Compatible plants in the garden. Pleasant neighborhood or what crops can be planted nearby

One of the secrets of successful horticulture is allelopathy - the compatibility of vegetable crops. In other words, it is the knowledge of how plants "befriend each other". This approach will help not only to achieve high yields and health of crops, but also to preserve the natural fertility of the soil, which is an essential condition for any type of agriculture.

When a summer resident draws up a planting plan for his site, he needs to know what grew on it in previous seasons. This is very important, since when growing monocultures, one-sided depletion of the soil occurs, which means that not all plants will be able to survive and give a good harvest.

Cultures differ in the time of fruit ripening. This allows you to rationally distribute plantings and make sure that the land does not stand idle. Be sure to take into account the size of plants, their need for light and soil moisture, resistance to pests, demanding fertility. In the latter case, there are strong consumers of nutrients, and there are weaker ones, which is one of the factors affecting the compatibility of vegetables in the garden.

All of the above criteria lay the foundation for natural farming called "mixed planting".

Planting vegetables - after what predecessors can a good harvest be expected?

What is mixed landings?

This is a method of organic farming based on many years of experience of well-known horticulturalists who carefully observe the natural processes in flora and implementing them in their own areas. It was this approach - observation and application - that made it possible to accurately determine the compatibility of plants in the garden.

essence this method It consists in planting different vegetable crops on the same land plot in such a way that they have a beneficial effect on each other, creating a good microclimate that provides a rich harvest and natural protection from pests.

Advantages of the method

People who have been planting vegetables on a mixed basis for more than a year note the following positive sides this approach:

• the yield increased several times - 15-20 kilograms per 1 m 2;
• no need to thoroughly weed out;
• reduced time spent on garden work;
• vegetables in the garden have practically ceased to hurt, they appearance became healthier;
• it became possible to obtain fresh vegetables before the first frost;
• improved taste and aromatic qualities of products;
• mixed plantings attract more pollinating bees;
• reduced need for plants in watering;
• the available land area has become more rationally used;
• the depletion of the soil has stopped with a further prospect of its improvement;
• the need for crop rotation disappeared.

When creating the right mixed plantings in the garden, a separate "kingdom" is formed, which has its own laws that do not require unnecessary human intervention. Vegetables and other plants, terrestrial and underground insects and other representatives of the fauna coexist in harmony, maintaining a natural balance, as in wild nature. Of course, a person is not completely removed from work, but his physical labor in the garden is reduced to a minimum.

Basic rules for mixed landings

A few simple rules will help you get a good harvest without the use of chemical fertilizers:

• The optimal width of the beds is 1 meter.
• The main crop is planted in the center of the bed, and the accompanying crop is planted on the sides.
• Slowly ripening species are chosen as the main ones, which, by the time of fruiting, grow strongly, for example, tomatoes.
• Accompanying are low-growing plants with a fibrous root system that retain moisture in the ground and ripen quickly, for example, greens. By the time the main culture begins to mature, the friendly ones around it will already be gathered and make room.

For the correct combinations of plants in the garden, you can use the vegetable compatibility table when planting.

Compatibility of vegetable crops with each other

The plant compatibility table clearly shows what can be planted with what and how plants affect each other.

planting strawberries

To get a good harvest of this tasty and tender crop, you need to choose the right neighborhood of vegetables in the beds with it. The best neighbors for strawberries are parsley, which repels slugs, as well as leeks - it protects against gray rot.

Calendula and marigold help to cope with the nematode. In autumn, these flowers can be crushed and mulched between rows. Irises protect strawberry bushes from frost. Sage improves taste.

Neighborhood with carrots increases the yield of both crops. Onions and garlic repel harmful insects. Spinach, lettuce, beans, beets, radishes and radishes have a positive effect on the growth of strawberries.

Strawberries do not have bad neighbors in the garden among vegetables, although the opinion regarding the proximity of different types of cabbage to it remains ambiguous. It is believed that the culture does not like the close location of birches, but it is good for it near spruces and pines, whose needles can be used as mulch.

