Laying paving slabs with your own hands step by step instructions. How to lay paving slabs - a complete guide

FORUMHOUSE users are well aware that life outside the city is not only a pleasant pastime in a hammock in the garden, but also constant household chores. Everyone equips their "ten acres" to their liking. And if the creation of landscape design is a matter of personal preference, then garden paths are simply vital on any personal plot and at any cottage. Indeed, in addition to purely decorative purposes, it is the paths that allow us to move freely around the site, regardless of the season.

Therefore, for paving materials garden paths increased requirements are imposed, such as wear resistance, safety, environmental friendliness and presentable appearance. All these requirements are met by paving slabs. Expert advice and step-by-step instructions from users of our forum in this article will help you lay tiles for the path in the country on your own!

How to make a tile walkway. Planning.

Any construction should begin with careful planning of all works. Styling will not be an exception paving slabs. First of all, you should pay attention to the following points:

The total number of tracks and their location on the site. Tiles for the path in the garden.

The key rule can be formulated as follows: "The central path in the garden should lead from the entrance to the site to the house." If there is a garage, a workshop or a gazebo on the site, then you should put paths to them. Thus, you can ensure the zoning of the site, ensuring unhindered access to each building.

Pavement Width

The path leading to the house should be so wide that two adults walking towards each other could easily pass each other on it. On average, this value is from 1 to 1.5 meters.

Paths that are not used so often and lead to flower beds or beds can be made 0.5 to 0.8 meters wide.

It should also be clearly defined functional purpose tracks.

Denis Bogdanov Landscape improvement specialist, nickname on the forum Denis Vlad-ch

- For myself, I clearly divide the paths into decorative, leading to the gazebo, and functional, which are under heavy load and lead to the house or garage.

Paths that are under heavy load require more careful preparation of the base than those tracks that are used from time to time.

Denis Vlad-ch

It is also necessary to consider how you will care for the garden path in winter and autumn.

Unlike a bulk path, paving slabs are easier to care for. When removing snow and fallen leaves, you will not throw rubble aside.

The second most important, after functionality, characteristic of a garden paving path is how pleasant it is to walk on it. And in order to understand this, you can use the secret of landscape designers.

Vladimir Petriv Director of Petriv Landscape Design

I always advise you to first walk along the pre-marked paths and make sure that everything is comfortable, and it is convenient for everyone in the household to move along them. I can say that after such a “walk”, you almost always have to make adjustments to the original plan for marking the track.

In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, you must choose the thickness of the tiles. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

How to make a sidewalk: step-by-step instruction

In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, it is necessary to choose the thickness of the paving slabs. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

Konstantin MerzlyakovExpert of the plant "Factory GOTIKA", Moscow:

For garden paths and the adjacent territory, where passenger vehicles do not drive, the paving slabs of the path can be no thicker than 40-50 mm. And for the path that provides travel passenger car and parking, the thickness of the tiles must be at least 60 mm.

Vladimir Petriv:

The initial preparation for laying garden paths is usually associated with excavation, and this should be linked to the geoplastics of your site. With large elevation differences, slopes, etc., it will be necessary to move and remove large masses of land - a very costly event that requires the use of construction equipment

Geoplastics is the artificial formation of the relief and architecture of the site.

How to lay a tile garden path. Recommendations of experts.

Paving slabs are an environmentally friendly and durable coating for a garden path. And its durability and beauty, first of all, will depend on the quality of paving slabs and compliance with the laying technology. Tiles on the tracks can be done with your own hands.

Konstantin Merzlyakov

Modern paving slabs are made of concrete. The shape of the tile can be absolutely any, which allows you to successfully fit garden paths into landscape design any area.

The service life of vibropressed concrete tiles is on average 15 years, provided proper preparation grounds.

And, like any coating, paving slabs require care during operation (cleaning, the use of water-repellent coatings, etc.).

The first stage of preparatory work for laying paving slabs is the breakdown of the contour of the area to be laid and the setting of control "beacons". The corners of the territory, binding to the available areas, slopes are taken into account. After the work has been done on the layout of the contour, they begin to prepare the base, which includes the following types of work: layout, installation of the carrier layer, installation of borders and the installation of a leveling sand layer under the tile.

Sidewalk paths with their own hands

We make a path from paving slabs in the following step-by-step sequence:

Earthen boxes are torn off under the side stone;
A side stone is installed around the perimeter of the site. The curb stone is necessary for a strong fixation of the paving slab web;
The underlying layer is poured;
The foundation is being laid;
The tile covering is laid;
The tile joints are filled.

It is also necessary to remember that when laying tiles, the following standards should be followed.

Alexander LoginovTechnical director of the company TD BRAER

Work on the installation of pavement should be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.06.03-85 "Motorways" and SNiP III-10-75 "Improvement of territories".

And the independent laying process can be divided into a number of successive stages.

Planning and designing a garden path. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site. Then develop the layout of garden paths, choose the design and pattern of the tile layout;
Calculation of the cost of the necessary materials;
Carrying out work on laying a garden path.

Tiled garden paths.

Let's consider each of the points in more detail.

Alexander Loginov:

The choice of tile laying method depends on the state of the country soil and the subsequent operating conditions of the site: the blind area of the building, the pedestrian zone, the area for driving and parking cars, etc.

It should be remembered that the result of your work, first of all, will depend on the thoroughness of the preliminary marking and preparation of the base for laying tiles.

