Breeding of new forms and varieties of ornamental plants. How to breed your own tomato variety and get documents for it How new plant varieties are bred

According to violet lovers, these plants reproduce easily, so that, having an adult bush of varietal Saintpaulia, dozens of young plants can be grown very soon. In this case, vegetative methods are most often used, with the help of which it is possible to preserve all varietal characteristics.

Saintpaulias are propagated by leaf cuttings, dividing the bush and even flower stalks. When breeding new varieties, violets are propagated by seeds.

In the article, you will learn everything about the reproduction of violets at home with a leaf, cuttings, dividing a bush, etc. and about the subsequent care of indoor flowers.

Propagation of Saintpaulia by leaf cuttings

Consider how to propagate violet by cuttings. Best of all, leafy cuttings take root in the spring and summer. For rooting, choose a healthy violet leaf with a sufficiently long petiole (at least 4 cm in length).

You need to take the leaves not young, but not old. They should be large and without yellowness. Old and very young leaves usually die without taking root.

The leaf should be cut as close as possible to the stem of the plant. If part of the petiole still remains on the mother violet, it must be removed. Such a petiole can rot and destroy the entire plant.

The petiole of the cut leaf is cut diagonally so that the cut surface is as large as possible. After that, the leaf is rooted and planted in the ground. Leaf cuttings allow you to get a plant that is fully consistent with the mother. Only a few varieties, when propagated by leaves, lose their varietal characteristics.

Methods for rooting cuttings

Rooted leaf cuttings in water, in the ground or in sphagnum. Rooting in water is the easiest way. Cooled boiled water is poured into a glass and leaves are placed there with petioles down. The temperature during rooting must be maintained from 20 to 24ºС. Under these conditions, roots should appear in 2 weeks.

Do not rush to plant rooted leaves in the ground. You can wait another 2-3 weeks until sprouts begin to appear on the petiole. Now the leaves can be planted in separate pots with Saintpaulia soil. It is not necessary to deepen them much, they are planted no deeper than 10-15 mm. After planting, rooted leaf blades are watered as adult plants.

Sometimes a freshly cut leaf is immediately planted in the ground. After that, it is watered in normal mode, glass or jar do not cover.

Roots and young leaves appear after 1-1.5 months. Rooting in the ground is associated with the risk of leaf rotting and this method is considered not very productive.

Good results are obtained by rooting leaf cuttings in sphagnum.

In this substrate, they do not rot, since sphagnum moss has bactericidal properties. You can use both dry soaked and live moss.

Rooting violets immediately in the soil mixture

Very often, violet leaves are rooted directly in the soil. To do this, choose large and healthy leaves without defects and damage. Sluggish, rotten, broken leaves are not recommended to be taken, as they quickly disappear without taking root. The leaf stalk is shortened, leaving no more than 3 cm. The lower cut is made at an angle so that the area for root formation increases.

Root leaves in small plastic pots up to 5 cm wide. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom, equal in thickness to 1/3 of the height of the pot. A moist rooting substrate is poured on top. It consists of an earthen mixture for violets and perlite in equal parts.

The leaves are not buried deep - no more than 2 cm. In order for a heavy sheet to hold tightly and not fall out of the soil, it is fixed with sticks or matches. For speedy rooting, it is placed under a glass jar or placed in a plastic bag along with a pot.

The temperature for rooting should be between 22-25ºС. Leaf lighting - diffused, at least 12 hours a day. The substrate should be moistened as it dries, and the leaves should be opened and ventilated. Under these conditions, they take root much earlier than in water.

Propagation of saintpaulia with part of a leaf

Violet can be grown not only from a whole leaf blade, but even from a leaf fragment. To do this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting material. The leaf is cut in half and the central vein is removed. Then it is cut into fragments having at least one vein.

Planting material is dried for 15-20 minutes to dry the sections. Then the leaf fragments are planted on the ground. They should not be buried. Pieces that are not dug in, but simply in close contact with moist soil, take root best of all. Sticks are used to fix them.

The planted parts of the leaf are covered with glass jars. The substrate is moistened as it dries.

The temperature for rooting is maintained at least 22ºС. Under these conditions, a lot of young plants can be obtained from one leaf, since a baby grows from each vein.

Practice shows that leaf pieces are best rooted not in the soil mixture, but in pure sphagnum moss. This material is very moisture-absorbing and has bactericidal properties. When rooted in it, planting material rots extremely rarely, takes root well and forms babies.

Violets are propagated by fragments of the leaf only by experienced flower growers, since any mistake leads to decay or drying of the planting material. But sometimes this method of reproduction is the only possible one.

This happens if a valuable violet leaf begins to disappear. Then all its diseased parts are removed, the leaf is cut into fragments and rooted.

Division of the violet bush

All varieties of violets are propagated in this way, even those that lose their varietal characteristics when propagated by leaves. Usually chimeras are propagated in this way. When grown from leaf cuttings, young plants often lose their unique coloration.

The division of the bush can be carried out during the spring transplantation of a very overgrown plant with many shoots.

Separate the shoots that grow from the base of the bush and already have their roots. Such sockets are carefully cut off so that a sufficient number of roots separate with them.

The peduncle is cut above the leaf and 1.5-2 cm lower. Then it is rooted in water or in sphagnum and planted in the ground to such a depth that the leaf is on the surface.

Sowing Saintpaulia seeds

Varietal seeds for indoor violets can be purchased at flower shops or garden centers. Sometimes you can get them at home.

During flowering, violet flowers can be pollinated, and sometimes they themselves are pollinated if pollen from a neighboring flower falls on the pistil. After that, a box with seeds is formed, but the seeds ripen within 6 months, and in some cases even longer.

Before you grow a violet from seeds, you need to prepare everything you need for seedlings. Violets seeds are very small, each box contains from 100 to 300 pieces.

Seeds are sown in late March or early April. They are not sprinkled with soil, but only pressed down to the ground. Watered with a moisture sprayer.

The temperature during germination must be maintained at least 22ºС. The container is covered with glass, but regularly ventilated to avoid the growth of fungi. Under such conditions, the seeds germinate in 2 weeks.

Seedlings dive 3 times as they grow. During the third pick, they are planted in separate pots. Reproduction of violet seeds is not an easy task.

soil for violets

The substrate for violets should be nutritious and at the same time loose and breathable. You should also take care of the sterility of the soil mixture, as violets are susceptible to various fungal infections and rot easily.

Soil for violets is sold in flower shops in assortment. Each potting mix manufacturer provides customers with substrates for these popular indoor plants. For sterilization of purchased soils, heating or freezing at low temperatures is used.

The soil for violets is difficult to prepare on your own. But if you really want to, you can try. The soil for violets should include:

• Leaf ground from under a birch or linden - 2 parts;
• Horse coarse-fiber peat - 1 part.

Humus is added to the resulting mixture - 1/10 of the total volume.

Perlite and vermiculite are used to loosen the soil. They are mixed in equal parts and add 1-2 cups per 1 bucket of soil mixture.

Ready soil for violets must be steamed. This procedure destroys pest eggs, harmful bacteria and fungi.

Caring for violets after breeding

Violet babies appear at the base of the leaf stalk. If the leaf was rooted in the ground and was covered from above glass jar, it is gradually opened. While the children are too small, they are not touched, but only moisten the soil as it dries. Young plants need diffused light, the sun's rays can burn them.

