Do-it-yourself metal roofing device. Installation of metal tiles - the technology of roofing from metal tiles

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wet wooden elements, resulting in decay.

Relying completely on light weight and an impressive area of sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, to self-assembly metal tiles should be properly prepared, i.е. get acquainted with the nuances of the construction of the truss structure, battens and roofing cake.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged along wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a roof made of metal tiles is possible on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of the truss system for warm roof with metal tiles there are rules, these are:

step between rafter legs must not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On mansard roofs, the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope is separate. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air flows under the metal sheets without interference and also exits. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to strengthen the slope and give it cruelty in case it is planned to equip the roof with an organized drain or hem overhangs vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plank, the latter covers the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier, a gap should be created by installing the crate.
Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5 cm.
The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. That's why this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except for polymeric waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying metal tiles in without fail installed:

Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, data metal parts set with tension.
Cornice droppers, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. Represents metal corner, repeating the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
Lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wireØ 6mm. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of 1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. Even the home master will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
Build a horse. To do this, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

Mounted on the laid coating drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and guardrails, if planned.

Excellent pinning device information on the roof solid roof from a metal tile with his master's hands will become detailed video instruction:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.

28.09.2017 0 comments

The need for reliable and high-quality overlapping of structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers increasingly prefer metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet. Seemingly complex laying of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully completed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, the availability of the necessary tools should be based on certain theoretical knowledge in order to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and helpful tips presented in this material.

In contact with

Classmates

Coating advantages and disadvantages

In favor of choosing a metal tile, the following qualities of roofing material can be cited:

environmental friendliness - there are no harmful substances and compounds in the composition;
light weight - 3.6-5.2 kg / m2;
excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffeners, gives a properly installed metal tile sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg / m2;
installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
Fire safety;
aesthetic classic look with a wide choice of material of various thicknesses, profiles, protective coating and colors;
minimum linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to its differences.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. Metal roofing has:

The tendency to form condensation on the surface of the sheet from the temperature difference between the outside air and the attic. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
Noise when exposed to precipitation (rain, hail) and from contact with wind-swaying tree branches.

Both problems are greatly mitigated mandatory insulation roof from the attic. Insulating "pie" shifts the "dew point" outward and at the same time performs the role of sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary fittings

To order full set materials for the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to measure the prepared structure. To be measured:

Slope length - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower cornice board. The main indicator is considered the maximum with the addition of a canopy allowance.
Slope widths.
The lengths of the outer (ridges) and inner (valleys) angles and their summation.
Lengths of ridges and cornices along the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or a roof plan. According to this sketch, a sales consultant or specialist construction company will be able to accurately calculate the required number of sheets of metal tiles of various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of a metal tile). The selection of sheets of the required dimensions will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of sheets of metal tiles on the 1st of the slopes of the hip roof.

When calculating the number of sheets, their useful area is taken into account, which is 8-12% less than the total area due to the overlap of the sheets with each other. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, a ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. On the roof plan, existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormer, dormers), chimneys should be marked. Their finishing at the junction with the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

The main installation work is preceded by mandatory preparatory work. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage, check:

The correctness of the assembled truss system, the accuracy of its geometry.
The presence of crates, counter-lattices. Correspondence of the section of the molded material and the pitch of the lathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
The presence of a solid or additional cornice crate for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
The integrity of the insulation membranes.
The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for strengthening in the valleys.
The possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this, obligatory eaves and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the cornice part, ventilates and dries the seamy side of the metal tile from possible condensate, and is removed through the ridge zone.
Was the processing of the wooden structure carried out by special means for fire and biological protection.

The device of the truss system, lathing and hydrovapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

For the provided water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
Eaves strips are nailed (step 30 cm) with galvanized nails. A waterproofing film laid under the crate is slightly let down on the bar and cut off.
The first sheet of metal tiles to be laid is leveled at the pediment and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the ridge, the other at the eaves.
The next three sheets are temporarily fixed and the whole block is aligned.
Now you need to fix all the sheets of tiles on the crate.
Further, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
The edges of the profile of the metal tile should not reach the axis of the ridge at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then ridge strips are fastened at the highest points of the profile with self-tapping screws (30-80 cm step).
The gable plank is installed from the bottom up: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover the top line of the profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

When the full size sheets of shingles are in place, the interior corners are finished. Even at the preparatory stage, additional sheathing boards were stuffed in the valleys to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself from the bent sheet is laid from below to the ridge. Vertical overlap of sheets - 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the axis of the valley is 0.5 m per side.

