When strawberries should produce a crop - terms for different varieties. What strawberries bear fruit all year round

Remontant strawberry varieties grow well not only in areas with a warm climate. They can be grown in the Moscow region, in the Urals and even in Siberia. They do not stop fruiting even after the onset of frost.

"Elizabeth II"

"Gigantella"

"Albion"

"Selva"

The universally recognized queen of berries is strawberries. Every gardener looks forward to the first harvest of strawberries. It is necessary to follow all the rules for care in order to obtain successful results. It is necessary to choose a suitable soil, a variety of seedlings, regularly carry out pest prevention and water the plant.

Remontant strawberry

Strawberries are represented by multiple varieties and varieties. In order for it to yield several times a season, purchase a remontant variety. Such species can be grown almost throughout Russia.

Elizabeth II

This variety is large-fruited. Possesses high transportability. Can produce 3 crops per season. Some gardeners get their fourth crop in the fall. The pulp is dense, sweet. Fruiting begins early - at the end of May.

Gigantela

This variety bears fruit all season, but does not tolerate heat and drought. You can cultivate the plant in greenhouses. This will make it easier to create suitable conditions for the variety. The berries are really gigantic - up to 100 g. Harvest - from May to October.

Albion

This variety is best suited for indoor cultivation. Ripening begins in May. Fruits until the end of October. The shape is conical. A distinctive feature is a great resistance to diseases.

Selva

This variety is popular for industrial cultivation. Abundant yields, excellent drought tolerance. High disease resistance. It can be cultivated both in a greenhouse and in an open place. The weight of the berries is up to 50 g. The only drawback is that the taste of the berries is inferior to other varieties.

Planting material update

When choosing a variety for growing strawberries in your area, you need to remember the cyclical nature of fruiting. In the first year of planting, the plants will not bear fruit - this is a new plant. The following year, strawberries are just beginning to gain strength and there is no need to expect a high yield from it. Only in the third and fourth years can one be proud of the results obtained. This is the most productive period and strawberries bear fruit to the maximum.

In the fifth year, as a rule, the plant begins to shrink and gradually die out. It happens that a certain variety lives longer, but the average age of strawberries is 5 years. Timely replacement with new planting material will reduce the likelihood of infection of plants, as well as significantly improve fruiting rates.

Tip: for a uniform harvest, you can divide the strawberry bed into three zones and plant the plant according to the time of its fruiting. Thus, every year you will receive a new crop.

Choose a variety

Experienced gardeners advise changing strawberry varieties systematically. This is connected not only with the acquisition of experience, but also with the fact that pests adapt to special means fight them. In addition, breeders regularly develop new varieties.

Over time, new and improved types appear on the market. Right choice varieties for planting is half the success. After all, each variety has certain characteristics, more or less suitable for a site in an area with climatic conditions, soil type.

The best way out is to buy several varieties, grow them trially and draw the appropriate conclusions. The variety you like can be propagated in your area.

How not to fall for weedy strawberries

Sometimes an inexperienced gardener can accidentally acquire weed strawberry varieties. It can be Suspension, Bakhmutka, Zhmurka, Dubnyak. By the nature of growth, such strawberries are distinguished by aggressive reproduction and a powerful vegetative system. Such plants as do not take care of them, they will not be able to give a harvest.

Some representatives of weedy strawberries do not bloom at all, others bloom, but do not tie. If berries appear, they are small, tasteless. hallmark this kind of plant is powerful root system and active growth of bushes. The plant gives a lot of whiskers, takes root well, but one cannot expect a harvest from such a strawberry. Moreover, multiplying, weed strawberries stifle cultivated species, gradually displacing it from the site. These aggressive specimens must be uprooted immediately.

Correct breeding

As a rule, when planting strawberries for the first time on the site, they use the plant purchased on the side planting material. Sometimes they use their own seedlings.

In order to properly prepare the seedlings yourself, you need to do this during the harvest period. In order for planting material to have great potential for fruiting, you need to carefully look at the mother bushes. The best specimens can be used to obtain seedlings.

The bush must be powerful, and fruiting is not just abundant. Multiple pea-sized berries will not give a good result. It would be better if these are some of the largest berries on the bush. Having noticed the best bushes, they are marked with pegs. The most productive plants are healthy bushes with big amount uniform in size, large and healthy berries. Such plants will be the best planting material for bookmarking. Subsequently, the selected seedlings give a good harvest. What genetic potential is inherent in the plant for fruiting, such will be the harvest.

Once sockets appear on the marked bushes, there is no time to waste. The quality of planting material may deteriorate. The most productive mustache will be from the first row. Subsequent sockets for seedlings are not suitable, they will be weaker.

