The filter in the heating system is clogged. Features of flushing the heating system: an overview of the best ways

It will not be a secret to anyone that over time the quality of heat supply systems deteriorates noticeably. Many people now live in apartment buildings that were built a very long time ago, at least twenty years ago. So, they know firsthand about these problems. These include poor circulation, poor heating, and contaminated water from drinking taps. What to do in such situations? Chemical cleaning of heating systems or conventional hydropneumatic flushing can help you solve these problems.

In this article, we will consider this problem in detail, consider ways to solve it, as well as photos and videos of these processes.

The essence of the problem

Scale elements collect on the surfaces of radiators, pipes and other components of heating systems, their appearance leads to problems such as:

  • Accelerated mechanical wear of pipelines;
  • The efficiency of the heating itself decreases.

Important. Experts calculated that a scale thickness of just one millimeter worsens heat transfer by fifteen percent, which significantly reduces the quality and efficiency of the system.

This effect is explained by the fact that such deposits reduce thermal resistance, as a result, heat transfer and pipeline capacity deteriorate.

Work technology

The cleaning of the heating system itself is a complex of works, which consists of:

  • primary diagnosis. Thanks to these works, the nature of the scale and the exact composition are determined;
  • Selection of the necessary equipment and drawing up a technological map;
  • Anti-corrosion treatment. It is carried out after cleaning and is aimed at preventing scale and deposits.

As for the work process itself, the following types are distinguished:

  1. Pneumohydropulse;
  2. hydrodynamic;
  3. Chemical.

Chemical

There is an opinion among experts that this type of flushing is the most in demand and popular, because it quickly and efficiently removes deposits. In most cases, aqueous solutions of mineral and organic acids, composite solutions, alkalis and solvents are used.

You need to be extremely careful when doing the work yourself, because the above solutions are toxic.

Important. It is not allowed to use alkaline and acid solutions in heating systems with aluminum radiators, as this will lead to a violation of their tightness.

For the work involved specialized:

  • hoses;
  • pumps;
  • Capacities;
  • Liquid and powder cleaners.

Such activities are carried out over several days during preparation for the heating season. These works allow to restore capacity and avoid major repairs.

Pollution that accumulates in the heating system of a private house adversely affects the efficiency of its functioning. For this reason, experts recommend regular flushing of pipes and radiators.

Blockages in heating systems - causes and signs of occurrence

The water used in modern heating systems as a heat carrier contains a number of chemical components. When high temperatures begin to act on them, magnesium, calcium, iron and other elements are released in the form of small fractions. The resulting particles settle in batteries and pipes (on internal surfaces). As a result, over time, a layer of hard plaque appears. It complicates the circulation of the coolant, thereby reducing the efficiency of the system - the heating of the home becomes of poor quality. As a rule, plaque consists of 50–60% calcium and magnesium deposits, 20–30% iron oxides, 10–15% zinc oxide, sulfur, and copper.

It has been proven that with a total thickness of deposits of 7–9 mm, the quality of the functioning of the heat supply system is reduced by 40–50%. If the owner of the dwelling does not periodically clean the pipes and radiators, the level of their wear and tear at one "fine" moment will reach a critical point. This will result in the need for a complete system replacement.

The frequency of pipe cleaning depends on what material they are made of, in what temperature conditions they work, as well as on other factors. In practice, the need to flush the heating system installed in a private house is determined by the following criteria:

  • an increase in electricity consumption when using an electric boiler or fuel when using other types of heating units;
  • uneven heating of batteries;
  • extraneous sounds, noises during the start-up of the heat supply complex;
  • increase the system warm-up time.

If you observe at least one of these signs, it makes sense to clean the radiators and pipes. This operation is performed different ways. We will talk about them.

Flushing pipes and batteries with water-pulsing mixtures and biological products

You can clean the system in different ways. For these purposes, use:

  • special biological preparations;
  • water-pulsing mixture;
  • water hammer technology;
  • chemical compounds.

When using biological products, there is no need to turn off the heat supply system. This technique allows you to clean pipes and heating radiators in a short time. The essence of the method is the addition of special compositions with a high level of biological activity. The added biological product dissolves in water and circulates with it for some time, dissolving deposits of nickel, iron (rust) and other elements.

The compositions used do not destroy the inner surface of the pipes; from the point of view of ecology, they are completely safe. The technology is very simple and clear. But, unfortunately, an ordinary person, far from plumbing wisdom, is not always able to choose the right preparation for cleaning system elements made of different materials. In most cases, the home master is forced to seek the advice of specialists. Therefore, this technique is used in everyday life relatively rarely.

Self-administration of water-pulsing flushing is also rare. This technology is implemented using special equipment that allows you to fill heating pipes and batteries with a special liquid composition (compressed air plus water) and act on the system with active impulses. The latter quickly clean the lines from the inside, removing deposits of various origins, raids and rust. One procedure of water-pulse washing guarantees a significant increase in the level of heat transfer of any heating system.

Hydropercussion and chemical cleaning - when are they used?

Water hammer technology is indispensable for flushing old heating networks with cast-iron pipes and batteries that have been in operation for quite a long time (10 years or more). It is almost impossible to deal with blockages in such systems in other ways.

The water hammer technique is used for pipelines up to 60 meters long with a standard layout of water channels.

