Cinder block garden house. Turnkey construction of houses from cinder blocks

When you start construction, you want everything to be done as quickly as possible, cheaper and more reliable. All these factors can be satisfied by a house built from cinder block with your own hands. This construction material can be made by yourself. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to roof installation.

Advantages and disadvantages

At some point in time, the cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after the smelting of the metal had to be used somewhere. It was decided to use it as a filler for building components. That's how this one came about fake diamond. But then he was distinguished not by the most good qualities, because from an environmental point of view, he had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept on the street for about a year and only after that put into work. Today the situation is a little different and it seems to be the most popular material for the construction of low buildings. His strengths are:

Long service life. With the right approach, the stone will last about 100 years.
Good thermal insulation. Thanks to the manufacturing method with air chambers, the material perfectly retains heat.
High build speed. Due to the large dimensions, the walls can be driven out much faster than from ordinary bricks.
Resistant to the development of fungus and mold.
Possibility individual approach to sizes.
The material is unloved by rodents and other pests.
A house made of such material is easy to repair.

Disadvantages:

It absorbs moisture well, which leads to a loss of heat capacity.
Poor plaster adhesion to this building block.
The impossibility of erecting a building more than 2 floors.
The need for rapid construction of the roof. The fact is that the expelled walls cannot be left uncovered for a long time, because this will lead to their rapid destruction.
The importance of strict adherence to masonry technology.
The need for a high foundation.
It is important to carry out construction work in dry weather.
Poor tolerance of building shrinkage. In this case, a split is possible not at the seams, but along the blocks themselves.

If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, then there are a few nuances that you should pay attention to. Well, if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions under which it was stored. It is important that this is not an open space where it is exposed to precipitation. It should not have chips or cracks. Using a tape measure, you need to check its dimensions. Parallel sides must match.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. To successfully move in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately maintain proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibrotamper. For this you will need:

sheet metal 3 mm thick;
pipe with a diameter of 75–80 mm;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
roulette;
electric motor to create vibration.

The engine can be used from the old washing machine or from grinder. Large power is not required. The main thing is to correctly place the weight, which will shift the center of gravity.

The sequence of work will be as follows:

Blanks are cut out of metal. Two of them are 200×400 mm, the other two are 200×200 mm.
They need to be welded together to make a small box.
Cut three pieces of pipe 170 mm each. The size is smaller along the length so that the thickness of the bottom wall is at least 30 mm.
Cuts are made along the end of the sleeves to a depth of 50 mm. One of the sides is given the appearance of a truncated cone.
From the other end, cuts are made to a depth of 50 mm. A strip of metal 400 mm long is placed in them. It connects all three elements together.
The ends of the pipes are closed with plugs.
This design is placed in a box and fixed to the walls.
A side is welded along the upper end of the container to make it more convenient to backfill and ram the solution.
Additionally, you can make a mechanism by which the box will rise up. To do this, you can use a profile square pipe. If there is no desire to complicate, then it is enough to weld two handles on the sides of the box.
An engine is attached to the large side. To do this, four bolts are welded to the wall so that their location coincides with the holes on the apparatus body. It is pressed with washers and nuts of a suitable diameter.
Additionally, a cover is made, which improves the tamping. For it, you need a sheet of metal 195 × 395 mm. It is necessary to make holes in it for pipes (they should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the sleeves) and cut into two parts along. This must be done so that it calmly sinks and does not rest against the partition that secures the hollows. The parts are interconnected using brackets made of reinforcement. It is also necessary to make a depth limiter, which will exclude its immersion deeper than 5 cm.
In order to speed up the work, you can combine several of these containers with each other.
Two bolts are welded onto the motor shaft on both sides. This must be done symmetrically. In the future, in order to adjust the frequency and strength of vibrations, it will be enough to screw the required number of nuts.
The final touch will be a thorough polishing and painting. This is necessary so that subsequently the solution lags better.

Today on sale there are many options for ready-made machines. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.

A pledge of strong and resistant to various influences blocks is a properly prepared solution. If a compactor is used, it must be sufficiently dry. If it is incorrect to calculate the proportions of water, then after raising the container, it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, small gravel, slag, etc. To give additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first mix will look like this:

9:1 - cement and slag, which is well sifted so that there are no extra inclusions;
water should be about half of the cement.

Second cooking method:

4:4:1 - industrial granulated slag, crushed stone of small fractions, cement;
water is the same ratio as for the first option.

The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the finished solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it on the ground, it should spread. After squeezing it again, it should hold its shape again.

The best place to work would be outdoors. Under such conditions, the mortar will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is desirable that the place is flat. It can be a concrete path or a lining made of sheet metal boards knocked down into shields, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:

The unit is installed in the place from which the calculation will begin.
The prepared mixture is poured inside. Its quantity must be greater than the actual capacity.
The vibrator motor is turned on for a few seconds. Part of the solution sits down, so you need to add more.
The vibrator starts again for a few seconds. Finishing filling is done and the upper end is closed with a lid.
Sealing is in progress. If the lid has reached the limiters, then you can raise the container.
Full setting takes a period of 4 to 9 days.
Finished products can be stored indoors. You need to move them there after a day of drying on the street. If there is a plasticizer in the composition, then after 6 hours.
For greater convenience, they can be stacked on top of each other.
They will be ready for the construction process in 1-2 months.

