How to lay laminate flooring step by step. How to lay a laminate: step-by-step technology, features and installation instructions, important nuances How to lay a laminate correctly

Externally, the laminate flooring is difficult to distinguish from the flooring of precious woods. However, the cost of laminate is an order of magnitude lower. In addition, laying laminate requires much less labor than laying a floor made of natural wood. Also in favor of this material is its fire resistance, high resistance to external factors (it perfectly resists abrasion, temporary and permanent loads).

Compared to natural wood flooring, laminate flooring is also preferable because it does not require periodic polishing (which is necessary for parquet). Thanks to a wide range, you can choose a laminate that imitates the texture of almost any valuable tree, this material is widely used.

Types of bases for laminate

One of the disadvantages of laminate flooring is the high demands on the quality of the base, in particular, on its evenness. It is necessary that on 1m of the floor the irregularities do not exceed 2 - 3 mm.

Laminate can be laid on both concrete and wooden base. The main thing is to comply with the requirements for evenness of the coating. For smoothing out minor irregularities in concrete base self-levelling concrete mix can be used, preparation wooden base somewhat more difficult.

For proper laying of the laminate, it is necessary to cut off all the protruding parts of the boards, and the nails must be finished off so that the hat is at least flush with the floor surface. If any board sags (even slightly), it must be replaced. Otherwise, the laminate floor will begin to creak and sag after a while. If damaged logs became the cause of floor deflections, then you will need to completely re-lay the floor.

To level the wooden base, it is allowed to use sheets of plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, OSB.

Instead of completely re-laying the floor, it may be more appropriate to fill concrete screed. True, in this case, the laying of the laminate will have to be postponed for 30 days - the time of complete drying of the concrete mixture.

Laying laminate on linoleum or tiles is also allowed, the only condition is compliance with the required evenness of the surface.

Laminate installation tools and materials

In order to properly lay the laminate you will need:

• substrate, vapor barrier layer;
• marking tool (ruler, tape measure, pencil);
• saw with small teeth, it is better to use a jigsaw;
• miter box, useful for diagonal laying of the laminate, which requires sawing the laminate at a certain angle;
• a hammer. Used for joining panels;
• glue, only if adhesive bonding of panels is used;
• laminate;
• baseboards, corners for them;
• pipe linings;
• threshold.

Laminate laying tools also include special kits containing a bracket for fixing the last panel, expansion wedges and a special template that ensures the safety of the interlocks when tapped with a hammer.

How to lay a laminate with your own hands + Video

The answer to the question of how to properly lay the laminate on the floor with your own hands is quite simple, for this you just need to follow the rules listed below. The whole process of laying a laminate can be divided into 2 stages:

1. Preparatory, includes leveling the base, cleaning it. You can even vacuum the base.
2. The actual laying of laminate panels, with preliminary spreading of the vapor barrier and the substrate.

It must be remembered that the floor of the laminate belongs to the category of floating floors. This means that when the room temperature changes, the coating expands and contracts, constantly moving. Therefore, the correct laying of the laminate does not provide for rigid fastening of the panels to the base. It is also important to allow the coating to move freely, for this a small gap is left near the walls (usually 10 - 15 mm).

If the laminate is laid close to the wall, then when it expands, it will swell and the lock joints will collapse.

In order to properly lay the laminate on the floor with your own hands, you must adhere to the following rules of the instructions for laying the laminate:

1. A vapor barrier is spread on the prepared and cleaned base, for example, a polyethylene film and a substrate. If the base is not a fresh screed, then you can get by with just one substrate.

1. The first row of laminate panels is laid.

It is important to choose the right way to lay the panels. If the room has a corner door, then the best solution (from an aesthetic point of view) would be diagonal laying of the laminate. True, in this case, you will have to come to terms with the increased consumption of the laminate. For square room up to 15% of the laminate will go to waste, but if the room is stretched out, the amount of waste will become even higher.

The lowest consumption of panels gives classic way laying - in this case, the laminate is laid in the direction from the windows, along or across the light flux. The amount of waste does not exceed 5%.

With a chess or brick laying pattern, the panels of each next row are shifted relative to the previous one by ½ length (by analogy with brickwork).

Regardless of the laying method, it is necessary to shift the end connection by at least 1/3 of the panel in each subsequent row. This will give strength to the coating.