As soon as the young sockets reach a diameter of 5 cm, they are seated in separate pots.

By this time rooted old sheet is already drying up. For miniature varieties, the diameter of the rosette for transplanting can be 2-3 cm. Babies ready for transplantation should have 2-3 pairs of leaves. If there are fewer, it is likely that young plant still has a very weak root system.

When transplanting, it is necessary to prepare several plastic pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. Drainage is laid on the bottom, and 1-2 cm of soil for violets is poured on top. Young rosettes are removed from the pot and carefully separated. Each baby should have well-developed roots. They are planted in a new pot, sprinkling the roots with soil on top. The earth in the pot is slightly compacted.

If some children have very weak roots, they are also planted in new pots and covered with glass jars on top. In conditions of high humidity, young rosettes take root quickly. When they go up, the banks can be removed. If the leaf gave only one baby, it is transplanted into a larger pot by transshipment.

After transplanting, young sockets must be watered. Further, they need to be looked after as adult plants. After the violet grows 5-6 large adult leaves, the old small leaves can be carefully cut off.

The first 2-3 months after transplantation, the sockets are not fed. Then you should start feeding with liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Usually young violets, rooted in late spring, begin to bloom in early autumn.

Now you know how to propagate violets at home correctly. You can read about the basic care of Saintpaulias here.

dom-florista.ru

How to breed new varieties of violets yourself

How to breed new varieties of violets to please a girl on her birthday) Who has already done this or who knows who did it, please throw pictures in the comments)

The work of a breeder in breeding a new variety of violets requires great patience, experience and knowledge from him. The process of how to withdraw new variety violets have been described and studied for more than one millennium. Its principle is based on the repeated process of crossing different varieties of violets and requires years of painstaking work. To breed a new variety of violets, you must first acquire a solid basic knowledge of growing different varieties of violets and be able to grow healthy flowers of various varieties. Then you need to learn how to properly pollinate them. In order to properly pollinate a violet flower, you need to apply pollen to the pistil, which is borrowed from the yellow anthers of the plant. The anther is opened in advance with a sterile needle. Pollen is ready for pollination after maturation, 5-6 days after the flower opens. After maturation, it remains active for three months. The maturation of the pistil can be determined by the characteristic drop of liquid that has come out, thanks to which the pollen is well attached to the surface of the pistil. After pollination, the amniotic ovary will begin to form a capsule in which, as it matures, small dust-like seeds are formed that have a dark brown color. After 5-7 months, when the seeds reach their maturity, the stalk will wither and the box can be easily separated from the plant. The ripe box must be removed from the plant, dried for several days and opened with a needle. Seeds are placed in paper bags and stored in a dry and dark place. Seeds can be sown 2-3 weeks after ripening, although depending on the variety, they can remain viable for six months or more. Transferring the characteristics of parental pairs to a new species of violet is extremely difficult. For example, if you cross a purple and pink violet, you can teach offspring with blue and purple shades of flowers. If you cross a violet with simple flowers and a terry, the probability of getting offspring with simple flowers is extremely high. During repeated pollination, new, previously uncreated varieties can be bred. But it will take time to grow a new variety, and more than one year.

Well, maybe for a girl's 50th birthday... It's VERY DIFFICULT AND VERY LONG. If your girlfriend loves violets and collects them, then go to any site dedicated to the trade in varietal violets and order planting material for cool varietal violets, get it in the mail and hand it to the girl. You can open the catalog and ask the girl to choose the violets that she liked. The key here is to stop...

This is a very long and painstaking business, if you start now, maybe in five years you will please her with a new variety. But this is if you are already an experienced grower and growing violets from seeds is not a problem for you.

Buy ready-made, at the exhibition. I think your girlfriend will be happy with any violet if there is none in her collection

indoor-plants-tips.ru

How violets breed at home - K-dou18.ru

Also, during the laying of buds, you can fertilize with fertilizer containing phosphorus, and for young plants - with large quantity nitrogen. Fertilizer for violets can be applied no more than once a month, alternating different types.

For good growth only one plant can “live” in a pot, therefore, when growing, extra sockets must be planted, but with care so as not to touch the roots. This makes it possible to get another plant without spending extra money.

There are several ways in which the uzambar violet reproduces. Care at home will make it quite easy to prepare planting material for its reproduction and even the cultivation of new varieties:

• pieces of leaves;
• sockets or stepchildren;
• seeds (the longest process).

The best time for this is spring and summer, because in winter the plant is at rest and requires specific conditions for care.

Propagation by cuttings (leaves)

The easiest way to grow many plants of the Uzambar violet species at home is to propagate by cuttings. For this, the largest leaves are used, which must be cut with a very sharp knife at a slight angle (so as not to crush the stem).

There are 2 ways to root leaves:

• in the water, where a small piece of the leaf stem falls, the germination of the roots usually takes 10-14 days (the water must be added little by little, maintaining the same level);
• in special soil (peat mixture) at a depth sufficient to hold the leaf in a standing position at a slight angle, while the most important point is to maintain a microclimate above the ground using a plastic bag, can or cut piece plastic bottle, the soil must be maintained with sufficient moisture, the mini-greenhouse is removed after the rooting of the cutting.



Reproduction by rosettes

When the adult violet has already grown well, then daughter rosettes (stepchildren) begin to appear next to it, which will also help to propagate this plant. To plant a socket, you need to wait until it grows to a minimum of 5 cm in height. After that, it is very carefully separated from the main stem, trying not to harm the roots.

It is better to plant in the same soil, after rooting, after a month, the violet will release fresh young leaves and the formation of buds will begin.



Varieties and varieties of Saintpaulia

Varieties of uzambara violets are a great variety of different colors and shapes of leaves that were bred by professional biologists on purpose or even by amateurs by accident. Moreover, when propagated by cuttings, any grower can grow a completely new variety (degenerate varieties).

Saintpaulia varieties are divided into several groups according to the size of the rosette, the variety of flowers and the shape of the leaves.

So, varieties with a monochromatic color or with a border naturally inherit the traits of their parents during the leaf propagation method, and the border can appear only during the second flowering.

Fantasy species (decorated with spots, stripes, dots) are recommended to be propagated by peduncles or with the help of stepchildren, then they inherit this color. Violets-“chimeras” are propagated in the same way, having a pattern on flowers in the form of rays.

Ampel varieties with a long stem and growing at several points are distinguished by a large number of flowers and many rosettes.

Wasp-type varieties are one of the new and original types of violets, in which the flower has 2 short upper petals and 3 lower ones, longer and narrower, forming an exotic appearance.



One of the most popular varieties now - the blue violet, bred in Russia, has large, up to 10 cm, bright blue flowers, and the plant itself is strongly branched and up to 40 cm high. There are several such varieties of violets that have different flower shapes:

• Blue fog - pale blue fluffy balls with wavy edges.
• Blue Danube - has many blue flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
• Blue dragon - pale blue stars with a blue center, a wide red border with a white-golden edge, flowers up to 6 cm in size.
• Blue Lagoon - bright blue violet with a blue spot and a red flounce around the edge.



Diseases and treatment of Saintpaulia

Violets are very whimsical plants that require a certain humidity of air and soil, a lot of light, but not direct sunlight, certain care and feeding. But even when all these conditions are met, it happens that the plant gets sick.

