How to make a homemade earth drill (pit drill, earth drill). Do-it-yourself electric drill for the earth Do-it-yourself garden drill with an electric drive

Everything can be done by our Russian Kulibins, so a home-made ice drill is not a problem for us, if the task were set.

To begin with, let's decide what manufacturing process we have to do, because each thing can be:

make from scratch;
finalize;
retool.

Today's editorial assignment obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and refining existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.

What are we not talking about?

In this material, you will not read about the conversion of manual ice drills to electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual manufacturing here, but there is a connection of three parts: an auger, an adapter and a drill together.

Manufacturing from scratch

It is even scary to begin to describe this complex process. Without locksmith, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let's start.

To describe the manufacturing process, we have chosen several models:

shoulder blade
annular;
framework;
screw.

They have one thing in common - the upper part with handles, or a brace. So let's try to make it first.

Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:

We select a pipe of a suitable diameter.
On the ground or floor, we draw the bends of our rotation.
Pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with corks so that it does not spill out. Bending without sand can damage the metal.
We bend the pipe using gas burner or blowtorch.
We weld a bracket to the bottom of the brace for connection with the auger.
We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul storm.
We grind and paint the workpiece.
We buy a repair kit for the Tonar ice drill in the store.
We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.

The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - the manufacture of the lower part of the mechanism.

shoulder blade

This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting piece cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the down tube. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.

Although such a drill can make a hole in the ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of shortcomings:

dulls quickly;
the absence of an auger makes it often necessary to scoop out sludge;
slowly cuts ice;
difficult to rotate.

Annular

At the base of such a drill is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. A strip of steel is twisted into a spiral and fixed pointwise to the frame. It appears to be a fully functional model.

Framework

This do-it-yourself ice screw is also easy to manufacture. Let's describe this process in detail:

We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
In the lower part, steel bars are welded to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis from the pipe. You should get two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately equal to eighty degrees.
We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives with bolts and nuts.
We adjust the angles of attack of the knives with the help of additional pads made of metal plates and washers of various thicknesses.

Sludge from the holes made by an ice drill of this design will also have to be scooped out with a scoop.

Auger

This one cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main detail of such a mechanism is the base for knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.

Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:

We weld a part to the pipe from above for connection with a brace.
From below we also attach a seat for knives for welding.
From sheet metal cut circles.
We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
We grind and paint the resulting product.
We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
We screw the knives.

Motorization refinement

In this part of our story, we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.

An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Shtil, Hugsvarna or Chinese comrades, also require the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.

Converting a trimmer to an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding bar. The adapter for connecting such a mechanism to the screw is the easiest to make.

Each of the chainsaw or trimmer models requires its own refinement, so there is no one universal recipe manufacturing. It is best to find an experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together with him make a decision and draw a scheme for manufacturing the desired adapter.

No less important for working on winter fishing gearbox for ice drill. With its help, the parameters of the rotation of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.

If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some kind of operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.

An important task is right choice an auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.

It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and the finished product will be used for a long time. It is important to make sure that the finished tool is easy to repair and maintain, parts are available and interchangeable.

During the pouring of the concrete solution, each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the mixture laid in layers with rods of different materials(metal, wood). All work can be done much faster with the help of special devices - vibrators. But the factory vibrating plate purchased for home use, is not always an economically viable option, because it is expensive. To work for her several times, and then leave her to just lie does not make any sense. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a perforator with your own hands. Homemade will speed up the tamping process and improve the quality of the work.

To implement the project in practice, you will need the following materials and tools:

metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
an iron bar or reinforcement (rectangular or circular) of such length that it is possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork structure when pouring concrete;
perforator;
an old drill or a pike, a spatula, a chisel, even a crown;
grinder with discs for metal;
welding machine with electrodes;
ruler or tape measure;
marker.

The minimum power of the perforator should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.

One side of the rod with a cross section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into the perforator cartridge. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. This requires special electrodes.

It is better that the rod also be from of stainless steel. Concrete is an aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is largely exposed to chemicals, and also wears out mechanically faster.

The sequence for manufacturing a tamping nozzle is as follows:

cut off a rectangle of the required dimensions from a steel sheet with a grinder, and a piece of the required length from a round or rectangular rod;
weld the plate to either end of the rod;

cut off with a small margin the seat of the drill;

weld it to the rod.

