Soil preparation for cucumbers. Is it possible to grow cucumber seedlings in peat tablets? Growing cucumbers on peat in a greenhouse

The best soil for cucumber is loose, light, well aerated (containing a lot of air in the soil capillaries), a powerful root system develops in it and cucumber lashes grow very quickly. Cultivated soils with a high content of organic matter (rotted manure, peat, compost) are most suitable for cucumber. Suitable for cucumber and sandy soils however, they are weak in holding water and batteries. They need to be watered frequently and fed with small doses of fertilizer.

Undeveloped soils must be cultivated before planting cucumbers.

Soddy-podzolic soils- the main ones in the Central Non-Chernozem zone of Russia, concentrated mainly to the north of the Moscow region. They are characterized by low fertility, low content of humus and nutrients available to plants, acid reaction of the soil solution (pH 4-5). Soddy-podzolic soils without gleying are more suitable for cucumber. Organic fertilizers (manure, compost, peat) should be applied to them at the rate of 5-10 kg per 1 sq. m, loosening materials, lime.

gray forest soils, located south of the Moscow region, in terms of water-physical properties are close to sod-podzolic. They differ from them in a high content of humus (up to 3-5%). These are acidic or slightly acidic soils. The main measures to improve the fertility of such soils are liming, the application of organic and mineral (mainly nitrogen and phosphorus) fertilizers.

Peatlands(except lowlands) have a high acidity, are characterized by a low content of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, trace elements. Nitrogen is in a form that is difficult for plants to access. Peat soils warm up slowly in spring and cool quickly in autumn. To reduce the impact of adverse temperature regime On plants in peatlands, cucumbers are usually grown on simple or fallow ridges, using plastic wrap.

Compost has a very beneficial effect on the growth and yield of cucumber. Therefore, if there is compost on the site, in the spring, before sowing or planting, they dig a trench across the entire width of the ridge to the depth of a shovel bayonet and fill it with last year's compost. The rotted compost is no longer capable of self-heating, and it can not be covered from above with a large layer of fertile soil. The temperature of non-rotted or semi-rotted compost rises as a result of microbiological decomposition, therefore, such composts, when preparing a ridge,

mixed with earth (2:1-1:1). You can cover the compost from above with fertile soil or limed peat with a layer of 10-20 cm.

AT middle lane and more southern regions of Russia, where there is a lot of fertile land and large reserves of peat, black soil, humus, wide beds with narrow row spacing have an advantage over narrow beds with wide row spacing. The fact is that with the same distance between the rows of adjacent ridges (100-110 cm), with narrow row spacings, the soil is less trampled down and the root system of the cucumber is less damaged. The roots of cucumber plants are located superficially, but they spread far from the stem - up to 2 m in diameter. During the period of the beginning of fruiting on loose ridges, one can see how active white roots literally penetrate the entire surface of the ridge and aisle. Some vegetable growers, in order to reduce the trampling of the soil in the aisles along the entire length, lay boards in them, but slugs can accumulate under them.

Existing low volume hydroponics methods have one common problem - a significant decrease in the volume of substrates, which is associated with the need to provide active aeration of the roots, especially the dense root layer formed in the lower part of the substrates. To optimize water-air conditions, it is necessary to uniformly moisten the entire volume of the substrate from above, while ensuring the removal of excess nutrient solution from the lower part.

One of the reasons for poor aeration may be the use of pure peat for growing vegetable crops, especially with a high degree of decomposition. Under greenhouse conditions, peat quickly mineralizes, loses its structure, and the aeration of the root system deteriorates. The introduction of coarse-grained additives (gravel, perlite, vermiculite, etc.) into peat increases the number of large pores (duration ratio) and allows you to increase the life of the substrate. Another reason for reducing the aeration of the root system is growing plants in plastic bags. Closed space and poor outflow of drainage water lead to oxygen starvation of the root system and its oppression. Therefore, we recommend growing oi-urets in trays and containers that provide good aeration of the root system, a higher yield and an increase in early production. To do this, you can use the Mapal polypropylene tray with efficient system drainage outflow, which is successfully used in many European countries. In recent years, this method of cultivation has proven itself well in greenhouses in Ukraine. The height of the tray is 17 cm, the width is from 20 to 50 cm, the material withstands steam sterilization, which was confirmed in all households that used it. To reduce the risk of overmoistening of the substrate, especially in the first year of growing cucumbers in low-volume hydroponics, we recommend filling the lower part of the tray to a height of 4-5 cm with crushed stone of a fraction of 3-8 mm.

