Cutting a brick pipe on a roof with metal. How to perform the whole range of roofing work around the chimney correctly

Autonomous heating, whether it is a house with several floors or a small bath, requires competently installed pipe chimney. The safety and efficiency of the entire heating system depends on how correctly it is installed.

One of the most important components complex design The chimney box is the chimney box. It can be installed independently with the finished roof or provide for such an opportunity at the construction stage.

The chimney goes through several overlaps before the site, as it turns out to be brought out into the street. It crosses the ceiling, the attic and goes out through the hole in the roof.

On each segment of the path, the pipe experiences a temperature difference and comes into contact with combustible materials. key point pipe installation is its thermal and waterproofing. It is these functions that the chimney box is designed to provide.

The tasks that the construction of the duct for the chimney solves:

• Provide insulation against changes in external temperature.
• Provide insulation of the hot pipe from combustible materials of the ceiling, roof, rafters.
• Ensure tight sealing of the opening between the chimney body and the roof.
• Protect the area above the roof from the weather.
• Decorate the chimney, creating the visual integrity of the roof and chimney.

Note! In addition to a properly installed duct, the design of the chimney itself and the nature of the fuel affect the efficiency of stove draft and the durability of the chimney.

The installation of the chimney box is carried out at the final stage of the installation of the heating system. The outer casing can be made independently or purchased ready-made.

Varieties of boxes

The most common ducts for chimneys are made of metal. Use galvanized steel or stainless steel as the most durable material. Ready-made galvanized iron boxes can be purchased with plastic protective coating different colors, which expands the aesthetic solutions of the chimney.

The times when the stove in the bath was heated in a black way are long gone. Above each steam room is now proud - a chimney rises like a spire. But this component of the design, however, has something to be proud of - thanks to the pipe, the room warms up quickly, and the rest in it are protected from smoke, soot and suffocation. special attention requires a ceiling cut for the chimney, which is the fire insurance of the building and the custodian of your property. Let's talk about her.

Purpose and functions of the chimney

Before we begin to learn how to build a passage through the ceiling for the chimney, it does not hurt to get to know the main “hero” better, for whom, in fact, these works are being carried out. So, you already understood that the chimney is important and necessary. Why? How does it function? Thanks to this miracle pipe, already fresh air separated from gases.

And where do the harmful compounds that appear as a result of burning firewood go? They go through the pipe into the sky. Moreover, without any motors, levers, current or intervention of human hands, but in a simple way - under the influence of traction of natural origin. Here is such a magical device that seems extremely simple, but to achieve this natural simplicity, you will have to work hard. Ready?

Immutable rules

What are the requirements for the chimney and its passage through the ceiling of the bath?

So, remember the important list:

• the most suitable pipe length is 5 meters;
• the prefabricated structure should not contain protrusions (the main reference point is the vertical position);
• the optimal indicator of elevation above the roof level is up to 1.5 meters (otherwise extensions will be required);
• the distance between the pipe and the floors should be at least 13 cm with a passage cut and 30 cm without it;
• in the structures of the roof or ceiling, it is impossible to dock smoke elements;
• contact of the pipe with communications (water supply, ventilation, wiring, sewerage) is unacceptable.

It's important to know! To avoid unforeseen situations, inspect the chimney at least once a year. An excess of soot, accumulation at the seams and at the joints of soot can damage the structure.

Work plan

Now that you are familiar with the design and basic requirements for it, you can learn how to build a chimney passage through the ceiling. Master the step-by-step case of work:

1. Cutting and marking the surface.
2. Box installation.
3. Sheet setting.
4. Arrangement (insulation) of the opening.

This, as you understand, is a theory that needs to be put into practice, and this is what we will do.

Practical Lessons

And now about each action in detail.

Some pioneers in the construction of a bath are wondering: how to determine the place where the pipe passes? So that there is no subsequent frustration, remember: this place is determined at the stage of drafting the steam room.

When marking, it is important to determine the vertical axis of the pipe. The beginning of the layout is the outlet pipe coming from the furnace. The axis starting from this structural element, resting on the ceiling, is the center of the clearance that you have to make. If the steam room is with an attic, then the axis extends to the very roof.

And do not forget about the rule: the distance from the chimney to the ceiling is at least 13 cm.

Worth paying attention! Before installation, structural elements (pipes, adapters, bends, etc.) must be prepared. Remove the film, stickers, price tags (which many people forget to do) and degrease the surface of the parts.