Planning includes the following:

draw the layout of the area to be paved;
measure the area in order to apply dimensions to the plan;
based on the above points, calculate the required number of tiles for laying, as well as the amount of materials for preparing the base of the track from tiles with a border.

After developing a plan, they begin marking future tracks.

Alexander Loginov

First of all, determine the direction of the water flow. Please note that water should go along the blind area of the building or along the path to drainage wells or lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than 0.5%, that is, 5 mm per meter.

The direction of the slope must be such that water flows from the paving into the drainage systems or onto the lawn, but not towards the building!

After the place for laying the tiles is determined, the boundaries of the track are marked. To do this, pegs are driven in along the boundaries of the site, along which a cord or fishing line is pulled. After that, you can start excavating the soil, adhering to the following recommendations:

Excavation is carried out so that after laying the front surface of the tile reaches the specified level of your site;
The platform formed after excavation is leveled and rammed;
If the soil is soft, it must be moistened (spill with water from a hose) and compacted.

Vladimir Petriv

Drainage and drainage into a stormwater or storage well must be thought out and installed at the preparatory stage of laying garden paths.

Tiling garden path

Konstantin Merzlyakov

When laying paving slabs on a complex curved surface and with a large difference in height, it is necessary, when planning, to lay a larger percentage on the consumption of tiles (cutting, fitting, etc.).

Pavement base preparation

The most important step in laying paving slabs is the preparation of the base. The right foundation will not allow the track or platform to “sag”, ensuring their longevity. It should be borne in mind that, despite the tight seams between the tiles, the base is still saturated with water. Therefore, a permeable drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is needed at the base. Then part of the water from the surface will be diverted through the paving stones and the carrier layer into the soil.

How to make paths from tiles.

It is also important to understand what layers the correct version of the tile base pie consists of.

Alexander Mishin Expert of Wienerberger Brick

The cake consists of several layers: a natural soil base, a subbase, an underlying layer, a “bed” and, in fact, a “sidewalk”.

"Bed" is a layer of sand or fine gravel. The subbase is a bulk layer of soil, and the underlying layer consists of gravel or crushed stone.

Alexander Mishin

The thickness of the "bed" for any type of soil base is on average 3-5 cm. The thickness of the remaining layers should be formed based on such indicators of the soil base as moisture, density and composition.

Alexander Loginov

For the main carrier layer, a frost-resistant, homogeneous material (crushed stone, gravel) is used. This material must be laid evenly in height and with the required slopes.

To build an ordinary pedestrian country path, it will be necessary to make a carrier layer 10-20 cm thick. When arranging platforms for driving and parking cars, a layer of 20-30 cm is used. Under heavy loads, the carrier layer is increased and placed in 2-3 layers, each layer is compacted with a vibrating plate or vibrating roller.

As mentioned above, the method of preparing the base largely depends on the expected load on the garden path. It is also necessary to take into account the bearing capacity of the soil.

Our forum user Oleg Novitsky advises how to build a pavement path from tiles with difficult soil: if there is so-called heavy or clay soil under the base, or you have a swampy summer cottage, then the thickness of the crushed stone base must be made at least 10 cm.

Then the geotextile is laid.

Geotextiles pass water well and do not allow materials to mix (mixing of materials leads to the formation of voids and dips in the coatings).

Alexander Mishin

The use of geotextiles is appropriate when the natural soil base is located in a swampy area and has high humidity. A layer of geotextile is arranged over a natural soil base.

The next layer of our “pie” is sifting on a geotextile base.

Oleg Novitsky

We fill the area with screenings (or sand). The screening layer must be at least 10 cm. This layer must be very carefully compacted. At this stage, it is necessary to accurately level the entire base for laying using a rule or other tool.

Screening has a not very good property - caking. This means that over time the base becomes almost monolithic, and then, due to its low strength, it cracks, and cracks and shells form in the coating. To avoid such a nuisance, use a vibrating tool for compaction and tamping and do not carry out work in rainy weather. The best screening for such work is dry.

Then we proceed to create the foundation level, guided by the following algorithm:

The boundaries and center lines of the site are marked with a rope;

Loose sand can be leveled just below the edges of the curb;

We compact the resulting pillow with a vibrating plate.

Oleg Novitsky

An electric or gasoline vibratory rammer with a rubber sole is well suited for compacting a layer of sand. Using it, you can not only prepare a gravel-sand cushion with high quality, but also avoid further subsidence and soil collapse under the laid tiles.

Alexander Loginov

It must be remembered that all layers of the base are poured, leveled and compacted, taking into account a 0.5% slope!

The preparatory stage is completed by backfilling with river sand or a cement-sand mixture. To do this, a layer of clay-free river sand 1-2 cm thick is poured onto the base without compaction, the layer must be loose.

CPS (cement-sand mixture) is taken in a ratio of 1:8-1:10, because cement is needed to bind the sand so that it is washed out with water.

Alexander Mishin

The use of a cement-sand mixture as a "bed" is justified only if heavy traffic is expected on the surface of the tile. The garage and pedestrian zone of a private house does not belong here, because. traffic and load are not so intense here.

Paving slabs

In order for the garden path to be durable, and the tiles on it lie evenly, its laying by the summer resident must also be divided into several successive stages.

Laying starts:

from the bottom point;
from optically important boundaries;
from conspicuous elements: a porch, the main entrance to the house;
manual laying of tiles is done diagonally away from you, so as not to disturb the prepared top layer.

