House made of cinder block wall thickness. How to build a house from cinder block with your own hands

What could be more pleasant than the feeling that you are a "jack of all trades"! Build a garage or shed personal plot almost every man can do it on his own. The main thing is to choose a building material that is easy to work with, and the result will satisfy the requirements for durability and thermal conductivity.

First, consider what materials you can build an outbuilding:

1. wood
2. brick
3. foam concrete or aerated concrete
4. shell rock or cinder block

A wooden building (if it is not a temporary shed) is more suitable for residential buildings or baths, and not for a garage. A brick building will be more durable, but it will require significantly larger financial investments and building experience. More affordable options will be the construction of outbuildings from foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks, sawn shell rock, but still the cheapest will be laying walls from cinder block, which is a versatile material used for these purposes for many years.

One of the main advantages of cinder blocks is their relative cheapness and the fact that masonry can be done with minimal building skills. The thermal conductivity of the block can be increased if, during construction, all cavities are covered with expanded clay or other loose insulation.

However, there are several parameters in which cinder blocks lose. In particular, these are:

• environmental friendliness of the material (it is better to choose a manufacturer that indicates the composition of the filler),
• poor adhesion of blocks with masonry and plaster mortars,
• increased susceptibility to moisture.

Without exterior finish cinder block walls will not last long, so their advantage as a cheap building material can be offset by the cost of facade work. The interiors have the same problems with finishing. The plaster will fall off over time, and the wallpaper does not adhere well to the material due to the uneven surface.

Cinder block wall masonry: material calculation.

Cinder block, unlike foam blocks, is produced in a standard size - 39x19x19 cm, which is equal to about four bricks, or half the size for partitions.

The strength of the cinder block directly depends on the composition and percentage of voidness, so it is quite difficult to talk about a specific figure. To test the strength, you can try to throw a block from a height of one and a half meters, and if it does not crack, then the quality is good.

The price of one wall standard cinder block is from 20 to 40 rubles, depending on the composition of the raw material and the method of production.

The calculation of the required number of blocks is quite simple. The area of ​​​​the walls and the volume of masonry are calculated. There are 72 standard blocks in one cubic meter. If the laying of cinder block walls is provided in one block (wall thickness 38 cm), then 30 pieces will go to one m 2 of the wall, and if in the floor of the block, then only 18.

High-quality masonry is provided by properly mixed cement mortar with the addition of a plasticizer (you can use the usual detergent or clay). One cubic meter of mortar is enough for laying 4.5 cubic meters of blocks.

Technology of laying walls from cinder block.

In order for the walls of the blocks to turn out to be even, it is necessary to adhere to some mandatory rules.

Rule one. The foundation for the walls of the blocks should have the most even surface and be slightly larger than the width of the blocks.

There is a set of mandatory tools needed to work with blocks: a level, a plumb line, a rubber mallet, a mooring cord, a trowel, and ordering.

Before starting laying on a foundation or plinth, cut-off waterproofing is made on a bitumen basis, in the form of waterproofing mastic or mortar (the choice in building markets is huge). This layer will protect against moisture penetration into the wall from below. If roofing material is used, then the sheets are overlapped with a margin of 10-15 cm.

The blocks are stacked so that the edge hangs slightly over the plinth. It is optimal if the blocks protrude beyond the base by about 5 cm.

The masonry process begins with marking the location of door and window openings and internal partitions.

Beacon blocks are the first to be placed at the corners and, using a level and a plumb line, align the corners of the house at 90 degrees. This is a very important stage, on which the evenness of the masonry depends.

After that, the corner blocks can be laid on the mortar, the layer thickness of which is approximately 2 cm. Once again, we make sure that the blocks are level.

For the accuracy of fitting all other blocks, a mooring cord is used, which is fastened with a nail and weight on the corner blocks. So it will be convenient to beat each next block with a rubber mallet so that it is clearly flush with the cord. The installation time of the blocks on the applied solution should not exceed 10 -12 minutes. The solution is applied to the bottom row and side of the stacked block. The block is oriented downwards with voids (if the option of backfilling with expanded clay is not provided).

The solution that is squeezed out when fitting the block is necessarily collected with a trowel and used further.

That's all the rules that will help make the walls of your "fortress" smooth and reliable.

04/10/2014 at 14:04

The house is a protection for all its inhabitants, from external harmful influences, whether it be precipitation, temperature changes, wind. Therefore, high-quality home improvement is a guarantee of a pleasant atmosphere and tranquility. To keep the heat in the house, wall insulation will help, but how thick should the wall insulation be?

Rules for building walls from cinder blocks

The choice of material for insulation

Today, there are a large number of various products on the market, and the choice is limited only by your imagination and wallet.

The main criteria for choosing a heater:

• How are you going to insulate, outside or inside?
• The material from which the house is made
• Climatic features of the area
• Your budget for the purchase of insulation

Most popular materials for insulation, as a rule, have universal properties that can provide reliable protection in different conditions. Such materials have low thermal conductivity, have good sound insulation, are quite strong and durable.

Styrofoam is a cellular material with a low heat transfer coefficient. The average thickness of such insulation for a wall is 50-100 mm. Styrofoam boards are characterized by their safety, as they are used for packaging food products. It does not deform, does not rot, absorbs vibration and sound.

Styrofoam is a versatile and budget-friendly insulation on the market. But it has disadvantages - it can easily catch fire from exposure to a spark, and is also often attacked by rodents.

Extruded polystyrene foam— this material consists of homogeneous cells filled with air or other gas. Due to this structure, expanded polystyrene almost does not transmit heat, has excellent water resistance and withstands high mechanical loads. Walls insulated with such material are protected from the appearance of fungus or mold. The addition to the cellular structure, during manufacture, will make it absolutely non-combustible.

Mineral wool- probably at the moment will be the best choice for home insulation. Because it has all the necessary properties for insulation. It is resistant to low temperatures, fireproof, retains heat in the house, and is also resistant to the development of fungus and mold. All this makes it one of the leaders in the choice of insulation. It is not expensive at all, and it is also environmentally friendly.

polyurethane foam- used in the form of plates or applied by spraying on the wall. Adheres well to any surface, creating a uniform and even layer. It is an excellent solution for home insulation. It is usually used for insulation of private houses or for industrial premises. But all the pluses have their drawbacks, it is quite expensive and deteriorates under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Polyurethane foam gained its popularity due to its small thickness, with high insulating properties. The thickness of the insulation is usually from 2 to 10 mm.