If you do not use an old drill, then you will need to make a special adapter for a punch chuck, or use machine tools to carve a seat on the free end of the rod. It is easiest to immediately use a drill of the desired length. On the basis of a perforator, more complex devices can also be made, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.

A home-made rammer for small concrete (the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.

Owners of cottages or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes for fence posts or pile supports. For drilling the earth, both hand tools and those equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline) are used. In the first case, the work will take a longer time, and will also require large labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is not cheap, so craftsmen figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a puncher.

But home-made devices, in comparison with factory counterparts, have the following cons:

they can only drill relatively shallow holes of small diameter;
they are not suitable for working on hard ground.

Structurally homemade devices consist of three parts:

perforator;
conventional earth auger;
adapter or reducer.

The last 2 parts of the device can be made by hand. For sale even special nozzle (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful puncher or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.

An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the perforator, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling device. The optimal value of the first parameter for a manual model of a homemade yamobur is 2 kW. It should be taken into account that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the punch chuck or through a gearbox. For models with a power of 2 kW, the latter is not needed.

Optimal for drilling is the number of revolutions of the working nozzle from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil in the area.

Drilling is performed in two ways:

continuous;
with periodic soil extraction.

In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with more torque).

Algorithm for making a homemade drill

To make a drill for holes with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a puncher, such tools and materials:

angle grinder;
a welding machine with a brand of electrodes corresponding to the metal used;
electric drill;
unnecessary perforator drill;
metal reinforcement or rod for the manufacture of rods;
material for the cutting part;
cable and sockets to make a simple extension cord.

The work of converting a perforator into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground is directly in the creation of nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:

cut off a piece of the desired length from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
cut off from the drill its base, designed to install this nozzle in a perforator cartridge;
weld the cut fragment to the tube.

The simplest version is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from the old perforation drill, then you will need to grind a seat from the rod for the tool chuck or for the adapter used.

In addition to the manual model, you can make semblance of a stationary drilling rig , possible variant which is shown in the photo below.

To provide power to a homemade pit drill, you will need to purchase or make your own extension cord.

The operation of the created device is shown in the video.

Manufacturing of the cutting part

Used as knives:

discs from circular saws of a suitable diameter;
ready-made augers from factory motor-drills or agricultural machinery;
a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut out, sharpening them and bending them as needed.

The cutting part can be made removable (bolted) or fixed (welded to the rod). Both options are shown in the photos below.

Cutting part design must meet the following parameters:

be larger in diameter (enough for 5 mm) than this parameter for the holes being created;
it is necessary that the angle between the blades is 25-30 degrees;
the front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45°-60°.

It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool enters the soil mass more easily.

At its core, converting a perforator into a vibrator or an earthen drill consists in making a nozzle that is appropriate in terms of functionality and size. Difficulties can arise only if you independently prepare a seat on the rods for a cartridge or adapter. In general, the manufacture of the considered options will not require much time and effort.

To create a well or carry out other type of excavation, it is possible to use not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists. With a small scale and a sufficient amount of time, simpler equipment can be used.

One of these tools is an earthen drill - a device that appears in many variations and varieties. It is most in demand in garden and summer cottage work, it is also used in various industries.

1 Design and purpose of the drill

An earthmoving drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the ground (to be more precise, the upper layers of it are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), a handle and a drive. At the bottom of the rod is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of, or cutters.

All drills can be conditionally divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with engines.

2 Types of drills

Classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is performed into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.

Petrol drills are the most extensive category of equipment. A gasoline land drill (aka a motor drill) is the best option for domestic use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough. It easily opens soil layers up to 2-3 meters deep, in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the stem extension.

In addition to devices for household use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with high power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or soil with a high content of mountain inclusions.

The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transferred to the rock breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light ones - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel is usually gasoline mixed with oil 92.

The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:

Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4-stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke ones;
Handle for holding;
Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
Screws are usually used as a food-destroying element.

The cost of devices for domestic use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When buying, first of all, you should pay attention to manufacturers such as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.

There are also a large number of companies where it is possible. In general, rent is great option if you only need the device for a few days. To date, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1,000 rubles per day, plus you will need to make a deposit of 5-10 thousand.

Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but also common and well-known.

The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is an electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and disadvantages to the device.

The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike gasoline engine, the electric drive is almost inaudible.