Before starting the laying of the first row of tiles, in order to maintain the exact location of the joints, it is necessary to stretch the cord over the entire length and width of the object. After that, adhering to the cord, proceed with the installation.

It is recommended to check the location and straightness of the joints every three rows of laid paving slabs. Laying is carried out using a rubber mallet (mallet) with light blows on the tile. Every 3-5 sq.m of laid, but not yet compacted paving slabs, its surface is controlled using a two-meter rule or building level.

Alexander Loginov

Curb stones should be used as framing paths on a suburban area. These fences must be made before laying the outer part of the path to prevent transverse displacement and settlement of the tiles.

Along the edges of the marked area of the trail, along a stretched cord, dig a trench of small size and depth (so that the curb enters this trench to the required level). The base of the trench must be tamped, backfilled, and the curb placed on concrete.

The border can be visible or hidden - it depends on the desire. If the border is hidden, then it must be placed so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the border by the height of the chamfer.

Oleg Novitsky

To reduce the number of tiles to cut, start the longest row from the curb, laying whole tiles right up to it. The resulting voids should be exactly half of the tile. When cutting from one whole, you will get two necessary halves, and, I believe, waste can be completely avoided. This technique can be used for curly symmetrical tiles.

The biggest enemy of any paving slab is freezing water. Therefore, it is impossible to lay tiles on monolithic, waterproof bases, concrete screed. In the open air, it is forbidden to lay tiles on the mortar.

Sealing and vibrotamper

After laying the tiles, the coating is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the coating, dry, sifted clean sand is poured onto the surface in such a way that the sand is easily and densely poured into the gaps between the tiles. Scattered sand is spread evenly with a brush over the entire area and hammered into the seams, “tying” the entire coating into a single whole.

And in order to build a durable coating, when working, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

Do not lay tiles in rainy weather without a special canopy.

Do not fill the joints with a mixture of sand and cement.

If the site has a "complex", heaving soil, it must be borne in mind that its displacement can deform the tile. Then a more complex laying is carried out - with a phased preparation of a concrete pad as a base, which guarantees durability.

Thus, at self-laying garden paths, you need to take into account every little thing and carefully plan all stages of work. After all, the path to your home begins with a garden path made!

Paving slabs - reliable, quality material, which compares favorably with its direct competitors - asphalt and pavers - ease of installation, dismantling, environmental friendliness and price.

A variety of installation options and a wide range of paving slabs will allow you to design the site to your taste, fully preserving its individuality through the use of various patterns and color schemes. High-quality laying of paving slabs largely determines not only the architectural appearance of the site, but also the durability of paved surfaces. The laying technology in a small area is not particularly difficult, therefore, having familiarized yourself with the progress of work and having prepared everything necessary materials, you can safely proceed to self-laying.

What tools and materials will be needed for masonry

Trowel, metal or wooden stakes, cord, building level, rubber mallet, wooden mallet, watering hose with diffuser, rake, broom, profile, manual tamper, channel, sand, crushed stone fraction 10-20, 20-50 or gravel, cement M400, M500 or dry plaster mix, geotextiles, paving slabs for paths 50-60 mm thick, for parking lots - 70-80, curbstone.

Paving slab laying technology step by step

Planning

At this stage, you should decide on the future site for laying paving slabs with your own hands and create its drawing plan. Choose from the existing range desired views curly paving elements, we select the laying scheme and color mosaic. We apply the dimensions of the site to the created drawing plan and, based on this, calculate the required number of paving slabs and the volume of materials for the base: sand, crushed stone or gravel, cement.

Marking paths and playgrounds

With the help of a tape measure, wooden or metal pegs, a cord or construction twine, we mark the paths and the area for laying tiles. Be sure to walk around the marked area to check the convenience of location and use. We make appropriate adjustments if necessary.

Foundation preparation

It is a carefully prepared base that is a guarantee of the quality of laying paving slabs, so this stage of work should be approached with special attention. A well-made base will not allow the track or platform to sag over time, thereby ensuring durability for the coating.

First of all, we remove the old coating, if it was, and remove the sod to a depth of 15-20 cm. We make sure that there are no roots or flying seeds of plants. Although water can seep into cracks, it is still best to plan for water flow. If the soil is very clay, it is desirable to arrange drainage in the deepest part of the trench. In order for water to flow to the edges, we make transverse and longitudinal slopes. Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a liquid mortar, dry mix or sand, a crushed stone or sand cushion is always used as the base. To strengthen the base, in some cases, a concrete screed can also be made on the sand and gravel mixture.

First of all, at the same level and at the same height, we lay and compact crushed stone or gravel. On a compacted base, we construct an intermediate layer of sand, in a compacted state, the thickness of which should be 3-5 cm and be such that the paving slabs rise from the desired coating height by about 1 cm before compacting. Geotextiles can be laid between the layer of crushed stone and sand, which will provide free flow of water, but at the same time will not allow sand to wake up in a layer of rubble, making the base more durable and durable. In non-rocky soil without the arrival of vehicles, it is permissible to backfill the covered surface with slightly moistened coarse sand 10-15 cm thick, without the use of crushed stone. The layer of sand is richly wetted with water. Ramming on a sunny day is done after about two to three hours, and on a cloudy day the next day.

As the top laying layer, you can use a ready-made dry mix or a self-prepared cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. We fill the mixture with a layer of 3-4 cm. To make it easier to maintain the same thickness throughout the area, you can use tube guides. With a rake, evenly distribute the mixture over the marked area. We make a screed with a channel to a flat surface.

