Laying a wooden floor in a garage, installation technology, what materials to choose. How to make wooden floors in the garage with your own hands How to make wooden floors in the garage

It only seems at first that it doesn't matter what the floor will be in the garage. As you begin to understand, a sea of nuances immediately arises. In the article we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages options and how to make a floor in the garage with your own hands.

You can make a concrete floor in the garage with your own hands. It is important to know how

What floors in the garage are better

As you can see, there are not so many options. Let's take a closer look at their advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages and disadvantages

Earthen floors in the garage are very simple to install, practically do not require material investments, you can replace a damaged section of the earthen floor at any time. This, perhaps, is all the pluses. With more serious cons:

in dry weather they are dusty, in rainy weather they get wet;
spilled can be removed only by replacing part of the coating;
cold, there is no possibility of warming;

The earthen floor in the garage can be made as a temporary option or as a base for a wooden one. Such floors can be found in garages in summer cottages, where the car is located for a very short period of time. In major garages, they still make a more solid foundation.

The floor in the garage of paving slabs can be considered as one of the options for earthen. It's just more practical. There are more layers during its construction, as well as more money is required for its construction - more crushed stone and sand are poured onto the ground, in which tiles are laid. But the functionality of this option is much higher. Cons - possible high humidity, and if the sand and gravel cushion is not compacted enough, the floor may “sag” in places of greatest load, and if the quality of the tile is low, it can collapse under the influence of aggressive substances, which are more than enough in the garage. Another minus is that dirt clogs into the seams, it is not easy to clean, and the problem of absorbency remains: paving slabs are hygroscopic.

The wooden floor in the garage does not suit everyone due to the fact that it is fire hazardous and prone to decay. Although, if the groundwater is low and the floor is done correctly, it will not rot. The fire hazard can be combated by impregnating the boards with flame retardants - agents that reduce the combustibility of wood. But these are not all shortcomings. It is also not very pleasing that dirt, spilled liquids, which have a far from the most pleasant smell, are absorbed into the boards. The floor of a wooden garage floor looks very untidy, and there is no way to remove all this from wood fibers.

The advantages of a wooden floor include the fact that they are warmer than the other two options. In addition, when installing a floor from boards in a garage on logs, the gap between them can be covered / laid with heat-insulating materials, which will make it even warmer. It is difficult to talk about the price: in some regions, boards, even thick ones, are inexpensive, in others they cost a lot of money.

The concrete floor in the garage is the most common and popular. It is durable and can be insulated. And just the concrete coating is left in last years not so often - there are many materials for finishing the floor in the garage, which make its operation much more comfortable.

The disadvantages of the concrete floor in the garage have already been named: this is a large amount of work, a long period of time required for its installation, a rather high price, even if you make a concrete floor in the garage with your own hands. If the final coating is the same concrete, then the absorbency of liquids and odors is also added, which are also impossible to remove. An unpleasant moment - concrete absorbs moisture from both the soil and the air. For concrete, this is bad - it only gets stronger, but for a car - not good. So at a high level ground water need to do good waterproofing, and, possibly, a top coat that does not allow moisture to pass through. Great option- polymer or rubber coating for the garage.

How to make an earthen floor

First, all construction debris that may accumulate there during construction is removed from the garage. Next, the entire fertile layer is removed. Completely all, to the "clean" soil without vegetation and roots. The thickness of the layer can be different - somewhere 10-15 cm, and somewhere 50-60 cm. Regardless of this, the entire fertile layer must be removed. It has a lot of organic matter, microorganisms, insects. Organics will rot, spreading the appropriate odors, and microorganisms - contribute to the appearance of mold, fungi, insects - are also not the best neighbors.

Having reached the clean soil, they level it, pour the same clean soil in layers of about 5 cm (you can dig a hole somewhere nearby or bring it in). Each layer is well compacted. Well, if there is a vibration platform, a roller or some other similar device. If not, you can make a manual rammer yourself. There are two options:

thick steel plate, with a T-handle welded in the center:
a cut of a log of a solid diameter in a crossbar-handle nailed at the top.

Each layer is compacted with this rammer. So, ramming in layers, they fill up the pit to the ground level, it can even be a little higher. The top layers are molded, creating a slight slope towards the door so that water that has entered the garage drains.

To create a more usable floor, the upper layers are replaced with clay, but it is very difficult to compact it, but it is necessary to achieve a high density. Another option is to pour a certain amount of gravel on the compacted earthen floor and drive it into the ground with a rammer. Here, most likely, you will need a vibration platform. But it turns out a solid foundation in which even the wheels do not leave marks. The advantages of this option also include the fact that there will be much less dirt in the garage.

Paving slabs in the garage

The beginning of work is exactly the same: we remove the fertile layer, level and ram the soil. Next, add gravel. The minimum layer is 10 cm, and which one you get depends on the depth of the resulting pit. Just keep in mind that there will still be a layer of sand of 7-10 cm on top, and paving slabs, the thickness of which should be more than 6 cm. This is so that you can correctly calculate the height of all layers and bring the floor level to the required level.

Sand, crushed stone and all other materials are poured in layers no more than 5 cm thick, leveled, then rammed to a high density. A layer is considered compacted if no footprints remain on it.

