How to sand wood properly - woodworking. Sandpaper: types of grit and how to sand correctly? What kind of sandpaper to sand wood

Wood has many useful qualities and aesthetic properties and thanks to them is the most popular material in the construction and decoration of houses.

In the production of wooden, finishing panels, it is not always possible to obtain a perfectly flat surface, on the boards there are almost invisible (but clearly visible after painting) waves from the machine, in the case of a wooden floor, there are drops at the joints.

All these errors are easily corrected by grinding, the medium abrasive will smooth them out, and the finer one will finally remove them. And in this article, we will analyze which tool is best to use to effectively solve various problems.

Wood pre-sanding tools

Tape Sander(LSHM) with which it is good to do rough grinding on molded products. By the way, the larger the lower part of the machine along which the tape runs, the smoother the grinding will be, and also pay attention to the speed, which is too low for inexpensive models and will not allow you to achieve a standard.

Photo 1. Belt sander (LSHM)

Straight grinder (PShM) or vibrating is a great option for fine workmanship. The reciprocating movements of the sole with an abrasive plate quickly remove the top layer of wood. For corners, you will need its variety - delto grinding tool with a sole in the form of an iron.

Photo 2. Straight grinder (PShM)

Eccentric (orbital) grinder (EShM)- an option even better than PShM. Thanks to the reciprocating movements and the offset of the center of rotation, it allows you to perform processing at a very high level. Circles for it can be purchased from 80 to 320 units, i.e. This tool allows you to complete all the steps yourself.

Photo 3. Eccentric (orbital) grinder

Angle grinder (angle grinder) using a grinder, you can remove a fairly large layer of wood or old paint(for example, during restoration). Also for this type of tool there is a great variety of nozzles (brush, disk, petal). And this means that even the most inaccessible places can be sanded, for example, between two chamfers of imitation timber.

Photo 4. Angle grinder (angle grinder)

Grinding and calibrating machine. It is used in production for preliminary grinding. The pressure iron allows you to remove a fixed layer of wood, open the pores. Not suitable for intermediate work.

Photo 5. Grinding and calibrating machine

abrasive bar, sandpaper of different grain sizes on the pads, metal wool - all this is indispensable for various chamfers, roundings, hard-to-reach places and corners. And with the help of these simple things, you can easily perform intermediate grinding, shake off the raised pile from the plate.

Photo 6. Abrasive stone for grinding

Rules to follow

Before starting work, it is necessary to evaluate the material, which must be dry (no more than 14%), the high humidity of the material will certainly affect the quality of grinding.

If during the inspection you find spider-like cracks, traces of a cutter, and irregularities, then you should take an abrasive from sixty to eighty units and, in the process, also grind with one hundred and twentieth, one hundred and fiftieth grains. This is the standard when a fine grain removes traces of a large one. Those. the best result can be achieved by using two or even three tapes of different grain sizes.

Specialists always perform these operations if wood with a thickness of 16 mm or more, and thinner material, for example, a lining 13 mm thick, are ground only with a medium-sized abrasive (120-150), otherwise the thickness can be greatly reduced and after processing the paintwork material, bending and torsion can be obtained. It is worth knowing that soft woods, which are easy to process, need to be sanded very carefully, because. any pressing will leave a mark, a dent that will appear after painting.

Grinding wheels, belts, sandpaper must be changed during operation, because. their wear will drastically degrade the quality of work. If visible stripes remain on the surface, then it is worth taking a rag and removing dust from the surface as often as possible. When using LSHM and ESHM, do not hold the tool in one place. These machines require a lot of work. Otherwise, "failures" on the face of the board are guaranteed to you.

A little secret from practice: to evenly sand the surface, take a regular pencil and apply strokes. At proper processing they will completely disappear.

We hope that our advice will help you choose the right tools for grinding and produce it with high quality. Remember that 70% of the success of painting depends on pre-treatment. Almost all troubles can be avoided at this stage, but at this stage they can be laid.

