Homemade solenoid valve for air 220v. Check valve as solenoid

The main thing in gardening is to ensure regular watering of the site. Without it, any garden will not survive even one season. Watering by hand requires a lot of time and labor. For good garden a modern water supply system is needed, where an important element is an electromagnetic valve for irrigation.

Advantages of automatic watering

The main elements of the irrigation system are as follows:

• dosing of water consumption;
• uniformity of application;
• profitability (watering at night reduces the evaporation of moisture);
• the system is underground;
• saves labor and time of the gardener.

Purpose of the solenoid valve

An electromagnetic valve for irrigation is always needed, even if there is no irrigation system. It is used in conjunction with a timer that includes it in right time. Especially it is needed to fill the storage tank. When water is supplied according to the schedule, the timer opens the valve and the tank is filled. It is advisable to water the site at the same time. All this is done in the absence of the owner. He can only water hard-to-reach places.

The main purpose of the valve is to supply water to the irrigation system at a given time. A 1-inch device is suitable for this, passing 50-100 l / min at a pressure of up to 10 atm. It can also be used in short watering areas, as it allows you to adjust the desired local flow rate. It is suitable for spray and drip irrigation when the pressure in the system is weak.

One or more valves are installed on a gravel drainage pad and closed with a box. This can be done in any convenient place.

Solenoid valve device

The valve is very simple. It contains the following details.

The male inlet and outlet threads are 1/4" or more depending on the fluid flow rate. The least amount of water passes through the solenoid valve for drip irrigation. Small-sized devices are built into the pipeline with water and operate on a timer that sets different irrigation modes.

Recently, models combined with a switch have appeared. Can be purchased through the online store of the company "Yulmart": solenoid valve for watering C 1060 plus GARDENA, which has become popular. He produces automatic switching water supply for garden irrigation.

Solenoid valve for irrigation: scheme of work

Connecting the solenoid valve to the garden watering system

For a small garden better fit solenoid valve for watering -12 volts (NT8048). It is safe, because when water gets on the contacts and when touched wet hands electric shock will not occur. Possibility of connecting to battery at 15 Ah allows you to work without recharging for a week. It will also be easy to make power from the shield through the network adapter.

Water is supplied from a storage tank installed at a height of at least 2 m. The water in it is collected from a centralized system. Filling is controlled by a float switch connected to a plug valve. The absence of a pump eliminates many problems. Watering the garden by gravity occurs within a few hours and does not need to be controlled. All irrigation management will take over electronic timer connected to an outlet.

The valve is installed in the pressure line of the irrigation system. The electromagnet coil is connected to the adapter output via a cable using terminals. They can be closed on top with sealant to protect against water.

The whole device is conveniently placed in the utility room, where you can hold a socket. A timer, an adapter and an electromagnet coil are connected in series to it. It remains to set the irrigation mode. The time is chosen morning and evening, so that there is a minimum of evaporation, and the plants do not burn in the sun. The duration of irrigation is set, which is then selected experimentally.

On the different types plants watering should be different. The system can be gradually improved by adding new valves. You can connect your own timer to each of them or install a common microcontroller, setting the irrigation program.

Valves from old washing machines can be installed on the outlet pipelines, which will save a lot on the cost of the irrigation system.

Do-it-yourself solenoid valve for watering

Electric valves are expensive, but cheaper solutions can be found. The most accessible here is a valve from a failed washing machine. His device is as follows:

• plastic case;
• rubber membrane;
• core electromagnet;
• spring;
• mesh filter;
• pad.

The mechanism is highly sensitive to dirt and can easily fail. It is protected, but for a garden system it is advisable to put another one at the valve inlet, since your own will quickly become clogged.

The solenoid valve is normally closed, i.e. in the off state it shuts off the water. When turned on, the core retracts, lifting the rubber membrane and allowing water to pass through.

To remove the contaminated washing liquid, a drain valve is used, which is similarly arranged. The principle of operation is the same and it can be successfully used for irrigation.

Washing machine solenoid valves have the following characteristics:

• supply voltage - ;
• power - 8 W;
• water pressure - up to 10 atm;
• inlet hose diameter - 3/4 ";
• liquid consumption - 10 l/min.