We note right away that the technology we are interested in is considered very labor-intensive. The principle of such cleaning is based on the impact of a shock wave of a certain force on the plaque. You can create the required impact using special pumping equipment. It is also necessary to stock up on a hose and special nozzles for supplying liquid to the pipeline. In order to qualitatively flush the heating system using the hydraulic shock method in a private house, the following steps should be performed:

  1. 1. We remove water from the pipeline.
  2. 2. We select the parts of the system that need to be cleaned.
  3. 3. We dismantle a piece of pipe in the chosen place.
  4. 4. We introduce a hose with a nozzle into the line, start the pump.

Pressurized water actively breaks up deposits. In this case, mechanical damage to the pipes (their inner walls) is not applied. Almost all (about 96–98%) of the shock wave is directed towards the water flow. After cleaning (the duration of the procedure is usually 50–60 minutes), it is necessary to remove all existing internal filters from the line, fill the heating system with water and rinse it thoroughly. This will remove the remnants of plaque.

If the pipeline is characterized by a complex configuration, it makes no sense to apply the water hammer technique. The flow of water will not be able to remove plaque in hard-to-reach areas of the network. In such situations, it is more reasonable to use chem. cleaning. To implement it with your own hands, in principle, is not difficult. The main thing is to choose the right cleaning composition. Some chemicals sold in specialized stores can destroy polymer and aluminum pipes. Always consult with professionals whether it is possible to use one or another composition for washing products from these materials. And read the manufacturer's instructions very carefully.

Chem. cleaning is carried out using a container for liquid and a pump. They must be connected to the pipeline through nozzles. Chemical flushing is suitable for removing plaque from the entire line, and only from its individual sections. The cleaning process itself is performed as follows:

  1. 1. Drain the water from the system.
  2. 2. Pour chemical into the container. compound.
  3. 3. Start the pumping equipment, the cleaning agent enters the line.
  4. 4. Wait 2.5-3 hours.

Cleaning is considered complete after deposits from the system no longer enter the liquid container. Important! After using chemicals, the pipeline must be flushed with plain water. This operation makes it possible to wash away the remnants of the used reagents. The final work is the pressing of the heat supply system and its tightness test.

Most of the pollution is formed in the sections of the highway that are located near the heating unit. These places are zones of the greatest thermal influence. They should be cleaned as often as possible. Ideally, flushing the heating network in a private dwelling should be done every 2-3 years. In reality, home craftsmen carry it out every 5-6 years. This is perfectly acceptable.

If the system has not been cleaned for 10–15 years, it is necessary to without fail dismantle the heat exchangers of the heating unit and all installed batteries. Pipes do not need to be disassembled or removed. And the last. After flushing the pipeline, analyze the condition of the clamp and threaded fittings mounted on the main. Often they are also clogged with scale and rust. If deposits are minor, simply remove them. In cases where it is not possible to clean the fittings, replace them with new elements.

Any heating system, whether central or completely autonomous, is a rather complex “organism” that includes many elements, each of which performs a particular purpose. And in this list of components there must be a place for filtering and cleaning devices for the coolant. This function is taken over by mud collectors.

When designing central heating systems, such filters are planned without fail, both in boiler houses or at thermal power plants, and on collectors and elevator units directly in buildings connected to heating networks. But in individual construction, no, no, and there are situations when inexperienced house owners do not fully understand how important mud collectors are for heating systems, and do not include them in an independently developed scheme. And it’s completely in vain - these very inexpensive, easy to install and maintain devices can significantly improve the operation of the entire system, significantly extend the trouble-free period of its operation, save the owners from the rather laborious and dirty work of periodic cleaning of both pipes and radiators, and significantly reduce operating costs for heating housing.

The carrier of thermal energy from the boiler or central to the radiators is a liquid heat carrier. Most often, this role is played by water, pure or with any chemical additives. In certain conditions, for example, in private houses where the owners do not live all year round, special liquids are often used that are resistant to negative temperatures - antifreezes, but even in them water occupies a significant part of the total volume.

Water is always a very active oxidizing agent that causes corrosion. metal parts thermal routes, intra-house wiring, radiators, shut-off and control valves. The formed particles of rust eventually exfoliate from the walls and are picked up by the flow. However, if certain conditions are created in a pipe, on a tap, in a radiator, at a welded or threaded joint, in a tee or at a bend (narrowing of the passage, unevenness, influx from the weld, change in flow direction, etc.), then this the place with a high degree of probability becomes vulnerable to the formation of a plug - small scale particles settle, accumulate, layer, narrowing, and sometimes completely blocking the passage of the coolant.

Many people are probably familiar with the situation when heating radiators heat up unevenly, not over their entire area. It also happens that in the battery several sections remain cold at all - the coolant clearly does not circulate through them.

Radiator sections clogged with dirt - the reason for their uneven heating

If the check shows that there is no air in the radiator, then such a picture can only be caused by the accumulation of dirt.

Sometimes when you open the battery, you can see a similar "sad" picture.

Such radiators will not be able to provide the required heat transfer, and you will have to resort to emergency measures - remove them and carry out a thorough flushing. And this, believe me, is a very complex and time-consuming process.

How is radiator flushing carried out?

There are several technologies for cleaning pipes and radiators from accumulations of dirt and scale deposits. Details on how it is performed, and the idea and its verification by the method are described in a special publication of our portal.

Not only radiators are overgrown with dirt - it also clogs pipe channels, taps, air valves, branch pipes of expansion tanks, etc. As a result, the operation of the heating system begins to completely go out of balance.

