
  • decorative overlays for facing inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in a variety of colors and textures, so purchase best option won't pose any problem. Vent valves are installed on the exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Gate valves are used to quickly open or close openings. They are made from the most various materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and fixation strength, they are in no way inferior to store options.

A grid with a grid, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier in the way of insects and rodents, whose presence is highly undesirable either at home or in the bath. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached from the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some make the box on their own, using corrugated pipes for this. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for double rooms, since most types of plastic begin to deform under the influence of high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used for both supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it will work only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially made for Finnish saunas and baths. Thermo and hygrometers are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its performance, open the supply valve or start the exhaust.

Planning for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances of installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bath, it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. Adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after work on decorative trim complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, and if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust hole with a diameter lower than that of the supply one is strictly not allowed, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

By all means, dampers and valves must be provided in the system, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow you to close the holes with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable shutters are also important because the air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the season. In winter, when negative temperatures prevail outside the window, cold air masses penetrate the bathhouse more intensively, which is why the windows are partially opened in the autumn-winter period, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conditionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are made with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too much ventilated, or vice versa.

Even at the design stage of the bath, it should be remembered that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required areas of heating. Exhaust openings should be located slightly below ceiling level. This is because warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed to the outside, and if the holes are low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the general microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, because with constant contact with water wooden surfaces after 3-5 years they lose their performance characteristics, That's why important requirements for a ventilated floor:

  • to form the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
  • the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter in size between the boards;
  • the finishing floor must be laid without fail above the level of the blower, which contributes to the fact that the stove starts to work as an additional hood;
  • after taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to equip ventilation here, since there is no direct contact with water in such a room. As a rule, a combined or natural ventilation method is formed here, when cool air enters through the supply duct and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the action of a fan.

In addition, it is allowed to install ventilators here, which may require connecting to an electrical network and access to the street. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air is exchanged here using an electric motor.

We organize the hood in an already built bath

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bath was heated - in black or white, it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct soaring, so open windows and doors. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip the hood in an already built building.

To do this, you should punch holes right in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is punched in the area of ​​​​the furnace blowing, and the second - near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bath is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then it will be much more problematic to form holes and equip the hood, since in the process of such work it is possible to violate the integrity of the walls at all in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bath as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not independently do ventilation in already operated baths. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted again that basic principles creating an effective ventilation system largely depends on the dimensions of the bath and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be observed regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for inflow, the second - for the removal of air masses. If you plan in advance the hood in the bath under construction, you can avoid serious problems with the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam room.

It is absolutely unacceptable that the installed ventilation creates the following problems:

Without good ventilation in the steam room, you won’t get real pleasure from the bath, and for people who cannot boast of good health, going to such a bath is completely dangerous. In this article, we tell you how to make ventilation in the bathhouse and analyze the “classics without ventilation ducts”: how our ancestors ventilated the steam room and how it might look in a modern solution.

  • Volley ventilation in the Russian bath
  • Do I need additional ventilation holes in the Russian bath
  • The device for proper ventilation in the bath with their own hands on the experience of the participants of our portal

Volley ventilation: proper ventilation in the steam room

In a classic Russian bath, two ventilation schemes were commonly used:

  • volley ventilation, providing a sufficient amount of air during soaring;
  • ventilation to dry the steam room after use.

Volley ventilation is carried out through open door and window. We emphasize: we are talking about a wet steam bath, not a sauna.

Building for myself FORUMHOUSE Member

I had to quarrel with the customer and insist that an opening for a window be cut in the 500 mm thick wall.

To obtain air to breathe in the steam room, a window next to the shelf and a door to the dressing room are enough. The window and the door must be opened between visits while we are resting. Then we return to the steam room, close the window and the door and steam again.

To dry the steam room, a small air is made in it (there is different variants: some make it in the far corner under the ceiling, others, on the contrary, under the shelf). After using the bath, open:

  • this little breeze
  • a window in a washing or dressing room.

This creates a stream of air that ventilates the room and removes moisture from it.

In the photo: the bathhouse of our user with the nickname Vasisdas.