To exclude or reduce the suction of moisture from the soil, a layer or, preferably two, waterproofing must be added to this sequence. It can be roofing felt, other rolled waterproofing material, dense polyethylene film (density not less than 250-300 microns), hydro-vapor-insulating membrane. The material is spread so that one canvas overlaps another. The strips are glued together. If this is a film, you can use double-sided tape, if roofing felt or other similar material, the edges can be smeared with bituminous mastic. Where to place waterproofing? Better, probably, between soil and sand, and also between sand and dry mix for laying paving slabs.

In general, for a garage, you can use a layer. This is a non-woven material that is used in Europe in the construction of roads. It perfectly redistributes the load, and the floor in the garage will never sag under the wheels if there is geotextile in the pie. AT this option it is better to lay it between the second layer of sand and the dry mix.

Put paving slabs and on a concrete screed and on asphalt, which is also sometimes laid in the garage. Then a pile of dry backfill or sand 5 cm thick is poured, leveled, lightly tamped, and tiles are laid in it.

To make it easier to navigate with the thickness of the existing layer when installing floor layers in the garage, their dimensions can be beaten off on the walls of the garage. If the distance from wall to wall is small, these marks will suffice. If the area is solid, in some places you can drive in pegs, on which you can also mark with the thickness of each layer. This greatly simplifies the process. After all the layers are covered, the pegs are pulled out, the holes are covered with sand and rammed with at least the same peg.

Another trick: so that less dirt clogs into the seams between the tiles, the sand is mixed with cement, the gaps between the tiles are filled with this mixture, the remnants are carefully swept away. Then you need to take a spray bottle and moisten the surface well, leave for a day or two. If you see that somewhere there is cement on the surface of the tile, it is better to immediately wipe it with a rag. If he "grabs" you will suffer for a long time. Why not hose down the floor? Because the drops are too large and will leave ruts. From the sprayer, it is more mist that flies, not drops.

We make a wooden floor in the garage with our own hands

And in the case of a wooden floor in the garage, there will be no differences at the first stage: it is necessary to remove the fertile soil, level and compact the bottom of the resulting pit. Then it is fashionable to lay a layer of waterproofing on the bottom (roofing material, waterproofing, film, membrane), on it a layer of sand or gravel. Sand and gravel need to be compacted, but the density is not so critical, but it is important to bring the backfill "into the horizon" - you check how evenly the "pillow" lies with the help of a level, but not small, but not less than a meter.

with insulation

Logs are installed on this bedding - a beam of large section. Step - no more than a meter. It is advisable to guess so that the wheels of the car are above the log or not far from it, and the rest can be distributed as it will.

Before laying, the logs are impregnated with a protective impregnation against decay (for wood in direct contact with the ground), and then treated with flame retardants (reducing flammability). From decay, the logs can be saturated with mining, but their flammability will only increase. So this is not a very good option, albeit cheap. You can also use sleepers. They are already impregnated, but have a persistent characteristic smell.

Further, the space between the lags can be filled with insulation. The best option is polystyrene foam. If the budget allows, take extruded with a density of 35 kg / m3. It does not rot, fungi and microorganisms do not multiply on it, mice do not eat it. In addition, it does not pass or absorb water. In one fell swoop and insulation and waterproofing. The layer thickness is at least 5 cm, but 10 or more is better. If there is still room, you can fill in broken bricks, expanded clay. These materials are not the best solution, as they are hygroscopic (absorb moisture). Instead, you can use new material- granulated foam glass. It is many times “warmer” than expanded clay, does not absorb water, and does not have such a high cost. In principle, only foam glass (in granules or batt) can be filled between the lags. You'll be fine too. But in any case, it is not necessary to fill up the entire space, under the very boards. A ventilation gap of at least 5 cm is required. Then the boards will not rot.

Boards are laid across the installed logs. This is an ordinary edged board with a thickness of 40-50 mm. When laying, do not try to lay them very tightly. It is better if there is a gap of 3-5 mm between the boards. That's all, the do-it-yourself insulated wooden floor in the garage is finished.

Legs on poles

There is a variant of the "cold" wooden floor in the garage - on the posts. A layer of gravel is poured onto the leveled soil, compacted. They put them on gravel with the same calculation, so that later they can lay logs on them. The distance between the columns is about 1 m. That is, if the width of the garage is 4 m, then two columns at the edges and two in the middle. Since the distance between the lags is also 1 m, then such rows of columns are located every meter. After two weeks, the solution is seized and logs can be laid on the posts.

Roofing material is laid on each column in two layers. It can be replaced with coating with bituminous mastic (twice). If the height of the columns turned out to be unequal, pieces of wood, plywood and other similar materials can be laid between the lags and columns. It is important that they hold tightly, and the lags are set to the level. Next up is floor boarding.

concrete floor in the garage

The most versatile floor is concrete. And it's not just about finishing it, but also about how it can be done. Speaking specifically about how to make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands, you must first of all start from what kind of foundation you have. If it is a monolithic slab, there is very little work. If the surface is not smooth enough, it remains to fill in the leveling screed, and then proceed to laying the finish coat. If the differences do not exceed 1 cm per square meter, you can immediately lay any of the suitable finishing materials.

