The cheapest heater for the garage. Warming the walls of the garage from the inside

Even 10-15 years ago, garages were built without insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. Therefore, in the cold season, it was impossible to use the room in full. With the advent of modern and inexpensive heaters, garage construction and finishing technologies have reached a new qualitative level. It became possible to insulate the garage with your own hands.

There are two ways:

• Garage insulation from the outside. This is not always possible in garages, where the outer wall of the insulated garage is the inner wall of the neighboring building.
• Warming the walls of the garage from the inside. Can be performed at any location of the building.

Garages are often insulated from the inside. Before you start work, you need to calculate the dew point. If this parameter is not taken into account, then the walls will get wet, a fungus will appear.

Before you insulate the garage from the inside, you need to figure out what materials are used. Find out their positive and negative properties.

The interior space of the garage consists of the floor, walls, ceiling and gate. Each is insulated separately:

• we insulate the walls with foam, mineral wool, plaster, penoizol (liquid foam), polyurethane foam;
• expanded clay is used for the floor, less often polystyrene;
• foam, penoizol or mineral wool is used for the ceiling;
• gates are sheathed with foam.

An important indicator for all materials of this group is thermal conductivity. Below is a summary table of averages:

Insulation of the garage from the inside is not made of blocks. New boxes for cars are being built from them.

Lightweight porous insulation for the floor or foundation of the garage, refers to cheap materials. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is about 1.5 times higher than that of polystyrene, but 10 times lower than that of brickwork. This puts it in the middle positions in terms of thermal protection. Not used in garage wall insulation.

Burnt expanded clay has a water absorption coefficient of not more than 20%, It is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, does not burn. Expanded clay is harmless to the body, as it does not emit harmful fumes.

Mineral wool

This is a class of artificial insulation with a fibrous structure. It consists of rocks, glass and slag. Insulation of garage walls from the inside with mineral wool is very common due to its high thermal insulation characteristics. According to this indicator, mineral wool is on par with polystyrene foam. It absorbs sound waves well, practically does not burn. At the basalt mineral wool high compressive strength.

The only negative is the high coefficient of water absorption. It is possible to insulate walls with its help only with the condition of subsequent plastering or other hermetic sealing of the surface.

Styrofoam

The most effective, cheapest and most popular garage insulation. It consists of small granules, reliably and hermetically soldered together. Do-it-yourself garage foam insulation from the inside is the most energy-efficient method.

Styrofoam has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. It does not absorb water and does not pass steam. It is a lightweight material that does not weaken the load-bearing capacity of a wall, ceiling or gate.

Styrofoam enters into a chemical reaction with many chemicals. It cannot be used in aggressive environments. Styrofoam releases hazardous phenolic compounds during combustion.

Styrofoam

According to the installation method, it practically does not differ from polystyrene foam. It has a lower water absorption coefficient, higher density. Insulating a garage from the inside with polystyrene foam is more expensive than a similar operation from polystyrene foam.

Penoizol

This is an analogue of foam for walls, which is applied in liquid form. Penoizol does not differ from polystyrene in heat-conducting characteristics. He has a burning class G-1. It absorbs water well, but does not accumulate in itself, but evaporates into the atmosphere. Penoizol is a hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation.

Do-it-yourself garage insulation

Most of the garages are built of brick or foam block. Therefore, the question often arises of how to insulate a brick garage, and not a metal one.

The work is divided into several stages:

• walls;
• gates;
• ceiling.

Walls

Do-it-yourself garage insulation is primarily wall cladding. Most of the heat is lost through them. So how to insulate the walls in a brick garage?

Wall cladding with styrofoam sheets

This is the answer to the question of how to insulate a garage cheaply.

• The walls are stripped of old plaster and paint. All irregularities are covered with cement-sand mortar.
• After drying, the walls are impregnated with soil or an antiseptic to kill mold and mildew.
• Then sheets of foam plastic 100 mm thick are glued. To do this, use a notched trowel and special glue.
• After 24 hours, a plaster mesh is attached to the foam. To do this, throw a little solution and press the stack into it.
• Then the surface is plastered and puttied. You can use both ready-made facade plaster in bags, and cement-sand mortar M150. It is better not to waste energy on independent mixing of the solution, but to buy ready-made dry mixes.

Installation of insulation on the frame

More expensive but effective and reliable way insulate garage walls

• The surface of the walls is cleaned, all bulges are removed. Potholes and cracks are expanded and sealed with a cement-sand mortar.
• An antiseptic or deep penetration primer is applied to the walls with a roller. Thus, mold and fungus are destroyed.
• After drying, the walls are sheathed with a polyethylene film or membrane vapor barrier.
• With help laser level two horizontal guides are installed. One goes along the floor, the other under the ceiling. For this, a wooden beam 100 × 50 mm or a metal profile is used. They are attached to the wall with anchors or self-tapping dowels.
• Vertical guides are installed in increments of 600-800 mm. Absolute precision is not needed here. Therefore, for installation, you can use the usual level or plumb line. Vertical guides are made of timber 100×50 mm or metal profile. They are attached to the wall in the same way as the horizontal rails.
• Insulation sheets are inserted between the bars. If foam is used, then it is attached to the glue. Then additional fixing of the sheets is provided with the help of plastic dowels in the form of a mushroom. The consumption rate per sheet is 5-6 pieces. The seams are closed mounting foam.

If dense basalt mineral wool is used, then glue is not required. It is enough to fix with plastic dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed with pieces of mineral wool.

For walls sheathed with mineral wool, a second layer of waterproofing is required on the interior side. Styrofoam does not need additional protection against moisture.

• For sheathing, lining or profiled sheet is used. Which material to choose, a matter of taste of each person.

More labor and material costs will be required for wall cladding with sheets of drywall or cement-bonded particle board. They are attached to the frame using wood or metal screws 30-40 mm. Then the joints between the sheets are glued with a mesh and puttied. At the final stage, the walls are puttied and painted.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam requires the involvement of third-party hired construction organizations. It is impossible to do the work with your own hands.

Floor

Basically, the thermal insulation of the garage floor is carried out by two materials: expanded clay or foam. Used as a cover cement-sand screed.

Thermal insulation of the floor with expanded clay

• A hole 250-300 mm deep is dug around the perimeter of the garage. The bottom is leveled and beacons are installed in several places. To obtain the mounting horizon, a laser or water level is used.
• The bottom of the pit is covered with roofing material or plastic wrap. A 300 mm bend is made on all sides.
• Expanded clay falls asleep. The thickness of the layer is equal to the depth of the pit. After backfilling, the surface is leveled according to the beacons using the rule. The beacons are then removed.
• A frame made of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is laid on top of the expanded clay. It can be bought or assembled directly at the construction site. To do this, the reinforcing bars are cut to size and laid out crosswise. Cell size 100-150 mm. The rods are connected to each other with a knitting wire.
• A beacon profile is laid on the grid with a step of 600 mm.
• A cement-sand screed is poured. The solution can be ordered or kneaded on site. The fill starts from the far corner. Layer thickness 100-120 mm. After pouring, the floor surface is equal to the rule. After 48 hours, the screed can be wiped off. For this, a trowel and a small amount of solution are used.