For a FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Nomadic, the ventilation in the bathhouse is done as follows: air inflow is under the furnace firebox, the exit is diagonally under the ceiling. Usually everyone steams with a closed hood, but sometimes it is opened, “if the steamer is not extreme”, and in this case natural ventilation works.

When you want to freshen the air in the steam room after several visits, the hood opens, a shock dose of boiling water splashes into the heater.

Nomad

All the old steam is blown out the hood window. After that, I wave the doors a little, creating an additional flow, put a new wormwood, close the window, and the steam room is as good as new, as if it had never been steamed there.

The way "from the grandfather"

There is also an interesting way of airing the bath, which came down from our ancestors, which EsKor, a member of our portal, saw in the bath “at one gray-haired grandfather”. In this bath, the only specially made means of ventilation was an outlet a meter from the floor, under the shelf. What is the meaning of such a breather? It turned out that the gray-haired grandfather “freshened” the air in the steam room in almost the same way as Nomad, only he prepared a bucket of ice water in advance and poured it on the shelves either a moment before or immediately after a shock dose of water was charged into the heater.

EsKor

Grandpa explained that cold water, which falls on the floor from the shelf, pulls the steam down to itself, and it takes stale air with it and flies into the vent. No mysticism, physics explains this matter well.

Cold water cools the steam, condensation occurs, a decrease in pressure causes an increased flow of air above the steam layer, and the steam literally falls from the ceiling.

It is clear that this method is not suitable for dry-air baths and for steam rooms with a blank floor and no drain.

Different schemes of ventilation of the Russian bath

Let's consider how such a ventilation system works on the examples of several saunas of FORUMHOUSE participants.

Here is the bathhouse of our participant with the nickname Vasisdas.

Vasisdas

Everything ingenious is simple! Heater stove, door, window and solid wood. Learning how to use it is a matter of technology.

How the window in the steam room was made: a double-glazed window on the side of the facade of the bath, a ventilation gap in the thickness of the wall pie, on the side of the steam room there is a decorative window. This avoids unnecessary heat loss and is simply beautiful.

Our member with the nickname I build for myself a small combined steam room-washing room, 2.5 by 2.1 and 2.1 m high.

The ventilation system includes:

  • the window at the shelf is 300x300mm along the frame, the opening itself is 200x200;
  • air in the upper crown under the ceiling 150x150mm;
  • airflow near the floor under the shelf 150x150 mm.

The upper air is always closed, it is opened only to dry the steam room after use. Also, our user sometimes opens it to create a softer mode for the wife and daughter.

While vaping, all openings are closed. The height of the window is chosen successfully, the heat from the steam room is not blown out.

During soaring, two types of ventilation are used:

  • simple ventilation: you leave the steam room, open the window and leave the door ajar.
  • quick ventilation through the window in the steam room and the window under the shelf.

To dry the steam room, all openings and windows are opened.

I build for myself

The air from the street through the dressing room window goes along the floor into the lower vent under the shelf (draft), partially heated by the still hot stove and rises above the shelf into the upper vent. There is a draft under the floor from the vents in the basement. In winter, I close them for soaring.

Such "old ways" of bath ventilation, without arranging ventilation ducts, our user considers justified and quite sufficient for a heat-intensive stove.

This is how ventilation is arranged in the bathhouse of our participant with the nickname Mikhalych Titov. The inflow is made through a half-brick hole in the side wall.

When viewed from the street, it looks like this.

The downward branch, into which condensate flows, is closed with a screw plug. The entrance from the sink is made under the oven.

When building a bath, a member of our portal with the nickname Chagav attached special importance to ventilation. In the rest room, he made forced ventilation (one inlet and two exhaust), and natural ventilation was made in the steam room.

If desired, air enters the steam room from the street - pipes are poured into the foundation, corrugated stainless steel passes through the stones of the stove. It opens and closes with a latch.

In order for bath procedures to bring only benefit and pleasure, two conditions are necessary:

  • high level of temperature and humidity in the steam room;
  • the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen.

These seemingly mutually exclusive tasks are solved by ventilation in the bathhouse in general and in the steam room in particular. Despite the fact that high humidity and temperature should be maintained in the steam room of the Russian bath, one cannot do without access to fresh (cold) air: oxygen is processed by our lungs, partially burned out by the stove, and carbon monoxide (CO - chemical formula carbon monoxide).