Choosing the right place

For planting seedlings you need to choose the right place. It should be well lit and drafts should not walk on it. Otherwise, in winter, the culture is likely to freeze out.

It is desirable that the soil be loamy, black earth or sandy loam on the southwestern slopes. Strawberries are not very fond of heavy and acidic, although fertile soils. The selected area must be cleared of weeds and carefully inspected for the presence of pests in the soil. There may be strawberry nematode, wireworm, Colorado potato beetle. To disinfect pests, you can use a solution of ammonia water (20 kg per 1 weave). Good for weeds chemical drug Roundup. In autumn, it is necessary to dig the site as deep as possible so that the larvae of insect pests freeze out.

For the largest strawberry harvest, it is necessary to plant seedlings in the spring. If strawberries are planted in the southern region of Russia, then it is better to plant seedlings in late summer or early autumn. In the south of Russia it is so hot that planting strawberries in July will not give positive results. Sometimes the air temperature in the middle of summer reaches 40 degrees. Naturally, under such conditions, even if you create a shadow and water, the seedlings will not survive. Pre strawberry patch must rest before landing. It is desirable that this be the vacant land on which peas, beans, onions, garlic, and greens used to grow.

planting seedlings

Before planting seedlings, the place must be properly fertilized. This can be done with manure humus and peat. To preserve moisture, it is necessary to mulch with organic material, straw, sawdust, needles.

When choosing seedlings for planting, you need to rely on the following principles:

• The root neck must have a diameter of at least 6 mm.
• The root must be fibrous, white color, its processes should be about 5 cm long.
• On a bush of seedlings there should be at least 5 leaves.
• It is undesirable to store seedlings for a long time before planting.

If the seedlings were purchased from a nursery in special pots, it is advisable to keep a clod of earth on the roots, as far as possible not to disturb it. If the planting material is not in the ground, you can use a clay mash. Before planting, you need to dip it in a mixture of clay and water so that the seedlings take root as best and as quickly as possible.

Tip: to make clay talker, you need half a bucket of red or orange clay. It is necessary to fill the clay with water and let it soak. Stir the solution, it should be like gruel.

After planting seedlings, daily watering is required for a week. Then the land is irrigated as needed. We must not forget about the subsequent loosening. The earth must be properly enriched with oxygen. If the weather is dry and hot, mulching will help. It prevents the plants from dying and drying out.

plant inspection

In order for the culture to regularly bear fruit, it is necessary to be very attentive to its condition. When anxiety symptoms action must be taken as soon as possible. One of the signs of the onset of the disease may be drying and shrinking of the leaves. The leaves become a characteristic yellow color. These are signs of a strawberry mite. You need to start fighting with him immediately, until healthy bushes are infected from him.

To do this, it is necessary to remove all diseased bushes and take them out of the site or burn them. In other plants, you need to cut off all the leaves, leaving only the core. Plants can be treated with a solution of karbofos (1/2 spoon per bucket of water). It will be good to spray strawberries with a solution of garlic for prevention (crush 2 heads of garlic and add to a bucket of water).

Empty flowers and lack of fruit

Sometimes gardeners are faced with an incomprehensible situation. All strawberries bloom, but the fruits are not tied. There are several reasons for this:

• Plant damaged by frost. A darkened strawberry may indicate this.
• Weedy strawberries could get on the site. It needs to be removed urgently.
• Weevil infestation. This can be signaled by fallen stems and ovaries of the plant.
• Lack of pollinators.

Important care points

Self-pollinating strawberry varieties are suitable for growing on garden plot. But you can increase fruiting by self-pollination. To do this, you can use a paint brush or a cotton swab. It is best to carry out the procedure at noon, in calm weather. If there are plenty of insects on the site, and the bees actively fly over the strawberries, then additional pollination is not required. These fruits will have excellent taste and the same size. The harvest will be bountiful.

Tip: Experienced gardeners have taken note of the use of yeast for top dressing. The solution is prepared from 1 kg of natural pressed yeast and 5 liters of water. Insist for several hours and water each bush under the root. The proportion is 0.5 liters per plant.

Some gardeners use bee bait. To do this, dissolve honey in water and pollinate strawberry flowers with the resulting solution. The solution is prepared at the rate of 1 liter of water per teaspoon of honey. The mixture is well stirred and sprayed with a plant from a spray bottle.

It is necessary to monitor the irrigation of the soil very carefully. As a rule, garden strawberries love water. But excessive irrigation is also detrimental to her health. Berries are affected by gray rot. It often happens that the rains do not stop. This also negatively affects the taste of the berries. They become watery and sour in taste. Additional cover on top with a film can slightly correct the situation.