Physical properties of substrates

The influence of the substrate on the oxygen concentration in it

Dependence of oxygen concentration on the composition of the substrate (cove of vegetation)

To improve the ratio of air and water phases, reduce the density and increase the aeration of the substrate, we recommend using peat-perlite mixtures when growing cucumbers in the ratio (%) peat: perlite - 30: 70 or 50: 50. It is best to use granular perlite for mixtures with particles of 2-5 mm and the content of dusty fraction (particles less than 1 mm) not more than 5%. Peat-perlite mixtures can be used for 3-4 years with the annual sterilization of the substrate and the addition of 10-15% of fresh perlite of the total volume.

Modern highly productive cucumber hybrids have an imbalance between the mass of the aerial part and the roots, and this discrepancy is intensified in low-volume hydroponics. The root system develops more slowly than the aerial part and certain stage cannot cope with the supply of leaf apparatus and fruits with nutrients. Thus, the poor development of the cucumber root system is one of the main limiting factors for increasing yields in low-volume hydroponics. To correct the imbalance, it is necessary to stimulate additionally from the seedling period and throughout the entire growing season root system the introduction of microelements, growth regulators, vitamins of group B.

The peat used must be limed no later than 10-15 days before planting. The dose of lime material is determined by the value of hydrolytic acidity or by trial liming and averages 4-12 kg/m3 of chalk, depending on the properties of the peat.

It is better not to apply dry mineral fertilizers, especially ammonia, to peat with a moisture content above 70% because of the impossibility of their uniform distribution. In addition, a large amount of ammonia is formed in wet peat, which is released during the reduction of ammonia nitrogen of fertilizers, and if the ammonia content is more than 30 mg/l in low light conditions, cucumber roots are damaged and the growth of the root system is inhibited. In this case, the main filling is carried out directly in the greenhouse through the system drip irrigation. The dose of the solution is 4-6 l / m:, the concentration is 2.5-2.8 mS / cm.

The most favorable for the assimilation of almost all nutrients by cucumber roots is the pH of the medium: 6.0-6.2 before fruiting and 5.8-6.0 during fruiting. Maintaining the soil and nutrient solution within the required limits is one of the main requirements for growing vegetable crops, since pH affects the intensity of the entry of cations and anions into the roots of plants. It is necessary to check this indicator in soil and nutrient solutions 2-3 times a week. In the case of alkalization of the solution, it is necessary to acidify it to the desired pH value with an appropriate amount of nitric, orthophosphoric or sulfuric acids, or NH4N03. In the case of acidification of the nutrient solution, it is brought into line with sodium hydroxide, reducing the dose of NH4.

When preparing a nutrient solution, it is important to control buffering - the content of free bicarbonate HC03 ions, "therefore, first of all, determine their content in water. To ensure buffering, taking into account physiologically acidic salts, approximately I mmol HC03 should be left free. or nitric acid. Bicarbonates and acids interact in equivalent amounts, i.e. 1 mmol HCO3* (61 mg/l) reacts with 1 mmol H3PO4 (98 mg/l) or 1 mmol HNO3 (63 mg/l). At the same time, phosphoric acid is a source of phosphorus, nitric acid is a source of nitrogen. This should be taken into account when preparing nutrient solutions.

The concentration of the nutrient solution is determined by measuring the electrical conductivity (EC) and is expressed in millisiemens (mS/cm). 1 mS / cm \u003d 700 mg of salts per 1 liter of solution. The optimal nutrient solution concentration level for oi-urs is 1.5-2.5 mS/cm. The optimal concentration is not constant and must be changed depending on the growth phase and environmental conditions. So, in the spring months, with an increase in the influx of solar radiation, plants evaporate more water, so solutions of a lower concentration should be prepared (EC example 1.6-1.8 mS/cm). By the end of the growing season, the concentration should be reduced to 1.5-1.6 mS/cm.