Laying tiles

Tiles should be laid away from you so as not to disturb the prepared surface. Laying should preferably be done diagonally, laying each new tile in such a way that it adjoins the previous one as closely as possible, which will help to avoid increasing the thickness of the joints. A gap between the tiles of 1-2 mm for subsequent filling with a dry mix or sand is quite enough to create a durable and reliable coating. We tamp the laid tile wooden mallet. If the tile does not lie quite evenly, gently place sand under it with a trowel and level it again with a rammer. After laying, the protruding paving elements are leveled with a rubber mallet to the building level.

If the planned paths and platforms have uneven shapes or curly elements are used, the tiles will have to be cut, but this should only be done after laying the entire whole tile. Paving slabs are cut with a special knife or an ordinary grinder with a concrete disc. Before cutting, we must apply the tile to the future installation site and draw a line along which we will cut off the excess parts. The installation of a pedestrian curb will help to give the site or path an accurate geometric shape and evenly fill the unfinished areas with sawn-to-shape tiles. To install a curb along the edges of a tiled platform along a stretched cord, we dig a trench of the required size and depth so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the curb by the height of the chamfer. We expose the border to the liquid solution M100. We spill the sides of the curb with a solution of M100 and fill it with sand.

Having laid the tile, we check the site for bulges and irregularities. Having eliminated the defects, we sprinkle all the seams with a dry cement-sand mixture, sweep away the excess and moisten the mixture well in the gaps from a hose with a sprayer. If the mixture in the seams has sagged a lot, pour a little more mixture into the gaps between the paving slabs. This is very important point, since sand properly distributed over the joints will take on the loads that fall on the surfaces of adjacent tiles, making the coating harder and more reliable. The sand that is used to prepare the dry mix for filling the gaps between the slabs must be clean, without organic impurities and salts that can provoke the appearance of vegetation. It is advisable to walk along the paved path no earlier than 2-3 days after laying the tiles.

Like any other coating, paving slabs require appropriate care. To make it pleasing to the eye, it should be cleaned regularly. Gray tiles are less whimsical to care for, but colored tiles will have to be washed from time to time. AT winter time metal tools cannot be used to clean snow and ice from tiles. Metal crowbars and shovels can damage the glossy surface of the tile. To prevent erosion of the tile surface, it is strictly forbidden to sprinkle the paths with salt-containing abrasive mixtures. You can replace them with clean river sand. Also, paving slabs are not friendly with varnishes, paints and other chemicals.

How to lay paving slabs: laying methods

How the paths and platforms laid out with paving slabs on the site will look depends solely on your imagination and skill, because even the same elements can be used in various variations.

It is quite possible to make a beautiful and practical track on your own if you familiarize yourself with all the nuances of this process in advance. The most widespread covering of paths and platforms — paving slabs. Properly carried out preparatory work for the installation of paving slabs - the key to a durable coating. Laying can be done by masters, as well as tiles on the sidewalk can be done independently, this will require effort and knowledge of laying patterns.

Guide: how to lay paving slabs in the country

Preparation and marking of the soil is the most creative stage, since the site must be planned in advance, but this is also the most time-consuming stage, which plays the most important role. It is necessary to mark the area in which the installation of the tiles will be done by hand.

Before laying tiles, experts recommend that you first properly prepare and mark the ground

For this you need:

Install pegs;
Pull a strong rope on them;
Regulate with them desired shape paths or playgrounds.

The next stage includes cleaning up a part of the earth at the laying site. It is necessary to dig the soil to a depth of 20 cm in order to later replace it with more durable materials that can withstand the load for a long period of time. The stage of soil preparation is completed with an ordinary rammer at the tile installation site, it can be produced by any means, the main thing is to ensure that the soil does not sink, otherwise the tile path will not last long.

High-quality laying of paving slabs in the country

Laying tiles on the ground on the site is not difficult, the main thing is to take into account some rules. The presence of drainage is necessary so that melt and rain water is efficiently and quickly drained from under the paving slabs. If it is not installed, then in winter the tile will absorb a large amount of moisture and, when frozen, will collapse. The drainage consists of the usual addition of medium-sized crushed stone, which must be poured onto the bottom of the cleaned area, well leveled and compacted with a rammer. The gravel layer must be at least 7 cm.

The border is not below the surface of the paving slabs, but does not protrude above it, which organizes the top platform of the walkway or platform. The border holds back the tiles in certain places, therefore, in order for it to form a solid fence, it is necessary to fasten it to each other with high quality.

High-quality laying of paving slabs will decorate the interior of the summer cottage

To install a border, you must:

Put slides of mortar on top of the drainage backfill;
The curb is installed;
Along the edges, a couple of pieces are enough for one border;
Next, to make everything look beautiful, you need to align the top edge.

Sand is poured onto the gravel, leveled and compacted. Care must be taken that there are no slopes. A layer of sand is required at least 9.5 cm. It should look like this: from the sand to the top of the curb there should be a distance that is equal to the thickness of the paving slabs, taking into account a couple of centimeters for the bonding material.

The installation of the tile starts from itself in order to move further along the already installed surface.

It is necessary to monitor the evenness of each row. In this case, a stretched cord is used between the curbs. Separate tiled elements should be at a distance of no more than 2 mm. If there is a need for curly elements or a round platform, you can use a grinder for these tasks, it will easily cut off all unnecessary parts from the tiles.