The main task in such a situation is to learn how to determine the cause of the disease and distinguish between infectious diseases of the uzambar violet and non-infectious, i.e., caused by a lack of some useful substances or improper conditions of detention.

One of the common problems is the yellowing of the leaves of the plant, most often caused by improper soil acidity, too bright sun or strong shading.



Infectious diseases of violets:

• Fusarium (rosette rotting) - the causative agent is the Fusarium fungus, which penetrates young roots under the wrong conditions (heavy soil, regular water overflow, especially cold, a very large pot). Due to the disease, the petioles of the leaves turn brown and begin to fall off. To prevent the appearance of this fungus, it is recommended to water the plant every 2 months with a solution of foundationol. For treatment, violets should be treated with fungicides, after removing dried or rotten stems and leaves.
• Powdery mildew - appears as a whitish coating on all surface parts, spreads with a lack of lighting, improper humidity, dust or dirt in the air. The reason may also be a lack (potassium and phosphorus) or an excess of trace elements (nitrogen). For treatment, you can use spraying with foundationazole or benlat (usually 1 time is enough, but can be repeated if necessary). To not get sick powdery mildew uzambara violet, home care for it should be as follows: for prevention, wipe the leaves with wet wipes, ventilate the room and prevent excess moisture in the pot;



• Late blight - rotting of the root neck of violets and the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which is caused by a fungus that penetrates through the roots or wounds on the stems. The danger of late blight is that fungal spores settle in the soil, and therefore the only way out is to destroy the plant and sterilize the pot. To prevent the occurrence of this unpleasant disease, superphosphate should be added to the soil and the humidity in the room should not be higher than 60%;
• Gray rot, which is caused by the fungus botrytis, manifests itself as a gray-brown bloom on all upper parts of the plant, and then rotting and death of the violet. The fungus often enters with contaminated soil, therefore, before planting each plant, it is recommended to freeze the soil in a freezer, and then water it with a solution of manganese. All diseased parts of the violet must be destroyed, and the plant should be treated with fungicides. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to prevent excessive watering and a sharp drop in temperature in the room.

Violets pests

The most common pests that affect saintpaulias:

• worms - affect leaves and young flower stalks, deforming them and causing red spots to appear; treatment with Actellik or Fitoverm helps against them;
• aphids are usually brought into the house from fresh flowers, insects eat flower buds, using plant sap as food; to get rid of aphids, you must use "Moskpilan" or "Aktellik";
• ticks (several species) - spoil young leaves, to combat them, plants are treated with Akarin, Fitoverm, etc.



Uzambara violet, or saintpaulia, is a very beautiful and diverse ornamental plant in terms of colors and varieties, which is successfully grown on windowsills by many amateurs and professionals of decorative floriculture.

Propagation of violets by leaf

Violet is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant, which has more than five hundred varieties that differ in color, shape and size of leaves and flowers. Since it blooms in early spring, its flowering seems to mark the end of winter. It is believed that the birthplace of violets is Australia.

Violet: care and reproduction at home

This flower can be grown in a greenhouse or at home. Violet reaches a height of 30 cm and is characterized by active growth.

Caring for flowers is quite simple and does not take much time. Violets love good lighting, but do not place them in direct sunlight. The best side for growing will be the north, in extreme cases - the east or west.

In order to ensure uniform growth and development of the violet from all sides, it is periodically necessary to turn it in different directions in relation to the light.

It is advisable to add coarse sand and peat moss to the ground with a pot. Is it necessary to prepare drainage in advance so that it takes at least? pot.

Violet loves water, so the soil in the pot should be constantly moist. However, do not pour too much water, otherwise the roots may begin to rot.

Violet needs to be repotted once a year. However, do not take a larger pot. It is enough to change the earth and plant the plant in the same pot.

How to propagate violet leaves?

Reproduction of violets is carried out by leaves or their fragments, that is, part of the leaf. Leaf rooting can be carried out in water or soil.

Rooting a whole leaf in water

• We pinch off a leaf with a cutting from a bush at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the petiole should be no more than 4 cm.
• . Let the cutting area dry for 15 minutes.
• For rooting in water, a dark-colored glass container is best suited. You can take medicine bottles. Little water is needed. Pour the liquid to a level of no more than 1.5 cm from the day of the container.
• We create greenhouse conditions for the sheet, covering it with a plastic container.



Rooting a whole leaf in the ground

Rooting a leaf fragment in water or soil

If “tight” varieties of violets are used in the growing process, then babies may appear no earlier than four to six months from the moment of planting. In this case, you can stimulate faster growth of children if you intentionally damage the leaf plate. With a sharp knife, you need to cut off one third or one quarter of the leaf. The cut can be made obliquely by cutting a triangle along the veins, or in a straight line, as shown in the photo below.

The technique for planting a part of a leaf is the same as for the whole.

If you follow the rules for the care and reproduction of violets at home, you will be pleased with luxurious hats of beautiful flowers.

Reproduction of violets at home

There are several ways to propagate indoor violets and they cannot be unambiguously called simple or complex, as well as the process of their reproduction as a whole. Violets are whimsical and delicate plants, but those who grow for a long time, confidently say that with experience it becomes absolutely simple. What are the subtleties, what are the features, and which method gives the highest probability of rooting a new plant, we will describe further.

There are vegetative methods of reproduction: by a leaf, a whole or part of it and a peduncle, or by sowing seeds. Each has its pros and cons, so that everyone understands how it will be easier for him, we will describe each method in detail.

Violet leaf propagation

Propagation of violets by division of a leaf or a whole leaf is the most common and in a simple way. Everything here is primitive and simple: a healthy leaf is cut off or neatly torn off from the mother plant and planted in the ground. You can wait for the roots to grow in the water and only after that, knowing for sure that there are already roots, plant them in the ground. This is already individual for everyone. For germination in the store, a special soil for violets is selected (it may also be called "for saintpaulias"). If germination took place in water, then rooted cuttings are planted in the soil with great care, since the root is very fragile and sensitive.

If it is not possible to root a whole sheet, or if you want to get several rosettes from one leaflet, then there are options for dividing the sheet. The upper part is cut off from it, but not horizontally, but along the veins (a triangle is cut off) and this part is planted to form rosettes.

It is possible to divide the entire sheet into several segments along the veins and plant them all in a kind of greenhouse, then much more borings will be created. This, of course, is a somewhat jeweler's work that requires accuracy, skills and a very sharp tool (the use of which also requires accuracy and skill), but with a strong desire it is worth a try. The first time may not work out, but with each subsequent everything will become much easier.

It is worth noting that not all violets undergo this method of reproduction. The common and beloved “violetcomans” of Saintpaulia reproduce very well with this method, but it is not suitable for chimeras, varietal characteristics are not transmitted when the leaf is separated.

Propagation of violets by peduncles

We immediately warn you that not all flower stalks are suitable for propagation, so they should first be carefully examined, and then it should be determined whether to use it in this way, or still cut off the leaf. So, if there are small leaves on the peduncle slightly below the flowers, then it can become the basis for a new violet.

Here, again, there are two options: you can simply bend such a peduncle to the ground, giving it the opportunity to grow roots in this way, or carefully cut it off and root it like a leaf. When choosing an option, you should be guided by how the peduncle is located and whether bending the plant does not injure.