Laying the laminate starts from the corner through which the pipes pass. In order to provide the required gap between the wall and the laminate, special expansion wedges are used, although a panel trim is quite suitable instead. In the future, these same wedges are used to provide the required gap between the wall and the laminate. If there are irregularities in the lower part of the wall, then wedges of different thicknesses will have to be used.

In order for the substrate not to become clogged, it is not recommended to roll it out over the entire room at once, it is better to do this as the laminate is laid.

1. When using the locking type "Lock", tapping with a hammer is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the panels to each other. If the blows fall directly on the lath of the laminate, then the interlock will be destroyed. To prevent this from happening, panel clipping is used.

The "Click" lock connection is more convenient in terms of connecting panels. The panel spike at an angle of about 30° is inserted into the groove of the horizontal panel, fixing is carried out automatically when the panel is lowered. The last panel most often should be somewhat narrower than the rest, for this it is cut in the longitudinal direction.

1. The final stage of the correct laying of the laminate can be considered the installation of skirting boards.

What to pay attention to when installing

When doing work, builders often forget about the level of the door. As a result, after laying the laminate, the door has to be removed from its hinges. So if the door opens inwards, it is better to start laying from it.

In order to ensure the accurate passage of the pipe through the laminate, you first need to make a hole in it, with a diameter slightly larger than the pipe, then a panel cut is made in the center of the hole. In order to give this place a complete look, a plastic stroke is used.

In order to get a really high-quality coating, it is recommended to withstand the laminate for 2 days in the room where it will be laid. Thanks to this, its dimensions will not change much in the future. Laying is allowed to be carried out at a temperature of 15 to 30 ° C and humidity in the room from 40 to 70%.

Properly laid laminate flooring is in no way inferior to a precious wood floor.

Laminate has gained immense popularity for its practicality, aesthetics and simplicity. Floor installation technology with such a coating quite simple: underlay flooring and neat laying of laminate tiles - and an attractive "parquet" is ready. The question is how to lay a laminate with your own hands - it is rather a problem of choosing a material, the range of which is huge, as color scheme and technical specifications as well as in terms of quality.

Features of the choice of material

Laminate flooring structurally involves 2 main layers - the substrate and the laminate

Laminate flooring is structurally 2 main layers - underlay and laminate. The choice of material for these elements is determined by the type of room. Any living space is conditionally divided into several zones: a living room, a bedroom, a working area (kitchen, office), a relaxation area (bath, toilet, balcony) and a walk-through area (entrance hall, corridor).

Choice of laminate

Laminate is a multilayer fiberboard-based tile with protective and decorative layers of paper and polymers; and the top layer is made of polymer resin, providing protection against abrasion and mechanical stress. Material varies according to the following main parameters: the degree of resistance to abrasion and mechanical stress; thickness; temperature regime; moisture resistance; connection method when laying.

These characteristics are part of the product labeling and are fundamental when choosing a tile.

Selection by strength

Laminate subdivided according to strength(abrasion, shock loads) into 6 main classes 21-23 and 31-33. Recently, the material of category 21-23 is practically not produced, and classes 31-33 are preferred.

The strength of the laminate increases with the increase in the figure, but it should be borne in mind that its price is also growing.

The floor in the kitchen is subject to significant stress, therefore, the use of class 23 or 33 slabs is desirable. In this area, cost savings can lead to rapid wear and damage to the coating. A similar approach should be used when choosing coverage for the corridor and hallway. The smallest loads can be assumed in the bedroom or pantry - it makes no sense to buy a laminate with a class higher than 21 or 31. In children's and living rooms, the planned loads must be taken into account, but usually class 22 or 32 is enough (read also the article about linoleum installation).

Choice by thickness

The laminate board is sold in thicknesses of 6-8, 10 and 12 mm. An increase in the thickness of the coating increases its strength, heat-insulating and sound-proofing characteristics, but at the same time the price of the material increases significantly. To the advantage thicker tiles the simplification of their installation during floor installation should also be attributed. Based on this alternative, in residential premises it is recommended to use plates of medium thickness - 7 and 8 mm.

Connection method

The most simple are plates for adhesive mounting.

Standard laminate boards have 3 main ways to connect them when laying: adhesive, Click-lock and Lock-lock. The most simple are plates for adhesive mounting. They have the following advantages: do not require perfect and low cost. In addition, the adhesive ensures the tightness of the joints and eliminates the effect of squeaking when walking on the floor. The main disadvantages are the non-separability of the structure, which excludes the repair of a separate section; increase in the complexity of laying and the duration of work due to the drying period.