How to make ventilation in the bath. In the figure, red arrows show the movement of hot air, blue - cold

If you do not organize the replacement of “exhausted” air with fresh air, instead of improving health and increasing efficiency (this is what we go to the bath for), you can get lethargy, weakness and headache, and at worst - a hospital bed or even a place in the cemetery.

Properly arranged ventilation provides air circulation, while oxygen enters in sufficient quantities, and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide are released into the atmosphere. After the end of the bath procedures, with good ventilation, the steam is actively removed outside the building, and the rooms in which there was previously high humidity dry out. If this aspect was not given sufficient attention, after a couple of years in the steam room, and then in other rooms, the lining rots, the smell of mustiness and sweat appears and gradually increases, and the wood turns into dust. Now, I hope, it is clear whether ventilation is needed in the bath ...


Heating and ventilation of the bath. Please note that the exhaust hole is located at a low height from the floor - as a rule, not higher than 50 cm. With this scheme, exhaust steam is emitted into the atmosphere. Moreover, the floor in the steam room warms up well

Ventilation in the bath is not needed in only one case: if it is all built of wood and has not been insulated anywhere - neither inside nor outside. In this case, air exchange occurs due to the fact that the wood "breathes". Even in this case, they talk about the presence of natural ventilation in the bath: any wood has pores and cracks through which the outflow / inflow of air occurs, temperature and humidity are regulated. But if there is insulation or moisture / vapor insulation in the bath from rounded logs, then the creation of additional ventilation holes is necessary.

There are three types of ventilation:

  1. mechanical ventilation. In this case, the inflow and outflow of air masses occurs due to artificially created air movement. Air parameters are controlled by technical means.
  2. Natural ventilation: circulation occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This method is possible only if there are "breathing" walls or thoughtfully arranged ventilation vents.
  3. Combined ventilation: simultaneous use of the natural movement of air masses and technical devices(in the simplest case - fans).

The video below shows a variant of combined ventilation.

In a specific case, 100 micron aluminum foil was used in the construction of the ventilation duct.

Bath ventilation device

In the very simple version, the ventilation system of a steam room or bath consists of two (sometimes more) holes in the walls and / or foundation: supply and exhaust. The whole trick is in choosing the location of these holes and in their sizes. Sometimes, to provide more active air exchange, fans can be installed.


Heating and ventilation of the bath. In the simplest case, the exhaust vent is located near the ceiling

There is no single ventilation scheme for a bath: they are too different, as design features as well as the materials from which they are made. But there are general rules and some of the most common schemes, adhering to which, you can choose the optimal ventilation for your particular case.

The dimensions of the ventilation openings are calculated based on the volume of the steam room: for one cubic meter of ventilated area, the size of the openings should be 24 cm 2.

Despite the fact that the main task in the bath is to maintain high humidity in the steam room and a sufficient level of temperature, it is impossible to make the ventilation holes too small: they will not provide the necessary level of air exchange. Exhaust vents must match the size of the supply: if the proportions are violated, air exchange will also be insufficient. In some cases, to speed up the removal of exhaust air and speed up the drying of the bath, two exhaust holes can be made.


To ensure the required air conditions when heating the steam room, special covers / plugs are made on the ventilation ducts that can be opened / closed from the steam room, thereby regulating humidity / temperature / air exchange. Generally speaking, the presence of plugs or covers on any vent facing the street is a must: in winter, cold air actively rushes into a warm room and the presence of covers or regulators to stop it is necessary.

Where can there be supply and exhaust openings

Most often, at least partially located in the steam room. In this case, the supply hole is made near the furnace at a distance no higher than 30 cm from the floor. The incoming cold air quickly warms up from the furnace and rises. It's quite popular, but not the most The best way organization of ventilation for the bath. Ventilation is much more effective when the supply openings are located in the foundation under the floor (so that rodents do not penetrate through them, the openings are equipped with metal gratings). This option solves two problems at once: it delivers fresh air to the bath, and also effectively dries the floors and walls after the procedures are completed. Floor boards, in this case, are not laid close, but with a small gap for free passage of air. If you don’t want to leave gaps in the floor (although this is very good for a bath), you can make several ventilation holes in the floor, covered with wooden grates. The air movement in this case will not be so active, more powerful fans may be needed, but the circuit will remain operational.


