The do-it-yourself roof is hipped. How to make a hipped roof with your own hands Construction of a hipped roof step by step instructions

The labor intensity of work during the construction of four pitched roof slightly higher than a regular gable roof, but this does not mean that a four-slope roof is built with your own hands as simply as a regular one, with two symmetrical slopes. The main difficulty is that a pitched roof requires very precise engineering and knowledge of technology, especially if you do not have good practice in building this kind of roof.

Why is a house with a four-pitched roof better than a two-pitched version

Why is an ordinary gable roof arranged mainly on simple outbuildings, and for residential premises choose a hipped roof:

• The appearance of the four-pitched roof option looks much prettier and sleeker than the double structure;
• Even a simple hipped roof resists the elements much better due to smoother contours and aerodynamics. Even in the strongest wind, the frame rafters remain almost evenly loaded, due to the correct balancing of the diagonal rafters;
• Two additional slopes better shed water, dry under the action of the wind and thereby protect the roof of the house from leaking, as is the case with straight gables. Thus, for a hipped roof, significantly higher thermal insulation and frost resistance are achieved.

Important! The roof structure in four slopes, in contrast to the "kopeck piece", has a high degree of adaptation.

For climate with large quantity rainfall, the Danish version with steep main slopes and two hips is perfect; for the steppe zone with strong winds, a low tent frame with large overhangs and an average angle of inclination.

The most convenient will be the use of a hipped roof in houses where the attic space is not allocated as a residential area, but is used for household purposes. Due to the appearance of two additional slopes, the space and usable area of ​​​​the attic is reduced by about 25%. But if desired and of sufficient size attic space instead of an attic, you can equip small room, even with windows and a balcony, as in the photo.

But in this case, instead of a simple system of vertical posts on which the ridge run rests, in the construction of a hipped roof, you will need to install additional horizontal beams - crossbars, which will play the role of a ceiling for the attic room.

How to make a pitched roof

First of all, it is worth figuring out how a 4-pitched roof differs in detail from a double-pitched option.

Main difference truss system 4 slopes from a double symmetrical roof

Differences in design will be most evident in the diagram with a simple rectangular version of the hipped roof shown in the photo:

Important! Most of the elements of the additional slopes require a very careful fit, so often the diagonal rafters and rafters are assembled with a preliminary “tack” on self-tapping screws, and only after the final adjustment they are replaced with a bolted connection or knocked down with nails.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof, sequence of work

The most difficult part in the construction of the truss roof system is the stage of hanging the diagonal rafters. Firstly, the angle of inclination of the diagonal rafters and the pressure with which they rest on the ridge run must be equal to the parameters of the pair of slant beams on the other side. The areas of the slopes and the angles of inclination in the hipped roof must be absolutely equal.

Secondly, an imaginary line drawn between the junction points or the vertices of the triangles formed by the diagonal rafters on both sides must pass exactly along the axis of the ridge run beam, both horizontally and vertically. Correctly aligning and adjusting the position of the diagonal rafters is the main difficulty in assembling a pitched roof.

At the stage of preparing the assembly of a hipped roof, a board or Mauerlat beam is laid, while it is important to carefully align the plane of the board with the horizon. A preliminary marking of places for the installation of side rafters, trussed supports and puffs is applied to the Mauerlat. The installation of a hipped roof is greatly simplified if a reinforced concrete slab is used as a ceiling.

After laying out and fastening the puffs, a ridge frame or “bench” is assembled. In fact, this is a ridge beam mounted on vertical racks. Longitudinal and transverse struts are sewn to the racks, which ensure the stability of the frame until the rafters of the hip slopes are assembled.

Before laying out the diagonal rafters, the ridge frame must be supported with a pair of temporary beams, which are attached to the Mauerlat and to the extreme rack of the "bench". This will prevent the ridge frame from tipping over under the pressure of the diagonal rafters on the other side.

Next is the hardest part. First, the real length of each of the sloping beams is determined, for this, a nail is hammered at the fulcrum at the end of the ridge beam and the length from the nail to the fulcrum on the Mauerlat is measured with a cord. Before installing the diagonals, each of the rafters is measured and cut along its length of the cord.