Layer order

With any other foundation, the beginning of work coincides with all those described above: we take out the fertile layer, level it, ram it. Further, also without news: we pour crushed stone in layers, ramming, the total thickness of crushed stone is from 10 cm. The next layer is sand.

But further - there may be options. If you want an insulated floor in the garage, lay thermal insulation material. Better - extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3. It will support both the weight of the screed and the machine. You can't say the same for everyone else. You can use a bulk heat insulator such as expanded clay, but it is ineffective, and even absorbs moisture. Then under it it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing. Better - granular foam glass. It has low thermal conductivity and does not absorb water. Ordinary expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) and mineral wool it is problematic to use - under the weight they can be crushed, which will lead to a loss in the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

A film is spread on the thermal insulation layer, a reinforcing belt is laid on it. Here again there are two options: tie it from reinforcement (8-10 mm in diameter in 20 cm increments) or lay a finished metal mesh (wire from 6 mm with a cell size of 10 cm). If you choose a mesh, you overlap it with at least one cell and tie it together (with a knitting wire or plastic clamps). Pour everything with concrete (more than enough), level well.

To make it easier to level concrete in the garage, beacons are set at the right level. These are flat strips - special metal, metal pipes, in extreme cases - wooden planks (they are far from always even, and even moisture can lead them). They are set so that their upper face is set to the same level. The distance between the planks is 40-60 cm less than the length of the rule. The solution is poured in portions. Leaning the rule on the beacons, it is stretched, leveling the surface. Gradually fills the entire perimeter. Please note that for the normal setting of concrete, it needs a temperature of about + 20 ° C and sufficient humidity. That is, pour concrete floor in the garage better in summer. But if during this period it is too dry, you will have to water the screed - a sufficient amount of moisture is also important. To make it evaporate less, the screed is covered with a film or burlap. If with a film, each time watering the screed, it must be removed and spread out. If burlap is laid, you can water from above. Under these conditions, the screed will gain its design strength in about 28 days. After that, you can already move on - lay the finish coating.

Another option in the video.

For some car owners, the garage is the place where he spends a very significant part of his free time. And therefore it is quite logical that there is a desire to ennoble it somewhat. You have to start from the floor. Why? Yes, because you walk on it, drive a car, lie under the car, put things and tools. In this article, we will dwell on how to make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands - quickly, efficiently and inexpensively for the family budget.
Why will we make wooden flooring? And because it is the most the best way: the tree is relatively inexpensive, easy to work and install. And since this is a room where a car, gasoline and chemicals are stored, then the covered floor must be resistant to these factors. In order for the wooden floor in the garage to serve you for a long time, carefully read the tips below.

Training

First, you need to prepare the garage itself: take out all the excess, throw out all the garbage. The room should be covered with plastic wrap. The purchase of wood flooring must also be taken very responsibly. Wood should not be too dry or vice versa - too wet. This will affect how and how much it will serve you. When choosing boards to do the installation of the floor in the garage with your own hands, be sure to make sure that there are no (well, or at least fewer) various defects on the boards - blue, knots, cracks, rot, etc. Boards must be taken with a thickness of at least 3 cm, but it would be better if you take it with a margin. If the boards are of decent thickness, then there should be a minimum distance between the lags. If there is an opportunity and means, then it is better to immediately take the material prepared for laying - the so-called grooved boards:

Thanks to special docking elements - protrusions and grooves along the length of the board - you will not have to deal with gaps during installation and installation. Such a wooden floor will be easy to process and paint! If you have a standard garage, then you will need 6-meter boards.
In order for the floor covering to go for a long time, it must be placed on brick or concrete posts, on either concrete base. By the way, the last option is the most convenient and fastest - you don’t even have to align it especially. If in the future there is a desire to replace the boards with tiles, then this will not be difficult either!
The latter option is most suitable for making a do-it-yourself coating, since when replacing it, you can use boards or tiles.

Laying wooden floor on concrete

In order to make the floor in the garage with your own hands, you will also need the so-called "lags".

In their quality, it is best to use a beam with a section of 10 × 10 cm.
I would strongly advise wood with an antiseptic or flame retardant before installation. This will protect it from instant fire and rotting in the future.
It is necessary to impregnate the boards on the street with a brush or roller. After impregnation, they must also be dried.

Garage floor made of grooved boards

If you have a concrete base, then you will first need to lay the waterproofing.

To do this, you can spread the usual roofing material, overlapping stripes. At the same time, the distance between the lags should be 0.4-0.5 m.