What should be the dimensions of the ceiling cutting for the chimney? Many people think that these parameters depend on the materials from which the chimney is made. This is not so, the only important thing is that the structure does not touch the ceiling, but is not too far from it, since it will be difficult to close the gap, moreover, heat, which is so necessary in the steam room, can subsequently escape through it.

You probably already remember about the gap of 13 cm, now learn one more indicator - the thickness of the heat-insulating sandwich should not exceed 5 cm. Are you afraid that the insulation will slip out and fall down? Do not worry, an iron sheet that you attach from below will serve as insurance against such situations.

It's important to know! When buying iron sheets, keep in mind that galvanized material is not very suitable for a bath room, because heated zinc is a source of harmful substances formed after the decomposition of the substance.

Many people confuse the purpose of the insulation layer, thinking that it is done for beauty, so that it is cozy inside. Not only that, its main mission is to protect the steam room from fire and cold. Fiberglass, asbestos, mineral or basalt wool are ideal as materials.

However, it is not enough to insulate the hole, you need to additionally create a heat-reflecting screen around the chimney, which we have already mentioned in passing above. A piece of polished stainless steel will perfectly cope with the role of the screen, ideally with a mirror finish. Creating the greatest possible reflective effect for infrared waves is your goal when installing an iron surface.

To reduce the opening, a ceiling-passage assembly is constructed, providing a kind of air gap, which serves as additional insurance against heat leakage from the steam room.

Construction assembly details

You already know the wisdom of the process, let's assemble the device? So, cutting the bath consists of:

A galvanized box with parameters 40x40 cm is installed from the side of the attic. And from the inside of the bath, an iron sheet is attached to it, reaching 50x50 cm in size. The pipe at the lining is covered with a clamp in order to avoid stress on the stove. And only after that, a heater is placed in the hollow part of the body - usually the surface is covered with a heater and covered with expanded clay. Then you can mount the final fragment - part of the pipe going through the roof to the street.

Worth paying attention! In order for the chimney to serve for a long time, the joints of the clamps should be sealed, and parts of the structure subject to corrosion should be coated with heat-resistant paint.

Ceiling cutting for the chimney - troublesome, but necessary step bath construction works.

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - one of the most critical stages in the construction of the bath. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to the ignition of wooden structures near the chimneys, and these are the floors and ceilings in the baths.

The passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bath

Safety rules dictate the need to exclude unprotected contact between hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, it is necessary to build a special ceiling passage assembly in the form of a box using fire-retardant materials, and execute it in strict accordance with the standards.

You can make a passage through the ceiling with your own hands

Fire safety norms and rules

Any developer can get acquainted with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

Construction norms and rules of the Russian Federation SNiP 41-01-2003

We are interested in paragraph 6.6.22, which dictates an indent of 130 mm in the area of ​​​​the passage through the floors for a tree made with protection brick pipe. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have a lower heat transfer than modern metal pipes, which are most often used in baths. This means that when arranging the cutting of a single-walled metal pipe without thermal protection, one should be guided by other offset numbers, which are indicated in Appendix "K":

• 500 mm to wood without thermal protection;
• 380mm from heated pipe to flammable behind thermal insulation layer.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Errors in the arrangement of the ceiling-through node

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that must indicate possible meaning distances to floors from various materials. They should be guided by the independent construction of the passage bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing PPU?

Both brick, and ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that cause a risk of wood fire. For reliable isolation of combustible elements of the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a gasket from protective materials.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire at high temperatures in a high heat zone. But the primary lining of the ends of the ceiling, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with a flammability class G1 (low combustible).

Glass-magnesium sheet (SML)

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used to stuff the passage assembly, sinters when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

For stone wool, the fiber sintering temperature is over 1000ºС

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C.

An example of insulation of a ceiling cut with basalt wool

PPU box is stuffed with heat-insulating basalt fiber

It is also safe to lay minerite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. Exists and tested by time a budget option thermal protection - sand was used for it (they were covered with a passage box) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with flanging.

Comparison of materials for fire resistance

Features of using the "sandwich" chimney when passing through the ceiling of the bath

Modern metal sauna stoves are very often supplemented with steel pipes made of black or stainless steel. Wanting to reduce hard IR radiation and make the place of contact between the chimney and the ceiling above the stove safer, the owners of the baths use a "sandwich" - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Important! The connection of the chimney elements must under no circumstances be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to popular belief, the outer shell of a stainless steel sandwich is not much colder than the main chimney. This pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bath from fire - the sandwich provides best conditions for stable traction, this is its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passageway makes it possible to reduce the distances of the indents.

