How to insulate a balcony or loggia with mineral wool. Insulation of balconies and loggias with mineral wool Do-it-yourself insulation of balconies with mineral wool

The balcony will become an additional living room, if properly equipped. Before you start thinking through the interior and buying furniture, you need to insulate the loggia. You can do it yourself without the involvement of professional equipment.

Material selection

Several types of materials are used to finish the loggia and create thermal insulation. Before carrying out the work, it is necessary to decide which of them will be more appropriate. They differ in price operational characteristics and specific usage. Popular heaters include:

Styrofoam

Foamed plastics different density. The material is produced in the form of square or rectangular plates. hallmark foam plastic favors a long service life. Plastics are easy to process and install, even beginners can use them. The advantages of the material include low cost and the lowest thermal conductivity in the occupied market segment.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation made from different types melts - glass, volcanic and sedimentary. Based on this, the material is of three types: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool. An air layer is used as a heat insulator, with the help of which the room is isolated from the cold. The material is produced in the form of rolls, plates or cylinders, which are easy to cut and process.

The advantages of mineral wool include fire resistance, water resistance, resistance to aggressive chemical compounds and good sound insulation. In addition, the material is responsible for the continuous circulation of air and helps maintain the indoor climate. One more useful property products - its environmental friendliness. Less resources are spent on the production of mineral wool, it does not emit harmful compounds into the air.

Penoplex

Insulation based on polystyrene. The material is obtained by forcing plastics through a forming hole. Extruded polystyrene foam is produced in the form of rectangular slabs of different colors.

There is a chamfer along the perimeter of the products, which simplifies the fitting of the material and allows you to stack the elements as tightly as possible to each other. Penoplex has a porous structure with small cells filled with gas and isolated from each other. This results in good thermal insulation characteristics: insulation can be used even in severe winters.

The material is lightweight, making it easy to transport and install. The weight of the insulation can withstand even a light foundation, installation does not require the help of professionals. In addition, penoplex weighs little, and its service life can reach 50 years. The product does not rot or decompose, resistant to harmful microorganisms.

Foil polyethylene foam

A layer of polyethylene filled with gas and soldered to the foil. A versatile multifunctional material that retains heat, absorbs moisture, reflects steam and acts as a sound insulator. The product consists of several layers, one of which is made of aluminum and reflects up to 97% of heat.

The material is easy to process and trim, weighs little. The small thickness of the product allows it to be laid both end-to-end and overlap. Polyethylene foam doubles the thermal efficiency, beating a different temperature.

Required Tools

After purchasing the material, they begin to select the appropriate equipment and inventory. Balcony insulation does not require the use of complex hard-to-reach tools, and a beginner can do all the work.

To finish the loggia you will need:

Hacksaw. Needed for cutting materials.
Glue gun. It is used for gluing elements.
Putty knife. Apply to drawing glue and hard putty on working surfaces.
Perforator or drill. These tools cut holes for fasteners.
Brush. It is used when it is required to paint putty.
Sandpaper. Required for the final surface treatment of the insulation.
Level. Controls the vertical plane of the surface.
Brush. She is being primed.
Construction bucket. Glue is diluted in it.
Wooden slats, metal corners. For processing the edges of insulation, fitting plates.
Self-tapping screws, nails, dowels. They are used as fasteners.
Construction stapler. Needed when installing and fastening materials. The length of the brackets is 10 mm.
Mounting foam. It is used to close gaps and edges.

The list of tools varies depending on the material chosen and the features of the loggia.

When the balcony has an uneven floor, cement, sand or ready-made leveling compounds can be applied before repair. For measuring work, a ruler or tape measure is used, and for diluting glue, you will need a construction bucket or other container that you won’t mind getting dirty.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding directly to the insulation of the balcony, all debris and dirt should be removed from the loggia. If there are old coatings on the floor or walls, they must be removed. Also, when preparing, you need to divide the balcony into “cold” and “warm” zones. The former include walls and corners facing the street or bordering other non-insulated surfaces. All other parts of the balcony are classified as warm.