If this is not done, then the floors will be deformed under the wheels of the car due to its large weight.
The first logs are made at opposite walls at the same distance. Then a thread is pulled between them and intermediate logs will already be mounted along it. To ensure that the surface is even and without distortions, be sure to use the building level. If you are faced with the fact that the base itself is crooked, then you will have to put wedges of wood under the logs.
The logs, placed according to the level, must be firmly attached to the concrete base with the help of long dowels.
Next, you can start laying the floorboard. All of them should be of the same thickness - thanks to this, the load will be distributed more or less evenly.
Lay the floor boards tightly and end to end, avoiding gaps.
To ensure that the boards are knocked down tightly during installation, use spacers. Wedges are perfect for them. Reiki to the lags are attached with nails or self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself garage floor made of chipboard or plywood

To make the floors in the garage yourself from sheets of plywood or chipboard, you still have to first pour the leveling concrete layer. The thicker it is, the longer your coating lasts. If a small layer of concrete is expected, then the base should be reinforced with a metal mesh with a bar diameter of at least 1 cm.
To create a durable wooden floor for the garage, you should buy the thickest plywood, and not simple, but not moisture-permeable.
Chipboard boards are not recommended for use due to the fact that they do not tolerate temperature changes and therefore quickly collapse.
After the plywood laying is completed, close the joints between the walls of the garage and the coating with a regular baseboard. The floor itself is recommended to be first treated with drying oil and then painted.
If this is not done, then in the future, during the operation of the car, it will be difficult for you to remove oil and gasoline from the surface of the garage flooring.

Laying the floor on the ground

Another option that owners usually resort to metal garages- this is laying a wooden floor in a garage on the ground.

To do this, you also need to prepare - remove the fertile soil layer from the inside of the foundation and replace it with a sand-gravel mixture and clay. Compact the embankment well. The edges of the wooden beams will rest on the sides of the foundation. As supports between the beams, it will be necessary to make brick columns. To do this, dig holes 40 × 40 cm so deep that they coincide with the deepening of the main foundation.
The first row of supports from the wall is usually done in increments of 50 cm, and the subsequent ones at a distance of 100 cm. There should be at least 55 cm between the beams.
A layer of coarse gravel of about 20 cm should be poured into each of the pits. Then concrete with a fine fraction should be poured into it to ground level.
After the concrete hardens, lay out the brick columns in 3 rows. Make sure they are the same height.
Between the brick and concrete, on top of the supports, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing roofing layer. So that the floor covering in the garage does not lead in the future, the open area of \u200b\u200bclay must also be closed with roofing felt waterproofing.

For beams, you need to take a beam 20 cm thick. To increase rigidity, you can put it on the edge.
Logs should be made perpendicular to the entrance so that there is a gap of 3 cm between them and the wall. wooden flooring placed along the direction of travel of the machine. Then they must be securely fastened. The beams are placed on posts so that there is little space under them for air circulation.

Underfloor heating in the garage

In order to make it comfortable to work in the garage even in the cold season, it will not be superfluous to immediately insulate the future floor. This is easy and inexpensive.
First, a draft floor is placed on the beams. Next comes waterproofing from a polyethylene film, on top of which a heater is placed.
For insulation, it is better to take sheet, roll or backfill material. Extruded polystyrene foam is considered the most effective.

It will also need to be covered with waterproofing and sheathed along the logs with a floorboard.
After the flooring in the garage is completed, it will be necessary to clean it from construction dust and dirt. It might even be better to go over it with detergent.
Good luck!!!

Car owners are very scrupulous about arranging their garage. This is due to the fact that the premises are used not only to protect the car from external threats, but also for other incidental purposes. For example, repair work or hanging out with your friends. There are many available on the market. However, not all of them can boast such a deliberately comfortable advantage as the presence of good heat-conducting properties. And in this regard, the wooden floor in the garage is admirable. Next, we describe why wooden flooring is so good and how to make it. with my own hands.

The share of wooden floors in the total mass of garage floor coverings is steadily growing every year. This is due to the undeniable advantages of wood, which are worth listing:

The thermal conductivity of the material makes the inspection or repair of a car much more comfortable, especially if it needs to be carried out in a supine position;
The durability of wood will be much higher if the material is pre-treated with protective mastic or special means that protect it from moisture and fire;

Important. Modern wood impregnations allow wood to absorb excess moisture into the premises, protecting it from dampness while maintaining physical characteristics. floor covering.

Ease and speed of replacement of damaged flooring elements;
A competent approach to choosing the thickness of the floorboard will provide the required strength, which is in no way inferior in this regard to other types of coating;
Ease of installation wooden planks allows you to get by on your own, without the involvement of experienced professionals;
Wooden floors in the garage do not generate dust;
The budget cost will pleasantly please car owners.

The disadvantages include the following points:

Attractiveness of wood to insects and some species of rodents;
The susceptibility of the material to odors and stains, which are very difficult to get rid of later;
Susceptibility to the harmful effects of moisture, if the wood has not previously been treated with moisture-resistant agents;
Depending on the type of wood, the price of the finished coating can vary greatly.

Wood floor protection

Since most of the disadvantages of wood flooring can be reduced to nothing if certain rules are followed, it is worth paying special attention to them. We are talking about the use of special varnishes or impregnations, which can significantly increase the life of wood, making it better. performance characteristics. In particular, such as resistance to moisture, increased wear resistance, improved fire safety and many others. All these special means can be classified into the following types:

Antiseptics - penetrating deep into the wood and protecting it from the destruction of the substance. They are also an excellent protection against small rodents, decay processes. Give wood flooring fire retardant properties;
Wood varnishes - forming protective covering on the outside of wooden boards and preventing it from abrasion, physical damage;
Paints - they play a rather decorative role, however, they also protect the surface of the coating.

Order protective work must follow a certain sequence of steps. So, first of all, the wood is thoroughly dried, then treated with antiseptics, and only after that you can proceed to applying varnish or paint.