Effect of material density on its properties

Density, as we know from physics, determines the weight of a material to its volume. At high coefficients, a tangible load is created on the base, do not forget about it. Also, with a less dense material, better thermal protection is possible. One example is timber with characteristics of 510 kg/m3 has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.15 W/m*K, and mineral wool at 50 kg/m3 - 0.35 W/m*K.

All heaters are divided into 4 groups according to density:

• Very light - a vivid example of foam, with its porous structure.
• Lungs - Mineral wool.
• Medium - foam glass.
• Dense - Derived from basalt fiber.

It should be noted that if you choose light or very light insulation, do not forget that they do not tolerate mechanical stress and are subject to destruction. You need to take care of the protection of these materials in advance.

How to find out how thick wall insulation should be

In order to find out what thickness of insulation to use, it is necessary to find out some factors that affect the thickness of the insulation.

Below is a list of popular materials for insulating the walls of a house and their thermal conductivity coefficient:

• Glass wool URSA - 0.043 W / m × K;
• Stone wool Rockwool - 0.037 W / m × K;
• Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) - 0.036 W / m × K;
• Ecowool - 0.036 W/m×K;
• Polyurethane foam - 0.02 W / m × K;
• Expanded clay - 0.16 W / m × K;
• Brickwork - 0.521 W/m×K.

And now a list of materials with a minimum thickness of insulation is given:

• Glass wool URSA - 188 mm;
• Stone (basalt) wool Rockwool - 166 mm;
• Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) - 155 mm;
• Ecowool - 151 mm;
• Polyurethane foam - 121 mm;
• Expanded clay - 868 mm;
• Brickwork - 1461 mm.

Calculate accordingly: multiply the thermal conductivity of the material by its thickness, this will be the value of thermal conductivity. Each region requires a different amount of thermal conductivity.

Also, do not forget that the walls themselves or the supporting structure have their own thermal conductivity value, so its value must be added to the value of the insulation. See below detailed video how thick should the wall insulation be?

cinder block house

Increasingly, for the construction of modern houses, materials such as cinder block are used. And the secret of such popularity lies not only in its low cost. It has many benefits. It is no worse than modern building materials which are made according to the latest technologies. It is ideal for the construction of residential buildings.

The cinder block is a building stone. It is obtained by shrinking cement mortar in different forms. The manufacturing technology is not particularly complicated, it does not require special equipment and installations. The solution is made up of various components, but this does not greatly affect the final characteristics. Therefore, you can make such a building material yourself. To do this, you will need to make a form into which the solution mixture will be poured.

Manufacturing

As a rule, industrial cinder block is always larger than red or silicate brick. By making it yourself, you can give it the size and shape of your choice. You can make a form from ordinary wooden planks. The solution is made from ash, which can be replaced with slag waste from boiler houses. Cement is also added to it. All these components make it possible to obtain building materials of increased strength. For even greater strength, sand, dolomite crushed stone, brick chips, and limestone screenings can be added to the solution. Of course, all this must be filled with water. From such a solution, concrete cinder blocks are obtained, which have a significant weight. To get a lightweight version, the solution is kneaded on the basis of cement, expanded clay, slag and ash.

Such elements are used not only for the construction of residential buildings. Other types of buildings are also built from them. Due to the relative lightness of the material, you can easily build a house on your own in the shortest period of time. A cinder block house is warm and comfortable.

Construction Benefits

A cinder block is essentially a concrete block. As a filler, slag is used for it, which determines the basic properties of the material. Slag is a vitreous mass. It consists of the smallest particles of waste rock, which is mixed with flux. This substance removes impurities that form during the melting of the metal.

What are the advantages of buildings built from such material?

1. First of all is the cost. This type of block material is inexpensive. In addition, it is generally possible to make it yourself.
2. Minor weight. This allows you not to focus on the strength of the foundation, and saves on construction.
3. High strength.

   Cinder block masonry: technology and material features

   Blocks are made on the basis of cement, slag, sand and sawdust. As a result, the material is durable. After its surface is plastered, it will be no different from silicate brick.

4. Fire resistant. There are simply no components left in its composition that could catch fire. Under the influence of high temperatures, they can melt, but not catch fire.
5. The building is not afraid of insects and small rodents. Therefore, residents may not be afraid of such a neighborhood.

   But it is worth noting that such non-love is caused by the fact that some components carry a certain harmfulness.

6. Technological simplicity. You can build a house from cinder block yourself even with a complete lack of experience in construction.

If we talk about insulating properties, then the prospects look rather sad. The cinder block has a porous structure that absorbs moisture. This leads to freezing of the walls in the winter season. Therefore, a building that is not insulated will serve as a poor protection for you from cold and frost.

Construction Disadvantages

Knowing all the shortcomings of the building material, you can more accurately understand whether this material meets your needs. Unfortunately, the cinder block also has them.

• High level of thermal conductivity. The house requires mandatory insulation. If you do not fulfill this condition, then the fuel costs will shock you.
• An increased degree of hygroscopicity, that is, the material is too porous. This means that the walls will catastrophically absorb any moisture. This will lead to dampness and cold indoors in winter. To avoid this, you will need an exterior plaster and a wall waterproofing agent. The latter must be used even when the facade of the building will be insulated from the outside using wet technology.
• Low level of environmental friendliness. Of course, manufacturing companies convince that this building material does not contain anything bad. However, no one can guarantee you that radioactive slag was not used in its production.

The list can go on for a very long time. You can add some nuances that make the process more complicated. But in reality, all this is not important if the builder is armed in advance with modern and reliable high-quality tools.

Construction features

The technology of erecting buildings from cinder block material is practically no different from building, for example, from brick. In the same way, the foundation is made, walls are erected, a roof is put up and communications are laid. Differences are noticeable only at certain stages.

• Protection of the foundation from water. Due to the fact that this species building material is hygroscopic, it just needs to be protected from moisture, which will come from everywhere, taking into account the foundation. Therefore, the waterproofing work of the foundation must be carried out with special care.
• Masonry.

  The cinder block is laid in almost the same way as a brick. The block binding method is the same and has not changed long years. The difference lies in the fact that the cinder block has voids. They are used depending on what the goal is. If the house is low, then the voids are simply filled with cement. This allows you to achieve additional strengthening of the structure. If the building will have several floors, then a reinforcement frame is inserted into the cavity. This allows the material to withstand the load coming from the upper floors.

• A cinder block house cannot do without an armored belt. Of course, I use it in the construction of all buildings from blocks. It is designed to distribute the load that comes from the floor slabs to all walls. If the house is being built from cinder block, then the armored belt is especially important. It is even made a little larger than usual.