When planning the supply vents in the foundation, keep in mind that the air in the bath should come from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise it will have a musty smell. To organize air intake from the street, a box made of wood (often home-made), plastic or metal (ready-made) is placed in the hole, and it is also taken out near the stove. Usually, the inlets are located in the area that is protected by a metal or asbestos sheet from coals and firebrands.

Ventilation openings in the foundation are provided at the planning stage. If the foundation is already ready, but there are no ventilation holes, you can make the floor ventilation in the steam room differently: lay the floor boards on the logs, but not close to each other, but with a gap of 0.5-1 cm. In the gap between the draft (earth / concrete) floor and the finishing floor, an outlet is arranged, which passes into a ventilation pipe that leads the exhaust air to the roof (but not to the attic). This option provides for the presence of only one inlet, which is usually arranged below the heater. The exhaust pipe under the floor is installed on the opposite side of the room (but not opposite, but obliquely).

It is impossible to make an exhaust pipe in the steam room from plastic boxes for ventilation - they cannot withstand high temperatures, but they can be used in the locker room or washing department admissible.

With such a ventilation scheme in the steam room, cold air warms up near the stove, rises up, then, cooling down, falls down, seeps through the cracks in the floor under the floor and is discharged through the outlet pipe. These two options effectively remove moisture after the bath, they can also be considered floor ventilation schemes in the bath.


Exhaust openings can be located on the opposite wall from the supply opening (if both of these walls face the street) or on the same wall, but in the opposite corner. There is a scheme in which they are located at the top on the opposite wall (30 cm from the ceiling), sometimes they are located below (30 cm from the floor). If the exhaust vent is at the bottom or on the same wall as the supply vent, a fan is needed to create airflow.

In order for the ventilation in the bath to remain effective, it is impossible:

  • make ventilation vents smaller than calculated ones;
  • position the supply and exhaust openings one opposite the other - so the incoming air is almost immediately removed without giving up oxygen, a draft is formed, which is contraindicated for a bath.

Steam room ventilation schemes

Consider some of the most common options for ventilation in the steam room:


These are the most commonly used ventilation schemes for steam rooms in the bath, there are many more variations and combinations. Based on these four options for organizing ventilation, you can develop a scheme for your steam room.

Ventilation in the washing section of the bath

In the washing room, high humidity is a common thing, and so that the lining does not rot or appear bad smell floor ventilation must be provided. It is arranged similarly to floor ventilation in a steam room: an exhaust hole is made between the rough and finishing floors, which can be equipped with a fan. The exhaust pipe is displayed on the roof.

With such a floor ventilation scheme in the washing compartment, the coldest exhaust air is removed, and warmer air from the upper layers descends in its place. Thus, an increase in the comfort of the people living here is also achieved.


The principle of the ventilation device in all other rooms of the bath is the same. You need to decide on the optimal ventilation system specifically for your conditions and select / develop the most suitable scheme. The ventilation in the washing department differs only in that, due to lower air temperatures, plastic ventilation ducts can be used here (which cannot be done in the steam room) and fans can be installed not heat-resistant, but only tolerant of high humidity (moisture-proof).

Brick and Turkish bath ventilation

When planning a ventilation system for brick bath it must be taken into account that its efficiency should be several times higher than that of wood. Indeed, in this case, it will be necessary to dry not only the inner lining of the steam room / washing / locker room, but also the walls: brick is a very hygroscopic material. To remove all moisture, it is necessary that the inflow / outflow of air during the drying period be very active, and the vents should have reliable dampers that allow you to adjust the intensity of air movement.

With a ventilation device with its 100% humidity, exhaust ventilation must also be very efficient: in an hour of operation, it is necessary to provide six changes of air in the room. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of draining the condensate that forms during cooling in large quantities. There are two ways to solve this problem: install an air dryer in the pipe, which discharges condensate into the sewer system, or provide a channel for condensate drainage in the ventilation pipe (it also goes into the sewer).

Conclusion: it is necessary to plan ventilation at the design stage of the bath, placing supply vents in the foundation. If necessary, you can make vents in the finished walls, but this is quite troublesome and difficult.