Lock joints are made directly at the ends of the slabs and do not require adhesive bonding, which increases the laying performance. The lock-lock system (thorn-groove) is simpler and somewhat cheaper than the second type, but the tiles at the junction can diverge under load, which causes gaps. The Click lock is a more complex connection (latch) and ensures secure fixation of the tiles to each other, but has the main drawback - it requires perfect preparation of the subfloor; and also such a tile is the most expensive.

What is the asking price?

The laminate is realized in wide assortment and the most various color for every taste. Some brands can be recommended: domestic manufacturers - Kronospan, Kronostar, Sinteros; foreign manufacturers - Classen (Germany), Praktik (China), QuickSter (Belgium), Kronotex (Germany), Alloc (Belgium), Egger, Meister (Germany), Pergo (Sweden), Maxwood (Germany). Prices mainly depend on the strength class and thickness of the board. For example, the recommended Kronospan brand 7 mm thick laminate has the following cost: class 31 - 313-319 rubles / m², class 32 - 347 rubles / m², class 33 - 700 rubles / m². The change in cost by tile thickness can be shown at average prices: 6-7 mm - 300-500 rubles / m² (depending on the strength class), 8 mm - 500-800 rubles / m², 9-10 mm - 800-1000 rubles / m², 12 mm - 1000-1500 rubles / m².

Substrate selection

Substrate for laminate flooring plays the role thermal insulation, sound insulation, waterproofing, shock-absorbing element. Most often, it is made of polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam and cork.

1. Polyethylene foam. The simplest and cheapest substrate is made from rolled polyethylene foam. Most often, such material will not have to bear additional costs, as it is applied to the laminate as an application. The main advantages are good thermal insulation and waterproofing. Disadvantage - low durability, insufficient depreciation properties; during operation, it quickly loses its shape and begins to crumble. In terms of cost, polyethylene foam films are much more economical than other substrates. So, a film with an area of ​​​​1 m² with a thickness of 5 mm will cost, on average, 26 rubles, a thickness of 10 mm - 60 rubles.
2. Cork film. The cork film underlay has excellent sound and heat insulation, high damping characteristics, is durable, and evens out subfloor irregularities well. Disadvantages - low moisture resistance, which limits the use in the bathroom; and high price. The cheapest films cost 350 rubles / m² without a base (2 mm thick) and 750 rubles / m² with a base; and films of the famous companies Granorte, Wicanders - more than 1020 rubles / m².
3. Styrofoam. Expanded polystyrene film with a layer of foil is the most common substrate option. At a price, it occupies an intermediate position between previous materials, but it has high durability and good waterproofing properties, while also possessing positive properties other substrates. The main disadvantage is the lower resistance to bursting compared to cork film. The average cost of a film (type PPT), depending on the thickness, ranges from 130 (2 mm) to 400 (10 mm) rubles / m².

How to lay laminate flooring

Installation includes next steps: marking the area, laying the substrate, laying the laminate and finishing activities.

Required tool

To lay a laminate, you will need the following tool:

• electric jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting laminate;
• scissors for cutting the substrate;
• brush for applying glue;
• clamp or vise for fixing tiles when cutting;
• mallet for fitting plates;
• tape measure and metal ruler for marking;
• level to control horizontality.

Budgeting

The manufacture of flooring should begin with the calculation of the required amount of materials and the preparation of a cost estimate. First of all, you need to calculate amount of laminate, which is estimated by area. The consumption of laminate tiles, on average, is equal to the area of ​​​​the floor of the room with the addition of waste of about 7%. The substrate should be selected with the width of the roll, a multiple of the width of the room - then its overrun will not exceed 5% of the area of ​​the room.

For example, it is necessary to lay the floor in a 4x6 m room, i.e. 24 m². Choose for the substrate polystyrene foam at a price of 320 rubles / m². Film consumption - 24x1.05 = 25.2 m². Cost - 320x25.2 = 8064 rubles. Laminate - class 32 with a thickness of 7 mm at a price of 347 rubles / m². Laminate consumption - 24x1.07 \u003d 25.7 m². Cost - 347x25.7 \u003d 8918 rubles. Thus, the total costs will be about 17 thousand rubles. The average time that will have to be spent on cutting and installing the coating is about 8 hours. If you still want to invite a craftsman to carry out work, then you need to prepare an additional 250 rubles per 1 m² of coating (average cost of work); those. to the room taken as an example, savings will be at least 6 thousand rubles

Video instruction

If, when replacing the flooring, your choice was a laminate, we recommend that you read this article.