Wooden products on certain stage almost always require leveling and polishing. In the course of such work, all traces of glue, protruding pile, bumps, chips and other defects must be removed from the tree. Usually, the wood is sanded before applying an adhesive, protective or decorative material (primer, paint, varnish, etc.) to it.

The grinding process has many subtleties and pitfalls, which does not hurt to know in advance, doing work at home.

What and how to grind

The goal of wood sanding is to make it as quick and easy as possible. effectively remove defects without leaving noticeable deep scratches. To do this, you can use special tools - now their price is not too high.

In free sale you can find several varieties of grinders:

• tape;
• oscillatory;
• grinders (UShM);
• surface grinding;
• orbital.

On the grinder, you can install not only abrasive wheels, but also brushes. So, nylon brushes are actively used for grinding wood. They allow you to make the surface not only smooth, but also highlight the texture of the tree, choosing softer fibers. This process is called brushing.

For large surfaces made of wood and materials based on it (veneer, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood), belt and surface grinders are best suited.

Decorative items, furniture, toys, frames, many still prefer to grind by hand, and this is not such a bad way - it allows you to achieve a perfectly smooth surface efficiently and without unnecessary expenses. At least, when working with your own hands, you will not need to think about where to get it (ask a neighbor, buy it in a store, rent it, leaving a deposit).

Belt type machine

Tape machines are so named because the sandpaper here is made in the form of a tape and it is constantly moving thanks to the rollers. This machine is designed for intermediate and rough sanding. But in order to achieve perfect smoothness and a perfect finish (this is especially true for those involved in the manufacture of furniture), you will have to additionally use other grinding equipment.

Can be installed on a belt sander different types sandpaper. And, for example, when inserting fine-grained sandpaper, it is quite possible to achieve a result that is normal for carpentry that goes for painting. And, say, to eliminate long scratches, you will have to carry out stepped grinding, changing the grain several times.

The belt sander has excellent performance. But at the same time, it should be recognized that the tape on it is in such a way that not all points and recesses of the surface of the board can be properly processed.

Even with a significant width of the belt, it grinds mainly with its center. The parts of the tape behind and in front are not used for this. They are in a slightly raised position, and their main function is to feed to the driving roller mechanisms.

Another obvious drawback of tape equipment is a solid mass; it is quite difficult to perform any actions with such machines on weight, processing vertical products.

There are tape machines for grinding wood and such a minus as high noise - it will not be very comfortable to work without earplugs or headphones. And one more important point: if you leave the machine in one place for a long time during work, a fairly noticeable hole will appear.

Surface grinder

Even sanding large woodwork with a surface grinder is pretty fast. The key organ of the apparatus is a flat, rather large plate (sole), to which the desired abrasive is attached. This design is famous for the almost complete absence of dead zones (that is, zones that cannot be reached with a machine and processed tolerably) - any corners are relatively easy to grind.

The demand for flat grinders among wood craftsmen is determined by their moderate price and availability of equipment. When choosing such a machine, you should pay attention to such parameters as motor power (usually we are talking about indicators in the range from 150 to 300 watts), weight, amplitude and frequency of the sole stroke.

Manually

Sanding wood by hand, of course, requires a lot of labor and physical effort. But this method of grinding is a priori less aggressive and allows you to fully control the process. Even in hard-to-reach places - in corners and on complex curvilinear bends - you can get decent quality grinding when choosing a manual method.

With the so-called interlayer grinding of finishing coatings, manual work has no alternatives at all - only it eliminates the risk of damage to the already applied finish. Manual processing (when compared with grinders) allows you to get the most even and smooth surface, although it takes many times more time.

pads and sponges

Block - extremely useful device when manually polished, its presence and proper application can speed up the process. The block, as a rule, is an ordinary wooden block wrapped with sandpaper. Its abrasive side should be on the outside, and the non-abrasive side should be attached to the bar with a large stapler or PVA glue. Some hardware stores sell ready-made pads with sandpaper, that is, you can not do it yourself, but simply buy it.

