Why do onions rot during storage. What to do if the onion began to rot in the garden and during storage

The rot of the bottom of onions and garlic, scientifically called Fusarium, is a fairly common (and almost everywhere) fungal disease. It can develop not only during the period of growth of these crops, but also during their storage. The warmer it is in storage, the faster rot will form on the affected bulbs. The risk of developing a disgusting disease also increases significantly if onions and garlic ripen at a fairly high temperature of the soil.

Symptoms of the disease

Onion damage by various pests (for example, onion flies) contributes to the occurrence of an ill-fated disease. The development of the disease can also be provoked by an infected planting material along with contaminated soil.

The fungus that causes the disease is in the ground, becoming active in the hot season, when the temperature reaches 28 degrees or more. Its spread is possible with irrigation water, seeds and infected bulbs of onion sets.

In garlic, mainly the juicy tissues of the cloves suffer. Lesions almost always look like sores on the succulent tissues of the teeth and under the leathery scales; however, they can also give distinct areas of the head of garlic a pronounced vitreous appearance.

Garlic planted in spring is less affected by rot; more susceptible to this disease. late varieties. Very stable, for example, is considered to be the Yubileiny Gribovsky garlic variety.

Rotten onions and garlic become completely unsuitable for storage, so they are burned.

How to deal with illness

It is equally important to follow the rules of crop rotation - the return of onion and garlic crops to the former beds can be done in 3-4 years, not earlier. Moreover, cereal crops will serve as the best predecessors, and undesirable and even the worst - legumes and vegetables.

It is important to harvest the bulbs at the stage of their full maturation. Then, in sunny weather, the crop is laid out in one layer and dried in open areas; in wet weather, it is first dried under a canopy, and after that - indoors for 7-10 days (the air temperature in it should be 26-35 degrees). When cutting the onion, you should try to leave small necks 3-6 cm long.

Onions should be stored at the most optimal conditions. Sevok is stored at a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees with a relative humidity of 60 - 70%. For storage of uterine bulbs, a temperature of 2 - 5 degrees and a relative humidity of 70 - 80% are suitable. And food onions intended for human consumption are stored at a temperature of 1 - 3 degrees with a relative humidity of 75 - 80%. For better storage, the bulbs in boxes are sprinkled with dry crushed chalk (20 g of chalk per 1 kg of product).

It is necessary to regularly carry out protective measures against all kinds of pests: onion flies, thrips, etc. In the fight against them, drugs such as Aktara and Karate Zeon can provide good help. And the fungicide Quadris used against gray rot and peronosporosis helps to limit the spread of Fusarium.

Onion is a vegetable that all gardeners grow, because it is hard to imagine at least one day without using it in cooking. Rotting onions in the garden can deprive the crop, so you need to know what to do for prevention and what to do if the problem has already appeared.

Why do onions rot

If you notice premature yellowing of onion leaves, pluck the bulb and inspect it carefully, most likely you will see that the bulb has rotted. The rotting of the bulb is manifested in the fact that it becomes soft and watery, acquires bad smell. Let's try to figure out why this happens.

Rotting of onions in the garden occurs according to different reasons: these can be weather conditions that are not dependent on gardeners, and care and cultivation errors.

Infected planting material

Infected onion sets can leave you without a crop, in addition, infect the soil. Therefore, buy planting material from trusted manufacturers, take preventive measures for disinfection before planting: warm the onion sets before planting at a temperature of 45 ° C for at least half a day and soak overnight in a solution of pink potassium permanganate.

Violations of agricultural technology

For a good harvest, observe crop rotation. Make a planting plan taking into account the combination of crops, choose the right predecessors. It is best to plant onions after potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, it is permissible - after beets and zucchini. The bow should be returned to its original place after 3-5 years.

For planting onions, a bright place warmed by the sun is suitable.

It is advisable to place onion beds and rows in beds in a north-south direction so that they are well lit by the sun

Do not forget about timely weeding and loosening.

Too much moisture

When growing onions, it is important to follow the rules of watering. In dry summers, the beds should be regularly watered only until mid-summer, and 1–1.5 months before harvesting, watering should be reduced or completely stopped. In rainy summers, there is a need to drain water using drainage grooves.