When propagating, therefore, varietal characteristics are always transmitted, which is a plus, but there are two minuses. Firstly, flower stalks with leaves are rare, and secondly, not everyone wants to deprive their beauty of his main decoration - flowers.

Reproduction of violet seeds

Propagation of violets by seeds is also practiced, but not too often, and there are two good reasons for this. The first is that this process is lengthy, painstaking and unreliable, and the second is that when sowing seeds, the original plant variety is not preserved, that is, the violet reproduces, but not the same. The method is used mainly just for breeding new varieties.

The method of sowing seeds, as you can already understand, is used by breeders. To prepare enthusiasts for future results, we note that no more than 1-3% of newly bred plants will continue to grow after the first flowering, all the rest will become unusable and thrown out. In addition, germinated sprouts will require constant supervision, control and care, therefore, at home, this method is not considered appropriate and generally real, therefore we recommend choosing any method. vegetative propagation violets.

Vegetative propagation of violets

The article provided two options for vegetative propagation of violets: a peduncle and a leaf or part of it. They are used most often and give good results. There is a third option - reproduction by side rosettes, children.

Children grow up quite often. This may be caused by injury to the plant, removal of the stem of an adult plant, or it may be a species feature. Babies can grow in the axils of the leaves or on the stem, but even so, and so they are quite easy to separate. The separation of children is generally recommended so that they do not interfere with the development and growth of the main plant. The unequivocal advantage of this method of reproduction is the absolute repetition of species characteristics and simplicity, especially since the children take root quite quickly.

How to grow a violet from a leaf, video

And finally, a useful video and growing violets from a leaf.

How to propagate violet leaves at home?

Violet leaf propagation at home is possible. However, there are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account. There are certain requirements for choosing a seedling, and there are also rules for its primary processing. In order for the leaf to begin to take root, you need to properly plant it in soil or water. In the first case, one should not forget about the irrigation regime, so that the plant will take root soon, and about the harm that bacteria can cause to seedlings.

Violet leaf propagation takes place in several stages. They consist of:

The best time The year for plant propagation by leaf is spring and summer, since during this period there is enough light and heat. But if breeding a plant with a leaf is the only way to save a rare variety, then an experienced grower will be able to carry out his plan in the rest of the year. To do this, create greenhouse conditions. The temperature in the room should be at the level of + 22 ... + 26 ° C, the humidity of the air is considered optimal at 50-60%.

Before you start transplanting a plant, you need to study the planting material. Choose juicy, dark green sheets without defects. Tips for choosing material for transplanting a flower:

k-dou18.ru

How to propagate violet leaf at home

Uzambara violets are attractive for home maintenance with their long flowering, variety of varieties, unpretentiousness and the possibility of easy reproduction. These flowers do not need a lot of space on the windowsill, sometimes they are even kept on racks next to the window, illuminated with fluorescent lamps. Saintpaulias are considered a symbol home comfort, they are in almost every apartment. Let's talk about how you can propagate these delicate plants with just one leaf.

Description of the uzambar violet (photo)

Violet belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. This plant was first discovered in East Africa. Saintpaulia is classified as a herbaceous plant with a very short stem and a lush rosette of leaves. The leaves are most often heart-shaped, they can be rounded and more elongated. The upper side of the leaf has pubescence, its color can be different shades of green. The lower part of the leaves is lighter, greenish or purple. The leaves look quilted due to pronounced veins.

On one peduncle, from 3 to 7 medium-sized flowers are formed. With the full flowering of an adult rosette, up to 100 flowers can be present on a violet at the same time. At good conditions Saintpaulia content bloom continuously 8-9 months a year. Nearly 1,200 new hybrid varieties have been registered so far. Their difference can be seen both in the size of the leaf rosette and in the shape and color of the flowers.

Violets are bred with simple, semi-double and double inflorescences. Violets-chimeras are gaining more and more popularity. Their gene structure is changed in such a way that the synthesis of pigments occurs differently in different parts of the petals and the color is very unusual. Unfortunately, the varietal characteristics of such plants are lost during leaf propagation, remaining only in stepchildren.

Violet leaf propagation correctly (step by step)

The rooting ability is strongly influenced by the quality of the planting material. If you decide to propagate the violet with a leaf, choose it from the middle layers of the leaf rosette. The lower old leaves are already weaker and have less vitality. Their proximity to the ground increases the risk of pathogenic microflora and fungal spores on them. And if you cut a leaf from the top of the outlet, it is easy to damage the growth point, in which case the plant will stop developing.

On a note! The leaf selected for propagation must be fully formed, have good turgor and sufficient size.

If you got a leaf, received by mail or brought by your friends, which managed to become slightly lethargic, soaking in warm boiled water with the addition of a few crystals of potassium permanganate will help. It is advisable to hold it in solution for about 2 hours, this will restore elasticity and at the same time kill the pathogenic flora.

After that, the sheet must be blotted with a napkin and cut off the edge of the handle with a sharp knife so that its length is 3-4 cm. The cut can be made either straight or at an angle of 45 degrees. Then proceed to the process of rooting, which can be done in two ways: in water and in the substrate.

Rooting in water

The “water” method is more suitable for inexperienced flower growers, since with this method of rooting it is easy to observe the process of root growth and the condition of the cutting. It is advisable to use boiled or filtered water so that it does not spoil quickly. It is better to use dishes from dark glass. For rooting in water you need:

• Thoroughly wash and rinse the cup for the leaf cutting with boiling water and fill it with water.
• Place the sheet in a container so that the lower part of the petiole is immersed in water by 1-2 cm. You can keep it in the required position with a lid or a sheet of thick paper with a hole. The petiole should not touch the walls of the glass.
• Throw a pill into the water activated carbon or small charcoal to prevent rotting processes.
• After that, monitor the water level, constantly topping it up to the original level.
• When the roots reach a length of 1-2 cm, plant a leaf of violet in the substrate.

If the process goes as it should, then the appearance of the roots can be seen in 2-4 weeks. Sometimes it happens that the end of the leaf petiole still rots. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the affected tissue to a healthy place and put the leaf back into the rooting cup. In this case, the dishes are treated with an antiseptic, and then fresh water is poured.

Attention! Some lovers of violets with the "water" rooting method leave the leaf in the water until a young rosette appears. We do not recommend doing this, as in this case the shoots may be weakened, which will worsen their further development.

When planting a leaf with roots in the soil, keep in mind that you can not deepen it much, otherwise it will be more difficult for the outlet to break through. The pot for planting is 1/3 filled with expanded clay, on top of which a loose soil mixture is laid. The planted leaf is covered with a glass jar, after moistening the substrate. The jar is lifted daily for 5-10 minutes for ventilation, this is necessary. They remove the shelter after 2-3 weeks when a young outlet appears.

How to propagate a violet leaf in water: video

Rooting in the substrate

If a leaf cutting is planted immediately in the ground, rooting will occur even faster than in water. It is better to resort to this method if the leaf is not quite mature or, on the contrary, is old, having lost turgor. When planting in the ground, the petiole of the leaf is cut a little shorter, up to 1.5 centimeters. It is enough to take a pot quite small, 5 cm in diameter. It must have a drainage hole. A drainage layer is poured to the bottom, and then soil, consisting of fertile soil and perlite. Perlite will help retain moisture in a small amount of soil and at the same time facilitate air access to the roots.