For sanding wood, polyurethane foam sponges are also used. They are more convenient to use than emery, as you can rinse them under water after work. Abrasive sponges and cloths are great for fine manual sanding of wood, allowing you to process the smallest details. They can also be used for sanding primed or varnished wood.

Sandpaper selection

What is the best way to sand wood? Which sandpaper to choose for your work? In fact, these are not such simple questions. Sandpaper today is made from different materials:

• pomegranate (very rare);
• silicon carbide;
• ceramics;
• electrocorundum and others.

Garnet is characterized by the fact that it grinds faster than all other materials, but gently grinds the tree. And silicon carbide, according to experts, is great for sanding the lacquer and removing debris and dust stuck in it.

Ceramic sandpaper is usually used when sanding wood with grinders. Skins with a ceramic working surface are among the hardest and most expensive abrasives. The same can be said about corundum.

But the most important classification of sandpaper is the classification by grain size. At the moment, coarse-grained, medium-grained and fine-grained sandpapers are distinguished.

In the Russian Federation, the marking of emery products complies with the ISO-6344 standard - grit is indicated by the letter “P” and a number. The more this number is (it shows exact amount sieve wires in one inch), the smaller the grain size. And, accordingly, the product becomes even smoother after grinding with such sandpaper. Usually this marking is indicated on the packaging.

It is advisable to buy several types of papers for polishing wood at once. Coarse-grained paper is considered to be paper, which is marked with a number from 40 to 80, it is suitable for rough processing. In the marking of medium-grained sandpaper, there are numbers from 100 to 150, and in the marking of fine-grained sandpaper, there are numbers in the range from 180 to 220.

Note! You can find marking according to GOST with the letter M. It means fine-grained sandpaper.

In addition, sandpapers come with closed or open filling. The former are very densely covered with grain - that is, their abrasive is more effective and efficient. And on the basis of sandpaper with an open filling, there are much fewer grains (usually their share is no more than 60% of the entire surface of the canvas), so it is not so effective. But on the other hand, the presence of empty space between the grains does not allow the sandpaper to clog quickly - this prolongs its service life.

Thus, sandpaper with a closed coating is suitable for hard surfaces, and with an open one - for more pliable and soft.

Dry and wet grinding

For sanding wood before applying finishing coatings and after them, two relevant techniques are used - dry and wet.

Wet sanding involves applying a liquid to the grainy surface of the sandpaper. The role of such a working fluid can be an ordinary soap solution, white spirit and mineral oil.

Abrasive during wet grinding becomes clogged much more slowly and, accordingly, its service life increases. But wet way also involves the formation of an unpleasant mess of chips and foam. In this case, the home craftsman will have to periodically wipe the wooden product.

Manual grinding rules

Do-it-yourself sanding should be started with the coarsest sandpaper available in order to eliminate obvious defects from the surface of the wood. But here it is still necessary to take into account the nature of the damage that needs to be eliminated.

Having reached the edge of the surface to be treated, be sure to grind off sharp corners. Soon, as a result of exposure to coarse-grained abrasive, dust hills will begin to appear on the tree. They should be carefully removed with a vacuum cleaner. Then you can proceed to processing with the next sandpaper, which has a medium grit.

This processing is carried out according to the same principles as described above. The final stage is grinding with an abrasive with the finest grain. After that, the wooden product should become completely even, no flaws should remain on it.

Grinding machines will achieve excellent results, but often cause bad surprises.

We will tell you how to avoid the most common mistakes when applying them.

If you do everything right, with the help of sanding with your own hands you will achieve a very smooth surface. It is worth at least a little mistake, and you have to correct the defects.

The tips below will help you minimize this risk.