Often, partitions are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. For their manufacture, it will be necessary to make a mold according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120 × 400 × 200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as void formers. They should be of such dimensions that the walls are at least 3 cm.

Calculation of the number of blocks

Projects must be approached rationally. It makes no sense to be overly economical, because this will affect the quality of the future structure. There is also no reason for being extravagant. This is especially true for the number of blocks. Calculations should begin with the fact that to determine the thickness of the wall. This size is determined by several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter period time the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40-60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with foam or foam. Laying can be done in several ways:

Half a stone. This does not mean that the block will need to be cut into two parts. This means that it lies along. That is, in the described case, this is a thickness of 20 cm.
In a whole stone. This is the one that lies across, while the wall is 40 cm.
One and a half stones. By simple addition, we find out that this is 60 cm.
In two stones - 80 cm.

Suppose that a project of a future house with dimensions of 10 × 12 m was chosen, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3 × 10 \u003d 30 m 2, 12 × 3 \u003d 36 m 2, now we double these results and add them up, because there are two identical planes. 30×2+36×2=132 m2. So the end result is 132 m 2. We determine the area of \u200b\u200bone block - 0.2 × 0.4 \u003d 0.08 m 2. Divide the total area of the walls by the area of the block - 132:0.08=1650. But this figure is valid if the wall is planned in one stone. If in two, then the end result will be 3300 blocks.

These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done in order to have a small margin. While working with the material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for it.

The calculation of the amount of stone for partition walls is carried out in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and internal ones.

Foundation laying

As mentioned above, this type of design requires a high . In addition, it must be very durable so that in no case cracks begin to form, which will certainly pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:

The area chosen for construction is carefully inspected. It is better to find out in advance in which part of the site the groundwater is at a lower level. She's the one who fits.
Everything that clutters it is cleaned up, the grass is mowed to the lowest possible level. This is necessary to assess the overall slope and markup.
According to the drawing, landmarks are transferred to the area according to the size of the future building.

One peg is driven into each corner.
The correct dimensions are checked. In addition to length and width, diagonals are also measured - they must match so that the shape is correct, and not trapezoidal (if this is not provided for by the project).
Holders for the reference line are made. This will require 16 wooden blocks of arbitrary size, but at least 90-100 cm long. You will need 8 more small boards. Their length should be 10–15 cm more than the width of the foundation. From the boards a crossbar is made for two bars. You should get a design in the shape of the letter P.
Two self-tapping screws are screwed on each crossbar. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foundation.
All elements must be hammered into the ground. It is important to do this at such a level that the screws are at a height of 70 cm above the surface. The order of the supports is two for each corner so that they are opposite each other in pairs.
A fishing line or twine is stretched between the elements. It is more convenient to use a fishing line that has bright color. It is not lost against the background of surrounding objects.
At this stage, it is once again necessary to check the diagonals between the corners that the stretched thread formed.
A trench is being dug. Its depth should be 50 cm below the freezing of the soil.
Sand is poured to a height of 25 cm. It is leveled and rammed well. After that, you need to wet it with water and let it dry. If necessary, add a level.
Another 25 cm is made of crushed stone. This layer is also well compacted. Ramming is best done with a special electric or gasoline tool.

Next, a metal grill is made. For the foundation of the planned height, two or three elements will be required. To work, you need ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10 – 12 mm. It is better to assemble the structure on the surface. Its dimensions should be such that it is immersed in concrete 5 cm on each side. That is, the total length and height must be at least 10 cm less than the length and height of the foundation. Several rods are laid out for a total length. The distance between the horizontal components should not exceed 30 cm. If there are no strips of the required length, then you can get from several. In this case, the binding between them should be at least 1 m. Staples are made from smaller rods. Their height should be equal to the size of the planned crate, and the bent elements should be the width of the structure. They are attached to the lined elements every 30-40 cm. Instead of staples, you can make ordinary vertical jumpers. They are fixed to each other with a knitting wire. Top to inside the same number of longitudinal rods are attached as from below.
Typically, the height of one such structure is 40–50 cm.
Stands are laid out at the bottom of the pit, which will allow the concrete to close the reinforced base from below. For these purposes, bricks or other homogeneous elements can be used. The minimum height is 5 cm.
Formwork is made from edged boards knocked into shields, plywood or other durable material. It must be strong enough to withstand the pressure that the concrete will exert. Be sure to install the jibs, which will be stops from the outside. The distance between the shields must be the same so that the foundation is obtained without sagging.
After preparatory work you need to prepare a solution for pouring. In advance, you need to make sure that there is an assistant and a productive concrete mixer, you can use several. This is very important, because it is necessary to provide a good volume. Thanks to this, the design will turn out to be monolithic, and not puff, which will reduce strength. The composition of the mixture will be 3:1:3 - crushed stone, Portland cement, sand. For such purposes, Portland cement is perfect. The fact is that it contains additives of calcium silicate and gypsum. Thanks to this, a quick setting occurs and strength is ensured. Be sure to add a plasticizer, thus the fluidity and filling of voids will be improved, frost resistance will increase, as well as moisture resistance.