Clogged pipes are an additional, completely unnecessary load on the pump and boiler, unnecessary energy costs

So, narrowed passages do not provide the necessary volume of circulation of the coolant, and in order to achieve the desired temperature, it is necessary to increase the current power of the boiler. Moreover, the layer of plaque on the walls of pipes and radiators becomes a "thermal insulation pad", that is, heat transfer is sharply reduced. And this is another reason for the increase in heating costs.

This "migrating" dirt and solid particles can lead to additional stress on the circulation pump, damage to its turbine and complete failure. Well, the saddest thing will be if blockages form in the boiler heat exchanger - this in most cases leads to burnout of the heat exchanger, often entailing the replacement of everything expensive equipment generally.

An increased concentration of solid inclusions can seriously change the electrolytic characteristics of the coolant, which is highly undesirable for heating systems powered by an electrode (ion) boiler.

Electrode boilers require special properties of the coolant

The principle of operation of electrode boilers is fundamentally different from other heaters. More about the device and characteristics - in a special publication of our portal.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to completely eliminate the formation of solid suspensions in the circuits and heat exchange devices of the heating system. This means that it is necessary to organize a “collection point” in which debris and dirt will be retained, filtered out of the liquid, and then regularly removed, moreover, by very affordable methods that do not require the dismantling of any components of the heating system. This is precisely the main function of mud filters.

Equipping the system with such filtering devices immediately provides a number of advantages:

  • The most complex and expensive components of the system - the pump and the boiler - receive reliable protection against pollution, overgrowing of channels and damage. Consequently, their operational resource increases significantly.
  • The need for frequent draining of the coolant to replace it with a new, clean one disappears - it will be maintained in a satisfactory condition for use anyway. Considering that some coolants cost a lot, this is another article of significant savings.
  • The use of filters and high-quality, properly selected coolant will free the owners for a long time from the procedure for cleaning and flushing all heating systems.

Much depends on the quality of the coolant

Of course, the maximum efficiency and safety of operation of the heating system can only be achieved using a high-quality coolant. A special publication of our portal is completely devoted to varieties and characteristics.

  • Heating radiators clean from dirt and solid deposits provide maximum heat transfer, and free channels of pipes, fittings, connecting assemblies and control valves - the minimum hydraulic resistance of the coolant. Both allow the boiler and pump to work optimally with a minimum consumption of the respective energy carriers. Moreover, it has been calculated that, in general, the effect of saving the operation of a “clean” system, compared to one with mud deposits, can even reach 40%.

In a word, there is something to think about - the installation of a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use device immediately gives the owners a lot of preferences.

The main types of mud filters and their device

General classification of mechanical filters

In filters for coarse mechanical purification of water from solid impurities (which deserved the name of mud collectors), three basic principles for separating suspensions are used:

  • Settling filters use gravitational forces - due to a sharp increase in volume and, accordingly, a drop in flow velocity, solid particles settle to the bottom under the action of gravity. Often this is supplemented by a sharp change in the direction of movement - then turbulent and centrifugal forces are also included in the "work", carrying more inert heavy particles to the periphery of the flow, where they settle, thereby releasing water.

A typical device for such a sump is shown in the diagram below:

Usually these are vertically arranged cylindrical body (pos. 1), into which two branch pipes with flanged connections are welded: inlet (pos. 2) and outlet (pos. 3). From the bottom, the body is closed with a flange plug (pos. 4), the top is tightly welded. The bottom plug usually has a branch pipe (pos. 5) for mounting a valve to it for maintenance work - draining the sludge and washing the filter. There is also a branch pipe on top (pos. 6) - a valve is installed here to release air when the system is filled with coolant.

In the cavity of the central cylinder, there may be one or more jumpers (pos. 7) that sharply change the direction of the flow of water passing through the filter (shown by blue arrows). Solid inclusions (pos. 8) settle down, where a layer of sludge is formed (pos. 9), which is regularly cleaned during preventive maintenance.

Such filters are usually installed on large pipelines, for example, on industrial enterprises. In a home heating system, their use is not very rational. However, the principle of gravitational water purification is successfully used in other filter models.

  • Mesh filters - in them, the flow of water is passed through a mesh structure with cells of a certain size. All particles whose diameter exceeds the cell size remain in the filter.

  • In magnetic filters, as the name implies, permanent magnets are installed, which attract small particles of metal and metal scale. It is recognized that the installation of a magnetic filter, in addition, dramatically reduces the likelihood of scale formation on the walls of pipes and in heat exchangers of heating devices.

As already mentioned, very often in modern mud filters used for heating systems, two, and sometimes all three principles of mechanical water purification are combined.

According to the type of installation in the system, sump filters can be in three different versions:

  • Sleeve filters are often installed on pipes of small and medium diameter, characteristic of autonomous heating systems.

On both sides of such a product for connection to pipes, couplings with internal (there are models with external) threads are provided. On the filter housing, respectively, hexagons are provided for inserting an open-end, adjustable or gas wrench during installation or dismantling. Such filters are usually immediately "packed" into the system when it is assembled.

  • With threaded connections on the pipes of the middle and large diameter(over 2 inches) it is extremely difficult to work, therefore, filters with a flange connection are most often installed in such areas.

Flange connection involves the installation of an o-ring, and then tightening with bolts. During the initial installation of such a filter, there are a few more worries, since it is required to weld counter flanges to the pipe in a strictly established position, observing the installation length of the product. But on the other hand, if it is necessary to remove the filter, it will be quite simple to do this without resorting to dismantling the entire wiring section.