Helpful advice! For an antibacterial effect, sphagnum can be added to the composition of the substrate.

• Before planting, the substrate should be slightly moistened.
• Leaf cuttings of miniature hybrids are deepened by 0.5 cm, and standard cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
• If you have a lot of planting material, you can plant several leaves in one cup at once.
• In order not to get confused in the varieties, markings are glued on the outside.
• After planting, cover the leaf with a film or jar, creating a greenhouse. This will provide increased humidity inside and protect the seedling from drafts. Periodically moisten the earth and ventilate.

Some flower growers share their experience of planting leaf cuttings in peat tablets. They claim that, due to the presence of nutrients, roots and young rosettes form very quickly with this method of planting. Warmth and light are important for successful rooting in the substrate. Daylight hours should be at least 12 hours, and the temperature in the room should be 22-26 degrees.

Rooting a violet leaf cutting in a substrate: video

violet care

In order for violets to remain healthy and bloom for a long time, they need to create comfortable conditions by providing the necessary temperature, lighting, humidity, timely feeding and transplanting. Let's dwell on these important points.

Temperature and lighting

Violets are thermophilic. Minimum temperature their content should not fall below 18 degrees, the optimal indicators are 20-24 degrees Celsius. Plants must be protected from drafts. If window sills are too cold in winter, place the violet pots on insulating stands to keep the roots cool.

Saintpaulias need bright and diffused lighting, without direct hits. sun rays. In summer, it is better to place them on the northern and eastern windows, and in winter move them to the southern and western window sills. On very sunny days, it is necessary to organize shading on the windows; in winter, the plants, on the contrary, illuminate. So that the socket does not bend, it is periodically turned to the light on the other side. It is possible to grow violets in completely artificial light, this does not affect their growth in any way. For this, fluorescent lamps are quite suitable.

Humidity and watering

Violets do not like dry air. Especially flowers suffer from it during the period when central heating is turned on. At the same time, it is impossible to spray the leaves due to the fact that they are pubescent. The villi can retain water, as a result of which rot will develop on the leaves. To humidify the air, it is advisable to use special humidifiers or place water containers on the windowsill.

Violets can be watered from above from a syringe or a watering can with a narrow spout, such watering is called drip. In this case, you need to be careful with the amount of water and make sure that it does not fall on the leaves. If you find it difficult to regulate watering in this way, water the saintpaulias through the pan.

Clean, settled water is poured there, the soil is allowed to soak with moisture, after which the remaining water is drained. This method is considered safer in terms of waterlogging. Some use wick watering, but it is not suitable for all varieties and has several disadvantages. This method is best used when necessary, for example, while leaving on vacation or a business trip.

Top dressing and transplants

For top dressing, you can use superphosphate granules, which are laid when transplanted into the soil. This supply of violets will last for a while. After 1-2 months, you can begin to make weekly complex and organic fertilizers, alternating them with each other. Organics are well absorbed only by adult and healthy specimens. Complex fertilizer is diluted in water according to the instructions and watered with a solution of moistened soil.

AT large pots violet should not be planted, otherwise you may not wait for flowering. The new pot should be 2 cm larger than the old one in diameter. Better if it is made of plastic. You can plant a violet in the same container. In this case, they take it out of the pot, cut off the old and dead roots, shake off the old soil, and then plant the flower in place, adding some fresh earth. It is better to rinse the pot well inside with a brush to disinfect it and remove fungal spores.

As a primer, you can take special soil for Saintpaulia, adding a little perlite and vermiculite to it.

Before landing on the bottom, it is necessary to lay a drainage layer of expanded clay. The soil should be moist, but not damp. Plant the plant so that the leaf socket does not touch the ground. The first watering is carried out two days after transplantation.

Flower growers are advised to start breeding violets with simpler varieties, capricious hybrids require experience in keeping. If you provide a plant ideal conditions, it will not create any problems for you. As you gain experience, you will make fewer and fewer mistakes, learn to "understand" your flower. After that, it will be possible to start keeping and propagating more exotic varieties.

Source

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Some growers sleep and see how to breed a new variety, and what to cross to get a hybrid form that strikes the imagination in size, color and taste ... I want to disappoint those who want to try on Michurin's laurels. Selection is a long process.

If time doesn't scare you, be patient! You will need the following gentlemen's kit:

• at least five years to breed one variety;
• decent piece of land;
• the ability to endure failure;
• receive positive emotions from the lesson.

It is useful to familiarize yourself with the professional literature. This may be a textbook on viticulture by the authorship of Negrul, and "Genetics and selection of the vine" by Ayvazyan P.K. and Dokuchaeva E.N.

You also need to turn your vineyard into an impregnable fortress, otherwise the fruits of your combinations may go to banal thieves who will sell bunches on the market, and you will lose all the results of your work. Such cases are not just unsettling, they leave a bitter aftertaste for a long time.

And still it is necessary to put only feasible tasks. Breeding frost-resistant grapes with good performance whole scientific institutes are engaged, and the results are still modest.

An amateur breeder cannot handle such tasks. The probability of getting a variety with frost resistance -30...-32°C from offspring with frost resistance -23 ... -25 ° С is the same as hitting the jackpot in the lottery. The same can be said about high resistance to diseases.

Despite these limitations, the field of activity of enthusiasts is very extensive. You can improve the color of the bunches, the shape of the berries, the size, the taste, the structure, the ripening time, the vigor of the growth, the yield, the sex of the flower, the seedlessness… So that's enough work.

Never cross pairs at random. Use the “duet” rule: if you plan to breed a large-berry variety with a given color of clusters, then choose both parental forms with a given color. Use this rule when setting a selection problem. The probability of getting a bisexual variety is different: when crossing bisexual varieties, the probability is 3 to 1. That is, three seedlings will be bisexual, and one will be unisexual. Previously, all same-sex forms were rejected. But if we do this now, then we would be left without Talisman, Flora, Flamingo, Victoria, Sofia, Gourmets ... So do not rush to reject hybrid forms, maybe they will have other advantages. In industrial selection, out of a hundred seedlings, only one or two with the desired properties were selected, the rest were rejected. In amateur breeding, 20-30 seedlings are considered sufficient.

And the last. It has been noted that the earlier the maturation period of the mother form, the worse the germination of hybrid seeds. The lowest germination in super-early varieties is only 1-1.5%. And in maternal forms with early maturation - 10-25%. The best germination is in seeds from late mother bushes.

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"I love roses very much and dream of breeding my own variety. Unfortunately, I am a beginner grower, I have no selection experience. Could you please tell me how to breed a new variety?"

There are several ways to get a new variety. The most accessible and most common is artificial cross-pollination (pollen from the stamens of one or more varieties is transferred to the pistils of another). In this way, the largest number of modern varieties has been bred.

The breeder always sets himself a specific goal: to create a new variety with the desired characteristics - color, aroma, doubleness, flower shape. Accordingly, by selecting parental pairs according to the shape of the flower, color, smell, one can to some extent control the creation of a new rose.

Not all traits are equally passed on to offspring. Red color tends to be inherited more persistently than yellow or white. Sometimes the desired color, doubleness or flower shape is not obtained in the first combination, then it is worth repeating the same crossing the next year.