On the laid sheets of the gutter, markings are made (10 mm on the sides of the axis of the valley), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. Cut, according to the markup, sheets of metal tiles are placed in their places and attached to the crate no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. An indicator of proper fastening is the absence of gaps between the tiles and the sealant and the tight fit of the sheet to the board of the crate at the point of fastening. If the edges of the tile fit to the valley were cut off unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All flaws will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

The pipes passing through the roof and ventilation shafts along the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the crate under the sheets of tiles, the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. Under the lower profile, a “tie” is wound up and fastened - a flat triangular sheet with a flanging - to ensure the removal of water entering under the roof from the pipe towards the eaves. After mounting the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for by the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, railings, ventilation outlets, walkways and other accessories are united by general rule fastenings - through sheets of roofing material directly to the crate using synthetic gaskets.

A metal tile is a measured material, the length of the sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage, a flat area is selected with wooden beams installed every 0.5 m. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down from above (in 2-3 places) with a load that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
The supply of roofing material to the roof is carried out along two boards, as if along guides.
The use of a "grinder" when working with a metal tile should be excluded, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned through) in places where hot metal filings hit it. Second important point– The warranty for sheets cut with this power tool is voided by the manufacturer.
Seals are not used under the decorative overlay of the valley. When fixing the overlays, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by self-tapping screws.
The wall adjoining profile can be mounted immediately on the wall plane or in a prepared strobe with the obligatory sealing of the joint with a sealant.
A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pieces / m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for fastening the tiles to the crate is 25 mm, between each other - 19 mm.
Usually, a metal tile is attached to the crate in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
Working with metal tiles requires maximum accuracy and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, shoes with soft soles are used.

The technology of mounting a roof from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following her points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of overlapping the building from the agenda for 50 years.

In contact with

Metal tile - the most popular roofing material, successfully combining not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. The installation of a roof made of metal tiles requires strict adherence to the technology of work.

When the installation of the metal roof is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint.

From overalls you will need:

gloves;
protective glasses;
shoes with soft soles.

From the tools you need to prepare:

screwdriver;
construction stapler;
a hammer;
tape measure with a rag tape;
jigsaw;
hacksaw with fine teeth;
scissors for metal, manual or electric nibblers;
manual circular electric saw with carbide cutting elements.

Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is forbidden to use a grinder and any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!

Otherwise, you not only reduce operational properties roofs, but also automatically lose the warranty of the manufacturer of metal tiles.

Taking measurements and calculating materials

From metal tiles

The metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50 mm. The area of the waves, excluding the top and bottom cut, is the usable area of the sheet. To calculate the number of rows of required sheets horizontally, it is necessary to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets in a row can be calculated by dividing the total length of the sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. The total length of the sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang by 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, an inclined ridge, the length should completely cover all bevels.

When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths, the expansion coefficient of the metal is less, respectively, the tension of the metal is less and the likelihood of self-tapping screws breaking, loosening of holes and destruction of the metal in these places. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.

To minimize waste, before buying a metal tile, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting scheme, taking into account the joints, so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.

When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.

When calculating the amount of insulation, the total roof area is multiplied by 0.2 m (recommended insulation thickness).

When calculating the additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).

The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1 m2 of metal tiles / 1 m of additional elements.

All calculations are made with rounding up.

Rules for the construction of the truss system

Scheme of a hanging truss system of a gable roof.

When planning the truss system, the features of the shape of the roof, wind and snow load are taken into account. For a roof made of metal, experts recommend a distance between the rafters of 600-900mm. As a material for rafters, wood species with a moisture content of not more than 18-22% are suitable. Previously, all wooden elements of the truss structure, including the crate and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.

If roof insulation is planned, holes up to 2.5 cm in diameter are drilled in the upper lateral part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm to create additional inter-rafter ventilation.

The old truss structure can also be the basis for a metal roof.

Before the construction of the truss system (including if it will be carried out on the old roof), make sure that the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes diagonally, check the horizontalness of the cornice, ridge, kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.

According to building codes - 14 °. In conditions of snowy winters and rainy climate, the recommended angle of inclination is 20-30°.

Installation of cornice and frontal boards, filing the cornice

Usually, the installation of a roof involves the presence of either a cornice or a frontal board.

Variants of knots of a tiled roof.