Many novice developers very often ask the question: Do I need ventilation in the bath? Why let cold air inside, if so much effort and materials went into its insulation? On the one hand, this is a paradox, and on the other, a necessity, and in order to understand this issue, you need to weigh all the pros and cons (if any) of installing ventilation in the steam room.

What threatens the lack of ventilation in the bath

In ancient times, when they knew absolutely nothing about ventilation, baths in Russia, like houses, were made without ventilation holes. But there is an explanation for this. As building material logs were used. The lower crown of the logs was made free, which allowed fresh air to enter through the cracks in the log house. Regulated the temperature in the steam room - by opening front door. Here you have the simplest, but no less effective ventilation of the bath, which was used by our ancestors.

In modern construction, completely different materials are used, and the approach to the construction of buildings is somewhat different. But if, during the construction of the bath, you do not think about laying the ventilation system, then the consequences of this will not keep you waiting, namely:

  • Rapid wear of materials that were used for cladding and insulation of the bath. Without proper ventilation of the bath, after several years of operation, the owner will have to change not only the lining, but also the floor, and, quite possibly, the insulation. Temperature fluctuations and moisture, which is an inevitable companion of a steam room, are a destructive force that destroys materials in 3-5 years.
  • The appearance of an unpleasant odor. This will inevitably happen in an unventilated steam room, as dampness and heat are the perfect microclimate for mold and mildew to grow. It is almost impossible to get rid of the smell of mold and mustiness in such a room, since applying chemicals in the bath is strictly prohibited. This is not only harmful, but deadly.
  • Poisoned air in the steam room. First of all, without proper air exchange, the level of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide can rise sharply in the steam room. Probably, there is no need to tell anyone what will happen to a person with an increase in the concentration of carbon monoxide by at least 0.1%. In addition, the high temperature of the air in the steam room, which is filled with evaporated sweat from your body. Well, in general, there can be no question of any healing effect in such an atmosphere.

The above arguments are enough to understand the axiom: ventilation in the steam room of the bath is not just necessary, but vital.

What should be the ventilation in the bath

As a rule, the ventilation of the steam room is limited to two or three ventilation openings of the required section. One supply, and the rest for the removal of "exhaust" air. It should be borne in mind that for a comfortable state of health, the air circulation in such a room should be at least 5 times. This means that the entire volume of air in the steam room must change five times in 1 hour. There are several nuances that are required for the installation of any ventilation scheme.

  • You need to think about the location and size of the ventilation holes in the bath at the stage of its construction, since it will be very difficult to make holes in the finished steam room.
  • The dimensions of the supply and exhaust vents must match. In some cases, the dimensions of the hood may be larger than the inflow.
  • Ventilation openings must be equipped with valves. This will allow you to regulate the intensity of air circulation, and when heating the steam room, they can be completely closed to raise the temperature more quickly.
  • A very important parameter is the cross section of the ventilation vents. It is important to know that their cross section depends entirely on the volume of the steam room. There should be 24 cm2 of ventilation per 1 m3 of volume.

The device of the ventilation system in the bath room

We have already talked a lot about what kind of ventilation is. For a bath, the same laws apply, and ventilation in it can be:

  • Natural. With this type of ventilation, the circulation of air masses is created due to the difference in temperature and pressure between the air flow and the hood. Good circulation of air flows can be achieved only by the correct installation of ventilation openings: the inflow is at the bottom, and the exhaust is at the top of the room. As you know from school courses in physics, hot air rises and cold air goes down, so such a ventilation device in the bath will not be very convenient in terms of warming it up.
  • Combined. This method of ventilation assumes the presence of one opening of natural ventilation and one vent, with a fan installed in it. The inflow will be mechanized or exhaust - it all depends on the scheme you have chosen.
  • Mechanical. Such a ventilation system independently controls the flow of air masses and their exhaust, temperature and humidity, with the help of automation. From the point of view of comfort, it is in the first place, but prices - in baths, such a system is practically not used due to the complexity of installation, and the high cost of equipment, design and maintenance.

Examples of ready-made ventilation schemes

There are several working ventilation schemes in the bath, which provide good air circulation, despite the fact that the steam room does not get cold.