Hybridization begins with the collection of pollen. It is collected and stored for a certain time, since the anthers of roses ripen before the pistils.

This operation is started when the buds are ready to open, but have not yet opened. In clear sunny weather, in the first half of the day, the anthers are plucked with tweezers and collected in a glass container, labeled, noting the rose variety and the date of pollen collection. Then the anthers are scattered on paper in a thin layer and dried at room temperature.

You can do it differently: cut the buds, remove the petals from them and leave them in this form until the pollen ripens. When shaking the anther, it easily spills onto the paper. Then it is collected in a test tube and stored until pollination. It is best to store pollen in the refrigerator at 2-5°C.

The hybridization process also includes castration of the flower. To avoid self-pollination, anthers are removed from the flowers (while they have not yet opened). There are several ways of castration: removal of anthers; removal of anthers with stamens; removal of anthers with stamens and petals.

Castration is started a few days before the flowers bloom. Premature castration with the removal of petals in a state of dense bud, when the anthers are not quite yellow, adversely affects the vital activity of the flower. It is carried out when the buds become loose. No more than two buds are castrated on a bush, the rest are cut off. Then the fruits are better tied and develop.

First, with a scalpel or a sharp knife, carefully cut the bud in a circle on the border with the sepals, and then cut it to the top. Then the cut part of the bud is separated, the petals are carefully bent and the anthers are plucked with tweezers. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the pistils, as this can lead to the death of the flower.

After castration, in order to avoid unwanted pollination by insects, an insulator (parchment or gauze) is applied to the flower.

Pollination is started when a sticky liquid and a characteristic sheen appear on loose pistils. This usually happens on the 2-3rd day after castration. Before pollination, the insulator is removed from the castrated flowers, pollen is applied to the stigma with a brush or rubber band and rubbed lightly (a separate brush or rubber band is needed for pollen of each variety). Then caps are put on the flowers again. For more reliable results, pollination should be repeated the next day, especially if it rained after.

Pollination of roses is best done during the first flowering period. Data for each pollination should be recorded. This is very important for holding the hybrid into a variety. Pollination results should be checked periodically.

After 12-15 days, parchment or cellophane insulators are changed to gauze. Practice has proven that under a gauze cap, the fruits ripen and are better preserved. The fruits are harvested when they begin to turn brown. Overripe seeds (nuts) have a very dense upper cover, so they germinate for a very long time, and sometimes only after a year, which delays the selection process of a new variety.

The period of fruit development from pollination to ripening is 70 - 100 days, in some varieties of roses - more than 100 days.

After harvesting the fruits, the seeds are cleaned of pulp and stratified (mixed in boxes with sand), rubbed well in the hands, and then placed in the basement for 10-12 days, where the temperature is 5-8 ° C. After that, the seeds with sand are sown in the ground. You can sow them in boxes or pots and place them in a greenhouse.

The area where hybrid seeds are sown is well watered and mulched. If they are sown in autumn, in September, seedlings appear the next year in April-May. When the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, they swoop down.

Young plants require careful care. The first flowering is allowed only in the second half of summer. During flowering, the best promising hybrid roses are selected for propagation. Propagated by budding. The final selection is carried out on the 3rd-4th year, when the qualities of hybrid plants are fully manifested.

The best varieties for breeding: Gloria Dei, Cordes Sondermeldung, Crimson Glory, Geheimrat Duisberg, Spect Yellow, Frau Karl Drushki, Charlotte Armstrong.

Topic 15: General tricks flower breeding

Questions:

1. Breeding of new forms and varieties of ornamental plants

2. Restructuring the nature of plants

3. Selection of parent pairs

4. Hybridization

Man began to develop new forms of cultivated plants (selection) thousands of years ago. But the selection was very slow. Only Ch. Darwin's theory of the origin of species provided a scientific basis for the development of new varieties of plants and breeds of domestic animals. Ch. Darwin proved that all living beings were formed on our planet in a natural way, in the process of development (evolution).

He gave an explanation of how, in the process of evolution, adaptability to environmental conditions and expediency in structure arise in living beings. C. Darwin noted that as a result of natural selection, only such creatures survive and leave behind offspring in which the changes are of the most useful adaptive nature. Creatures that are less adapted, and even more so with changes that are harmful to them, perish.

Natural selection, or the survival of the fittest organisms, and leads to the emergence of new, more advanced forms and species. In his works, Charles Darwin showed that the process of the emergence of new species, which constantly but extremely slowly occurs in nature, can be significantly accelerated with the help of artificial selection.

With artificial selection, among a large number of plants or animals, only those individuals that have the traits that a person needs are selected for further reproduction.

During the subsequent reproduction of these selected specimens, a large number of individuals are again obtained and the selection of forms that deviate most in the desired direction is again carried out.

Ch. Darwin's doctrine of variability and artificial selection formed the basis of all subsequent work in the field of selection. To speed up selection, they use special techniques, such as sexual and vegetative hybridization; the purpose of these techniques is to enrich heredity, increase variability and give plants the necessary properties.

A new stage in the development of breeding science is associated with the name of the great nature changer I. V. Michurin. Proceeding from a correct understanding of the laws of living nature, having understood the essence of the individual development of a plant organism, I. V. Michurin established that new properties and signs of plants are acquired by them under the influence of environmental conditions and are inherited. IV Michurin showed that by changing the conditions for the existence of plant organisms, man alters their nature and heredity.

I. V. Michurin, creatively developing Darwinism as a doctrine of the development of living nature, raised it to a new, higher level, revealed the causes that cause variability, developed new, perfect breeding methods, and indicated ways to control the development of organisms.

I. V. Michurin and his follower Academician T. D. Lysenko correctly understood such phenomena as the unity of the organism and the environment, as well as the role of metabolism as the main process of life. The works of I. V. Michurin and T. D. Lysenko make it possible to consciously and purposefully change the nature of plants. The solution of this problem is connected with overcoming the conservatism of heredity. This is achieved by affecting the plant by changing environmental conditions at certain stages of its development, by sexual and vegetative hybridization, and by other methods.

Simultaneously with I. V. Michurin, the American breeder L. Burbank worked in the other hemisphere of the globe. Based on the teachings of Ch. Darwin, he managed to achieve great success. He received a thornless cactus with a very high yield of juicy plates edible for livestock, brought out a stoneless plum, wonderful varieties of nut and fruit trees.

L. Burbank also achieved significant success in breeding new varieties of ornamental plants. You can name such varieties bred by him as Shasta chamomile, which has a flower with a diameter of 10-17.5 cm of dazzling whiteness, fragrant calla lilies, verbena with the smell of jasmine. An amazing carnation that has snow-white flowers in the morning and changes color to bright pink during the day and dark crimson in the evening. Burbank worked with roses, gladioli, dahlias, lilies, palms, some vines, and other plants.

IV Michurin also obtained not only new forms and varieties of fruit and berry plants, but also many new forms and varieties of ornamental plants (roses, lilies, etc.). For example, he brought out only 24 names of roses. I. V. Michurin's merit lies in the fact that his theory became the basis for further work on selection, made a new contribution to the development of an advanced materialistic science of life.

Michurin belongs to the category of happy figures. Happy because the results of his work will live on for centuries.