Choosing laminate flooring for your home is an excellent and practical solution.

What can be laminated on?

Laminate flooring has its own characteristics:

• It is permissible to lay laminate on linoleum provided that the linoleum coating does not have any damage and swelling.
• It is acceptable to lay laminate on a wooden floor if the floor surface is smooth and even.
• When laying laminate in the kitchen, one must take into account such factors as the use of water and the possibility of it getting on the laminate. For the kitchen, you can choose a special moisture or waterproof laminate, but you should keep in mind that this type of laminate is in a higher price category. Alternatively, you can combine the floors, and lay out floor tiles in the headset area.
• Under the laminate, you can safely equip a warm floor, since the temperature of its heating elements is much lower than the temperature that can somehow damage the laminate.
• If during the operation the parquet has lost its original appearance, then it is also possible to mount a laminate coating on it.
• Laying the laminate should be carried out only on a flat floor, the permissible difference in floor height is 2 mm. Otherwise, during operation, the laminate is deformed.
• Laminated fiberboard and chipboard under the laminate will provide additional sound insulation.

Types and methods of laying

It is necessary to start laying laminate on a wooden floor only after all the floorboards of the wooden floor have been checked and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If a this work not carried out, then loose floorboards will lead to deformation of the laminate.

Further, waterproofing is equipped, for this an ordinary plastic film can be used (it must be laid with an overlap). The next layer is the substrate. After the substrate is laid, you can proceed directly to the laminate flooring. The laminate is laid strictly perpendicular to the floorboards, this allows you to distribute the load on the floor.

Before carrying out installation work on laying the flooring in the apartment, the brought laminate must lie down and undergo adaptation to the temperature and humidity of the air in the room (at least two days).

In order for the laminate to be qualitatively laid on linoleum, the old coating must be intact, without defects, dry and clean. Before laying the laminate, a substrate is preliminarily laid on the surface of the linoleum. Next, the laminated panels themselves are laid.

To level the concrete floor for laying the laminate, use either cement screed, or as an alternative self-leveling floors. The bed substrate on the concrete floor under the laminate additionally performs the function of a vapor barrier.

The laminate can be with the 2nd and 4-sided chamfer. The presence of a chamfer on the laminate gives its appearance an additional similarity with the structure of natural wood. Laying bevelled laminate is no different from laying conventional laminate.

If it is planned to lay the laminate on plywood, then it is carefully sanded beforehand to eliminate differences in the joints and cleaned of dust.

If the laminate is laid on the screed, then it is checked for moisture levels. To do this, a piece of ordinary plastic film is laid on the screed and the edges are pressed tightly. If no condensation appears on the film within 3-4 days, then you can lay the laminate.

The width of the laminated panel can vary from 90 mm (simulating parquet) to 330 mm (simulating tiles). Laying a wide laminate is no different from laying a standard laminate.

Laminate floor technology

Laminate installation requires strict adherence to the stages:

1. The floor surface must be flat, free from dirt and dry;
2. Laying the laminate starts from the back of the room and is carried out towards the doors, a small space of 8-10 mm is necessarily left between the wall and the first row of panels (to ensure some mobility of the floors);
3. Laminate panels are designed in such a way that when assembling the flooring, the spike of one panel goes into the groove of the other, then with the help of a hammer they fit tightly to each other;
4. The second row of laminated panels is laid relative to the first row in a checkerboard pattern with the connecting seams offset by 40-50 cm. The subsequent rows are laid in the same way;
5. Laminate is recommended to be laid from the window, perpendicular to the light source;
6. Laying the laminate diagonally follows from the widest point in the room, moving towards one of the corners. Placing and fixing between a laminated panels is no different from the standard. Particular attention should be paid to cutting panels in the corners;
7. Laying laminate near the doors can be done either by cutting the laminated panel itself, or by sawing the door frame itself. The laminated panel must go under door frame 5-10 mm, but do not rest against the wall.

How to lay underlayment under laminate flooring?

To ensure a long service life of the laminate, it is necessary to have a substrate under it, which will not allow the floor covering to sag and deform.