Periodically, during pouring, it is necessary to treat with a vibrator. So the concrete is better compacted and the structure will subsequently gain maximum strength.
During pouring, it is also necessary to try to distribute all the concrete in level. Subsequently, this will help to quickly cope with the pasture of the walls.
If the weather is hot enough, then it is necessary to moisten the surface with plenty of water, it would also be good to cover the foundation with a building film or pieces of roofing material.
With a high curing rate, the formwork can be removed after a week.
It is better to continue further work after a month. It is this period that is necessary for the cement-sand mixture to gain all its strength.

If you decide not to flood so much high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of the construction of the base. This is a continuation of the foundation, which protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before you start laying it, it is necessary to provide for waterproofing. To do this, a roofing material or bikrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should reach 70 cm or more. Then a layer of waterproofing is laid on it again, and only after that the construction of walls begins.

When building walls, the main task is to make them even, without protrusions. The first step on the way to such a result is to determine the highest corner of the foundation. The fact is that during pouring it is difficult to deduce the ideal value. This measurement is made using a water level. In advance, you need to make sure that its length is enough for the length of the foundation.

An arbitrary angle is selected. One flask of the device is installed on it. The other part moves to different ends. Thanks to the difference in the position of the water, you can determine where the highest point is. Laying and leveling should start from here. It is very important to do this, because if you start the construction from the lowest point, you will have to subsequently cut the stones. If this is done with the highest, it will simply be enough to make the seam a little larger.
Having set the starting point, you can do the same for the remaining corners. This will require the same hydraulic level. The task will be to place 4 more stones so that they coincide with the reference in all planes. Additionally, you can check the diagonals.

A fishing line or twine is stretched along the outer edge of the wall. It will help to make the wall flat in the horizontal plane. It is necessary to raise it to the height of one row and, after each new one, rearrange it to the same level. During operation, it is necessary to ensure that the landmark is not pressed or touched by anything, otherwise it will not be of any use.
To maintain the verticality of the wall, you can use several tools. For example, after laying each row, check the plane using the building level. An ordinary plumb line will also serve as a guide. If there is no desire to mess with such devices, then you can build stationary reference points. To do this, they dig into the ground metal pipes that fit close to the wall. They are exposed in planes and fixed. Thanks to them, it will be possible to control the process.
The solution has good thermal conductivity, so there can be significant heat loss due to it. To reduce this value, it will be enough to control its layer. It is better if it does not exceed 1.5 cm.

If you do not have much experience in masonry, then add a special plasticizer to the cement-sand mixture, which will slow down its setting. This will help to calmly expose each element without having to redo it later.
Do not try to close the cavities in the stone with a solution, this will only worsen its properties. If desired, they can be filled with loose insulation.
Every 3-5 rows it is necessary to insert a metal mesh. It will increase the rigidity of the entire structure.

During the laying of the last few rows, you must not forget to wall up the studs. It will be good if you can bend them and bandage them with the seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface to a distance exceeding the height of the Mauerlat beam by 4 cm. The step can be kept at 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of studs. Another option would be to fill the armored belt with the installation of studs in it.

Roof

The installation of the rafter system and the laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after the end of the pasture of the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze the maximum amount of precipitation that can fall, what gusts of wind are. You also need to consider what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect which angle will need to be observed.

If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the slope of the roof must be maintained in the region of 15-20 °. Even with sufficiently strong snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply inflate. In the case when the area is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a spread of 35‒40°. With such a slope, the snow will not be able to linger in large layers.

Looks great on private homes gable roof or all sorts of variations of multi-slope. We will consider an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex designs.

Installation begins with the installation of the base - Mauerlat. They can tie the longitudinal walls on which the rafters will rest. Or install it around the entire perimeter, which will facilitate the construction of the pediment if it is wooden, not brick. To do this, you need a bar with a section from 50 × 150 mm to 200 × 200 mm. It should be placed in the middle or no closer than 5 cm to the edge. A layer of waterproofing must be laid under it, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the wood. Holes are drilled at the locations of the studs. Boards are fixed with nuts and washers or knots when using wire.
At its core rafter system- This is a designer that includes a large number of details. In shape, it resembles the letter A. In this case, the beams act to break, that is, the force is applied in such a way that the walls are under constant stress. This option is not very good for a cinder block house, so it is advisable to use additional connecting elements. They are racks and beds.
The first step is to install the ceiling beams. After that, the entire area can be covered with a film so that rainwater does not get inside the building.
Next, the beds are laid on which the racks will rest. They should run parallel to the Mauerlat. The distance between them will depend on how the attic space will be used. You can make them from the same timber as the base.