Onion diseases

Diseases such as fusarium, neck and bacterial rot lead to rotting of onions in the bud.

Fusarium is caused by fungi, first the feather is affected, then the roots rot, the disease is transferred to the bottom of the bulb and, if left untreated, causes the entire bulb to rot.

Neck rot often provokes wet weather, the disease begins to develop, as a rule, shortly before harvesting. Bacterial rot also appears at the end of the growing season. Neck rot and bacterial rot are not always recognized during the growth of the bulb, bulbs affected by rot can get into storage and damage the crop later.

Photo gallery: onion diseases

Fusarium affects the bottom of the bulb Neck rot can appear at the time of feather lodging Signs of bacterial rot are visible on the cut of the bulb

Onion fly damage

The onion fly flies out at the beginning of the warm season (end of April - beginning of May). It is not the flies themselves that cause harm, but their larvae. If you notice a general inhibition of onion plantings, yellowing of the feather, inspect the bulb. It is not difficult to detect the defeat of the onion fly by the presence of white worms, which eat up both the feather and the bulb itself.

The larvae eat the flesh of the bulb, which leads to decay.

For prevention, crop rotation is important, as in cases with onion diseases. The larvae overwinter in the soil, so you should not plant onions in the same place every year.

It is good to combine planting onions with carrots, as you know, carrots repel onion flies, and onions - carrots. Parsley, celery, marigolds can also be planted next to onions.

Dusting plantings with tobacco dust and ash gives the same effect - repelling pests. Onion aisles, both for prevention and for combating onion fly damage that has begun, can be sprinkled with the following composition: 200 grams of ash and 1 teaspoon of tobacco dust and ground red pepper.

Video: ways to deal with onion fly

How to process onions from rot

When onion fly worms appear, you can water the plants by preparing a solution of 200 grams of tobacco, laundry soap and ground red pepper (1 tablespoon each). Tobacco insist in 2-3 liters of hot water for three days, then bring the volume to 10 liters, add soap and pepper.

When the feather grows by 8–10 cm, you can water the onion with a solution of table salt (250–300 grams per ten-liter bucket) every 2–3 weeks.

Insecticides can also be used to control pests. Industrial preparations Aktara, Karate Zeon, Inta-vir are suitable for spraying. Using chemicals, strictly follow the instructions for use on the packaging and observe the waiting periods: the time after processing to harvest is 14–21 days.

Photo gallery: onion pest control chemicals

One half of the prepared Aktara solution is used for watering, the other for spraying. The drug acts quickly and gives a high percentage of insect death. Inta-vir is used only with the mass appearance of pests, it is not used for prevention.

Table: prevention of onion rotting in the garden

As you can see, bulb rot occurs for various reasons. Take preventive measures, use folk remedies, if necessary - chemicals, and you will reduce onion damage by rot to a minimum and get a healthy harvest.

11 months ago

Why do onions rot in the ground? What preventive measures to take? How to get rid of onion rot?

11 months ago

Onions can rot in the ground for several reasons. The most commonplace is an excess of moisture. Onions do not need to be watered much, and if there are heavy and frequent rains, this can lead to rotting. The second reason- onion diseases.

Rot. It needs to be fought using various fungicides, which are sold in specialized stores. The third reason is the onion fly. It is also necessary to fight with him with special means:

Often the onion rots in the ground, as it is damaged by the onion fly. Onion fly larvae damage not only the feather itself, but also eat up the bulb in the ground. Try to get a rotten bulb out of the ground and examine it.

We noticed traces of eating or white worms - this is the larva of the onion fly. They fight the onion fly in different ways: these are joint plantings with other crops that repel the onion fly, this is the strait cold water, this and watering with salt water (about 2 cups of salt are dissolved in 10 liters of water). One of the unpleasant pests is the stem nematode.

As a result of the defeat of the stem nematode, the onion scales become damp, the bulb softens. As a result, rotting occurs. The onion rots in the garden due to some diseases, for example, cervical rot. In this case, grayish sagging spots appear in the region of the neck of the bulb, which then spread throughout the bulb.