The procedure for laying a wooden floor, surface preparation

Installation work must be carried out on a solid foundation so that you do not have to regret later on the money spent. That is, first of all, the installation of a wooden floor in the garage provides for surface preparation. Order preparatory work in that case it should look like this:

Purchase required material in the required quantity;
Cleaning the surface from dirt and excess objects;
Laying concrete screed with reinforcing mesh;
Laying a waterproofing film;
Layer of heat-insulating materials;
Installation of transverse logs;
Installation of wood flooring;
Applying special protective equipment to the floor from the boards in the garage.

To carry out such work, the following materials will be required:

Medium-sized crushed stone for the base of a concrete screed;
Cement with river sand for mortar;
Metal mesh with wire for reinforcement;
Roofing material or a special film can act as waterproofing;
Mineral wool or expanded clay as a heat insulator;
Wooden beam for mounting transverse logs;
Wooden boards for flooring.

Note. On the market, you can find already tongue-and-groove boards with special grooves provided. Their acquisition will help to seal the joints.

Choice of wood

For arranging a wooden floor, it is not recommended to use red rocks or a beautiful walnut, it is better to use them for other purposes. Strong oak or durable species are most suitable. coniferous trees also known for their abrasion resistance. The material of the boards should be free of cracks and taken with some margin.

Sand-cement screed

Before laying the floor screed, a half-meter layer of soil should be removed and the plane should be leveled with a level. Next, you should tamp the surface of the subfloor, if it is loose, pour a layer of sand, and on top of the same - gravel. A reinforcing mesh made of metal rods is installed on the resulting "pillow". They must be evenly tied with wire to form square cells. The resulting mesh is installed at some elevation from the top layer of gravel, and then the concrete solution is poured. The thickness of the liquid layer should be about 10 cm. While there is an opportunity, the surface of the solution is carefully leveled, after which they are waiting for drying.

The degree of humidity is determined by placing a piece of film on the surface and fixing it with tape. If, after a few days, condensation or large drops are still present on the reverse side of the film, some more time is required for drying. Next, you should clean the plane and lay the waterproofing materials with a slight overlap on the walls. The roofing material must prevent the penetration of moisture, for which its seams are covered with bituminous mastic.

Cross lags

Bearing beams with an average section value are installed at a distance of half a meter across the garage room and connected with dowels to the screed. For a strong fixation it is possible to use metal corners with a small step. Be sure to leave a gap between the walls and the ends of the logs, since wood tends to become wider or narrower, depending on the level of humidity. Between themselves, the bars are connected by boards, and the places of all fasteners are lubricated with bituminous mastic. Also, it will not be superfluous to have a gap between the surface of the screed and the lags, which will ensure free air circulation. By means of wooden spacers it is also possible to eliminate unevenness of the cement screed.

Note! Do not forget that depending on the width of the bars and the thickness of the boards, the floor level will rise slightly. This should be provided so that the resulting drop near the entrance to the garage does not come as a surprise.

thermal insulation

Since the garage is planned to be used during the cold season, the required level of comfort cannot be achieved without this procedure. In order to preserve heat, as a rule, mineral wool or expanded clay is used. Thermal insulation is placed as tightly as possible in the cells between the installed lags so that there is no free space left. The situation is similar with expanded clay, which should be compacted before laying a transparent film on top of it.

Laying boards

Directly laying sheet pile products is much easier than all previous work. It starts from the far corner and is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the ends next to each other do not match. key point here is the density of the joints, to achieve which they are treated with silicone sealant.

Finishing flooring

After all work is completed, the dirty wooden floor in the garage should be thoroughly cleaned and treated. For this, construction debris and dust are removed, then the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic. Further, it becomes possible to apply protective paintwork materials on the surface of the boards.

Advice. To increase the service life of the flooring, it is recommended to additionally lay rubberized flooring (floorboards) in the traces of the wheels, that is, in the direction of the car. They will be fastened with self-tapping screws in pre-drilled holes.

Conclusion

These recommendations are a universal answer to the question of how to make a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands and are applicable as instructions for laying this flooring. Although the installation work may not look the easiest, nevertheless, a competent approach to their implementation will provide a warm and durable floor covering. The environmentally friendly floor will best friend car owner who likes to tinker with the device of his car. The material has both its advantages and disadvantages, but knowing about them, they can be leveled. Or maybe choose?

Some box owners don't pay much attention to garage flooring, preferring to leave hard-packed soil or clay. This approach will eliminate the hassle associated with the arrangement of the coating and its repair. However, the earthen floor is not particularly durable, therefore, under the influence of constant loads, it is easily deformed. It also absorbs gasoline and other substances, the smell of which is very difficult to remove from the box.

Most best option for a garage - a floor made of concrete or wood. Such coatings are characterized by high mechanical strength, wear resistance and attractive appearance. Let's dwell on the creation of wooden floors in more detail, since they look more interesting and have the ability to retain heat, unlike concrete surface, which almost always remains cold.

Before proceeding directly to the arrangement of the flooring, it is necessary to choose the right wood to create it. Definitely worth abandoning the idea of using mahogany and walnut in boxing. A good option is conifers, which are distinguished by excellent strength and wear resistance. But it is best to opt for oak, as an oak floor will last much longer than other wood floors.