It is known that due to the burning out of volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it rises for some time as the height increases. If at the level of the exit from the furnace the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at the level of 1.5-2 m, measurements will already show 850°C. The outer casing under these conditions is heated up to 300 ° C, as evidenced by the tint colors on its surface.

Wishing to quickly heat the bath, overheating the furnace, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400 ° C, tests for certification are carried out precisely for these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. From overheating, the metal quickly burns out, and you need to understand that a sandwich can turn into a single wall at any time. The insulation with which the sandwich is clogged also does not serve as a panacea for a fire. If you assemble the chimney “for smoke”, and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during the furnace, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, it loses its useful properties over time.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not lightly reduce the recommended indents, relying on the protective casing of the sandwich.

Drawing of the ceiling-through node

Important: when using metal furnaces and chimneys made of stainless steel with a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from the smoke to the wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of the ceiling cutting device

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of the chimney through the ceiling of the bathhouse are protection against fire of the ceiling and a smooth vertical installation of the pipe. The work is carried out in three stages:

• determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;
• installation of a finished or self-made protective casing;
• thermal insulation finish.

This is general rules, and specific methods of work depend on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even on whether the technologies were observed during the construction of the bath.

We are preparing a place for the chimney passage through the ceiling

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markup, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel covered it completely.

A self-made passage, as a rule, from the side of the steam room is decorated with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

1. A vertically located chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line.
2. Using ready-made PPU designs, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer.
3. Passing the chimney through the ceiling on their own, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage box is made. Strictly above the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling cake, it is necessary to make a through hole, which in size allows you to maintain the required indents. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter is 120 mm, a sandwich with a 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer dimension is 230 mm. We find the allowable distance by adding two distances of indents with the inner diameter, to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2 * 380 + 120 = 880 mm.

Important! Well, if the exact location sauna stove and the chimney is thought out even during the drafting of the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate such an installation of the floor support beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of the pipe between them.

Chimney opening device

Otherwise, the first thing to start with is to change the design of the ceiling above the furnace. A part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and reinforced by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then cover the ceiling.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - a through pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are ease of installation and a deliberately aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when laying in the finished foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

Ceiling passage units are available for sale various configurations. The design is based on a box of rectangular or circular cross section, rigidly connected to a sheet that serves both to protect against heat from below and to decorative finishes. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe, the knot is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made passage structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with and without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined, having an inner metal box and an outer minerite box with an air fire-retardant layer between them.

Install the overlap passage node in this way.

1. The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulator, upholstering the tree around the perimeter with it.
2. The bottom sheet of the device and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a layer of non-combustible sheet material. Here are good: minerite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.
3. On the knee, which will be located in the passage node, they put on the finished structure and bring it to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the bottom of the steam room, the finished unit is fixed in the ceiling with self-tapping screws, usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.
4. The diameter of the orifice of the through pipe is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations, a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
5. From above, on the floor of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.
6. In the attic, the cutting unit is left without external decoration. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of the bath - step by step instructions with photos

• tin for the manufacture of cutting boxes;
• minerite;
• stainless steel sheet;
• sheet GKLO or basalt cardboard;
• The material for backfilling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay may also be suitable.

The passage of the pipe in this example is performed at the stage before the fine finishing of the ceiling. It does not matter, the sequence of operations does not change.

Proper cutting of the chimney

Cutting is a chimney element that is performed when the chimney passes through the ceiling or roof. Correct cutting the guarantee of the long-term functioning of the chimney itself, as well as heat and dryness inside the room. At the same time, even professionals can make mistakes when choosing and installing cutting. To control the services of a specialist or independently perform the design, you need to understand some of the nuances.

Cutting functions

The main function of the cut is to pass the pipeline through the fence. Fencing refers to the ceiling or directly to the roof. The passage must be sealed.

With a properly executed cutting, not a single drop of external precipitation enters the room, not to mention the interior space of the room.

Separately, there is fire safety. The fact is that the flue gases heat up the pipe to significant temperatures. Even after passing through all the heat exchangers, the flue gases have significant temperatures, which, if the pipe comes into contact with a flammable surface, can serve as a source of fire.