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Why do onions rot in the ground

Why do onions rot in the garden. The leaves begin to dry out from the top and quickly die. The main diseases of onions.

A white mycelium is visible on the bulb around the bottom. The first time after drying, it is good to keep the sevok in the attic, scattering a thin layer on the old bedspread. Sooner or later he will mature. Onions can rot for a variety of reasons.

What preventive measures to take? However, I do not think that onions need to be “rolled” (leaves bent to the ground) for early ripening. One of them is a fungal disease Fusarium rot. How to get rid of onion rot?

It seems that this plant, which is able to protect a person from many diseases, is itself perfectly healthy.

News - why onions rot in the ground

Why do onions rot in the garden

It seems that this plant, which is able to protect a person from many diseases, is itself perfectly healthy. But summer residents will confirm that this is not so. Onions are susceptible to some diseases, and they can not always cope with pests.

A particular problem is the rotting of the bulbs, which can occur both during the growth period and during storage. Let's figure out why the onion rots in the garden. Onions can rot for a variety of reasons.

Among the sources can be called fungi - Fusarium rot. The crop should be protected from them. Fungal spores can imperceptibly undermine the body of the bulb. Once in storage, a sick specimen will infect everything around.

And not only onions, but also all the vegetables with which it comes into contact. In addition, onions do not like excessive moisture. In humid climates or during rainy times, it must be protected from moisture by drainage. So what needs to be done in practice?

Tips: Before planting, prepare a small trench, the bottom of which is covered with a small layer of sand. This is especially true for clay soils. Bulbs are planted in the sand.

The layer of sand should be a quarter of the average bulb. So excess moisture will go into the soil through the microdrainage you created. Treat the plants with a special preparation. For example, "Maxim" is suitable. The affected bulbs are kept in it before planting.

You can hold everything more likely saving the crop. If at least one affected bulb was found in the garden during the harvesting period, then it is better to secure the entire crop. To do this, the collected onion is treated with karbofos in a confined space. This is not difficult.

A plastic bag is taken, a crop is placed in it, a substance that poisons the fungus and other pests is injected, the bag is tied for half an hour - an hour. Then you need to put the crop in a solution of potassium permanganate. Not a strong color of the solution should be raspberry.

That's all processing. After that, dry the onion and store it safely. Even the onion crop can be ruined by excessive fertilizers applied to the soil. When using saltpeter, be prudent.

It accumulates in roots and bulbs. Not only is it harmful, but also the onion will not be stored. We track copyright infringement in relation to our materials, therefore, the use of materials is permitted only with the written consent of the site administration.

For several years I was not able to grow such onions as I would like, and our family needs a lot of onions. I must say that this vegetable is in a special position in our family. When my husband sits down to dinner, there should be a medium-sized peeled onion on the table.

And so every day. In summer - green onion and then bulbs. Therefore, I always grow a lot of onions. For the first years in the country, I grew family onions. But gradually she almost abandoned it. In the spring I plant 20 heads for early consumption.

I do this as soon as the land is suitable for cultivation. And on May 9-10 (and not earlier) I plant sevok. I buy different types.

Now I don't even remember the name. I just call in the store how much red, how much white and yellow. In the past, onions sometimes grew good, but then they began to rot during storage.

And when peronosporosis attacked, all the leaves rotted, the crop disappeared completely. And I began to think how to achieve a good result. I read it, I realized that it is better to plant onions in an open, wind-blown place. We have such a place on the second site.

Former swamp, where there are no trees, few bushes. There we have made narrow ridges (50 cm), fenced with croaker. I usually place onions either after potatoes or after strawberries. In the fall, I pull out all the strawberry bushes.

But I don't throw them away. I just turn the roots up and cut a little with a shovel. Then I crush it with earth.

So the bed winters. In the spring, I add growing nettles, young grass to the same bed. Until May 9-10, the bed is filled almost to the top edge of the boards with grass, which withers and rots.

Then I bring in buckets and cover with a small layer of earth. I usually plant onions in newspapers. I spread the soaked newspapers in 5 layers, sprinkle with earth, make holes with a knife and plant sevok.

I pour a small layer of earth on top of the newspapers. I want to warn you that planting in newspapers is convenient if you have narrow beds. On wide beds you are tormented. I've tried fewer layers of newspaper, but then weeds sprout in the first 3-4 weeks.