Nutrient requirements of vegetable crops

Different crops consume different amounts of nutrients, mainly nitrogen, which greatly affects the compatibility of plants in the garden. According to this principle, they can be classified:

• Strong consumers: cabbage - white, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red, Beijing; pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, celery.
• Average consumers: radishes, potatoes, eggplants, beets, carrots, spinach, chicory, head lettuce, onions, fennel.
• Weak consumers: radishes, beans, peas, spices, herbs.

Vegetable compatibility. Compatibility of vegetable crops on the same bed home comfort Gardening Av. Litvinenko Elena August 1, 2015

Many gardeners approach the cultivation of vegetables, herbs and fruits with great responsibility.
They observe all agricultural practices, apply all modern drugs and fertilizers for better results, constantly fighting weeds and pests. But sometimes, despite the maximum amount of effort, the harvest is not encouraging. Why is it so?

There is also such a thing as the compatibility of vegetables. This is a very important factor that must be taken into account. The importance of the compatibility of vegetables when planting plants in the garden is very important to take into account the proximity of plants and know the predecessors. Many cultures are incompatible and can oppress each other.
The size of the plants and their way of growing also play an important role. Given all these factors, it is possible to use the garden area more rationally, which is especially important when it is small. Planting plan Based on the compatibility of vegetables, you need to draw up a planting plan in advance. It is better to start compiling it in winter period before field work.

Miscellaneous parts land plot may vary in fertility. This should also be taken into account when distributing crops.
Among plants there are strong consumers useful substances and weak. They need to be replaced periodically. The ripening time for all vegetables is different.
This can be used for rational use land so that it does not stand idle.

But the most important factor is the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. It greatly affects the future harvest. Therefore, using the information from this article, plan future plantings taking into account all factors. Nutrient Requirements of Vegetables The nutrient requirements of plants greatly affect the compatibility of vegetables. This indicator is different for all cultures.

All plants can be divided into three conditional categories.
Strong consumers are vegetables that require a lot of nitrogen. These include almost all types of cabbage, chard, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, peppers, pumpkins and cucumbers.
Average consumers are carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, potatoes, beets, eggplant, field lettuce, chicory, spinach and head lettuce.
And, finally, peas, radishes, herbs, beans and spices are weak consumers of nutrients. When arranging vegetables in the garden, this factor must be taken into account and arranged depending on the saturation of the site and the predecessor. This will help increase productivity.

Carrot
Carrots are found in our areas very often. Almost every gardener grows this crop. When planting it, you must also take into account the compatibility of vegetables. So, carrots grow well next to peas, radishes, spinach and lettuce. This vegetable gets along very well next to some types of onions (leek, onion and perennial). These two vegetables protect each other from pests. It is undesirable to plant carrots next to parsley, dill and celery. Very often, dill is sown on its own, it is worth planting it once on the site. But for carrots, this is an undesirable neighborhood. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the garden and use it for its intended purpose.

eggplant
The vegetable compatibility table (see below) is very important for every gardener, especially a beginner. Subsequently, with experience, knowledge about the characteristics of each culture will come. Eggplant is another common vegetable. It grows well next to crops such as beans, peppers, peas. Do not plant eggplant next to cucumbers. It's not a very good neighborhood. There are conflicting opinions about contact during growth with other nightshade crops. Some fairly experienced gardeners believe that such a neighborhood is appropriate and gives excellent results. The opinion of others is just the opposite. They believe that planting eggplants next to other nightshades results in poor harvests.

beans
If we consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then the best neighbors for many crops are beans. They repel Colorado beetles. Also, beans, thanks to nodule bacteria, accumulate a sufficient amount of nitrogen on their roots and enrich the soil. Potatoes, corn, cucumbers, spinach, radishes and radishes get along well next to them. However, beans should be planted along the perimeter of the area with potatoes. In turn, it is necessary to place basil next to the beans, which will become a protection for them from grains.