Therefore, the space between the cutting elements and the pipeline is filled with sealant. In most cases, this is mineral wool based on basalt. In addition, a metal apron is included in the internal cutting elements, which protects the surrounding surface from elevated temperatures.

When properly cut, not a single drop of precipitation enters the room

Basic rules and regulations

In fact, there are not so many standards in the cutting. To be honest, only one thing is correct, everything else is only recommendations received by a long construction experience. The rule dictated by SNiP says: when making a chimney made of concrete or brick, as well as any other insulated materials, the distance to the rafter and any other flammable surface must be at least 13 cm. In any other case: at least 25 cm.

Experienced roofers advise when making a passage through the roof on the inside surface roofing cake make a rectangular metal apron with indents from the end of the through hole of about 30 cm.

Types of passage nodes through the ceiling

Pass-through nodes are divided according to the shape, depending on the insulation used, as well as the main structural material.

According to the main material, there are:

• Steel units made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The most popular option, since metal assemblies combine ease of installation, strength and resistance to mechanical damage.
• Asbestos. Asbestos is cheap and reliable, but fragile. Any mechanical damage can spoil the purchase.
• Minerite. new material in the construction market. Very often, the manufacturer recommends this material for mounting aprons and protective surfaces, but many buyers remain dissatisfied with the quality of the products. Therefore, it is better to beware and purchase a familiar steel assembly.

Ceiling pass-through for round pipe

Depending on the insulation, structures with materials are distinguished:

• Expanded clay
• Vermiculite
• Basalt mineral wool with foil. It is used more often than others, as it is easier to use, more suitable for self-assembly and managed to establish itself in the market of building materials.

Any node always has a rectangular base, but the shape of the passage itself varies, therefore, two types of node are distinguished according to the shape of the passage:

• double cylinder
• With double rectangular box

The best choice would be a steel passage unit with insulation from mineral wool. The shape of the pass-through node is selected based on the shape of the pipeline and the personal preferences of the owner.

Roof cutting for round pipes

Factors affecting the cutting of the chimney

The shape of the chimney cutting is primarily influenced by the type of roof: flat or pitched. A flat roof does not accept the techniques inherent in a pitched roof. As a rule, the division into flat roof made of concrete, while materials for cutting pitched roof vary, but most often it is made of metal.

Of particular importance is the shape of the chimney, since the shape of the through hole depends on it. A round shape is better for the chimney itself, but when it comes to through holes, it is much easier to make a rectangular chimney. For a round section, you will have to make the correct slot in the roofing pie; for a rectangular chimney, this is much easier to do.

Also, the choice of installation technology is influenced by the presence of cladding and the shape of the roofing. The cladding makes cutting much more difficult. The fact is that the cladding can contribute to the penetration of moisture into the roofing pie, which is unacceptable. Therefore, it would be logical to make the cutting wider with the use of facing, but the cutting itself also needs to be hidden somehow. Therefore, the structures under the cladding remain the lot of professionals. You need to have too many specific skills to make everything discreet and really beautiful.

If we talk about the type of coating, then it is better to use corrugated board to perform cutting. Other types are associated with certain difficulties. Coverage has to be calculated. Since the apron is supposed to be filled under the element of the roof finish, and because of this, some types can stand on the roof at an angle or puff up, which makes the coating leaky.

Installation technology and output to the roof

Installation technologies for cutting round and rectangular pipes are different. The fact is that the very shape of the passage node is changing, which means that the technology for performing penetration is changing. The shape of the chimney is determined only by the wishes of the owner. The fact is that soot will not accumulate on a round pipe. In addition, the outer part of such a chimney has a more streamlined shape, which improves the aerodynamic protection of the pipe. But a rectangular pipeline is easier to hide. It is more advantageous from an aesthetic point of view, so it is sometimes used.

Ceiling pass-through installation

round pipes

For round pipes, it will not work to make the passage details on your own, so you will have to use purchased elements. Aluminum-based flanges enjoy well-deserved popularity in the market. A movable silicone or rubber corrugation is attached to the round base with the help of rivets, which is pulled over the pipe. From the inside and outside, the passage elements are interconnected, resulting in a reliable and strong connection.

For cases where it is not possible to pull the connection onto the pipe, there are split flanges that, thanks to special technology, can be wrapped around the pipe and pulled together with a minimum gap between the groove and the pipe.

Rectangular pipes

Rectangular pipes are popular for various design projects. In addition, the main parts of the cutting can be made independently from sheet metal. This is:

• Wall profile or inner apron
• Tie
• Outer apron

All these elements are corners with notches at the fold. The upper part of the apron is bent inward, so from the corner an element of the wall profile is obtained, which will overlap the adjacent element.