When choosing a material, you must follow a few simple rules.

Before arranging the floor, wood must be treated with flame retardants - means to increase the fire resistance of the material, as well as substances that prevent the occurrence of putrefactive processes.

Flame retardants increase the fire resistance of wood

Garage wood floor installation

As a rule, floor structures on logs are installed in car boxes, which allow you to evenly distribute the load throughout the flooring. With the help of floors on logs, you can hide some defects in the base, as well as communication systems, such as an electric cable. However, this design "raises" the floor by 6-10 cm, so it is not entirely suitable for very low garages. The technology for installing a wooden floor in a garage depends on the existing base, which can be concrete or earth.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not need preliminary preparation, so you can immediately proceed directly to the installation of a wooden floor. Experts give several basic recommendations for this process:

only material with a moisture content of no more than 10% can be laid;
installation of the log is carried out with a certain step distance, which often varies from 40 to 50 cm;
beacon logs are mounted first on a concrete base, the step between which is approximately 2 m;
fixing the lag is carried out with the help of dowels, the distance between them is 50 cm;
intermediate logs are laid in the same way as lighthouse ones. Only after their installation proceed to laying the flooring.
floor boards are placed perpendicular to the joists and fixed with screws or nails.

In fact, in the presence of a concrete base, it is not at all necessary to opt for a lag structure. If the subfloor does not differ in serious differences in height and does not have large-scale defects, then thick floorboards are quite suitable for arranging the coating. Before starting the installation, the blocks are treated with drying oil and painted, after which they are laid on a clean concrete base. Laying is carried out along the entire length of the garage, boards are fixed with screws or nails.

Even a person without professional training can handle the installation of a wooden floor on a concrete base in a garage, the main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and adhere to technology.

Installing a wooden floor on a subgrade

If the base in the garage is not concrete, but is ordinary soil, then the installation of a wooden floor becomes a somewhat more complicated process, which will require patience and some skill. In this case, it is necessary to prepare the base, and the laying itself will be carried out in several stages:

The soil surface is leveled, for this you can use a rake, as well as an ordinary garden hoe.
A sand and gravel cushion is created: first there is a 3-4 cm layer of sand, then a gravel or expanded clay layer of the same thickness. In principle, the second layer can be somewhat thicker, since it is created from materials whose fraction is many times larger than the size of sand grains.
The laid sand and gravel cushion is watered and then well compacted. You can do this with your hands and feet, although it will be much more effective to use a specialized device - an electric rammer (or a vibrating plate, a manual roller, a manual rammer).
Lags are mounted, which are wooden bars holding the entire floor structure. Since the base is not strong and easily deformed, the logs are installed on pre-laid flat boards, and they must be thick enough not to sag during operation.
Bases for laying logs on the ground (pits for posts, if necessary, are dug out before crushed stone and sand are backfilled)

All wood used should be impregnated with special compounds to give the material better moisture resistance, because the fact that it is not resistant to moisture and is subject to putrefactive processes is no secret to anyone. It is better not to neglect this recommendation!

As a support for the future floor, it is not at all necessary to use only boards, they can be replaced with brick or concrete pillars - they will do the job perfectly. Such supports are mounted in rows, the distance between which is 80 cm. The step between the posts themselves should be 30 cm.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Logs on the ground

Among other subtleties of installing a wooden floor on a soil base in a garage, the following points can be distinguished:

it is desirable to have the logs perpendicular to the movement of the vehicle, and the floor boards themselves - in the direction of movement. Compliance with this rule will help make the structure more durable, and the floor will become much stronger;
floor boards should have the same thickness - about 50-60 cm. You should not take thinner blocks, otherwise the floor will simply sag under the weight of the car and quickly fail;
before installation, the boards must be dried and coated with antifungal agents. Their reverse side, which will be in contact with the sand and gravel cushion, must be treated with waterproofing compounds.

After arranging a wooden floor, many garage owners leave it in its original form, which is very in vain, because wood is a material that needs caring attitude. The floor should be covered with drying oil and painted, because this is the only way to protect the flooring from oil and gasoline stains, which are almost impossible to remove.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 1

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 2

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 3

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 4

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 5

Chipboard and plywood floor in the garage

There is another way to create a wooden floor in the garage, which involves the use of plywood or chipboard. These materials will serve as the basis for the leveling layer, the thicker it turns out, the larger the logs will be laid. Having finished with the installation of beacons, you can proceed to install the log, fixing them on the base with glue or self-tapping screws.

In places of fixation, plywood pieces treated with glue are placed. A sheet material is laid on top of the resulting mesh, which levels the floor. It is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws, about 9 pieces come out on 1 sheet. A moisture-proof film is laid on the leveling layer, and then insulation boards. All this is covered with floor boards. Thus, the floor in the garage becomes perfectly flat and very durable.