Cabbage
Cabbage is a very good neighbor for many crops, so finding a place for it on the site is quite simple. Next to it, you can plant carrots, beets, beans, celery, cucumbers, beans, strawberries, leeks and tomatoes. It is undesirable to place white and red cabbage in the neighborhood. Parsley and dill take root very well next to this vegetable.
Kohlrabi is a special kind of cabbage. It is planted next to asparagus, peas, radishes, potatoes and beans. It is undesirable to place kohlrabi with horseradish, garlic and tomatoes on the same bed.

Cucumbers and zucchini
Zucchini and cucumbers are considered related plants. However, there are also some differences. The compatibility of cucumbers with other vegetables is slightly different from the compatibility of zucchini. Cucumbers get along well with peas, beans, beets, onions, cabbage, kohlrabi, fennel, basil and dill. It is not recommended to plant this vegetable with eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, radishes, watercress and radishes. For zucchini, lettuce, spinach, beans, onions and peas will be excellent allies in the garden. You should not place them next to tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, parsley, pumpkin and radishes. The compatibility of growing vegetables is very important for a good harvest. As you can see, related crops, zucchini and cucumbers, do not get along well with each other.

Onion
The best neighbor for onions is carrots. These two vegetables protect each other from pests. Therefore, experienced gardeners traditionally plant them side by side. The compatibility of onions with other vegetables is of interest to many gardeners. Good allies for onions are gourds, lettuce, cucumbers and beets. It is undesirable to place beans, asparagus, legumes and watercress next to this vegetable. Only leeks are friends with beans. The compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse is the same as in the garden.

Greenery
Dill can coexist well with many crops. It usually self-seeds and is found throughout the site. However, it is better to remove it from the carrot bed, as this is not the best union.
Basil - best neighbor for tomatoes. It also gets along well with beans, cucumbers, some types of lettuce, fennel, onions, squash, and corn. But with dill and marjoram, it coexists badly. In turn, marjoram can be placed next to onions, carrots, spinach and turnips. A bad neighbor for him is, in addition to basil, fennel.


Peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes and beets
Any kind of pepper can be planted next to tomatoes, thyme, basil, eggplant and kohlrabi. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which will be the best help to any gardener, is very important. For pepper, beets, beans and fennel will be a bad ally in the garden. Beets can be planted with dill, lettuce, zucchini and onions. Among the many types of onions, only perennial varieties are the opposite for this vegetable. Radishes and radishes can be placed next to green onions, watercress, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, spinach and lettuce. They do not get along well with horseradish, cucumbers, basil and zucchini. Delicious turnips can be planted alongside marjoram, watercress, celery, radishes, and spinach. She does not get along well with tomatoes and cabbage.

tomatoes
Tomato is one of the main vegetables in the garden. Basil is considered his best companion. It also gets along well with beans, dill, carrots, onions, radishes, celery and lettuce. Not the best place to plant this crop is the area where potatoes, peas, grapes, zucchini, cucumbers and fennel grow. If these requirements are met, then the yield can be much higher.

Pumpkin
It is impossible not to say about this culture. It is often grown in home gardens and mistakenly placed next to zucchini. As a result, a crop grows, which is characterized by low taste. These two vegetables are simply pollinated. Better gourd plant next to beans, peas or legumes. But most the best option is a separate area that is unsuitable for planting other plants (for example, compost heap). The growth of pumpkins is badly affected by the neighborhood with potatoes, peppers and eggplants. It is also undesirable to plant cucumbers and tomatoes nearby.

Conclusion
Grow plants on personal plot not so difficult. But what the crop will be depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which should always be at hand for any gardener, will help to achieve excellent results. Together with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures, the correct location of plants will allow you to get higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!