Rafter legs are interconnected with nails or nail plates. In some cases, additional metal staples are used. If they need to be lengthened, then it is better to overlap, it should be about 1 m.
Rigels can be two or more. It is important to remember that the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.
The trusses must be the same size to support the plane of the roof. You can collect them both on the building and below. In most cases, the second option is safer and more reliable.
Two finished elements rise up. They are installed at the ends of the roof and fixed with temporary struts.
Three strings are stretched between them. One goes along the upper corner, the other two - from the middle of each side. They will serve as guidelines for how the next trusses will be mounted. Instead of fishing line, you can use a ridge board. It is important to put it on temporary supports and check that it is level in the plane.
All other farms are installed. In order for them not to move, jumpers are mounted, which will then be removed. step between rafter legs it is necessary to observe one that will facilitate the simple installation of insulation.
The entire area from above is tightened with a hydrobarrier membrane.
What material should be used for the crate is usually indicated in the recommendations for the flooring that is planned to be used.
The last step is to insulate the roof. This is usually done with mineral wool. This is a very important stage, because it will reduce heat loss and reduce the cost of different kinds fuel.

It is better to close the gables as soon as possible. This must be done so that the wind does not blow precipitation inward. So moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.

Interior and exterior decoration

It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing works. For the outside ideal solution will be insulated with foam. It is fastened with the help of special dowels-umbrellas. It's better to start from the bottom. First of all, a metal starting bar is mounted. In its role can be a profile for drywall. It needs to be leveled, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled through the insulation sheet using a perforator in the wall. Glue is applied to the reverse side of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with small extension. Each element should fit snugly against the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface with a level. After that, the entire surface is covered with glue intended for this purpose. Together with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The last layer will be decorative trim. It can be bark beetle or embossed plaster.

The house can be sheathed with siding. In this case, mineral wool can also be used for insulation. A product with a high density is suitable, for example, foam. First, the crate is mounted under the cladding. After that, a heater is inserted into the space between the beams. You can fix it to the wall in the same way as the foam.

As noted above, for interior decoration it will be almost impossible to use plaster. But this is not a problem, because you can sheathe the rooms with drywall. This will compensate for any irregularities, as well as apply the desired finishing. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.

It will take a sufficient amount of time to complete all these works. But with good organization and planning, you can meet acceptable deadlines. It's always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.

Video

In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:

Watch the process of laying the cinder block:

A photo

Cinder blocks are a popular wall material. It is often used in the construction industry for the construction of residential, office, utility rooms. Despite some shortcomings, it is considered one of the the best options to build a house.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

Cinder blocks are produced by volumetric vibrocompression of concrete and various fillers: blast furnace slag, ash, gravel, perlite, expanded clay. The properties of the last component depend specifications material, in particular, its density (500 to 2000 kg / m³), thermal conductivity (0.3 to 0.65 W / m ° C), frost resistance (15-35 freeze-thaw cycles).

This material is chosen for building a house due to its affordable price, lightness, volume, and quick masonry. It can even be built without the involvement of professionals. Walls made of this material do not burn well and retain heat well due to the special design of the blocks (there are cavities inside and the structure of the block is porous). But at the same time, do not forget about some disadvantages:

high hygroscopicity, so the house needs high-quality heat and waterproofing;
uneven surface, which requires mandatory finishing;
the composition may contain harmful substances, you need to carefully choose a supplier and require a quality certificate (in artisanal conditions it is unacceptable);
monolithic blocks are heavy, which can increase transportation costs.

Everyone will determine for himself a cinder block, but its shortcomings can be easily eliminated with a competent approach to building a house.

Foreman's advice: for finishing the walls of a cinder block dwelling, it is better to use not a traditional cement mortar, but a special one with increased strength. It has a more reliable grip on the surface, and conduct interior work(painting, wallpapering) will be much easier.

The technology of building a house from cinder block

You can build a cinder block house with your own hands. If you correctly approach the issue of wall insulation and waterproofing, then the owner will practically not feel the possible disadvantages. It is desirable to build a strip, columnar foundation on rocky-sandy soil and be sure to apply a layer of water-repellent material on it. Wall laying is carried out according to the same principle as brickwork: first we form corners, mark window and door openings and draw rows under the level. A cinder block house cannot be built without reinforcement. Each 3-4 row must be strengthened with an iron mesh, iron rods are used. The minimum thickness of a cinder block wall is 0.9 m.

The air gap between the wall and the outer cladding is filled with a heater with a thickness of at least 100 mm (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam). You can plaster the inner surface with your own hands with a water-repellent solution, sometimes they put an additional layer of insulation and only then fix the lining, paint, glue the wallpaper.

Foreman's advice: when building a house from a cinder block, it is risky to use reinforced concrete floors (unless you install an iron belt over the wall blocks), it is better to opt for wooden or slabs.

price issue

Many opt for this material precisely because of its basic advantages: affordable price, lightness, speed of masonry. The cost is lower than that of a brick. A full-bodied cinder block with dimensions of 400 * 200 * 200 can be bought for 35-60 rubles. apiece, hollow - about 40 p. Peregorodochnye will cost even cheaper. While one unit of brick costs about 12 r.

To build a house, for example, 10 × 10 m with 3 rooms and an attic, you will need approximately 2200 blocks. If we take the average price per piece - 50 rubles, we will spend 110 thousand rubles. for the purchase of wall material. But when laying a brick wall with a thickness of 2 stones per 1 m², 204 pieces will go. bricks. We multiply the area by this amount and get a total of 20,400 bricks. Now we take the average price per piece - 12 rubles. and do the same arithmetic operation. It turns out that we will need to spend 244,800 rubles on a house with an area of 100 m², and this does not include the cost of the solution, which is more than when using the first material.