Having installed the braided elements on the Mauerlat, they determine the line of contact and washed down the contact surface. Having cut the plane of the support of the sloping beams, they are laid on the end of the ridge run.

The lower ends of the diagonal beams are installed in the corner joint of the Mauerlat beam with undercutting of the supporting surface of the beam according to the above scheme. Sometimes the shape of the undercut is made according to the template, but it is more reliable to mark the line washed down manually.

Ideally, an imaginary vertical plane drawn through any sloping rafter should be parallel to the plane of the sloping beam located on the opposite side of the pitched roof.

If everything is done correctly, the two diagonal rafters of the hipped roof will be exactly in the axis of the ridge beam. To avoid deflection, sufficiently long windrows, it is necessary to install struts and trussed supports with the installation of temporary fasteners from self-tapping screws. Similarly, rafters are installed from the opposite slope and the elements are aligned with maximum accuracy. To increase the rigidity of the hip slopes, several sprigs are cut out and installed at the edges of the diagonal beams.

After they proceed to the laying of ordinary truss beams. Mounting on the Mauerlat is carried out with a standard bolt-nut connection or using steel corners. In the upper part, the rafter board is usually cut down according to the pattern and laid on the ridge beam.

Usually, after hanging the rows on the ridge run and the Mauerlat, additional crossbars are installed in the upper part, which reduce the bursting effect of the hipped roof frame. After installing all the rafters and aligning the main power elements of the four-slope frame, they proceed to the capital fastening of all rafters on the Mauerlat and ridge run.

At the next stage, struts are installed and fastened under ordinary rafters, triangular slopes are “driven” with outdoor beams. Each of the sprigs is cut to its length according to the scheme below and installed in a checkerboard pattern, this avoids weakening the beam due to the coincidence of the cuts on opposite sides.

All elements are fastened with nails, self-tapping screws and bolted connections with overhead steel plates and corners.

Final operations

After assembling the main frame of the hipped roof, fillies are stuffed into the ends of the rafters - short boards that form a row of roof overhangs along the wall. At the ends of the filly, the cut line is measured, cut so that the ends are in the same plane, and the cornice board is sewn on. The lower part of the filly is lined with a clapboard or an ordinary board.

After processing the wood of the beams with an antiseptic composition, they proceed to stuffing the boards of the crate. The thickness of the boards, the amount of material and the nailing points are chosen based on what kind of roof they plan to lay on a given hipped roof.

Conclusion

The four-pitched roof is deservedly considered one of the most convenient and practical roof structures. If you are going to build a four-slope version with your own hands, in addition to the correct calculation of the structure, you will need experience in leveling and adjusting the position of each of the beams. Therefore, it would be right to get the necessary experience and skill in working with hipped roofs from more experienced craftsmen.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof: drawings and photos below.

How a pitched roof is installed

Drawing plan of the truss system

Installation of lathing, vapor barrier, waterproofing

The arrangement of different layers of a hipped roof requires careful attention to each stage of work.

Each stacked layer has its own function, all layers together form a single system which provides protection for the structure.

Laying the crate

Sheathing - a wooden structure consisting of bars located across the rafter legs. The optimal section of the lathing bars is 50x50 mm.

Before installation, the boards of the battens require treatment with antiseptic agents..

The crate is mounted either in a continuous layer or in steps of 100-150 mm (depending on the external coating).

Fasten the crate with nails.

Lathing installation

Vapor barrier installation

A vapor barrier film is installed in order to to prevent moisture from entering thermal insulation layer . The vapor barrier film is attached to the boards of the crate with an overlapping stapler. Places of overlap are sealed with adhesive tape.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the film fits snugly against the boards. In places where pipes or windows are installed, rubber or polyurethane adhesive tapes can be used.

CAREFULLY!

The vapor barrier material should not go around the boards of the battens in order to prevent the formation of places for the accumulation of water.

Water vapor has a high penetrating power, so installation of vapor barrier is a very important stage of work.

Vapor barrier installation

Installation of waterproofing

After installing the insulation, waterproofing is laid. Waterproofing does not let moisture accumulated in the under-roof space inside roofing cake. As well as thermal insulation film, waterproofing is overlapped and the joints are glued.