The period of complete drying of the screed is 28 days. Work on further insulation can be started 7 days after pouring. To avoid the appearance of cracks, the screed is shed with water every 12 hours for 3 days.

Styrofoam floor insulation

An option when you do not need to dig a pit. Insulation can be laid on the old coating:

• The old coating is cleaned of dirt. If there are large potholes, they are sealed.
• A plastic film or roofing material is laid on the floor. This is a layer of waterproofing.
• Sheets of extruded foam with a density of at least C-25 are laid on the finished base. The thickness of the insulation layer should be 100 mm. It is possible to lay casts in one layer with a thickness of 100 mm. It is much more reliable to use 50 mm foam, laying the sheets in two layers.

All joints are sealed with mounting foam.

• From above, the foam is covered with a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing material. On each side there is an overlap on the wall of 100 mm.
• A reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 100-120 mm is laid on the waterproofing. The mesh is laid on small veins, so the solution can flow under it.
• A screed is poured over the grid. The technology of the device of the supporting base is no different.

Gates

Metal garage doors are the main source of heat loss. If you completely insulate the perimeter, but do not touch the gate, then the work will be done in vain. Before starting the insulation, you can build an additional curtain. To do this, you need two wooden slats and dense reinforced polyethylene.

The first rail is attached above the gate. The film is cut into strips 200-300 mm wide and 20 mm long less than the distance from the rail to the floor. Then the strips are nailed overlapping each other. The second rail is stuffed on the first. It turns out a reliable fastening.

The curtain is ready, you can proceed directly to the insulation of the gates:

• The inside of the garage door is covered with plastic wrap.
• From wooden beam 50 × 50 mm frame is assembled. It is screwed to the gate leaf with metal screws. Previously, wooden bars are treated with an antiseptic.

The thickness of the beam for the frame should always correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

• Styrofoam sheets are inserted into the resulting frame. They are glued to the inner surface of the gate with glue. It must be chosen carefully, since the foam can enter into a chemical reaction with the glue and collapse. Sheets are pressed as tightly as possible to the surface of the gate.
• Butt joints are sealed with mounting foam.
• From above, the foam is sewn up with a clapboard or profiled sheet using self-tapping screws with a drill.

Ceiling

According to the production technology, the insulation of the ceiling does not differ from the insulation of the walls. Insulation sheets are attached to the cells of the frame made of wood or metal and sewn up with clapboard, drywall or any other finishing material.

Video: garage insulation

In this article, detailed instructions on how to properly insulate your garage. How to get the job done cheaply the best materials. The main thing is to follow the advice, take your time and thoughtfully approach each stage of finishing. Then the result will not keep you waiting.

You snap the lock on the gate, heading contentedly home through the snow crisp in the cold.

Meanwhile, you have just personally created all the conditions for the favorable development of corrosion on the body of the machine.

The hot metal of the engine and the hot exhaust pipe will heat the icy air in the garage. But the confrontation between heat and cold will be unequal. The engine will cool down quickly.

According to the inexorable laws of nature, drops of condensate will appear on the cooled surface. Corrosion is taken into account.

If the garage metal, he is doomed to rust along with the car.

On the brick walls ah dampness will cause destructive mold over time, and on wooden shelves tool rack will appear fungus.

Oddly enough, cars left in open parking lots in winter are not subject to external condensate. But the condensation process takes place in a closed cabin, these cars rust from within. That is why it is recommended to close the windows loosely, leaving slots for ventilation.

It's not safe outside, but garage always do it this way.

Rescue ventilation

The first step to defeating condensation and corrosion is a device in the garage. In opposite corners of the garage, two pipes must be brought out.

The lower edge of one of them will be placed closer to the floor. Through this pipe, cold air . A short pipe near the ceiling in the other corner will serve as a hood.

This simple but reliable device will work flawlessly automatically, without fashionable fans creating a natural movement (convection) of air in the volume of the garage.

Convection prevent condensation from forming. Wet fumes will simply fly out into the pipe. Exhaust fumes hazardous to health, fuel fumes, and other chemicals stored in the garage will also go there.

Now let's move on to the most important - we warm DIY garage. Here the situation is more complicated, but the task is quite accessible for an independent solution.

How to insulate a garage cheaply from the inside?

Warming do-it-yourself garage from the inside is a complex and comprehensive enterprise. This is one of those jobs that you must definitely bring to the end, otherwise your work and money spent on materials will be thrown to the wind in the literal sense of the word.

In the struggle for a comfortable living environment for a car, it is absolutely pointless to insulate only gates or walls garage. The insidious cold will penetrate through any surface unprotected by insulation.

After all, you can not block the river, filling only part of the dam.

Do-it-yourself garage insulation - photo:

Types of materials

How to insulate a garage from the inside inexpensively?

If you have thought insulate garage walls, you should first familiarize yourself with some types of insulation materials. They are very diverse in properties.

Almost all heaters are made from waste from the production of metal, glass, paper, chemical industry. Some of them are unsafe under certain conditions.

Reference: Sellers do not like to talk about it, but the safety factor is eloquently indicated price. The more hidden tricks in the insulation, the more cheaper.

1. glass wool

Elastic, heat-resistant, resistant to aggressive chemicals material. It is produced in the form of plates and rolls. This fiberglass insulation is effective, but potentially harmful for good health.

With any manipulations, microscopic, invisible to the eye glass fibers rise above the glass wool. specks of dust, broken off from fragile fiberglass.

These dangerous sharp dust particles irritate the skin and can seriously damage the eyes and lungs. Work with glass wool with a respirator, gloves, goggles.

Glass wool is indispensable in places requiring thermal insulation from high temperatures. If installed in the garage bake, glass wool will reliably protect the walls from overheating and fire.

2. Mineral wool

Made from melt natural stone, from slag waste of metallurgy. The properties are close to glass wool, but the heat resistance mineral wool significantly higher. On sale are offered in the form of mats and plates.

When heated to high temperatures (more than 300 ° C), it emits dangerous toxic substances.

In many countries, certain types of mineral wool are banned as a health hazard. But these prohibitions do not go beyond borders: in neighboring countries, such wadding is produced and used.

how insulation mineral wool for a garage is effective and safe.