  1. The air inlet should be located at floor level, behind the stove, and the exhaust holes should be near the ceiling, but on the opposite wall from the inflow. Thanks to this arrangement, the incoming, colder air will enter the steam room and immediately be heated by the heater. After that, it rises to the ceiling, goes around it and lowers a little to exit into the exhaust vent.
  2. If your stove works constantly during bathing procedures, you can use this option, where the inlet is located 30 cm from the floor, on the opposite side of the stove, and the blower and chimney will play the role of an exhaust hood.
  3. If your bath has ventilated floors, then you can make an inflow behind the stove, at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor. Cold air will enter the steam room, heated by the stove and rise up. Colder masses will sink, pass through the ventilation in the floor and be discharged outside the room.

And here are several options for the location of the inflow and exhaust using an exhaust fan.

  1. The air inlet is located 30 cm from the floor - behind the stove, and the hood is located on the opposite wall 20 cm from the floor. One caveat: a fan is installed in the hood, which will create air circulation.
  2. The inlet and outlet vents are located on the same wall, but only one is at the top and the other is at the bottom. Supply, located 30 cm from the floor, is equipped exhaust fan given power.
  3. The inflow is installed behind the stove, at a height of 30 cm from the floor and is equipped with a fan. An exhaust hole is made on the opposite wall 20 cm from the floor. The blown air is heated by the stove and heats the entire steam room evenly. After that, it, cooling down, goes down, where it exits through the hood.

Important!
To calculate the fan power, you need to multiply the volume of the steam room by the air circulation rate. Example: Steam room 2 m by 3 m. Its area is 6 m2. Ceiling height 2 m. Total: 6 x 2 = 12 m3. Now we multiply 12 m3 by the recommended air circulation rate of 5 and get 60 m3 / h fan performance for our steam room.

The most common mistakes in arranging ventilation in the bath

One of the most common mistakes of those who decide to do the ventilation of the bath with their own hands is the location of the inflow and exhaust vents on the same level. From such an arrangement, except for a draft, there will be no sense. If you used this arrangement of ventilation holes, then the inflow should be done behind the stove and equipped with a fan, and the exit, at the same level, but on the opposite wall.

Another mistake of novice builders is that many try to seal the bathhouse as much as possible from air entering it, make small windows and forget about arranging floor ventilation. Yes, such a steam room will heat up very quickly, but it will be impossible to take wellness treatments in it.

In fact, there are many shortcomings, and it is simply impossible to count them all, but by following certain rules, you can build a dream bath with your own hands, without additional costs for correcting mistakes.

Baths have always been famous for their healing properties. But in order to obtain a healing effect, it is necessary not only to listen to the advice of doctors, but also to organize the correct ventilation system in your own bath.

Those who have been to the classic village baths, made of wood, are unlikely to remember the presence in such paired exhaust holes. In fact, they are not there. After all, a small amount of fresh air entering the bath from cracks in the floor, window or doorway, can provide the needs of 2-3 people.

But a bathhouse designed for a large capacity, and even more so a brick one, must necessarily be equipped with a ventilation system to fulfill the following important points:

  • supply of fresh air, which prevents the accumulation carbon dioxide in the steam room and preserves the health of people in the bath;
  • air circulation, which allows you to dry the room after bath procedures. This prevents the occurrence in the bath unpleasant odors, the growth of mold fungi and helps to increase the life of the building without the need to replace wood elements;
  • uniform distribution of heated air in the steam room of the bath.

Moreover, if the hood is arranged correctly, it should not lead to the following unpleasant consequences:

  • to a drop in temperature in the steam room during bath procedures;
  • violation of the correct stratification of air by temperature - the coolest layer should be at the bottom;
  • removal from the steam room clean air rather than saturated with carbon dioxide.

It is easy to breathe in a well-ventilated steam room, and it is pleasant to relax

How is bath ventilation

It is correct to provide for the bath ventilation system even at the construction stage, because it is at this moment that you can make the hood correctly and independently with the lowest labor and material costs. In addition, the process of making holes in the finished structure can lead to a decrease in the strength of the walls.

Air exchange in a bath is provided by means of two openings.