There are several types of substrates:

• isolon (foamed polyethylene) - has good sound insulation, is not afraid of moisture, but it sags under load, and is not a very good shock absorber (it is laid with the smooth side up);
• the cork substrate has high sound and heat insulation, is an excellent shock absorber (thickness should not exceed 4 mm);
• Fiberboard has good thermal insulation, but is afraid of high humidity;
• polystyrene is an inexpensive option for the substrate; it spreads with the foil side to the laminate.

To level the floor and increase its rigidity, plywood can be used as a substrate. The thickness of the plywood sheet must be at least 10 mm. Plywood sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern.

Expanded polystyrene is suitable as a substrate for a concrete floor (laying in two layers is recommended). If the concrete base is perfectly even, then you can do without a substrate, limiting yourself to ordinary plastic wrap.

How to lay skirting boards on laminate?

Installing a skirting board allows you to decorate the joints between the wall and the floor, and gives the flooring a complete look.

The plinth can be made of wood or plastic. Depending on the material of manufacture, the plinth has features of fixing on the laminate.

1. Wooden plinth is attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws, or glued with glue. The joints between the individual elements, as well as the caps of the fasteners, are puttied and painted over.
2. The plastic plinth is applied and snapped into special latches, pre-mounted on the wall. The plastic plinth has a hidden cable channel that allows you to conduct wiring under the plinth. The installation of a plastic skirting board is facilitated by the use of additional fittings (external and internal corners, special plastic overlays for joints).

Video

Watch the video instruction for laying the substrate and laminate:

The popularity of laminate flooring last years is gaining momentum and it is not surprising. Indeed, outwardly, it is practically indistinguishable from such a chic, but expensive parquet, moreover, it has much greater wear resistance, does not require special care during operation, and installation work on laying laminated panels, or, if necessary, replacing one of them, does not represent an increased difficulties. Properly selected and laid laminate flooring will serve you long years.

Laminate is a coating designed for laying out the surface of the floor. It is made from high-density fiberboard (MDF) material. Laminate has rightly earned the title of the most popular flooring. The laminate is laid out in small tiles, each tile consists of several layers - this ensures wear resistance, moisture resistance and aesthetic appearance this coverage. And if repairs are planned in the house with flooring, it would be useful to read the step-by-step instructions on how to lay the laminate with your own hands in order to do the work yourself.

Necessary materials and tools for work

Laying laminate flooring involves the following materials and tools:

• primer for leveling the floor surface;
• the laminate itself;
• polyethylene and polyethylene film;
• plinth;
• glue;
• markers;
• measuring tape;
• jackhammer;
• building corner (90 degrees);
• hacksaw;
• dies (wedges).

How to properly install laminate?

After preparation necessary materials and fixtures, you must select the layout and calculate the material consumption depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the laminate will be laid. To ensure the reliability of the coating, it is recommended to lay the laminate tiles apart - one row is laid out, the first tile of the next row should be cut in half - from the side, the layout should resemble the layout of a brick wall.

Laying the laminate in the standard way should be carried out on the basis of: add 10 percent of the sum of the product to the product of length and width - for a room of 4 meters by 5 meters, the material consumption will eventually be equal to: (4x5) + (4x5) / 10 \u003d 22 square meters. These 2 square meters make up for the overrun of the laminate, which will need to be cut.

Laying laminate flooring step by step

The correct layout of the laminate is carried out in stages:

1. Laminate preparation. Before coating, the laminate must lie down in the room where the laying will be carried out for 2 days in order for the laminate to adapt to the climate of the room.
2. Floor preparation for coating. Primer. The floor must be free of debris and dust before coating. If the old floor is uneven, you need it with the help of a special building compound. If there are any defects in the old floor (cracks, chips, pits), it must be dismantled and only after that the surface should be cleaned and the floor should be further filled with a self-leveling compound. After the composition has completely hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the direct laying of the laminate.
3. Laying out a moisture-proof film. Laying should be carried out from the window. A moisture-proof film is necessary when laying a laminate on a concrete base - concrete tends to absorb moisture from the air, which can lead to the fragility of the laminate coating. The film must be spread with an overlap (20-30 cm) and the joints must be fixed with construction tape.
4. Substrate lining. After laying the film, you can proceed to laying out the substrate under the laminate. Its use provides sound insulation, elimination of the risk of condensation under the laminate, cushioning of the surface and ensuring a long service life of the laminate floor. How to lay the underlayment under the laminate? It is recommended to lay it out in parts together with laminate tiles - this will prevent possible deformation of the substrate.
5. Laminate lining. Next, you can lay out the laminate.