  • There are filters that are mounted “tightly” to the pipes - on both sides of such devices there are nozzles, along the edge of which a chamfer is made - for a weld.

Probably the only advantage of such filters is lower cost. But in the event of an accident or the need for replacement, you will have to cut a section of the pipe.

Non-removable, welded mud collectors include filters in a polypropylene housing - specially designed for small diameter pipes of similar design.

They are also welded immediately during the installation of piping, and to replace them, if necessary, you will have to cut out a whole section. Therefore, probably, they are not particularly popular - usually most craftsmen prefer to install metal couplings, and only then switch from them to polypropylene.

According to the method of maintenance, filters also have their own gradation:

  • Self-flushing - in such mud collectors, a tap is provided in the lower part, when opened, the accumulated dirt (sludge) is washed out with a stream of water. At the same time, the filter mesh is cleaned.

For better flushing of the grid, often when installing the filter, a bypass with a valve is provided. This makes it possible to redirect the flow of water from the reverse side during maintenance - even solid inclusions that are tightly stuck in the cells are washed out very well and drained into the drain tap.

  • Wash filters. They do not require dismantling the entire product - after disconnecting a section of the system from the coolant supply, it is enough to unscrew the plug or remove the flange plug, remove the filter element and clean and rinse it (if necessary or in models with cartridge inserts, replace it with a new one). Then the filter is assembled in the reverse order - and it is ready for use again.

  • There is also a category of non-flushing mud filters. To service them, you have to completely dismantle the entire device from the system. Of course, this is very inconvenient, and such products are not in demand and are practically not installed in autonomous systems heating.

And, finally, mechanical filtration devices can be divided into two categories according to the degree of purification of the liquid passing through them:

  • , which, in principle, are called "mud collectors", have grids capable of retaining solid inclusions larger than 300 microns (0.3 mm).
  • Fine cleaning devices are designed to filter out suspensions ranging in size from 5 to 300 microns. They are usually used in post-treatment systems. tap water for household and food needs. Such filters are not used in the heating system - such high cleaning is not required here, and the filter elements themselves will quickly become clogged and require replacement or flushing.

Now consider the most common types of mud filters that are installed in heating systems.

Brass mesh "oblique" filters

This is perhaps the most common category of mud filters used in local home heating systems. They have a clutch threaded connection in a fairly wide size range - from ½ to 2 inches, which is quite enough for installation on any autonomous heating pipeline.

The design of the filter is quite simple:

The device of a brass "oblique" mud filter

The cast brass body (pos. 1) is a monolithic pairing of two cylinders, straight and inclined (pos. 3). On both sides of the straight cylinder there are threaded sockets for mounting the filter (item 2). The “oblique” cylinder ends with a brass plug (pos. 4) with a turnkey hexagon. Between the plug and the body there is a sealing gasket, usually Teflon (pos. 5). In the most inclined part there is a filter element - a stainless steel mesh (pos. 6) with cells of a certain size.

The correct direction of flow of the filtered liquid must be indicated on the body with an arrow. The beveled part always faces forward in the direction of flow.

The tables below show the main operational and installation parameters of brass "oblique" filters:

Main performance characteristics brass "oblique" filters:

Product parametersPipeline diameter
G1 G 1¼ G 1½ G2
Nominal pressure in the system, bar20 20 20 16 16 16
Crimping pressure, bar30 30 30 24 24 24
Grid cell size, µm500 500 500 800 800 1000
Distance between grid cell centers, mm1,1 1,1 1,1 1,4 1,4 1,6
Grid cell density per 1 cm², pcs156 156 156 83 83 59
Maximum allowable coolant temperature, °C+150
Degree of transparency (“transparency”) of the filter, %39 39 39 53 53 59
Total filtration surface area with a clean mesh, cm²17,9 32,6 44,8 55,7 77,1 111,0
Average throughput of the device with a clean filter element, m³/h3,15 5,0 9,9 15,5 24,0 28,5
Nominal coolant flow with a clean filter, m³/h1,41 2,24 4,43 6,93 10,7 12,7
Average filter lifeup to 30 years

Mounting characteristics of filters:

Nominal passage, Du, mmPipe thread diameterBuilding dimensionsEmpty weight, kg
height H, mmlength L, mm
15 40.5 51 0.132
20 47.5 63.5 0.213
25 G153 68 0.285
32 G 1¼65 91.5 0.573
40 G 1½73 102.5 0.750
50 G288 126 1.160

Installation of such filters does not constitute special work for those who are familiar with the basics of plumbing techniques. Usually, a shut-off valve is installed in front of the filter - it allows you to shut off the coolant supply for preventive maintenance to clean the device from accumulated dirt. But the main thing that is important to consider is the correct orientation of the filter in space:

Correct installationWrong installation
Correct installation on a horizontal site. The beveled cylinder is located at the bottom.Quite often, unfortunate “masters” mount the filter with the stopper up - apparently, for the reasons that it is easier to get to it during maintenance. However, such placement leads to a very rapid overgrowth of dirt in the passage to the filter chamber, reducing the throughput of the device.
Correct vertical installation. The coolant flow is organized from top to bottom. Such an arrangement in a vertical section with the coolant currents upwards does not allow the filtered sludge to concentrate in the cleaning chamber for preventive maintenance. The cleaning capabilities of the device are sharply reduced, and dirt can collect on the walls of pipes or on valves.