Faults and repairs

Conclusion

It takes a lot of time and effort to maintain a garden and vegetable garden. A real savior for the owner is an electromagnetic valve for irrigation, which serves to fill the storage tank in his absence, pump water from the well, and especially in the irrigation system.

Modern industry produces a wide variety of taps and valves for regulating the flow of fluid. There is a suitable one for every application. However, the inquisitive minds of home craftsmen do not leave attempts to develop and implement their own designs. Sometimes this is caused by the desire to save money, but more often by the desire to check own forces as a designer, machine builder, locksmith and electrical engineer.

Types of cranes

Trying to repeat the design of a conventional shut-off valve does not make practical and economic sense if the home workshop is not equipped with high-precision milling, turning and drilling machines. The price of industrial designs in mass production is affordable even for the most modest budget. Another thing is technically complex shut-off valves for special applications, such as:

• ball with electric drive;
• needle;
• non-freezing;
• with instantaneous water heater;

Do-it-yourself options for their implementation will be discussed below.

Ball with electric drive,

The motorized valve can be used in modern "smart" plumbing, heating and air conditioning systems created by home craftsmen with minimal use of purchased components. In addition to testing your strength, there will also be a significant monetary benefit - a purchased device with an electric drive costs from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

For a do-it-yourself ball valve with an installed electric drive, you will need the following materials and components:

• ball valve 3/4″;

• power window drive for Lada 1117, 2123 left LSA;

• automotive five-contact relays - 2 pcs.;
• limit microswitches - 2 pcs.;
• sheet metal 1 mm thick (for the frame and clamps);
• steel tube 10 mm - trimmings (for bushings);
• square profile 10 * 10 mm - 10 cm;
• metal strip 4 mm thick - 10 * 1 cm;
• spring with a diameter of 12 mm;
• bolt М8*45 with nut and washers - 2 pcs.

All electrical equipment is 12 volts. Of the tools you need:

• drill;
• metal scissors;
• workbench with vise;
• welding machine;
• manual metalwork tool(hammer, screwdriver, spanners, pliers, etc.)

The created mechanism should allow you to control the electric crane both with the help of a drive and manually. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

• Bend the U-shaped frame from a sheet of metal.
• From the tube segments, make bushings for attaching the power window drive to the frame.
• Fasten the drive.
• Fasten the bed to the branch pipes coming out of the ball valve using clamps.
• From a square profile, cut out a nozzle for the gearbox axle.
• Weld a strip to it.
• From the strip and the handle, assemble the lever mechanism of the drive by springing it. The spring presses the levers together, if necessary, they can be quickly disconnected without the use of tools and the crane can be operated manually.
• Hinge the strip to the handle with a bolt and nut. Lock the nut.
• Attach the square profile to the power window gear shaft.

Next, you should test the kinematics by applying voltage to the electric motor. You can use a car battery or power supply with at least 50 watts. The lever transmission should move smoothly, without jerks and distortions. If necessary, correct the touching parts with a file.

Now comes the turn of the electrical part of the drive.

• In the extreme positions of the handle, mount the limit microswitches.
• They should be connected in such a way that they open the control circuit of the relay through which the engine is turned on, upon reaching the extreme position "Open" or "Closed".

Such a drive can be connected to the control circuits of the smart home system. A do-it-yourself electric water faucet will be cost-effective if the power window drive is inexpensive. A new one costs up to 1 thousand rubles, and can eat up half of the savings.

Instead of a power window drive, you can use any other electric drive,

close in power and torque.

Needle

A needle valve with a large adjustment range can be assembled from salvaged materials at low cost. To make it you will need:

• Syringe plastic disposable 2 ml.
• Insulin syringe 1 ml.
• Bearing ball - 2 pcs.
• Springs - 2 pcs.
• Nut and adjusting screw.
• Epoxy adhesive.
• Fasteners.
• Plastic ties - 2 pcs.

The diagram shows:

• Syringes are black.
• Balls are blue.
• Springs are green.
• Stock is red.
• The direction of fluid movement is indicated by green arrows.