It is especially important to correctly lay the film in the ridge part.. The ridge area is most prone to accumulation of condensate vapors.

The importance of each stage of roofing installation hip roof it is impossible to underestimate and even more so to refuse the installation of any element.

Installation of waterproofing

Hip roofs are considered the most durable and durable. They were installed more than a hundred years ago, and such designs have proven to be reliable and durable.

Despite the complexity of the design, you can install it yourself, the main thing is to carry out step by step in a clear sequence each stage of work and choose a quality, reliable material, because the roof should protect the house for more than a dozen years.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to build a hip roof with your own hands:

In contact with

Presentable appearance, reliability, durability - all this is a hipped roof, the drawing, calculation and installation of which, of course, is quite difficult to do on your own, but you can always turn to qualified specialists for help.

A noticeable advantage of hipped roofs is that in such buildings it is very convenient to equip attic floors. The premises are very comfortable and spacious, ideal for living, unlike houses, for example, with gable roofs.

Currently, more and more buildings made according to such a plan began to appear. The advantage of a multi-pitched roof is the possibility of using it on absolutely different buildings, from a bathhouse to a large private cottage.

Houses with hipped roofs look really solid and expensive, and therefore, you should not spare time and money for its arrangement.

The main types of hipped roofs

There are no pediments (these are the triangular completions of the facades of a building, bounded on the sides by two roof slopes, and at the base by a cornice) on such a roof there are no, and attic windows are placed in the slopes.

This roof is much more economical than a gable roof in terms of the cost of wall building materials, but the inclined ribs at the junctions of the hips and front slopes require the installation of a very complex truss structure and additional measurement, adjustment roofing material.

Slopes are often made with different levels of inclination, due to which the silhouette is created. broken roof.

• Semi-hip (Danish) design. It differs from the previous one in the presence of a pediment, which has a small hip at the top. Protection from wind loads in such a roof is provided by a ridge (the upper horizontal edge of the roof, formed due to the intersection of two slopes). Most often, such a roofing device is found in regions with frequent strong winds.

• Tent construction. It looks like a pyramid: four triangular slopes, converging at the tops in one place. Such roofs do not have gables; they are erected on small buildings in the form of an equilateral polygon or square. Installation of a truss system on such a roof is very difficult.

Creating a pitched roof project

Before starting work on the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to design it, carry out calculations for the structure, and also create its drawing.

The project of a hipped roof provides that the slope of the slopes of such a roof can be in the range from 5 to 60 degrees. It depends on atmospheric loads, the purpose of the attic and the type of roofing materials used.

In areas with frequent and heavy precipitation, the slope of the slopes should be significant (from 45 to 60 degrees). In regions with strong winds and rare rains, the slope of the slopes is usually made much less.

If the angle of inclination is approximately 5-18 degrees, the use of a roll coating is recommended; 14-60 - asbestos-cement sheets, roofing metal; 30-60 - tiles.

The height of the roof ridge is calculated using a trigonometric expression for right triangles.

Calculation of rafters is the beginning of drawing up the entire project of the house. Their cross section is determined depending on the expected load (weight roof structures, roof pie, external influences), and the degree of slope of the roof. With the help of calculations, the step between the rafters is also determined, their bearing capacity is checked.

The plan of the rafters of a hipped roof provides for which rafters it is advisable to use - layered or hanging. It also turns out whether additional elements are needed: braces, puffs, etc.

If it happens that standard parameters lumber was not suitable for the future roof, you can modify them. For example, you can lengthen the rafters or double the beams. You can also use glued or type-setting rafter legs (they are noticeably more powerful and longer than usual).

The impact of loads on the rafter system

Rafters are subjected to constant (mass of roofing, battens, rafters, etc.) and temporary (wind, precipitation) loads. The main design parameter of snow load, adopted in Russia for middle lane– 180 kg/m?. A snow bag can increase this figure to 400-450 kg/m².

If the roof slope is greater than 60 degrees, the snow load is not taken into account.

The standard design value of the wind load for central Russia is 35kg/m².