And so, - until the newspapers begin to decompose, there are no weeds, and moisture is preserved. There is no need to be afraid of newspaper paint. I found out this question a long time ago from specialists. But you should listen to the remark of one of the readers of the "First bed without problems" mailing list.

He always mulches the onion plantings with cut grass. And there are always a lot of worms in the soil that feed on rotting grass. And after mulching with newspapers, there were few worms. They had nothing to eat.

I agree with this statement, but if there is no grass for mulching, then newspapers will do. Once I tried to plant onions in a transparent film. That year there was wind on the landing day. I realized that I could not cope with the newspapers in such a wind.

She stood, looked, and her eyes caught on a bed of small strawberries. Earlier, I conducted an experiment - I planted strawberries not on a black film, but on an old transparent film. Experts say that a transparent film cannot be used as mulch, there will be solarization of the soil.

I believe them. But I decided to try differently. She spread the film, covered it with a layer (2-3 cm) of earth. And planted strawberry bushes in the holes. The harvest was good, and weeding was almost not required. And now, remembering this, I decided to plant onions like that.

She dragged the old film, chose the most whole pieces, cut it off so that the ends were lowered to the walls of the ridge and deepened a little. Then she applied land. I sprinkled about 2 cm. There was simply no strength for more.

I made holes with a large knife and planted sevok according to the usual scheme. After 2 weeks, there were young weeds on the layer of earth, I just moved the whole earth with a small flat cutter. They withered. And from below, the weeds could not break through the film.

And until July, I did not approach the bow. It grew normally, during the period of dry weather it was not required to water it, the moisture under the film was preserved. The grass rotted, gave nitrogen. Everything went well. The problem arose when it was necessary to pull out the onion. She was all wrapped up.

Only the feather was on the surface. I had to cut the film around the bulb. This was the only inconvenience. I’ll tell you how I saved the bow in a rainy August of one year.

The onion has not yet ripened, it is too early to harvest, and it rained every day. She brought low arcs, which we cut from thick wire, installed them over the onion plantings. And covered it with cling film. I lowered the ends of the film into the grooves, which we have wide and covered with old linoleum.

She pressed the film with bricks, and raised the ends as high as possible and left them uncovered. The wind needs to be free to move. Otherwise, everything will rot. Part of the garden was left without arcs and shelter. I really wanted to see what would happen to the onion without shelter. First, I began to remove the white onion.

She pulled it out, put it in cardboard fruit boxes, left it in the house for a week. And then she brought it home and placed it right in the boxes on the loggia. There was no sun. I opened the window. Made a draft.

After the white onion, I removed all varieties of yellow, the last I removed the red one. The onion that was not covered with a film was dried with special care. And was the first to be recycled. Therefore, I can not say whether he would lie for a long time or not.

When harvesting, I had to remove the film from the ridge along with the bulbs, and pick them out of the holes. But the bulbs were dry, and those that were not covered on top were damp, but the bottoms still remained dry.

Water almost did not penetrate through the film in which they grew, and rolled down to the edge of the ridges. I made this conclusion: in any rainy summer, I will throw a film on the arcs and cover any of the vegetables from excessive rainfall. And I will boldly use the old film for mulching the ridges. And the main rules that I adhere to are: 1.

Before planting, warm up the seedlings in a linen bag on a battery for 1-2 months. If the batteries are very hot, then I hook the bag onto the pipe, but away from the battery itself.2. Do not plant onions for storage before May 9.3.

It is good to fertilize the soil for onions with organic matter, but do not apply fresh manure. The soil for planting onions should be slightly acidic or neutral.5. When landing in newspapers, there must be at least 5 layers of newspapers.6. Onions can only be planted in a well-ventilated area.

It is impossible among bushes and tall plants. With such a landing, peronosporosis is not terrible.7. For the growth of foliage, onions need moisture, but as soon as the bulbs begin to ripen, watering should be stopped.8.

I never bend down the feather of the bow, as is sometimes advised. I believe that a healthy onion will ripen on time.9. It is very important to dry the onions well after harvesting.