Start of construction

Before starting the construction process, you need to decide on the size of the budget. There should be enough money to purchase ready-made material or components for its subsequent manufacture. In addition, the construction process will also require funds from you, as well as the repair process.

So, if you get everything you need to build a foundation, and build walls on it, and there is not enough money to continue building, then all the work will go down the drain.

After all, we already wrote earlier that the cinder block absorbs moisture, which means that it will quickly become unusable, and everything will eventually have to be redone. If you cannot do all the calculations yourself, then contact construction company, which specializes in planned developments and calculates the number of required material with budgeting.

Also, you must put in order all the documentation proving your right to property and so on.

Building a foundation

When the documentation is put in order, and all materials are purchased, you can start digging a foundation pit. To build the latter, you will need cement, reinforced concrete foundation blocks, crushed stone, gravel and sand. If you are planning to create a basement or want to build a garage under the house, then the foundation pit should be larger and deeper than usual.

The foundation itself, as a rule, has a tape structure. Especially when it comes to low-rise buildings. The quality of the soil on which the house is being built also affects how the foundation will look. Its height should have a height of at least 70 centimeters above ground level. This will protect the blocks from possible wetting.

When the foundation is ready, it must stand for at least one month.

But laying the plinth is an exception. Its layer should be at least five rows if the building is built from concrete blocks. The bottom of the plinth without fail must be completely isolated from the surface of the foundation itself. The upper part of the plinth is covered with a layer of waterproofing.

Wall and roof construction

When the foundation is settled, you can start laying the walls of the house. To do this, you need to prepare the cinder block itself and, of course, the solution. It is prepared from cement and plasticizer. The latter will not allow the cement to harden very quickly. Therefore, it can be mixed large quantities. So, for the process of building walls, the following tools will come in handy.

• Hacksaw. You will need it for sawing blocks to give them the desired size.
• Respirator. When sawing, a lot of dust is generated.
• Building level.
• Hydraulic level.
• A hammer.
• Trowel.
• Plumb.
• Order.

Construction stages

As with building a brick house, you need to carefully align all the corners. The result should be a perfect rectangle shape. Then four cinder blocks are placed on the surface of the foundation. They are leveled with a building level and a stretched cord. After that, a layer of cement mortar is applied to the surface. It is on him that the first row of cinder blocks is exposed. If necessary, to give the solution a viscosity, ordinary ash is added to it. If there is red clay, then it will do the same.

The blocks are very easy to install. There are very few differences from brickwork. The solution is applied with a trowel. The stone is placed at an angle to the surface, turned so that it is parallel to the wall surface, and pressed firmly against the stone that was laid earlier. In this case, you need to lightly tap with a hammer on the concrete block. Excess residues of the solution are removed with a paint trowel.

The very first rows must be laid out as accurately as possible. When erecting them, you need to check how even the surface is with the help of a building level and a plumb line. The more often you conduct such a check, the faster the work will go. In addition, you do not have to correct the mistakes made.

Laying methods

Laying walls made of cinder block material is possible in several ways.

1) In two stone blocks.

2) One and a half blocks.

3) In one cinder block.

4) Half a stone.

The solution must be laid with a thickness of no more than one and a half centimeters. If the layer is thicker, then the thermal insulation properties of the finished structure may decrease. To increase these properties, voids within blocks are best left unfilled. The solution is laid only at the joints of the blocks and where it is needed. When the wall is ready, the voids in it are covered with very fine slag, which is then carefully compacted.

In any case, the construction process is much faster than if you used ordinary brick. This is due to the size of the material and ease of use. So, the brick is smaller, so it will need twice as much. Therefore, more movements will have to be performed. Yes, and the same cement will go a lot. This means that the cinder block saves money. When the process of building walls is completed, you need to take on their hydro and thermal insulation. This is necessary so that moisture does not get on the surface of the material. This is especially important to do before you mount the roof.

When the walls are completely insulated from the effects of weather conditions, the roof frame is installed. It is designed after all the work related to the box of the building is completed. So that condensation does not form between the ceiling and the roof of the house, moisture does not collect, steam and waterproofing materials.
When the installation of the roof is fully completed, it is necessary to perform a vapor barrier on the ceiling. It, like the entire roof, must be insulated inside with basalt or mineral wool.

Video. We build a house from cinder block

Video. Cinder block its pros and cons

cinder block is a by-product of the Soviet metallurgical industry. The very name of this material suggests that it contains blast-furnace slag.

These wall blocks are made from a special concrete mixture (filler, binder, water), by vibrocompression directly in the mold.

When my friend, who lives in Stalinka, built in 1953, had windows changed, we were surprised - the cinder blocks were like new, and very durable.

Now, only the name remains from the wall material of that time.

The composition of the cinder block

Today, a cinder block is called a building stone, where almost anything can be a filler:

• In fact, the slag
• River and granite gravel
• Sand
• The battle various materials: brick, concrete, hardened cement
• Expanded clay or expanded clay gravel.

  Master class on laying cinder block walls

  Low-melting clays "swell" during rapid annealing. The granules are round or oval shape with good thermal conductivity properties.

• Associated products of coal combustion: ash, boiler slag
• Perlite is a volcanic rock. In crushed perlite, upon rapid heating, water turns into steam and swells the softened rock, which increases in volume up to 20 times. The resulting grains are used as a filler.
• Sawdust

The properties of the filler directly depend specifications material: thermal conductivity, density, frost resistance, strength. For example, crushed stone, sand, pebbles are used as a filler for a full-bodied cinder block. The material is dense, heavy, with high thermal conductivity and very durable.

Slag, perlite, expanded clay are used to make a lighter concrete mix. It produces blocks with less weight and thermal conductivity. The addition of sawdust will make it possible to produce an ecological, heat-resistant, and at the same time fireproof block, but it will definitely need to be closed from precipitation.

Types and characteristics of cinder block

By voidness, the following types of cinder block are distinguished:

corpulent- used for foundation construction, ground floor, columns, load-bearing structures building.

This is the most durable type of cinder block.

Hollow- are used for the construction of walls and partitions of housing construction. The properties of the block depend on the number and type of internal cavities.

• A cinder block with a voidage of 40% has the highest thermal conductivity and the lowest strength. Used in the construction of buildings metal frame, or for insulation in conjunction with another, more durable material.
• A voidage of 30% allows you to combine good thermal conductivity and material strength. Therefore, it is most often used for construction.
• These products are made with round, oval and rectangular inner chambers. It is believed that blocks with round and oval (oblong) voids are the most durable. But blocks with rectangular cavities are more convenient in installation. If necessary, they break evenly without special tools.