The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is fixed in special grooves cut in the rafters in order to avoid increasing the height of the truss structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves on the cornice board for them. Installation of long hooks is carried out before the installation of metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of the metal tile is completed. They are attached to the frontal board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs amplifying and protective functions.

For filing the cornice on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the frontal board, a bar is horizontally stuffed. Then, between it and the frontal board, a crate is made in the form of transverse bars, on which the hemming material is then attached (corrugated board, siding or spotlights that match in color and material with the metal tile).

The basic rule when filing a cornice is to ensure free air flow into the under-roof space due to ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps over the roof is proportional to the areas of its individual elements.

Ventilation gaps are provided either between the lining panels (with the exception of perforated spotlights), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the last lining panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grate with small cells.

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.

The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while possessing vapor permeability. It is forbidden to use when constructing a roof made of metal tiles as waterproofing material bituminous!

If it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated roof ridge seal due to ventilation gaps between the metal tile and the waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and the insulation (two-circuit ventilation).

The waterproofing film is rolled out without turning over from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Places of overlap must be isolated with a special tape on an adhesive basis. Please note that the places of overlaps fall on the wooden elements of the truss structure and the crate.

To exclude tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size from the cold and the "play" of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the legs of the rafters. If you are using anti-condensate or classic waterproofing, double-circuit ventilation is required with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.

The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line, and cover the end boards at the ends. The overlap on the walls of such roof elements as chimneys and ventilation pipes must be at least 50 mm with an additional layer laid around.

Lathing device, installation of the lower valley

For a roof with an interrafter pitch of 900 mm, boards with a section of 30x100 mm are suitable for the lathing, and with a section of 25x100 mm with a pitch of 600 mm. In the case of increasing the distance between the rafters, when installing the crate, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The height of the section of the lowest (initial) lath of the crate should be greater than the height of the other laths by the height of the wave of the sheet, since the top of the metal tile step lies on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the eaves. The second purlin is fastened with a step of 280mm, and all subsequent ones - with a step of 350mm.

The fastening point of the ridge rail must be reinforced with two additional rails in 50mm increments. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the other boards of the crate to create a ventilation gap.

Around the protruding elements of the roof, a continuous crate is made. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the crate must also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the crate. A waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should go to the cornice board.

Installation of sheets of metal

The scheme of installation of sheets of metal.

The lifting of sheets of metal tiles to the roof is carried out with the help of ropes along two guide lags fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on a metal tile is allowed only in places where the wave is deflected and only along the contour of the crate.

Each metal tile sheet has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually start laying on the side where you do not need to cut the sheet. Sheets can be mounted both from left to right, and vice versa with an overlap in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.

Basic rules for laying metal tiles

Docking "along the waves" to protect the roof from side wind. Self-tapping screws at the docking point are screwed into the crest of the joined wave just below the stamping line. First of all, tighten the longitudinal joints.
Docking "in rows" with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the cornice line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the crate with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly applied to the slope, you should screw in the remaining screws and finally fix the docked row.

To use roofing screws with an EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof standard sizes 4.8x28mm. Screwing is carried out at the places where the sheet is attached to the crate into the base of the wave perpendicular to the crate to the state of a slightly compressed gasket, the steel chips are removed with a brush with soft bristles.

To the initial plank of the crate, the sheets are attached above the step through the wave, and to the subsequent purlins - through the longitudinal wave to every second transverse one as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile in the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.

The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner, or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.

Installation of the end plate, upper valley and junction bars

The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is closed with an end plank, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a step of 350 mm and with an overlap of 100 mm.

The end bar is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turned out that the bottom ridge fell on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet up.

Carrying out the installation upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in such a way as to exclude their passage through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be broken. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (adjacency strips) and the metal tile.

Installation of the ridge bar and snow retainer

The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50 mm for unimpeded evaporation of moisture. In places of point ventilation holes, a sealant must be applied. The ridge plank should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end on the end planks with a 20-30 mm edge protrusion by fastening to the upper ridge and the crate through the wave. In order to avoid blowing snow under the ridge, an aero roller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.

To prevent an avalanche from the roof of snow is necessary. Even at the stage of the crate installation, provide for the intended attachment points of this support element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. carried out parallel to the cornice with fastening under the second transverse step of the metal tile sheet.

Metal roofing also needs to be grounded in order to ensure the safety of the entire building as a whole.

When the metal tile is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of operation of the roof, check the condition of the screws, if necessary, tighten loose ones.