The filter is usually mounted on the return pipe before circulation pump or boiler, if the pump is structurally part of the boiler. Thus, all possible contaminants collected along the heating circuit are removed from the coolant that has described the complete circulation cycle.

Regular cleaning of the "oblique" filter is not particularly difficult. You just need to close the coolant supply valves on both sides (if a filter is installed behind the filter in the direction of the liquid flow check valve, then it can only be blocked from the entrance side). Then a container is supplied from below to collect the flowing liquid and accumulated sludge. Wrench the cork is unscrewed, the mesh is removed.

Mesh "oblique" sump, densely clogged with sludge

The grid should be cleaned with a polymer brush, and then thoroughly rinsed with a strong pressure of water. The glass of the "oblique" cylinder itself is checked - there should also be no deposits left. Then reassembly is performed with the plug tightened. At the same time, you can evaluate the condition of the gasket, as over time it may need to be replaced.

Video: device and cleaning process of the "oblique" filter

Care must be taken when purchasing such a filter. All the advantages mentioned in the table are valid only for high-quality brass products (some may have an external shiny nickel-plated or oxidized coating). Unfortunately, there are a lot of cheap fakes on the market made from silumin alloys, and no one will undertake to guarantee the long-term operation of such a filter.

Cast iron "oblique" magnetic filters

Outwardly, such filters are very similar to the brass ones discussed above and, in general, pierce their device. The difference is in the material of manufacture: the body and cork are cast from cast iron. The filter element is the same cylindrical stainless steel mesh. The gasket between the cork and the body is usually paronite.

Cast iron "oblique" mud sump with magnetic block

However, the filtering block is supplemented with one more element. A rack is rigidly mounted along the axis of the plug, on which disk-shaped permanent magnets made of a corrosion-resistant material are located at a certain interval. Thus, filtration takes place in two directions - the mesh captures mechanical impurities, and the magnetic block - particles of metal and scale. The quality of cleaning the coolant only benefits from this.

The main characteristics of the produced cast-iron "oblique" magnetic filters:

Nominal passage, Du, mmPipe thread diameterConstruction height, mmConstruction length, mmTurnkey hex size, S, mmMetal mesh cell size, mm
HH1LL1
25 G180 140 120 200 32 1.2x1.2
32 G 1¼100 155 140 220 46 1.4x1.4
40 G 1½110 180 160 280 46

Please note that in the columns of the mounting dimensions, two values ​​\u200b\u200bof the length and height are indicated. L and H are the usual installation values, and L1 and H1 - taking into account the obligatory leaving of the necessary space for the free removal of the plug with the stand and magnets during maintenance work.

Otherwise, the procedure for installing such filters in the system and the cleaning process do not differ from similar operations with "oblique" brass ones. At the same time, the rack with magnetic disks is also subjected to cleaning and washing.

Flanged magnetic mud filters

Such filters almost completely repeat the principle of operation of the cast-iron "oblique" ones - the difference is only in size. Flanged devices are usually installed on pipes from G 2 and above.

Instead of a threaded plug, there is also a flange-type plug. It often has a place for a drain hole, closed with a plug, allowing from time to time to drain the sludge and flush without resorting to removing the entire plug.

Characteristics of flanged magnetic filters

Nominal passage, Du, mmConstruction dimensions of productsFlange bolt hole diameter, d, mmNumber of bolt holes on the flange, n, pcsGrid cell size, mm
height, mmlength, mm
HH1LL1
50 140 200 230 280 18 4 1.4x1.4
65 165 250 290 355 18 4
80 195 275 310 385 18 8
100 215 315 350 425 18 8
150 320 490 480 645 22 8 2x2
200 415 630 650 890 22 12

When installing such filters, the installation length and height (L and H), and operational (L1 and H1) are also taken into account, taking into account the place for removing the plug and extracting the grid and magnetic block.

Subscriber filters sump-settlers

Among the most common filters installed on heating mains, in particular, in areas of their connection to intra-house networks, are the so-called subscriber filters. They can be produced in vertical or horizontal versions, but vertical is much more common. In such devices, the functions of a sump and mesh filtering of the liquid passed through them are combined.

Such mud filters are called "subscriber"

Such devices have a very high service life, are easy to maintain, and their solid internal volume reduces the frequency of regular preventive maintenance.

Structurally, they are a cylindrical body made of a steel pipe (pos. 1). Branch pipes with a flange are welded into it on both sides - inlet (pos. 2) and outlet (pos. 3). The nominal diameter of the nozzles corresponds to the pipe into which the filter cuts.

The outlet pipe has a special design. It reaches approximately the central axis of the cylindrical body in length, and is muffled from the inside. On the section from the wall to the plug, holes with a diameter of 5 to 8 mm are drilled in its walls, so that their total area is not less than twice the cross-sectional area of ​​the branch pipe. On top of these holes, a filter mesh (pos. 3) with cells of the appropriate size is laid.

A flange is welded along the lower edge of the body-pipe, to which a bottom-plug (item 5) is bolted. Typically, the plug provides the ability to install a drain cock (pos. 6) for regular cleaning of the cavity from accumulated dirt.

The filter cover is welded tightly, but it has a branch pipe or hole for mounting an air vent valve (item 7).