How to lay laminate with your own hands

The laying of the laminate itself includes several stages:

1. To ensure gaps between the laminate and all kinds of pipes, walls, doorways and corners at the joints of the laminate with these objects, it is necessary to install wedges.
2. The first row of tiles is laid out joint-to-joint along the wall, the last tile must be cut in half, the length of the cut part should be less than 30 centimeters.
3. The laying out of the second row must begin with the trimmed tiles of the first row. Laminated panels of all rows must be firmly interlocked. The clutch is accompanied by a characteristic click. To install the last tile of each row, a clamp should be used - it will provide a dense coating without undocking.
4. The trimmed parts of the laminate are well suited to fill the resulting "gaps" in the coating.
5. To join the laminate and other coatings, special thresholds are used - they are attached with dowels.
6. After laying out the laminate, you should proceed with the installation of the plinth - it is fastened with screws and an electric drill.

How to install laminate flooring on wood floors

If the old floor consists of boards, then the question arises: is it possible and how to lay a laminate on a wooden floor? First you need to assess its condition - worn boards should be replaced, and if the entire surface of the floor is uneven, then laying the laminate is excluded until the floor is leveled or disassembled to the support boards and laid flat. The wooden floor before laying the laminate must be perfectly clean - the presence of small debris and grains of sand is excluded. If you put a laminate on such a floor, then when walking it will make an unpleasant sound. A smooth wooden floor does not require additional laying of a plastic film.

How to install laminate flooring on concrete floor

The floor made of concrete as the basis for laying out the laminate must be flat and clean. A concrete floor requires absolute waterproofing - for a long service life of a laminate coating, such a floor must be insulated with building polyethylene.

Can laminate flooring be installed on linoleum?

Laying laminate over old linoleum is possible, but only if the old coating lies flat, does not have sharp changes in height, holes, etc. Also, linoleum must be dry, as the laminate is very sensitive to moisture.

Wooden materials retain their leading positions in sales rankings floor coverings. At the same time, the competition between classic parquet and ordinary boards has not been relevant for a long time - multilayer laminated panels (lamellas), which are distinguished by practicality and versatility, have come to the fore. Proper installation contributes to the durability of the flooring, which also does not lose its aesthetic properties during operation. How to lay laminate flooring without the help of specialists? There is nothing complicated in this, but it is important to understand that there are many small technological nuances and tricks that will have a significant impact after laying the coating.

What are the pros and cons of laminate flooring?

If we compare the lamellas with a solid board or typesetting elements for laying parquet, then two shortcomings of this material will immediately come to light. Firstly, this is an obvious loss in environmental cleanliness. In the manufacturing process of almost all types of multilayer panels, chemical binders are used, although they do not cause serious harm to human health. Secondly, many refuse laminate due to the loss of natural wood texture during processing - at least it is distorted due to the application of protective films to the surface of the panels. What justifies the use of laminate?

To strengths This coverage just refers to the installation. How to properly and independently lay the laminate for many years? To do this, it is necessary to observe the geometry of the joints, correctly fitting the elements to each other - this is the basic law of the installation of lamellas, which does not require the connection of complex equipment. Another advantage is versatility in terms of protection. Of course, like any wood material, lamellas have their limitations, but they are much less than in the case of the same parquet or board. The presence of multilayer protective coatings initially minimizes the harmful effects of external negative factors. With design properties, too, not everything is clear. Indeed, the laminate cannot fully boast of natural wood patterns, but it opens up endless possibilities for imitating the texture of any exotic species.

Features of installing laminate

For a number of floor coverings, the technology of the so-called floating laying is used. This means that the flooring is formed without a tight binding to the rough surface. That is, the use of hardware, adhesives and other methods of rigid fastening is excluded. On what does the coating rest if there is no direct connection with the floor?