A tie is called triangular flat sheet metal, which protects part of the counter crate under the pipeline from soaking.

Scheme of cutting a rectangular pipe

Features of cutting brick pipes

There are only 2 features of brick pipes:

• The brick pipe rests on the foundation. This means that it is stable and does not require additional fastenings in the form of brackets. At the same time, the implementation of such fasteners with rigid tightening of the clamps can threaten the deformation of the pipe or roof, which can lead to a fire or collapse of the building.
• Brick is a porous material, so it needs a little more protection from cutting. Therefore, wall profiles are mounted in a special groove, which is performed in a brick pipe by strobe with a grinder.

cutting brick chimney

The procedure for cutting a brick chimney is as follows:

1. The chimney is strobing after the counter-lattice. The task of gating is to create a groove for the bottom rail of the wall profile.
2. The lower wall profile is mounted. Fasten it with bolts to the counter-lattice. A tie is attached to the bottom rail. A tie is a sheet of metal in the shape of a triangle with the end slightly bent up. The end of the sheet is bent so that water does not penetrate into the attic.
3. The wall profile is coated with sealant.
4. Side and top bars are mounted. After that, the wall profile is covered with a coating, which is pressed with aprons.
5. The upper apron is retracted under the flooring sheet or under the ridge if the pipe is located next to the ridge.

Cutting the chimney is quite an important process. Therefore, all fasteners must be made efficiently and reliably, otherwise the roof may leak in the chimney area. Compliance with the instructions and regulations will allow you to do everything right and durable. A properly installed chimney will last for decades.

Heating country house is a difficult and troublesome task.

One of the important steps that will enable the heating system to work with maximum efficiency is the correct installation of a chimney on the roof of the house.

Requirements for furnace chimneys

There are several standard parameters to which the chimney must comply:

• height;
• internal section;
• heat transfer;
• mechanical strength;
• heat resistance.

The main parameter that affects the traction force is the distance from the roof to the edge of the chimney.

Not always a chimney that comes out of the roof by 2 meters is good.

In a long pipe, the exhaust gases are hot and are rapidly cooled as they pass through the pipe.

And condensation appears on the inner walls of the chimney.

The pipe must have a section corresponding to the size of the firebox.

The larger the firebox, the stronger the fire burns in it.

Accordingly, the amount of smoke in it is greater.

In order for the smoke to freely go outside, a large cross-section chimney is required.

If its size is insufficient, then the smoke will begin to penetrate into the room.

Which is very dangerous!

If the pipe section is larger than required, then the traction force will decrease.

After all, the smoke, rising through such a chimney, will cool down before it comes out.

Exit through the roof

Experts agree that it is best to bring the chimney straight through the ridge.

In this case, the junction with the roofing pipe is the easiest to arrange.

Also, with this option, snow pockets do not form, which means that the likelihood of leaks will be minimized.

However, there is one, but a very big minus: where the chimney will pass, it is necessary to break the beam and install additional supports.

Either in design truss system the roof should not have a ridge bearing beam at all.

It should also be taken into account when installing a chimney: round sections are produced by a huge number of enterprises.

But there are no components with which it is possible to carry out the passage of round pipes through the roof.

They are simply not released.

It is for this reason that most chimneys have a square and rectangular section.

One more good place the location of the pipes on the roof is its placement on a slope near the ridge.

With this placement, the appearance of snow bags is also unlikely.

And from a technical point of view, it is much easier to arrange such an exit.

The most unfortunate place to install is the valleys.

That is, the inner corner, which is formed by the junction of two slopes.

It is almost impossible to achieve a high-quality abutment of the roof to the chimney in such a place.

And the flow of water will create an additional load on the pipe.

Rooftop technology

Several factors influence which type of roof cutting will be used specifically:

• the material from which the chimney is made;
• type of roof and roof covering;
• the angle of inclination of the roof slopes;
• chimney location.

Roof cutting is designed to protect the roof from overheating and leaks.

It is these requirements that determine the choice of material from which the cutting is made.

For metal pipes roof cutting is a metal cone, which is rigidly fixed at a certain angle on a metal apron.

If the roof of the house is from ordinary asbestos-cement slate then a lead apron is used.

Due to the fact that lead is a plastic material, it takes on the same shape as slate.

