How to make wall insulation with polystyrene foam from the outside with your own hands (with video). Do-it-yourself wall insulation with polystyrene foam - detailed instructions

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Today we will talk with you about the insulation of walls outside with polystyrene foam with your own hands and you can also watch a video about this process on our website. This is a popular insulation solution that provides the desired performance and durability.

A wide variety of solutions are presented on the modern building materials market, which are great for insulation inside and outside buildings, for basements, baths, attics, etc. They differ in characteristics, properties, service life and application nuances.

We can insulate walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene thanks to Dow Chemical. It was this enterprise that first produced extruded polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene, namely extruded, got its name due to the device for its manufacture and the method itself - extruder and extrusion, respectively.

It is not difficult to distinguish polystyrene foam against the background of other heaters.

• Expanded polystyrene is available in the form of plates of various colors;
• The surface of the insulation material is smooth;
• When broken, the inside of the expanded polystyrene resembles foam rubber.

Many do not see the difference between extruded polystyrene foam and ordinary foam at all. Maybe they just didn't look at them.

Yes, the foam is also presented in the form of plates, but when broken, we get granules. In this case, we are talking about expanded polystyrene foam, which has completely different properties and characteristics.

What is most pleasant, despite the obvious advantages of extruded polystyrene foam, its price is approximately equal to polystyrene foam. That is, we are talking about a fairly affordable and effective facade insulation.

What to use?

As soon as expanded polystyrene came out, it began to be used as a heater for brick, concrete houses, basements, change houses and other surfaces and structures. But the rules for correct application developed gradually. Experts took into account errors and shortcomings, which made it possible to come to the appropriate conclusions.

If earlier reviews of polystyrene foam were not the most positive, today this material is deservedly considered one of the best heaters for walls, basements, plinths, etc.

But in order to achieve maximum efficiency, extruded polystyrene foam should be properly disposed of with your own hands.

1. If mistakes are made at the stages of insulation, facades can quickly collapse. The culprit is one of the properties of expanded polystyrene - complete vapor barrier.
2. To work with facades and their insulation, only grooved polystyrene foam is used. It has a special marking - PSB 25F.
3. All other types of extruded polystyrene foam are suitable for insulating the basement, roof, basement, floor, but not the facade.
4. In order for PSB 25F to show its best side, mandatory waterproofing is required.
5. The peculiarity of such polystyrene foam is that it is able to remove moisture from the walls. Due to this, favorable conditions for the growth and development of mold and fungus are not created.
6. If moisture remains trapped under the insulation, the facade will gradually begin to collapse.

For what facades is expanded polystyrene used?

The choice of thermal insulation material largely depends on what exactly the building is built from. Not every heat insulator is suitable for a particular house, basement, structure.

Plus, there is another important clarification regarding the use of polystyrene foam. This insulation must have flame retardant treatment. This requirement is due to the combustibility of the material.

Warming process

Thinking about insulating the walls outside with polystyrene foam with your own hands, video tutorials will help answer many questions. Insulation of brick walls from the outside has great importance for the efficiency and duration of operation of the house itself. If you study the video and read the recommendations of experts, it will not be as difficult to do the insulation yourself as you might think at first glance.

Having decided that it will be polystyrene foam that will be used as a heater for the facade and basement of your house, you can get to work. Many companies that manufacture insulation today sell not only polystyrene foam itself, but also related materials and products for its installation. Therefore, we recommend purchasing from such manufacturers.