The very configuration of modern lamellas provides for the presence of locking fastening mechanisms. The system of grooves and ridges ensures the stability of the coating. But you should immediately prepare for one unpleasant operational effect. Walking on a floating floor is accompanied by knocks, so a special underlay or base with a damping coating is required - for example, in the form of linoleum. But even in this case there are some nuances of the laminate device. How to properly lay multilayer panels on linoleum so that they do not deform on a soft base? Such installation is, in principle, allowed only if the rough flooring has no more than 2% moisture content, and the height differences are less than 3 mm. Then you can use the substrate, but always made of solid materials. However, there will be a separate discussion about the rules for choosing a damping base.

In what rooms should laminate be used?

The coverage is designed for home use. This is not porcelain stoneware, so laminate is not recommended for high traffic areas. The boundary zone in terms of laying tolerance usually runs through rooms with a high humidity coefficient - bathrooms, laundries, kitchens, etc. How to lay laminate flooring in such conditions? To begin with, you should focus on lamella models characterized by resistance to biological pollution and the presence of moisture-repellent properties. It is in the bathrooms that it is desirable to use panels with oil protective coatings, and not with varnished ones - this will provide an anti-slip effect. As for the laying itself, this is just the case when it makes sense to abandon the floating floor system and apply the adhesive fixation method. At the same time, seams and gaps are minimized by sealing mass based on sealing polymers.

Preparing the floor for installation

Laminate is very demanding on the state of the rough base, so you should prepare for a thorough preparation of the surface for laying. It should be free from irregularities, significant height differences, cracks, flimsy areas and other defects. The best option for the base - a new screed with a hard self-leveling coating. But what is the right way to install laminate and underlay on old decorative flooring? We can talk about tiles, the already mentioned linoleum or wooden surfaces. Theoretically, any of these coatings as such does not prohibit laying a laminate on top. However, this can be done only if there are no serious damages, faults and signs of destruction. For example, weak or rotting boards must be replaced, cracks in the concrete base are carefully primed and puttied, and fragments of chipped tiles are completely removed, followed by sealing with cement mortar.

Optimum underlay options

Even if the preparation of the floor does not bring it to an optimal state, it does not matter. Minor flaws are eliminated by the substrate layer, which is also intended for leveling, sound absorption and imparting insulating properties to the carrier base. So, for a laminate, you should choose the following types of floor substrate:

• Polyethylene foam film. The simplest option, which is not intended to hide significant surface defects, but is quite suitable as a cheap waterproofing.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. Plates with a thickness of about 4-6 mm, which can eliminate small irregularities and provide acceptable sound absorption. How to properly lay laminate on an expanded polystyrene substrate to achieve the maximum insulating effect? To increase the insulating function, an adhesive solution should be used for laying with careful sealing of the joints - both between the panels and at the points of convergence with the wall.
• Corrugated cardboard. Also an inexpensive version of the substrate, which is often used as a shock absorber. It is hardly possible to get rid of a knock when walking with such a flooring, but the corrugated board smooths out small irregularities well without deforming the structure of the laminate. Plus, you can add the regulation of the level of humidity under the slats.
• Cork panels. According to the combination of characteristics, the most advantageous material for the substrate. Using cork, you can eliminate noticeable surface defects and protect the coating with back side from dampness. Also, the sound insulation of this material is the most effective, but, for the price, this is the least attractive option.

Substrate laying instructions

Substrate mounting technologies vary depending on the material. Approaches to the device of film, roll and panel rigid products are fundamentally different. For example, polyethylene is laid in strips with 20 cm overlaps, and the edges are glued with special tapes. A separate question concerns how to properly lay the corrugated substrate under the laminate? Rough surfaces with shock-absorbing and ribbed coatings always face the rough substrate. If the film has a foil protection (for example, made of aluminum), then this side should be directed upwards to the lamellas.

Roll materials also overlap and are fixed adhesive compositions. But in this case, it is important to correctly fold along the edges. Approximately 5-10 cm of material should go to the wall, where the fastening will be provided with self-adhesive tapes.

Solid substrates are laid in a joint. It is advisable to place the panels at a 45-degree angle towards the future laying of the lamellas. This discrepancy in positions will have a positive effect on the stability and strength of the coating. But how to put cork backing under the laminate, so that it does not deform during operation? To do this, it is necessary to maintain small gaps of 2-3 mm along the edges of the laying. This is a mandatory margin in case of “spreading” of the cork structure, which compensates for the internal stress of the substrate and prevents the laminate from swelling.

Can laminate flooring be installed without underlayment?