If the roof slope is less than 30 degrees, the wind correction is not taken into account in the drawing.

The load parameters are adjusted for local climate conditions through special coefficients. The total mass of the roof is calculated based on the amount of materials used and the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure.

Payload indicators for the system are included in the calculations if ceilings are suspended from the trusses, water-heating tanks, ventilation chambers, etc. are installed.

It is obligatory to calculate the strength of the rafters and the degree of possible deformation under various conditions.

The most commonly used as rafters are: a rectangular beam with a section corresponding to the calculated loads, boards with parameters 5x15, 5x20 cm.

Most often, the choice is stopped on softwood lumber (spruce, pine) with a moisture content in the range of 18-22%, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

To increase the rigidity and stability of the geometry of the truss system of a multi-pitched roof, steel elements are sometimes introduced.

Installation and installation of the truss system

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to choose necessary materials and tools. In addition, it would be nice to get a drawing of the entire structure on paper. Of the materials you will definitely need: thermal insulation ( mineral wool e.g.), waterproofing, vapor barrier, wooden beams, roofing material, wood for lathing. Required Tools: drill, screwdriver, hammer, nails, self-tapping screws, level, tape measure, measuring rod, etc.

The scheme of a hipped roof assumes the presence of rafters, support beams, braces, and other elements necessary to stiffen the entire structure.

Rafters having a cross section of 5 × 15 cm will add reliability to the structure. When you go shopping for lumber for rafters, don't go for wet, twisted, or severely flawed lumber.

Roofing is always done from the bottom up. First of all, support beams (Mauerlat) are laid, on which rafters are subsequently installed. So you get a lower frame, which should extend beyond the walls by 40-50 cm. It is not desirable that the rafters protrude from the edges of the walls exceed the limits specified above, otherwise the object will look inharmonious.

Do not forget to check the correct installation using the building level.

If the building wooden walls, support beams are not needed, since the upper crown of the log house will act as a Mauerlat.

After that, frame rafter legs are installed from each corner of the building, they are called oblique (diagonal). The upper parts of the rafter legs, if necessary, can be held by a system of braces and racks. Their main task is to unload the rafters by redistributing the load along interior walls or supporting pillars, as well as to give the entire structure sufficient rigidity.

Special care should be taken with the attachment points of the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. These are the main points that are responsible for the strength of the truss system as a whole. The overhang of a hipped roof is regulated by the length of the diagonal rafters.

A special table of coefficients will help in the work with the length ratios presented in it and the laying of the rafters for different slopes of the roof slope. In one of its columns, the coefficients for intermediate ones are indicated, in the other - for the corner rafter legs. In order to calculate the required length of the rafter, multiply the laying by the coefficient. You can easily find such a table on the Internet.

In those places where there are no load-bearing walls, the heels of the rafters can be placed on the longitudinal beams (side runs). In addition, a beam is mounted in the center, it is mounted on three supports: in the middle and at both ends.

If you have a large roof area, you can not do without the arrangement of truss trusses, which will take on part of the load from the rafters. Sprengel trusses need puffs on which they will rely. Sometimes they can be fixed on existing transverse or longitudinal beams.

The parameters associated with the height and degree of slope of the roof are determined precisely by the height of the rafters and the horizontal upper beam (ridge run).

After installing the guide rafters, proceed to the construction of the main frame. Attach the inclined (outdoor) rafters to the support beams, as well as to the ridge run.

They should be installed in increments of 40-50 cm, no more. If the gaps are too large, the rafter system may not withstand the loads from the snow that has fallen. The scheme of the truss roof system must take into account this fact.

Fasten the inclined rafters together at a distance of about a meter from the upper rafter beam. This can be done using boards with a cross section of at least 4 * 12 cm.

It is not necessary to select outdoor rafters strictly in length, because they will most likely have to be cut. The main thing is to make sure that they are not too short.