3. Cellulose insulation

Eco-friendly, with good thermal insulation properties. Disadvantages: flammable, water permeable, mould-prone.

4. Styrofoam

Suitable for insulation garage walls from the inside with your own hands. Resistant to water and mildew. Not compatible with chemicals, high temperatures. Fire hazardous. Some types of this insulation, treated with flame retardants, do not burn, but melt.

Manufacturers claim that in terms of thermal insulation 10 cm layer polystyrene foam is equal to the thermal protection of a two-meter brick wall.

Exterior walls

How to insulate a garage cheaply? If the garage is too narrow, we will not take away the already meager internal space to the crate, but we will transfer the structure to the outside.

In principle, the technology of work from this will not change in any way.

Only materials of insulation and siding need to be selected waterproof.

Mineral wool, with all its advantages, in this case will not suit us - it absorbs(accumulates) moisture.

In all respects, foamed plastic heaters: polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, foam plastic.

For siding, we choose panels made of warm cellular vinyl or metal (aluminum, steel).

Comparing prices, calculating the available budget, we will focus on polystyrene and profiled metal. Indeed, with one sheet of corrugated board, you can close almost the entire wall of the garage at once.

Styrofoam insulation for the garage

foam boards- one of the cheapest and most effective heaters. But in the construction of modern buildings it is practically not used.

The fact is that this material has a large flaw- it is highly flammable. Burns like napalm. Do not extinguish with water. In addition, some types of foam break down into small granules over time.

However, the tempting low cost attracts many private developers for whom fire bans are not a decree. After all Styrofoam has undeniable merit.

It is light, waterproof, easy to cut and process, takes any shape. The positive qualities include bacteriological properties polystyrene. It is not subject to rotting, neither mold nor fungi will ever settle on the foam.

In a word, if you promise yourself to observe all conceivable fire regulations, feel free to go to the store for foam boards for budgetary insulation of car storage.

At the same time, buy a fire extinguisher with foam or carbon dioxide. God saves man, who save himself.

Garage thermos

How to insulate a garage with styrofoam?

With the help of cheap foam plastic (thickness - 5 cm), inexpensive sheets of colored corrugated board and wooden beams (50 x 50 mm), we turn a battered iron garage into an attractive warm candy house.

dense building

how insulate DIY garage? Often garages are installed close to each other. The side walls, it would seem, are not available for insulation. But there is a way out.

Offer neighbors on the right-left custom solution: limit the space between the walls and fill it up expanded clay all the way up to the roof. It is best to weld openings with steel sheets, a wooden shield is short-lived.

Expanded clay- excellent heater. It is not necessary to cover the backfill from rain and snow. Expanded clay "breathes", the moisture that has got into the backfill will quickly evaporate. You will have to insulate the back wall, gate and roof.

Finally:

Looking at what has been built with my own hands amazing, you won't believe your eyes. But there are a couple more bonuses.

Remember how many times you derusted and painted the exterior walls of your metal garage? How many times in a frozen garage did the battery run down, did the oil in the transmission freeze? Remembered? Now forget about it forever.

Insulating a garage is a difficult question, but it can be solved. The main task facing its owner is the safety of the car. To protect the car from corrosion and other adverse effects, it is important to create the right temperature and humidity conditions in the room. Is it possible to achieve on your own the desired result with the help of thermal insulation, we will consider in more detail.

The need to insulate an unheated garage

Some car owners believe that the garage serves only as a protection against precipitation, which causes rust and corrosion of the body. However, low temperatures and its sudden changes adversely affect the condition of the entire machine, including the engine. Experts say that the thermometer in the cold season should be kept at around 5-10 degrees. And here you can’t do without warming an unheated garage. Measures to create the correct temperature and humidity regime will extend the life of the car, as well as provide favorable conditions for your stay in the room.

Good to know. Insulating the building envelope of a heated garage will help reduce heat loss and energy costs for space heating, which will significantly save your money.

Construction insulation options

The choice of material and method of garage insulation depends on the following factors: construct, size of the garage, material of enclosing structures. It is known that large heat losses of the room occur through the walls due to the larger area. Therefore, to save time and money, you can only insulate them, from the outside or from the inside.

General rules for walls

Warming from the inside is carried out in the following cases:

• in order to save on material;
• to preserve the finish of the facade of the garage;
• when insulating a metal garage;
• when insulating garage doors.

For the insulation of the walls of the garage suitable materials:

• Styrofoam. Lightweight, moisture-proof material, fastened without a frame, not susceptible to fungus, affordable. Of the minuses - the release of toxic substances during combustion and fragility;
• Expanded polystyrene extruded - a type of foam. It has greater rigidity and strength, but also greater thermal conductivity than ordinary foam. Does not pass moisture, does not rot. The disadvantage is combustibility and poor adhesion, which leads to the need to install the crate or notch the surface.
• Glass wool. The price is its main advantage, but in construction it is used only by professionals in large volumes, which is due to the inconvenience of installation.
• Mineral wool is a non-combustible material that allows not only air to pass through, but also moisture, and is the most environmentally friendly. For installation, the installation of a crate is often required.

The principle of external wall insulation is that plate insulation is mounted on the surface. If necessary, a windproof film is arranged. This is followed by finishing, for example: mesh plastering with further painting, drywall, PVC or lining, profiled sheets, siding, facing brick or stone.

Depending on the characteristics of the material and the base, the thermal insulation is attached in two ways:

The latter option is more reliable for the installation of non-rigid slabs and with heavy finishing: siding, several layers of plaster, including decorative, stone cladding, etc. It will also help hide serious drops and irregularities in the base.

Lathing is also necessary when insulating garage doors. This is due to their constant operation and finishing.

If you live in an area with cold winters and low temperatures, then in order to avoid freezing of structures and reduce heat loss, you should also think about insulating the floor and ceiling (roof).

General rules for the floor

Warming the floor is not a laborious process. It is possible to insulate both an existing floor and a base on the ground.

The following materials are used for floor insulation:

• Styrofoam - as a floor insulation is used more often in apartments, it can be damaged under heavy loads, it is unstable to rodents;
• Expanded clay is the most affordable and economical material, durable, easy to install, lightweight, has good thermal conductivity, but absorbs moisture well, as a result of which it loses its thermal insulation properties;
• Construction slag - in many respects similar to expanded clay, good thermal conductivity, sound insulation, does not rot, is not afraid of rodents, but is subject to moisture. May possess large quantity small particles, which reduces its heat-conducting qualities, it is more difficult to ram;
• Construction sawdust is a clean ecological material, but a number of disadvantages are associated with its rapid dampening under the influence of moisture, as well as combustibility;
• Rigid mineral wool boards - a good option, as a floor insulation, but more expensive.

