Installation of a gutter system on the roof: components and stages of work, photo. Do-it-yourself installation of a gutter system - installation of roof drains

The drainage system is an important part of the architecture, and it must be thought out even in the project. Yes, and according to modern building codes and regulations, it is desirable to install gutters even before installing the final roofing. But in practice, this is not always the case. Also in ideal, the first thing before buying a gutter system, you must decide how exactly you will fasten the gutters: along the cornice, to the front board or to the first row of the crate. But unfortunately some modern manufacturers offer brackets that are designed for only one type of attachment - to the frontal board.

Then what to do in such a situation: the roof is already covered and the roofing is laid, if we are talking about metal sheets that are fixed “tightly” or there is no frontal board at all? Now we will reveal a couple of secrets to you!

When the installation of a drain is needed only for finishing work?

A drain is most often fixed exclusively to the frontal board, if the air flow to ventilate the internal insulation is carried out through special holes in the overhang filing - they are also called perforated soffits. This is the simplest and cheap way ventilation, although not the most professional, because this is not enough for a good air flow. Therefore, experienced roofers believe that it is more efficient to make air flow through the gap that forms under the crate.

In this case, you will need to place the front board low enough, and fix the brackets for the gutters only on the crate. True, such a system has drawbacks: under the weight of snow and ice, the board can simply break. Based on this, decide which method is right for you.

Also, fasteners exclusively to the frontal board are necessary if the drainage system is installed much later after the construction of the house. For example, you bought an unfinished building (a fairly common situation). And, if you don’t touch the expensive one and it’s not clear according to what specific principles the laid roofing material is, then you can only fix the brackets to the frontal board. In addition, when replacing the drainage system, it also cannot be done in any other way.

And the third point: if you used an anti-condensate waterproofing film, according to the rules, it must be brought to the cornice overhang, and this is also possible only when attaching the drain directly to the frontal board, but not to the crate:

7 Popular Mounting Methods

To secure the gutters and downpipes and you will need special hooks. According to building rules, you can install them in three main ways: in a common boardwalk, if we are talking about a soft roof, in rafter legs and into the wind board of the cornice overhang:

One of the most popular examples:

Method number 1. Fastening to the truss system: raise the cover

Sometimes home craftsmen even count on the fact that after the construction of the roof is completed, they will still be able to lift one or two sheets of roofing and fasten the hooks to the crate. But in fact, it’s not possible to tear off sheets of any coating just like that, because in this case you will have to get rid of one or two rows of self-tapping screws or nails. And in this place you can no longer do without patches, which will nullify the entire aesthetic effect.

But some tricky way in this regard, it is still used, and its essence is to put special boards under the coating, which allow it not to wrinkle the roofing material and unscrew the mount with pliers. And it does work!

Something similar is often done with slate. There, right into the waves of slate, they insert wooden bars, which were previously planed along the wave profile. Here, the mount for the drain is mounted directly through the slate itself - both the bar and the hook at the same time.

Method number 2. Fastening to the frontal board: we create a reliable support

Fastening hooks to the frontal board is the easiest way if the roof is already ready. Moreover, the frontal board itself is not at all difficult to decorate so that it looks like a separate element of the roof exterior:

For metal roofing, short hooks are needed, from the same material, and it is also better to mount them on metal:

But a light-weight plastic drain can withstand a wooden frontal board without any problems:

Method number 3. Mounting on "crutches": let's go for the trick

If there is no frontal board on the roof at all, then special metal or wooden “crutches” are installed in the wall, and the gutter is attached directly to them with studs or beams:

Method number 4. Brackets in supports

Or the hooks have to be screwed into what is, especially when it comes to small outbuildings:

a

Method number 5. Invisible brackets: grab the gutter from above

In addition, brackets are sold today that are invisible even after installation, because they hold the gutters from above, not from below. Brilliant solution, right?

Such brackets must be fastened in increments of 40 and 70 cm, otherwise, with a greater distance, the gutters can deform under the weight of ice or snow:

Those brackets that are attached to the crate or from above to the rafter leg must first be bent and shaped in order to then perfectly fit them to the angle of inclination of the slope.

Method number 6. Adjustable arms: for difficult conditions

You will be interested to know that adjustable brackets are on sale today. It is enough to tighten the screws to adjust them and adjust them depending on the angle of inclination of the ramp. This way you don't have to re-check the bending radius of each hook individually.

Look how these brackets are arranged! These are two main parts that can be shifted relative to each other depending on the required mounting height:

Method number 7. Fasten directly to the roofing

In the most difficult cases, sometimes you have to purchase brackets that are more expensive, but which allow you to install a drain even on a roof where a fragile corrugated coating has already been laid:

Of course, this method is only suitable for regions where it rains infrequently and not in large quantities.

So, to summarize: how reliable the mount will be depends on whether you mounted the gutters correctly. After all, the drain does not have such a task as solving the problem of snow - this should be done by snow retainers and special cable heating.

Technical subtleties of mounting technology

And now let's do short review the technology of fixing the drain on the finished roof.

How to calculate the required number of drainage elements?

• B is the horizontal distance from the overhang to the ridge;
• H is the height, and C is the length of the roof (all dimensions are in meters).