• in order to reduce the likelihood of errors to a minimum, use not a tape measure, but a special measuring rod when measuring;
• mark the center line along the top trim of the end wall. After that, measure half the thickness of the ridge beam, draw the placement line of the first of all the central intermediate rafters;
• align the end of the lath and the placement line of the rafter that you marked a little earlier. On the other end of the measuring rail, copy the line of the inner contour of the side wall (thus you will lay the intermediate rafter). Transfer the line of the outer contour of the wall and the overhang of the roof to the measuring rail;
• to determine the future location of the second of the central rafters, move the measuring rail to the wall from the side, transfer the desired laying of the rafters to it from the inner corner of the upper trim;
• repeat the entire algorithm of actions in each of the corners. Following this scheme, you will determine the location of the ends of the ridge beam, as well as all the central intermediate rafters.

After installing the truss system in accordance with the plan, they make a crate, vapor barrier, waterproofing, counter-lattice, as well as roof insulation.

The final stage of the construction of a hipped roof

After installing the entire structure, a hipped roof (like any other) provides for the creation of a crate. For this purpose, use wooden planks 50 or 40 mm thick. The main thing is that the material is of high quality and well dried.

Before installing the crate, it is necessary to lay a film that insulates the roof from steam and moisture. Such a film is attached with a stapler. In addition, in no case should you lose sight of the thermal insulation that should be equipped in the attic. Thermal insulation is necessary to maintain normal building conditions. temperature regime. And after that, the installation of a hipped roof is carried out.

And final stage- laying roofing. You are not limited in choice, be guided by your own taste, material capabilities and design features your roof. The main thing is to attach the material firmly enough, carefully, so that rain cannot penetrate into the room through the joints, and the wind cannot tear off fragments of the roof.

The scheme of the hip roof truss system is very complex, as has been said more than once above, but do not be afraid of it. The most important thing is to make all the calculations and measurements correctly, and also not to make a mistake with the markup. Having thoroughly understood this once, you can easily repeat a similar construction. Of course, it will be quite difficult for one person to cope with the amount of work ahead, so a couple of assistants will not hurt.

Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Despite the fact that they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple “box” a more interesting look. Secondly, because they are strong and reliable. And although the truss roof system is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made by hand.

Types of hipped roofs

Four-pitched roofs are the most expensive and difficult to construct. But, despite this, they were and remain popular. And all because they look more attractive than all other types of roofs, have high mechanical strength, and resist wind and snow loads well. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks “more solid” than with any other.

Even a simple "box" under a 4-pitched roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitched roofs: hip and hip. Hipped is suitable for square buildings, hip - for rectangular. In a hipped roof, all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

The classic hip roof has two slopes in the form of trapeziums that converge on the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that adjoin the extreme points of the ridge beam.

For all that, there are four slopes in any case, the arrangement and calculation of these roofs are different. The assembly order is also different.

Half hip

The hip roof is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several other varieties of it. For example, half-hips - Danish and Dutch.

Half hip roofs - Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows you to use the under-roof space as a living space. Of course, compared to a full-fledged second floor, there is less living space, but the construction costs are also not so high.

The slope of the slopes and the height of the roof

The angle of inclination of a hipped roof is determined based on the snow and wind loads in your area. The higher the snow load, the higher the skate should be raised - so that the slope is steeper and the snow does not linger in large volumes. In strong winds, on the contrary, the skate is lowered lower - in order to reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes and, consequently, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 of the height of the first (or only) floor.

Practical considerations can be of two kinds. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as residential, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If your height is higher than 175 cm, the bar will have to be raised.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be taken into account.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can “work”. If you have certain preferences for the type of roofing material, consider this factor. It depends on what height the truss system of the hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Hip roof truss system

If they make a hipped roof, most often it is a hip roof. Let's talk about her first. The central part of the truss system repeats the system one to one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed "in place" - on the roof, two people are enough for such work. Rafter trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but in order to raise and install finished trusses, either equipment (crane) or a team of four or more people is needed.

The main differences of the hip roof truss system are in those places where the rafters are shortened (truss semi-legs) and hips are formed - triangular slopes. Diagonal rafters are installed here, which are also called slanting. They rest on the outer or inner corners of the building, they are longer than ordinary rafter legs. On the diagonal rafters you need to turn Special attention, since they have one and a half load (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, splicing them in width with nails. Also, to support the diagonal rafter legs, additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a trussed block.