Manufacturers always indicate the percentage of voids in their products. The main physical and mechanical characteristics of cinder blocks:

• Brands of wall blocks by strength: M125, M100, M75, M50, M35 (kg/cm2). M125 and M100 are used for the construction of foundations and basement walls. M75 and M50 - for the construction of walls and partitions. M35 - for insulation, in conjunction with another load-bearing material.
• Frost resistance: 15, 25, 35, 50 cycles. For the construction of external walls, wall stone with a frost resistance of at least 35 is used. For more northern regions - at least 50 cycles.
• Thermal conductivity. If we take the average block density of 1050-1200 kg / m3, then this figure will be equal to 0.35-0.48 W / m ° C, which is no worse than brick indicators.

Dimensions and weight of the cinder block

According to the purpose of the cinder block are distinguished:

• Wall, full block - solid and hollow . Standard size cinder block: 390 × 190 × 188 mm (length; depth; height)
• Wall, semi-block - hollow . It comes in two sizes: 390x120x188 mm and 390x90x188 mm.
• Wall blocks and semi-blocks with a decorative surface . Special polyurethane molds allow you to get the front surface of the block with the texture of wild stone. At the moment, non-ferrous products have begun to be produced, the use of which significantly reduces the cost of building not only buildings, but also site fences.

How much does a cinder block weigh? Its weight varies greatly depending on its frame size, hollowness and manufacturer:

• The weight of a full-bodied cinder block ranges from 25-28 kg.
• The weight of a hollow block is somewhere around 18-23 kg.
• The weight of a semi-block is from 10 kg to 13 kg.

Advantages and disadvantages of cinder block

The advantages of this wall material include:

• Relatively low price of the product.
• Due to the large size of one block, the construction time is significantly reduced, which means that the cost of work is cheaper.
• The masonry technique is simple, you can do it yourself, on your own.
• A variety of filler composition for concrete mix.

  You can always choose the material that suits you according to its characteristics.

• Long service life. The standard operating time is 100 years.
• By applying a decorative cinder block, you do not need to spend money on plaster or cladding of the building.
• High sound insulation. Like any concrete, cinder block absorbs sound.

Disadvantages of cinder blocks:

• Heavy weight of some types of products.
• Unsightly appearance. If you cannot buy a decorative cinder block in your area, then it is difficult to find a craftsman who can beautifully lay out this wall stone.
• After the accident at Chernobyl, this product was treated with caution. There were, and even now there are many rumors that the results of his test for radioactivity are unpredictable, and being in a blast-furnace slag of a bouquet of elements of the Mendeleev system can be potentially hazardous to health.

But who is warned is armed. And this, a very significant (maybe hypothetically) disadvantage, can always be balanced with dignity No. 4.

The main thing is to responsibly approach the choice of the manufacturer. Find out what equipment it works on, how the production technology is observed, what filler it uses, and where it comes from.

How much does a cinder block cost?

Depending on the manufacturer, product size, type of filler, the price per piece of cinder block varies very widely:

• The cost of a full-bodied cinder block ranges from 36-42 rubles, expanded clay concrete - from 50 to 56 rubles.
• The cost of a hollow block is somewhere around 22-30 rubles, expanded clay concrete - 41-46 rubles.
• The cost of a semi-block is from 22 rubles. up to 24 rubles
• The cost of a decorative block is from 60 rubles. up to 65 rubles

Cinder block, as a wall material for building a house, like any other material, has its advantages and disadvantages. After weighing all the pros and cons, paying attention to the facts presented in the article, you can understand whether this option suits you or not.

Based on site materials: http://greensector.ru/strojjmaterialy/

When you start construction, you want everything to be done as quickly as possible, cheaper and more reliable. All these factors can be satisfied by a house built from cinder block with your own hands. This building material can be made independently. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to roof installation.

Advantages and disadvantages

At some point in time, the cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after the smelting of the metal had to be used somewhere. It was decided to use it as a filler for building components. That's how this one came about fake diamond. But then he was distinguished not by the most good qualities, because from an environmental point of view, he had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept on the street for about a year and only after that put into work. Today the situation is a little different and it seems to be the most popular material for the construction of low buildings. His strengths are:

• Long service life. With the right approach, the stone will last about 100 years.
• Good thermal insulation. Thanks to the manufacturing method with air chambers, the material perfectly retains heat.
• High build speed. Due to the large dimensions, the walls can be driven out much faster than from ordinary bricks.
• Resistant to the development of fungus and mold.
• Possibility individual approach to sizes.
• The material is unloved by rodents and other pests.
• A house made of such material is easy to repair.

Disadvantages:

• It absorbs moisture well, which leads to a loss of heat capacity.
• Poor plaster adhesion to this building block.
• The impossibility of erecting a building more than 2 floors.
• The need for rapid construction of the roof. The fact is that the expelled walls cannot be left uncovered for a long time, because this will lead to their rapid destruction.
• The importance of strict adherence to masonry technology.
• The need for a high foundation.
• It is important to carry out construction work in dry weather.
• Poor tolerance of building shrinkage. In this case, a split is possible not at the seams, but along the blocks themselves.

If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, then there are a few nuances that you should pay attention to. Well, if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions under which it was stored. It is important that this is not an open space where it is exposed to precipitation. It should not have chips or cracks. Using a tape measure, you need to check its dimensions. Parallel sides must match.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. To successfully move in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately maintain proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibrotamper. For this you will need:

• sheet metal 3 mm thick;
• pipe with a diameter of 75–80 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• electric motor to create vibration.

The engine can be used from the old washing machine or from grinder. Large power is not required. The main thing is to correctly place the weight, which will shift the center of gravity.