Here is how to properly install the gutter system on the frontal board:

• Step 1. On the board itself, which was previously installed, mark a horizontal line with a laser at the highest point of the gutter.
• Step 2. Then place a real line, taking into account the slope, which should be from 3 to 5 millimeters per linear meter of the gutter.
• Step 3. Now you need to number all the hooks, and the marking itself should be done taking into account the slope of the gutter. Next, with the help of a hook bender, we slightly change the radius of the hooks.
• Step 4 Install the two extreme hooks, and between them, along the very bottom of the gutter, you need to pull the rope. Install the rest of the mount.
• Step 5. Determine the location of the funnel at the end of the gutter according to their size.
• Step 6. Next, attach the gutter funnel to the board and circle the outline with a pencil. From the edge of the contour to the center, leave a 45 mm edging and cut a hole with a regular hacksaw? or special scissors for metal.
• Step 7. Now bend the resulting frames outward. Insert the grooves into each other. It is important that the front of the gutter is put on correctly so that its spout is inside the curl.

The whole assembly is quite simple, akin to a children's designer.

Gutters and funnels: positioned at the right distance

Now let's move on to the installation. gutter:

• Step 1. First of all, we mount the funnel and the gutters adjacent to it.
• Step 2. Fasten the edges of the gutter with self-tapping screws to the frontal board.
• Step 3. We fix the funnel and the gutters themselves until their profiles completely match.
• Step 4. We check the angle of inclination and the location of the brackets.
• Step 5. We install the profile of the gutters on them and dock them together. We close the free ends with a plug.
• Step 6. From the funnel we make a drain and pipes in the wall.
• Step 7. We mount the bracket for the pipe.
• Step 8. We mark the pipe installation path and fasten the already vertical drain elements.

Modern metal drains are interconnected on seals and clamps. Plastic drains are connected in three main ways: on latches with a clip, on rubber seals and by cold welding. The main thing with all this is to take into account the compensation of linear expansion.

Also think about such an element as a special grate for the gutter system. It is needed in order to clean the flowing water from plant debris, which is often washed off the roof - these are needle leaves and branches. After all, stagnant water in winter can turn literally overnight into ice and break the drain from the inside.

Fixing vertical gutters

To begin with, let's take a closer look at how and which wall to properly fix drains. So:

• In the case of a three-layer wall, the holders need to be attached only to the front layer. If its thickness is about 9 cm, then the anchor depth should be 6 cm, and if the thickness is 12 cm, then the anchor depth should be 8-9 cm.
• If we are talking about a two-layer wall, then after it is finished, a hole 6-9 centimeters deep should be drilled in it. It is important that the dowel must pass the second layer of thermal insulation. And only after that you can tighten the mount.
• With a single-layer wall, you need to do this: fix the holder in the wall with screws or a special expansion dowel, but to a depth of at least 6 centimeters.
• But if you fix gutters in a wooden frame wall, attach the holder with self-tapping screws to the wooden facade. You can fix all this with a long sharp rod.

It is more competent, of course, to install the vertical components of the drain even in the process of laying the walls, but after their completion such work is quite possible. It is important to know only a few rules:

• pipes must always be installed from the bottom up;
• drill small holes;
• a distance must be maintained between the drain pipe and the wall;
• fix at the bottom a special drain elbow with a cut corner so that water does not fall directly under the foundation.
• Or, replace the elbow with a regular pipe link and bring it to the storm sewer.
wall, you need to purchase a plastic dowel, then drill a hole in the wall to fit the dowel, insert it and tighten the screw that is already attached to the clamp.
• A drainage system is attached to wooden walls using a rod or a special plate with screws. Such a long and pointed rod simply needs to be hammered.
• But if the wall is too thin in the right places, then you will need a long rod, which will be additionally fixed with a plate with screws.

A little illustration will help you figure it out:

And the technology of vertical fastening is quite simple:

• Step 1. Connect the pipes with couplings.
• Step 2 Leave a gap when inserting the down tube.
• Step 3. Under the coupling, mount the bracket with the trunk.
• Step 4 Install the tees in the same way.
• Step 5. Glue the bottom bend to the pipe.

Look at this step by step illustration. In photo No. 11, a decorative nozzle is very clearly visible:

Another important point: the pipe, which is located closest to the corner of the cornice overhang, should be at a distance of 15 centimeters from the corner of the house. You can place it in the middle of the cornice overhang, or right around the corner, already on the end wall.

Thus, you can easily remove the downpipe from the facade, and your gutter system, which had to be installed on the finished roof, will look inconspicuous and harmonious!

One of the key stages of arrangement roofing system home is the drainage system. Without its organization, it is impossible to protect the facade of the building from rain and water flows during the snowmelt period.

How to properly install gutters and what to consider when installing the structure, we will consider in the article.

The question of how the drainage system will be equipped should be decided at the design stage of the building.

When making calculations, you need to be guided by the requirements of the current SNiPa 2.04.01-85. This approach will allow, taking into account all the nuances, to correctly select best option construction execution.

The key purpose of the drainage system is to collect and divert precipitation, thereby protecting the walls and foundation of the building from premature destruction.

The main points to be followed when designing a drainage system:

1. Having made a copy of the roof drawing, draw a plan for the location of the drainage elements.
2. Calculate the total area of ​​the roof and all its slopes separately, taking into account the adjacent vertical walls.
3. Based on the indications of the intensity of rains in a given area, determine the throughput of the system.
4. In accordance with the values ​​obtained, determine the diameter of the installed drainpipes, the number and cross section of drain funnels, as well as the frequency of their placement along the wall of the building.