Another truss system of a hip-type four-pitched roof is different in that the Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the building, and not just along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not just on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat- element roofing system building. It is a bar or log laid on top around the perimeter outer wall. Serves as an extreme lower support for the rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, slanted (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal hip roof rafters usually exceeds the standard length of lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced ​​and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we obtain a beam of the required length, we increase its bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand greater loads than a solid beam of the same section. And one more thing: spliced ​​beams for rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper, and you don't need to look for special material.

If spliced ​​beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually insured by installing struts and / or trusses (racks).

• If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one strut is enough, which abuts against the upper part of the beam.
• With a length of 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional rack or sprengel is installed. These supports are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the length of the rafter.
• With a length of an inclined rafter of more than 9 meters, a third, intermediate support is needed - a stand that supports the middle of the run.

Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam supported by two adjoining external walls. A rack rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (the slopes are set if necessary).

A truss truss is usually not considered, but is made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150 * 100 mm, racks - 100 * 100 mm, for cuttings - 50 * 100 mm. This can be a beam of a suitable section or spliced ​​beams.

Supporting the sloping rafter leg

Diagonal sling legs with their upper end rest on a ridge beam. The exact execution of this node depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is only one run, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the sub-rafter frame. If such an issue is too large, then it is cut. But you shouldn’t make it shorter - growing it is much more difficult and expensive. The oblique diagonal legs will rest at this point.

The rafters are cut at the right angle, joined on the console. Fasten with nails. You can strengthen the connection with metal patch plates.

If there are two ridge spans (they are done if an attic-type living space is planned), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

• If spliced ​​boards are used, a truss is needed, which relies on the extensions of the ridge runs. Diagonal rafters are cut and rest on a trussed post.
• If a beam is used, a surf is installed in the place of support - a piece of board with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The board is fastened with nails to two runs, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

The lower part of the rafter legs is cut horizontally and attached to the Mauerlat or strapping board. For greater reliability of the assembly, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).

Fastening - nails on both sides, if necessary, can be additionally fixed with wire twists or clamps.

How to attach sprigs and semi-legs

To the installed diagonal rafter legs, on the one hand, shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called semi-legs) are attached, on the other hand - rafters - rafters that form a hip. They must be arranged in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the outdoor rafters (better - in the direction of decreasing the step).

Usually shortened rafters are cut and fastened with 2-3 nails on both sides. This attachment is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it “correctly”, you need to make a “cut” for each rafter - a recess no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are cut, set to the desired position, the desired contour is circled on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). A notch is cut out along the resulting contour, into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is fastened with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to do it. But the bearing capacity of such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is much simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

The best way to fasten sprigs and semi-legs to the slanted beam can be considered to be their fastening on nails with the additional installation of cranial bars (see the figure above). For this, a beam with a section of 50 * 50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this embodiment, the beam becomes an I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity, and the bearing capacity increases.

How to fix the lower ends of the rafters

The method of attaching the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of truss roof system is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, which particular scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings that are contraindicated for expansion loads - wooden, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They consist of two parts. One is installed on the mortgage board, the second - on the rafters. Between themselves, they are connected movably - with the help of a long slot or plate.

With such a device, when the load changes, the roof "wins back" - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no spacer loads, the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred vertically down to the walls. This fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that occur with a complex roof structure (with adjunctions in the form of the letter G or T).

A rigid mount can be made in different ways - with a cutout for a power plate / strapping board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually with nails, it can be strengthened metal plates and corners.

A connection with a cutout is made if a hipped roof with an outlet - overhangs. Usually the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they grow them - add boards that are nailed through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make overhangs as long as you want without a lot of overspending on materials.

Danish half hip roof

The truss system of a Danish-type four-pitched roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, a support board with a thickness of at least 5 cm is stuffed. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the base board is your choice. But, the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will go. With a large area of ​​\u200b\u200ba half-hip, you will have to consider the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

But a low-lying support board allows you to put a horizontal window of sufficient area. This is beneficial if a residential area is located under a hip hipped roof.