The sequence of work will be as follows:

• Blanks are cut out of metal. Two of them are 200×400 mm, the other two are 200×200 mm.
• They need to be welded together to make a small box.
• Cut three pieces of pipe 170 mm each. The size is smaller along the length so that the thickness of the bottom wall is at least 30 mm.
• Cuts are made along the end of the sleeves to a depth of 50 mm. One of the sides is given the appearance of a truncated cone.
• From the other end, cuts are made to a depth of 50 mm. A strip of metal 400 mm long is placed in them. It connects all three elements together.
• The ends of the pipes are closed with plugs.
• This design is placed in a box and fixed to the walls.
• A side is welded along the upper end of the container to make it more convenient to backfill and ram the solution.
• Additionally, you can make a mechanism by which the box will rise up. To do this, you can use a profile square pipe. If there is no desire to complicate, then it is enough to weld two handles on the sides of the box.
• An engine is attached to the large side. To do this, four bolts are welded to the wall so that their location coincides with the holes on the apparatus body. It is pressed with washers and nuts of a suitable diameter.
• Additionally, a cover is made, which improves the tamping. For it, you need a sheet of metal 195 × 395 mm. It is necessary to make holes in it for pipes (they should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the sleeves) and cut into two parts along. This must be done so that it calmly sinks and does not rest against the partition that secures the hollows. The parts are interconnected using brackets made of reinforcement. It is also necessary to make a depth limiter, which will exclude its immersion deeper than 5 cm.
• In order to speed up the work, you can combine several of these containers with each other.
• Two bolts are welded onto the motor shaft on both sides. This must be done symmetrically. In the future, in order to adjust the frequency and strength of vibrations, it will be enough to screw the required number of nuts.
• The final touch will be a thorough polishing and painting. This is necessary so that subsequently the solution lags better.

Today on sale there are many options for ready-made machines. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.

A pledge of strong and resistant to various influences blocks is a properly prepared solution. If a compactor is used, it must be sufficiently dry. If it is incorrect to calculate the proportions of water, then after raising the container, it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, small gravel, slag, etc. To give additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first mix will look like this:

• 9:1 ​​- cement and slag, which is well sifted so that there are no extra inclusions;
• water should be about half of the cement.

Second cooking method:

• 4:4:1 - industrial granulated slag, crushed stone of small fractions, cement;
• water is the same ratio as for the first option.

The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the finished solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it on the ground, it should spread. After squeezing it again, it should hold its shape again.

The best place to work would be outdoors. Under such conditions, the mortar will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is desirable that the place is flat. It can be a concrete path or a lining made of sheet metal boards knocked down into shields, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:

• The unit is installed in the place from which the calculation will begin.
• The prepared mixture is poured inside. Its quantity must be greater than the actual capacity.
• The vibrator motor is turned on for a few seconds. Part of the solution sits down, so you need to add more.
• The vibrator starts again for a few seconds. Finishing filling is done and the upper end is closed with a lid.
• Sealing is in progress. If the lid has reached the limiters, then you can raise the container.
• Full setting takes a period of 4 to 9 days.
• Finished products can be stored indoors. You need to move them there after a day of drying on the street. If there is a plasticizer in the composition, then after 6 hours.
• For greater convenience, they can be stacked on top of each other.
• They will be ready for the construction process in 1-2 months.

Often, partitions are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. For their manufacture, it will be necessary to make a mold according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120 × 400 × 200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as void formers. They should be of such dimensions that the walls are at least 3 cm.

Calculation of the number of blocks

Projects must be approached rationally. It makes no sense to be overly economical, because this will affect the quality of the future structure. There is also no reason for being extravagant. This is especially true for the number of blocks. Calculations should begin with the fact that to determine the thickness of the wall. This size is determined by several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter period time the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40-60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with foam or foam. Laying can be done in several ways:

• Half a stone. This does not mean that the block will need to be cut into two parts. This means that it lies along. That is, in the described case, this is a thickness of 20 cm.
• In a whole stone. This is the one that lies across, while the wall is 40 cm.
• One and a half stones. By simple addition, we find out that this is 60 cm.
• In two stones - 80 cm.

Suppose that a project of a future house with dimensions of 10 × 12 m was chosen, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3 × 10 \u003d 30 m 2, 12 × 3 \u003d 36 m 2, now we double these results and add them up, because there are two identical planes. 30×2+36×2=132 m2. So the end result is 132 m 2. We determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone block - 0.2 × 0.4 \u003d 0.08 m 2. Divide the total area of ​​the walls by the area of ​​the block - 132:0.08=1650. But this figure is valid if the wall is planned in one stone. If in two, then the end result will be 3300 blocks.

These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done in order to have a small margin. While working with the material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for it.

The calculation of the amount of stone for partition walls is carried out in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and internal ones.

Foundation laying

As mentioned above, this type of design requires a high . In addition, it must be very durable so that in no case cracks begin to form, which will certainly pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:

• The area chosen for construction is carefully inspected. It is better to know in advance in which part of the site ground water are at a lower level. She's the one who fits.
• Everything that clutters it is cleaned up, the grass is mowed to the lowest possible level. This is necessary to assess the overall slope and markup.
• According to the drawing, landmarks are transferred to the area according to the size of the future building.

• One peg is driven into each corner.
• The correct dimensions are checked. In addition to length and width, diagonals are also measured - they must match so that the shape is correct, and not trapezoidal (if this is not provided for by the project).
• Holders for the reference line are made. This will require 16 wooden blocks of arbitrary size, but at least 90-100 cm long. You will need 8 more small boards. Their length should be 10–15 cm more than the width of the foundation. From the boards a crossbar is made for two bars. You should get a design in the shape of the letter P.
• Two self-tapping screws are screwed on each crossbar. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foundation.
• All elements must be hammered into the ground. It is important to do this at such a level that the screws are at a height of 70 cm above the surface. The order of the supports is two for each corner so that they are opposite each other in pairs.
• A fishing line or twine is stretched between the elements. It is more convenient to use a fishing line that has bright color. It is not lost against the background of surrounding objects.
• At this stage, it is once again necessary to check the diagonals between the corners that the stretched thread formed.
• A trench is being dug. Its depth should be 50 cm below the freezing of the soil.
• Sand is poured to a height of 25 cm. It is leveled and rammed well. After that, you need to wet it with water and let it dry. If necessary, add a level.
• Another 25 cm is made of crushed stone. This layer is also well compacted. Ramming is best done with a special electric or gasoline tool.