Here it is simply impossible to overdo it.10. I store onions in the room in open boxes in the kitchen. From time to time I look, I reject.

If green sprouts appear, I plant the bulbs in flower pots and get green onions. Since I started planting onions in newspapers, I have no problems with onion fly. I tried to grow onions from seeds in one year. Now there are varieties.

Farming is similar to growing leeks. I hope that readers of this text will leave their comments or send a description of their experience.

Comments

#Guest06.09.2010 05:45 This is the second year I have been growing onions from seeds (nigella). In early May, I sow the seeds in seedling boxes, when planting, I put sand into the beds at the rate of half a bucket per square meter, my beds are narrow. The sand does not allow the earth to shackle the sprouts and quickly conducts water.

When planting in the beds, I pinch the roots and close up only the roots, if you plant deep onions, they will simply rot. For the first two weeks, it seems that the onion has died, the feather turns yellow, but new feathers appear in its place.

During the summer I do not allow to tear the feather for food, at the end of July I stop abundant watering and rake the ground so that there are bulbs on the surface. My achievement - three bulbs pulled out 960g (although I don’t remember the name of the variety).

Tamara and Penguin planted seeds this year. Reply#Administrator06/09/2010 08:31 Thank you very much for your advice. I also grew onions from seeds in one season. But I never saw such a size of an onion even in my dreams!

His images are on the walls of the Egyptian pyramids. In nature, there are 228 various kinds Luke. But people cultivate only 12.

Onion Fly (Delia antiqua) ^

These harmful insects, or rather their larvae, are equally dangerous to both traditional onions and more “noble” varieties - chives, shallots, leeks, etc. During the flowering of dandelion and lilac (approximately in the second half May), the female onion fly lays her eggs in the soil next to the plant or under the first dry scales and between the green leaves of the onion. After 5-8 days, the larvae penetrate into the bulb (mainly from the side of the bottom) and begin to feed intensively. The onion in the garden turns yellow, and then it completely dies. To permanently ruin this pest's appetite, we recommend using the following methods. The onion fly is a malicious onion pest

• Plant onions in the soil as early as possible. Then he will have time to gain strength before the flies appear. Sow onions along with carrots. The fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots. Use repellents during summer and egg laying, for example, mix 200 g of wood ash with 1 tsp. tobacco dust and 1 tsp. ground pepper, powder 1 sq.m. onion planting. After the procedure, loosen the soil. Against the larvae, into the soil for 15 sq.m. you can add 30 g of Bazudin granules mixed with 0.5 liters of sand. Do not plant onions every year in the same place. A bed for onions can be used every four years. At the beginning of summer, flies (if Bazudin was not added to the soil), onion plantings can be treated with Confidor, Leptocid, Mospilan, Nurell-D. If the larvae have already penetrated the bulb (the feather wilts, the tips of the leaves turn yellow ), then spraying with Creocid PRO will help save the plantings.

The exit of onion fly larvae from eggs There is another folk method onion fly control - saline treatment (200 grams of salt per 10-liter bucket of water). The effect is enhanced by adding a small amount of ammonia.

The first watering is carried out when the length of the pen reaches 8 cm. In this case, you should try not to get on the leaves. During the season, 2-3 such procedures may be required, before the summer of a new generation of flies.

This method has been tested for years, but it leads to salinity of the soil, and an excess of chlorine and sodium inhibits the plants. Therefore, it must be used very carefully. The development of the larvae lasts about 3 weeks, then they go into the soil to pupate.

After a certain time, a new generation appears, and everything starts all over again. The second generation harms in mid-late July. In the southern regions, the onion fly can also give the third generation. Pupae overwinter at a depth of 4 to 10 cm. This beetle feeds on onion leaves.