Based on this, a plan for future work is outlined:

Walls and corners bordering the street should be insulated with great care;
If the balcony borders on an insulated loggia, the partition between them can not be processed;
The floor and ceiling are insulated, regardless of the design and location of the balcony;
The corners formed by the "warm" zones are not insulated.

Before warming, it is recommended to cover the floor with a primer. This will prevent mold and harmful micro-organisms from growing. On unglazed loggias there are often through holes, holes and cracks. They are sealed with mounting foam or special solutions to avoid heat loss and prolong the life of the insulation.

Glazing of the loggia

Glazing - necessary step when processing a balcony. This will keep warm, protect the room from wind, snow and rain and turn the loggia into a separate room. This procedure requires more effort than insulation itself, and for its implementation it is recommended to contact professionals. However, more experienced and self-confident repairmen are able to do this on their own.

There are several ways to glaze a balcony:

With wooden frames. The advantage of this method is the high quality of the materials used, strength, long service life and excellent external characteristics. Wooden frames suppress street noise well and retain heat. Only sliding structures should be treated with caution. They are made in such a way that water can penetrate into them and freeze at a negative temperature.
Frameless glazing. Guarantees protection from atmospheric precipitation, adverse weather conditions. The design has a minimum of elements, each of which is of high quality and durability. When using this method, the frames are not visible, because the windows look solid, and penetrates large quantity Sveta. The disadvantages of the method include the high cost and the impossibility of full insulation of the loggia, due to which the loggia can be blown through with strong gusts of wind.
With the help of metal-plastic structures. The method is widespread due to good performance characteristics and relatively low cost. The system will maintain the temperature inside the room, provide reliable air circulation. Plastic structures are more functional than wooden or other frames, so the balcony can be ventilated even in the cold season.
The systems have a long service life. A balcony glazed in this way will last at least 40 years. There are drainage holes in the design, minimizing the risk of frames freezing. In addition, plastic is easier to care for - it does not require painting, it is easy to wash and clean.
Aluminum glazing. One of the cheapest options. The design is lightweight, the load on the balcony floors is minimal. At the same time, the materials are strong, durable and resistant to external mechanical stress. They are easy to care for, they are not afraid of moisture and high temperatures. Installation of the structure is carried out in a short time, people without experience will be able to produce it.

How to insulate correctly from the inside: step by step instructions

On the balcony, three types of surfaces are required to be processed. You should start from the floor, then go to the walls and ceiling. The procedures for each of the zones are carried out in a similar way, however, they have some differences in the laying of the layers.

The insulated floor consists of several layers:

Waterproofing. It is placed on concrete floor. For a glazed loggia, a plastic film is suitable.
Wooden logs. They are made from a bar measuring 100x60 mm. The elements are aligned along the plane, placing bars and wedges under them.
Thermal insulation material. The insulation is placed in the space between the lags. It is important that the layers fit snugly against each other, and there are no gaps between them.
Vapor barrier film. A draft floor is mounted on it, which can be used as plywood.

The final coating is laid on top of the last layer, but this should be done after all repairs have been completed. Otherwise, the floor may be scratched, soiled or damaged.

Wall insulation begins with the installation of the crate. In the event that repairs are made in panel house, initially it is required to make the loggia fence solid, and only then proceed to repair work. The crate is mounted from a bar with dimensions of 40x40 or 50x50 mm. First, vertical elements are placed and fixed with dowels, then they are connected with transverse parts. Insulation is laid in the space between the crate, then a vapor barrier film is attached.

Final stage– ceiling processing:

The cleaned surface is treated with an antiseptic.
Lathing bars are nailed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws or dowels with locking screws.
The insulation is mounted using wood glue or mounting foam.
To create a vapor barrier, a polyethylene or foil film is laid.
If you want to install ceiling lighting, electrical wires are carried out.
The design is sewn up with plastic or wooden panels.