Watering methods depend on the age of the strawberry and its growing season. Freshly planted seedlings are best irrigated by sprinkling. During the period of berry ripening and fruiting, it is recommended to water under the root or use the system drip irrigation. Potassium is needed during the period of active flowering. To do this, it is recommended to feed strawberries with a solution of bird droppings. You can use mullein, potassium nitrate.

If the grower knows when the strawberry is in production, he can correctly follow all the procedures for preparing and caring for the plant.

Perennial plants are the favorites of any gardener. Having planted them once, you can enjoy flowering shoots for several years. Unfortunately, many flowers already begin to fade by August, and so you want to extend their flowering period in order to see the riot of colors again. In fact, it is quite possible to cause a wave of the second flowering, it is only important to follow some rules.

Tricky tricks for re-blooming

The main rule is to monitor the inflorescences and remove those that begin to die off in time. If this is not done, then the wilting will be long, and it drags on for some plants up to one and a half months, and at this time the flower does not look at all as attractive as we would like.

The plant will also gratefully respond to the introduction of nutrients, especially immediately after the removal of wilted inflorescences. In this way, the grower not only nourishes the plant, but also pushes back its natural wilting cycle to a later date. To do this, it is best to use potash fertilizers, which provoke the formation of new buds. It is very important that fertilizers are never applied during the first flowering, otherwise the wilting process may then be delayed.

Some plants need to be pruned after the inflorescences wither almost to the stem. For example, a peduncle is cut off from a delphinium, and then fed, well watered and the same procedures are carried out as in spring. Around the end of August or the beginning of September, new inflorescences can already be observed. Of course, the second flowering will no longer be as lush, but on the threshold of autumn it is incredibly pleasant to see such a joyful picture.

Prolongation of flowering

In this case, we are talking about the desire of the gardener to enhance the only flowering that almost any plant should show. Of course, much depends on the specific type of plant, but still there are general rules which work great for everyone.

The main rule is the timely removal of wilted buds. Even if only one wilted inflorescence appeared, then it must be eliminated, otherwise the entire flower garden will be subject to this process very soon.

If the plant produces seeds, then it is considered that its flowering period will be extremely short. In this case, it is necessary to prevent the fertilization of the flower, for which you can use all possible methods. For example, in lilies, as soon as the buds begin to bloom, you can cut off the top of the pestle. This will prevent pollination and fertilization, and consequently, the buds in flowering form will last much longer. It is worth noting that it is necessary to do this with all neighboring plants, otherwise the bees will have much more chances to fertilize plants.

Immediately after the plant has buds, it is necessary to fertilize the root part of the stem. The plant becomes more powerful, it has forces that it will direct to the process of budding and strengthening its inflorescences.

There is another trick that some people may find a bit cruel. It combines the possibilities of both re-blooming and increasing the duration of an existing one. For example, when the beginnings of buds appear on phloxes, it is necessary to ruthlessly remove a third of the stems with pruners. Cut stems form new buds in a few weeks, when all the rest are ready to fade. Visually, it will seem that the bush really blooms longer than usual.

Finally, you can always plant plants in the same flower garden that have different flowering periods, and then it will have bright colorful flowers at any time.

Third time this season.

From Tom's regular letters to the President of the Russian Federation, we know how football is loved in the city and the region. How important it is not to let the original team die. Only statistics for some reason conflict with these theses: in terms of attendance (4971 people on average per match), the long-suffering Trud occupies last place among 18 - taking into account reserve - RFPL arenas. And the point here, probably, is not in the deplorable standings of the team (since the Tomsk team fell to the bottom of the table, they have not yet been seen in the city), but in something else. As an option - in the level of comfort at an antediluvian sports facility. Or as a job with a fan.

last time guys Valeria Petrakova appeared before the native public on November 5th. After a minimal defeat from Spartak, they began an endless tour, which continues to this day. Tom completed the first part of the season with a forced march along the route

Grozny - Samara - Moscow, spent the winter in Turkey, and opened the new competitive year in Rostov. Next in line is another voyage to the capital, presumably to Perm and definitely to Tula. The next meeting with his viewer is scheduled for April 8 - unless, of course, some kind of opportunity does not happen again with a difficult lawn.

God be with her, with the miserable "Tomya". It is unlikely that something will help her this season. He hobbles somehow to the finish line, does not withdraw from the run - and thanks for that. But more prosperous and pretentious teams have the right to be indignant: what about the sports principle and equality of participants? Both are naturally violated.