Correspondence of abrasive grit to wood properties

Potential Problem: Deciding that sanding dense, finely vascularized woods like walnut and cherry is best with fine-grained paper, you put a sanding drum in your drill chuck, wrapping it with a fresh piece of #220 sandpaper, or you attach a new disc to the base of your eccentric sander and start sanding, firmly pressing the part to quickly remove saw marks on the edges. Suddenly you smelled burning wood. The top photo shows the result of such grinding, only slightly exaggerated for clarity. Such a part, as a rule, has to be thrown away.

Correct Method: Avoid the problem by using sanding discs or drums with a coarser grit such as 80 grit. After turning on the machine, move the part evenly, avoiding strong pressure, especially on the ends. You need to move the part at a constant speed, avoiding stops in order to prevent the occurrence of burns.

Vertical spindle machines with an oscillating drum are better at sanding hard and dense woods. The up and down movements of the spindle help dissipate the heat generated during grinding, unlike a conventional sanding drum mounted on drilling machine, but in this case it is necessary to constantly move the part.

If you need to grind the contours of the sawn part to the lines of the template, first saw it with a minimum allowance (no more than 1 mm) in order to minimize the grinding time and prevent overheating.

When do you need hand sanding?

Potential problem: You sand a primed surface or a dried coat of varnish before applying the next one, using sandpaper number 220. Accidentally, the abrasive rubs through the varnish layer and touches the stained wood. Now you will have to completely remove the coating to bare wood and start over the damaged surface.

The right method: first determine whether intermediate sanding of the finish layers is necessary.

Coatings such as nitro varnish partially dissolve the previously applied layer, so you can do without grinding. If you chose polyurethane without sanding, apply a second coat immediately after the first coat dries, which usually has a rough surface. After the second coat has dried, lightly sand it by hand with #320 elastic backing to create a roughness for good adhesion of the next coat. Ready formulations for priming wood require especially gentle and careful grinding.

Contouring

Potential Problem: You are grinding a workpiece with a long smooth curve on a vertical spindle machine. When you stop to admire your work, you find a lot of ugly bumps on the curved edge.

The correct method: in this example, for clarity, we have shown a somewhat exaggerated result of such grinding. Always use a sanding drum largest diameter suitable for the bend radius. Instead of machine grinding, it is possible to successfully process such parts manually, using trimmings from sawing out a curved contour.

With coarse sandpaper, remove sawing marks from the edge of such trimming, trying not to change the outline of the edge. Then stick strips of sandpaper alternately on this edge, successively increasing the grit number from 60 to 180-220 units.

Sand the veneer carefully

Potential problem: By gluing the edge strips to a thin veneer lettuce, you are going to remove the protruding edges of the strips with a sander. In one place, which took a little longer to tinker with, the veneer on the part was rubbed through, exposing the lower layers of the substrate. The correct method: do not tilt the sander when it is at the edge of the part and do not press it against the surface, so as not to damage the thin layer of veneer and the glued edge strip. If you are afraid of accidentally ruining your work, sand the edge plates flush by hand using #220 or finer grit sandpaper.

You can also cut off the excess veneer with a chisel, pressing it against the surface of the part with a flat edge, and finally sand it with sandpaper No. 220.

How to keep the surface flat

Potential problem: when gluing a board from allotment boards of the same thickness, it is not easy to achieve a perfectly even and flat surface with imperceptible gluing lines. And if you move the grinder back and forth along the glue line for a long time, trying to smooth out irregularities, you can get an even worse result - uneven gluing lines turn into noticeable depressions.

The right method: grinders (especially belt grinders) are not the best the best remedy for leveling surfaces. When gluing the board, carefully check all glue joints and correct the position of the individual plot boards before the glue sets.

If the problem cannot be solved in this way, then after drying the shield with the help of an eye, determine the boundaries of the strip, the width of which is approximately twice the width of the sole of your grinder on either side of the glue line, and work the surface gradually, moving the tool in zigzags across the gluing line, so that over it no recess was formed.