After warming the balcony surfaces, they begin to finish them. At this stage, you can choose original design, based on the color of the furniture, the purpose of the future room and the availability decorative elements. It is at this stage that an atmosphere of comfort is created, therefore the stage should be given Special attention. If necessary, you can turn to professionals to create an original project.

Finishing

The final stage of repair work is wall cladding. When finishing, they take care of both the aesthetic characteristics of the balcony and protective functions. The balcony should be isolated from adverse environmental conditions and be comfortable for regular stay in the room. During installation, it is recommended to take bars with a thickness of no more than 2 cm. They are fixed so that there is a gap between them for finishing materials, for example, white sealant.

The final finish is made with several types of materials:

Clapboard. Natural material with a natural color. Fixed with nails or a construction stapler. The lining is durable, wear-resistant, resistant to moisture. At the same time, it is quite expensive.
Plastic panels. The material is easy to install, the "liquid nails" method is used for installation. Plastic withstands temperature extremes and high humidity, does not require painting. Panel manufacturers offer big variety colors. You can pick up panels that imitate wood or decorated with drawings.
MDF. The material is pressed cardboard panels covered with a special film. Cleimers are used to fasten elements. A feature of the building material is that it absorbs moisture well, therefore it is necessary to avoid contact with water.

We warm the panoramic loggia

Large windows, devoid of frames and partitions - an option for those who want to make a balcony with original interior. Such glazing is more expensive and serves as a sign of elitism. Insulation of a panoramic loggia is associated with a number of nuances, without taking into account which it will not be possible to completely isolate the room and protect it from precipitation.

Processing a balcony with this type of glazing requires a lot of effort, since redevelopment of the space may be necessary to carry out the work. To do this, you will have to obtain permission to make changes to the supporting structures. In addition, you may need the help of professionals: the work requires the use of special equipment.

First of all, you need to insulate the floor. This is done even before the installation of double-glazed windows. So the thickness of the insulation and other thermal insulation layers will be chosen arbitrarily, without relying on the width of the windows. For the ceiling and walls, the thickness of the panels is not so critical, so you can deal with them at the last moment.

During the repair of the floor, several layers of materials are laid, the procedure will be similar to the installation of elements on ordinary loggias. Changes begin after the installation of foil insulation. At this stage, on the floor they have heating elements, thermoregulation sensors and electrical wires. They must cover 70% of the surface or more, the distance from the wall is at least 50 mm. Further, the structure is poured with cement mortar 40-60 mm wide, along the perimeter there is a damper tape (10x100 mm).

Common Mistakes

Many owners of balconies begin to insulate them, not taking into account many of the nuances of the work. In order to extend the life of the finished loggia and make it as functional as possible, it is necessary to clearly outline the work plan and avoid common mistakes during repair.

Balcony glazing on brackets. In the course of work, the owners of the apartment can bring the glazing frame out. In this case, a visor will appear along the perimeter of the loggia, on which snow will accumulate. Because of this, ice growths appear on the facade of the building.
One layer of insulation. When installing foam blocks with a thickness of 70-100 mm, many neglect the need to additionally insulate them. This is a mistake, since even such masonry can freeze through during prolonged cold weather and strong winds.
Lack of vapor barrier. Without the use of such a layer, the material can become damp and spoil the surfaces on the balcony. In particular, it is dangerous when the balcony is insulated. mineral wool. For the safety of the insulation, it is recommended to lay a layer of vapor barrier film.
Use of sealant without protection. The sealant foam is rapidly destroyed by exposure to sun rays and at high humidity. It can begin to bubble and spoil the appearance of the loggia. To avoid this, when repairing, cut off excess sealant, sand the edges and cover them with acrylic or putty.
Warming of "warm" zones. The wall between the apartment and the loggia does not require processing. Insulation will not affect the temperature in next room or on the balcony itself, and the procedure will only be associated with a waste of money.

Another mistake that can be made when repairing a balcony is the lack of permission to work with supporting structures. When serious redevelopment is planned in the premises, this should be reported to the technical inventory bureau that records real estate. However, permission is not needed when, for example, double-glazed windows are installed on the balcony.