The result should be a system that can collect and remove the maximum amount of liquid.

At the design stage, it is important to determine the location of the risers so that they do not disturb the exterior composition. Most often they are placed at the corners of the building, but it is quite possible to arrange it in a niche created by a bay window.

If the discharge of the pipe coming from the drains will be carried out on the blind area, it is better to remove the risers as much as possible from the entrances to the basement, basement ventilation vents and footpaths laid near the house.

Components of the drainage system

The system includes two groups of parts - horizontal and vertical drainage parts. Together they number about a dozen species. structural elements, each of which performs the task assigned to it.

The main thing when choosing the components of the drainage system is to select elements that, both in terms of design and appearance, harmoniously complement the overall picture.

The structural elements of the drainage system are:

• drainpipes - key functional elements of the system, designed to move masses of water from the roof;
• gutters– narrow channels for collecting and redirecting water;
• funnels- conical sockets in the upper part of the pipe are designed to collect, delay and drain water flowing down the gutters;
• knee- structures in the form of short bent pipe sections are installed in order to change the direction of the water flow;
• brackets- fasteners for fixing the gutter to the roof;
• seals- additional elements provide fastening strength at the joints;
• clamps- fasteners for fixing the structure to the facade of the building.

Calculation of the required number of elements

It is better to entrust this rather important event to specialists selling drainage systems, or to the masters of the company providing installation roofing services. In the absence of such an opportunity, the calculation can be performed on its own.

Since in private construction many people try to get away from typical options and roofs similar in design, the required number of system elements should be calculated individually.

The main points of competent calculation:

1. gutters. The total length of the channels must correspond to the length of all roof slopes used to collect water. Their docking is carried out using connectors.
2. Inlet funnels. They are installed at the outer corners of the building and additionally placed every 8-12 meters so that the overall slope of the channels is not too large.
3. Downspouts. The number of products corresponds to the number of funnels, and the length corresponds to the distance from the roof to the surface of the earth.
4. brackets. The number of brackets is determined on the basis that one element is required for each meter of the channel. Additional holders will be required for funnels in the center and wall and in the corner of the house.

The number of clamps directly depends on the height of the building. But in any case, each individual pipe section to be installed is fixed with at least one clamp. When installing a downpipe in a one-story building, three fasteners are often enough, located at the top, bottom and in the middle of the product.

When calculating, the condition is taken as a basis that for 1 sq.m of the roof in horizontal projection there should be 1.5 sq.cm of the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe drain and funnel. For example: the sectional area of ​​a pipe D 100 mm is 78.5 sq.cm. This is an average value.

Depending on whether it is necessary to install the system in regions with a high level of precipitation, or, on the contrary, in arid areas, amendments are made to the calculations.

Bracket mounting methods

Installing brackets according to the rules is still at the stage preceding the laying of the roof. If fixation is carried out after the coating has been laid, then ordinary short hooks are used as fasteners.

Image gallery

Short brackets are attached to the front board so that they create a slope towards the funnel. We calculate how much lower the hook at the funnel should be than the highest holder. We mark the position of the extreme brackets on the board

We fasten the two extreme holders: the highest and the lowest, located next to the funnel. We connect them with fishing line or lace

We check with the building level whether the slope is created by the hooks and whether its value meets the conditions specified by the manufacturer of the drainage system

Installation of equipment for gutters is carried out after the completion of facing work. There is nothing difficult in how to prepare and install a drain. Mounting PVC systems can be performed even by a novice master.

The assembly and installation of a drainage system includes a number of standard steps:

Image gallery

Ideally, the gutter system is installed before the roof is laid. But in the case of a piece coating, you can remove the bottom row of tiles and carry out work

Before mounting the brackets, we select the optimal position of the outer holders. They should provide a slope towards the drain funnel, the width of the gutter should protrude 1/3 beyond the edge of the cornice

According to the mark, we bend the legs of the two extreme brackets located at the highest and lowest points of the gutter

After installing the two extreme brackets, we connect them by pulling a fishing line or twine. This line is needed for accurate marking of ordinary holders

We check the building levels for the slope created by the holders

The edges of the gutter, located near the corner of the slopes, are closed with plugs to prevent water from flowing past the funnel

If the length of the slope to be equipped is more than 3 meters, then we build up the gutters using a connector that compensates for linear expansion

Some craftsmen cut metal gutters and pipes using a grinder. But this is far from The best decision, since the rotating disk heats the polymer coating during operation. And this can cause damage to the elements of the drain during operation.

The first step is to mount the brackets that are designed to support the catchment funnels, placing them at a distance of 5-10 cm from the elements

The installation of brackets begins with the installation of the extreme elements. Then the distance between the drainpipes is divided into equal intervals of 60-80 cm long for the installation of the remaining hooks.

To simplify your task by ensuring a uniform slope of the gutters in the direction of the water intake funnels, it is better to pull the cord when marking. The boundary values ​​​​of the slope are from 2 to 5 mm per linear meter. To improve the accuracy of the installation, it is better to mark several key lines by pulling the cord in two or three rows for this.

If you have to work with metal hook-brackets, before attaching, they must be bent in accordance with the angle of the roof

In the process of mounting the brackets, the slope is achieved by moving the short fasteners vertically or by bending the metal holders in the calculated place.