The work of I. V. Michurin is continued by botanical gardens and other scientific institutions in Russia, as well as a whole galaxy of his followers - breeders-originators involved in the development of new forms of ornamental plants.

Russian breeders have obtained a large number of new varieties and forms of flower and ornamental plants adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of different zones of the country.

Not so long ago, plants with such names as Baron von Zolimacher, Prince of Wales, Countess von Donnersmarck and the like prevailed in parks, gardens, squares.

The abnormality of this situation was noted by I. V. Michurin, who wrote: “It is a shame to think that all the best can be obtained only from abroad.”

Breeders have bred many domestic varieties of dahlias, gladioli, phlox and other flower and ornamental plants, not only not inferior to foreign varieties, but also superior to them: for example, dahlias Soviet Arctic, Alexander Nevsky, Vasilisa beautiful, Michurin, Kremlin Star, etc. ; gladioli Glinka, Wings of the Soviets, Pobeda, Anton Chekhov, Red Moscow, etc.; phlox Salute, Memory of Yermolova, Red Marshal, Rainbow, etc.; peon Victory; tulip Russian hero; asters Northern Lights, Beauty of the Soviets, etc.

The North-Caucasian Plant of Flower Seed Breeding conducts selection of levkoy for terry and curb flyers. He bred up to 500 hybrid seedlings of cannes, roses, gladioli, obtained by crossing cultivated varieties with wild imbricatus, the original form of branching lily and several other lily hybrids.

The Kaloshin Experimental Nursery under the direction of L. A. Kolesnikov produces seedlings of new varietal lilacs.

The Izmaylovsky Ornamental Horticulture Plant selects the elite of several hundred different varieties of flowers.

Selection of roses, lilacs, cannes, dahlias and other plants is carried out by IP Kovtunenko at the Ornamental Cultures state farm near Nalchik.

The collection of flower and ornamental plants collected in the Main Botanical Garden of the Academy of Sciences of Russia made it possible to obtain many interesting forms of phlox, gladiolus, dahlias, roses, etc.

Academician I. G. Epkhfeld (Leningrad) bred excellent hybrids of polyanthus roses from seeds from free pollination (buried with earth, they winter near Leningrad in open ground); hybrid gladioli with large flowers by interbreeding.

The forest-steppe breeding experimental station received new hybrid forms of lilac, jasmine, and others that are interesting in terms of decorative qualities.

In order to identify the most valuable domestic varieties and recommend them for introduction into production, in the system of the Ministry Agriculture Russia organized the state variety testing of ornamental crops, which is carried out by the State Commission for variety testing of fruit and berry crops. The network of variety plots covers the south, northwest and central part of Russia.

Varieties are submitted to the State Commission by experimental institutions, voluntary societies, state farms, collective farms, as well as individual flower growers.

The method of state variety testing of ornamental crops established the following amount of planting material for each variety required for submission to the state variety testing: phlox, delphinium, iris - 48 pieces, tulip, narcissus, gladiolus, low lily - 60 pieces, dahlia - 30-50 pieces, lily tall and medium-sized - 32 pieces, lilac, jasmine, park and climbing roses - 15 pieces, hybrid tea and hybrid polyanthus roses - 36 pieces, remontant roses - 30 pieces, polyanthus roses - 48 pieces.

Bush and rhizome perennials are divided mother bushes with 3-4 shoots and a well-developed root system, dahlias - rooted cuttings with a well-developed root system or mother tubers in the amount of 9 to 15 pieces, gladioli and bulbous - corms and bulbs of the first analysis, roses - one-year-old seedlings grafted on lilac - two-year-old seedlings budded on S. vulgaris, jasmine - three-year-old seedlings obtained by cuttings. As an exception, lilac and jasmine are taken as rooted cuttings.

For annual and biennial flower crops, seeds of the 1st class should be submitted to the state variety test in the following quantities: aster - 15 g, levkoy - 15 g, antirrinum - 5 g, sweet pea - 150 g, viola - 25 g.

Breeding (from Latin Selectio - choice, selection) is the science of breeding new varieties and improving existing ones. As a rule, the purpose of breeding is to develop plants that have certain decorative biological and economic characteristics. For example, modern breeders are striving to obtain new varieties of phlox resistant to powdery mildew; early ripe varieties of gladiolus with flowers of beautiful shape and pure colors, etc.

selection methods. by the most simple method selection is the sowing of seeds from free natural pollination, followed by the selection of the most interesting specimens.

The best results in terms of the breadth of targeted shaping of plants were obtained using artificial hybridization - crossing two or more pure forms with each other in order to combine in one variety the valuable qualities inherent in the original organisms.

Scientists have also developed methods to artificially increase the number of chromosomes in cell nuclei. By treating plant growth points or seeds with a solution of colchicine, it is possible to disrupt the process of chromosome division, as a result of which their number doubles. Cells with a double, quadruple L (etc.) number of chromosomes are called polyploid. Polyploid plants have a strong stem, are distinguished by the brightness of color and size of flowers, abundant flowering.

In nature, mutations appear as a result of exposure to environmental factors. An example of a natural mutation is the first parrot forms of tulips.

Artificial mutagenic changes can be obtained by exposing vegetative (buds, bulbs, shoots) or generative organs (seeds, pollen, eggs) of a plant to chemical compounds (ethylene methyl, ethyleneimine, diethyl sulfate) or irradiation (gamma rays, neutrons, X-rays) Doses and processing power depends on the individual characteristics of the species and its condition.

Hybridization it can be closely related or distant: with closely related intraspecific hybridization, different varieties of the same species are crossed; with remote - species or varieties of different species. In interspecific or intergeneric hybridization, difficulties may arise due to the non-crossing of distantly related species. To increase their crossability, the following methods are specially developed and widely used by breeders: preliminary vegetative approach, grafting one plant onto another, followed by their cross-pollination; pollination with a mixture of pollen various kinds and varieties as a result of which hybrid seeds are better tied (the method is based on the selectivity of fertilization); use of the mediator method, if two varieties do not cross with each other, but only with a third, then they are first crossed with it, and then the already obtained hybrid is crossed with one of the original forms; use of stimulants (gibberellin, succinic acid, etc.) that enhance the growth of pollen tubes on the stigma of the pistil; surgical intervention - shortening the style of the pestle, injecting pollen suspension directly into the ovary with a syringe; addition to paternal maternal pollen as a stimulant (mother pollen is neutralized by grinding it in a porcelain mortar)

With distant hybridization, backcrosses are sometimes carried out, when hybrids of the first generation are again crossed with one of the parental forms.

The creation of a new variety is a series of successive stages: selection of initial parental pairs; crossing and obtaining hybrid seeds; growing hybrid seedlings; primary individual selection of promising seedlings; reproduction of selected seedlings and their transfer for evaluation by an expert commission and further recommendations the best varieties for variety testing; variety testing at the variety plot of ornamental crops.

The correct selection of initial parental pairs is the basis for the effectiveness of hybridization. For crossing, varieties or species are selected that complement each other according to individual characteristics. At the same time, from several varieties with the necessary trait, the one that has the least number of negative qualities is selected. The mother plant should be selected more carefully, since for the most part hybrids inherit many biological and decorative features from the mother variety.