• Next, a metal grill is made. For the foundation of the planned height, two or three elements will be required. To work, you need ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10 – 12 mm. It is better to assemble the structure on the surface. Its dimensions should be such that it is immersed in concrete 5 cm on each side. That is, the total length and height must be at least 10 cm less than the length and height of the foundation. Several rods are laid out for a total length. The distance between the horizontal components should not exceed 30 cm. If there are no strips of the required length, then you can get from several. In this case, the binding between them should be at least 1 m. Staples are made from smaller rods. Their height should be equal to the size of the planned crate, and the bent elements should be the width of the structure. They are attached to the lined elements every 30-40 cm. Instead of staples, you can make ordinary vertical jumpers. They are fixed to each other with a knitting wire. From above, the same number of longitudinal rods are attached to the inner side as from below.
• Typically, the height of one such structure is 40–50 cm.
• Stands are laid out at the bottom of the pit, which will allow the concrete to close the reinforced base from below. For these purposes, bricks or other homogeneous elements can be used. The minimum height is 5 cm.
• Formwork is made from edged boards knocked into shields, plywood or other durable material. It must be strong enough to withstand the pressure that the concrete will exert. Be sure to install the jibs, which will be stops from the outside. The distance between the shields must be the same so that the foundation is obtained without sagging.
• After preparatory work you need to prepare a solution for pouring. In advance, you need to make sure that there is an assistant and a productive concrete mixer, you can use several. This is very important, because it is necessary to provide a good volume. Thanks to this, the design will turn out to be monolithic, and not puff, which will reduce strength. The composition of the mixture will be 3:1:3 - crushed stone, Portland cement, sand. For such purposes, Portland cement is perfect. The fact is that it contains additives of calcium silicate and gypsum. Thanks to this, a quick setting occurs and strength is ensured. Be sure to add a plasticizer, thus the fluidity and filling of voids will be improved, frost resistance will increase, as well as moisture resistance.

• Periodically, during pouring, it is necessary to treat with a vibrator. So the concrete is better compacted and the structure will subsequently gain maximum strength.
• During pouring, it is also necessary to try to distribute all the concrete in level. Subsequently, this will help to quickly cope with the pasture of the walls.
• If the weather is hot enough, then it is necessary to moisten the surface with plenty of water, it would also be good to cover the foundation with a building film or pieces of roofing material.
• With a high curing rate, the formwork can be removed after a week.
• It is better to continue further work after a month. It is this period that is necessary for the cement-sand mixture to gain all its strength.

If you decide not to flood so much high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of the construction of the base. This is a continuation of the foundation, which protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before you start laying it, it is necessary to provide for waterproofing. To do this, a roofing material or bikrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should reach 70 cm or more. Then a layer of waterproofing is laid on it again, and only after that the construction of walls begins.

When building walls, the main task is to make them even, without protrusions. The first step on the way to such a result is to determine the highest corner of the foundation. The fact is that during pouring it is difficult to deduce the ideal value. This measurement is made using a water level. In advance, you need to make sure that its length is enough for the length of the foundation.

• An arbitrary angle is selected. One flask of the device is installed on it. The other part moves to different ends. Thanks to the difference in the position of the water, you can determine where the highest point is. Laying and leveling should start from here. It is very important to do this, because if you start the construction from the lowest point, you will have to subsequently cut the stones. If this is done with the highest, it will simply be enough to make the seam a little larger.
• Having set the starting point, you can do the same for the remaining corners. This will require the same hydraulic level. The task will be to place 4 more stones so that they coincide with the reference in all planes. Additionally, you can check the diagonals.

• A fishing line or twine is stretched along the outer edge of the wall. It will help to make the wall flat in the horizontal plane. It is necessary to raise it to the height of one row and, after each new one, rearrange it to the same level. During operation, it is necessary to ensure that the landmark is not pressed or touched by anything, otherwise it will not be of any use.
• To maintain the verticality of the wall, you can use several tools. For example, after laying each row, check the plane using the building level. An ordinary plumb line will also serve as a guide. If there is no desire to mess with such devices, then you can build stationary reference points. To do this, they dig into the ground metal pipes that fit close to the wall. They are exposed in planes and fixed. Thanks to them, it will be possible to control the process.
• The solution has good thermal conductivity, so there can be significant heat loss due to it. To reduce this value, it will be enough to control its layer. It is better if it does not exceed 1.5 cm.

• If you do not have much experience in masonry, then add a special plasticizer to the cement-sand mixture, which will slow down its setting. This will help to calmly expose each element without having to redo it later.
• Do not try to close the cavities in the stone with a solution, this will only worsen its properties. If desired, they can be filled with loose insulation.
• Every 3-5 rows it is necessary to insert a metal mesh. It will increase the rigidity of the entire structure.

During the laying of the last few rows, you must not forget to wall up the studs. It will be good if you can bend them and bandage them with the seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface to a distance exceeding the height of the Mauerlat beam by 4 cm. The step can be kept at 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of studs. Another option would be to fill the armored belt with the installation of studs in it.

Roof

The installation of the rafter system and the laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after the end of the pasture of the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze the maximum amount of precipitation that can fall, what gusts of wind are. You also need to consider what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect which angle will need to be observed.

If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the slope of the roof must be maintained in the region of 15-20 °. Even with sufficiently strong snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply inflate. In the case when the area is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a spread of 35‒40°. With such a slope, the snow will not be able to linger in large layers.

Looks great on private homes gable roof or all sorts of variations of multi-slope. We will consider an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex designs.

• Installation begins with the installation of the base - Mauerlat. They can tie the longitudinal walls on which the rafters will rest. Or install it around the entire perimeter, which will facilitate the construction of the pediment if it is wooden, not brick. To do this, you need a bar with a section from 50 × 150 mm to 200 × 200 mm. It should be placed in the middle or no closer than 5 cm to the edge. A layer of waterproofing must be laid under it, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture and the decay of wood. Holes are drilled at the locations of the studs. Boards are fixed with nuts and washers or knots when using wire.
• At its core rafter system- This is a designer that includes a large number of details. In shape, it resembles the letter A. In this case, the beams act to break, that is, the force is applied in such a way that the walls are under constant stress. This option is not very good for a cinder block house, so it is advisable to use additional connecting elements. They are racks and beds.
• The first step is to install the ceiling beams. After that, the entire area can be covered with a film so that rainwater does not get inside the building.
• Next, the beds are laid on which the racks will rest. They should run parallel to the Mauerlat. The distance between them will depend on how the attic space will be used. You can make them from the same timber as the base.