Its larvae (yellowish, with a brown head, legless, about 0.7 cm) eat out longitudinal passages in the pulp of the leaves, translucent through the skin. Of course, onion plantings turn yellow in the beds. To get rid of the secretive proboscis, it is necessary to carry out: The onion beetle secretive proboscis lives throughout Russia

• thorough cleaning of the beds after harvest. Unharvested onion residues are an ideal place for the beetle to winter; deep digging of the soil before the onset of cold weather. The beetle does not tolerate frost; if the pest is not numerous, then it can be collected. By the way, the beetles are very shy, at the slightest touch they fall to the ground; loosening the aisles with the addition of repellents (wood ash, ground red and black pepper, mustard powder) with mass resettlement during the growing season, onions can be sprayed with "Karbofos" at the rate of 60 g ( 1 package) per 10 liters of water. 1 liter of the resulting solution is treated with 10 sq.m. landings. After processing, the feather should not be eaten for some time.

The larva of the secretive beetle at the crime scene

Stem (onion) nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci Kuhn) ^

Innocent-looking, barely noticeable thread-like "worm". Adults and larvae feed on plant sap, as a result of which the onion feathers turn yellow and dry out.

The bottom is destroyed, the rudiments begin to grow through the cracks, it seems that the bulb turns outward. The main danger of these microscopic (1-1.5 mm) pests is that they occupy the soil for decades. Determining the presence of nematodes in non-onion beds is very difficult. However, over the centuries-old history of the fight against this pest, very effective fighting techniques have been invented and tested: Stem nematode (visible only under a microscope)

• Do not plant onions in one place, return to the previous bed no earlier than after 4 years. Plant only healthy planting material. Before planting, onion sets should be healed by immersion in hot water(45 degrees) for 6 minutes or in a salt solution (for 3 liters of water 3 tablespoons of salt) for 20 minutes. Sow calendula or tagetis (marigolds) between rows of onions. You can water the onions with tincture of marigolds.

Onion (tobacco) thrips (Thrips tabaci Lind) ^

A yellowish or brownish insect, the body length of which is not more than 1 mm. The larvae are wingless, grey-white or greenish-yellow. Thrips damage not only onions, but also garlic, cucumbers, flower crops. They feed on plant sap by sucking it out.

Leaves wither, turn yellow, dry out. They hibernate in the upper layer of soil, on the remains of vegetation, under onion scales. Females lay brownish small eggs singly in leaf tissue.

The larvae hatch after 5 days.

• Crop rotation; Pre-planting 10-minute disinfection of sevka hot water(45 ° C) with further immersion in cold water; Spraying plantings with a solution of "Confidor" (1 ml per 10 liters of water) or "Sparks" (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). Per 100 sq.m. use 10 liters of insecticidal solution.

It causes great damage to onion plantings in dry, warm weather. The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry from the tops, longitudinal asymmetric spots appear on them, called mines. The first generation of caterpillars harm in late May - June.

Butterflies are small (no more than 0.8 cm, with a wingspan of up to 1.4 cm). Their summer takes place in July, exclusively at night. Females lay yellowish eggs 0.5 mm in size singly on the soil near plants or at the base of leaves.

The caterpillars that have appeared (yellowish-green in color with brownish warts, about 1 cm long) penetrate the leaves and feed there. In October, butterflies hatch from pupae, wintering in shelters. In the spring they start flying.

How did weather conditions affect the price of potatoes and onions?

• Cleaning of plant residues; Digging the soil before frost; Spraying during the summer onion moth with a solution of "Iskra" (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). 1 liter of insecticidal solution is enough for 10 sq.m. onion planting.

The most effective method of combating harmful insects is "war on all fronts." The fact is that both the onion fly, and the nematode, and the secretive trunk beetle can safely eat, so to speak, at the same table.

Therefore, we recommend using the above measures in combination. For example, combine non-chemical methods of nematode control with measures against the onion fly (ash mulching, pollination with tobacco dust, etc.).

The health of the onion, which will be stored in the fall, needs to be taken care of even when planting or sowing it. The correct alternation of crops on the site will help prevent pest damage and disease damage: onions are planted after cucumbers, early potatoes and white cabbage, return to the same bed no earlier than 3 years later, sown together with carrots.

Before planting, the bulbs are disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) or biological products:,. When growing, repellents are used: infusion of shag or garlic, tobacco dust or wood ash.