To make a crane, you should:

• Choose balls according to diameter. The large one should be slightly smaller than the internal size of the 2 ml syringe, the small one should be 2 times smaller.
• Select spring force. The compression force of a large spring is about twice that of a small one.
• Drill a hole in a large syringe near the spout, equal to the inner diameter of the insulin. Pull the insulin syringe by the ears with ties, wrap it with synthetic threads and glue it.
• Insert the small ball and the smaller spring into the large syringe.
• Cut off the piston rod.
• Insert the large spring and the second ball.
• Insert adjusting screw.
• Tighten the nut with screws to the ears.

The incoming liquid will tend to push the ball away from the inlet, the spring will push it back the stronger, the more the adjusting screw is turned. If the screw is completely turned out, the flow will pass freely, if it is completely twisted, the flow will be blocked.

Antifreeze faucet

For those who need to use the water supply on the site in winter time are facing the problem of outdoor faucet freezing. With large temperature fluctuations, the water inside the fittings and pipes turns into ice and can break them.

There are several ways to organize such a water supply:

• Installing a purchased non-freezing tap. In it, the valve plate is inside warm circuit walls. It is always installed with a slope towards the street. Then, after closing the valve, the water remaining in the pipe flows down and does not freeze in the pipe. The devices are available in different lengths, which allows you to install them in walls of various thicknesses.

• A homemade version of such a device is a conventional poppet faucet mounted on a supply inside a warm wall contour. Its stem is extended by a rod passing through the wall in the tube. Outside, a handle is fixed on the bar. The branch pipe must also be installed with a slope towards the street. This method requires an extra hole in the wall, but is several times cheaper. Of course, you will have to periodically chip off the ice that forms under the spout.

• A faucet installed on an underground insulated water supply. In this case, it is necessary to have a drainage into which the water remaining after closing the tap in the vertical pipe will drain. The design uses a three-way valve installed in an insulated pit.

• The valve is controlled from the street through a stem extension. In the working position, it turns on the water supply to the vertical pipe, at the end of which a spout is mounted. As soon as the water is collected, the tap is closed, the supply stops, and the water remaining in the pipe through the third hole of the tap is drained into the drain.

Sensory

It is unlikely that a home master will be able to make a full-fledged touch tap. the main problem will be in the placement and waterproofing of the infrared proximity sensor. A rather interesting design that allows you to turn the water on and off with busy hands can be assembled using

• Solenoid valve from a washing machine for 220 v - 2 pcs.
• Fitting 10mm * 1/2 external thread -2 pcs.
• Fittings ¾ to ½ int. thread - 2 pcs.
• Call button for surface mounting.
• Wires.

The order of installation and configuration is as follows:

• The valves are mounted in the break of the hot and cold water line, directly in front of the mixer.
• Their drive is connected via a foot switch.
• During pre-setting, with the solenoid valves open, set the desired temperature and water flow rate and leave the mixer valve in this position.
• If you need to turn on the water, just press the bell button - the valves will work, and water will flow from the tap.

When water is no longer needed, it is enough to release the key, and the springs will return the valves to the closed state. Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing of wires and connections.

Instantaneous water heater on the faucet

Purchased instantaneous electric water heaters have compact design and are equipped with a temperature control system, spout and aerator. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make such a nozzle on a crane with your own hands in a home workshop. The main problem lies in the accuracy of processing parts and ensuring the electrical safety of the device. However, homemade products have developed a simple and quite effective design that allows you to do without complex and expensive components. It works by heating the heat exchanger-coil on gas or electric hotplate. For the manufacture of enough average plumbing skills.

From materials and tools you will need:

• Copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm - 1 meter
• Rubber or plastic hoses, heat-resistant - 2 distances from the burner to the sink +1 m
• 2 fittings from the inner diameter of the hoses to ½
• Crane adapter for eurocube
• 4 clamps
• Threaded arms and nuts for them - 2 pcs.
• Construction knife, screwdriver, gas wrench

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• Wind a spiral from the tube in the shape of a burner. Cone the spiral to make the most of the heat from the burner. The straight sections of the inlet and outlet pipe should extend 20-30 cm beyond the plate panel.
• Fasten the spiral to the plate grate. Put the hoses on the nozzles and secure them with clamps.
• Connect one fitting to the cold water supply (pipe or canister tap), the other to the mixer.
• Put the free ends of the hoses on the fittings and also secure with clamps. Cold water should go to the bottom of the coil.