Do-it-yourself cinder block house is a reliable and profitable solution. Individual disadvantages of the material can be easily eliminated by competent installation of heat and waterproofing materials. They will provide good operational properties dwellings, and the blocks guarantee its strength.

Video

Invented at the beginning of the 20th century, cinder blocks have firmly entered modern construction as the most versatile, budgetary and unpretentious wall material. Cinder block is used for construction bearing walls houses with a height of no more than 3 floors, installation of partitions, laying a strip or column foundation under garages, kiosks, change houses, for the construction of underground and above-ground service premises, arranging attics in multi-storey buildings.

Before starting to draw up a project for a cinder block house, it is necessary to take into account the properties, advantages and disadvantages of this material:

1. Cinder blocks are made by vibrating compacting a mixture of M500 cement with water and filler in special forms. The most typical list of fillers is granulated slag and granite/gravel screenings. This technology provides the maximum reduction in the cost and consumption of the binder without a large loss of strength. Cinder block is the cheapest type of wall stone.

2. The compressive strength of the cinder block is consistent with brick - M50 - M100, solid blocks - up to M150. The material is absolutely not subject to shrinkage and gains strength over time. But the fragility and low tensile strength does not allow the use of cinder blocks in the construction of walls with significant transverse loads.

3. During solidification, the material acquires a noticeable porosity - this facilitates laying work, reduces the requirements for the foundation, reduces thermal conductivity, and increases sound insulation properties.

4. It is absolutely not necessary to involve professional builders for laying the cinder block. The volume, duration, complexity of laying and measuring operations are 3-4 times lower than when building a brick wall.

5. The cinder block does not enter into chemical reactions with the atmosphere, does not burn, rodents and insects do not settle in it. Guaranteed service life of the cinder block at right choice material - 15 years for non-plastered walls, 50 - with bilateral protection, 100 or more if periodic plaster restoration is carried out.

6. The main disadvantage is high hygroscopicity and low frost resistance class (F15 - F50). Wherever there is no way to protect the cinder block walls of the house from prolonged contact with water, they quickly lose all insulating qualities and crack after freezing. Therefore, bilateral plastering is almost mandatory and external insulation of the cinder block is desirable. It is unacceptable to use this material in walls that are subject to periodic flooding.

7. The cinder block construction plan must be strictly tied to the weather seasons, the optimal time for laying is the end of spring - the beginning of autumn. When leaving for the night or weekend, the stacked blocks protect from possible rain. Before winter, it is necessary to have time to mount the roof on cinder block houses.

8. A cinder block, especially a hollow one, greatly reduces strength under the influence of chasing with impact tools, and when you try to gouge a through round hole, an entire segment can collapse. You need to think over the bookmark scheme in advance engineering systems and make careful cuts with a grinder.

9. The presence of metallurgy waste in the composition makes the material non-environmental. Harmful substances released in small quantities disappear within a year after production, therefore it is recommended not to populate and not to plaster the walls until the end of the first winter after the construction of the box.

Overview of layouts

1. The project of house 1 is a real one-story mansion 15x10 with a total area of 220 m2 with a high spacious attic. A significant part of the first floor is occupied by a garage and office space, on the opposite side there is an exit to a large terrace. In the living room and kitchen located next to each other with an area of 23 m2, two dozen guests can be received at once. For convenience, there is a bathroom.

Going out to the second floor, we find ourselves in a spacious hall with a large viewing window in the entire wall. The project of the floor provides for the presence of two children's rooms of 12 m2 and a bedroom of 22 m2. There are also 2 bathrooms and an office. The entrance to each room is located in the central hall. 1 nursery and office have adjoining balconies.

2. House project 2 - the best-priced version of a 10x10 house with an attic only above the residential part of the 1st floor, with a total area of 120 m2. The project provides for a garage of 20 m2, a small hall, 1 bathroom for the whole house, a living room of 22 m2 with a corner staircase, a stove and access to the terrace. The kitchen is quite small, only 12 m2. On the second floor there is a bathroom and 2 rather small bedrooms - 17 and 9 m2. This area is clearly not enough for big family.

3. House project 3 - the best for a large family, but does not have a garage. This is real two-storey house 10x10 with an area of 180 m2, with many rooms in which family members can find privacy if necessary. On the ground floor there is a bathroom, a boiler room, a small kitchen, a separate free-use room, a spacious entrance hall of 11 m2, and a living room of 18 m2. The project of the 2nd floor includes 3 bedrooms 12, 12 and 19 m2, and 2 spacious bathrooms. One of the bathrooms can only be accessed through the master bedroom.

How to calculate the cost?

The cost of building a house from cinder block will include:

1. Designing a detailed scheme of the house, taking into account engineering systems. The order of the project will cost at least 25,000 rubles.

2. Excavation to a depth of 0.5-1 m under the house - about 400 rubles per m3.

3. Reinforcement and pouring of a tape monolithic foundation, 0.5 m wide for a wall of 40 cm - about 8,000 rubles per 1 m3 only for materials and their delivery.