In the process of plant growth and development, the concentration and ratio of nutrients in the substrate is constantly changing. In this regard, it is necessary to systematically monitor the presence of batteries, medium pH and electrical conductivity. To do this, determine the pH and EC of the nutrient solution, which is taken from under the droppers. Periodically analyze the content of macro- and microelements in the peat substrate. The substrate must be taken for analysis from the opposite side of the dropper at a distance of 5-7 cm from it. The top layer of the substrate should be discarded. If nutritional limits are exceeded, the substrate should be washed with a nutrient solution of EC 1.2-1.3 mS/cm.

Additionally, the process of cucumber nutrition can be controlled by analyzing the drainage flow, which in the winter months is 5-10%, in the summer - 25-30% of the supplied nutrient solution. A low content of nutrients will indicate a lack of certain elements, and a high content will indicate excess nutrition or insufficient absorption of nutrients. Firm "L.I.K." supplies a computerized drainage monitoring and analysis system with its low-volume hydroponics equipment, which continuously monitors the volume of drainage flow, its EC and pH, which allows agrochemists to quickly adjust plant nutrition. The conditions for growing and feeding cucumbers are reflected in the chemical composition of cell sap, so the content of mineral elements can also be determined in extracts from fresh leaves.

With a deficiency or excess of any element in cucumber leaves, the solution is adjusted for 3-5 days, reducing or increasing the content of the corresponding element by 10-15%. It should be borne in mind that the microclimate conditions have a significant effect on the absorption of batteries.

When growing cucumber in low-volume hydroponics, the most important factor is regular watering of the plants with a nutrient solution. The rate of watering depends on the growing period and weather conditions (see Section 7). The average water consumption of cucumber per day (l/plant) by months in the temperate climate zone when grown on peat is: in January - 0.5-0.6; in February - 09-1.5; March - 1.6-2.2; April - 2.5-3.1; May - 3.0-3.5; June - 3.1-3.8; July - 3.1-3.8; August - 2.5-3.1; September - 1.2-1.6; October - 0.6-1.0; November - 0.4-0.6.

Practice shows that when growing cucumbers in low-volume hydroponics, it is necessary to use a system of upper evaporative additional humidification and air cooling. This is especially important during the period of seedling rooting, as well as in winter, when a large difference in air temperature inside and outside the greenhouse leads to low air humidity. It is necessary to use this system in the summer when the weather changes sharply from cloudy to sunny. In addition, it prevents the spread of spider mites at low air humidity and leaf necrosis at high summer temperatures. It is necessary to ensure that the plants enter the night with dry leaves, dry leaf axils.

In greenhouses, you can harvest throughout the year. Then the cucumber crop begins to come from greenhouses and, finally, from insulated soil.

Growing cucumbers in greenhouses

From varieties of cucumbers The most common in greenhouses are Non-fertile, which are characterized by high yields and disease resistance. In a small amount, to obtain the earliest harvest, the Murom variety is taken. Sometimes cucumbers of the Vyaznikovsky variety are also grown. In the south, Crimean cucumbers give good results in greenhouses.

in greenhouses cucumbers are usually placed in the second turn after greens and seedlings. According to experimental institutions and industrial practice, the best results are obtained when planting seedlings of cucumbers on permanent place in greenhouses from April 1 to April 15 (in the middle regions of Russia).

Fertile soil for cucumbers

An excess of the latter can cause too strong growth of tops to the detriment of fruiting. For admixture to soddy soil, humus and less often peat soil is used in the cultivation of cucumbers.

Sod land for cucumbers

Sod should not be taken near vegetable stores, piles with vegetables and similar places, since the soil here can be infected with various pathogens that can cause diseases of plants in protected ground.

The turf is cut into layers and folded grass to grass in stacks 2.5-3 meters wide, 1.25-1.5 meters high, with an arbitrary length. Two grooves are made on top of the pile to retain rainwater.