Due to their design and functional features, balconies are one of the coldest rooms in the world. winter period. That is why many owners sooner or later decide to insulate their loggia or balcony with their own hands. One of the most commonly used materials for this is mineral wool.

The main advantages of mineral wool:

Environmental friendliness;
Versatility. Mineral wool is used both for wall insulation and for floor and ceiling insulation.
Ease of installation;
Efficiency;
Affordable price;
Resistance to high temperatures, up to +600 C;
High level of sound insulation.

Manufacturers divide modern mineral wool into several categories, depending on its density, namely grades 75, 100 and 125. In addition, it can be produced both in special rolls and in the form of plates.

Preparatory work

Balcony insulation can be carried out both outside and inside, but the first option is not always possible for a number of reasons. These include a violation of the architectural appearance of the building, the number of storeys of the balcony, which is due to the level of danger of the work. At the preparatory stage of work, an accurate calculation should be carried out required material and its layout. The technology of insulating a loggia or balcony with glass wool provides for the dismantling of all finishing materials and the exposure of the main frame of the structure for placement of an insulating material between the load-bearing elements of the loggia.

It is necessary to take care of a set of tools for carrying out such work, namely:

1 construction knife;
2 Measuring tape, long ruler or rule and level for the floor;
3 Electric screwdriver;
4 Construction stapler.

In addition to the main material - mineral wool, you should take care of the presence of wooden bars, which will play the role of a restraining frame for insulation and the basis for attaching subsequent finishing materials. In this case, the dimensions of the bar can be 50 by 40 mm. You will also need material for hydro and vapor barrier.

Important! In order to ensure health safety, special gloves and respirators should be used to protect against small fibers of cotton wool during its cutting or installation.

Installation of mineral wool insulation

The formation of a wooden frame on the walls for the location of the insulating material in it must be carried out starting from the top and followed by fastening every 40-50 cm. Ceiling guides are mounted according to the same principle. Pre-prepared segments of mineral wool are located in niches and fixed with a special glue. Along the perimeter, additional fastening of the edges of the insulation with a construction stapler is possible.

Special attention should be paid to do-it-yourself warming of the floor of the loggia or balcony. Here it is necessary to take care of high-quality waterproofing, and roofing felt, polyethylene or special waterproofing films can be used in the qualitatively necessary material. After laying on the entire surface of the floor of the balcony with waterproofing, guide logs are mounted, which form niches for the placement of insulation and are the basis for fastening the floor covering. The distance between the floor lags can be up to 50 cm.

When carrying out installation work on wall insulation with mineral wool, it is necessary to ensure the laying of an electrical network for the subsequent location of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches. All wooden elements, which act as a frame, must be treated with special substances that provide them with reliable protection against decay, the harmful effects of moisture and other factors. In this case, the floor frame must be processed several times.

The need for vapor barrier

At the final stage of warming a balcony or loggia with mineral wool, you need to take care of such an important element as vapor barrier. This material provides reliable protection against the appearance of already finished premises condensation, which adversely affects Decoration Materials and for the whole structure.

Mineral wool absorbs moisture very strongly, which has an extremely negative effect on its thermal insulation characteristics. The vapor barrier layer should be located between the inner lining of the balcony and the mineral wool. When insulating the floor, vapor barrier also plays a key role.

Vapor barrier is a film made in the form of a membrane. It provides control over the removal of excess moisture from the room. Do-it-yourself installation of a vapor barrier layer is simple and takes a little time.

Warming the balcony with mineral wool with your own hands will significantly save on the cost of work, and subsequently save the budget at the cost of heating residential premises.

The consequences of improper insulation of the loggia

Do-it-yourself technology for warming a balcony or loggia with mineral wool does not belong to the category of complex work, however, compliance with all requirements and norms is the key to a quality result. If the sequence of stages of work is not observed, mineral wool insulation, violation of technology or the use of unsuitable material can lead to such negative consequences as:

Condensation formation;
Wet walls and floors, and in winter time ice formation;
Formation of mold or fungus.