  1. The supply opening is located at the bottom and provides fresh air to the bath.
  2. The exhaust opening is located at the top on the wall opposite the supply opening. Thanks to the exhaust, the exhaust air is removed from the steam room. However, if the opening is located very close to the ceiling, then hot air is quickly removed from the room, which leads to a decrease in the temperature of the steam room.

This design allows you to adjust the direction of the air flow. At the moment when the bath is heated, all three holes are in a closed state. When people are steaming, the supply and lower exhaust openings are open. After bath procedures, all ventilation is in the open state, which allows you to dry the bath well.

Ventilation in the bath can be mechanical. In it, the air in the steam room circulates thanks to the injection equipment. In a more complex and expensive version, special devices monitor the air supply process, which, if necessary, start the ventilation system. The use of a mechanical hood allows you to place holes on any of the walls, as well as correct errors in the organization of natural ventilation.

In any case, to ensure air exchange in the bath, there are several exhaust schemes that differ from each other in the location of the holes.

Video - Ventilation in a bath with an oven - air conditioning

Methods for ventilation in the bath

We describe some of the most popular and simple ways arrangement of ventilation in the steam room. They can be either with the use of fans, or carried out in a completely natural way.

Method 1

This is the one described above natural ventilation scheme with one inlet and two outlets. The inlet in such a system is made in the wall immediately behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 m from the floor surface.

To connect the outlets to each other, a box is used, which is made of wooden planks, a corrugated pipe about one meter long is laid in it. The holes themselves are provided with plugs that allow you to adjust the air flow, as described above. In addition to the plugs, you will also need gratings to prevent insects and rodents from entering the bath through ventilation.

This system is applicable for small baths.

Method 2

This is another simple and most common scheme for ventilating the bath space. In it, the supply hole is located behind the stove just above the floor (about 0.3 m). The hood is located at the same height, but on the opposite wall and is equipped with a fan that forcibly draws out the exhaust air.

Method 3

Method 3 is somewhat similar to the previous one. Only the air inlet is arranged at a height of half a meter from the heater, and the outlet is just above the floor (about 0.2 m). The hood is equipped with a fan.

Method 4

Method 4 is used for baths in which the steam room has only one wall facing the street. In this system, air inlet and outlet openings are located on the same wall opposite the stove. Air enters into the lower hole, located at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exits into the upper one, which is located 30 cm below the ceiling and is equipped with a fan.

Clean air enters the room, collides with the stove, heats up, rises and is directed through the outlet to the outside.

Method 5

Method 5 is suitable for baths in which there are small gaps of half a centimeter between the floor boards. The inlet is located behind the stove. The cooled and exhausted air descends to the floor and exits through cracks in the underground, where there is an exhaust hole in the basement wall, connected to a ventilation pipe that discharges air flows above the roof.

Method 6

If the stove is heated in your steam room for the entire period of operation of the bath, then the blower can itself perform the function of ventilation, or rather, the hood. In this case, only an air inlet is needed, which is located near the floor opposite the stove. The blower should be slightly lower than the finished floor.

Step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation

When arranging a bath with ventilation, it is important to observe the following conditions:

  • if the bath is adjacent to a residential building, then the air flow should go in the direction from the housing to the steam room;
  • the exhaust hole is connected to a box or pipe, which is necessarily brought out above the roof of the bath;
  • the hood should not be done over the shelves in order to exclude the effects of a draft on steamed people.

In general, the ventilation installation process can be described as follows.

Step 1

In selected places, at the construction stage, or prepare after construction, inlet and outlet openings, the cross section of which should be 10-20 cm.

Step 2

Prepared holes are equipped with boxes made of metal, plastic or wood.

Step 3

Install an exhaust fan if necessary.

Note! For baths, it is necessary to use ventilation equipment made of heat-resistant material and with a protection class of at least IP-44.

Step 4

Mounted on grille holes and plugs.

Step 5

The outlet is connected to a pipe that is led out above the roof.

Note! In addition to ventilation of the room, it is necessary to ensure air circulation under the floor. To do this, at the construction stage, holes are made in the basement on opposite sides, which are covered with gratings to protect against rodents.

In such simple ways, you can arrange bath ventilation, ensuring a long service life of the steam room and a comfortable stay in it.

Video - Ventilation scheme in the bath