If the land is not fertile enough then use manure. The last layer about 15 centimeters thick is placed between the grass. With dense clay soil, it is better to take horse manure, and with light sandy soil, cow manure is preferable, which has great binding properties.

If the sod land is acidic, then you should add an average of 1 cu. meter of land 2-3 kilograms of lime or 3-4 kilograms of ash. Lime and ashes are placed between those layers where manure does not lie.

When laying in a pile of too dry sod, it should be watered, otherwise the sod will not decompose well.

In the future, it is necessary to ensure that the turf in the heap does not dry out. If it dries out, the pile is moistened - water is poured into the grooves, and even better - slurry. The slurry, in addition to moisturizing the earth, enriches it with nutrients.

A pile during the summer must be shoveled at least once, that is, shift from one place to another, while trying to chop the turf somewhat. When shifting a pile, its surface layers should be placed in the middle, and the middle part on the surface. If the turf was laid in the spring, then with proper care sod land is ready for autumn. But in case of poor decomposition, the sods leave a pile for another year.

The decomposed turf is sieved through the roar. If the turf is well decomposed, then it is better to use sod land for greenhouses without sifting, but carefully break up large lumps with a rake in order to preserve the soil structure.

Humus (dung) land is very rich plant nutrients. It contains, in addition to phosphorus, potassium and other elements, a large amount of nitrogen. Humus land in its pure form is not used, but it is added to other types of land, mainly to turf and garden.

Humus land is obtained as follows: in the fall, semi-decomposed manure is removed from the greenhouses and stacked in piles, in which it finally rots, forming a good, fat earth.

Good humus land is formed in about a year, that is, by next autumn.

During this time, the pile should be shoveled once or twice, and moistened with strong drying. Sometimes humus is used, which has lain in heaps only in autumn and winter. This can be done if it has sufficiently decomposed in greenhouses by autumn.

Peat land for growing cucumbers

By chemical composition peat is poor in potassium, and also in most cases in phosphorus, but rich in nitrogen, although in a form that is difficult for plants to access.

For peat land peat is harvested in a lowland or transitional swamp. Peat from moss swamps is more difficult to decompose, and, in addition, it is poor in nutrients. However, with the addition of an appropriate amount of fertilizer, moss peat also produces good peaty soil.

Peat is piled in heaps, sprinkled with lime in the amount of 4-6 kilograms per 1 cubic meter. meter. Heaps of peat are stacked approximately the same size as in the preparation of sod land. For better decomposition of peat heaps are shoveled once or twice. It is useful for piles to lie outdoors during the winter. This improves the properties of peat land.

Potassium phosphate fertilizer should be applied to peat soil before its use.

Good results are obtained if phosphate rock is added to acid peat, when it is piled in heaps, in the amount of 15-20 kilograms per cubic meter. meter of peat. In this case lime or ash is not added.

Everyone loves cucumbers, whether they are fresh or pickled and pickled. And in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to choose the right soil for cucumbers, the composition of which should help for a large harvest. The video in this article shows step-by-step instruction how to grow a good crop of cucumbers with your own hands.

The most important condition for obtaining good seedlings is the right soil. If the soil is unfortunate, then the sprouts will get sick and grow very weak, if they do not die. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this choice with all responsibility.

Most summer residents and gardeners prefer to purchase a ready-made soil mixture so that it is presented in a large assortment in any agricultural store and the price for them is acceptable to any consumer.

But in this case, there are also disadvantages, since some manufacturers sell ordinary peat instead of soil mixtures, which is not suitable for seedlings. If you buy ready-made soil, then it must be a proven brand and manufacturer.

Advice! It is better to do the soil for seedlings yourself, so you will know exactly what is included in its composition.

Ground Requirements

A good soil for seedlings of cucumbers can be from a variety of components, but there are General requirements which it must match:

• The soil needs to be balanced and fertile., therefore, its composition should contain not only organic substances, but also micro- and macroelements.
• The soil must be porous light and loose, this will allow the root system of young shoots to get enough exact amount oxygen.
• The earth must be able to absorb water well enough. and hold it, which will allow moisture to evenly moisten the entire volume of soil in the container.
• For the soil, it is important that it contains a "live" microflora, as it is very useful for young plants.
• The acidity level of the soil should be as close to neutral as possible, approximately 6.5 - 7.0.