The disadvantages are as follows: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.

For domestic use, this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use, this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat narrows its portability, since any batteries have an unpleasant feature to sit down at the most inopportune moment..

The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent - from 1000 rubles per day.

Hydraulic drills are a category of serious industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electric devices is the reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass problematic soil layers.

In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes the hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.

But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible shaft speed control, which allows you to choose the optimal drilling mode for different soil layers.

The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the "tenderness" of the drive. It is always necessary to keep it clean, as mechanical impurities inside the drive significantly reduce the service life of the device.

The hydraulic earthen drill, in comparison with analogs, differs in several times higher cost. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case one hour of time is paid. Such a rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.

2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?

If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earth drill with your own hands.

To create a homemade drill, you need the following tools:

Welding machine;
Bulgarian (with circles for metal);
Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.

It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:

For the stem - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
For a cutter - a disk from a circular file, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
For the "needle" (guide element) - a drill for metal with a diameter of 15 mm.

A homemade hand drill for earthworks is made as follows:

We make cutters (blades) of the drill. If you take a disk from a circular for this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
To make a cutter from such a disc, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades that the disc was originally equipped with. At first, it is not necessary to sharpen the edges of the cutters, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - sharpness is given after all connections are completed.
In the case of using ordinary metal, make an approximate marking on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which a hand drill for earthworks will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
If there is no clear goal, then the best option "for all occasions" are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
We prepare the fittings for the stem. It is not recommended to make a stem from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will fall apart.
A drill for metal is welded to the end of the rod, it acts as a home-made guide element (the optimal drill length is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
We weld milling cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
We take a grinder, put on an abrasive wheel for metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: we remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicularly to the upper part of the rod.

You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for earthworks with an extendable stem. To do this, a bolt is welded to the handle of the drill, and a nut is welded to the upper part of the rod. A piece is used as an extension metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and stem.

2.2 Design and use of the drill (video)

As a fisherman, you have learned what it's like to carry a Russian ice drill to a bite when it's -20°C outside. As the owner, you experienced the feelings of a man who dug 20 holes with a shovel while building a fence.

Domestic ice screws no longer attract you with their availability and unproductiveness. You come to a store selling small-scale mechanization in order to buy imported products.

The numbers on the price tag are significant, but the amount of work on your site does not correspond to them. Buying an expensive tool for seasonal work is an irrational decision. And you once bought a chainsaw, but it turned out to be not so necessary.

This chainsaw can be turned into a presentable motor drill. Thanks to your ingenuity, you get two tools and save a lot of money.

Characteristics of motor drills

If you doubt whether a homemade tool is worth the time and effort, then you don’t know how much small earthwork can be done in just an hour.

You can drill holes for poles, lanterns, for planting trees, build foundations, decorate the site in accordance with your aesthetic taste and needs, without resorting to renting special equipment and manual digging.

If an earth drill can handle some hard types of ground, it will also overcome ice more than a meter thick. On ice fishing, you will be catching fish, not drilling holes.

Criteria that a good do-it-yourself motor drill has:

Power. For household needs, at least 3 horsepower is enough. Engine power of some modifications reaches 6 liters. with., but it all depends on the operating conditions.
You can operate a compact and light drill yourself, a more powerful one will require the presence of another operator.
Engine capacity plays the same role as power. The more cubic centimeters of the fuel mixture the engine holds, the wider the possibilities of the motor tool.
The main guideline when choosing a volume is the nature of the soil. Alumina, sand, frozen soil require different engine characteristics.
Functionality, drilling ability. Which auger will "pull" the engine? What is the diameter of the auger in millimeters? Is it easy to pick up an auger in the store, or are there difficulties with delivery?
Does the auger package include an extension, is it provided for a specific model? By answering these questions, the user will be able to determine which tool he needs.

If you are interested in making a high-quality motor drill yourself, you need to add that the fruit of your efforts will not depend on talent at all. The process will require knowledge of turning and awareness of the principles of operation of simple mechanisms.

There is nothing difficult in making a motor drill with your own hands. If you understand gearboxes, you can bore the bushing of the desired diameter and build a high-quality mount.

Some abilities are indispensable here. Enlist the help of a familiar locksmith if you do not have practical skills in working with parts.