The technologies for insulating a balcony and a loggia are basically the same, but differ somewhat in characteristics due to the difference in the properties of a balcony and a loggia.

Balcony- remote design, its floor is a slab interfloor overlap, actually working on a break in the place where it rests on the outer wall of the building. The parapet, as a rule, is a metal lattice, it is low, has a U-shape in plan and is attached to the outer wall of the building and the floor slab, that is, the balcony and its parapet, by definition, do not differ in high strength and cannot hold a lot of weight. The balcony, as a rule, is open from above and from 3 sides.

Loggia- this is a part of the building, its entire area is located inside the load-bearing walls and structures of the house, it has a floor and a ceiling, and on the side it is deafly delimited either bearing walls, or partitions - from neighboring loggias. The parapet of the loggia is usually a slab or a low brick wall.

That is, these are completely different in terms of characteristics of the premises. The loggia can withstand a fairly large additional weight and be insulated so much that it becomes a full-fledged part of the room; almost any type of insulation can be used for it. It is almost impossible to insulate a balcony to such a state.

For good insulation of the balcony you need:

lightweight double-glazed window;
heating source on the balcony;
structural material and insulation with minimum weight and maximum thermal protection.

One of these materials is mineral wool. It has good heat and sound protection, is lightweight, easy to install. After installation, it is located between the layers of insulation and finishing of the balcony, fixed motionless, therefore it is not damaged and is completely safe. Insulation work can be carried out even in winter. Among the shortcomings, it should be noted poor moisture resistance (as a result of wrinkling when wet) and crumbling of the material during installation. It is necessary to work with it in overalls, a respirator, gloves and goggles, and at the end of the work, thoroughly vacuum the insulated room.

Preparatory work

Before insulating a balcony, it is advisable to assess its condition - whether it is, in principle, able to withstand the weight of additional structures. At this stage, it is possible to determine the weight of the structure (windows + frame for insulation + insulation + waterproofing + trim) that can be added without the risk that the balcony will collapse. Based on the calculation and choose the degree of insulation and materials.
Assess the condition of the parapet - it may need to be replaced or duplicated. It is the parapet that turns out to be load-bearing structure when installing glazing. If the parapet is bad, it can be cut off, leaving small fragments embedded in the slab and walls of the fixtures, then a new parapet can be attached to them.
Remove everything superfluous from the balcony, clean, repair and prime all surfaces, large potholes can be foamed with mounting foam.
Install a new or repair the old frame of the room (parapet, walls and roof).
(for a balcony it is necessary to choose the most lightweight double-glazed windows, the best options there will be aluminum, which is also the frame of the walls, aluminum or lightweight plastic for the frames).
Repair the potholes that have appeared again, clean the balcony from the debris that arose during the installation of windows, prime the places of the new repair.