1. Training. The surface of brick, concrete, other walls must be pre-prepared. To do this, remove all debris, remove lagging sections of plaster and paint with your own hands. Make sure that there are no damages on the brick blocks, the seams are in excellent condition. If the facade needs minor repairs, be sure to carry it out. The outer decorative layer sometimes has to be completely removed and replaced with a new one. Although this will only add to your home's external appeal.
2. Primer before insulation. Priming is one of the stages of preparation, but we will specifically separate it into a separate step. The primer is of great importance in terms of achieving optimal insulation performance. Use primers with deep penetration. Applying them by hand is not difficult.
3. Hangers for insulation. Ideal walls should not have irregularities, but at the same time they are absolutely even. But in practice, it is extremely difficult to obtain such a result. Therefore, you will have to install suspensions, level the walls and wait for the leveling compound to dry completely.
4. Installation of insulation sheets. Installation of expanded polystyrene is carried out on a special glue. Mostly adhesives from different manufacturers, designed for this insulation, have the same principle of application. You need to prepare a small amount of glue and use it immediately. Within an hour, the composition will dry out and become unsuitable for further use. Glue is applied to the entire surface of the sheet with your own hands, or to five points - along the edges and in the center. Try to cover as much of the insulation as possible.
5. Insulation sheets. Do-it-yourself preliminary measurements will allow you to determine how many sheets you need to insulate the basement, facade and other selected surfaces. If necessary, cut for installation in hard-to-reach places. It is recommended to choose rough panels, or do it yourself with your own hands. This significantly increases the adhesion index between polystyrene foam and glue.
6. Knitting heaters. Expanded polystyrene insulation sheets must be fixed according to the principle chessboard. Therefore, each even row, start with a heater cut into two parts.
7. gaps between insulation. If gaps cannot be avoided, pour into this space liquid foam or insert pieces of Styrofoam. You will still have some waste.
8. Mechanical fixation. Glue alone cannot cope with wind loads, therefore it needs the help of dowels with umbrellas. There are about 5 such dowels for each sheet of insulation. Do not forget to process each umbrella with glue after installation.
9. Reinforcement. For this, hard and soft fiberglass mesh is used. With the help of a rigid mesh, the walls themselves are strengthened, and soft reinforcement will be required for the corners. Plus, it is desirable to supplement the corners with a profile corner.
10. Plaster. Now you just have to do the plastering with your own hands. Polymer has proven itself best plaster mix. But the choice is yours.

Extruded polystyrene foam is a high-quality insulation with a wide range of advantages and positive properties. His choice is justified.

There is an opinion that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are synonyms. Perhaps due to the fact that these popular materials have a common origin, the same scope of use. For the production of both materials, the same raw material is used - polystyrene, but they are made according to different technologies. As a result, heaters with different physical and technical properties come out. The choice of products for thermal insulation of facades, first of all, is influenced by the thickness and density of the material. Styrofoam is made by processing polystyrene balls with dry steam, connecting them. It turns out a light porous, but very fragile heat insulator, which has the lowest cost.

Expanded polystyrene is produced by extrusion of raw materials, having a structured material with high density, strength, sound and heat insulation at the output. Despite significant differences in properties, the technology for insulating walls outside the house with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam is the same. They are used in different cases.

Choosing a heater

Styrofoam products of different brands are used outside where there are no large loads, there is no possibility of mechanical impacts and an inexpensive material is needed. This is its disadvantages. Basically, preference is still given to expanded polystyrene. And that's why:

• having the same geometric dimensions with foam insulation, it withstands six times greater bending loads;
• does not crumble and has a high density with low weight;
• has low moisture absorption and sound permeability, excellent thermal conductivity.

If we talk about what types of foam plastic exist for insulating walls from the outside, then it is classified by size. Mainly 1000×500 mm, 1000×1000 mm and 2000×1000 mm slabs are produced, designated by different brands. Their thickness can be 50 and 100 mm. Expanded polystyrene is produced in a wider range, with a layer thickness from 1.0 cm to 10.0 cm. In order to make a correct calculation of the need for a heat insulator, it is necessary to take measurements from each side of the house from the outside. Make a plan and put on it the layout of the sheets, not forgetting about the window and door blocks. This will make it clear what size panel you need to purchase and how many you need.

Preparing the walls for the installation of insulation

The technology for insulating a building from the outside with sheets of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene provides for mandatory surface preparation. An exception is made for the hinged ventilated facade system. The preparatory process consists of the following works:

• do-it-yourself dismantling of all decorative elements protruding from the outside, equipment, communications;
• elimination of peeling pieces of plaster, sagging, sealing cracks;
• cleaning from dirt, dust, foreign objects;
• applying a leveling plaster layer, in the presence of irregularities, chips, shells;
• coating with a primer on dried plaster for two times; the second layer of primer is applied from the outside with your own hands after the first has completely dried.

Now the surface of the facade is considered prepared for further work. Such preparation is needed for brick, aerated concrete, concrete surfaces. For warming wooden houses, it is better to use mineral wool.

The technology of wall insulation from the outside with expanded polystyrene

The step-by-step process of the final part of the construction goes like this. insulate private house or other premises from the inside - the occupation is not very effective, work must be carried out outside. Expanded polystyrene panels are fixed with their own hands to the prepared base with a special glue. It is produced in dry form and brought to the desired plasticity by adding water and thoroughly mixing with a mixer. The recommended consumption is indicated in the instructions on the package. Sometimes glue is applied to the surface of the wall and sheets of insulation are pressed tightly against it. Most often, the adhesive mixture is evenly distributed over the expanded polystyrene, then fixed to the plane.