In order not to disturb the galvanization and not damage the polymer coating, a special device is used to bend the fasteners - a flat bender.

The brackets are fixed on the mounting plate at three points, using self-tapping galvanized screws for this, not forgetting to correct the deviation from the direction given by the cord along the way

The collection of the drainage system can be done in one of two ways:

1. Lay out all the elements on the ground in a horizontal position, and then insert the assembled structure into the brackets fixed around the perimeter of the building. This method is applicable for small houses and small finishing areas.
2. The traditional option involves the phased assembly of all elements of the system directly on the building.

Installation of the drain should be carried out in the order "from top to bottom": first, water inlets are installed, then drain risers are connected. It's dictated technological features drainage system.

With the traditional phased assembly of all elements drainage system installation of the structure is carried out strictly on the principle of "top down"

Before attaching the gutters to the parts of the roof, the funnels are first mounted, not forgetting to take into account possible thermal expansions. Then the gutters are installed, placing them 2 cm below the line, which conditionally acts as a continuation of the overhang. They are produced in lengths of 3-4 meters. Gutters that occupy the extreme positions in the line will most likely need to be cut.

When installing gutters, it is worth remembering that they must be at least a third covered by the overhang of the eaves. Ideally, the overlap should be half of its own diameter.

The gutter is placed in the holders in a slightly bent state, leading into the grooves of the hooks, first its far side, and then the near one, and fixing it by snapping

The drainage system of the house is a rather serious construction, which requires accurate calculation and competent installation, where special attention is paid to the fastening of elements. The drainage of water from the roof of the house itself consists of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The first consists of gutters (trays), which are installed along the edges of the roofing material. It is in them that water merges from the roof in the form of rain or melted snow. The second is vertical pipes connected to the trays using a funnel. Through them, water is drained either into the ground away from the foundation of the house, or into the storm sewer. Usually, the fastening of the drain begins before the roof is covered with roofing material.. But sometimes the installation is carried out after the roof is covered, for example, when the old drain has become unusable during long-term operation and it is replaced with a new one. In the two cases, the installation is done differently. And the difference is in the attachment.

Types of fasteners for gutters

As for the installation and fixing of the trays, brackets in the form of hooks are used for this. There are a huge number of different modifications, but they are all divided into two large groups: long and short. The first are designed to attach the drain to the roof, namely to the crate or rafter legs. The second to the frontal board. By the way, it is the latter that are used when the roof is already covered with roofing material.

Today, manufacturers of Eastern systems offer universal mounting brackets, the leg of which is two plates with a through groove. Both parts are interconnected by a bolt and a nut through a groove. That is, relative to this bolt, you can reduce or increase the length of the legs. When the required length is reached, the bolt is clamped, which leads to the fixation of the length.

Hooks with a long leg are also used for roofs already covered with roofing material. True, in this case they are attached not to the rafters or batten elements, but to the filing of the cornice overhang. This option does not fit into the recommendations for the construction of drainage systems. And the appearance of the cornice filing is clearly reduced in terms of presentability. But sometimes this is the only and rational way to fix gutters.

There are other fasteners for gutters of drainage systems, which are the same hook, only in their design there are other mounting elements. One of these is a bracket, the leg of which is rotated 90 ° relative to the hook. This model is usually used if the roofing material already lies on the rafter system, and it will have to be fixed to the rafter leg, or rather to its side end. Most often, this variety belongs to the "long" group. It is necessary to fasten the hook to the rafter with at least two self-tapping screws. The only requirement for this variety is that it can be used if the rafter legs have a sufficient cross section, for example, 150x50 or 120x50 mm.

Rules for fastening drainage elements

The simplest process of attaching a drainage system is associated with the installation of vertical pipes. For this, special clamps made of metal or plastic are used. Purely constructive fastener for pipes - a clamp with a stand or leg. The latter are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws on plastic dowels. At the installation site of the fastener, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill or a puncher, insert dowels into them, attach a clamp and fasten it with one or two self-tapping screws. The connection is reliable.

The choice of clamps depends on how the drain will pass through the house. More often pipes are carried out directly along the wall with a snug fit to its plane. For this, short clamps are used, which are attached to the wall through a rounded plane or through a short stand. If there are protrusions in the architecture of the building, then sometimes it is necessary to carry out installation at a short distance from the surface of the walls. To do this, fasteners on the legs are used.

Attention! Fixing the drain to the wall is the easiest step in assembling the entire system. But they carry it out last, that is, after assembling the horizontal tray part.

Attachment to front board

The frontal or wind board is installed at the ends of the rafter legs. It protects the space between these roof elements from wind, dust, birds and insects. Attaching the gutter to this board is the easiest way to mount them. The board is in plain sight, the approach to it is not limited by anything, so there should be no problems.

In this case, both long and short brackets can be used to fix drains. The former are used if the board is wide enough to fit the mounting legs of the hooks. More often used short models. A practical example is shown in the photo below:

As for the “short” modifications, manufacturers today offer several positions that differ from each other in the installation bar. In this regard, plastic models are represented by a wider list than metal ones. The latter are usually standard designs made from steel strip. But there are also special metal structures on the market, which are a hook with a small stand in which there are no mounting holes. That is, the bracket itself is not attached to the frontal board. A metal tire is attached to it, into which they are inserted. On this rail, the hooks can be moved along the eaves, setting them at the required distance from each other.