Experienced gardeners know that a successful neighborhood of different types of vegetables will help increase the yield. The table of plant compatibility during planting will help the summer resident to correctly arrange the crops in the garden. If you learn how to combine plantings well, you can grow a huge crop in a small area, and the land will not stand idle for a single day. This skill is also useful for those who do not have a land plot. On the loggia in a small box you can grow fresh vegetables for soups and salads.

Choose the Right Ancestors

Radishes, lettuces, onions, early herbs will be harvested in June. The bed is freed - you can plant other vegetables on it. The change of cultures needs to be thought out correctly: each species draws its components from the soil, and some plants enrich the earth with nutrients. During the second planting, it should be taken into account that the plantings following one after another do not have common infections and pests. It is advisable to follow the same rules when you decide how to sow a bed that was vacated last fall.

The same crops are not recommended to be grown in one place for a long time due to soil infection, but there is another reason. The roots not only supply the representatives of the flora with nutrients, they also serve as a system for excreting toxins and toxins formed during the life process. Usually, plants react poorly only to the excretions of their own species, plant peas after beets - and the soil will quickly clear.

Some plants, such as gourds, do not like fresh fertilizers; only well-rotted manure is suitable for them. Such vegetables should be planted in the area where root crops used to grow, requiring a large amount of organic matter for development.

The predecessors do not need to be removed before the second crop is planted. You can sow the ground in the greenhouse with radishes densely in early spring. By the time you need to plant tomato seedlings, make room for the bushes, and use the root crops for food. Tomatoes will grow, and you will gradually begin to remove from the garden and eat up the radishes. It turns out that at first the root crops were predecessors, and after planting tomatoes - joint plantings.

Examples of a good landing sequence:

• carrots after gourds;
• tomatoes and cucumbers after cruciferous plants;
• potatoes after greens, carrots, cabbage;
• pepper after greens or cabbage.

Wanted and unwanted neighbors

There are a lot of reasons why some plants can or cannot be planted with others. First of all, these are infections and pests. Plant potatoes next to eggplants and Colorado beetles will rush to the tasty garden, but bush beans will drive these pests away from both crops. Growing celery will lure cabbage whites, and odorous herbs will not let butterflies into the garden.

If you plant plants on the same bed, make sure that the crops have the same wishes for growing conditions. They should have similar moisture and nutrient requirements. It is desirable that each species take nutrition and moisture from its depth - for example, beans with a root that penetrates to a great depth, and potatoes with a shallow root system. If the crops are very different in height, such as corn and squash, try to arrange them so that there is enough sun for everyone.

What species can or cannot be planted next to each other, the table will tell you.

Joint plantings are sometimes practiced to mark the sowing site for seeds that take a long time to germinate. Make a carrot bed - stick radish seeds along the edges of the rows. It will take a while for the carrots to come up, but the radish leaves will show you where the rows are.

Long-term crops (late cabbage, pumpkin) need very little land at the beginning of development, and when the bushes grow, they will need space. Plant salads, radishes, early greens between seedling bushes. Compacted plantings will not let the earth be empty, and you will be provided with both early vitamins and an autumn harvest. On beds with late carrots, 3 crops can be harvested. Ready-to-eat vegetables are gradually removed, and the grown main culture becomes spacious.

If you want to try to organize mixed plantings of vegetables, the schemes may be different, for example:

• 1st row - carrots;
• 2nd row - bow;
• 3rd row - radish;
• 4th row - bow;
• Repeat until the end of the beds from the 1st to the 4th rows.

There are individualistic plants that cannot get along with anyone. In the neighborhood with other cultures, they will either grow poorly themselves, or will oppress the vegetables living nearby. Fennel has the most quarrelsome character - allocate a place for it away from other beds. In the same way, they do not like hyssop and walnut neighbors; it is impossible to find compatible crops for them. The layout of the site should take into account separate places for such individual farmers.

How do plants help each other?

If you properly understand the properties of each culture, you can arrange them on the beds so that they support and activate the development of each other. For example, lettuce and spinach stimulate the development of the root system of nearby plantings. Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, they need to be planted among plants that need nitrates. Onions and garlic secrete phytoncides that destroy infections.