Varieties taken for hybridization must fully correspond to the varietal affiliation. Good results are obtained by crossing varieties of different geographical origin (for example, American with European or Belarusian with Altai)

For breeding, wild forms can also be used by transferring them into culture directly from the natural conditions of the habitat. When they are crossed, increased viability and immunity to diseases are often transferred to hybrid offspring. Thus, wild species of tulips do not suffer from viral variegation, while in cultivated varieties this disease is the main cause of death. Therefore, the main direction of tulip breeding is to obtain varieties with a trait of resistance to variegation inherited from wild species.

To obtain benign hybrid seeds and increase the percentage of ovary, it is necessary to know the biological characteristics of flowering and pollination of the original parental pairs. All plants are divided into self- and cross-pollinated and are adapted to one or another type of pollination. In self-pollinating ones, the anthers burst and produce mature pollen in the still closed flower; in cross-pollinated ones, the stigma and pistil ripen at different times. Self-pollination does not occur in dioecious and monoecious dioecious plants. In some plants, this is prevented by the structural features of the flower.

Knowledge of the characteristics of flowering and pollination allows you to determine for each specific species the optimal time for the castration of flowers, pollen collection and pollination. If the anthers ripen earlier, then this phenomenon is called proterandry, if the pistils are called proterogyny. Thanks to the latter, sweet peas can be crossed without castration, pollinating pistils until their own anthers ripen.

The viability of pollen and pistil in different crops is not the same. The perception of pollen by the stigma is established empirically. To do this, a part of the mature stigmas is pollinated daily, and then the most optimal time for its susceptibility is determined by the percentage of seeds that have set. The viability of pollen in artificial conditions can last longer than in natural conditions, and depends on the method of storage. A method has been developed for long-term storage of pollen in sealed glass capsules at a temperature of 1–2 °C; in a number of plants, it retains its viability for more than a year and is convenient for shipment.

Crossing technique. For crosses, flowers of well-developed, large, healthy plants are chosen. Usually, flowers of the first flowering (roses, dahlias) are used so that the seeds have time to ripen well by autumn. When the bud is ready to open, castration is performed so that pollination by its own pollen does not occur. For this purpose, anthers that have not yet burst are removed with tweezers. In some plants (phlox, lilac) with small flowers, the anthers are removed along with the corolla. Castrated flowers are put on insulators, which are sewn from parchment paper. Cotton wool is laid between the stem and the insulator (from the penetration of pollinating insects) and the insulator is tied with twine.

Pollen on the stigma of the pestle is applied with a soft brush or a piece of pencil eraser worn on a dissecting needle. When the pistil is ripe and ready to accept pollen, moisture (secret) is released on the stigma. The most favorable time for pollination is the morning hours and dry warm weather. After applying the pollen to the stigma, put on the insulator again. For greater reliability of fertilization, pollination of the flower is repeated the next day.

Pollen for pollination is collected in advance. To do this, large, well-colored buds are cut off and anthers are plucked with tweezers. The latter are laid out on clean paper in a dry place, protected from direct sunlight. When ripe, the anthers burst, and pollen spills out of them, which is used for pollination. Pollen is stored in glass bottles or parchment bags, which are placed in a desiccator with calcium chloride (to create a constant and moderate air humidity). The desiccator is placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of 2 ... 3 ° C.

Special attention during hybridization, it refers to the purity of the work carried out and the accuracy of the documentation. With each new combination of crossing, the brush is washed with alcohol, and the pollen bottles are disinfected. The name of the variety or species and the date of pollen collection are written on the box with a simple pencil. When crossing, a parchment label is hung on a branch with a pollinated flower indicating the combination number, the number of pollinated flowers, and the date of crossing. The journal records all the necessary data on pollination and collection of hybrid fruits and seeds.

Among amateur gardeners there are people who are truly passionate about gardening. Cultivation is no longer an end in itself for them, they go further and try to invent something of their own: for example, special methods of agricultural technology or breed their own variety. Creating a new variety of tomato for an amateur gardener is a very difficult task. Let's try to figure it out: is it really so?

In the picture: the structure of a tomato flower: 1- petal; 2- stamens fused into a cone; 3 - stigma of pestle; 4 - column inside the pestle; 5 - ovary; on the left - the stigma of the pistil inside the staminate cone, on the right above the cone.

Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants. Therefore, in order to breed a new variety, artificial insemination is necessary. A flower consists of a stamen with anthers (male organ) and a pistil (female organ). To obtain a new variety on the mother plant, you need to select a yellow-green bud (slightly opened) and castrate the stamens (pull out the stamens with tweezers), leaving the pistil with the stigma. It is important not to damage them and isolate them with cotton wool.

At one time, this operation is carried out on no more than two flowers of one brush. The remaining flowers are removed! The next day, on the paternal plant in the morning (before 10 o'clock), pollen is taken from the anthers on a well-opened yellow flower and applied with cotton wool or a soft brush to an isolated flower of the mother plant. This pollinated flower is again covered with cotton wool. Do not forget to sign the date and name of the parent varieties.

Pollination is not always successful, so the operation is repeated at least 10 times on other brushes. The optimum temperature for pollen germination is 20-30 degrees. At a temperature of 8-12 and 35-40, the pollen becomes sterile and unable to fertilize. Whether the pollination was successful will be seen in a week. On pollinated flowers, ovaries will begin to grow, and unpollinated ones will fall off.

After harvesting, the seeds of these fruits will be first-generation hybrids. The next year, when grown from these seeds, the same signs appear - hybrid evenness. In the next generation, splitting into various forms of parental traits occurs. From all the variety of seedlings obtained, it is important to choose those plants that will be the most productive, tasty, and most importantly, that they meet your requirements. And only in the third generation varietal features are fixed. It is necessary to carefully monitor the plants and choose only those that do not split according to varietal characteristics. Seeds from these plants will give rise to a new variety that you have created.

Now let's talk about how to choose parent lines. This requires an arbitrary choice. The main aspect for the development of a new variety is: early maturity, yield, resistance to diseases and low temperatures. It all depends on your imagination. In the first generation, hybrids in most cases resemble the mother plant. The progenitors of many varieties and hybrids are generally recognized varieties: De Barao, Bull's Heart. Cosmonaut Volkov, Ox Heart, Giant Novikov. When breeding a new variety, it is difficult to put together all the best qualities of a tomato. If you rely on yield, then taste is lost. In order for the new variety not to be affected by phytophthora, it is necessary to choose parental lines (preferably paternal ones) during plant disease.

In 2008 I bred a very tasty high-yielding Sumochny variety. The fruit weighed up to 1 kg. Fruits are dark red, sweet, fleshy, 4-6 fruits in a brush. Plant of indeterminate type, powerful, resistant to drought and disease. The last fruits were harvested in November. I will not talk about the parents of this variety. Let it remain my secret, but the selection work was carried out for more than one year. I have a huge material for choosing parent lines: I have a large number of varieties of amateur selection. The collection contains more than 500 varieties and hybrids. I brought out more than 30 myself. Every season I plant about 200 varieties, and only a few pass the casting. I also have outstanding varieties of raspberries (up to 10 g) and strawberries (strawberries), the weight of berries is 50 - 100 g. All varieties are remontant (they bear fruit all season). I also have hybrids of high-yielding cucumbers and potatoes, which are not to the taste of the beetle.

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