This option is convenient in that it is easier to install the tire itself at a certain angle than to do it with each element separately. After all, the drain is a gravity flow system. So, it should be installed with an angle of inclination equal to 2–7 °. At the same time, the joint of the bracket bus is quite strong and reliable, therefore, by installing it, you can guarantee the long-term operation of the gutter system at home.

The next type of brackets differs from others in the ability to change the angle of inclination of the hook itself. The latter is connected to the stand with a pin in the form of a bolt. That is, a swivel joint is used. The angle of inclination is changed by bolted thrust elements. If it is necessary to increase the inclination of the hook, then the bolts are screwed in, pressing on the delivery. And vice versa . When changing the inclination, the hinge bolt must be loosened, after setting the angle it is tightened. This modification is used when installed on an inclined frontal board, or if the gutter system is installed on a log cabin.

Fastening to roofing material

Brackets for attaching gutters to roofing material have appeared on the market relatively recently. They can only be used if the roof is covered with a strong and rigid roofing material. Mounting method - on clamps (clamps), with the help of which the hooks are fixed along the edge of the roof.

Today, manufacturers offer two varieties of this bracket model:

1. For clamps, it is necessary to drill holes in the roofing.
2. Without drilling holes, clamping is made additionally with a screw.

Let's take a closer look at the second option for fixing gutters:

The nuances of installing gutters when using this type of hook:

• the distance from the edge of the roofing material to the place of the jam is within 5 cm;
• if a modification is used without drilling the roof, then it is recommended to place rubber gaskets under the support planes of the clamp (both from the top side and from the bottom);
• if the installation is carried out to the wave material, then the installation can be carried out both to the lower waves and to the upper ones, taking into account the exact location of the clamp relative to the height of the wave;
• it is better to give preference to plastic brackets, as they are lighter, since the load from the entire drainage system on the roofing material, together with the discharged water, will be impressive, which can lead to a break in the latter.

Combined variant

These types of fasteners for gutters are a structure consisting of two parts: a short plastic hook and a long L-shaped holder, the short part of which is rotated by 90 ° relative to the long one. Holes are drilled in the short part or a groove is made through which the hook and holder are fastened together. Holes are also made in the long part of the holder for fastening the structure to the rafter leg.

How to do this correctly is shown in the example of attaching a drain to a roof overhang:

This option is sometimes the only one. For example, if the roof covering extends beyond the rafter legs to a distance of 15–20 cm. Of course, you can use a clamp modification, but the roofing material does not always allow this.

Universal option

This design is a pull-up element, which is located inside the gutter. Trays in this regard are attached to it with the help of bends located on the bracket itself. One fold clings to the outer edge of the tray, the other to the inner. The fastener has a bushing with an internal thread. A screw is inserted into it, with which both products are attached to each other and to the wall.

This model is rarely used. But, as a fastener for trays, it belongs to the category of universal, because with its help installation can be carried out both on the frontal board, and on the wall, and on the rafter legs.

Other ways to install brackets

There are other ways to fix the gutters of the drainage system with your own hands. Because it is not always possible to install them along the rafters, crate or frontal board.

The last installation option is simple and has several options. If the gutters are installed on a wooden house, then the metal pins (with one sharp end) are simply driven into the wood. If the house is brick or concrete, then first holes are drilled in the wall with a perforator to the required depth, where the cement-sand mixture is placed, and only then the pin is hammered. Installation of gutters can only be carried out after the fastening solution has completely dried..

Video tutorials on fixing gutters

The nuances of fastening elements of the drain

1. The slope angle of the gutters is 3–7°.
2. The distance between the fasteners of the gutters is 50–60 cm.
3. The distance between the clamps of the drain pipes is 1.8-2.0 m. If the installation height exceeds 10 m, then the mounting step of the clamps is reduced to 1.5 m.

Conclusion

Before you fix the gutters with your own hands, you need to accurately carry out all the installation measurements and decide on the types of brackets. Choosing one or another installation option, you solve the issue of not only saving money, but also the strength of the entire structure.

A system for collecting rainwater from roof slopes and draining it into storm sewers, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating a crate for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve the fastening of drainage systems after roofing works. In addition, there are other situations, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is facilitated by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, providing different cases, at which it is necessary to mount general design are made in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems according to the material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, by the way, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" drains quickly became very popular with customers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, it is worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be immediately noted that each from materials from which drains are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

• Plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit snugly against the windboard and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration, like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant drawback.

• with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well, outwardly they look very elegant, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with polymer protective coating not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching effects. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Great care is needed when assembling and working with fasteners.

• Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly voe bad deed.

Dignity metal systems we can say that some of their parts can be much easier to fit to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can casually recall the less popular materials from which drains are made for buildings with a certain design decision- it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. Reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, supporting brackets of various designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with basic parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit in shape and size to the gutter.