The metal tile is extremely popular, because it has significant advantages over other roofing materials. Using a metal tile when covering the roof, you will provide the house with reliable protection from aggressive environmental influences. Consider,how to cover a roof with metal tilesand what it takes.

The advantages of this material include:

low cost;
pleasant appearance;
reliability;
light weight;
long operational period.

What will be required in the work

Before starting work, you need not only to carefully study the instructions, but also take care of all the necessary materials and tools. First of all it is:

metal scissors;
roulette;
a hammer;
hacksaw;
marker;
stapler with galvanized staples;
wooden lath of suitable length;
screwdriver;
drill.

Note! It will be quite difficult to cut a metal tile of a complex profile with hand scissors, so it is better to use power tools for this (if possible).

It is also worth noting that the material is covered with a special polymer coating, which in no case can be damaged - it performs an anti-corrosion function. For this reason, all cutting options that involve heating the cut area should be excluded. The optimal tool for cutting can be a "grinder", but onlywith abrasive wheel.

With regards to necessary materials, then for work you will need:

metal tile;
board for the construction of the crate, 2.5x10cm;
wooden beam, 2.5x5 cm;
mineral wool for insulation;
waterproofing (any, except bitumen).

Immediately make a reservation that this material is not suitable for all types of roofing. The fact is that the roof must meet certain requirements, namely:

be sloping;
have a slope of more than 14°;
have a simple geometry.

If the roof is complex structure, albeit straight, then during installation it will be necessary to make more than a dozen trimmings, which will increase material consumption(After all, most of it will simply go to waste). Consequently, this will greatly increase the cost of building materials and the installation itself.

Preliminary measurement of the roof

You need to start work with a competent measurement of the roof, its length and width - this will allow you to calculate the required amount of materials. With a slope width of not more than six meters, the length of one sheet should be equal to this width (with a small margin for the eaves). But if the width of the building exceeds six meters, then the sheet is divided into two parts, which are installed with an overlap of about 10 cm.

The tile sheet itself should be at least 4 cm longer than the slope. The fact is that the sheet is attached to the slope, slightly overlapping the eaves. This makes it possible to provide good ventilation under the roof ridge.

After that, the roof must be measured diagonally. It is also worth making sure that the roof has the correct geometric shape. Moreover, at this stage, all defects and distortions that need to be corrected immediately will be detected.

Before proceeding with the installation of the lathing and laying the tiles, it is necessary to provide for the roof good waterproofing. This will prevent condensation on the inside of the roof, and even after a leak, moisture will be retained by a special substance - absorber.

The most accessible and therefore popular insulating material is considered a vapor barrier film. Treated with a special absorbent substance, it is installed directly above the room.

Insulation must be applied to truss system so that the initial layer of the overhang does not exceed 2 cm. The next layers overlap approximately 15 cm. A small sag can be left between the rafters, but not more than 2 cm. Galvanized nails or a mounting stapler are used to fix the film.

In parallel with waterproofing, the roof should also be insulated. Insulation boards are placed between the rafters. If the material is made in the form of mats, then it must be fixed with the same mounting stapler (in this case, everything depends on the material chosen, this issue has already been discussed in one of the previous articles).

Assembly of the crate

To assemble the crate, it is necessary to fix the waterproofing layer along the slope wooden bars. Then boards 2.5 cm thick and 10 cm wide are attached to the bars.

Note! Installation of boards must begin from the bottom! At the same time, the first board should be approximately 1-2 cm thicker than the others, because it is on it that the edges of the sheets of metal tiles will be installed.

The step between the boards can be different, from 30 to 45 cm, depending on the transverse profile of the roofing material. It is characteristic that between the first and second boards the step should be approximately 4 cm smaller than between other purlins. Before starting work, all wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic and (if possible) flame retardant.

When installing the crate, you should Special attention give to auxiliary elements.

On both sides of the roof, you need to install additional bars on the rafters - this will increase the reliability of fixing the ridge.
When installing waterproofing, it needs to be brought to the chimney for a couple of centimeters and sealed with reinforced tape - this will help hide the gaps that have formed. On the chimney itself, it is necessary to make strobes (small grooves) 2 cm deep. Upon completion of the installation work, adjoining strips must be installed in these strobes and the joints should be insulated with silicone sealant.
Valleys should be installed on the gaps formed between the slopes. To do this, a solid crate is mounted from the boards with an additional layer of waterproofing. Each of the valleys should be installed above the cornice strip and secured with self-tapping screws every 25 cm.
On the frontal board with self-tapping screws, you need to install a cornice bar and fix it every 25 cm. Such a bar must withstand strong winds, so it is installed with an overlap of 12 cm.