Chainsaw drill

Faced with a similar question for the first time, you may be surprised that a chainsaw is used not only for sawing wood. This is just one of the areas of application.

From a chainsaw you can get a chic gas cutter, a winch, a drill, a motor for a boat, a debarker, a device for dissolving logs on boards, etc.

Functionality provided design features chainsaws:

unpretentious and reliable engine;
sealed supply of the fuel mixture, the leakage of which is possible only if the chainsaw is turned over;
the main thing is a power take-off system that is understandable to everyone. The output shaft of the chainsaw allows you to attach any attachment.

Therefore, it is advisable to take a chainsaw as the basis for a new device. You don’t need to sacrifice it for the sake of a motor drill: you will disconnect the drilling nozzle, put the saw in and saw the logs.

The chainsaw engine is designed for long-term and intensive use, so you don’t have to worry about a breakdown or poor-quality performance of the task.

Theoretically, you can make a similar motor tool from a trimmer, lawn mower or grinder.

In practice, this is quite difficult due to the unusual design of the gearbox. Problems can arise due to insufficient power take-off or improper rotation of the auger.

Working process

So, how to make a motor drill with your own hands from a chainsaw?

Prepare the chainsaw. In most cases, the Soviet Stihl saw is used.

The auger should rotate at low speed. We need to find a way to reduce the speed so that the output is as much as is necessary for the safe operation of the power drill. Therefore, in order to make a motor drill with your own hands, you will need a gearbox.

V-belt and worm gearboxes perform the same role, despite the design differences. But in this case, worm gear is preferable.

Note: The efficiency of a worm gear is lower than that of a V-belt. The worm gearbox heats up faster, but it can be mounted directly on the base mechanism shaft. No couplings or mechanical gears are needed.

The large gear of the V-belt gearbox must drive the auger!

You have dealt with the gearbox. But where to get it? Better to buy. On the net you can find stories about daredevils who, armed with a grinder, a screwdriver and a hammer, take apart old tools and remove gearboxes from them. Also an option, but unreliable and barbaric.

The chainsaw gearbox and motor must be fastened. At this stage, you may need the help of a locksmith. Usually a sleeve of the required diameter is bored - it serves as a connecting link.

Needs additional fasteners. You can't buy it anywhere. This is handmade, for each device the mount is selected individually.

Left pick up drill and knives to it. The drill and auger must match in the direction of rotation if the device is prefabricated. The most popular are Tonnar, Mora, Hitachi. The cost usually does not exceed 5000 r.

It is advisable to choose knives that are “native” and not made in China, especially if you use a motor drill for drilling holes in winter fishing.

Chinese ones burst, fall off, crack and cannot always be restored by welding.

With a homemade motor tool, you can drill a well with a maximum diameter of 150 mm. What, how and with what to drill, practice will best tell. Everyone chooses for himself best option operation.

Drill from a drill

It is much easier to build a similar device from a drill. High power is a mandatory characteristic of a drill. It is better to use a perforator.

The process will be less laborious, because there is no need to look for a gearbox - it is included in the design of the puncher. In addition, drills are among those devices that are aggregated with a drill without additional parts.

The safety clutch is installed between the output shaft and the shaft of the driven drill. It prevents additional load on the gearbox and auger, so it will not get stuck.

Rotary hammers are always equipped with a reverse, unlike a drill.

Making a motor drill with your own hands from a drill is a little more difficult:

Need pick up a drill with a power of at least 2 kW having a receiver. The brand and year of manufacture do not matter.
Buy a worm gearbox (you can use it) with a gear ratio of 1:25. You can purchase coaxial, but its use can be inconvenient.
Auger - either buy or weld yourself.
Fasten all the elements into a technologically complete design. You may need to ask for help at this point, although with the tools, materials, and logic, you can design your own fasteners.
The main thing is that it is durable, neat and does not interfere with the normal operation of the drill.

The advantage of a chainsaw over a drill is its autonomy. The drill is powered by a network, which narrows the scope of its application, and a “chainsaw” motor drill can be used in winter fishing conditions.

The advantage of a drill: there is no fuel mixture in it, oil too. The drill can work at sub-zero temperatures, and the chainsaw freezes. It takes time to warm it up.

Driller's memo

Creative inventors can mount a motor-, electric drill on a trolley. If the tool is often used on the farm, it will be convenient.