So that the surf (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) does not bend from downward loads, a shorty is installed - a segment of the same board, which is nailed to the stand supporting the ridge beam. The same stops are made on the edges of the surf, having well fixed the short ones with nails (the installation step is in a checkerboard pattern in 5-10 cm).

With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the extreme pair of rafter legs. There are two amplification methods:

• The extreme rafters are made double.
• Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the strut rests against a bed or rack. They are fastened with nails, the joints are reinforced by installing scraps of boards.

If the house has a rectangular shape and the hip is not too wide, you can either install struts or make extreme rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the truss system of the Danish-type four-pitched roof is assembled in exactly the same way as described above.

Device 4 pitched hipped roof on the example of a gazebo

For a square gazebo 4.5 * 4.5 meters, they made a hipped roof covered with soft tiles. The slope angle is chosen "floor material", taking into account snow and wind loads - 30 °. Since the structure is small, it was decided to make a simple system (in the figure below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. With a rafter length of up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A bar 90 * 140 mm was used for the strapping.

They assembled the truss system on the ground, fixed it on the support pillars, then installed a solid flooring from, after -.

First, we assembled the harness, which will be attached to the supporting pillars. Next, they installed rafters that rest on the middle of the strapping. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we put a rack, on top of which the rafter legs will join. AT this option this rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for large houses - this rack can remain.

We take a board of the desired section, lean it against the rack in the place where they will be connected (depending on the desired angle of inclination). We note how it should be cut (above, at the junction and where it joins the harness). We cut off everything superfluous, try it on again, adjust if necessary. Further on this blank we make three more of the same.

Now the truss system is four-pitched hipped roof you can start collecting. Most questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The best way - reliable and not too complicated - is to take a piece of timber of a suitable section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).

The size of the faces - according to the cross section of the cut of the rafter legs

Having fixed all four central elements of the truss system with nails, we perform the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies according to the template made, mount it.

By the same principle, we make semi-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be further strengthened with corners or metal plates, then the truss roof system will be more reliable and you will not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.

We put the assembled system on the racks of the gazebo, fasten it with nails, corners, and fix it with mowing. After that, you can mount the crate (in this case, solid) and lay the roofing material.

Four-pitched roofs are becoming more in demand every year, which is due to the design conditions for sufficiently large structures. Such a roof looks more compact and neat compared to the classic versions of gable roofs. In addition, it is possible to perform not only the standard design of such a roof, but also to diversify the roof with various elements, most often represented by dormers and dormers.

Variants of pitched roofs

Four-pitched roofs are distinguished by sufficient species diversity, which allows the following types of structures to be performed:

• . It is characterized by two trapezoidal planes in combination with a pair of triangular slopes. The design is distinguished by the absence of gables, and for the installation of attic or dormer windows roof slopes are used.

• half hip roof. The main difference lies in the unusual design of the hips, which consist of two parts. The lower trapezoidal segment is combined with the upper triangular part.

• hipped roof. The name of this design is due to the joining of all four slopes of a triangular shape at one upper point with the formation of a quadrangular pyramid with a base of a square or rectangle. Characterized by the complete absence of gables. The device of hipped roofs is due to the presence of a rather complex truss system, which requires detailed drawings and careful planning.

Design features

To create a competent roof project, it is necessary to take into account any possible loads that the future truss system will experience.

Project documentation should contain:

• the main drawings of the rafter system and the main nodes, at the junction of the rafters with the Mauerlat and the ridge, as well as the location of the crate;

• technological features of the roofing cake and other roofing elements.

Drawing hip roof

The basis of a detailed project makes it easy to perform all calculations of the required amount of materials for the rafter system and the roofing pie.

Load calculation

The main units of account are:

• the mass of the necessary roofing material;

• the mass of all layers of the roofing cake being performed, including vapor and waterproofing, as well as the amount of insulation;

• wind load, calculated with the condition of regional features and roofing slope;

• indicators of the intensity and amount of precipitation in summer;

• snow load typical for the construction region;

• weight serving roofing, people;

• dimensions and weight of additional equipment intended for installation on the roof surface.

Carrying out the calculation of the dimensions of the elements of the hipped roof

The obtained parameters and the indicator of the roofing slope form the basis for calculating the length and section of the truss system and contribute to the competent selection of roofing material.