Making a decision to create a wooden floor covering in your car box is not an obstacle to arranging a viewing hole. You can organize it in several stages:

A pit of the required depth is created, the bottom of which is laid out with flat bricks placed perpendicular to the wall surfaces.
The walls of the inspection pit are lined with brick, which is located with a rib.
space between brickwork and the soil is filled with concrete mix, this is done as the height of the walls grows.
Brick laying is carried out until it reaches the level of the lag. Thus, the chopping blocks will partially lie on the masonry. In the remaining space, a frame is mounted into which the boards covering the pit are placed.
Metal corner laid on the walls of the inspection pit

Arranging a viewing hole in a garage with a wooden floor is quite simple, you just need to make a little effort and follow the recommendations received.

Video - Inspection pit in a garage with a wooden floor

Features of the wooden floor in the garage

The wooden floor in the garage is an environmentally friendly coating that, with proper installation and care, will delight the owner of the box for more than one year. However, the decision to create a wood floor in the garage cannot be called unambiguously correct, at least, some motorists think so, who are categorically against the use of this material. An analysis of the pros and cons of this coverage will help you make the right decision.

The advantages of choosing wood for flooring in the garage include the following factors:

wood has a long service life, especially after impregnation with protective agents. Wooden floors can serve for about 10 years without deforming or collapsing;
if part of the coating has been damaged, then it can be relatively easily replaced without dismantling the entire flooring;
wood is hygroscopic, that is, it absorbs moisture from the air, which helps to maintain optimal humidity in the garage, and this has a positive effect on the condition of the vehicle;
wooden floor, unlike concrete pavement, retains heat well, so working on it is safer for health. Wood as a flooring is often chosen by people who repair their cars on their own;
thick in strength batten not inferior to concrete screeds, therefore it can be used even in boxes for small trucks;
on the concrete floor dust is formed, with a wooden coating this problem will not arise.

Wooden floors in the garage also have their drawbacks, which include the ability to absorb odors, susceptibility to putrefactive processes, and low fire resistance. However, all these disadvantages can be easily offset by the use of special impregnations that make the performance of wood much better.

Wooden floor after painting

Summing up, it should be noted that the wooden flooring in the garage is a rather controversial solution, which has its own advantages and disadvantages. To give preference to it or not depends on the needs of the car owner. If he often has to work in boxing, then it is better to opt for wood than to risk health, lying on a cold concrete screed. And to preserve the appearance of the coating, you can use special rubber sheets or ruberoid strips, along which the car will drive in and out.

In a building like a garage, everything is important. This includes walls, roofing, garage doors. But few people pay due attention to such a detail as the floor in the garage. Serious loads are placed on the floors - first of all, this is a car that presses its weight on the flooring. Also, these are various mechanical and chemical influences. The car is not only stored in the garage, but it is also serviced and repaired there - often during work, various, sometimes quite heavy tools can fall on the floor. Its durability depends on how well the structure is made. Also, floors in garages can suffer from leaks of fuels and lubricants and various technical fluids.

It follows from this that the design must have a high level of strength, increased wear resistance, as well as resistance to chemical and mechanical stress. The appearance of the flooring is also important to many. There are many designs of floors - each has its own characteristics.

Sex Varieties

Based on the requirements that are provided for the floors in the garage, we can distinguish concrete pavements, structures made of ceramic materials, wooden structures, as well as self-leveling floors that are popular today.

Concrete floor

Concrete screeds are especially popular among motorists and garage owners. The device of the floor is multi-layered. Such a screed fully complies with all the requirements that are provided for the garage floor.

Reinforced concrete floor is the maximum of reliability. Such a base is resistant to moisture and dampness. It cleans up easily with a hose. Also, this coating is not combustible, which reduces the risk of fire to almost zero. Of great importance for many is the cost of creating a coating - the materials for creating such a screed are not expensive. To equip such a garage floor, you will need sand, gravel, waterproofing materials, cement, reinforced mesh. This option is easy to implement and making the floor in the garage with your own hands is not difficult.

To organize a concrete screed, the foundation is first prepared. Often it is the ground. The top layers of this soil are removed. The depth should be approximately 30-40 cm. Then sand is poured into the resulting pit. The layer of this material is made small - about 10 cm. The sand is poured with water, and then compacted using a vibrating plate or other hand tools. Then it is leveled with a concrete mortar with a low cement content in it. After the solution dries, waterproofing materials are applied. It is very important that the waterproofing goes to the walls.

Next - the resulting site must be reinforced. So, a mesh with a cell of 5 × 5 mm is laid. It is recommended to slightly raise the mesh above the screed. To control horizontal level, special beacons are installed. They are located at some distance from each other. It is also imperative to leave a gap between the screed and the wall in case the structure begins to expand under the influence of climate.

The future floor in the garage is done with a slight slope towards the exit. The solution is poured between the beacons, and then leveled using the rule. Later, the beacons are removed, and the solution is poured in their place again.

This design has many advantages, but with all this, there are also disadvantages - the concrete will flake off and dust. To avoid this, you can paint the screed. You can also lay rubber tiles.

Ceramic floor

While a concrete garage floor is the least expensive solution, ceramic-based flooring is a bit more expensive. Lay tiles on a pre-poured concrete screed. However, professionals do not recommend doing it right away. Be sure to wait until the garage shrinks.

If the screed is perfectly even, then it remains only to apply a layer of priming solutions on it, and then you can proceed to the installation of the tile itself. Ceramics does not like low temperatures, so if the building is not heated, then it is recommended to use porcelain stoneware instead. It tolerates low temperatures much more easily.