The process of warming a balcony or loggia with mineral wool

Waterproof floor slab, walls, ceiling. The walls of the balcony, unlike the loggia, get wet from the outside from the rain, so they must also be waterproofed. For a loggia, waterproofing the walls and ceiling is completely optional. For the floor, you can use impregnations (for example, paraffin dissolved in gasoline), bituminous and polyurethane mastics, paint or roll materials- roofing material, glassine, thick polyethylene film. For the ceiling and walls, only rolled materials are desirable.
Installation on the floor, ceiling, walls of the crate with a step almost equal to the width of the mineral wool boards(one centimeter less than their width). The thickness of the wall lathing bar can (and the floor lathing should) be 0.5-1 cm more than that of the insulation board in order to create an additional "air cushion". The crate can be wooden or metal. All cracks and gaps of the frame must be minimized or foamed with mounting foam, otherwise cold bridges will occur.
Installation of mineral wool boards. First insulate the ceiling, then the walls. For the ceiling, it is better to use denser plates. On the entire surface of the plate with wide strokes, special glue is applied, diluted to the thickness of sour cream (if it is applied to the wall, it “does not slip”), and the plate is inserted into the nest prepared for it in the crate, very carefully bending the “hump” in the middle, and then pressing over the entire area so that the plate fits snugly. The length of the piece of insulation should also be slightly longer than the nest intended for it. This is important, because then it shrinks a little and voids may occur. If the length of the plate is not enough to close some section, it is closed with two pieces - and the total pieces should be 2 cm longer than this section, then the junction is sealed. The gaps must be glued with the same glue (not foam!). You can press the slab immediately over the entire area with a sheet of plywood cut to size, like a punch, and temporarily attach the plywood to the crate with clamps, turning bent nails, or simply by placing a support. This allows you to perform work on the insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with mineral wool, even alone.
When the glue dries, the cotton wool layer is fixed with mushroom dowels. In a sheet of plywood, cuts can be made in advance where the plate will need to be attached - they save time and effort, and also reduce hand contact with the glass wool sheet and its crumbling. You can also press mineral wool slabs to the ceiling with thin slats attached to the crate on self-tapping screws or a stapler bracket. So that the slats do not protrude above the surface of the crate, you can make cuts under them in advance. This will give a more reliable fixation of the insulation boards on the ceiling than with dowels.
The vapor barrier is made of a thick polyethylene film, but it is better to use penofol, placing it with a layer of foil inside the room so that it does not allow heat to escape to the outside. Penofol is installed by carefully combining the joints (overlapping is undesirable) and connecting the panels with foil tape. Polyethylene waterproofing can be done with an overlap (which is glued and closed with adhesive tape), but it is better to do everything from one piece - since the film sleeve can be up to 2 meters wide, and cut accordingly - up to 4.
The vapor-insulated surface is sutured with facing material. First, the ceiling is sheathed, then the walls. To fasten the skin, you can use nails, furniture staples or self-tapping screws. Damage to the vapor barrier membrane, of course, is unavoidable, but not critical. To facilitate the construction on the balcony, plasters are not recommended, usually the ceiling and walls are sheathed with chipboard, plywood, clapboard, plastic, and the crate acts as a lattice for them
Floor device. In the crate of the floor (the bars on the floor are usually called lags), in the same way, mineral wool slabs are installed on the glue. They can not be fixed with dowels: firstly, nothing makes them move (and ceiling and wall ones can move and deform under the action of gravity and their own weight), and secondly, there is no need to weaken the floor slab. When the glue dries, a vapor barrier is made from the film and the floor surface is sewn up. It is undesirable to walk on mineral wool slabs, therefore, until the floor is sewn up, a long wide board is placed on top of the log - they walk on it, setting floorboard or other coverage. The height of the lag, as already mentioned, should be at least 1 cm more than the insulation boards.
Clean finish. Fillet joints are glued with sealant between the ceiling, walls, floor, plywood or chipboard sheets (if the walls were sheathed with them). The walls are decorated (painting, wallpapering) and skirting boards are installed. If necessary, arrange external wiring.

- all materials and methods of their application in the insulation of a loggia or balcony.
- an alternative method to mineral wool, read about its advantages and a guide for independent work.
- very comfortable and practical device which will make your life easier.

Balcony insulation is enough simple work, the main thing to remember is that the balcony practically has only one initially warm wall - and that outer wall building. That is, the temperature on the balcony depends on the quality insulation of all its surfaces and the heat protection of the windows. In addition, insulation reduces heat loss, but cannot create it, therefore, in order to really be warm on the balcony, it will need to be heated additionally by opening the door from the room, installing an air conditioner or heater (battery).

In order to transform the balcony from a ski, bike and conservation warehouse into a cozy living space that can be used at your discretion all year round, his it is necessary to isolate as much as possible from the influence of external factors, that is, to insulate.

You need to start with glazing, closing the space between the top edge of the parapet and the top plate with high-quality energy-saving metal-plastic window structures. Then, it is necessary to effectively isolate the remaining external balcony surfaces, thereby protecting the now residential balcony from changes in external temperatures and street noise.