If nevertheless brick facade has some irregularities, then the glue is not smeared on the panel, but a different technology is used. First, a rather thick layer is laid around the perimeter, then in separate piles along the entire plane of the insulation. In this form, the expanded polystyrene is pressed against the plane, squeezing out the excess solution and removing them. The thickness of the solution will fill all the shells and bumps. The consumption of glue in this case increases. This technology is usually used when facing wooden log cabins, although for them it is better to choose a mineral wool of a suitable brand with a good density.

At the corners of the building, sheets of heat insulator must be laid by bandaging from one wall to another. When framing windows and doorways cross joints are prohibited. Cutouts are made from solid pieces of thermal insulation. Vertical seams must be performed with an offset along the rows. With two-layer insulation, you need to ensure that the seams also do not match. For greater strength and density, the heat insulator is fixed from the outside with dish-shaped dowels.

Siding insulation device

Finishing siding outside provides for the arrangement of the frame. At the same time, the expanded polystyrene boards must lie tightly on the base. If the frame is made from wooden elements, then the heat insulator sheets must be mounted close to the bars. You can fill the slats on top of the heat-insulating layer. But then all the resulting cracks and holes should be filled with mounting foam. This option is desirable to use when warming wooden houses.

In the case of using a frame made of metal brackets and profiles, it must be remembered that all gaps under the profiles must be filled with insulating material. Otherwise, “cold bridges” will appear and there will be little sense from warming. The frame construction process is as follows:

• the marking of the installation sites of the brackets is carried out;
• mounting brackets;
• laying polystyrene panels with glue and pushing them onto fasteners; the areas of interface of plates with brackets are reinforced with mounting foam or sealant for outdoor work;
• installation of vertical profiles.

With the aim of additional protection expanded polystyrene from external influences and to enhance the thermal insulation properties of the heat insulator, it is covered with a geotextile membrane.

Thermal insulation device for plastering

Since decorative wet plasters (such as bark beetle) create a fairly thin layer on the facade, the insulation must be laid perfectly evenly. From below, along the wall, you should strengthen the starting profile with your own hands, the width of which should be commensurate with the thickness of the extruded polystyrene sheet. A plaster mesh must be placed on top of the profile, cutting it in such a way that a part of the panel can be wrapped with a free edge. Then the wall surface is filled with insulating products, reinforced with glue and dowels. Seams and joints are filled with mounting foam or sealant. Irregularities and roughness are removed by grinding with fine emery, a grater or a typewriter, aligning the plane with a level.

Over the corners of door and window openings, mesh scarves are placed, which will protect the decorative layer in these places from cracking. The heat-insulating surface is covered with glue, into which the fiberglass mesh is embedded. After drying, you can start applying textured mixtures.

Filipino natives can easily do without styrofoam insulation in their homes, given the stable heat on the islands all year round, but in our case, abandoning good wall insulation in winter is like going out into the cold without a hat - you can, but it’s stupid and unpleasant.

Together with the experts of the publication, we figure out how to insulate a house inside and out, what is extruded polystyrene foam and what is the best way to insulate - with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene?

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Pros of Styrofoam

1. high strength with light weight;
2. low vapor permeability and noise absorption;
3. high resistance to chemicals;
4. environmentally friendly;
5. fireproof;
6. moisture resistant;
7. retains its original shape throughout the entire period of operation;
8. low cost.

Cons of Styrofoam

1. fragility.

Styrofoam insulation technology

Usually, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of a room from the outside, but it is also suitable for internal insulation of residential premises, albeit with reservations: PPS "steals" space, is not "breathable" and, when insulated from the inside, spreads a characteristic smell. It is better to pay attention to other material.

For gluing PPS to the wall, a special adhesive is used (glue or foam for polystyrene foam). As a rule, this is a dry mixture, which is diluted in water before use. warm water room temperature and knead to a uniform, lump-free consistency.

IMPORTANT! When working with extruded polystyrene foam, glue or foam is applied in advance, approximately one hour before the PPS is attached, in a uniform layer on the wall and on the sheet itself.

Use special dowels, plastic nails with "umbrella" hats. It is advisable to combine both glue and dowels.

Surface preparation and sheeting technology

Work progress:

IMPORTANT! All work on wall insulation must be carried out on a dry day at a temperature not lower than +5 °C.

Insulation of the house with polystyrene foam

Both wooden, and frame, and brick houses can be insulated with the help of PPS. Owners of private houses are increasingly using expanded polystyrene for outdoor insulation. insulate frame house- a relatively new achievement, not all cottage owners trust him.