Tiling works are carried out in the following order.

First stage. Actually, we have already considered it above - it consists in installing a cornice strip to the frontal board of the crate. Once again, we remind you of the mandatory 12-centimeter overlap.

When gable roofyou need to start work from the end of the slope. If it was decided to cover from the right slope, then each next sheet is set on the extreme wave of the previous one. But if the material falls from the left end, then a new sheet is installed under the extreme wave of the one in front of it.
hipped roof you need to cover from the highest point, gradually descending (it's all about the features of the geometric shape of the hipped roof).

All sheets must be laid parallel to the eaves, with a mandatory 4-centimeter plumb line.

Third stage . If sheets are installed in one row , then the first of them must be aligned along the eaves and fixed for a while with a self-tapping screw in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge. The second sheet must be aligned with the first and temporarily connected. So it is necessary to install two more sheets, then align the formed block along the cornice and fix it on the crate with self-tapping screws.

When multi-row layingmetal tiles, the first sheet must be installed at the bottom, secured with a self-tapping screw and aligned along the end and cornice. The second sheet of tiles is installed on top, the third one is on the side. All of them are temporarily fastened with self-tapping screws. Then you need to align the formed block and finally fix it on the crate.

Finally, if the ramp hastriangular shape, then first you need to determine and designate the center line on it. The same line should be drawn on the tile sheet. Then both lines are combined, the sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws. Subsequent installation is carried out on both sides of the first sheet.

Fourth stage . Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the recesses of the sheetsin one wave. Each new row of screws should be staggered relative to the previous one. For each square meter material should come out by 7-8 screws.

Overlaps need to be strengthened in each wave.

When covering the roof with metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the reliability of the fastening of the sheets and the accuracy of their joining.

As a conclusion

All work must be carried out in accordance with the instructions given, make sure that the wooden elements are thoroughly dried and there are no signs of decay on them. This is the only way to achieve durability and reliability of the structure, as well as an attractive appearance roofs.

Video - Installation instructions for metal tiles

If you are engaged in the construction of a house, you must outline for yourself some vectors of work, a plan that will bring clarity and structures the chaos.

Let's determine what steps precede the finished and harmonious look of the finished roof.
2. Carrying out calculations - how not to make a mistake with the order of the roof
3. Use of styling materials and tools
4. Preparing the surface for laying tiles
5. Important technical points for laying tiles
6. Differences in the shape of the slopes - rectangular, trapezoidal and triangular
8. Errors when fixing metal tiles

The emphasis in this article will be on metal tiles, as one of the most popular types of roofing and the issue of its installation requires special attention. Following the instructions for installing a metal tile guarantees you that the roof will be reliable, airtight and aesthetically beautiful.

1. Choice of tiles: which roofing material to choose

How do you know which roofing material to choose for your home? To do this, you need to study the main characteristics of each of them and decide what is important to you.

The installation rules for passage elements, skylights, roof safety elements are described in detail in the instructions attached to orders.

6. Triangular and trapezoidal slopes

When installing metal tiles on such types of slopes, additional counter-battens are installed along the ridges of the slopes.
Further steps are similar to the installation of standard roofs. Then a cornice board, a cornice strip, gutter hooks and a drip are mounted.
The metal tile sheet is cut along an oblique line so that the distance to the sheet of the next slope is 60-80 mm.
Installation of ridge slats is also carried out from the bottom up.

It is important to ensure that the axis of the ridge bar runs clearly along the axis of the ridge. The junction of two ridges and a ridge can be decorated with a plastic Y-shaped tee.

7. Care of metal tiles and quality assurance

In order for the roof to last as long as possible, we recommend:

Monthly inspection of the roof from the ground;
Annual inspection of each roof slope with a rise to the level of the eaves;
Carrying out maintenance work on the roof, if necessary;
The valleys should be cleaned of debris, for this you need to remove the decorative part;
When leaks occur, high humidity, condensate, uneven wall temperature in attic room- It is necessary to apply for a comprehensive repair of the roof.

8. Errors in the installation of metal tiles

And the last roofing It is better to entrust professional builders. Roof installation requires a lot of experience and honed skills. But then a properly laid roof will delight you for a dozen years.

home » sheathing » Do-it-yourself metal roofing device. Installation of metal tiles - the technology of roofing from metal tiles