Homemade Finnish paint for wood. Ancient woodworking recipes

With the onset of heat, any owner has a lot of work related to the external processing of the walls of the house or suburban area. When calculating future expenses, even the strongest lose their nerves, because most of the costs are for the purchase of paints.

paint price for facade works strongly depends on its quality. What to do if there is a whole wagon and a small cart to be painted, and the budget is extremely limited? And in recent decades, as many have already noticed, the paint "lives" for only a couple of years, then its appearance shamelessly deteriorates.

Why waste money on short-lived material? The paint can be made by yourself, in any quantities and much better than on the market. Below I give two recipes for preparing a very cheap coloring composition - the so-called Swedish and Finnish.

Wood paint for outdoor use

Swedish and Finnish paints do not allow moisture to pass through, but at the same time allow the wood to breathe. It is very easy to weld such paint. You just need to strictly follow the recipe and be careful during the cooking process. The ingredients can be found in any market.

Finnish composition for painting

Ingredients

• 720 g rye or wheat flour
• 1560 g of iron sulfate
• 360 g salt
• 1560 g dry lime pigment
• 9 liters of water

Cooking

Swedish composition for painting

It is possible to paint with such a composition only clean, previously unpainted wood, or plaster. No pre-treatment is necessary. This paint recipe requires only one thing - strictly adhere to proportions.

Ingredients

• 600 g rye flour
• 260 g salt
• 250 g drying oil
• 260 g iron sulfate
• 260 g iron minium
• 4.5 liters of water

It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with Swedish mortar with a brush, and plaster with a roller. Apply to wood twice. Paint consumption - approximately 250 g per 1 sq. meter.

Do the painting in the afternoon when the sun goes down. If the building or fence has been previously painted oil paint- you need to clean it completely.

Unlike oil paint, Finnish and Swedish compositions are much more durable. Your building will stand without external repairs for 20 years!

I'll say it straight out homemade paint- . Especially if you need to fit into the budget with large volumes of painting, do everything efficiently the first time, protect the wood for as long as possible.

To prepare Finnish paint, you will need the following components: flour
wheat or rye - 720g; iron vitriol - 1560g; water - 9l.
The secret of paint is not only in the composition, but also in strict adherence to technology
cooking. First, they take flour and 6 liters of water and prepare a paste,
why cold water is gradually added to the flour and stirred until
until the flour acquires the consistency of thick sour cream. Then
the remaining water from 6 liters is poured into the paste in a hot state.

After this procedure, the paste is filtered and put on fire. Gradually
while stirring the mixture, salt is added to it, then iron sulfate, then
dry lime pigment. Now to get a working paint job
composition, the remaining 3 liters of hot water are poured into the mixture.

The resulting paint is applied to the surface in two layers. Need
paint for each square meter- 300g. Primer for this paint
required. The advantage of Finnish paint is not only that approximately
for 20 years or more, you will not have any trouble with
the structure that was painted with it, but also in its hygiene.

According to the Finnish composition: table salt - 360 g, lime pigment - 1560 g.

SWEDISH COMPOSITION:

In the process of preparation, alkali-resistant iron-containing pigments are used for tinting - iron minium, mummy, ocher, umber, etc. As a rule, Swedish paint has rich red, brown or yellow tones.

If you need to achieve some original color of Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, walnut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.

Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron sulfate - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 l.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: the flour is poured with a small amount of cold water and kneaded; the resulting "dough" is bred cold water to the consistency of sour cream. The water remaining from 6 liters is boiled and poured into the "sour cream" in a thin stream with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt, vitriol are poured into the hot solution and mixed. Then the coloring pigment is added and again thoroughly mixed. Then, stirring vigorously, pour drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters of hot water, bringing the composition to a paint consistency.
The paint is applied to the wooden surface with a paint or terry brush once - evenly, with wide strokes, while rubbing in to fill all the pores and cracks. Do not leave unpainted areas, since with a later painting it will no longer be possible to make a smooth surface.
Swedish paint, being quite cheap, is most often covered with outbuildings, shingled roofs, and sometimes the walls of residential buildings. It is unsuitable for windows and doors, since only unplaned boards are painted with it.