It is also very important that the soil does not have:

• Make sure that fungus spores do not get into your soil., weed seeds, larvae or eggs of insects, as well as microorganisms that bring diseases.
• Soil for cucumbers should not be toxic, therefore, its components cannot be taken in dangerous places, for example: a highway or city lawns. It is better to take them from forest plantations or groves.
• There should be no rapidly and actively decomposing components in the ground so that when mixed, microorganisms do not wake up and the decomposition process does not begin.
• The composition of the soil for cucumbers should not include clay, as it will degrade the quality of your soil mixture, and the seedlings will die.

What can be in the composition of the soil

The soil in the greenhouse for cucumbers may consist of the following components:

• Sod land or land from the garden.
• Leaf land is the half-rotted leaves of trees, except for willow and oak.
• Sunflower husk or husk from grains.
• Crushed raw egg shells.
• Wood ash.
• Moss sphagnum.
• Humus.
• Peat (see).

Here are the inorganic components that can be used to create a soil mixture:

• Very well washed river sand. It is needed for better loosening of the soil.
• Neutral eco-friendly material- perlite. It helps the earth "breathe" and retains moisture.
• The material is vermiculite, plus it contains calcium, magnesium and potassium.
• A polymer such as a hydrogel will help retain the right moisture and reduce the amount of watering.
• Slaked lime will help reduce the acidity of the soil.
• Shredded foam.
• Expanded clay.

What are the soil compositions?

There are several approximate compositions of soil mixtures that are suitable for seedlings:

• Soddy or leafy soil is about one part + peat or humus is also one part + sand or perlite is also one part.
• Three parts of soddy and leafy soil + also about three parts of humus + one part of river sand or vermiculite.
• Soddy land is about two parts + humus is only one part + also one part of sand + we take about two glasses of wood ash for a bucket of this mixture.
• One part of sod land + one part of approximately humus + take about one glass of wood ash per bucket of such a mixture.
• One part of the land from the garden + also one part of the purchased land "universal" + also one part of the sand.

Below is the composition of the soil mixture, which is considered the best for cucumbers:

• Twenty liters of sod-leaf land.
• Approximately eight grams of ammonium nitrate.
• About ten grams of double superphosphate.
• And about ten grams of sulfuric potassium.
• Add three or four tablespoons of wood ash.

And one more composition:

• We take three to four parts of non-acidic peat.
• Add about four parts of humus.
• And four parts of pure fertile land.
• Dilute the mixture with one part of the sand.
• Also sawdust.
• As a result, we add about three kilograms of manure and half a glass of wood ash per meter of land.

And in conclusion, you can add special fertilizers for cucumber land (see).

Advice! If you are a beginner, then try in different containers different formulations soil, so you end up choosing the one that suits you best.

Preparatory work

To grow cucumbers in a greenhouse, we prepare the soil for them very carefully. The earth, like sand, must first be well sieved and any debris, insect larvae and worms removed. Then it is worth disinfecting the soil to protect the plants from diseases and pests.

This can be done in several ways:

• Freeze. The ground prepared in the fall is covered so that precipitation does not fall and left for the winter on the street. About a month before planting, they bring it in, warm it, mix it with the rest of the ingredients and, having covered it, take it out again in the cold before planting.
• Steam. About a month before planting, the soil mixture is steamed in a water bath, under a closed lid, for about three hours.
• Ignite. The soil is calcined in an oven preheated to forty degrees, for about half an hour.

Purchased soil does not require disinfection, as it has already been prepared.