4. Backfilling the underground with crushed stone and sand - about 600 per 1 m3, including delivery. At this stage, you can include a basement in the project.

5. To order a complete arrangement of a turnkey strip foundation will cost approximately 17,000 rubles / m3 of concrete work.

6. Buying a cinder block. A typical size is 190x190x390 mm. Given a mortar thickness of 10 mm, it is very easy to calculate the material consumption per square meter - 12.5 blocks per 19 cm wall, and 25 blocks per 39 cm wall. The price is approximately 30-35 rubles apiece. The project must include a fight and marriage in the amount of 5-10%.

7. Purchase of cement and sand. The technological rate of consumption of the solution is 1 cubic meter per 4.5 m3 of the wall. For its manufacture, you will need 6 bags of M400 cement and 1.1 cubic meters of sand (1 to 4 volume ratio) with a total price of 1800 rubles.

8. The price of floors and roofs.

9. The most significant point of the project is the cost of heating, sewerage, water, electricity and gas supply systems.

10. Windows, doors, plaster, finishing, insulation.

Additionally, the project should take into account the following points:

Cannot be laid on cinder block concrete floor. If necessary, an armored belt is made of longitudinal beams.
In the walls you need to lay reinforcement through the row. This will lead to costs in the amount of about 300 rubles per m3 of masonry.
To further lighten, insulate and reduce the cost of the wall, you can use blocks with high voids (up to 40%). But they are more fragile and poorly suited for building a house above 2 floors.

The estimated price of a turnkey house is 20,000 - 24,000 rubles per 1 square meter, excluding the attic area. Although this option is often more expensive phased construction with the involvement of various performers, it practically does not require investment own forces and nerves. In addition, there are nice bonuses like free design of unique houses.

How to build a house from cinder blocks?

To build a house from cinder blocks, it is not necessary to turn to professional builders, you can study the cinder block construction technique and do everything yourself. First, develop a project, calculate how much material you need, and you can get to work.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before you start creating a project and building a house, you need to learn about the pros and cons of cinder block buildings.

Advantages of cinder block houses:

Saving money. This material is much cheaper than brick and wood, especially if you produce it yourself.
A cinder block house does not require a massive foundation.
The material does not impose special requirements for storage and transportation.
The construction is reliable and does not differ in quality from houses built from other materials.

But there is also two major drawbacks:

The material is afraid of water, so you can build a house only in dry weather, and then plaster the walls well.
To ensure the required level of sound and heat insulation, it is necessary to choose materials responsibly. If this stage of construction is not performed correctly, moisture will penetrate into the cinder block.

The foundation for the house of cinder blocks

The main requirements for the foundation: it should be high to protect the house from moisture, which the cinder block is so afraid of, and well insulated. If the house is one-story and without reinforced concrete floors, then the foundation does not have to be made superstrong.

For building a foundation for a cinder block house you will need: crushed stone, cement, gravel, rebar, sand, concrete mixer, cinder blocks, opata, level, hydro and vapor barrier material.

This process is carried out in several stages:

Dig a trench and make a bed of sand and gravel about 50 cm high.
Install the formwork and make a reinforced frame.
Prepare a concrete solution: mix 3 parts of sand and gravel and 1 part of cement. Fill them with the prepared structure.

The construction of the basement, if provided, can be started after 7 days, and the construction of walls can only be done after complete drying (approximately 1 month).

Walling

First, the corners are set so that the walls are perfectly even. One cinder block is placed in each corner, then it is leveled with a building level. Pull the twine along which you will lay out the walls. Prepare before starting work:

a mallet to knock out cinder blocks;
a trowel for removing excess mortar at the seams;
plasticizer (this material is added to the solution to increase its strength and ductility);
circular saw or hacksaw for sawing cinder blocks;
orders, plumb lines and spatulas.

The cinder block is laid in one of the traditional ways:

tychkovy (in one stone);
spoon (in half a stone);
one and a half stones;
two stones.

Important to remember that the laying of cinder blocks can only be done at temperatures above 15 degrees. After the preparatory work, build the first row of blocks. The height of the seam should not be more than 1.5 cm, otherwise this will lead to a deterioration in thermal insulation properties. Do not fill voids in cinder blocks with cement!

When erecting the first three rows, check the wall as often as possible with a level, it must be strictly vertical. Cinder blocks are stacked with an offset of ½ block.

To avoid cracks and make the structure stronger, builders advise using reinforcement. To do this, you need fittings and electric cutters or wall chasers. With the help of electromills, recesses are made in cinder blocks, reinforcement is inserted into them and cement mortar is poured. This procedure is repeated in every fourth row.

Video of building a house from cinder blocks, masonry.

When the walls are erected, you can start building the roof. This process cannot be postponed for a long time, so as not to expose the cinder blocks to the detrimental effects of precipitation. The same applies to external and internal finishing works.

How to insulate a house?

In order to be comfortable in the house in cold weather, you need take care of building insulation And. Experts say that it is better to insulate the building from the outside, as this guarantees 70% of the effect, sometimes internal insulation is not even required.