How to keep your profile sharp

Potential problem: You are confident that you will be able to keep the running grinder at the same angle in order to work out all the recesses on the profile part. Unfortunately, the profile lines lost their clarity, and flat areas appeared on the convex places.

The correct method: For simple profiles (such as fillets or fillets), make a profile sanding block out of dense foam by shaping it into the desired shape with a band saw and sticking on sandpaper (some types of glue will dissolve the foam).

Another way to achieve an excellent result is to divide a complex profile into several simple parts and process each of them with a separate profile block of the appropriate shape. This is not a very fast way, but it guarantees the clarity of the lines and the smoothness of the curved surfaces of the profile.

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When the part is ready, its surface should be carefully sanded.

On solid wood parts, it is customary to smooth out saw cuts or remove traces of glue, sand where chips have broken off, or smooth out protruding wood fibers with the finest sandpaper before the wood is covered with stain or varnish. Even facings made of plywood or veneer, which have an almost smooth, flawless surface, can only be varnished without pre-sanding as a last resort.

Solid wood panels and parts may have almost imperceptible irregularities, which will become clearly visible after applying varnish, stain or other protective agent.

It is clear that grinding should not lead to the appearance of new scratches and grooves. You will avoid this danger if you use the appropriate sandpaper and stone for your product.

Cycling

When planing blanks from solid wood, more or less noticeable furrows remain after the planer. It is best to eliminate them in cycles.

Many home craftsmen prefer to process surfaces with only one cycle and completely abandon sandpaper. A well-sharpened scraper can clean planed surfaces and give them an almost flawless look.

The cycle is a metal rectangle with a cutting edge sharpened at a right angle, which is carried out along the surface. The cutting edge is blunt, so it needs to be sharpened from time to time. First, a chamfer (the beveled side of the cutting part) is ground on a whetstone or wheel, then the cycle is turned over, placed flat on the bar and in this position they drive over the stone in straight or circular motions, grabbing the cutting edge of the edge.

When working, the cycle is taken with two hands so that the thumbs are in the middle of the face facing you. Always place the cycle at an angle and guide in the direction of the wood fibers. Only use the scraper on solid wood, plywood or veneer. Chipboards quickly dull the cycles and leave notches on them. It is better to use sandpaper for processing putty surfaces.

The cycles clean out the bumps left by the planer, or the sticking out fibers of the wood.

Moisturizing the wood and applying a primer

Whether you will be sanding scrapers or otherwise, in any case, before sanding the surface of solid wood or plywood or veneer parts, it must be moistened.

For this it is better to use warm water(you can even hot, if the part is made of solid wood). Then you need to wait until the parts are completely dry. Small dents under the influence of water will disappear.

But the incised wood fibers, pressed to the surface of the part before wetting, swell and, having dried out a little, stand upright. Therefore, the surface, which seemed flawlessly smooth before wetting, often becomes rough, fleecy.

After grinding, the surface becomes smooth again.

Primer for fast sanding

The surface of a wooden part, regardless of whether it retains its natural look or is covered with stain or varnish, is primed.

The primer closes all the pores, as if sealing them.

As a result, the hygroscopicity of wood is reduced, and the paint lays down better and more evenly than on an unprimed surface.

Make sure the room you work in is dry, dust-free and not too cool. This is how you create ideal conditions for work. It is more convenient to apply the primer with a soft flat brush.

The primer dries in about half an hour. But wait at least an hour before you start sanding the primed surface with the finest sandpaper (No. 240). Work only in the direction of the grain of the wood, change the sanding more often and beat out the fine dust that forms during sanding.

The surface, which seemed impeccably smooth, after moistening became rough, fleecy.

On the prepared surface, carefully apply the diluted primer with a flat brush.

Sanding flat surfaces

When sanding smooth surfaces, it is important to use sandpaper correctly: too rough sandpaper will scratch the wood, sandpaper without a boss treats the surface unevenly. The boss provides an even fit of the skin to the tree over a relatively large area. Usually use a cork boss. But a small wooden block with even, smooth edges is also quite suitable. You can also use special holder pads made of hard rubber or plastic: they consist of two parts - upper and lower, between which sandpaper is laid.