Learn how to produce by reading the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after the roof is covered?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the points when circumstances may force us to engage in the installation of a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

• This process itself, in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated details of the spotlights installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more efficient, and therefore they plan to fix the gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
• Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished, and the former owner did not provide for their installation in advance.
• Highly common reason when old system the drainage system is completely outdated and exhausted - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and do not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

• If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the cornice overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along cornice overhangs

Gutter bracket types

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. Choice desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

• Long hooks are most often used for fastening under the roof covering before its decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid crate.
• Short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the front board or on the wall of the building. This type of hook is mounted as before laying the roofing on truss system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
• The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Ways to fix gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets on the elements of the truss system:

• On the rafter legs, both on the end, and on their upper or side sides.
• On the wind (frontal) board.
• Under the roof, on the bottom board of the crate or on plywood (OSB) of a solid crate.
• At the edge of the roofing.

The first way - to the rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the batten. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

If the roofing has already been installed, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the bottom row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be dismantled carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without violating integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In the situation when it is equipped on the roof, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood coating. next step shingles or the roofing material returns to its original position and is fixed to the surface using bituminous mastic.

Video: Installation of a gutter system with edge dismantling of tiled roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in fixing the hooks on the side of their timber. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent mounting platform turned into a horizontal plane - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs are large enough in cross section, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water may overflow during heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to try on, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second way is to mount the brackets on the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs may be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

For mounting a drainage system on a frontal board, the following are suitable:

• Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has large enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg of the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

• Short brackets are designed to mount them on the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as on the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be doubtful due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will hold the gutters firmly.

In addition to the usual brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function is indispensable, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Prices for brackets

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on the side of the profile and move along the guide, with the arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this mounting system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in terms of level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is beaten off on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters per linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation site for the first bracket.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (the systems of some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area of ​​​​installation of the drain funnel, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such markings, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third way is to fasten the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing

This method is applicable to install a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Hook-holders are fastened with the help of special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

Exist different types clamps, to secure some of them, it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, stepping back from its edge at least 50 mm. Others have a design that does not require drilling of the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave cover, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. Under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, it is recommended to place rubber pads on both the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be remade independently by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to fasten the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with the previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets on the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

• So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on one that has already covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
• Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is of the right width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, by analogy with the picture shown above.
• If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the appropriate diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If it is planned to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the downpipe funnel is provided.

• A pull-up suspension mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes such a design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which hooks the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a sleeve with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastener is screwed into the wall or frontal board.

This type of fasteners can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fasteners are chosen, then the gutter must be closed from above with a protective net, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water from roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Gutter parameters and slope angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store to pick it up, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the section of pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if it is not enough to purchase a pipe large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. In this regard, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the slope cornice has a size of up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a drain vertical pipe. With longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to mount two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated on the diagram above by the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of ​​​​one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which a downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two guttershaving a slope towards the corners of the building, where the drains are installed.

gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm per linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what dimensions of the gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, given the calculated catchment area.

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can also use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

The location of the drain pipe	Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
	Gutter -75 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, downpipe 110 mm
	Catchment area, m²
	95	148	240	205	165	370
	48	74	120	100	82	180
	42	50	95	80	65	145

gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having dealt with the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and with how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays an important role in the design:

• A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be needed in two-pipe drainage systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
• The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
• A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its ends on both sides.
• Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain chute on one or both sides, depending on the selected installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to a vertical downpipe.
• Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then the elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has large enough width, due to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters, then the elbows may not be used at all.
• Brackets for fixing the drainpipe on the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
• Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the holders of the gutter and downpipe will be attached.

• Brackets-holders for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the eaves and choose the optimal installation step.
• Brackets-clamps for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a step of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
• The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. They can be installed on each slope two or one.
• Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

• For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools needed for the job

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required for the installation of the drain. It must be correctly understood that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

• Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will turn out to be not very neat and will have to be cleaned.
• Shears for cutting sheet metal.
• Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
• Hammer drill for drilling holes in brick or concrete wall for the installation of clamp brackets for the downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
• Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
• A rubber mallet (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
• Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, a long cord - for marking operations.
• Reliable stepladder or scaffolding- for the convenience of work and ensuring its safety.

Prices for a hacksaw for metal

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you need to immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems with a hacksaw or scissors for metal, and in no case with a “grinder” (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When performing a cut with a grinder, metal or plastic gets very hot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of ​​the metal and the melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymeric protective layer applied to metal pipe or gutter, can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the details drains only with those tools that above.

We believe that everything necessary for the installation of a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So if roofing cake already installed, most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix the short holders on the windboard. And, it should be noted that many roofers find the short version of hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