When a direct competitor, instead of the prescribed 15 matches, plays 16 at home and at the same time gets rid of two a priori tiring flights, it is time to state a selective approach to the tournament participants. "Rostov" shipped nine balls to "Tom" at home in two runs. Lokomotiv did not cope with the outsider on the first attempt, but on the second attempt they amused their fan with a major victory. Now Amkar has an additional match on its territory on the horizon. Is it sudden?

You can, of course, blame everything on the Tomsk agronomists, who did not properly prepare the field for the end of the first stage of the season and the start of the second. Solder a strict reprimand with entry in a personal file, so that in the future they would monitor the entrusted economy more vigilantly. Something, but we have a wonderful ability to find switchmen, and not only in football.

I have, if you will, a question for the agronomist's superiors: did you, gentlemen, know that it is frosty in your area in December and March? Did you know? And if so, why were they modestly silent when they received the draft calendar in early July? Why didn't they insist on moving these games to the south, and approved everything as it is?

If it was a hope for a chance (what if mother nature takes mercy and sends an early spring to Siberia?), then she is very narrow-minded and naive. I was not too lazy to look up the archives: a year ago in Tomsk the air temperature was plus or minus the same. Only by the end of March did the thermometer overcome the zero mark and slowly crawled up.

Why, then, there were no emergency transfers? And everything is simple: FNL took into account the climatic conditions of Siberia at the stage of preparing the schedule. As a result, "Tom" had to go through a grueling away lane (four matches in the fall + two in the spring) - but the sporting principle was fully respected, both in relation to the Siberians themselves and to competitors. The balance "home - away" is not broken.

What prevented RFPL officials from using the experience of colleagues from the FNL is a rhetorical question. “The Russian government must keep its people in a state of constant amazement,” Saltykov-Shchedrin once wrote. Our football authorities are doing great.

P.S. Tommy CEO Ruslan Kiselyov expressed the hope that the RFPL commission would nevertheless go towards the club and.

Last year, quite unexpectedly for myself, I became the winner of the Summer Season competition and received a greenhouse from the Life at the Dacha company. We must pay tribute to the organizers of the competition - they kept the intrigue until the last moment, and therefore, when almost all the participants were awarded, and they were very experienced and respectable gardeners, and only the main prize remained, I decided that they simply forgot about me - I didn’t even dream that I will become its owner.

To be honest, when deciding to participate in the competition, I didn’t think about the main prize at all - if only because we already had two greenhouses on the site, and, it seems, the third one was useless. But, answering questions and preparing for the new season, I realized what I lack for happiness in the garden life - hotbed!

The fact is that I prepare seedlings of vegetable and flower crops myself, and if there is a vegetable conveyor that we arrange in our beds, it is required until the end of July. In addition, I grow many flowers, including perennials, which can be planted in open ground often only in autumn, but where to keep them until then? I am already silent about various cuttings, delenki, processes that appear on the farm throughout the summer and also require space for growing.

When I went to classes in the Botanical Garden, our wonderful lecturer Yuri Borisovich Markovsky, speaking about the rooting of some plants, often suggested: "Yes, stick them in a cucumber greenhouse - they will take root there wonderfully," but by the end of the lecture series he remarked: "However, if If you plant all this there, then where will you grow cucumbers?" So - the only way to save cucumber and other greenhouse plantings from the abundance of lodgers is.

Of course, many will consider the creation of such a structure to be pampering - not everyone will be as lucky as I am, which means that I need to make a frame, and I need to buy a film, in short, is the game worth the candle? What can be the answer to such a question? Naturally, if a gardener is only engaged in growing vegetables that are planted in spring or early summer and sit on the beds until the end of the season, and from flower crops he prefers annuals, then a nursery is not so necessary for him, but for everyone else?

First of all, the nursery is very convenient for everyone who is fond of seed propagation of perennials. It's no secret that planting material is quite expensive, and if you suddenly want to make a border along the geyhera path or you need a wall of delphiniums along the fence, can you imagine how many plants you will have to buy and how much to spend? Of course, only growing from seeds can help in this case. In addition, it is much easier to get the seeds of many plants than delenki, and their shipment is cheaper. Unfortunately, many perennials develop quite slowly, the seedlings of some species are very small, and, of course, plant them immediately on permanent place fail - first you need to let them grow up. Even a seed bed will not help here - it is good for growing rooted cuttings or for fast-growing plants with large seedlings.

Now about the benefits of a seedling greenhouse for vegetable growers. Our plots are small, and many people cannot adequately process large gardens, so it turns out that it is more convenient to take several crops from a small area. But the summer in our region is short, and in order for the plants to please us with products several times a season, we have to grow seedlings, reducing the time the crop stays in the garden as much as possible. After all, the area necessary for the development of seedlings is small, it has enough space in a box or other container, and already grown plants will be planted in the garden, which will give the harvest in the shortest possible time.