LINSEED OIL (very good for wood)

Linseed oil is a classic method using natural preparations to treat wood types such as birch to achieve a long lasting, durable and moisture resistant surface. possible options:

1. Raw linseed oil, undiluted oil drying oil.

application example: Knife handle (or other product)
need to be placed in linseed oil for several days.

To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.

When the wood of the cutting is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After that, let it dry completely for a few weeks. When the oil evaporates, the surface is oxidized and polymerized, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.

2. Linseed oil diluted by 50% with turpentine. Liquid prepared from linseed oil of real natural turpentine (do not use substitutes!) in a ratio of 1 to 1.

With the help of turpentine, the drying time of the wood and the oxidation of the oil is reduced.
Application: (see 1). Drying time is 1-2 weeks.

3. Linseed oil with tar.

The addition of 50% tar gives the wood a red-brown tint. (apply see 1)
Use only natural tar, after application carefully wipe off the remaining oil with a soft and smooth rag.

WARNING: When using linseed oil there is a risk of spontaneous combustion of rags soaked in linseed solution. Therefore, throw away with extreme care, so as not to lead to fire!

* WOODEN PRODUCTS CAN BE WAXED, here is one of the varnish recipes:

LAC. COMPOSITION:
wax - 100 hours
rosin - 25 hours
turpentine 50h (parts are indicated by weight).

Grind and melt rosin and wax, mix, then remove from heat and pour in turpentine, mix thoroughly. Coating recipes are different and here you can and should try different compositions. Another way of such folk varnish is rosin dissolved in turpentine.

* SEVERAL OLD RECIPES FOR CHEAP AND DURABLE PAINTS FOR WOODEN SURFACES:

• COTTAGE CHEESE AND LIME:

Equal amounts of fresh cottage cheese and slaked lime are thoroughly kneaded. A white, rapidly drying liquid is formed.
It must be used the same day, because it quickly deteriorates.

Ocher and some other colors can be added to this composition. In this case, it is necessary to use as little water as possible, as it negatively affects strength.

The paint dries very quickly and does not leave the slightest smell. Therefore, it is possible to cover the surface with two layers in one day.

To give the color more strength, after applying two layers, it is polished with pieces of coarse cloth.

• STARCH AND PAINTING:

From 10 weight parts of wheat starch, filled with cold water, a composition is obtained that resembles thick sour cream in consistency.

Stirring constantly, boiled water is added until the composition of the desired density is formed. For greater strength, 1 part alum or borax can be added to the warm paste.

To prepare the paint, zinc white and any colored paint, vegetable or mineral, are added to the still hot paste.

Then zinc chloride is dissolved in water and a small amount of tartaric acid is added to it.

Before use, mix the first mixture with this solution. Amount of material and proportions of great importance Dont Have. The paint is applied in the usual way. She is low flammable, not afraid of dampness and cold water, but hot water with soap can be washed off.

• POTATO PAINT:

Take 1 kilogram of potatoes and boil it. Peel while still hot, pour 4 large mugs of water. After that, it is necessary to knead everything into porridge and rub through a sieve so that no lumps remain. Add 1.5 kilograms of powdered chalk, which is pre-diluted in 4 cups of water. The result will be about 8 mugs of grayish, durable, good opaque and very cheap paint.

All of these paints have been tested and give excellent results.

* PROCESSING OF WOODEN (etc.) PRODUCTS:

1. In order to prevent the wooden product from cracking and crumbling into pieces, it was boiled for 1-2 hours in a solution of fly ash. After that, they dried it, and, if necessary, continued processing of finer details.

ASH LYE is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing woven products and for processing wooden products.

Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (best of all - birch) to the state of white ash (ash). Ash (ash) is filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used for fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain "soap"), and water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.

2. In a strong decoction of crushed OAK BARK, our ancestors either boiled (a couple of hours) or soaked (for a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wicker products - from bast, flax, hemp, reed ... Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.

Everyone knows that wood stain is used as an antiseptic material for wood. After such powerful protection, the service life of wood is extended by 2 times. This is a liquid consistency product. It betrays the tree not only brown, but also different shades. It is used as a dye. Such do-it-yourself wood paint is made at home without expensive ingredients.

Morilka Recipes

There are no expensive components in the tinting liquid formulation. Plants, coffee, chemistry components are used. These are the elements that you can work with to make home paint.

Wood staining with plant components

• Light tree species acquire a red tint after they are treated with a strong decoction of onion peel.
• A birch product will be painted with the same shade if it is treated with a decoction of larch bark.
• The tree turns brown after applying a solution made from walnuts.

Dry the shell in a dark place. She is selected in a slightly rotten state. When the shell is dried, it is ground into a powder. A decoction is prepared from it, which is filtered when ready. Added soda.

• If an additional solution of potassium dichromate is applied to the brown color of the tree (after the walnut), then wood with a red tint will be obtained. The chemical component is diluted in water.
• The applied diluted vinegar gives the wooden surface a gray tint.
• Yellowness will give the wood an infusion of buckthorn fruits. They gather unripe. If alum is added, the yellow color effect is enhanced.
• A decoction of oak bark or alder covers the wood black.

A rich brown color is obtained after treatment with a stain prepared from the following components:

1. Nut shell powder. Replaced with apple bark powder;
2. Willow bark powder;
3. Frayed oak bark;
4. Alder earrings;
5. Baking soda - 1 tsp

Vegetable components are mixed with soda, diluted with water. The mixture is cooked over low heat for a couple of minutes. The prepared composition cools down, filtered. The stain is ready for application.

Useful video on the topic:

Coloring composition of tea, coffee, vinegar

• The color of wood staining depends on the concentration of brewed tea. The coloring agent is theanine, which is part of its composition.
• Soda mixed with ground coffee beans is used for toning. Instead of a stain, the surface is treated with concentrated instant coffee.
• The vinegar solution turns the wood surface red.

To prepare such a solution in a glass container, nails or any metal parts(previously defatted) are completely covered with vinegar. In this state, they are stored in a dark place for a week. The duration of oxidation affects the saturation of the hue.

The stain is applied in a room with good ventilation or on the street because the strong smell of vinegar is strongly audible.

• If concentrated tea (with theanine) or a concentrate of decoction of oak bark (replaced by walnut) is added to vinegar, then the wood covered with a stain of this composition turns anthracite black.

Stain with chemical components

• Combinations of wolfberry juice with different acids turn the surface black and other colors.
• Tandem juice with baking soda gives a blue color.
• A scarlet hue will appear after the addition of Glauber's salt.
• The appearance of brown color will be after combining with copper sulphate.
• Theanine woods and oak will turn brown if covered with slaked lime. After it, the nut surface will turn brown-green.
• Light woods will turn yellow after applying a decoction of barberry root and alum (2%). The barberry root is replaced by poplar shoots. In this case, the yellow will be more saturated. The stain is prepared in advance, 7 days before use.

Recipe Ingredients:

Poplar shoots - 150 gr.;

Water - 1 l + 1 l;

Alum - 2%.

Water with poplar shoots is brought to a boil, alum is added. The mixture is boiled for 60 minutes. Ready broth is filtered. Infused for 7 days. After that, homemade wood paint is ready to use.