When such a heater is in operation, it must not be left unattended for a minute.

For automatic control of various hydraulic systems electric valves are required. Finished products are quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

The most accessible valves are from failed washing machines.

The coils of such devices are designed for a voltage of 220 volts AC, which limits their capabilities. Sometimes it is more convenient to control the valve with a low voltage of 12 volts.

I needed such a device to regulate the mode of the heater of the passenger compartment of a VAZ car. Suitable valves from foreign cars are outrageously expensive, and with the appreciation of the currency they become a luxury item. Let's try to convert the solenoid valve from the washing machine to the on-board voltage of the car.

First, let's see how it all works.

We remove the coil by inserting a thin screwdriver into the gap between the solenoid and the housing. In this case, you can slightly compress the petals that fix the solenoid coil with pliers.

To operate at 12 volts, the valve solenoid (coil) must be replaced.

The most suitable solenoid was found in the EPPKh VAZ 2105 air valve.

Since no images of the insides were found on the Internet, I will give them for the curious.

Let's start disassembly

The simplest thing is to cut off the rolling on the emery or cut it with a file along the outer edge.
Valve cover (view from inside):

Stock, he's a cork. The air flow is blocked by a rubber insert at the end. On the opposite end there is a recess for the spring:

Steel washer to close the magnetic flux and non-magnetic guide in which the stem moves:

Coil:
1. In the case.

2. Taken out.

Oval o-rings seal the leads from the inside of the housing. We will need one of them in the future, so save them.

And finally, the case from the inside. The end face of the fixed magnetic circuit with a protrusion for the spring is visible:

The next step is to refine the hull. On emery we grind a tube with a rivet with back side, and putting the case upside down, gently knock out the remnants of the internal magnetic circuit with a beard. If the body is washed inward, we eliminate the deformation. Next, the central hole is drilled to a diameter of 9mm.

To create a magnetic system similar to the valve system from a washing machine, it is necessary from tin from tin can cut two strips - one 15 mm wide, the other 10 mm wide. The length of the strips should be such that a ring of about 1.5 turns is wound on the valve stem from the washing machine.

Summer is the most successful season for innocent water fun in the country and surrounding areas. Why at cottages? Because, I would not use this valve at home. What are we talking about?
Let's try to figure it out.
And so, let's get started!

In fact, this part of automation is still completely unexplored for me,
However, I would like to find a budget option for experiments. Fortunately, there is a dacha and often, for certain reasons, the possibility of my presence on it does not coincide with the desired schedule for the distribution of water ... What exactly is this for?
There are a lot of options - automatically distribute water to certain areas of the dacha, automatically pour an additional container (because the water supply is limited in time, and the water pressure does not allow you to do everything at once).

Thread 1/2, there is no outer casing, the coil is cast, there is a metal mesh at the inlet to the valve, on the body there is a water supply arrow (inlet-outlet), the principle of operation is a membrane, which closes the valve under the action of a spring. The valve is normally closed.

The seller sends with a track that is absolutely not tracked.

Seller details:

Data from the device:

I want to say right away that the seller's data does not match reality, although the data on the nameplate are more reliable (except for zero pressure).

Firstly, and this is the most important factor - for systems with low pressure, the valve WILL NOT work! He needs support to open the membrane.
Secondly, the current consumed by the coil is 2! (TWO) times more - 430 mA, and during prolonged operation, it heats up significantly. True, the valve begins to open at about 7-8 V.

Now let's start preparing the patient:

We unscrew 4 screws and see: a whole molded plastic frame, a rubber valve, a cylindrical flask in which there is a metal core and a spring supporting the valve in a closed state. On the left in the photo - the entrance of water, on the right - the exit.
As you can see, there is a risk of leakage and there is a risk of failure due to the core and spring not being protected from rust.

PROS: simple design, low cost.
CONS: plastic thread and body, high current consumption, no additional sealant other than a rubber membrane, inability to use in systems with low pressure.

It remains to test it in combat conditions.