• Short holders do not have to be bent, as they are already ready for installation.
• If it is necessary to repair the drain, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since it does not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, the work can be done independently, without calling the masters.
• The cost of short holders is somewhat lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a scheme for arranging a drain. In this case, a system with one funnel and a downpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Marking begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the windboard. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the frontal board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the downpipe is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To simplify the task, you can take a tinted paint cord. The cord tied to the nail is stretched along the length of the windboard to a mark made on its opposite side.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the eaves, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is beaten off. Markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The rest of the steps are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The mounting step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme marking points, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as a stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point for fixing the hooks.
	Next, intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord with the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the windboard, the cord must be removed and the correct installation of the hooks must be checked again. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the drain without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the coating will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn scheme, is to mark the holes on the gutter for installing a funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, two cuts are made with a hacksaw at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this way they will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooked onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "lugs" that need to be bent into the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, the most reliable fastening of two parts - a gutter and a funnel will be obtained. Here it is also necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is higher.
	The next step is cutting seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, easy to bend and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals may come with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately from the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in this case the second side of this gutter will join with another segment that goes around the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be put on the metal edge quite hard. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into place.
	Instead of a rubber seal, roofing sealant can be used, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the plug. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined with inside gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install a sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, they also apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil appearance drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters in the brackets fixed on the windboard. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, it must be gently pressed so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. Exist different variants drains in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place almost the same.
	At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in the brackets, a latch is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on its edge from above. From the outer edge of the gutter, it snaps into place with a special clip. To increase reliability, from the inside the joint of the gutters is covered with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer, and then smoothed out with a finger, as it should not create obstacles for the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if it is provided for by the project. The first of these is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the latch on the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of home tools, it will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter with a metal strip, which is fastened with a self-tapping screw with a wide hat or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the windboard. In the second case, the strip will have to be slightly bent. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow loads and spring ice. In addition to such stretch marks, hooks are additionally screwed between the brackets to hold the gutters on the windboard, hooked only on the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the brackets-holders, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow in the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The knee is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second knee, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe, is measured. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe, which will connect the two knees. To the obtained value, you need to add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee mounted on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on its second side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid the flow of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above should go inside the bottom.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm from the resulting size will go to the docking of a flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point to consider is that the standard length of the pipe, just like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the clamp brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed in increments of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are fixed on it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly by bending, which can be done with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. Plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ ​​300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drainage pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm water inlet.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowing the nuances of the calculation and information about which fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent suitable for the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the master in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

For an experienced roofer, installing a modern gutter system is not special work, but an inexperienced person may not be aware of some of the nuances that lead to serious problems in the future. Of which the most common are deformation, bending of the gutter, leakage and destruction of the facade from constant moisture.

Moreover, only one small installation error can serve as the cause of all this. And therefore, how to fix the gutter so that it has served faithfully for more than one year, we will tell you now in the most detailed details.

How to choose the right mount?

In total, to fix the drain, you will need the following fasteners:

• brackets on which you will attach the gutters. It will not be difficult for you to choose a suitable mount, based on the shape and dimensions of the purchased gutters.
• Clamps- special devices that allow you to attach drain pipes to the wall. This mount is also selected depending on the type and size drain pipes. Also decide on the material for making the clamps: if it is plastic, then it has two attachment points, while metal ones have one, long hardware.

On sale you will find hooks of two types:

• Long ones are attached to the crate, to the rafter legs.
• Short ones - to the frontal board, according to the original plan or due to the fact that the roof has already been installed.

The distance between the hooks should ideally be about 50 cm, maximum - 60 cm. If you use long hook holders, it is better to screw them through the crate directly to the rafters, then the drainage system itself will be more durable.

At the end of the installation, both long and short hooks from above must be covered with a cornice strip.

Of course, according to all instructions, long hooks must be fastened under the roofing directly to the crate. But often there are situations that it’s not easy to remove the old roofing just like that, just like lifting it up.

For example, it is old, so such hooks are often screwed even onto the cornice filing. Despite all the illogicality of this method, in practice it often turns out to be rational and sometimes the only possible one.

Basically, according to the rules, metal hooks are used for a metal drain, and plastic - for plastic. Today, copper hooks are rarely but still used:

How to properly position the brackets?

At this stage, you will have a completely expected question: how are the gutters attached to the roof itself? Hooks for them are mounted to the frontal board, windshield, to the cornice overhang or directly to the rafter legs.

The mount is installed on the rafter legs when there is no frontal board as such, in principle, or it is important to leave it untouched for the sake of a certain aesthetic effect. But, if the roof is already ready, then the only rational option is to attach the fasteners to the frontal board:

Sometimes fasteners for the drainage system have to be installed directly to the roof sheathing. For this purpose, special elongated clamps are used, which are fixed at two points. Brackets are attached to the rafters (through the crate) only pre-bent.

Often, home craftsmen try to save money and put the brackets too far apart, although the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 60 meters. If this rule is violated, over time, the gutters are deformed and gradually damaged under the pressure of the weight of water, ice and snow.

It is also important to be careful with the location of the brackets so that they are not too low or too high relative to the edge of the roof. If the hooks are located lower than necessary, rainwater from them will not get into the gutter, it will splash and drip on the facade.

Sometimes such an installation error even leads to breakage and breakage of the fastener itself. And rightly so, if the gutter protrudes slightly beyond the edge, at least half of its width. If the gutter is installed too high, then the mechanical pressure on it and its fastenings will be many times greater than the norm, and the gutter system itself will have to withstand a load of falling snow.

At the end of the installation of the fastener, it is important to correctly install and align each hook:

Also keep in mind that when installing metal tiles, an anti-condensation film with an allowance is also used:

How to fix the gutter yourself?

When installing any gutter system, it is extremely important to take into account the thermal movement of the gutter and its structural elements, which, depending on the material of manufacture, work differently in tension and contraction.

According to the rules, the only movable element of this kind should be a hinged complaint, which is mounted without additional gluing - only on a latch. Moreover, modern manufacturers take care of this by making a special, so-called expansion mark inside the gutter, which helps to assemble in accordance with the air temperature that exists at the time of installation.

Here's how to properly mount the gutter directly on the eaves:

How to fix modern plastic gutters?

All you need for installation plastic drain such tools: cord, hacksaw or grinder, screwdriver or screwdriver, puncher, pencil, tape measure, ladder, hook bender or vise.