Onion rot during storage can cause onion root mite, stem nematode, and fungal diseases. If the onion scales are covered with brown dust or black mold and the bottom falls out, then the root mite has damaged the bulb. If they are gray and the bulb is soft, and then rots, they are damaged by the stem nematode. Gray spots at the neck and subsequently throughout the bulb, and an ash-gray mycelium is visible on the cut - they are infected with neck rot. Onions are also affected by transference, white rot of the bottom, when a white felt coating appears on the bulb, wet rot - a large light or pinkish spot appears around the end of the stem. Harvest damage and improper storage can also cause onions to rot.

onion fly- a small (6-7 mm) ash-gray insect with dark legs. Larvae are 6-7 mm long, white, have neither legs nor head. The fly overwinters in the soil at the pupal stage in a false yellowish-brown cocoon. Appears on crops in April - early May. The larvae bite into young plants from the side of the bottom. Damaged plants rot, the leaves turn yellow, wither and dry out.

root mite very small (0.7-1.1 mm), whitish, with four pairs of brown legs; its anterior part is narrowed, brownish, covered with hairs. Root mites live in the soil. The root mite inhabits onions, both during the growing season and during storage. It penetrates the bulbs through the bottom, and then settles between the scales, which it feeds on.

It is recommended to plant healthy planting material, remove rotten bulbs, warm up the onion before storing it at a temperature of 35-37 ° C for 5-7 days. In the premises intended for the storage of onions, sulfur is fumigated (50-100 g of sulfur per 1 cubic meter throughout the day). Fumigation of gray seedlings, sprinkling of onions with dry chalk (2 kg / 100 kg of onions) during storage prevents the spread of the tick. Plantings are watered (1-3 ml per plant) with a working solution containing 40-75 ml of garlic concentrate (170-200 g / l) in 1 liter of water.

onion race stem nematode distributed in Ukraine in all areas of onion cultivation. This is a worm 1-1.5 mm long, transparent. The adult nematode and its larvae feed on plant sap. It harms plants from the onion, amaryllis and lily families. In infected plants, the stems and leaves are pale, thickened and twisted, flabby, then they turn yellow, wither, the roots dry out, the bottom becomes rotten and may fall off during storage. In young plants, the curvature and swelling of the cotyledons is observed, the loops do not unfold for a long time, and the seed coat breaks off in the soil. In onions of the 2nd year of cultivation, the first period is asymptomatic, and in the second month of vegetation, thickened and torn scales appear, the bottom of the bulb cracks, the plants turn yellow and lie down. Infected bulbs rot during storage. The main source of infection is planting material.

The introduction of green fertilizer, chicken manure into the soil significantly increases the number of bacteria and beneficial nematodes in it, which kill phytohelminths. A good effect is the mulching of the soil with green manure crops. Nematocidal plants are also used in the form of mulch, added to the soil (2%). In terms of efficiency, mulching with them is not inferior to the processing of pesticides. For example, celandine mulch reduces the number of phytohelminths in the soil by 90-95%. Apply and infusion of green mass of celandine, wormwood. green mass crushed, pour boiling water in a ratio of 1: 1, insist for a day and squeeze. Plants are watered at the rate of 80-100 ml per 0.5 kg of soil.

thrips- tobacco is used: dried raw materials are ground to form a powder. To prepare the infusion, 400 g of dried raw materials and plant waste are kept in 10 liters of water for 2 days. The decoction, the proportions are the same, insist 24 hours, boil for 2 hours and dilute with water 1:10. Yarrow - scald 800 g of dried crushed plants with boiling water, add 10 liters of water, leave for 36-48 hours, or make a decoction in the same proportions (boil for 30 minutes). It is better to harvest yarrow at the beginning of summer, collecting the entire aerial part of the plant.

Most dangerous disease bow - transferorosis(false powdery mildew). The leaves turn yellow and die, especially in wet weather. Onion crops can die within 2-5 days. From the leaves, the pathogen penetrates into the bulb, where it remains in the form of mycelium. Affected bulbs when planted in the field are a source of infection for the entire plantation. In areas of seed onions, arrows are affected. The source of infection are seeds and plant debris.

neck rot most often affects turnips and shallots. The source of infection is planted bulbs, a fungus that overwintered on the soil surface, as well as infected seeds. Rot first appears on the neck, and then passes to the scales and the bottom of the bulb. On the cut, the affected tissue looks like boiled, the bulb is wrinkled and covered with a gray coating (sporulation). The bulbs become infected while still in the field, but the disease manifests itself after 1-1.5 months, already during storage. Infection of bulbs also occurs during harvesting when pruning leaves. In storage, the fungus spreads from diseased bulbs to healthy ones, so lesions are often observed that progress when the storage regime is violated. The resistance of plants is reduced by the direct application of manure under the onion. White varieties of onions are more affected. Limits the incidence of planting bulbs on light sandy soils.