The finish coating is not laid on the mortar. There is a special glue for this. Adhesive composition should not be on the outside of the tile. Special crosses are inserted between the tiles. Evenness of laying can be controlled using a level. After three days, grouting work can begin, and after 14 days, the surface is cleaned and the garage can be used.

Such a surface also fully complies with all the requirements for the floor in the garage.

Bulk coating

This is a special finish coating based on polymeric substances. It has unique characteristics. Unlike ceramics, polymer floors are not afraid of frost, moreover, they do not smell and do not produce dust. Their appearance is very presentable. And to make such a floor in the garage with your own hands will not be special work. Filling technology does not require special skills.

Wooden floors

The wooden floor in the garage, despite the high environmental performance and high thermal insulation performance, is excellent appearance did not become particularly popular. Despite this, many make just such designs. The cost of such a floor is low, the complexity of installation is also low. The floor has a high fire hazard, and its service life is about 5 years, however, if damaged areas are replaced in time, then this is a good choice.

Features of wood floors

Motorists are divided into two categories. The former believe that the wooden floor in the garage is an economical and optimal option, while the latter are ardent opponents of the former.

However, wood has many advantages. So, the durability of a tree can be quite high if it is treated with special impregnations. With these substances, the service life can be increased to several decades. At the same time, the floor will not rot and deteriorate.

In case of wear of some sections, they are easy to replace - there is no need to redo and renew the site completely. In addition, such repairs do not require special costs and labor.

The wooden floor in the garage also perfectly absorbs excess moisture. This is additional protection for car body. Wooden flooring is not hazardous to health, unlike the same concrete. Sometimes you have to lie under the car - it's much more pleasant in a tree.

If you use a thick board and a large beam, then in terms of strength such a coating will be in no way inferior to a concrete screed. The wood can withstand even small commercial trucks perfectly. There is nothing easier than making a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands. Installation is much easier than arranging a concrete screed. And one more advantage - the wood will not dust.

With all the advantages of wood, there are also disadvantages. So, the tree perfectly absorbs the smells of fuels and lubricants. This is strongly felt when the heating is turned on. Also, the tree rots and is very susceptible to rodents and microorganisms. Wood, even in itself, is a very combustible material, and if the floor in the garage is saturated with gasoline, oils and other substances, the risk of fire increases markedly. in garages with wooden floors Welding is not recommended.

Let's see how to make a wooden floor in the garage yourself.

Arrangement of wood floors

Often, wooden floors in the garage are mounted directly on the ground. Therefore, the appropriate technology will be applied during the arrangement. The design can be either double or single.

We create the basis

The first step is to remove the fertile layers of soil in the inner part of the base. It is also necessary to prepare a mixture of sand, gravel and clay and pour it into the resulting pit. Experts recommend carefully compacting this pillow.

For the arrangement of the floor will be used wooden beams. Their edges will rest on the foundation. Between the beams it is necessary to install special supports in the form of columns. To do this, small holes break out under them. The first row of posts from the wall are set at a distance of 50 cm. Between the remaining posts, you can make a distance of 1 m. A distance of 50 cm is recommended between the beams.

Gravel of coarse fraction should be poured into each hole. The layer should be made about 20 cm high. Further, the hole is poured to the ground with a concrete solution. When the mortar hardens, the masonry of the column is made of red brick. This will be the main support for the wood floor in the garage.

Be sure to lay waterproofing on the basis of roofing felt between the bricks and mortar, as well as at the top of the supports. In those places where there are no pillars, open areas are also covered with roofing felt or film.

We install beams

The floor is under significant load from the weight of the machine. Therefore, for wooden floors in garages, it is recommended to use more thick timber. So, its thickness should be from 150 × 150 mm or more. You can also use wooden sleepers.

The beam is laid with an edge - this is done to increase the rigidity of the structure. Logs are mounted perpendicular to the gate. Flooring, on the contrary, is done along the movement of the car.

Fix the lags exactly on the level. If there is a need to correct the slope of the floor in the garage, you can apply lining. Also, do not forget that between the wall and the logs, it is necessary to observe expansion gaps from 2 to 3 cm. Along the edges of the room for beams, it is necessary to install supports with a height of 10 cm or more. Installation can be carried out both in the usual way, directly, and along the entire perimeter. Free space is left under the beams - this is done for natural air circulation.

Warming process

If there is a need for laying insulation materials, then a subfloor is laid on the laid beams. Next - spread waterproofing materials. Then you can lay the insulation - suitable foam, backfill or roll materials. Mineral wool will also perfectly insulate the floor in the garage.

From above it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing materials again. Then the finished floor is laid.

Laying the floorboard

Such wood floors are best made from special floorboards. Their thickness is 50 mm. A medium-sized room may require up to 1.3 m3 of material. It is very important for the floor in the garage to acquire well-dried wood. Otherwise, there is a risk of deformations and cracks in the floor.

As you can see, there are many options for making the floor in the garage with your own hands. Many of these options do not require special costs, and their installation is not too laborious. As for wooden floors in garages, this decision is quite controversial. If you often have to lie under the car, then this is the best choice.

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