We buy soil

Consider a few useful tips from experienced summer residents, what you need to know when buying shop soil for seedlings of cucumbers:

• In stores, the soil is universal and special, for various crops. Experienced vegetable growers buy special soil, since active fertilizers must be additionally added to the universal one.
• Be sure to buy a package with a label that indicates the manufacturer and his address, the composition of the soil itself and its batch number, as well as the production and expiration dates. Also on the label there is useful information, for example: the acidity of the soil is indicated.
• Read the composition of the soil well, ideally it should be a couple of types of peat, sand or vermiculite, as well as montmorillonite alumina. If the composition per liter of the mixture contains 300 milligrams of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus, then this mixture is used as a separate component of the main mixture.
• If you are buying soil for the first time, then take one small bag of different mixtures per sample. In the future, the soil you like can be purchased in bulk at large quantities. The main thing is that it be porous, loose and hold moisture well.
• At home, the earth must be sorted out, as debris and larvae may also be present in it. Then it is disinfected for prevention, but this must be done in advance, since the beneficial microflora also dies with diseases.

Types of store soil

Ready store soil, it is convenient and does not take much time. But not all of them are used in their pure form: some are ready for planting right away, others need to add fertilizer, and still others are used as an additive to the main mixture.

Consider the most popular of them:

• Living earth. This soil can be used both immediately for planting and instead of fertilizer. It can be of several types: universal, special No. 1 - slightly acidic, special No. 2 - neutral and floral. Special No. 2 is suitable for cucumbers.
• Mother Earth. This soil is almost ready for planting, but it is not loose enough for cucumbers, so semi-rotted sawdust about twenty percent of the amount of the mixture or Agrovermiculite.
• Humimax. He is ready for boarding and has already been spayed. Such soil consists of peat, river sand, mineral fertilizers, manure compost and Humimax fertilizer, which contains potassium humate, a biologically active component.
• Micro-greenhouse. Such a soil is considered neutral and with the addition of sand or sawdust and steamed soil, various varieties can be grown in it. vegetable crops. If you add sawdust, they should be poured over with boiling water and mixed with ash.
• Ground for cucumbers. This is ready-made soil for planting cucumber seeds. It is based on peat, diluted with all the necessary elements for the nutrition and rapid growth of cucumber seedlings and its good harvest.
• Biud soils. These are organo-mineral soils, which are prepared using a special technology. They are ready to land. They are different types: for solanaceous, for conifers, for garden flowers, for indoor flowers, for vegetables and for cucurbits.
• Universal. This type of soil consists of peat and semi-rotted sawdust, and before planting it should be further enriched with mineral fertilizers. You can add twenty percent of the entire mixture, Pixa or biohumus.
• Biohumus. This is an additive from the main soil mixture, consisting of lying sawdust, ventilated peat, bird droppings and manure processed by worms. Most often, it is added in an amount of twenty percent of the total mixture.

It makes no sense to list all varieties of soil ready for planting and additives to the soil mixture. Any neighbor-dacha resident will advise you which soil is better. And also sales consultants will tell you what to take for a test.

Peat tablets

Peat tablets are a relatively recent invention and their cost is many times higher than soil in bags, but gardeners appreciated their convenience. They are easy to use, they do not need to be disinfected, and it is convenient to transplant the grown seedlings.

Such tablets consist of compressed peat or coconut fiber, which have equivalent properties. They are packed in a paper shell or natural mesh, which are impregnated by special means against diseases and pests.

Advice! You should not buy peat tablets without a shell, because when swollen, it will not be a container, but a handful of wet peat.

Tablets are available in different sizes and are purchased depending on the size of the seed of your plant. They also have different acidity, which is usually indicated on the packaging of tablets, so when buying tablets, carefully read the label.

Peat cups

Peat cups are more popular than peat tablets, as they are even more convenient. Most often they are used when picking seedlings. They are good because they are created from environmentally friendly natural materials and decompose well in the ground, leaving no traces.

Their advantages include their durability and environmental friendliness. They are porous, which allows air and moisture to easily penetrate. This advantage allows the roots to breathe well and not sour. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out together with a glass, so the roots remain safe and sound.

But peat cups also have disadvantages, this applies to their cheap varieties. Due to the low price, their quality also suffers, they get wet and can become moldy. All types of peat cups have the problem of rapid water absorption, so they need to be watered more often.

Conclusion

How many cucumbers sprout in the soil you choose will depend on the varieties of the cucumbers themselves. And with proper cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers in protected ground, you will get a wonderful and tasty harvest of amazing vegetables.

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