White rot of the bottom. Sclerotial rot affects plants in temperate climates. This happens at different stages of onion development. First, in the affected plants, the leaves turn yellow and die, and then the roots. A white fluffy coating of mycelium appears on the surface of infected tissues. The optimum temperature for the development of the disease is 10-20°C. Common in southern regions fusarium rot. In affected plants, leaves die off at the end of the growing season, starting from the top. A white felt coating appears on the bottom. The bulb becomes soft, watery and rots. The disease continues to develop during the winter storage of onions. The disease is favored by the increased temperature of the soil during the period of onion ripening, as well as damage by the onion fly. The causative agent is stored in the soil for a long time, up to 5-6 years.

wet rot- the causative agent of this type of rot penetrates the bulb even in the garden through damage caused mostly by insects. In this case, a light or pinkish spot forms around the stem end of the bulb. The bulb in this place softens and looks like it is saturated with water. The first outer layer of scales is healthy, and the next two become yellow-brown. With a strong defeat, the entire bulb softens, becomes slippery, acquires an unpleasant odor. During storage, the disease spreads to neighboring bulbs, and they rot. Planted affected bulbs do not germinate.

Zoya Leonidovna BEREST,
candidate of biological sciences,
Kyiv Club OZ.

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Large losses of onion harvested for storage occur due to the fact that the bulbs begin to rot. The problem of rot formation, which leads to significant deterioration of onions, appears as a result of several reasons.

The reasons for the formation of rot can be infected planting material, violation of agricultural technology during cultivation, non-compliance with mandatory measures during harvesting, wrong storage conditions.

Rot is a fungal disease. It manifests itself under favorable conditions for this. Conditions for the appearance of rot can occur at any stage, both during the growing process and during storage.

planting material

Infected planting material not only harms the future crop - it can infect the soil for several years. Therefore, before planting, onion sets must be heated at a temperature of 45-48ºС for at least 10 hours, and then cooled.

Immediately before planting, in order to disinfect and exclude infection with a fungus, the seeds are soaked for 1-2 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

A healthy harvest requires the right observe crop rotation and annually change landing sites rather than planting onions in the same place year after year. Correct predecessors for onions are cucumbers, potatoes and white cabbage.

When planting onions, it is advisable to use pest repellents - tobacco dust, tincture of shag or garlic, wood ash. The sealing plantings of dill and velvet help perfectly.

Leads to the formation of rot in the beds over watering. Therefore, regular watering is carried out until mid-summer, and a month and a half before the start of harvesting, watering is reduced to a minimum or stopped altogether. Excess moisture during the growing season adversely affects the keeping quality of onions. Excessive watering leads to the occurrence of viral and fungal diseases of onions - neck rot and gray rot.

It is advisable to harvest onions only in dry weather. From the ground, the bulbs are selected very carefully so as not to damage them. Dug up onions are dried in a warm, dry and well-ventilated place. Heads are placed for permanent storage after the husk covering the bulb becomes completely dry. Only absolutely whole and healthy heads are selected for storage.

Storage

The room in which the onion will be stored must be absolutely dry. It is desirable to maintain the same temperature in it, without sharp fluctuations. Onions are perfectly stored in an ordinary city apartment, provided that there are no sudden changes in temperature. The most optimum temperature for proper storage of onions - 18ºС and slightly higher.

Storage container the onion should pass air well so that excess moisture does not appear, which will certainly provoke the appearance of rot. It is necessary to regularly audit onion stocks in order to remove rotten heads that will very quickly infect healthy bulbs.

Excessive moisture and low temperature are the most favorable conditions for the occurrence of rot during storage for onions. An incorrectly selected variety for storage will also lead to onion rotting.

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