When there is already a concrete slab in the garage, a heater is laid on it, and a reinforced screed is placed on top. In this case, the most correct solution is to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. It should be taken into account the vapor barrier layer of the film laid on top of the insulation with an institution on the walls.

When constructing a base from scratch, the subsequent floor covering plays an important role in the choice of insulation.

When installing a wooden floor, the insulation is laid between the logs, which are covered with boards from above. In this case, the heat-insulating material can be any.

Important! Between the insulation and the coating, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap of at least 5 cm.

Also consider the flammability of the material. Accordingly, the tree must be treated with an antiseptic solution. Insulation vapor barrier is a must.

When constructing concrete floors on the ground, the insulation is laid on a sand-gravel compacted preparation, and a reinforced concrete screed is poured on top. A film is placed under the insulation and on top of it, which serves as a waterproofing and vapor barrier. As a heater, you can lay foam or polystyrene, mineral wool boards or a layer of expanded clay.

General rules for the ceiling (roof)

Roof insulation can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Outside, it is advisable to carry out work if there is no roofing. A heater is laid on a concrete slab, a vapor barrier layer and a screed is poured. From above it is covered with a bituminous composition or welded roofing material.

The technology of internal roof insulation is in most cases similar to wall insulation. The plates are fastened with glue and dowels or crates. An exception is a garage with an attic, which significantly reduces heat loss. In this case, you can do without insulation. Another option is to lay thermal insulation in the attic floor.

If the garage roof is pitched, the insulation is inserted into the crate mounted to the rafter system.

Then the ceiling is plastered over the grid, or covered with plywood, clapboard, plasterboard and other materials.

With a cellar

The cellar in the garage must also be insulated to prevent heat loss and dampness. Insulation of the floor and walls is carried out from the inside in the same way as the main garage room.
With a small cellar, it is more expedient to stick the insulation on the walls without mounting the crate. With this method, heat-insulating materials such as polystyrene or polystyrene are suitable.

An important point in the insulation of the cellar is its protection from moisture and leakage, which is due to its close location to groundwater. Therefore, before installing the heat-insulating layer of the floor, it is necessary to install a waterproofing device that is placed on the walls by 10–15 cm. Most often, roofing material or surface coating with hot bitumen is used.

Important! Whichever of the insulation options you choose, you should remember that ventilation holes must be left in the structures.

What to insulate? Material selection and preparation for work

How to decide on the choice of material and its thickness, what you need to pay attention to, we will consider further.

If you have the most common type of garage built from brick, aerated concrete, FBS blocks or concrete, we choose a heater for the outer skin.

The simplest and most economical option is expanded polystyrene foam, i.e. polystyrene. Although its strength characteristics are lower than extruded polystyrene foam, it has proven to be excellent for finishing plaster with coloring. And the ease of installation, the values ​​​​of thermal conductivity and, of course, the price make it the most popular among private builders.

• thermal conductivity - 0.038–0.043 (W / m * K);
• vapor permeability - 0.05 Mg / (m * h * Pa).

It makes sense to insulate a wooden garage only with breathable insulation, mineral wool or glass wool.

Finished insulation flat roof or ceiling is made from the inside with foam on glue. Since the ceiling is not subject to any mechanical stress, expanded polystyrene can be accepted as grade PSB-15 and with a minimum thickness of 50 mm.

To warm the floor on the ground, you can use any convenient option. We propose to insulate it with expanded clay, which is widely used when pouring floors, which is laid with a layer thickness of 10–15 cm.

Calculation

Let's give an example of calculating the material for brick garage. On the plan, it is presented as a separate rectangular building, without windows, with gates 2.7x3 m and a flat roof.

We calculate the outer perimeter P along the walls with sides of 4 m and 6 m. P ​​\u003d (4 + 6) x2 \u003d 20 m.

The area of ​​the garage is calculated as: S=PxH, where H is the height of the walls outside. We will conditionally take this value as 3 m.
S=20×3.0=60 m2.

Subtract from the area of ​​the walls the area of ​​all openings, except for the gate.

Insulation area, including on the gate: S ut \u003d 60–0 \u003d 60 m 2;

The area of ​​​​insulation without a gate: S ut ' \u003d 60–2.7x3 \u003d 51.9 m 2.

The volume of foam for walls and gates: V ut \u003d 60x0.05 + 15% \u003d 2.595x1.1 \u003d 3.45 m 3, where 15% is the stock of material.

We calculate the amount of glue for fastening based on a consumption of 10 kg per 1 m 2: W cl \u003d 10x60 + 15% \u003d 690 kg.

Dowels at the rate of 10 pcs. per 1 m 2: N dub \u003d 10x60 + 15% \u003d 690 pcs.

The leveling solution is calculated from a consumption of 6–10 kg per 1 m 2: W vyr \u003d 51.9x8 + 10% \u003d 415.2x1.1 \u003d 457 kg.

Quantity plaster mixture take from the consumption of 17 kg per 1 m 2 with a layer thickness of 2 cm: W pieces \u003d 51.9x17 + 10% \u003d 882.3 * 1.1 \u003d 971 kg.

Styrofoam is sold both in individual sheets and in packages.

Calculation of insulation on the ceiling is calculated according to the same principle.

The area of ​​​​insulation in our case: S ut \u003d 4x6 \u003d 24 m 2.

Insulation volume: V ut \u003d 24x0.05 + 10% \u003d 1.2x1.1 \u003d 1.32 m 3.

The amount of glue W cl \u003d 10x24 + 15% \u003d 276 kg.

Dowels: N dowel \u003d 10x24 + 15% \u003d 276 pcs.

Leveling solution: W vyr \u003d 24x8 + 10% \u003d 192x1.1 \u003d 211 kg.

We take the amount of plaster mixture from a consumption of 17 kg per 1 m 2 with a layer thickness of 2 cm: W pieces \u003d 24x17 + 10% \u003d 408 * 1.1 \u003d 449 kg.

Fiberglass mesh for floors and walls is calculated from a consumption of 1.1 m 2 per 1 m 2: S set \u003d 1.1x (51.9 + 24) + 10% \u003d 83.5x1.1 \u003d 92 m 2.

The volume of expanded clay for the floor: Vker \u003d 24x0.1 + 5% \u003d 2.4x1.05 \u003d 2.52 m 3.

For a screed 5 cm thick, we need the volume of the solution: V st \u003d 0.05x24 + 10% \u003d 1.2 * 1.1 \u003d 1.3 m 3, of which 4/5 is fine sand and 1/5 is M400 cement .

For 1 m 3 of the solution, the consumption of cement is 400 kg: W cement \u003d 1.3x400 \u003d 520 kg.

For 1 m 3 of the solution, the consumption of sand is 1000 kg: W pes \u003d 1.3x1000 \u003d 1300 kg.