Before self-manufacturing motor tools, calculate the possible costs (reducer, drill, auger, knives).

Compare with the cost of a new auger. If the difference in favor of homemade is significant, it makes sense to make efforts to make it.

The gearbox is not in vain considered the most important element of a motor drill. The number of revolutions at the output must meet the requirements for comfortable operation.

The high RPM will keep the driller on their toes and the auger will continue to rotate even after the unit is turned off. This is dangerous.

On the other hand, low RPMs tend to lengthen the amount of time it takes to complete a particular task. Arms and back will get tired.

Properly selected gearbox is the key to your “friendship” with a motor drill.

Do you know how to choose a two-row according to three criteria?

From you can learn interesting specifications tower crane KB-403.

An article has been prepared for you at the following address, allowing you to make a choice. manual cultivator for giving.

Do not lean on the tool while drilling. It can be hard to control it, especially when the auger hits a stone. Be prepared for this and keep your distance.

Failure to comply with safety precautions threatens with the same consequences, regardless of whether with factory or homemade tool you are working.

Before work, stretch your hands - you will be more resistant to the vagaries of the motor drill.

If old chainsaws, hand drills, drills, grinders are lying around in your attic, do not rush to get rid of them.

These tools will help you craft a new expensive device that will open up a lot of opportunities for you.

The information obtained when watching the video can be put into practice - when creating a motor drill with your own hands:

If during earthworks on the site you need to dig several holes-holes for poles or racks, then the garden drill of the Fiskars Quikdrill model will help to significantly speed up this process.

Electric manual auger hole drill Zubr, Tornado or Fiskars, can greatly facilitate the entire process of land work. In addition, the Fiskars Quikdrill garden drill can drill holes in the soil to depths of 100, 200, 300 or 500mm.

The electric manual auger hole drill Zubr, Tornado or Fiskars can form a hole in the soil for trees and shrubs.

1 Purpose and characteristics

Currently, drilling operations are carried out everywhere due to the ongoing and developing suburban construction. In most cases, units such as the Zubr, Tornado or Fiskars earthen auger hole drill are used in drilling operations in summer cottages and suburban areas.

It is worth noting that the garden drill of the Fiskars Quikdrill model and its analogues such as Bison, Tornado and Fiskars are able to create holes in the ground for:

Installation of fence posts;
Mounting piles;
Pile foundation laying with a depth of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm;
Creation of shallow trenches and technical holes;
Planting shrubs, seedlings and small trees.

The auger homemade hole drill is presented in the form of an electrical device that belongs to the category of tools for cutting.

Common machines such as Bison, Tornado and Fiskars have excellent user reviews and are capable of making holes with depths of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm in materials such as:

A rock;
Concrete;
Brick;
Soil rich in pebbles.

Structurally, a manual earthen auger homemade hole drill is similar to a conventional drill, equipped with a shank and a spiral. Due to the presence of such a spiral, such units as the Zubr, Tornado and Fiskars are able not only to create holes with a depth of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm, but also to remove waste material from the drilling zone.

Earth hand auger hole drill is made of materials with excellent performance strength characteristics. Its cutting part is made using an alloy with a high degree of hardness.

Presented auger manual hole drill Tornado, Zubr, Fiskars, and similar analogues, have several configurations for sharpening the cutting edge.

A distinctive feature of such portable devices as the Tornado, Bison or Fiskars manual hole drill is the presence of an electric motor equipped with two comfortable handles.

The electric motor is equipped with a special clamping type mechanism in order to fix the drilling tool - auger. The auger in such units as the Tornado, Bison or Fiskars manual hole drill is presented in the form of a rod with a continuous helical surface along the entire longitudinal axis.

2 What are the features of a garden electric drill?

The electric drill is presented in the form of an electric downhole machine, which is equipped with an electric motor, which is mounted in the tubular body of the device.

The body provides movement of the bit drive during the work. A well created with the help of such a unit can last a long time.

Reviews about the presented unit are mostly good. All modern products are equipped with an asynchronous oil-filled motor equipped with a squirrel-cage rotor.

Thus, the main parts of an electric drill are an asynchronous oil-filled motor and a spindle, which is located on rolling bearings.

Inside the tubular body there is a package of magnetically conductive steel of the stator mechanism. This compartment is divided with the help of non-magnetic steel packages in those places where the radial ball bearings of the rotor are located.