• Rafter legs are interconnected with nails or nail plates. In some cases, additional metal staples are used. If they need to be lengthened, then it is better to overlap, it should be about 1 m.
• Rigels can be two or more. It is important to remember that the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.
• The trusses must be the same size to support the plane of the roof. You can collect them both on the building and below. In most cases, the second option is safer and more reliable.
• Two finished elements rise up. They are installed at the ends of the roof and fixed with temporary struts.
• Three strings are stretched between them. One goes along the upper corner, the other two - from the middle of each side. They will serve as guidelines for how the next trusses will be mounted. Instead of fishing line, you can use a ridge board. It is important to put it on temporary supports and check that it is level in the plane.
• All other farms are installed. In order for them not to move, jumpers are mounted, which will then be removed. The step between the rafter legs must be observed such that it will facilitate the simple installation of the insulation.
• The entire area from above is tightened with a hydrobarrier membrane.
• What material should be used for the crate is usually indicated in the recommendations for the flooring that is planned to be used.
• The last step is to insulate the roof. This is usually done using mineral wool. This is a very important stage, because it will reduce heat loss and reduce the cost of different kinds fuel.

It is better to close the gables as soon as possible. This must be done so that the wind does not blow precipitation inward. So moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.

Interior and exterior decoration

It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing works. For the outside ideal solution will be insulated with foam. It is fastened with the help of special dowels-umbrellas. It's better to start from the bottom. First of all, a metal starting bar is mounted. In its role can be a profile for drywall. It needs to be leveled, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled through the insulation sheet using a perforator in the wall. Glue is applied to the reverse side of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with small extension. Each element should fit snugly against the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface with a level. After that, the entire surface is covered with glue intended for this purpose. Together with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The last layer will be decorative trim. It can be bark beetle or embossed plaster.

The house can be sheathed with siding. In this case, mineral wool can also be used for insulation. A product with a high density is suitable, for example, foam. First, the crate is mounted under the cladding. After that, a heater is inserted into the space between the beams. You can fix it to the wall in the same way as the foam.

As noted above, for interior decoration it will be almost impossible to use plaster. But this is not a problem, because you can sheathe the rooms with drywall. This will compensate for any irregularities, as well as apply the desired finishing. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.

It will take a sufficient amount of time to complete all these works. But with good organization and planning, you can meet acceptable deadlines. It's always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.

Video

In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:

Watch the process of laying the cinder block:

A photo

Before you insulate a cinder block house from the inside on your own, you need to know the rules for carrying out such work. It is important to choose materials that are suitable for this.

Today, the construction market is saturated with such products. There are a large number of them. Usually they are made on the basis of mineral wool or polystyrene. Warming a building with one product or another requires certain skills. How to properly insulate a cinder block house will be described below.

The slag house itself is warm, especially if the thickness of the slag-cast wall in it is more than 30 centimeters. But in order to spend less on heating in winter, the building can be further finished. In this case, you can do both external and internal insulation of the cinder block walls of the house with your own hands.

Which side to finish the cinder block house?

Thermal insulation can be both outside the walls and inside. If the finishing is done in the first way, then you can save space inside the building. Warming a cinder block house from the outside will also require less effort, time or money.

How to insulate a cinder block house?

How to insulate a cinder block house from the outside? Outside, the finish can be made with expanded polystyrene. This material is easily glued with a special mixture. Beforehand, it is worth leveling the wall under it and priming it so that moisture does not seep through. So how to insulate a cinder block structure correctly?

To create thermal insulation inside, it will be necessary to carry out preparatory activities. To do this, the surface is leveled, and then primed. Such work can be done using plaster or putty mixture. The walls must first be cleaned of dirt or dust.

In order for the thermal insulation to last for a long time, it is important to put a layer of waterproofing under the thermal material. This will help prevent condensation.

For interior decoration you will need:

1. Insulation. The thickness of the sheets should not be more than 5 centimeters.
2. Putty knife.
3. Glue.

After the site is prepared, you can proceed with the installation of plates. The adhesive mixture must be prepared according to the instructions on the package. It is applied to the surface with a spatula. Then the insulation material is glued to the glue. At the same time, there should be no air under the plates.

Important! Glue should be applied only to the base, not to the slabs. The thermal material itself must have a clean surface. The sheets fit snugly together after gluing. If gaps remain, they can be blown out with foam or sealed with putty.

How to lay insulation on cinder block walls?

Before you insulate a house from a cinder block, you need to choose a thermal insulator. Insulation of a cinder block house from the inside can be done different materials. Their installation has certain nuances depending on the type of insulation. It is important to know such moments before the start of the event.

Foam insulation

The difficulty of using this product is that its installation requires a flat base. If this is a cinder block wall, then it will require preliminary plastering, and then a primer. The surface must be free of dust or paint.

So that it does not absorb moisture, waterproofing is mandatory under it. This will allow the insulation to last longer. Waterproofing will not allow condensation to form, and therefore the walls will always be dry.

To work you need:

1. Styrofoam.
2. Putty knife.
3. Glue.

Installation is simple. The prepared surface is covered with glue, and then the plate clings there. Then the plate must be pressed to squeeze out the remaining air from under it. Glue is recommended to be applied exclusively to the wall, and not to the sheet. Then all the gaps between the plates are sealed with plaster.

Also, installation can be done with plastic dowels. But usually inside the house they are glued with a mixture. The final step will be finishing or painting.

This method is fast and practical. The main advantage is that it is not necessary to level the surface for laying mineral wool. The installation process is carried out on the frame. It can be wood or aluminum. Before strengthening, the tree should be treated with mixtures that will not allow it to rot and will prevent the appearance of insects.

The frame consists of cells of a certain shape, where the mineral wool is placed. Then from above it is all sewn up with drywall, and then gets off.

Insulation sealing

After laying the thermal material, it is important to check its sealing at joints, sockets, switches and other things. Air can get into the gaps left in these places. To prevent this from happening, sealants are used. If the gaps are large, foam is used.

Conclusion

A video on how to insulate a cinder block structure from the inside or outside is below. On it you can get acquainted with the process of installing insulation in more detail. It is also worth noting that mineral wool insulation will cost less than foam.

The advantages of mineral wool include the fact that it does not burn like Styrofoam. Also, when smoldering, harmful gases will not be released into the air. The downside is that cotton wool can absorb moisture when communications leak. But here everyone must calculate their capabilities and strengths, and then, on the basis of this, choose best option for yourself.

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If you are faced with the task of quickly and inexpensively building your own housing, pay attention to cinder blocks. This inexpensive building material is well-deservedly popular with private developers. Its technical characteristics allow you to create comfortable and reliable housing .. The pros and cons of such construction, the types of blocks and their purpose, the algorithm of work - in our article.

Cinder-concrete houses - an example of cheap and fast construction

Cinder block is a building stone prepared by pressing from cement and filler. Mass production of cinder blocks is developed in regions with metallurgical production. It is there that waste from blast furnaces is actively used in the manufacture of building materials. The first part of the name, slag, may have a non-literal meaning. It is understood as crushed stone, crushed glass or, expanded clay, shavings and sawdust, ash, ashes, sand.