Required Tools

Prepare the necessary tools in advance.

For the installation of polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, you will need:

• start panel and corner, not less than a heater thick;
• a hammer;
• cutting knife;
• spatulas;
• dowels - fungi 6x4 mm;
• primer;
• mounting foam;
• glue for foam plastic and sickle.

For flooring you will need:

• shovel;
• a hammer;
• nails;
• wood saw;
• polyethylene film for vapor barrier;
• material for waterproofing;
• rule;
• level;
• trowel;
• steel brush;
• vibrating plate for concrete;
• bars-stands, lighthouses.

Step-by-step instructions for self-insulating the floor on the ground with your own hands

1. The device of crushed-stone-sand pillow. Gravel or crushed stone is poured to a height of 100 mm. A layer of sand 50–100 mm thick is laid. Spilled with water and rammed with a vibrating plate.
2. Waterproofing device (in the cellar). Polyethylene or roofing material is rolled out and laid on the base. Do not forget to bring the edges of the roll to the walls, 100-150 mm.
3. Expanded clay 100 mm thick is poured in, compacted.
4. It would be useful to lay a layer of polyethylene vapor barrier overlap.
5. Screed reinforcement. A metal mesh Ø4–8 mm with mesh sizes of 100x100 mm is placed on wooden or brick stands at a height of 2–3 cm from the base.
6. Lighthouse device. Metal or wooden guides are fixed on pillows from a pre-prepared cement-sand mortar in increments of 0.5–1 m, checked by level.
7. Cement-sand mortar is mixed in a container of 4 parts of sand, 1 part of cement and water. The solution is laid with shovels in parts, processed with a vibrating plate, leveled with a rule and a spatula along the beacons.

The screed gains its final strength after 28 days. Before that, it is desirable to cover it with a film to retain moisture in the concrete.

Good to know. Thanks to the insulation in the garage, you can make the floor slope for water to drain.

We insulate the walls

1. Surface preparation. The walls are cleaned of dust and the ledges are dismantled. Depressions and cracks are smeared with mortar using a trowel or spatula. The wall is primed with a roller for better adhesion to the adhesive, left to dry.
2. Mounting on the plinth of the base plate using self-tapping screws. launch pad mounted around the entire perimeter of the garage at the start of insulation. Self-tapping screws are screwed in every 0.5 m. Level check.
3. The first row of foam plates is mounted with support on the starting corner. Pre-mixed adhesive is applied to the cleaned foam dotted and along the entire edge. The plate is firmly pressed against the wall. The distance between the plates is kept 2-3 mm. The entire row is leveled.
4. The next row is mounted "in the dressing" in the same way. That is, the vertical seams of each subsequent row should be approximately in the middle of the slabs of the bottom row. To give the masonry rigidity, the panels are joined at the corners with a serrated joint.
5. After the installation is completed, the facade must dry for three days.
6. Then each plate is fixed with several dowels, in the corners and in the middle. The seams between the plates and the caps are covered with a leveling mortar or mounting foam.
7. Under plastering, the next step is to apply a reinforcing fiberglass mesh to the insulation. It is attached with an adhesive leveling layer using a wide spatula. The mesh is partially stretched and held with one hand, the solution is thinly applied with the other. Special attention should be given to the corners of the building. They're still reinforcing corner profiles which are mounted vertically with mortar.
8. Puttying a pre-primed surface. The diluted dry mixture is applied with a spatula in a thin layer and pulled vertically. Leave to dry.
9. Plastering with subsequent painting of the facade. An alternative to conventional plaster can be decorative.

How to insulate the ceiling?

Work on the insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the same sequence as on the walls.

Garage insulation is a kind of guarantee of a long life of your car. Sudden temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensate, which violates the anti-corrosion protection of the metal and thus causes significant damage to the car. To achieve optimal performance, you just need to insulate the garage and worry about heating it. Today we will talk about the materials and options for insulating the garage and how to insulate the garage with your own hands.

The need to insulate the walls of the garage

The walls of the garage, as a rule, are made relatively thin: when using a cinder block - about 200 millimeters, for brick walls - 250 millimeters, and sometimes 120 millimeters. Of course, such a wall cannot become a serious protection against cold air. And heating a metal garage is generally meaningless. No matter how you drown, in severe frost, only condensation will appear on the wall, and then, when using a very powerful heater.

The question of the need to insulate the garage is not subject to discussion. However, one should not overdo it here. Many car owners believe that in winter, inside the shelter for the car, the temperature should be maintained at close to twenty degrees above zero, because these are the indicators that are usually observed in residential buildings. However, what is comfortable for the driver can be detrimental to the condition of the car.

Remember that high temperatures for iron aggregates are not at all useful! The car, getting from frost to warmth, quickly becomes covered with condensate, and such moisture will gradually lead to the destruction of the car body and the appearance of rust. Therefore, thoughtless insulation of the garage will not only not bring benefits to the car, but only great harm.

It is necessary to insulate the room so that the car is stored at positive temperatures, and at the same time the temperature difference in the garage and outside the windows is minimal. The optimal atmosphere for the safety of the car is considered to be plus five degrees. This temperature will be comfortable for the car. And if the driver is cold, then you can sometimes use the heater.

When planning the insulation of walls in the garage, motorists make another mistake. They close up all, without exception, holes through which cold air can seep. Often, within the framework of such insulation, ventilation holes are also clogged, which absolutely cannot be blocked.

The combustion products of engine fuel will constantly accumulate in the garage. Carbon monoxide is dangerous to humans. Therefore, it is important to provide ventilation or exhaust so that harmful compounds can leave the room. Without ventilation, you will also not be able to get rid of excess moisture. And in winter, a lot of ice and snow accumulate on the bottom and wheels of the car, which quickly melt.

Another important indicator is thermal inertia, which determines the rate at which the surface temperature of a structure changes over time. It is desirable to equip the garage insulation in such a way that the thermal inertia of the building envelope increases from the outside to the inside, and the thermal conductivity thermal insulation materials, which make up this structure, on the contrary, decreased. Insulation with such a scheme "will not let" cold air into the shelter in winter, and heat in summer.

When insulating the walls of the garage, the question arises - to insulate from the inside or outside. Many will initially answer you that you need to fix the heat-insulating material from the outside, since it takes up a certain space from the inside. However, the choice should not be limited to one space. There are several other arguments in favor of external insulation.

There are always risks of freezing walls in winter time with internal insulation. No matter how expensive the insulation you buy, it will still emit harmful fumes into the room. Therefore, it is better to fix the insulation from the outside. Well, if you decide to insulate the basement and garage from the inside, then do not buy cheap thermal insulation materials and be sure to provide good forced ventilation.