• If concentrated oak broth is added to the finished decoction of poplar shoots, then the stain will turn the tree green.
• A mixture of vinegar and verdigris powder (60 grams) will appear green. And it won't happen right away. The tree is soaked. Vinegar with verdigris is boiled for 15 minutes.
• The recipe for stain with theanine is widely used. At the first stage, the wooden product is covered with a mixture: soda ash (75 gr.) + carbonate (35 gr.) + water (1 l). At the second stage, after the surface has dried, a solution is applied: theanine (50 gr.) + water (1 l). Color appears after 60 minutes.
• The color of dark oak is obtained after applying the mixture ammonia with water. It is necessary to work with such stain carefully. Coloring is carried out on the street at an accelerated pace, since the composition quickly loses its coloring properties.

If the wooden product is small, then it can be placed in a tightly closed container and poured with the mixture. Aged for 2 hours, after that it gets. The mixture is washed off the painted wood.

Finnish and Swedish paint recipes

Homemade paint applied to exterior walls wooden house. Dyes of the Finnish and Swedish recipe allow the wood to "breathe", protect it from moisture and atmospheric phenomena.

The cooking technology is the same. Paints differ from each other by their constituent elements.

Ingredients of Swedish dye:

• Flour - 1.160 kg;
• Iron vitriol - 0.52 kg;
• Salt - 0.52 kg;
• Dry lime pigment - 0.52 kg;
• Drying oil - 0.48 kg;
• Liquid - 9 liters.

Finnish Composition Elements:

• Flour - 0.72 kg;
• Vitriol - 1,560 kg;
• Salt - 0.36 kg;
• Dry lime pigment - 1.56 kg;
• Liquid - 9 liters.

When building a house, garage and other buildings made of wood, it is necessary to paint wooden surfaces. We will not talk about the naturalness and environmental friendliness of wood, but we will focus your attention on the colorful coating, which, as a rule, is purchased ready-made, in a store or on the market.

In our time, we are already accustomed to buying ready-made paint, produced at a paint and varnish enterprise. Let's face it, you have to pay a lot of money for good paint. But most importantly, if we buy some paints that can cover the surface of wood with a film, then there will be no trace of environmental friendliness. We will not only see the colorful coating, but also hide the wood under a layer of paint.

Another thing is natural-based paints that can not only preserve wood, but also give it an elegant look. However, you can not only buy paints, but also cook yourself. Moreover, the manufacture of such natural paint is much cheaper than buying it in a store.

Basically, there are recipes for Finnish paints, probably in Finland they have long understood that paint can be made independently. The composition of the wood paint includes the following components: hot water 80 liters, two buckets of ten liters of diluted rye flour 8 kg, in water, two buckets, 7 kg of iron sulfate, 1 kg of table salt, 6 liters of drying oil and 30 kg of ocher.

There are other recipes for Swedish paint, for example, in smaller volumes of 10 lire: rye flour 800 g, iron sulfate 400 g, salt 250 g, drying oil 300 g, dye, ocher, etc. 300-600 g, and water is added to mixture up to a volume of 10 liters. If you use such paint for painting roofs, then 500 g of drying oil is added.

Once upon a time, in the mid-80s, my father and brother and I built country house. In those days withthe material was tight, so a house was built from what was found. The house turned out to be a two-story frame-panel house with an attic on a high strip foundation. Moreover, between the shields, knocked together from boards from various boxes, we rammed ordinary earth, taken out during the construction of the foundation and the cellar under the floor. Later, the house was sheathed with sheet slate.

And when the question arose about painting wooden attic and verandas, I came across a wonderful Soviet magazine "Do it yourself", which described the method of preparing paint from natural ingredients. My father - "golden hands", naturally decided to try this remedy. The ingredients were bought from nearby stores and soon the house was painted with a "Finnish composition". A green tint was added for the color. For more than seven years, we did not touch or paint the wooden veranda with anything, until my father wanted to expand it (our family increased, grandchildren were born).

Yes, it turned out that it is not so easy to disassemble the old boards. Thanks to the Finnish composition, the tree became stronger, not a single wood borer touched it, and the nails were firmly stuck in the fibers of the tree, only rusty hats flew off.