The mutual influence of some species on others has a lot of nuances; at the biological faculties, a whole course of lectures is devoted to this issue. Representatives of the flora are living beings, and in different conditions they can show their qualities more or less. Much also depends on the climate: in the southern regions, combined plantings can develop perfectly, and in the Urals, both cultures will wither and get sick. If you want to create a green community in your beds, watch, keep a diary. General recommendations can be taken as a basis, and how effective they are on your site can only be determined empirically.

If you need both crops that help each other when grown together, you can grow them on the same bed in approximately the same proportions. If you want to harvest only one species, and you do not need another, plant a few bushes in the center or around the perimeter of the plantation, this will be enough.

The following plants will be good green protectors.

• Parsley will protect the vineyard from phylloxera.
• Mustard inhibits weeds, drives pests away from legumes, its roots secrete compounds that activate the development of peas and beans.
• Parsley keeps slugs away from strawberry and strawberry plantations.
• Cabbage growing next to dill is less damaged by insects and becomes tastier.
• Spicy herbs with their sharp aroma mask the smell of vegetable crops, and it becomes difficult for pests to find them.
• Predatory insects flock to the parsnips, destroying pests.
• The beans will provide the soil with the nutrients that the corn, which supports the beans, needs.
• If you plant raspberries around an apple tree, the tree will protect the berry bushes from gray rot, and they, in turn, will prevent it from getting sick with scab.
• Dill increases the duration of fruiting cucumbers.

Output

Mixed plantings not only save space on suburban area- with the right selection of crops, the plantation will yield more yield from each bush than when filling the beds with one type of plant. On poor soils, alternate vegetables with legumes: nodules on the roots of peas and beans enrich the earth with nitrogen. Green manure has the same properties, you can sow mustard or around seedlings. At first, hardy grass will protect weak tomato bushes from the sun and wind, then you mow green manure, and the roots will continue to supply the soil with nutrients. When preparing for spring sowing, first make a list of all the plants that you will plant in the beds, and only then decide how they can be combined.

When practicing mixed planting of vegetables in the garden, one must take into account not only the compatibility of species, but also the conditions in which they will grow. Pumpkin gets along well with corn, but if you plant a solid wall of tall stems on the south side of the garden, the pumpkin will not be enough sunlight and it will give a very meager harvest. It is desirable that the depth of the roots of co-growing crops be different. In this case, each plant will take moisture and nutrients from its soil layer and will not deprive its neighbor.

The general rules for combined landings can not be applied to every site, the table will give only basic recommendations, and you must figure out the details yourself. Observe how the plants in your garden live, which neighbors they are happy with, and which ones they would like to avoid, and already this summer, start preparing plans for the beds for next year. Be sure to write down your observations - next summer, most likely, you will completely forget how carrots and radishes or cabbage and potatoes got along. Every year, experience will accumulate, and then you will be able to remove as many vegetables from a small garden as you used to collect from the entire garden.

Plants are like people, and can relate to each other in different ways. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then they will live well and delight their owner.

Potatoes are good with such neighbors as: peas, beans, cabbage, but do not want to endure tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, sunflowers and pumpkins.

Tomatoes welcome the neighborhood with onions, radishes, salads and green crops, but it does not treat peas, cucumbers, potatoes, fennel and dill.

If you sow carrots next to cucumbers, cabbage, radishes, lettuces, tomatoes, beets and onions, then she will not mind at all.

Onion considers lettuce, beets, tomatoes, cucumbers and especially carrots to be his friends, but does not like beans, radishes, cabbage. Not far behind onions and garlic, he has the same preferences.

At the cabbage a good relationship with all crops, except for tomatoes and beans.

Beetroot expresses sympathy for salads, cucumbers, carrots, onions, and does not like beans and potatoes at all.

All plants are good for radishes, but not onions.