Garage wall insulation materials

There are many options on the market for thermal insulation materials that are suitable for garage insulation - from traditional and well-known to ultra-modern. Let's look at the main ones.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool helps to qualitatively insulate the walls of the garage, without disturbing the natural "breathing" inside the room. For external insulation with mineral wool, it is customary to use rigid mats that have a density of 200-240 kilograms per cubic meter, and for internal thermal insulation - soft and semi-rigid mats with a density of about 120-180 kilograms per cubic meter.

Basalt mineral wool is considered the best, which demonstrates record thermal conductivity and sound absorption. However, remember that for insulation with mineral wool from the inside, the heat-insulating material should be protected with a vapor barrier so that the insulation from the environment does not pick up moisture and subsequently lose its abilities.

glass wool

Glass wool is cheaper than mineral wool, by about 20-25%. However, it is necessary to work with it only in special gloves, because the fibers are very sharp and hard, and you can injure your hands and eyes. In addition, if water gets on the material during installation, then you can safely throw it away, since it will not work out to dry.

After wetting, the fibers become heavy and crumple, losing their heat-insulating qualities forever and constantly emitting bad smell. Therefore, the glass wool insulation cake will have to be completely insulated with foil or films.

Styrofoam

This polymer heat insulator is a favorite heat-insulating material that is used when insulating a garage with your own hands, as it is convenient and easy to install, has a low weight, can be processed with an ordinary hacksaw, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and is affordable. The most popular type of foam is polystyrene foam, because it is vapor and waterproof, and its useful life reaches 40 years.

However, foam plastic also has its drawbacks - it is not able to pass air and is considered a combustible material, therefore it is recommended to choose a self-extinguishing PSB-S, which goes out after neutralizing the fire source within 4 seconds. And, regardless of the fact that he is not afraid of either chemistry or water, he is still afraid of the sun - the foam turns yellow and crumbles under its influence.

Reflective thermal insulation

Reflective thermal insulation is the latest development in the energy saving environment. It is made in the form of a rolled material, which is covered on one side with a layer of foamed polyurethane foam, and on the other - with polished foil. This type of insulation is recognized best solution for carrying out internal insulation of the garage from the standpoint of saving usable space. The thickness of the insulation is minimal - 2-5 millimeters.

This also allows you to create a facing layer, in contrast to the use of traditional heat-insulating materials, the minimum thickness of which is 50 millimeters. With the addition of internal, facing and decorative layers, it runs to the total amount minus 10-15 centimeters. However, you will be disappointed that ultra-thin reflective thermal insulation acts as a “mirror” to reflect infrared heat radiation. It is ineffective with its convection and induction, which are the main culprits of the greatest heat loss.

"Warm" plaster

This is a plaster of an unusual composition, which contains special fillers, such as expanded vermiculite, sawdust and expanded polystyrene "balls", which give it thermal insulation properties. However, to get a really serious warm effect, you need to apply a very thick and heavy layer of plaster on the walls of the garage, so it should be combined with other types of insulation, as shown in the photo of the garage insulation.

Thermal insulation paint

Those car owners who value not only comfort, but also an attractive appearance, are suitable for liquid heat insulators made from acrylic polymers with the addition of synthetic rubber and organic pigments. In appearance, such a substance resembles ordinary paint, which has amazing thermal insulation properties: a layer of thermal insulation paint of 1 millimeter replaces 50 millimeters of mineral wool.

Thermal insulation paints show good adhesion to metal, plastic and wood. Therefore, warm colors are considered ideal solution for warming a garage from a bar, because the heat insulator is able to create a vapor-permeable coating and allows the wall to "breathe", eliminating waterlogging of the inside of the structure and protecting the garage from the damaging effects of moisture. The technology for applying such a heat insulator is simplified as much as possible.

Insulation of garage walls from the outside

Let's start the insulation of the garage from the walls. Styrofoam is excellent for insulating brick walls in terms of quality / price ratio. Only, in places where high temperatures are possible (equipment or heating stoves), mineral wool boards should be used instead of fusible plastic.

With external insulation of the walls of the garage with polystyrene foam, you can avoid the contact of the temperature difference in winter, which leads to the appearance of moisture at the junction of the insulation with the surface. Therefore, to eliminate this effect when the walls are insulated with foam, it is necessary to equip the room with forced ventilation, ensuring its continuous operation.

To begin with, it is worth preparing the surface for attaching the foam. The walls should be pre-cleaned of dirt, old plaster, oil stains and dust, and deep cracks and chips should be covered with plaster. So that the insulation of the garage does not bring any problems in the future, the base must be strong and clean. It is also desirable to prime the surface of the walls to increase adhesion with glue.

To insulate the shelter, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam, which has a 25th strength and a thickness of 5 centimeters. The solution can be applied to the sheet using the “blot” method, then pressed tightly against the wall. However, spot application from the worker requires some skill. Therefore, the "slab" method of applying glue should be used in order to exclude the occurrence of the smallest gaps between the surface and the slab. In this case, the solution is applied to the foam using a notched trowel.

When insulating a brick garage, foam sheets should be laid in a checkerboard pattern, pressing them well together. The wall is covered with foam sheets from the bottom up. It is necessary to lay the first row on the initial bar attached to the surface with dowels. After the glue dries, each element of the masonry is usually additionally fixed with three plastic dowels.

Styrofoam by its nature is characterized by low strength. And the structure of heaters that are made on the basis of different kind fibers, makes them also susceptible to saturation with water, which significantly reduces the heat-shielding properties of the heat-insulating material. All this requires the creation additional protection thermal "armor".

It is advisable to protect the insulation with a layer of plaster reinforced for strength with a fiberglass mesh. To install the mesh panel, the surface of the foam must be covered with glue of 3-5 millimeters. After that, the mesh is pressed in strips and overlapped into the adhesive and completely covered with adhesive. For the purpose of plastering, decorative facade plaster is used.

After that, the surface is primed to "preserve" the porous surface and covered in several layers with facade paint. Siding and other facing materials are also suitable for external protection - moisture-resistant DSP and GKL, gypsum-fiber sheets, various plastics. If you prefer sheet materials, then remember that they must be fastened using a frame.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside is rarely used, but if you have chosen this particular method of thermal insulation of the walls, then it should be carried out in that order. The first step is to prepare the surface by cleaning the wall. With the help of drywall, you need to make a false partition, and you will put a heat insulator into its frame.

To create such a frame, standard UD guides and wall CD profiles are used. UD racks are fastened with dowels to the ceiling and floor in increments of 25-30 centimeters. Then, CD profiles are installed every 60 centimeters with the help of special suspensions that are mounted in the wall with a step of 30 centimeters, to which drywall will need to be attached - the last facing layer.