Let's look at an example of how to properly install a plastic gutter system. In total, it will be enough for you to spend about a day for this lesson. The main thing is to correctly calculate the slope of the gutter towards the funnel, so that the water flows easily and the melted ice quickly falls down. According to building codes, it is desirable to make 1 cm of slope for each linear meter. Then follow these instructions:

• Step 1. So, we mark the hooks: lay them on a flat surface close to each other.
• Step 2. Now on the hook where the gutter will be mounted, make notches as many centimeters as necessary to create a slope, and mark this place with a pencil.
• Step 3 Attach a ruler and draw a line from the first mark to the last. The line will not turn out to be horizontal, as you understand, and it is along this line that you will mount the brackets.
• Step 4. Next, if you have metal hooks, then you will need a special hook bender, if not, then a small vise. They should be clamped along the line and bent towards you.

At this stage, we install all the hooks, while checking the bend angle. Please note that the angle of bend for all hooks should be the same, and only the place of bend along the line is different.

So, step by step:

• Step 1. Take the hook with the smallest bend and screw it to the eaves. You should get the highest side of the complaint attachment and the lowest.
• Step 2. Make sure that the edge of the roof is exactly in the middle of the hook. This is important so that the snow moving down in winter does not damage the gutter and rainwater falls exactly into the funnel.
• Step 3. Now pull the lacing or strong thread between the first and last hook, and attach all the remaining hooks clearly along this line. The distance between the hooks should be between 50 cm and 65 cm.
• Step 4. Now we take the gutters and mount them. Please note that modern drainage systems have special strips along the edges of the complaints that simply snap into place, and a well-thought-out rubber gasket protects them from leaks. It is usually black and hard to miss.
• Step 5. Now install the gutter cap. It should be placed first on the inside of the hook and pressed on its outside.

It is important that the mounted gutter is perpendicular to the ground:

We continue with the installation of the drain:

• Step 1. In the next step, measure the distance from the funnel to the gutter connector, and at the same time keep in mind that during the installation process it will go into the funnel and connector up to 7 centimeters.
• Step 2 Install the funnel so that it is 20-30 cm from the edge of the roof.
• STEP 3. Cut off another piece of complaint. It is most convenient to cut a plastic gutter with a regular hacksaw with a fine tooth, or with a grinder with a thin circle for metal.
• Step 4. Now we pick up a funnel. Please note that it has special sides - these are the limiters to which you need to insert the gutter.
• Step 5. We mount the funnel and gutters.
• Step 6. Now we move on to installing the knees. The knees must be installed on the drain hole of the funnel and turned towards the wall.
• Step 7. After that, we take the second knee, and measure the distance between them. The second knee must be secured with a clamp.
• Step 8. The next step is to measure the distance to the knee of the drain. It will be convenient to fix the clamp to the wall using self-tapping screws with press washer in 30 mm or dowels, if you have brick house.

The following step-by-step photo illustration will help you consider the process in more detail:

How to fix metal gutters?

Modern metal gutters do not always have mechanical latches, and therefore their parts must be joined by cold welding or using special glue:

Let's look at the technology of fastening a metal drain in more detail. So, all the parts necessary to assemble such a system are manufactured with high precision even at the factory, thanks to which you can assemble the elements into a single system yourself and without particularly straining:

• Step 1. The first step is to take the exact dimensions and make a mounting scheme for the future drain to accurately calculate the number of pipes with fasteners, gutters and brackets, gutter plugs, funnels and their connectors. And get it all from a quality manufacturer.
• Step 2. To set the correct slope of the gutter (5.0-10.0 mm is enough), fix the first and last brackets, and then stretch the cord between them.
  Step 3. Now let's move on to the installation itself. First, we install gutters with the obligatory maintenance of the desired slope along the roof slope. Install the fixing brackets along the perimeter of the roof at a distance of 0.50 m.
• Step 4. Several parts of a metal gutter in one length will be easier for you to connect on the ground using rivets and special sealant. Those ends of the gutters that will not drain water, close them hermetically with plugs.
• Step 5. Next, install the downspouts, which should be fixed in the required places on the walls. Connect the sections of pipes together with clamps.
• Step 6. Check the verticality of the pipes with a plumb line.
  metal roof drains.
• Step 7 Now connect the gutters to the pipes and funnels.
• Step 8. And finally, install the lower drain elbows in the desired direction.

Fashionable copper gutters are fixed according to the same principle as ordinary steel ones:

But the hardest part is installing the drain. complex shape:

Be sure to check the installed drain for reliability and leaks by simply pouring water into it from a garden hose:

How to install a heating cable in the drain?

In order to protect the newly installed drain from breaking with ice with the very first cold weather, a cable heating system is being installed today. It is an electrical cable that is pulled around the entire perimeter of the roof. He works in temperature regime from 0 to minus 15 degrees, and even with ice and water on the roof.

Such cables are equipped with a temperature main official sensor. They are installed along the edges of the roof on the south side, and such sensors regulate the on-off of the cable system.

So, any gutter is always subjected to constant loads during its service. Especially if it rains, snows and there are strong winds quite often in your area. In addition, ultraviolet radiation and wind-blown debris have a devastating effect on the drain. And therefore, even a well-installed gutter system always needs to be looked after!

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