What is better to choose for construction: brick or cinder block

A cinder-block house has its pros and cons, but, oddly enough, it wins compared to a brick house. The cinder block has a porous structure and retains heat much better than brick. Brick also has excellent thermal insulation qualities, but in order to heat cold house from this material, it will take a very long time.

A cinder block wall weighs less than a brick one, which means that there is no need for a reinforced foundation. For construction brick walls more time will be required and the cost of the work will be much higher. Again, the cost of a cinder block is lower than the cost of a brick.

Article

Slag concrete is a type of lightweight concrete in which blast-furnace slag is used as a filler. In construction, slag concrete is used in the form of blocks, the maximum dimensions of which are 400 * 200 * 200 mm.

This article discusses the technology of building a house from cinder block. We will study the advantages and disadvantages of this material, technical characteristics and features of working with it.

Production, varieties, sizes

According to the provisions of GOST No. 13579 "Building blocks", in the solution for the manufacture of cinder blocks, not only blast-furnace slag, but also other construction waste can be used as a filler - granotsev, broken concrete and brick, cullet, volcanic ash. Portland cement grade M400 is used as a binder.

Partial hardening of the blocks, which allows you to store products in stacks, occurs within 2-3 days. Hardening itself occurs at ambient temperature, its period can be reduced by adding special hardening modifiers (relaxol, fulleron) to the composition of the solution. Slag concrete gains its final strength within 25-28 days.

The production of cinder blocks at home can be set up with only a concrete mixer and a vibrating machine, the cost of which varies between 10-100 thousand rubles. The performance of the vibrating machine is average price category is 500-700 blocks per day, which will allow you to build a house from a hand-made glakoblock. The required number of blocks for a one-story building with an area of ​​10 × 10 can be made within 7-10 days.

Cinder blocks are classified into two types:

• corpulent - with their use, the laying of load-bearing walls is carried out;
• hollow - used for thermal insulation or laying internal partitions.

There are also decorative cinder blocks, in which one side has the texture of some material - stone, wood. The decorative surface is made of concrete, which allows it to perform not only an aesthetic function, but also protect the walls from moisture.

The most common size of cinder block is 390*190*188 mm, less common are 400*200*200 and 395*195*195 mm. The voidness of products can vary within 28-40%, while the shape of the perforations is different, they can be rectangular, round or square.

To find out how many blocks will be required to build the walls of the house, it is necessary to determine the volume of the wall (the length of the wall multiplied by its height and width) minus the volume of window and doorways, and divide the volume of masonry by the volume of one wall block.

1.1 Material characteristics, pros and cons of a cinder block house

Consider the main technical characteristics of cinder blocks:

• density - from 750 to 1500 kg / m 3;
• coefficient thermal conductivity - 0.28-0.64 W / mS;
• strength class - from M35 to M50;
• frost resistance class - F20-F50.

The scope of this material is extremely extensive, however, in individual construction it is most often used for the construction of utility buildings and garages. The use of cinder block for the construction of residential buildings is less common, since in terms of performance it significantly loses to cellular concrete - cinder blocks and gas blocks.

Advantages of using cinder blocks:

• comparatively low cost (about 2 thousand per cubic meter, while the price of foam concrete starts from 3 thousand);
• low weight of the blocks, which simplifies the work with the material and makes it possible to use inexpensive types of foundation for construction;
• large size of cinder blocks - accelerates the pace of masonry and reduces the number of masonry joints, which affects the consumption of mortar or glue;
• simple masonry technology that even an inexperienced builder can perform;
• the ability to save on the purchase of material and produce blocks at home;
• excellent soundproof qualities;
• long service life, subject to right technology construction.

The disadvantages of this material are as follows

• high thermal conductivity, due to which the walls of the house do not hold heat well - additional insulation of the masonry will be required;
• high moisture absorption, in comparison with heavy concrete, which negatively affects the frost resistance of the material (this problem is solved by external waterproofing of the masonry).

It should be noted that blast-furnace slag, which is a waste product of the metallurgical industry, which is part of the slag concrete, contains sulfur and acid. These materials are dangerous to the body, and in order for them to completely weather out, the unit must be kept in a ventilated room or outdoors for 12 months. When purchasing material, be sure to ask the supplier for a certificate of sanitary conformity.

1.2 The technology of building a cinder-block house (video)

2 Features of building a house from cinder block

Since the cinder block is a hygroscopic material, the first row of masonry must be raised above ground level to a sufficient height. For this, the foundation base must be high (about 50-70 cm above the ground). For buildings made of cinder concrete, a strip foundation is most often chosen.

If the construction is carried out in conditions of stable soil, then a shallow-depth tape is used (depth 50-60 cm), on heaving soil - a deep foundation (the sole of the tape is placed 20 cm below the freezing line). The width of the foundation corresponds to the thickness of the masonry. The base must be reinforced with a spatial frame of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 12-16 mm, concreting is carried out with concrete grade M400. You can start raising the walls 2-3 weeks after pouring the foundation.

Cinder block masonry has the following features:

• the first row of blocks is placed on top of the foundation laid on the surface roll waterproofing from roofing material, roofing felts or glass isol;
• it is necessary to reinforce every 4th row of masonry, this is done by means of a steel mesh with 5 * 5 cells and a wire thickness of 2-3 mm;
• the thickness of the masonry joints when using a cement-sand mortar is 1.5 cm;
• the second and all subsequent glads are placed with dressing in the floor of the block;
• the upper contour of the wall along the line of placement of the interfloor ceiling or roof is reinforced with a monolithic armored belt 15-20 cm high, for the installation of which special U-shaped blocks are used;
• if it is planned to insulate the wall, then you need to make masonry 1 block thick and clad the wall with brick, while the heat-insulating material (extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool) is placed between the blocks and the brick.

The roof of a cinder block house can be any, the best option is a classic gable truss structure. Mauerlat, which will lean rafter legs, is made from a bar with a section of 15 * 15 cm fixed on a monolithic armored belt. There is no need to reinforce the lower contour of window openings with an armored belt, since cinder block walls do not shrink.

If the insulation of the house and the wall decoration with bricks are not provided, then it is necessary to veneer the box of the building from the outside immediately after its construction. The reason for the haste is the increased moisture absorption of the material, which must be eliminated. Facade decoration can be done using siding or a block house; options using hydrophobic plaster are also popular.

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