Before internal insulation, a vapor barrier layer is mounted on the walls and ceiling of the building, after which you can use mineral wool or styrofoam. Vapor barrier is not required for exterior walls.

If you want to save on insulation, then use foam. This is the most cheap material, in the future it is plastered and painted. You can also buy polystyrene foam, which has a low level of water absorption, so you do not need to install a vapor barrier layer.

Wall insulation with foam plastic and decorative work is carried out in 5 stages:

The walls are plastered.
The foam is attached.
Reinforced mesh is being installed.
Work is underway to level and finish the walls.
The building is being painted.

For painting, it is better to choose acrylic or silicone plaster. And if you are not limited in finances, then for insulation it is better to purchase polyurethane foam - modern material, which is applied to the walls by pouring or spraying. The result is a coating without seams, it does not pass cold air and moisture.

How to calculate the number of cinder blocks per house?

If you are building a house from cinder blocks, then you first need to calculate the amount of material. Those who produce the building material themselves can make the missing amount at any time, it is only important to remember that the blocks will take time to become strong.

To calculate the number of cinder blocks, you need to know the thickness of the wall. It may differ depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is being built. IN middle lane a thickness of 20-40 cm is enough, and in order for the house to keep warm in harsh winters, the size must be at least 60 cm.

When calculating remember basic construction terms: half a stone (20 cm), a stone (40 cm), one and a half stones (60 cm), two stones (80 cm).

We will carry out calculations according to the most common parameters that are used in the construction of a house from cinder blocks. For example, you need to build a building 9x7, the height of the walls is 3 meters. The area of one cinder block is 0.08 m (0.4x0.2).

The first thing to do is to calculate the number of blocks per 1 meter of wall. For this, 1 / 0.08 sq.m., it turns out 12.5 pieces. The wall will be built from two rows, so 12.5x2 = 25 cinder blocks. Now let's calculate the area of the house: (9+9+7+7)x3=96 sq.m. 9 and 7 are the length of the walls, and 3 is the height. For each square meter 25 cinder blocks are needed, which means that for the construction of the whole house: 25x96 \u003d 2400 pieces.

Openings are not taken into account in the calculations, but this is not necessary. Cinder block is a fragile material, so you need to take it with a margin.

The price of building a house

How much does it cost to build a cinder block house? You can build a house from cinder blocks with your own hands, but do not forget about the development of the project. You can do it yourself or leave it to the professionals. The main thing is to take into account the climatic conditions and features of the soil, the stability of the building.

The average cost of one cinder block is 35 rubles. For a 9x7 house, you will need 2400 pieces, that is, this material will cost 84 thousand rubles. But this is only the erection of walls, also do not forget about the construction of the foundation, the construction of the roof, sound and heat insulation, and finishing work.

Is it worth building?

Many of them are satisfied with the construction process, because the house can be built during the holidays. Save on the material itself and the mortar, which takes half as much as on brickwork. Houses made of this material look original, warm in winter and cool in summer.

cinder block houses- These are reliable and durable structures. For their construction, it will not take much time and financial expenses, especially if you produce cinder blocks yourself. But in order for the building to serve for a long time, and to live comfortably in it, you need to choose the right materials for insulation and decoration.

Appearing less than 50 years ago, the technique of building structures from cinder blocks has gained wide popularity. All thanks to simplicity and high speed installation. To make the construction even more economical, many decide to build a cinder block house with their own hands. With a minimum of tools, following the technology, you can build a warm, reliable, durable structure.

For construction, a certain number of cinder blocks will be required. You can make them yourself. This will require special forms in large quantities, since drying will take place directly in them. With the help of filler, water and cement, a mixture is created that is distributed over the forms. To form voids in blocks, you can apply glass bottles or metal and wooden blanks.

The entire manufacturing process will take about a month. Therefore, if the speed of construction of the building is important to you, and the necessary funds are available, then it is better to purchase ready-made material. It must be certified and have the relevant documents. Experts recommend paying attention to the following points:

Use in the production of environmentally friendly fillers.
These include shell rock, shavings and crushed stone. All ligaments with cinder block must be the same and without defects.
You should carefully study the qualitative characteristics, such as resistance to low temperatures, strength, thermal conductivity, so that building a house from a cinder block with your own hands brings the maximum result.
Take an interest in manufacturing technology. When purchasing material for the construction of a residential building, pay attention to the use of a vibrocompression machine. If other devices were used in the production, then such cinder blocks are suitable only for outbuildings.
Pay attention to the color of the blocks. Gray indicates a large amount of cement. If a different shade prevails, then this is a sign of the use of a large amount of filler, which is unacceptable for such a building material.

Connoisseurs of the construction business advise checking the quality before building a house from a cinder block with your own hands. This can be done with an ordinary 1.5 cm nail. If it enters the bottom of the block, then its quality is in doubt. You can also drop it from a height of 1.5 meters. A reliable cinder block will remain intact or its corners will slightly go astray. If the material crumbled or crashed, then it should not be used for construction.