You can also use not only drywall, but also asbestos fiber for sheathing the walls of the garage. The latter option is preferable, since such sheets have increased fire resistance compared to drywall. However, asbestos fiber is more fragile, so you need to take a step near the frame more often. Place the selected insulation between the wall and the sheathing.

Usually, cotton wool insulation is used for internal insulation of garage walls, since there will be more trouble with polystyrene. In the middle of the partitions, you need to insert mineral or glass wool, attaching it to the surface with special hooks. Then a vapor barrier must be laid over the profiles. To do this, it is better to take a membrane, which should be laid end-to-end with a cotton wool insulation.

From the outside, it is recommended to plaster the “box” of the garage with “warm” plaster or cover it with heat-insulating paint. So you can move the dew point to the outside of the walls, which will protect them from future moisture and freezing. It is also necessary to equip forced ventilation, designed for an intensive level of air exchange.

An effective method of insulating an iron garage from the inside is to apply liquid thermal insulation - foamed polyurethane or liquid paint-insulators. For example, you can buy isolate, thermos paint and others. liquid foam is a foamy mass, which is made directly at the construction site through the use of special equipment - foam generators. Such foam, when applied to the walls of the garage, turns into a hard crust, which has excellent adhesion.

The simplest and most inexpensive way to insulate the walls of an iron garage is to attach foam plates to glue. The main thing at the same time is to clean and degrease the metal surface well so that the sheets of heat-insulating material stick and hold securely. The gaps that remain between the sheets are carefully blown out with mounting foam. The surface of the insulation can then be painted. However, remember that these materials are highly flammable and, when ignited, release many toxic substances into the air.

Garage door insulation

When insulating the walls of the garage, pay attention to the gate, because they are large, and through them the shelter loses a lot of heat. If the gate is not insulated, it will be quite difficult to heat the garage. To begin with, it is worth making a small door in one leaf so as not to open a huge gate every time. Next to the gate, you can hang a curtain made of plastic or dense fabric, which is able to keep some of the heat in the room.

It is better to take transparent plastic for this, so that the driver can see where he is going when leaving the garage. It is recommended to use a thick (minimum 0.8 mm) polyethylene film. Cut the material into strips of such length that, when fastened over the doorway from the inside, they do not reach a centimeter to the floor. The width of the strips should be close to 20-30 centimeters.

Unnecessarily narrow stripes can cling to protruding parts of the car, for example, outside mirrors, wide ones will be uncomfortable. Attach the strips with a stapler on a wooden rail so that one strip overlaps another 1.5-2 centimeters, or a little more. The strips should hang evenly under their own weight, and when deflected, they should quickly return to their place.

Garage door panels are best insulated with foam. Warming, as already mentioned, is desirable to carry out from the outside, but for the gate it will be problematic to do so. On the inside, it is necessary to attach the crate, then fill with foam all the gaps in it. In order to prevent the entry of low-temperature air masses into the room through the gaps that are formed at the junction of the gate, it should be treated with adhesive tape.

To eliminate drafts, you can use rubber seals. Since the insulation from the inside of the garage door causes condensation to form at the points of contact between the metal and the insulation, the canvases must be covered with anti-corrosion protection. Having made the waterproofing of the gate, you need to attach a frame to them, which will act as the basis for the sheathing.

At the same time, prime the frame parts to protect them from warping and fungus, for which heated drying oil is suitable, and clean the foam layer, covering it with a durable material. Sheathing is recommended to be done with a thin board or OSB. It is not recommended to use moisture resistant materials, for example, GKL.

Garage roof insulation

If the garage is built separately from the house, you will have to insulate all its structures, and not just the walls, including the roof. After all, heated air is lighter than cold air and rises, penetrating through building structures and melting snow on the roof. The method of fastening foam sheets depends on the design of the floor. If the roof is made of boards, then it is worth “grabbing” the material with “umbrella” dowels or ordinary nails, and then closing it with sheet materials, attaching them to the plank base with long screws.

If the garage is closed concrete slab, for insulation from the inside of a concrete garage, or rather its roof, you will need a frame that is attached to the slabs using metal corners and self-tapping screws that are screwed into plastic dowels. The foam must be laid along the frame, securing it with adhesive tape, and then pressing it with a sheathing that is attached to the frame.

The foam plastic does not let moisture through, so it makes no sense to perform its vapor and waterproofing. But when using fiber insulation, additional measures are required related to protection from moisture. From the side of the roof, waterproofing must be laid, and from the side of the garage, vapor barrier, which prevents the penetration of moisture in the form of steam.

If desired, additional antiseptic and decorative treatment can be performed: paint the plaster with lime, chalk or water-based compositions, TsSP and GKL to cover with oil or acrylic paints, having previously sealed the seams with putty.

Ceiling insulation in a shelter for a car can be done according to a different scheme. Create for this and insulate the ceiling so that an attic appears in the garage. The floor of the attic is fixed on wooden beams. On the boards, a crate is created for the insulation boards, then the heat-insulating material is laid. In conclusion, boards are placed on top of the structure so that you can move around the attic.

It is not always necessary to insulate the floor in the garage. Often they arrange a basement under the garage for storing canned goods and vegetables. If there is no cellar, then it is necessary to isolate the room from frozen and wet soil. To do this, deepen the floor by 30 centimeters, level it, then fill it with crushed stone by 10 centimeters, arrange a sand cushion of 5 centimeters on top, tamp it down, fill it with hot bitumen and make concrete screed that is reinforced with iron mesh.

The garage space has multifunctional purpose, since in addition to parking a vehicle, a workshop or a place to store supplies and household utensils can be equipped there. Therefore, it is important to create the required microclimate in the garage, providing high-quality thermal insulation.

The need for insulation and ventilation

Parking and storage of vehicles in the garage should take place under certain conditions that will favor the preservation operational properties and durability of the vehicle.

Basic requirements for maintaining the microclimate in the garage:

• in the cold season, the temperature should be within +5 degrees Celsius, which is the optimal value for storing a car;
• the room must be equipped with a ventilation system that provides an air flow of about 180 cubic meters. m. per hour per unit of vehicle.

The opinion of some motorists that the temperature of the storage room close to room temperature is favorable for the car is erroneous. Keeping the car in such conditions during the winter can have negative consequences. This is due to the fact that condensation will inevitably occur, which leads to the development of corrosion.

The garage must be warm.

There is another typical mistake during the performance of thermal insulation works. It is connected with the fact that all places where an influx of external air into the garage is possible are eliminated, and ventilation openings are not excluded. Lack of ventilation can lead to extremely negative consequences for human health, up to and including death.

In addition, one should not forget about such a phenomenon as thermal inertia, it affects the rate of change in the temperature of bodies over time. Therefore, thermal insulation should be designed in such a way that the index of its thermal inertia increases inward, and the thermal conductivity, on the contrary, decreases.