Mixed plantings:

Beans and beans welcome the neighborhood with radishes, parsley, tomatoes and rhubarb, potatoes, cucumbers, lettuces and cabbage. BUT common language with onions, garlic and peas are not found at all.

Peacefully coexists with pea plants, which are friends with beans and do not tolerate the same plants, like beans. Peas also do not tolerate beans, but they have a special love for radishes and carrots.

Celery and parsley are friends with those crops that lettuce, rhubarb and cucumbers, but do not like tomatoes and radishes.

Only spinach is friends with all crops, because the sponin secreted by its roots has a positive effect on the development and growth of all crops in the garden. Still, his favorites are potatoes, beets, beans and tomatoes.

Useful neighborhood of plants

There is evidence that alternating kale and tomato prevents caterpillars from eating cabbage, cruciferous fleas and ashes. And if the neighbor of cabbage is celery, then cruciferous fleas will not bother her much

Carrots and onions sown side by side drive pests away from each other - carrot and onion flies. Onions planted next to tomatoes in a greenhouse will ward off tomato diseases.

And how the pea codling moth loves to spoil peas! So that the crop is not destroyed, you need to sow white mustard with peas, which will also increase the yield.

What to plant with what:

Many insects do not like the smell of dill, and the radish will partially save you from many diseases. So, sow it in the aisles. It is a pity that today it is impossible to sow hemp, and yet it protected potatoes from late blight.

The neighborhood of plants is a very interesting topic. So modest, medicinal marigolds have long been known to everyone, and yet they protect plants in gardens from root rot and mites. There are no nematodes, where marigolds grow. This is a great neighbor for garden strawberries. They do not like nematodes and marigolds (Chernobrivtsy), which should be sown along the perimeter of the beds with strawberries and potatoes.

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After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshade (tomato, potato). Related crops of plants (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate "tops" and "roots" (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, squash planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, they plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, any crop can be planted.

The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root crops, onions;

For early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, legumes, root crops (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

For turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except beans), root crops (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, suffering from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root crops, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Joint planting of plants, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression) - yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the plantings of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radish and oilseed radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels pea codling moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably affected by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orypechnaya grass) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil during the formation of fruits with spruce and pine needles - significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage as neighbors prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from ground fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
Cabbage is also favored by the proximity to borage, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard, hairy leaves.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the earthen flea.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around plantings of cabbage.
Leek repels cutworm caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Parsnip attracts predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onions, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between the rows of potatoes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially with colored kohlrabi, corn, radish and different types lettuce, Horseradish planted in bushes on a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is one of the most demanding plants in terms of nutrition, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtle bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - table beet and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and onion - carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed).
By placing individual plants onions and garlic next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heal carrots.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but shun vine. If dill is sown between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and hence the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away butterflies, codling moths and protect against scab of pears and apple trees, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkins and spinach;

Lettuce repels earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onions, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by bud mites if you plant onions between bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soy is friendly with all cultures.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against the nematode.

Beans, pumpkins and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different horizons of the soil, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory are planted between the ridges of potatoes or onions, bunches of rye straw are plowed into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, mustard leaf, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a marigold border around the area on which the roses are planted, the defeat of roses by nematodes will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cineraria, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage scoop caterpillars and whitefish, and apple trees from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and red tansy close to it. These plants are also known under the names of Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

Get along with the salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of carnation gray mold.

Apple tree - raspberry

Stevia (Honey Grass) - Can grow alongside garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onion, carrot well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with swede, beans, tomato;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all kinds of onions, tomatoes, garlic, swede, beans are unfavorable;

Poor effect on peas - wormwood;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
On the kale tansy works badly.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are table beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (gooseberry fire damage);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshade - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers feud with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

The peach depresses the cherry, pear and apple tree. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Redkin's enemy is hyssop;

Lettuce is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many cultivated plants (apple, corn) suffocate in its vapors;

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel - oppresses almost all cultivated plants.

The action of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood - on beans and peas, and tansy - on leafy cabbage;

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