Calculation of the number of blocks

The result of building a house from cinder concrete with your own hands from scratch largely depends on the correct calculation of building materials. It should be borne in mind that masonry can occur using different technologies:

in the floor of a stone (20cm);
in one (40 cm);
in two (80 cm);
one and a half (60 cm).

This choice will depend on the climate zone. In a temperate climate, a stone floor may be enough, but in regions with harsh winters, a thickness of at least 60 cm will be required.

The required number of cinder blocks is calculated according to the following algorithm:

First you need to calculate the cost of building materials per meter of wall. The standard area of one cinder block is 0.08 m². That is, 12.5 blocks are required for 1 m. If the laying of a cinder block house with your own hands will take place in two rows, then we double the resulting figure.
Next, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe entire building. To do this, its perimeter must be multiplied by the height.
To find out the total number of cinder blocks, you need to multiply the amount for one meter by the resulting area.

When making calculations, do not take into account window and door openings. This will be a reserve, since rejection or damage to building materials is possible.

Foundation laying

When building a house from a cinder block with your own hands, it is worth laying a fairly high foundation. This is due to the fact that under the action of moisture, the blocks can collapse, as a result of which the entire structure will suffer. The minimum height must be 70 cm. The best option considered to be a tape type foundation.

The main stages of laying the foundation:

The pit breaks out. In cases where a basement is planned, it should be deepened.
A pillow of gravel and sand is laid half a meter thick.
Mounted crate and metal frame.
The cement mortar is poured.

If it is planned to build a basement, then it will be possible to start it a week after pouring. The house itself is built after complete drying. This may take about a month. Important! It is necessary to take care of waterproofing between the plinth and cinder blocks to prevent their damage from moisture.

Walling

At this stage, the most important nuance is alignment. Therefore, after laying the first row, it is necessary to carefully check this moment with the help of a level.

As for the laying of cinder blocks, it is carried out quite quickly. You should have at hand a mallet for tamping, a trowel to remove excess mortar and a spatula.

It is necessary to monitor the thickness of the applied solution. It should not exceed 1.5 cm. Otherwise, the thermal characteristics of a self-built cinder block house will deteriorate. To increase the strength of the mixture, a plasticizer is added to it. It will also help slow drying down, resulting in less frequent re-mixing of the mortar.

It is necessary to lay the blocks at a temperature not lower than 15 ° C in dry weather.

The rows are stacked with an offset on the floor of the block. To increase the strength of the structure, you can use reinforcement, which is inserted into specially prepared recesses in cinder blocks every 4 rows.

How to insulate a house?

Since external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation, it is worth taking care of this already at the construction stage. In addition, the installation of insulation will create reliable protection for cinder blocks. The most economical and sufficient effective option is considered foam insulation. If you carry out internal insulation using this material, you will need a vapor barrier. It is not needed for external thermal insulation.

You need to do the following:

Putty the walls.
Attach the heater. This can be done on a metal bar, the role of which can be played by drywall profiles. Styrofoam should be tightly laid so that there are no gaps between the seams.
Apply a reinforcing mesh to prevent the appearance of defects during mechanical action.
Level the surface and finish. Finishing work is carried out using bark beetle or decorative plaster.
Paint the walls.

It is also possible to insulate with mineral wool. In this case, you can sheathe the house with siding. If financial possibilities allow, then you can purchase polyurethane foam. This insulation is applied by spraying, as a result of which there are no joints, therefore, thermal insulation characteristics are improving.

Roof

On the finished frame of a cinder block house with your own hands, it is necessary to mount the roof in a short time. This is necessary to protect the cinder blocks from negative atmospheric phenomena. This process can be carried out simultaneously with warming.

The most common roofing option is the gable roof. The installation process includes the following steps:

To begin with, a Mauerlat is mounted, the so-called base, on which the rafter system will rest. Here you should think about waterproofing to prevent wood from rotting from rain and snow.
The rafter system is assembled. This process is standard. The rafters form the shape of the letter A. But in the case of cinder block houses, additional racks and beds must be used so that the walls are not under constant stress.
Next, ceiling beams are installed.
Then farms are mounted. It is important to choose their sizes correctly so that they can withstand roofing material. You also need to make sure they are identical.
After that, the hydraulic barrier is stretched. To do this, use a special membrane.
The installation of the crate and the covering with roofing material is carried out.
The final stage is warming. It will help reduce heat loss by another 15-20%.

Advantages and disadvantages of cinder block houses

Cinder block housing is very attractive due to its features:

It is quickly erected, while the costs are minimal when compared with other materials.
There is no need to lay a massive foundation.
The material used for construction is easy to store and transport.
The quality of the erected house is in no way inferior to structures made of other materials, if the technology is followed correctly.

But with all the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

Moisture is detrimental to cinder block.
This material does not provide an adequate level of sound and heat insulation.
The material does not differ in attractiveness, such as wood.

It is worth noting that these disadvantages are easily compensated. Proper laying of the foundation, construction in dry weather will help solve the problem with moisture. At the construction stage, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, which will help achieve the required level of heat and sound insulation. And modern Decoration Materials will give an attractive appearance housing.

A do-it-yourself cinder block house is an excellent alternative to buildings made from other materials, which helps to save money and get quality housing in a short time.

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