Characteristics of the line of vertical subscriber mud filters

Nominal passage, Du, mmMounting dimensionsEmpty weight, kg
height H, mmlength L, mm
40 217 308 16.7
50 240 359 22.7
65 369 419 45
80 369 419 48.9
100 421 473 70
125 421 473 73
150 563 526 103.3
200 669 626 184
250 785 730 269

The coolant, passing through a similar filter, passes through two stages of purification. Large and medium particles precipitate under the action of gravitational and centrifugal forces, while smaller ones are already held on the grid.

Due to the simplicity and reliability of the design, the relatively low cost of production, and the large operational potential, such subscriber filters are widely used in house wiring of heating systems. In particular, they are an indispensable element of the elevator assembly.

What is an elevator assembly of a heating system?

The temperature and operating pressure of the coolant coming from the heating mains must be brought to certain values ​​that correspond to the capabilities and needs of a particular in-house heating system. One of the simplest and most reliable solutions is the installation, the design and operation of which is described in a special publication of our portal.

Self-cleaning sump filter with additional air vent function

And in conclusion of the publication - an overview of another of the varieties of filters. These are modern self-flushing devices in a compact vertical case that do not take up much space and provide high-quality cleaning of the coolant from impurities.

Moreover, some models are equipped additional option- they allow you to separate (separate) dissolved gases and automatically remove them, preventing the well-known "scourge" of any heating system - its "airing", that is, the formation of air pockets.

One of these filters is shown in the diagram:

Typically, the body of such a filter is a metal cylinder (pos. 1), with a coupling connection to the inlet (pos. 2) and outlet (pos. 3) pipes. A glass (pos. 6) is screwed to it from below for collecting sludge (pos. 7) - it can also be metal or plastic, including, on some models, transparent, which allows visual control for the filter status. At the bottom, the glass ends with a tap (pos. 8) for cleaning and flushing the device.

Grids are installed inside the central part of the body. One of them, external, larger (pos. 4), acts as a separator for air and other gases dissolved in water. Bubbles accumulate and grow on it, which then, upon reaching a certain size, independently rise upwards under the influence of gravity.

The internal grid with small cells (pos. 5) is used to filter out solid particles from the coolant.

A unit for collecting separated air (pos. 9) with an automatic air removal system is screwed to the top of the housing. The design of the valve includes a float (pos. 10) connected by an actuator lever (pos. 11) to a needle valve (pos. 12). As air accumulates in the block, the float drops lower and lower, and reaching a certain level, opens the needle valve through the lever. The air escapes through the holes in the cover (pos. 13), the float rises again, and the valve closes.

The procedure for cleaning such filters from sludge has already been mentioned in the publication - just open the tap from below and wash the dirt with a stream of water. It is even better if it is possible to create a reverse flow of liquid for cleaning.

Some filters of this type are additionally equipped with magnetic inserts, which increases the cleaning efficiency. In addition, many models have built-in pressure gauges that show the fluid pressure at the inlet and outlet of the filter. A simple comparison of the readings of these devices can give a very clear picture of the degree of clogging of the filter elements with sludge (with a clean filter, the readings should be approximately equal), that is, signal the need for preventive maintenance.

Content

The heating system is the most important part of engineering networks, the uninterrupted operation of which ensures comfortable living conditions in the cold season. Timely repair, cleaning and other preventive measures significantly increase the service life and save fuel. If in apartment buildings it is engaged in maintenance and repair Management Company, then all questions regarding how to flush the heating system in a private house have to be solved independently.

Causes of clogging of the heating system

The most common cause of blockages in the heating systems of a private house is corrosion of the inner surface of pipes from exposure to air in a humid environment. After some time, rust fragments circulating through the pipes together with the coolant settle and accumulate in the circuit. Particles settle in the most unfavorable areas - pipe bends, contributing to the appearance of ruptures and fistulas. Ultimately, the coolant loses its throughput, there is a violation of stability temperature regime in various sections of the pipeline, and therefore it is necessary to clean the system.

Another common and no less dangerous cause of clogged pipes is scale. If corrosion is characteristic only of metal heating networks, then scale affects even plastic pipes, clogging them. small particles. The quality of the water filling the circuit is significantly reduced, sludge is formed in which debris gets stuck.


Dirty heating pipes
Pipes made of any materials are equally susceptible to pollution, therefore, regardless of the type of pipeline, it is necessary to clean the system in a timely manner.

Why flushing is necessary and how often

In multi-apartment residential buildings connected to centralized heat supply networks, flushing of heating systems is carried out annually and strictly according to the schedule that meets the requirements of SNiP. In the private sector, this procedure is carried out as needed.

It will be much cheaper to annually flush the system in a private house, performed during the inter-heating period, than to allow dirt and deposits to accumulate in it for several years, waiting for most of the pipeline flow area to be blocked.

In urban boiler houses, water treatment is regularly used to clean the coolant, but the unsatisfactory condition of the networks leads to constant water pollution. It is not easy for city utilities to cope with such a problem, which is why summer temporary shutdowns of hot water sometimes occur.

Owners of individual housing fill the heating system with plain water from the water supply without any preparation, in this case the only precaution is to install a filter at the water inlet to the house. Regular and timely flushing of the heating system in a private house allows you to increase the service life and increase the efficiency of the boiler, pipes and radiators, and prevents the formation and attachment of salts and scale to their walls, leading to destruction.

The filter installed in the boiler piping circuit is able to protect heating equipment only from small impurities that are initially in the water and do not cause any special problems.