All rotor packages are covered with a layer of aluminum winding and are included in the hollow rotary shaft of the motor. Inside the motor cavity is filled with a special kind of dry insulating oil.

In addition, the internal cavity of the engine is hermetically sealed off by the upper and lower seals. When the system is started, the seals are filled with oil.

In order to compensate for oil leaks and to maintain a constant internal pressure in the engine, so-called lubricators and three oil seals are placed in its upper part.

Each of the glands is equipped with a cable gland, which is fed from the edge of the contact rod, and, passing through the glands, is connected to the stator winding.

In order for the weight of the rotating shaft to be perceived by the entire mechanism, its lower part is equipped with an installed thrust ball bearing.

A spindle is attached to the bottom cover of the engine. It is equipped with a multi-row axial bearing, which moves due to the presence of ball bearings.

Another shaft moves in the housing, which is hollow inside, and its alignment is carried out with the participation of a number of ball bearings. There is a connection between the spindle shaft and the main motor shaft.

It is implemented using a gear-shaped coupling. There is a hinge type seal where the shafts meet.

It provides a high degree of waterproofing against the ingress of flushing fluid. All axial loads to which the rock-cutting percussion tool (auger) is subjected are completely absorbed by the spindle body and are not transferred to the motor shaft.

All types of asynchronous motors that are used in electric drills have a rather limited operating speed range.

The change in this parameter directly depends on the speed with which the rotor is able to slide with respect to the stator field. Thus, the value of the motor torque directly depends on the square of the input voltage.

When the voltage is reduced, there is a significant reduction in torque. Based on this, the voltage drop during short-term types of loads must be compensated by increasing the voltage at the input to the motor by 10-15% of the nominal level.

Depending on the characteristics and type of the engine, the voltage at the terminals of the electric drill can be from 1000 to 1200 V. At the moment when the engine starts, there is a significant reduction in torque - this is the so-called dip zone.

This parameter is then restored when the unit returns to normal operating pace. Due to the fact that the engine is started with a focus on a small degree of load, the flywheel moment of all parts involved in the rotation is very small.

However, even if the torque is greatly reduced, the engine is able to accelerate the speed of the working shaft in a matter of seconds.

By the way, the efficiency of such an engine, when testing the rated load, can be about 70%. This is due to the low level of mechanical losses during the movement of the spindle on fixed points of support.

The power supply to the drilling engine is carried out using a sectioned cable. It is placed in the inner channel of the drill string.

The current is supplied using a three- or two-core cable. Instead of the third wire, a drill string can protrude.

It should be borne in mind that the cable supply of an electric garden drill is generally considered one of the weakest nodes of the presented system.

The voltage may drop due to the broken tightness of the cable segments and their further contamination. Violations in the operation of the electrical circuit are observed when the contacts made using copper are broken in those places where they are connected to the coupling.

It is worth noting that a portable manual garden drill has a number of advantages, which are expressed in:

Facilitation of conditions during the operation of the drill column;
Reduced wear located in the well;
Minimization of power costs at idle.

In addition, the operating mode of the unit does not come into contact with the fluid flow for. Therefore, the device shows the greatest efficiency in the case when the hole in the ground is completely cleared of the sludge accumulated there.

In addition, the operating cycle of the device does not depend on the quality and characteristics of the mud used for drilling. This property implies the use of the product in working with weighted solutions.

The communication channel for monitoring the work performed by the unit is presented in the form of a current duct. This allows in some modifications of the device to remotely carry out drilling operations.

Due to the fact that the manual electric drill is presented in the form of an oil-filled engine, all its parts work in an environment that is isolated from the ingress of sludge.

Based on this, the rotational elements of the screw are least exposed to harmful corrosive and abrasive processes.

Among the disadvantages of such a device, a rather high cost can be distinguished, compared with mechanical counterparts. Possibility of getting damages and distortions due to sticking in the wellbore and a low degree of reliability of the cable connection.

Sergey, 45 years old, Samara:

I decided to equip my country house household plot and put up a mesh fence. In order to make small wells for digging in columns, I used a hand-held electric drill, which I borrowed from a neighbor.
He completed all the work in the shortest possible time, while not spending a lot of effort. Excellent unit. I read reviews - now many people have one on the farm, so I decided to buy it myself. I advise everyone!

Vladimir, 53 years old, Voronezh:

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