The sequence of warming a frame house:

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The above technology is relevant for self-insulation walls with polystyrene foam. But which is better to choose a heater, what types are offered? Maybe liquid is better? How to correctly calculate the thickness?

The main stages of external insulation:

1. prepare surfaces: cleaning, puttying cracks and cracks;
2. prepare an adhesive mixture or use polyurethane foam-glue;
3. apply glue to the expanded polystyrene plates: first lay out the edging, in the middle - dotted;
4. fix the plates with dowels with mushroom-shaped plastic caps;
5. coat the plates with glue, apply a reinforcing mesh;
6. putty the seams;
7. plaster, primed walls, apply decorative plaster or paint.

Ceiling insulation

Few people think about insulating the ceiling from the inside, but if the ceiling is not insulated, then all the heat goes up to the ceiling and out into the street. If desired, even a non-professional can insulate the ceiling, the installation technology is so simple:

1. count the number required material- multiply the length of the room by the width;
2. clean the ceiling from whitewash or wallpaper;
3. complete all electrical work;
4. eliminate all roughness on the ceiling before starting work, since the surface of the ceiling must be even;
5. to carry out work preferably in the warm season;
6. after cleaning, treat the ceiling surface with a primer solution;
7. prepare sheets, if necessary, cut them, adjusting to the dimensions of the ceiling;
8. fix in a checkerboard pattern using dowels;
9. fix the paint grid on the surface and putty;

For their insulation, a shell of expanded polystyrene is used. Today, thanks to its reliability and durability, it is the most the best way. Styrofoam shell offered different diameter, which is very convenient, since you can choose the insulation for any pipes Ø from 17 mm to 1220 mm.

In the event of an accident, it is possible to quickly gain access to a certain place through special grooves, which will allow you to easily and quickly dismantle the insulation and then return everything to its place.

IMPORTANT! It has been confirmed that such insulation will be able to protect the pipe for up to 50 years at temperatures up to -70°C.

• window slopes

This method of window insulation is used in wooden buildings lined with bricks. Brick is colder than wood, and the temperature difference leads to condensation, freezing of windows, which deforms the window structure.

Stages of work:

1. cut polystyrene foam into strips 5-8 cm thick;
2. paste over the outer slopes around the window with them, which forms a spade in relation to the inner slope;
3. after the glue has dried, install the window by mounting the fasteners to the wall and filling the gaps with mounting foam;
4. from the outside, the slopes must be plastered after the glue and foam have dried, which, after settling, will not let cold air through.

• armored belt

The implementation of the insulation of the armored belt should be carried out from the outside of the building. It is better to insulate directly during construction. For this, a colored polystyrene foam plate measuring 60x120cm is suitable:

1. cut the plate in half lengthwise and fix it on the wall;
2. putty joints with sealant and paint.

• doors

The main heat loss occurs through entrance doors. You can insulate PPS as wooden doors, and metal.

• Insulation of wooden doors:

1. cut a single piece from a sheet of expanded polystyrene to the size of a wooden sheet;
2. stick it on the door;
3. cover with sheathing material;
4. around the perimeter door leaf fill the slats (thickness over a sheet of polystyrene foam);
5. between the slats lay insulation on the glue;
6. on top of the rails, fill the finish in the form of laminated MDF, chipboard or plywood.

• Insulation of metal doors:

IMPORTANT! Usually, in the manufacture of metal doors, sheet material is used, welded on the sides with corners, i.e. inside there are voids that should be filled from the inside for additional insulation.

1. take the dimensions (width and length) of the canvas along which the fiberboard panel will be cut in order to close the expanded polystyrene layer;
2. dimensions of the door leaf for transfer to fiberboard plywood, note the location and dimensions of the handle and peephole, cut openings for them;
3. to check the correctness of all marks, it is necessary to attach the panel directly to the door;
4. cut sheets of polystyrene foam with a sharp knife and glue them to the inside of the door leaf with silicone, which is applied in a uniform dense layer over the entire surface;
5. keep in mind that the thickness of the expanded polystyrene is determined by the size of the corner shelf;
6. close the insulation with a panel of fiberboard, put a bit on a screwdriver and screw it with self-tapping screws to the door leaf;

IMPORTANT! Stiffening rib metal door made from a hollow tube winter period it freezes and the effect of the "refrigerator" is observed. It should be filled from the inside with mounting foam by drilling holes in the pipe with a drill, where the foam is poured.