The optimal technology for laying paving slabs in the country

The laying technology begins with the preparation of a bonding material, which consists of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 8, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained, it is this mixture that holds the tile in position.

It is necessary to prepare materials and tools for laying in advance so as not to be distracted in the process of work

After that, you need to proceed with the direct laying of tiles in the country:

To do this, a bonding material is poured into the place of laying, it must have a layer in which, when the paving slabs are installed on the backfill, it will rise above the surface by 0.5 heights.
This filling must be evenly leveled, ramming is not required.
After that, you need to lay the first tile, which is simply installed on the surface covered with a fastening material and hammered into the cement-sand mixture with a heavy rubber mallet.
Clogged until the height is equal to the curb.
After that, the second tile is taken and installed next to it in the same way.
After installing all the tiles, the excess bonding material must be removed.

The installation is completed by filling the tile gaps with a mixture of sand and cement. From the lined surface, the mixture is gently swept with a broom into the seams. This mixture will fix the paving slabs in the installed position after the first rain, when it absorbs the liquid and hardens. New paths are watered immediately with water from a hose using a sprayer, in which case the tiles must be left alone for a couple of days.

Paving slabs are being laid different ways. On a sand bed. The tile is laid on a layer of wet sand. This path is made to decorate the garden. Water will not stagnate and will leave precisely thanks to the seams between the tiles, which are filled with sand.

Cement and wet sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:5 and evenly distributed on top of future tracks.

Due to its ease, availability and reliability, it is the most common way. Cement-sand mortar (sand, water and cement) are mixed in a concrete mixer, the resulting mass is distributed over the surface of the tile with a trowel. After that, with a mallet, the tiles need to be laid and rammed. This is the most reliable way laying, but it requires the provision of drainage.

There are several options for laying paving slabs, which you can choose at your discretion.

There are many options for laying paving slabs:

Herringbone or braided. The most common option. Tiles are laid at an angle of 90 ° or 45 °, if the elements alternate with each other, forming an interlacing, then this is a braid.
Chaotic masonry. The easiest laying method, which looks quite interesting, consists of tiles of various colors and sizes. In this method, the tiles must be laid arbitrarily.
Chess order. Two types of tiles are suitable: curly and square tiles in 2 different colors, the technique of this method is laying in alternation.
Circular pattern. Most difficult option. Circular patterns are created that look beautiful both from a height and from close range.
The combination of lawn and tiles. Most original version when lawn or flower beds are combined with paved paths or playgrounds. For this method, you can use street tiles specially designed for this type.

To properly lay the material, there are several tips. We must not forget about the slopes, it is necessary to install a small tubercle in the middle when laying with your own hands, this will allow the water to leave better, and also in the cold season it will make it easier to transfer water freezing and thaw.

It is necessary to introduce design ideas. For example, mixing sand and seeds and pouring the resulting mixture into the seams, then there will be a lawn between the tiles, which will allow the paths to stand out advantageously in the garden. Facing the parking area for cars is made on a concrete pad, road slabs must be laid out by analogy with tiles.

Laying road tiles with your own hands (video)

The issue of masonry is solved quite simply, although the process is quite laborious, but in terms of technical components it is absolutely elementary. Already after laying paving stones with an area of 1 m2, you can feel like a real professional in this business.

Introduction

The duration of operation of paved areas is affected by the quality of the material used, and the technology of laying paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or summer cottage. It is interesting to do the work independently, getting satisfaction from the result of work. Not every home owner will entrust the installation of the purchased source material to invited specialists without making sure of their professionalism. Following the step-by-step sequence of the process, and the advice of a specialist in this article, the final result will be achieved.

Material selection

It differs in thickness, color, shape and wear resistance. On the construction market, it is offered for paving products made according to various technological tasks, this is a casting or pressing method.

Vibrocast. It quickly loses its brightness and can be erased. This material is cost effective. It is laid on sections of the track with little traffic.
Vibropressed. The pressing method makes the structure dense, not amenable to wear, which guarantees quality and abrasion resistance. It is used for paving access roads to the car park.

Use the following tile thickness in millimeters:

Pedestrian paths, sidewalk and blind area from 25 to 40.

Access road to the car park from 40 to 60.

Large sizes of material are more difficult to lay. A heavy plate often has to be lifted to level it. Working with small and medium-sized items, it is easier to create an ornament.

Project

The new territory of the land will require a preliminary breakdown of the tracks. When marking, they take into account standing objects that require an approach. The shortest lines of communication are not always straight lines. They study the paths formed in a natural way, in their absence, lay new ones, leaving them uncovered for a while. After making sure that the applied scheme of movement on the ground is correct, they begin work on cleaning the soil.

general information

Soil characteristics

The structure of the earth affects the choice of material for the base under the tiles. The soil is divided into the following types:

Mobile. It requires additional concrete screed, which ensures the rigidity of the pavement structure being created.
Dense. Limited to bulk sand.

Reserve space for pipes or cable

It is advised to complete all laying of communications before paving the tracks. It is difficult to restore their level and pattern after dismantling. Pre-laying option allowed plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters, for the purpose of subsequent use.

Vegetation protection

Geotextiles are laid on the ground, for subsequent layer-by-layer embankment or concreting. It will prevent the destruction of the seams of the connection of the weed emerging from the ground.