The cutting angle depends on the angle of the roof.

The chimney is inserted into the cone and sealed with a sealing cuff.

If the roofing material is metal and the pipe is round, then not only metal cutting can be used.

Now they often use a penetration made of polymer on a metal frame.

They are such penetrations of a sheet of aluminum and steel and a cap made of rubber or silicone.

A hole is cut in the cap right size, and the sheet is bent under the roofing.

Traditional brick or prefabricated ceramic sandwich chimneys are led to the roof using other devices.

The brick pipe has an expressive appearance and does not need additional finishing.

Their sealing is carried out using a metal apron, a heat-insulating box and an junction bar.

Tightness is achieved by the fact that the elements are glued with special films and sealants are used.

Roof cutting. Round chimneys

As mentioned above, penetrations with a polymer cap are used for cutting.

To protect wooden structures from overheating at the passageway, a heat-insulating box made of any non-combustible material is installed.

The space between the pipe and the walls of the box is filled with any non-combustible heat insulator.

Usually it is basalt or stone wool.

We bring to the roof and install the cutting

We purchase a pipe made of thin metal.

The dimensions of the nozzle are at least 25 cm from the pipe to any structure that can ignite.

A hole is cut in the ceiling along the diameter of the pipe to the entire depth of the "pie".

Then the tube is inserted.

The chimney is led out through the hole in the pipe.

Insulation is laid between the pipe and the walls of the box.

The passage from below and from above is closed with lids.

In the place where the chimney will pass through the roof, a rectangular hole is cut into which the lower cutting apron is installed.

The pipe is pulled together with clamps and fixed to the roof elements with the help of brackets.

The chimney is brought out to the required height.

At the joints, clamps are installed with which the pipe is attached.

Joints are put on sealant to achieve maximum stability.

After the chimney has been brought out and installed, it is necessary to fix the lower apron.

A roof cut is put on the pipe.

There are different cuts for each type of roof.

Roof square cutting

In order to cut square pipes made of brick, several special elements are used: ties, metal aprons, and wall profiles.

Sealing of joints is carried out using sealant and self-adhesive film.

A brick chimney is not built without a foundation, so its stability is much higher than that of a round metal chimney.

The cutting of such pipes is carried out after the crate and waterproofing are installed.

An abutment bar is applied to the walls of the chimney and a contour is drawn along the protruding edge.

Along this contour, using a surface grinder with diamond disc the groove is shattered.

The junction bar is applied to the lower edge of the pipe and the dimensions are marked on it.

Now, on both sides, cut the vertical part of the plank with metal scissors.

Then the bar should be attached to the chimney and hammer its edge into the groove.

The bar itself is attached to the crate with screws.

Do the same with the side and top bars.

All joints between the pipe and the bar are sealed.

The tie is installed so that the water that accidentally gets on it does not fall on the crate.

Now the roofing is laid and the bottom, top and side ties are put on top of the chimney.

If the skate is nearby, then the top tie is wound under the skate.

Repair

If the pipe has just begun to collapse (this happens with brick products), then it is enough to coat all the seams that have spilled out with mortar.

If the brick itself crumbles, then you will have to disassemble the chimney and fold it over again.

Well, if several outer bricks collapsed.

And under the roof everything is in order.

If something has happened to a metal pipe, then in many cases it is easier to replace it than to repair it.

Joint insulation

To isolate the joints, a special sealant is used.

And here there is one subtlety: if you don’t want to rush around the roof during the first rains and re-insulate everything, don’t save on sealant.

It's not that expensive either.

Buy a branded item of German or Finnish production - you will not regret it.

To ensure the safe operation of the chimney, reduce heat loss and humidity in the house, it is imperative to cut it on the roof. In case of improper organization of the chimney outlet on the roof, precipitation penetrates, as a result of which the load-bearing wooden structures of the roof rot and disintegrate. Improper installation of the chimneys themselves can lead to fire wooden elements in dry weather. Having carefully studied the installation rules on the roof, the chimney can be cut with my own hands.

Types of cuts for the chimney

The choice of cutting option for the chimney is mainly influenced by the following factors:
chimney pipe material
view roof coverings,
roof Shape Shape, tilt angles,
the location of the chimneys in relation to the ridge.

Important functions of cutting are the maximum protection of the roof from rainfall inside and the reduction of heat losses. Proper selection of materials for cutting contributes to the normal functioning of the roof.

metal

For metal chimneys of the sandwich type, the groove is made of a metal cone, which is rigidly attached to a metal apron at a given angle.