If heating systems are not flushed for a long time, then the resulting deposits are even more dangerous and lead to a significant decrease in the efficiency of the heating network, reducing the inner diameter of the pipes and, accordingly, the throughput. In this regard, the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline increases, and the batteries do not receive enough heat required for normal space heating. Scale found in radiators and heat exchangers significantly reduces their heat transfer performance. The heat generator has to consume more fuel to increase the energy of the coolant and, as a result, increase the temperature in the living room.


Deposit formed in the pipe

Cleaning the heating system is usually the last thing in line for a troubled homeowner to do. Often, not understanding what the matter is, the owner raises the temperature of the coolant by simply turning the boiler handle, causing an increase in fuel consumption.

If problems with heating efficiency are identified, the system should be purged immediately. And in order to avoid such situations that usually arise in the midst of the heating period, it is necessary to perform annual maintenance.

How and how to flush radiators and heating system

The process of cleaning the heating system at home is not complicated, any owner can cope with it.

There are several ways to clean the heating network in a private house with your own hands:

  • mechanical washing;
  • dry cleaning;
  • method of pneumohydraulic impact;
  • biological washing.

Mechanical flush

This method of flushing heating systems requires a complete disassembly of all communications - before cleaning the elements, you will have to remove every detail of the system. The complexity of the method lies in cleaning the internal surfaces of pipes and batteries from scale and rust manually using metal brushes. Nowadays, it is practically not used, as it requires a significant investment of time and effort.


Dismantling for mechanical flushing of the heating system

Chemical Wash Method

Cleaning the system requires connecting a pump with a container filled with chemicals. Detergent dissolves and exfoliates contaminants adhering to pipe walls.

For chemical cleaning, two types of liquids are used - acid or alkaline, depending on the material from which the pipes and batteries are made, as well as the type of deposits. Chemistry is recommended to flush the heating system also in cases where it is too difficult to remove the elements of the system.

Alkaline or acid based flushing fluid must not be used with aluminum batteries due to the fact that the metal reacts with chemical compounds. It is also forbidden to clean depressurized systems, as chemical agent for washing is toxic and can be harmful to health. For the same reason, used liquids cannot be drained into the sewer, and work should be done with rubber gloves and a respirator.


Chemical flush
Before flushing the heating pipes of an individual house, it will not be superfluous to have the help of an expert who can select the optimal composition of the liquid based on his own analysis of contaminants and the configuration of the pipeline.

After chemical cleaning, all contaminants will be completely removed, the service life of the system is extended.

Hydropneumatic flushing

This method consists in processing the internal surfaces of batteries and pipes with a flow of water supplied under high pressure mixtures of air and water. Flushing the heating system in this way is highly efficient, but its use requires special equipment.

Hydropneumatic cleaning has proven itself when working with old-type cast-iron radiators, still Soviet-made. Cleaning with water and air does not impose any strict requirements on the elements of the heating system, as a chemical method, that is, it is equally suitable for all types of materials and pipes. Despite the high cost compared to the chemical method, it is completely safe and more effective.


Equipment connected to the elevator for hydropneumatic flushing

Pneumatic shock method

This method is the fastest (takes no more than an hour), convenient, since it does not have to dismantle the elements of the system, but requires the use of special equipment.

Special equipment is attached to the ends of heating communications - a pneumatic gun, with the help of which a pneumatic-hydraulic impulse is supplied to the pipeline, which peels off contaminants adhering to the walls of pipes and batteries.

Despite the serious and frighteningly complex name, flushing pipes in this way is absolutely safe, since a force of no more than 2% of the pulse power is applied to the walls, and the main blow falls on pollution.


Working principle of pneumatic hammer
Communications can be cleaned with a pneumohydraulic blow only if their total length is not more than 50 m, otherwise the required efficiency will not be achieved.

biological flush

At its core, this method is very similar to the chemical method, only high-tech solvents and wedging biological products are used instead of dangerous reagents. Under their influence, the crystalline bonds of pollutants are destroyed, corrosive and organic deposits are cleaned off.

Washing biomaterial is produced on water based, and their use allows you to completely clean the heating network in apartment building and in individual housing.


The process of cleaning pipes with flushing biomaterial

Conclusion on the topic

timely and regular cleaning allows you to ensure the uninterrupted and safe functioning of home heating systems. When heating a house, one should not bring matters to the point of taking radical measures - the use of chemistry or the use of pneumatic shock, because taking care of the system, from the boiler to the radiators, is much easier and cheaper.

After you flush the system, you should use special additives that reduce the corrosivity of the metal. For these purposes, such a common substance as caustic soda is quite suitable. As a result of preventive treatment with soda, you can significantly extend the life of the system.

Surely each of you at least once in your life faced a very unpleasant situation, when in the midst of heating season batteries suddenly began to heat the house poorly. Moreover, as consumers note, along with the low heat transfer of radiators, the volume of consumed resources remained at the same level.

Experts explain this phenomenon by the fact that the highway is clogged from time to time. And this, in turn, leads to a reduction in the useful volume of the pipeline and, as a result, to a decrease in the heat transfer of heating devices. Therefore, it is important to know how to flush the heating system in a private house, so that if you do not freeze, but definitely keep warm.

Where is the dirt in the radiators

As a rule, water is used as a heat carrier. The most common water, which is taken both from a centralized pipeline, and from a well or a nearby reservoir. In the first case, in most cases, various kinds of chemicals are added to the coolant, which are subsequently deposited on the walls of the heating main in the form of scale. The second one is somewhat more difficult. It is good if you have a good filter station at the entrance to the boiler, which purifies water from a well (reservoir) from sand, silt and other fine particles. However, not everyone has a thermal block equipped with equipment of this kind, as a result of which dirt remains on the walls, accumulates, as a result of which the passages narrow.