On the market you can find special series of lamellas, in the structure of which there is already a noise-absorbing layer. Such models can be laid without insulating substrates. But this only applies to cases where draft base has no physical defects in the form of irregularities. Still, to smooth surfaces, it is worth using hard materials and not necessarily in the form of a cork. If the tasks of increasing noise reduction and, in principle, isolation are absent, then ordinary chipboards can be used. For example, how to properly lay plywood for laying laminate flooring?

Optimal - create a crate under the carrier base from wooden slats and metal profiles. Since the crate raises the floor height by 5-10 cm, many refuse this option. An alternative way of laying plywood is gluing. But not on ordinary building glue, but on a bitumen-polymer solution. It is prepared using special mixtures, after which it is heated gas burner and lay the slabs, previously sawn into squares.

Laminate installation instructions

Before mounting the panel, it is desirable to withstand two days at room temperature in a dry room. This will allow the structure to better adapt to operating conditions. How to lay the laminate in the first rows? The most important stage, at which the configuration of the location of the lamellae is set. First, the panels should be laid parallel to the rays of light falling from the window. This will make the seams and joints visually less noticeable. Secondly, small indents from walls, structures and all kinds of fixed objects with a size of about 5-7 mm are immediately provided. Temporary wedges are driven into these gaps in order to save expansion joints in case of expansion of the material.

Starting from the first row, each subsequent laminate board is attached to the previous one through a butt-groove key joint. Metal clamps are nailed along the perimeter of the free edges, which will not allow the flooring to disperse. Special attention is given to complex areas with transitions in the layout. For example, how to do it right In such areas, removable or stationary elements in the form of thresholds and skirting boards are used. They share the laminate and finishing material another room. There are leveling, single-level, corner and edge thresholds, which are selected for a specific configuration of panel placement.

How to install vinyl laminate?

A feature of vinyl coatings is elasticity, water resistance and ease of processing. Unlike conventional panels, this laminate can be cut with construction knives, fitting the pieces to any shape of the job site. As for installation, glue is used instead of a key connection. Moreover, it is not necessary to use separate compositions - you can limit yourself to self-adhesive surfaces. But how to lay the laminate in the room yourself if the rough flooring is represented by an uneven rigid base? Would a backing help in this case? The disadvantages of the base surface are eliminated in the same way as in the case of wood laminate. However, the substrate is selected medium hardness. It could be either roll material, or soft cork with increased damping effect.

How to lay the infrared film under the laminate?

The idea of ​​combining an underfloor heating system and laminated panels is increasingly being implemented in private homes. Moreover, it is desirable to use infrared film, and not water systems with electric mats. This choice is associated with low heat transfer rates, which does not harmful influence on wood decorative material. How to lay the infrared film under the laminate? For IR coating as such, a strong base and double-sided isolation is essential. In the lower part, for example, on a flat screed, you can lay a foil substrate facing heating elements. A heat-resistant thin substrate is laid on top. The most important thing is not to forget about the output of the terminals for switching the IR film with a thermal sensor. To do this, a groove and a channel for cable entry are cut in the substrate.

Laminate care

The service life of the coating will be affected not only by the quality of installation, but also by external factors of influence with the nature of the service. Initially, direct thermal effects on the material from climate equipment, various humidifiers and heaters should be prevented. But how to lay the laminate correctly if there is no way to eliminate the impact from radiators, for example? In this case, either reliable rear thermal insulation, or the initial choice of a lamella model that is not sensitive to temperature fluctuations, will help. With regard to care measures, it is recommended to wash the coating moistened with clean water cloth with a little cleaning agent. Today, special detergent compositions for laminate with an antistatic effect are produced. For the restoration of lamellas, it is better to use acrylic lubricants. They carefully eliminate small cuts and crevices, preventing further destruction of the structure.

Conclusion

The range of laminated panels is quite wide and even the process of formation of individual groups of this material is observed. Accordingly, the rules for laying individual categories of lamellae are also changing. Recommendations from major manufacturers can be used as universal rules for the installation of such coatings. For example, how to properly lay Tarkett laminate? This manufacturer sets standards both for the choice of substrate and for microclimatic conditions for installation. In the first case, Tarkoflex branded soundproofing underlay is recommended, and the temperature and humidity parameters should correspond to the range of 18-24 ºС with a moisture coefficient of 40-70%. This recommendation can be applied to most household laminate models with a strength class of 32 and a thickness of up to 10 mm.

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