Slate

For a roof with a slate coating, the apron is made of a material such as lead, in order to repeat the wavy relief of the slate coating due to its plastic properties. The angles of inclination of the cutting for pipes and roofs must match. The sandwich pipe must be inserted into the transition cone and the gap formed must be carefully sealed with a sealant.

Wavy relief

When installing round pipes through a roof with a wavy metal relief, in addition to metal cutting, it is recommended to use penetrations made of polymeric materials on a metal frame. Such elements are made of steel or aluminum sheet with a hole that is larger than the diameter of the pipe and a cap made of rubber or silicone. (cm. ). A hole of the required diameter is cut out in the polymer cap, while the metal part of the frame is adjusted to the type of roof covering. As a result of installing such a cut, a sufficiently dense and safe exit of the chimney from the roof is obtained.

ceramic

To bring to the roof constructed sandwich type, which is very common in our time, or ordinary brick chimneys, it is necessary to use another method. To seal such chimneys, metal aprons, special adjacent strips and heat-insulating ones are used. Tightness is carried out by gluing parts with special films and the use of special sealing materials. Subject to a strict sequence of cutting work, it is possible to achieve a tight transition of the chimney through the roof.

cutting

To seal metal pipes made of stainless steel such as sandwich or ceramic round pipes, special penetrations for the roof with a steel or polymer cap are used. In order to protect wooden roof elements from heating in the area of ​​the chimney passage, a heat-insulating box made of non-flammable material should be used, while the resulting gap between the box body and the chimney should be sealed with non-combustible refractory material - basalt or stone fiber with a high melting point compared to the chimney material at operation.

Installation and output

• The first step is to buy or make a thin-walled metal pipe with your own hands. It must be dimensioned in such a way as to achieve a safe distance between the hot chimney and the wooden combustible roof element of more than 25 cm in all directions. The protective pipe is made in the form of a box with a lid, in which holes equal to the diameter of the pipe are made on both sides. The manufactured pipe must be protected with non-combustible insulation with basalt fiber. You can fix the heat insulator with a special metallized adhesive tape or heat-resistant sealant.
• After marking the floor area at the point where the pipe exits from the room to the attic or second floor, it is necessary to cut it out with a jigsaw square hole equal to the dimensions of the protective box made before this, taking into account the heat-insulating belt made of basalt fiber. After that, you can mount the pipe.
• When a sandwich type chimney exits through the holes in the branch pipe, it is necessary to treat the resulting gap with a heat-resistant sealant with an allowable temperature during operation of the chimney equal to 10000C. Fill the space between the chimney and the box body heat-insulating material basalt fibre.

• On both sides, from above, from below, the box is closed with lids with holes for the pipe and fixed with screws.
• Having marked the zone roofing at the point where the pipe exits the attic or the second floor onto the roof surface (roof), which is under a certain slope, it is necessary to cut a hole in the same way, but not a square shape, but a rectangular configuration due to the slope of this ceiling. Next, we mount the lower cutting apron in accordance with the slope of the roof; the sharper the slope, the longer the hole should be.
• Through the hole made with the box installed, stretch the chimney, while the apron can be lowered down for a while. her in without fail must be reinforced with clamps and fixed with brackets on load-bearing structures roofs.

Above the roof, the pipe must be raised to a certain height. At the same time, it is important to remember that the joints of straight smoke elements should not be located in the transition zone through any ceiling or roof ceilings. In the case of such a hit in the transition, it is necessary to trim the elements. In order to achieve maximum strength and fire safety, reinforcing clamps should be tightened at the junctions of straight pipe elements, which, in turn, must be finished with sealant.

After the pipe is finally fixed and located above the roof, it is necessary to fix the lower apron and put on it the selected cutting option.

clamp

Multi-shelf clamp - designed to fasten the elements of the chimney together, used to improve sealing at the joints. It is a mandatory element of the system.

The different shelf tells us that he has different sizes of shelves, so that a large shelf is placed on a smaller section of the pipe - dad, and a smaller shelf on mom. It is important not to confuse, otherwise the clamp will not perform its functions. You can check where the smaller and where the large shelf is with a pen or pencil, hold the pencil horizontally, hang a clamp on it, in which direction the clamp leans there and the smaller shelf. On a single-wall chimney, collected by condensate, it is mounted with a smaller shelf up, a larger one down. On sandwiches, on the contrary, the larger shelf is up, the smaller one is down.