It is for this reason that cleaning the heating system in a private house is an extremely important and necessary procedure, without which, alas, heating will not be as efficient and economical.

The formation of scale on the inner wall of the thermal circuit, the thickness of which varies from 0.8 cm and above, leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the unit by 35%. Timely cleaning of the heating system will reduce the heat loss of such a plan.

Moreover, the presence foreign bodies in the heating main reduces the service life of the entire heating unit. And this, in turn, leads to additional costs for the purchase of a new boiler, as well as for the re-equipment of the heating unit as a whole. Therefore, it is important to prioritize correctly.

And although the rate of contamination does not directly depend on the material from which the radiators are made, the corrosion process should not be discounted.

How to determine the presence of scale

Thermal imager data - in the right picture, the battery is 40% dirty

Certainly, by external characteristics it is extremely difficult to determine the need for flushing the heating system. But at the same time, it is easy enough to find out if scale is in the heat main. So, the main indicators of the formation of dirt on the internal surfaces of heating devices and leading to them hot water pipes, as well as the need to perform a procedure such as flushing heating systems, are:

  • decrease in the rate of heating of heat exchangers;
  • the operation of the heating boiler is accompanied by extraneous sounds that have not been observed before;
  • partially cold battery - cold in the upper part, and hot in the lower part, or vice versa;
  • the radiator is completely cold, while the pipe leading to it is warm;
  • increase in the consumption of consumed fuel resources for warming up to the required temperature in the room.

In addition, plaque often forms in the heating circuit a few days after another heating device has been connected to it. This is due to the fact that new elements should, so to speak, “get used” to the operation of the entire assembly. Moreover, they are treated with special substances that prevent the formation of corrosion. And when water heated to a certain level passes through them, these paintwork components are washed off and gradually turn into plaque, coming into contact with other substances.

How to deal with the problem

Thanks to modern technologies, there are mechanical and chemical methods for flushing the heating system.

Mechanical

The good old old-fashioned method, in which the pipes are disassembled and all surfaces are manually cleaned of scale with the help of hard brushes, wire and knitting needles. Before starting, a thinning chemical (Mole, etc.) is poured into the pipes, which softens the layers and makes it possible to scrape them off quickly. The disadvantage of the method lies in the duration, complexity and understanding of how the system works, how to disassemble it, but most importantly, how to assemble it after cleaning.

Chemical

A modern way to get rid of scale and limestone deposits almost at the height of the heating season. For flushing, a pump is connected to the system, distilling water with a certain chemical composition, depending on the method, acid or alkaline.

Now in more detail about the most effective methods. Through which you can clean the heating system with your own hands.

Pulsating water composition

This option for flushing the heating of a residential building is carried out using special equipment. With the help of such installations, the heating circuit is filled with a mixture of compressed air masses and water. Ultimately, cleaning of the inner walls of the pipeline and heat exchangers is achieved through active wave pulsation.

This method of flushing the heating system in a private house is good because it allows you to get rid of accumulated contaminants in the mains and radiators in just 15 minutes. And this, in turn, significantly extends the operational life, as heating element, and the entire thermal circuit as a whole.

Timely cleaning allows you to reduce the consumption of fuel resources. Therefore, do not neglect such a procedure as flushing the heating system.

Biologicals

The advantages of this cleaning option are that there is no need to turn off the heating unit. So, biologically active preparations are added to the water, which literally dissolve any kind of pollution, be it rust or scale. And besides, there is no need to call specialized employees, as in the previous cleaning method. In addition, biological products belong to the group of environmentally friendly formulations, both for human health and the environment.

Technique "Pneumohydraulic shock"

In this case, special equipment is also used, through which short-wave, high-frequency pneumohydro shocks are created. Despite the reviews of some people who claim that such measures can harm the heating block, you should not be afraid that the heating circuit itself will be damaged as a result of this cleaning option. And all because the lion's share of the impact force (and this is more than 90%) falls on the coolant flow. This cleaning method is used, in most cases, in enterprises where the risk of plaque and rust is very high, as well as the length of the entire heating pipeline.

VIDEO: Cleaning with a Typhoon air gun

Use of chemicals

This method is most often used to clean the contour of a complex configuration. And if the heating circuit in your house has many turns and drops, then this option will best help get rid of rust, scale and sediment accumulated in the pipeline and batteries.

The flushing liquid in this case consists of two or three types of acids, which are capable of cleaning the pipeline from contamination in just 15-25 minutes, while increasing the usable volume of the pipeline and heat exchangers.

When using chemicals for cleaning, you must be extremely careful. Because it may cause burns. It is best to use protective equipment in the form of goggles, gloves and a mask.

In addition, this cleaning method can remove several millimeters of the main material from which the pipeline and radiators are made. And this, in turn, can lead to leaks. Therefore, before using chemicals, determine the level of wear of all components of the assembly. And if the walls of the line or heat exchangers are already worn out, then it is better to give preference to another option.

The use of one of the above cleaning methods depends on the condition of the pipeline and heat exchangers, as well as on the level of their contamination. And if you correctly carry out the procedure for cleaning the heating unit, then it will serve you for a long time, providing comfortable temperature living conditions.

VIDEO: Flushing the heating system