The device of the truss system

The process of constructing hipped roofs is based on the use of sloping or diagonal rafters, which are located towards the corners of the structure. It should be borne in mind that such a design is subject to a greater load, which requires the construction of rafters from a double type of timber.

A sufficiently significant length involves the use of connections that, under high loads, can be subject to subsidence. It is for this reason that under connecting elements strong supports are required.

The design requires the use of sprockets or short rafters, resting with the upper part on the rafters. For fixing, several different points are selected, contributing to the most even distribution of the load from the sprigs.

In the process of creating a hipped roof, in addition to standard elements, additional frame components are involved. All components of such a roof make up a single system that combines:

• beds, which are internal support bars laid on top bearing walls or colon;

• side rafters forming trapezoidal roof slopes;

• diagonal or oblique type of rafters;

• vertical type of supports, represented by racks and trusses, which help to maintain the truss system;

• purlin or ridge beam, which is a horizontal support for the rafter system at the top of the roof structure. Stacked on top of the racks and fixed. For a hipped roof, there is no need to mount a ridge beam;

• horizontal puffs or crossbars for connecting side rafters, which, without installing such elements, can move apart in different directions;

• roofing sprigs mounted on top of diagonal rafters to form a pitched frame;

• wind types of beams and strut struts, which increase the strength of the roof and allow it to withstand most loads;

• filly to create the necessary roof overhang, which are fixed in the lower segment of the rafter legs.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction technology

Installation work is carried out immediately after the development of the project and the acquisition of all materials necessary in accordance with the calculations.

At the initial stage, a Mauerlat is installed, which is fixed on the walls of the building. When laying, it is necessary to maintain a distance of five centimeters from the edge of the outer wall. Most often, an anchor option is used to fasten the Mauerlat.

The next stage involves the implementation of high-quality markings, followed by the installation of racks and the establishment of a ridge beam. In the course of the work performed, it is necessary to use a plumb line. To fix the racks, special jibs are required.

Next is the installation of the rafters, during the installation of which the size of the future overhang is taken into account. Under standard conditions, the length of the overhang is from fifty centimeters to a meter. Optimal size- sixty centimeters.

Proper installation of diagonal rafters must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

• slanting rafters are attached to the Mauerlat with the fastening of shortened rafters or sprigs;

• the transfer of loads from the rafters is distributed by trussed trusses;

• as a support for truss trusses, additional puffs are used, mounted on beams of longitudinal or transverse types;

• in accordance with the design documentation, puffs, crossbars, racks and struts are installed, which are designed to increase the rigidity of the structure;

• the fastening of the diagonal rafters at the top is carried out on a ridge run, based on a longitudinal type of beam;

• it is imperative to use a special type of tie-ins and cuts, supplemented by metal fasteners, which will ensure the connection of the lower rafter ends and the Mauerlat;

• installation of ordinary rafters with a step corresponding to the calculated loads is carried out immediately after the installation of diagonal rafters;

• the rafters are connected by means of horizontal crossbars from boards with a section of 120 x 40 millimeters;

• rafters increase the resistance of hip slopes under significant wind loads;

• the presence of a bay window in the project requires the installation of rafter beams from finger-jointed edged boards or timber.

The next stage of installation is the installation of sprockets and side rafters, which must be located in the same plane. As a result of these works, lateral roof slopes are formed. Care should be taken to ensure the parallelism of all installed rafters, sprigs and side elements.

After the installation of the structure of the entire truss system is completed, it is necessary to perform high-quality for which bars with a cross section of forty or fifty millimeters are used. This is followed by the standard execution of a suitable roofing cake, on top of which the selected roofing material is mounted.

Learn more about the construction of the roof from the video.

Summing up

A four-slope roof is the most reliable and economical option for a roofing device in the absence of the need for an attic.

The absence of load-bearing elements in the form of rigid gables requires ensuring the reliability of the structure in accordance with the calculations and the project.

Four-pitched roofs are classified as popular and in demand roof structures due to ease of installation and minimization of costs for Construction Materials for building walls.

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