First coarse, then fine

To clean rough cuts with a saw, a sandpaper with a coarse-grained abrasive coating (grit 100) is used. Planed surfaces are sanded with 120 grit sandpaper. For fine, final sanding, use 180 or 240 grit sandpaper. Sand the wood all the time in the direction of grain growth and without undue effort. Experienced craftsmen avoid sanding surfaces for a long time, while their movements are very light, almost without pressure. As a result, the tiny ends of the fibers are only pressed against the surface, but not cut off.

A special grinding device - the so-called "sand plates" of different sizes and grain sizes. Each is a steel plate with tiny "skittles" protruding on the surface with sharp edges. When grinding with such a plate due to long distance a lot of sawdust is formed between the "pins", and their cutting edges remain sharp for a long time. In the case of "sand plates" is noticeably "aggressive" than ordinary sandpaper.

If the surfaces big parts they are polished by running a boss wrapped in sandpaper over them, then when processing small parts they act differently: a piece of skin of a suitable size is fixed on a workbench with strips of adhesive tape and drawn over the skin with a detail. This avoids rounded edges. Before proceeding with further processing of the part, after grinding it should be thoroughly cleaned of dust.

When sanding even surfaces, use a special boss so that the skin is evenly pressed against the wood.

Small parts are best sanded by running along the sandpaper attached to the workbench.

Auxiliary devices made of cork and plastic for fixing sandpaper. "Sand plates" are glued to the overlay-handle.

Curved lines and profiles

Sanding complex edges and profiles requires a special flair and the right sanding tool. A boss with an overlay of sandpaper will not work here. It is often more convenient to work simply by taking the paper in your hand and holding its edges between your fingers so that they do not scratch the part.

When processing parts complex shapes it is advisable to use homemade "files". They are made in the following way. Narrow strips of sandpaper are glued onto planks or round sticks. With these "files" you can cleanly process the smallest roundings or the narrowest recesses on turned parts.

For sanding rounded surfaces, emery sponges are well suited, which are sold along with sandpaper in hardware stores. Sponges have on both sides an abrasive coating of coarse, medium or fine grit, and a thin soft pad between the coatings gives the sponge a special flexibility and elasticity. There are also grinding sponges that are thicker and rather hard: they are designed for grinding even surfaces without defects.

Wood dust from the sponge is removed by crushing it. You can also wash the sponge, but before using it again, you must wait until it is completely dry.

Coarse, medium and fine grit abrasive pads are especially good for rounding and profiles.

The emery sponges are so flexible that they tightly fit any rounding and even multi-step profiles.

If you hold the sandpaper with your hand, make sure that the edges of the paper do not scratch the wood.

Emery "files" can be made from strips of suitable sandpaper glued to strips or round sticks.

roundings

The processing of a wooden part is usually completed by slightly rounding its edges, that is, the sharp edges of the transitions from one plane to another or from the front surface to the end surface are slightly grinded.

Be very careful and careful when doing this work, as you can get hurt on the sharp edges of the part. Do not allow sudden movements when turning over the part, which can lead to it hitting some hard object and, accordingly, to damage. After completing the rounding, the treated surface can be varnished. Note that on the rounded edge the varnish lays down with a uniform film and holds better, while on the sharp edge of the transition from one plane to another this film is very thin and often breaks.

Make rounds using sandpaper only with a boss, which is directed at a 45 degree angle to both surfaces. The boss provides uniform grinding and rounding.

Make sure that the work, if possible, is carried out in the direction of the wood fibers, and on the end sides - from the middle to the edges. When sanding along the edge, you need to press the boss with sandpaper a little against the surface so as not to break off the wood fibers.

When rounding edges, drive the boss wrapped with sandpaper at an angle to the side edges or with light pressure along the edge.