The clamps are elastic and kink resistant, so you can easily install them on an already installed chimney.

Roof cutting

Roof cutting of the chimney - required condition its safe operation and guarantee of heat and dryness in the house. Mistakes in the removal of the chimney through the roof usually lead to leaks, rotting and destruction of the wooden structures of the roof, and improper fastening of the chimney itself can cause a fire.

The sandwich chimney is led out through the hole in the pipe of the roof cutting, the gaps are treated with a heat-resistant sealant with a working temperature of up to 1000 degrees.

It is important to know that the upper edge of the roof cutting apron must be led under the overlying sheet of slate or metal.

When using a flexible cut from silicone or rubber, a hole is cut in the cap 1/5 less than its diameter. The cap of the roof cutting is pulled onto the pipe and the flexible apron is shaped into a sheet. Fix on self-tapping screws, having previously smeared with sealant. For a more durable fastening, it is sometimes necessary to strengthen the roof sheathing - this is done at the stage of cutting a hole in it.

For soft roof, for example, bituminous tiles, two types of abutment are used - closed and open. Basically, the first option is used quite rarely, as it is difficult to install and not very practical to use, so we will talk about the second method. In this case, the chimneys are adjacent to the roof according to the same principle as the metal tile, i.e., with the help of a roof cutting apron and various sealants. Only now the roof cutting apron for the soft roof of the chimney is not made of metal material, but from the valley carpet, which is laid under the shingles.

The essence of laying a soft roof apron is that the tiles merge with it completely, and at the joints roofing materials There were no leaks to the carpet. And, besides this, water should not go down to the attic through the fireplace / stove pipe, therefore, it is necessary to make an overlap on the roof cutting from the carpet.

A variety of bituminous mastics are used for fixing, although not all of them are good - after a while the material exfoliates, and then water will penetrate through the cracks. Based on practice, it can be noted that the same K-36 glue does an excellent job with this task, which can last for a long time without fear of temperature changes, moisture and ultraviolet radiation.

To pass the chimney through any structure, you can use a ready-made ceiling-through device. The ceiling pass-through device is used both for passing through the ceiling and for passing through the walls. It is selected based on the outer diameter of the pipe. Before installation, this ceiling passage device must be prepared: all surfaces that will come into contact with the wood of the ceiling sheathing, and all internal surfaces of the passage box are laid out with thermal insulation, or already used turnkey solutions PPU with mineralite, in which the role of thermal insulation is taken over by the mineralite.

Usually, basalt wool serves as thermal insulation, but it must be special: to withstand high temperatures. When buying a material, make sure that it is designed for use at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C. These materials have a higher cost, but it is unreasonable to save on safety. Cheaper options include binders that sinter at high temperatures, due to which the thermal insulation loses all its properties, and this can lead to a fire. In addition, it is advisable to use a foil heat insulator - this will make the design even safer. It must be remembered that the distance from the chimney to the wall of combustible material must be at least 500mm, to the wall of non-combustible material 380mm.

Having insulated the passage device, prepare a place for its installation. On the ceiling, mark where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of a suitable size: slightly smaller than the size of the front panel of the pass-through device in such a way that it is convenient to attach it to the ceiling sheathing with self-tapping screws. Having cut a hole, cover its edges with the same heat insulator as the passage node, or any other with similar properties. To increase the level of fire safety, metal strips can be strengthened over the heat insulator. Insert the prepared passage device into the finished hole. It can be put on the pipe and installed with it. Having installed this structure in place, fix the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (the holes can be pre-drilled). For greater fire safety, fill the polyurethane foam with thermal insulation, about half.

Height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge

If the pipe exits the roof at a distance of less than half a meter from the ridge, then the minimum height of the chimney above its level should be 50 cm. In such a place, less snow collects in winter, which reduces the risk of leaks when it melts in the spring and during thaws. The calculation of the height of the chimney relative to the ridge is based on the requirements of SNiP41-01-2003 and SP (building regulations) 7.13130.2013, as well as on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating device.

If the roof has flat design, then the height of the chimney above the roof is at least 50 cm. pitched roofs if the chimney is located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge, its height must be at least 50 cm relative to the last or enclosing parapet. If the chimney is located within 1.5–3 meters from the ridge, then its height cannot be lower than it or the parapet. When the chimney is more than 3 meters from the ridge line, its minimum height is determined by drawing the line at an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizon.

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