The physical essence of heat transfer

When insulating a garage, it is important to carry out right choice thermal insulation materials. It is difficult to do this without understanding the essence of the ongoing heat transfer processes. For the conditions of the garage premises, the following physical processes are of interest:

• convective heat transfer thermal energy is transmitted from a body with a higher temperature to a less heated one;
• conductive heat transfer, which occurs by transferring heat from hotter areas of the body to areas of lower temperature;
• thermal radiation, which is electromagnetic, occurring due to the internal energy of the body.

Thus, the most effective will be such a heater that prevents the flow of convective and conductive processes and has the ability to reflect thermal radiation.

Garage wall insulation materials

Mineral wool

Garage insulation in many cases is carried out using mineral wool, which does not disturb the “breathing” of the room. In the production of work on the insulation of external surfaces, rigid mats are used, and for internal surfaces, mats with less rigidity are used.

The leader in terms of thermal conductivity and sound absorption is basalt mineral wool. The use of mineral wool requires a vapor barrier layer. It is necessary to protect the material from the influence of atmospheric moisture and preserve its properties.

It should be understood that the use of such a powerful insulation is advisable when the garage is part of a residential building. Under other conditions this is not necessary.

glass wool

The cost of glass wool is significantly lower than the price of mineral wool. The difference is at the level of 20-25%. The properties of the material are such that it is dangerous to work without the use of special gloves that protect against its fibers. The ingress of water on glass wool leads to its total damage. Wet fibers increase their mass and become lumpy. In addition, the heat-insulating ability is completely lost and an extremely unpleasant odor appears. In order to prevent such negative phenomena, it is necessary to isolate the entire material with foil or film.

Styrofoam

Insulating a garage with polystyrene foam is one of the most popular ways to insulate rooms. This is due to the ease of working with it, low weight, manufacturability during processing, low level of water absorption, resistance to biological factors and affordable price. best qualities polystyrene foam has a high rate of vapor and water permeability, as well as a long service life.

The disadvantages of this polymer include poor breathability and flammability. It is desirable to use self-extinguishing foam, which is able to stop burning in a matter of seconds if the flame source is neutralized. Material when exposed sun rays turns yellow.

Reflective thermal insulation

The appearance of reflective thermal insulation in the building materials market was the result of innovative ideas in the field of energy saving. Foamed polyurethane foam is used as the material on one side, and polished foil on the other.

The rolled material has a thickness of 2-5 mm, which makes it possible to cover the surface. The material is highly effective in reducing heat loss by radiation, but does not provide sufficient protection against convection and conduction.

Warm plaster

This material is a plaster with an unusual composition. It is possible to use expanded vermiculite, sawdust, expanded polystyrene as a filler.

It should be understood that in order to obtain the desired heat-insulating effect, it is necessary to create a layer of material that is significant in thickness and mass. A combination of warm plaster with other types of heaters is more appropriate.

Thermal insulation paint

It is possible to insulate the garage with the help of liquid heat insulators, which, in addition to the main function, give the building an attractive appearance. These materials are based on acrylic polymers, into which synthetic rubber and pigments of organic origin are introduced. In terms of consistency, the heat insulator is similar to ordinary paint, but at the same time its 1 mm layer can replace 50 mm of mineral wool.

Paint with thermal insulation properties can be applied to a surface consisting of almost any material. It has good vapor permeability and is easy to use.

Insulation of garage walls from the outside

It is recommended to insulate the garage from the outside using polystyrene foam. This material has the required thermal insulation properties at an affordable cost. At the same time, in places where exposure to high temperatures is possible during the operation of equipment or heating devices, it is necessary to provide for the replacement of plastic with non-combustible mineral wool slabs.

Before installing the foam boards, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First of all, a thorough cleaning of the walls and the removal of surface defects should be carried out. After that, it is desirable to prime it for better adhesion to the insulation material.

Styrofoam can be attached to the garage wall using the point method of applying the solution, followed by tight pressing to the plane. The slab method is simpler, in which the solution is evenly applied with a spatula.

Laying of plates should occur from the bottom up in a checkerboard pattern. The first row is laid using an initial plank fixed to the wall. To make the fastening of the plates reliable, they are additionally attached using plastic dowels.

Due to the low strength of the insulation material, it becomes necessary to clad it. For this, plastering with fiberglass mesh reinforcement and further application of a layer is used. decorative plaster and paints. Often used for this siding or materials of a similar purpose.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside

Internal insulation of the garage is made in rare cases. If such a need arose, then the order of work will be as follows. A prefabricated false partition is attached to the prepared surface, in the frame of which a heater is inserted.

In addition to drywall, you can use asbestos fiber. This material has a high level of fire resistance, but it has significant fragility. This necessitates the creation of a frame with a smaller step.

Cotton wool insulation is widely used, which is explained by the greater ease of work compared to polystyrene foam. For mounting cotton wool, special hooks are used. A prerequisite at the same time, it is necessary to create a vapor barrier using a membrane.

The application of modern liquid heaters for thermal insulation of metal structures of garages allows you to achieve the desired effect. You can reduce the cost of money and time when insulating an iron garage by installing foam boards with glue. The main condition for reliable fastening of the material is careful surface preparation. Joints of plates must be blown out using building foam.

Garage door insulation

It is possible to reduce heat loss through garage doors at the design stage. If a gate is provided in one of the wings, then there is no need to open them completely. Also an effective method of retaining heat is to create a curtain of plastic or fabric.

Styrofoam is the most optimal heat insulator for garage door insulation. For this purpose, a crate is created on their inside, in which foam plates are laid, followed by sealing the joints between them.

During the operation of insulated gates, condensation forms at the points of contact between the metal and the heat insulator. Therefore, metal surfaces must have a protective layer of anti-corrosion material and additional waterproofing. After that, a frame is mounted for attaching the skin wooden slats or OSB.

Garage roof insulation

In the case when the garage is a separate structure, it becomes necessary to insulate its roof. To fix the thermal insulation, a technique is used that corresponds to the material from which the ceiling is made. If it has a wooden base, then the foam can be fixed with dowels or nails, and then lined with a suitable facing material.

With a concrete floor, it is necessary to build a frame, reinforced metal corners and self-tapping screws. The foam is laid on the frame and pre-fixed with adhesive tape. When fixing the sheet material of the sheathing, the insulation is tightly pressed against the ceiling.

If fiber-based insulation is used, then waterproofing measures are necessary. A layer of waterproofing is placed on one side of the roof, and a vapor barrier is arranged on the side of the garage.

To protect against the effects of biological factors, antiseptic treatment is carried out, and to improve appearance- decorative surface cladding with various compositions or paints.

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