Conditions are created for the runoff of rain, melt or irrigation water

The sand base absorbs excess moisture through the seams of the connection, which cannot be said about the concrete pad. In any of the selected options, the path is made on an elevation above ground level, sloping to one side, or oval. The value of the slope is 1 centimeter or 5 degrees per 1 meter of length. Water is absorbed by concrete slowly. The lack of flow will lead to its stagnation, and cause swelling of the layers. On the side of the curb, a hollow is laid - a ditch, for water to drain and divert it to a specially designated place.

Note

Laying tiles is possible under the following conditions:

The bulk pillow after the precipitation is dried naturally. Excess moisture is bad for the quality of the surface leveling.
Sand is used in its pure form without clay impurities.
The planned width of the track is adjusted to the size of the paving slabs. Before the formation of the embankment on the ground, a model of the ornament is created according to the developed design project.

geometric shape, laid out in a pattern. When paving, they create a semblance of a chessboard, a rhombus, a fan, a coil, a wedge leaf, a honeycomb or sleeping butterflies.
Tile having 3DEffect, or illusory three-dimensional perception of a pattern lined with flat material.
Artistic mess. It is created using different colors, shapes and sizes.

Tool

Rope or kapron thread.
Wooden stakes.
Hammer with a rubber knob (mallet).
Level.
Rammer.
Master OK.
Broom.
Bulgarian for cutting material or leveling a concrete base.
Knee pads for comfortable support of the legs during work.

Training

Using the project for the location of the tiles, and the estimated width, adjusted for the size of the material, markings are made on the ground. Stakes are driven in along the contour. On straight sections, their number is limited. For round and oval, decked areas, more markings are required. Tighten the thread using a level.

Before filling the embankment cushion, the separated area is cleaned of weeds, plant roots, stones, and the top layer of turf is removed. Loose soil is watered and compacted with a rammer.

It is allowed to use geotextiles that prevent the growth of weeds through the seams of the connection.

Laying limiters

The border is installed in the prepared trench along the contour of the proposed paving, fixed with supports, and poured with concrete. After complete solidification, the excess parts are removed, and the resulting monolithic frame is sprinkled with sand or earth. The border protects the structure from deformation of the contours, fixing the initially set parameters, and makes the drawing complete.

The material for the contour limiter is tile, stone or plastic, installed at the level of the track, or slightly higher, with a reserve for shrinkage.

From the side of the slope (slope), a water chute is laid. It is effective in the presence of a natural inclination of the track, providing a runoff.

Formation of the substrate

Depending on the wishes and type of soil, it is made different in material composition. It is proposed to consider each option in more detail.

Sandy

The artificially created bed in the ground is filled. The first layer is sand, 10 cm high, then, drainage bulk material. Use gravel or crushed stone, raise the level to 20 for sidewalks, and 40 centimeters for driveways and parking lots. Pure sand is poured onto the crushed stone, with a layer of 200 millimeters or more, depending on the thickness of the paving blank, filling the existing voids in the mass of crushed stone, and creating the basis for the tile.

The base ready for laying is leveled and water is sprayed from above. For the top layer, fine sand is used, which provides good fixation. After light wetting, allow the surface to dry, then level, maintain the angle of inclination.

sand-cement

Both components are combined into a single composition. Make a dry mortar in the following parts:

Sand - 3.
Cement - 1.

The mixture poured into the intermediate layer on the gravel is not moistened before placing the paving slabs.

Concrete

Tiled paving on a reinforced base, or an already existing one, is not desirable. Water does not seep into the ground, in the seams of the joint, the remaining moisture crystallizes in winter, increasing in volume. Given properties formed ice destroy the created structure, leading to deformation of individual sections.

Laying tiles

Keeping the direction away from you, ensure that the selected level of inclination is maintained. The master moves along the lined surface without violating the integrity of the substrate. Start laying in the following order:

Drawing in a circle from the center.
All others from the edge of the object located in the paving zone.
from the lowest point.

Leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the seams of the connection, fixing with wedges made of plastic or wood, each next laid form. The technological process provides for the deepening of the side planes by 50% of the material into the base mass of sand or its mixture. Therefore, when making a substrate, take into account the thickness of the paving slabs used for flooring.

The level of control over the angle of inclination is constantly next to the worker. A stretched transverse rope becomes a guide to height. After laying out three rows, make control measurements. Convexity of the surface is corrected with a rubber mallet or wooden block. Sand or a dry mixture is poured under the sagging tile.

On an unsecured sidewalk, they move carefully, until the surface is completely fixed. Correct protruding material by tapping from above or from the side.

Video recommendations for the correct laying of paving slabs from experts

Joint sealing

It is easy to complete the work you have begun with your own hands. Using clean sand for the first layer, for the second filling of the openings, a dry mix with cement in a ratio of 1: 1.

Strongly directing the composition with a brush into empty spaces, the density between the tiles specified by the technological conditions is provided. To verify the quality of the work performed, a visual assessment of the surface will help, after cleaning from the remnants of the solution.

Thoroughly cleaned surface from residues, it is irrigated with water. Moisture, combined with a mixture of sand and cement, will spontaneously concrete the seams. Before allowing to completely harden, the spacers are removed. After some time, the surface of the track is re-sprinkled with a dry solution, evenly distributed over the remaining openings, the residues are cleaned off, and watered with water without pressure, by spraying until puddles form on the surface.