Thus, even we you can get up to three crops from one area. But in order for such a conveyor to work properly, it is necessary to have already grown seedlings of another by the time one crop is harvested. Of course, vegetables such as root celery, peppers, tomatoes, early cabbages, leeks and onion you have to start growing from chernushka in an apartment, but then, as soon as the weather allows, they all move to a nursery. Last year, cold-resistant onions, cabbages, lettuces settled in the nursery in the last days of March, however, we have means of heating in case of frost. And the last seedlings of daikon, Chinese and Beijing cabbage went to the beds in the second half of July.

With such crop rotation compaction we get such sequences of vegetables. For example, as soon as the soil ripens, we plant spinach, followed by seedlings of ground standard tomatoes, after which radishes will still have time to grow at the end of summer. Or first we sow early carrots for summer use, and after it, in the second half of June, we plant beet seedlings for winter storage. Or - radish, followed by seedlings of early potatoes, after harvesting which we plant seedlings of daikon or Asian (Beijing, Chinese) cabbage. In general, if you think and experiment, you can find many options. Here everything becomes fundamental - the soil conditions of the site, and the specific tastes of family members, and the possibility of caring for plants, and the availability of conditions for storing the resulting vegetables.

First of all, we streamlined the territory of our garden - we broke the beds and outlined them with a croaker. The soils on our site are clayey, a spruce forest used to grow here, the fertile layer is small, with any digging, poisonous podzol turns out, so the beds had to be raised, or rather, created from compost, grass, manure and from any organic matter that could be found. A separate plot was prepared for potatoes (about 0.25 acres), in addition, the garden includes two greenhouses 6 meters long, each with two beds. After we decided on the size of the garden, the question arose of what to plant on it. Of course, each owner has his own preferences, but I want to talk about our considerations in this regard.

First of all, we refused to grow cabbage for pickling, because our agricultural enterprises now grow it perfectly, it is very cheap in season, and we stopped taking up space for it in the garden. But with the early one, which we collect in June, we are busy, despite the difficulties with growing seedlings, because in the summer the whole family lives in the country, and early vegetables more than relevant to us. The same with potatoes - we grow very early (which we dig already in June) seedlings, in addition, we plant a few early varieties, but in the usual way, we buy the rest in the fall, when potatoes are cheap. From other crops, we first of all plant everything that gives early production - radishes, spinach, watercress, perennial bows, leaf lettuce, kohlrabi, early ripening varieties of turnips, we sow early carrots in the greenhouse "under the side" to the tomatoes.

Like any gardener, I have my favorites - these are Bell pepper, carrots and pumpkins - I always grow them, even if it’s not profitable, simply because I like these plants, however, it’s usually their harvest that I don’t have to complain about.

In addition to the listed vegetables, parsley, celery, peas, dill (in company with cucumbers), beets (regular and chard), parsnips, sweet corn (a favorite children's treat), onions, swede, beans, Chinese, Japanese and chinese cabbage, spicy herbs (cilantro, catnip, hyssop, cumin, etc.). We plant a little zucchini - they quickly become boring, and when stored, pumpkins are much tastier. We plant quite a lot of radishes, turnips and daikon - they do not leave our table almost all year round. Well, in greenhouses, in addition to the already named peppers, tomatoes of various colors and sizes and cucumbers reign, to which more exotic neighbors - eggplants, melons and others often settle. As I already mentioned, we are always trying to grow something early, so we plant some of the cucumbers with seedlings, and some with seeds (their fruits will be pickled), in addition, we grow several bushes of overgrown (10-12-week-old) tomato seedlings - with them red fruits can be obtained in June.

And finally, a few more words about the nursery, which has now firmly taken its place in the garden. In our small greenhouse, we have installed slatted tables on which there are boxes and other containers with seedlings and crops. Moreover, on the one hand, the tables are stationary, and on the other hand, they are removed at the beginning of June, because at this time most of the seedlings go to a permanent place and space is freed up for another bed under the roof. In early spring, the ends of the nursery were covered with two layers - a non-woven covering material and a regular film. After the threat of frost had passed, we removed the film, which significantly improved the thermal regime of the greenhouse.

And in conclusion, I want to once again thank all the companies that provided prizes for the participants of the Summer Season contest, since all their gifts worked great on our sites last season, and I hope they will work again.

N. Aleksandrova, gardener, winner of the Summer Season contest, 2003

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