For these purposes, you can use several types of thermal insulation materials, one of which is mineral wool. The main characteristics of this heat insulator, as well as how to make the insulation of the balcony with mineral wool with your own hands, will be discussed further.

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

This heat insulator is produced by melting certain types of minerals, followed by the formation of a fibrous structure. Previously, glass or raw materials for its production were used as raw materials, which is why the insulation was called glass wool. This insulation had good performance, but was extremely uncomfortable to use.

Now used as a raw material basalt rocks and blast-furnace slag. Due to this, mineral wool causes less discomfort when working with it, while maintaining excellent heat and sound insulating properties.

This material comes in different densities. Less dense cotton wool has a loose structure. It goes on sale rolled into rolls, and is usually used for internal insulation, as well as for do-it-yourself thermal insulation of ceilings from the attic space.

High density wool is commonly used as an outdoor insulator and less commonly as a floor insulation. Produced in the form of rectangular sheets of different thicknesses. It goes on sale in the form of packs in which several mats of material are stacked.

Mineral wool has the following positive qualities:

minimum thermal conductivity;
absolute incombustibility;
high vapor permeability;
non-toxicity.

This heat-insulating material has and weak sides, namely:

high hygroscopicity;
tendency to caking (for low-density wool);
uncomfortable in work, especially when insulating ceilings from inside the building.

It should be noted that the listed disadvantages are relative. So that the mineral wool does not absorb moisture, it is necessary to provide effective waterproofing. In order to protect yourself from contact with fragments of insulation fibers, it is necessary to use overalls and means personal protection(gloves, respirator, goggles).

Balcony insulation with mineral wool, process description

It is possible to make thermal insulation of balcony surfaces by applying high-density mineral wool followed by plastering or using loose rolled insulation for cladding with plastic or wooden clapboard, moisture-resistant gypsum board on a pre-made crate. Both options are good and worth considering.

Insulation under plaster.

Prepare the working surface of the parapet and the top plate (ceiling). To do this, you need to clean from dust and weakly adhering fragments and impregnate with a high-quality primer.
Paste the indicated places with sheets of high-density mineral wool. For this, a special glue is used. It must be diluted in the proportions specified by the manufacturer. The glue is applied to the working side of the mineral wool sheet, first in a continuous thin layer, after which “hills” of the adhesive mass are formed in the corners of the mat, between them and in the center. After the insulation sheet is glued under the control of verticality (or horizontality, if on the ceiling).
After the adhesive mass has completely hardened (24 hours), the insulation sheets are additionally fixed with dowels with a wide cap (umbrellas). Umbrellas are installed between the corners of the mats so that one cap simultaneously attracts both adjacent fragments of insulation. One dowel is attached in the middle of the mat.
Now the surface of the insulation must be covered with a leveling layer of a special plaster mortar using a reinforcing fiberglass mesh. After hardening, another thin layer of mortar is applied. Next, you can apply any decorative plaster as a finishing touch.

Insulation under lining.

You need to start with waterproofing balcony surfaces. To do this, they are treated with any available waterproofing agent (bituminous mastic, for example).
Now you need to build a crate of wooden bars or a galvanized metal profile.
A rolled heat insulator is laid in the space between the balcony surfaces and the future sheathing.
A waterproofing film (possibly polyethylene) or penofol (foil inside the balcony) is fixed on top of the insulation.
It remains to make the lining of the finishing material.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation on the balcony

You can also make an insulated floor on the balcony in at least two ways:

make an insulated screed with subsequent coating with a finishing floor material;
build a wooden floor on logs with insulation.

In the first case, it is more expedient to use moisture-resistant polymeric extruded polystyrene foam as a heat insulator.

Mineral wool can be used under the wooden floor. To do this, you need to do the following with your own hands.

Make waterproofing balcony slab, treated with bituminous mastic.
Install lags. Their height should be slightly more than the thickness of the insulation.
Lay mineral wool between the lags.
Fix on top a layer of any of the waterproofing materials mentioned above.
Sew a board.