Reading 11 min. Published on 22.10.2019

Paving slabs are a beautiful, durable and inexpensive material that can be finished adjoining territory. However, hiring installers can be expensive. Consider how paving slabs are laid on a personal plot with your own hands.

Paving slabs are a beautiful, durable and inexpensive material that can be used to decorate the local area. However, hiring installers can be expensive. That is why many people want to lay the tiles with their own hands without outside help. But not everyone knows how to do it right. Let's talk in more detail about how to lay paving slabs in the yard on your own plot.

How to choose paving slabs?

When choosing a tile, you need to pay attention to a number of important parameters. One of the most important is the thickness of the material. It will depend on it how long the paved area will last. The thickness is selected based on the operating conditions of the pavers. Here are the rules to help you determine it correctly:

for the area where people will move on foot (paths, walking areas, paths), tiles with a thickness of 50 - 60 mm will suffice;
if there will be vehicles or other heavy objects on the paved surface (for example, mobile concrete flower beds), then the thickness should be between 60 and 80 mm.

The next important point is the material from which the coating is made. It affects not only its aesthetics, appearance, but also strength, service life, and the ability to withstand significant loads during operation. Most often, paving slabs are made from:

natural stone;
clinker;
concrete;
polymer mixture;
plastic;
rubber.

The most durable and durable products made of stone and clinker. However, it must be remembered that their price is by no means democratic. Therefore, if you need to pave a large area, but you do not have significant funds, these options should be immediately dismissed. But if you need to lay out several paths or a small area, it’s worth taking a closer look at them - both stone and clinker paving stones will last almost forever.

The second place in terms of strength and durability is occupied by products made of concrete and a polymer mixture. It is not as strong as clinker and stone, but it will be enough for a dozen or two years of service. At the same time, such tiles are much cheaper. But it should be borne in mind that it is sensitive to serious loads and mechanical stress. For example, if you drop a heavy object on a stone, it will only get a scratch. But if such an object falls on a product made of concrete or a special polymer, it may crack.

Also, pavement tiles are made of plastic and a special rubber compound. It should be said right away: such paving stones have a short service life, low strength and low reliability. However, this is more than offset by the price - it costs a penny. It is worth looking in her direction if:

you are very constrained in finances;
tiles are not planned to be subjected to serious loads;
paved areas will rarely be used for their intended purpose (this, for example, is relevant for giving, where they spend only 1-2 months a year).

The last thing you need to pay attention to is the shape of the tile. Technical requirements and operating conditions here have little influence on the choice - aesthetics are at the forefront. Each of the forms of pavers has its own marking. Below is a table that shows the relationship between marking indexes and material geometry.

Some points are better explained. These are decorative tiles and paving stones for the border. The first is a separate decorative elements, which are included in the masonry of tiles of a different shape. The second is designed to create an even border on a hexagonal or figured tile (this cannot be done using ordinary concrete blocks). As for the other forms, everything is clear with them anyway.

paving slabs

Materials for laying paving slabs

The only additional material during the work is sand. It acts as the base for the tiles. If desired, you can add a little cement to it - this will make the “cushion” at the base of the paving stones more durable.

Other materials can be used instead of sand. Most often they are:

gravel;
cement mortar.

It should be noted that all materials for a concrete base can be combined with each other. There are no strict rules for such a combination - if you think that your option is more suitable for the base in a particular area, in specific operating conditions, you should use it.

If the tiles are laid on concrete mortar or sand, reinforcing elements can be used as an additional material, which give the base strength and better fix the paving stones. Most often, their role is played by a steel mesh. It is placed:

to create a stronger foundation - in the thick of mortar or sand;
for better fixation of tiles - closer to the surface of the base.

In addition, you will need a border to frame a walkway or paved area. This element of pavers is most often made of concrete. Today, there are many options for borders of various colors and geometric solutions on the market. It must be remembered that if you are laying a hexagonal or figured tile, it will not work to frame it with a traditional even border. Between it and the masonry there should be a tile for the border, which has the index D. Of course, you can consider the option of filling the gap with concrete mortar. But such a site will look completely unaesthetic.

cement mortar

List of styling tools

So, what is needed in order to lay out paving slabs on the backyard or suburban area? Here is the most complete list of tools needed to carry out such work:

Master OK;
mallet made of rubber or wood;
manual tamper;
Bulgarian;
pegs (wooden pegs are best, although metal pegs can also be used);
cord to create a straight line of tiles and borders;
building level;
a device for watering the base (a watering can or a hose can act as its role - it is important that the liquid is distributed evenly and does not lead to blurring);
rake;
broom.

Bulgarian

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands (step by step instructions)

Below is a step-by-step instruction for laying paving slabs.

Choose the layout of paving slabs - diagrams, patterns, drawings

The drawing of a tile depends only on the imagination of the one who lays it out. However, there are several well-established patterns that are used most often and which can often be found on city streets and home gardens. Here they are.

Stripe alternation. It is a simple pattern, the essence of which boils down to the fact that two thin strips of tiles of a different color cut through a path or paved area. The width of such strips is usually 2-3 bricks.
Imitation brickwork. The tile imitates the laying of large bricks. This imitation is also achieved by alternating colors. Elements of one tone form rectangles (bricks), and elements of another tone form streaks of mortar between them.
"Herringbone". In this case, the paving stones are laid according to the Soviet laying scheme. parquet board- Christmas tree.
Chess. Tiles are laid, imitating chessboard. To do this, the same alternating squares are formed from light and dark paving stones.
"Ladder". Brick tiles are laid out in such a way that they look like a ladder.
A circle. This type of masonry is one or more concentric circles of tiles of different colors. It is difficult to use it on paths, but for round or oval paved areas it is ideal.