After the expansion of the veranda, the walls were again painted with this composition. Until now, in the summer, father and mother move to this house and live there until the end of the summer season, growing a wonderful crop of vegetables and fruits.

Painting wooden walls

Painting the exterior walls of a wooden house is a problem that confronts the owner of a painted wooden house every 5 to 7 years. Many people prefer to paint the walls with oil paints. But they do not realize that by doing so they reduce the life of the house. It turns out that under a layer of oil paint at constant humidity, microorganisms develop that destroy the wood. In addition, a house painted with oil paint hardly “breathes”, stagnant smells appear in it, etc.

Currently, two very cheap paints are known: Swedish and Finnish compositions, which are devoid of the disadvantages of oil paints and even have some advantages.

The main advantages of the Swedish and Finnish compositions over oil paints:

One and a half times more durable;

Several times cheaper;

The house after painting "breathes", and the paint does not let moisture through.

When re-painting the house with these compositions, preparatory operations are not required (compared to oil paint): cleaning old paint, primer, etc. Before re-painting with the Swedish or Finnish composition of the wall, it is necessary to cover a fraction with a hard broom.

Swedish and Finnish compositions have one removable drawback - they can be painted on dry old wood that does not have traces of oil paint.

Freshly planed wood must be deresined before painting. These issues will be discussed below.

Swedish squad:

flour (rye or wheat) - 1160 g;

iron vitriol - 520 g;

table salt - 520 g;

lime pigment (dry *) -520g;

drying oil natural - 480 g;

water - about 9 liters.

A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water. They do it like this. Pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead. The resulting dough is diluted with cold water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Then, with vigorous stirring, add the remaining water (boiling water) in a continuous thin stream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot paste and dissolved with stirring. Then a pigment (modern color) is added to the hot solution and everything is thoroughly mixed.

Drying oil is poured into the solution in a thin stream and again vigorously stirred. Then add the rest (3 l) hot water, diluting the composition to a paint consistency.

Finnish squad:

flour - 720 g;

iron vitriol - 1560 g;

table salt - 360 g;

lime pigment - 1560 g;

water - about 9 liters.

Both compositions are prepared in enameled dishes based on 1 - 1.5 hours of work. The thickened composition can be diluted to paint density with hot water, but this reduces its strength.

Usually, the finished composition is wrapped up so that it is warm during the entire time of work. As working utensils, where the required amount is poured, suitable plastic cans are taken. Frequently cut bottles from car oil, tasol, etc. are best suited for this.

Both compositions are applied to wooden surfaces with a brush or roller in two passes. Coloring is done in the afternoon, when the sun sets. Composition consumption - 250 - 300 g per 1 sq. m.

Paint without primer.

Old oil paint is removed using all kinds of washes, both standard (SD, AFT-1, SP.-7), and home-made.

The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed with water to a creamy state.

This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and leave for 1.5 - 2 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. At the same time, the old paintwork can be easily removed.

Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime dough - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) 25% solution - is added to form a liquid paste.

The surface to be treated is covered with a paste and left for 1 - 1.5 hours. Then the paste, together with the old lubricant, is washed with a 1% solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). After that, they are washed with water. Resin removal of freshly planed wood consists in removing from the surface of the wood all resinous substances that prevent adhesion (sticking) of paints. Before painting with oil paints, deresining is not necessary, since oil paints adhere to such surfaces due to the homogeneity of wood resins and drying oil, on which oil paints are prepared.

Ash lye is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing textiles and for processing wooden products. Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (I read that birch is best) to the state of white ash (ash).

Ash (ash) is filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used for fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain "soap"), and the water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.

2. In a strong decoction of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (I don’t remember exactly the time - it seems a couple of hours), or soaked (here I remember the time - a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wickerwork - from bast, flax, hemp, cane (I don't remember the whole list).

Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.

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