Arrangement of a balcony and a loggia can significantly increase the usable area of a city apartment. Insulation will reduce heat loss, and homeowners will be able to use additional room all year round. One of the most popular materials for thermal insulation is mineral wool, which has its own characteristics.

Mineral wool is a reliable insulation and an effective sound and heat insulator.

Work procedure

To insulate the balcony and loggia from the inside, you will need to prepare fasteners in advance.

The best choice would be anchor bolts or dowel nails. Fasteners are passed through mineral wool.

The stages of warming are performed in the following sequence:

You need to find all the gaps and eliminate them. To do this well, you need to use mounting foam, the excess of which, after drying, is cut off with a clerical knife. good choice is "Moment Montage" or "Macroflex".
We warm the floor. Quick installation does not provide sufficient thermal insulation. A crate is installed in which the insulation is laid, the load-bearing flooring is sewn from boards, chipboard or plywood, they are laid on top flooring from, or parquet.
We perform wall insulation. In this case, you will need to take several steps - installing the crate, filling it with mineral wool with laying a film for hydro and vapor barrier, cladding and finishing.
We insulate the ceiling. The steps of the previous step are repeated.

Common mistakes when insulating a balcony and a loggia with mineral wool

Do-it-yourself construction can lead to unexpected results. The following are the most common mistakes:

Using mineral wool without vapor barrier will ruin the floor and wall coverings. The material will quickly dampen, and the neighbors will find loggias on their ceiling. In addition to leaks, they may appear.
Selecting the wrong material for sealing gaps will lead to the creation of "cold bridges". Mounting foam should be used.
Internal insulation will not achieve the desired result if external insulation is not performed due to the lack of heat accumulation.
Improper installation of insulation on a loggia or balcony is an additional waste. The landlord will have to insulate the room again.

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Thermal insulation technology for balconies and loggias with mineral wool

Mineral wool is mounted under the frame. The walls are pre-treated with an antifungal primer. The material is laid between the frame supports and walls, ceiling, roof. Supports can serve metal profiles and wooden boards.

For a snug fit of the mineral wool to the structure, precise cutting of the insulation is required

Their choice is influenced by the facing materials that will be used for decorative finishes. If the homeowner prefers drywall, you will need metal carcass. It is written in more detail about plasterboard sheathing.

If so, then the crate is made of wood. In order to economize

We fix the vapor barrier film with a construction stapler.

the interior space of the room, install boards with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm2. The crate is mounted using the building level. Vertical racks are attached to the ceiling and floor with anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the installed racks.

The use of mineral wool requires the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier: a breathable material allows air or steam to pass through. To prevent water from getting inside the mineral wool, a vapor barrier film is laid between the finish and the insulation.

The use of mineral wool for external insulation allows you to create perfectly warm walls for a balcony or loggia. The insulation process is similar to the thermal insulation methods that are used for indoor walls.

Advantages and disadvantages

Mineral wool is a fibrous material that is obtained from rocks or slags. This insulation has unique properties, they are its undeniable advantages:

Fire safety. Minwatane deforms at high temperatures.
Convenient use. The material in the form of plates is easy to cut with a knife, and the mats are sawn with a hacksaw.
Minimal thermal and natural shrinkage. Over time, no gaps are formed at the joints for the passage of cold.
Excellent soundproof properties. When passing through the material, the sound becomes weaker by 95%.
Non-hygroscopic and good vapor conductivity. The room maintains an optimal microclimate.
Excellent biological stability. Mice or mold will start in the mineral water.
Low thermal conductivity. High thermal resistance saves money on repairs.

Disadvantages of mineral wool:

The material loses its thermal insulation properties when wet.
Precautions must be taken when installing insulation. For safety reasons, it is recommended to wear a respirator.
Over time, mineral wool begins to release formaldehyde. By themselves, these allocations are minimal and cannot exceed the allowable rate. However, if there are other sources of formaldehyde in the room, then this factor cannot be ignored.

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