In the manufacture of wood products, the question often arises: “How to polish a tree?” using polish to give protective coating. Most often, polishing is used in the decoration of furniture and handicrafts. The polished surface preserves the texture of the wood and gives the product a beautiful appearance.

Application of polishing for finishing

For finishing, several methods are used for which, substances are used:

• varnish;
• drying oil;
• wax paste.

When finishing wood products, when varnish is used for polishing, a protective layer is formed, which gives the surface a marketable appearance. The polishing process consists in applying a special composition of polish containing three times less resin than in varnish. The coating formed on the wood has a transparent structure and a glossy tint.

When choosing a finishing and polishing method, the type of wood must be taken into account. For the manufacture of furniture, the most suitable types of wood:

• mahogany;
• birch;
• pears;
• boxwood;
• maple;
• apple trees.

Also widely used, but quite laborious in the processing of the breed:

• oak;
• pines.

Products used to polish wood

For polishing wood in commercial enterprises, a large list of various finishing substances is offered:

1. Shellac varnish - used for furniture finishing.
2. Alkyd varnish - used to coat parquet.
3. Acrylic varnish - used for processing wood products.
4. Polyurethane varnish - used to protect wooden products from precipitation.
5. Nitrolak - used for processing wooden products.

You can make a polish for polishing wood at home using certain substances:

• shellac resin - 60 g;
• ethyl alcohol 90 * - 500 ml.

The manufacturing process is quite simple. Resin is poured into a glass container and poured with alcohol, mixed well, closed with a tight lid and infused until the resin is completely dissolved. Further, the composition is filtered and used for its intended purpose for polishing wooden products.

Polishing technology

The process of polishing wood is carried out in several stages:

1. surface grinding;
2. soil application;
3. polishing;
4. polishing.

Surface grinding

The sanding process is not particularly difficult, but it takes a long time to give the wood required type. The surface of the wood intended for finishing should not have burrs, chips, cracks and other irregularities. To do this, the tree is processed in 3 stages:

• sandpaper No. 46-60;
• sandpaper No. 80-100;
• sandpaper No. 140-170,

until the surface is smooth and glossy.

Grinding is done wooden block wrapped with sandpaper along the grain of the wood. After grinding, the surface is wiped with a dry clean rag, moistened with water and wiped with a dry rag again. A pause is maintained until complete drying for 2 hours and processed with sandpaper No. 120-140 until the remaining wood fibers are completely removed. If necessary, the operation is repeated several times until the wood is given a glossy finish.

Ground application

The priming process is carried out using a special swab by applying varnish to wooden surface. The tampon must be made in without fail from linen fabric (does not leave fabric villi).

All workflows are performed in the following sequence:

• the swab is impregnated with varnish and with its help the entire surface of the wood is processed until a homogeneous coating is formed;
• a pause is maintained until the varnish is completely dry, cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a clean, dry rag;
• an additional 2 coats of varnish are applied;
• a composition is being prepared, consisting of 1 hour polish and 1 hour varnish, which covers the entire surface;
• wood is dried for 2 days.

Polishing

The polishing process consists in applying polish to the wood and is performed in the following sequence:

• a small amount is applied to a linen swab vegetable oil for better sliding on the treated surface;
• with a swab moistened with polish, the entire surface is gently wiped;
• the processing operation is carried out 3 times with pauses after applying each layer until the polish is completely dry;
• the wood is processed with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a dry rag (after each time the varnish is applied).

Polishing

In order to polish the wood to an ideal state, work operations are carried out several times until the desired result is achieved.

The following work is being done:

• the tree is processed with fine-grained sandpaper dipped in vegetable oil;
• a small amount of vegetable oil and polish is applied to the swab and the entire surface is treated (the operation is repeated several times).

When carrying out polishing operations, when varnish or polish is used, it is necessary to observe all technological process to create a durable, even, glossy wood finish. If you have certain skills and appropriate substances, you can finish wooden products at home.

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