It should be remembered that when choosing a pattern, you need to take into account the shape of the tile. For example, a wide square paving stone is not suitable for a “ladder” or “herringbone”, but for a checkerboard masonry or brick imitation it will do.

Marking for laying paving slabs

Before starting work, marking of the site is necessary. It is carried out along the lines of the future path or paved area.

With the help of pegs and a cord, straight lines are laid. They will be the boundaries of the base of the future pavers. In order for the masonry to turn out to be perfectly even and not deviate from straight lines, the stretched cord must be checked using a building level. Otherwise, the path can “lead”, and this is not only ugly, but also impractical, and also affects the durability of the laid tiles.

Preparation of the base for paving slabs

The technology for preparing the base for tiles consists of several stages.

Base leveling. The base must be absolutely even, so we remove all the stones from it, dig in holes, remove bumps and tubercles. You will also need to remove the sod layer - tiles should not be laid on the grass in any case.
Creating a recess for the base. If you do not want the tile to rise too high above the rest of the area, you need to create a recess for its base. To do this, it is necessary to remove 20 - 25 cm of soil from the territory that we previously fenced. Usually this is enough to place the base. However, in each case, the depth is determined individually - it can be either less or more. First of all, focus on the amount of materials intended for the base.
Creating a base cushion. The next step is to create the foundation. Everything is simple here - pour sand or gravel into a previously dug recess, and then level it. Leveling can be difficult - it is quite difficult to carry out. However, the procedure can be greatly simplified. To do this, the sand must not be covered immediately, but in parts. Before falling asleep in the area to be filled, we place two metal pipes or two pieces of metal profile. Pour sand between them, then level it with a board or metal plate. Ideally, we get an almost perfectly flat surface and fall asleep in exactly the same order the next section.

If the tile is laid on sand or a sand-cement mixture, it must be evenly moistened with water. The base is moistened until puddles begin to appear on it.

If paving stones are laid on gravel, it is better to pour it not on bare ground, but on a small layer of sand-cement mixture. This will make the base stronger.

Tile treatment before laying

In order for the paving stone to last as long as possible, it is processed before starting work. It consists of two stages.

Hydrophobization. It consists in impregnating the tiles with special compounds that help the material tolerate high humidity well, while maintaining sufficient air and vapor permeability.
Application protective coating. It consists in applying special varnish and other polymer coatings to the surface of the material, which protect it from the negative effects of the environment.

Another stage of preparation is the formation of bricks for non-standard areas and the installation of a curb. They spend it by sawing tiles with a grinder. In some cases, such formation is not required, but in most situations it is necessary.

Water repellent

Paving slabs

To install paving stones, follow these steps:

gently start laying out the tiles on the prepared base, starting from its edge;
as you move forward, do not step on already laid elements - place on them wooden board and lean on it;
during installation, be sure to check the evenness with the help of a level - this will help to eliminate shortcomings in time;
if the tile does not lie flat, hit it several times with a mallet and thereby push it deep into the base;
install pre-cut tiles for borders (or use ready-made solutions);
install borders.

Everything, installation is finished. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the procedure.

Grouting is needed not only for aesthetic purposes. The fact is that the seams, in fact, are a base that emerges between the elements of the masonry. However, it is available for any adverse effects. This significantly reduces its service life. That is why after finishing work, the seam must be overwritten.

To qualitatively wipe and align the seams, you will need:

cement;
sand;
water.

You will also need:

putty knife;
bucket;
hose;
shovel.

For grouting you need:

sweep or wash away all debris from the surface of the paved area;
pour a mixture of sand and concrete on the tile, prepared in a ratio of 5 to 1;
sweep the mixture with a brush;
Rinse off the rest of the mixture with a hose.

If the first time it was not possible to align the seams, the procedure is repeated again until the desired result is achieved.

It is possible to align the seams on paving slabs not earlier than 3 days after the completion of work on its laying. Otherwise, the base may be damaged.

grout for paving slabs

Care of paving slabs

Lay a little tile. In order for it to last as long as possible, it needs to be looked after. Here are a few rules for caring for paving stones.

Be sure to spray the newly laid tile with an antifungal solution. Otherwise, mold may appear on the masonry elements themselves and on the seams, which will destroy them over time. Processing should be carried out every 3-4 months, as the solution is washed off by precipitation.
Be careful when clearing ice and snow. During the procedure, in no case should you use crowbars, shovels, various sharp objects. This can lead to chips and cracks on the tile surface.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable loads. For example, if the pavement is intended for pedestrians, you cannot drive on it by car. This will lead to sagging.
Eliminate grass that has sprouted between the seams in a timely manner. Its stems and roots can cause serious damage to paving stones that will require repair.
It is impossible that oil products (gasoline, motor oils) get on the surface of the coating. If it is made of polymer or concrete with polymer additives, petroleum products can simply partially dissolve it.

Paving slab cleaner

Summing up

Paving slabs are a beautiful and simple coating that is perfect for garden paths and small paved areas in the backyard of a private house or cottage. You can lay the paving stones yourself - it's not at all difficult. However, during work, you must follow the technology, the procedure for preparing the site, remember some important nuances. In this case, the coating will serve you for decades and require minimal repairs.

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