• basement

If the basement on the first floors is not properly designed, condensation is possible at low surface temperatures. Consequences - mold, fungus. The foundation needs to be insulated, even if the exploited basement is not provided for in the house.

Features of basement or cellar insulation with polystyrene foam

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

1. not subject to attacks by rodents;
2. not very fragile;
3. waterproof;
4. easy to process;
5. low weight, which eliminates the additional load on the load-bearing structures.

Cons of extruded polystyrene foam

1. will cost more;
2. combustible and toxic.

It is necessary to carry out all work on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation or basement even at the construction stage. If they are not done, during operation you should:

• create a drainage system;
• perform waterproofing of the protruding parts of the foundation and plinth;
• insulate the basement inside and out.

Installation with polystyrene foam

1. seal cracks and voids in the walls with mounting foam or sealant;
2. irregularities that interfere with the fastening of the plates, plaster;
3. walls treated with waterproofing material - liquid rubber, bituminous mastic, roll material;
4. glue foam polystyrene plates on the surface from bottom to top end-to-end, the next row is mounted on the previous one with a run-out of seams;
5. fix additionally with dowels (5 pcs per workpiece);
6. foam the seams;
7. outside to process the plates with plaster. The use of fiberglass reinforcing mesh in the process is recommended;
8. apply penetrating waterproofing to the cellar ceiling;
9. stick the plates and fix the dowel-nails;
10. stick fiberglass mesh and plaster.

• With a base of reinforced concrete slabs:

1. waterproofing with a double layer of roofing material with a coating between the layers with bituminous mastic;
2. lay high-density polystyrene foam or extruded PPS;
3. produce a screed.

• With an earthen basement or cellar:

1. remove the sod and level the surface;
2. place waterproofing material;
3. pour a gravel-sand pillow, tamp;
4. an alternative to a pillow would be expanded clay or sawdust-clay mixture
5. lay insulation;
6. produce a screed.

The basement is ready for finishing, for this they use paint, plaster, porcelain tiles.

Facade insulation

Work progress:

1. prepare the walls and prime;
2. the waterproofing of the basement is carried out after it dries; for this, compositions based on epoxy resins are perfect;
3. glue and fix the plates with plastic dowels (both dry mixes and glue in cylinders, for example, ST-84, are suitable for fixing polystyrene foam);
4. finish with a facade mesh using a reinforcing composition;
5. on top of the protective layer, any type of finish is possible: decorative stone, siding, decorative plaster compositions.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the basement, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam - it is tougher.

Insulation of the foundation of the house from the outside

Before starting work, it should be determined what thickness of the PPS will be sufficient to insulate the foundation.

Technology:

1. apply glue on the plate pointwise (in each corner and in the center from 6-8 points, diameter from 10-15 cm, thickness 1 cm);
2. after application, wait 1 min, press the polystyrene foam to the base of the foundation;
3. insulation to start from the corner of the foundation from the bottom;
4. the second row is fixed so that the center of the plate is located above the joint of the plates of the 1st row;
5. fill the trench with sand to the middle of the slab;
6. compact the sand;
7. create an additional layer of thermal insulation at the corners of the foundation;
8. laying polystyrene foam on the base with glue;
9. fill up the trench;
10. make a blind area around the house: fill the area around the perimeter of the building with sand and crushed stone (gravel) and pour cement mortar.

Blind area insulation

As a rule, the blind area is made around the entire perimeter of the building from concrete. It adjoins close to the foundation and protects it from adverse atmospheric influences.

Advantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

1. frost resistance;
2. minimum water absorption;
3. resistance to mold and mildew;
4. excellent thermal insulation;
5. resistance to high temperatures;
6. light weight;
7. ease of installation.

Cons of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

1. creates a favorable environment for the reproduction of fungi and mold;
2. fire hazard.

Most often, PPS is used to insulate the blind area:

• laying the material in one layer with sheets 100 mm thick or 50 mm in two layers;
• lay high-density polyethylene (plantera, isostud) on a layer of expanded polystyrene for waterproofing the joints of sheets.

• Wells

The protection of wells, especially in rural areas, is very relevant - water supply is necessary at any time of the year. It is necessary to insulate a well cover made of wood and fixed inside the structure itself.

The cover serves as protection against:

• temperature fluctuations;
• snow and rain ingress;
• dry leaves and other debris.

There are 3 thermal insulation technologies:

• thermal insulation of the upper ring;
• insulation of the structure cover;
• construction of a decorative house.

Work progress:

1. cut two shields along the diameter;
2. wrap one with foil and lower it into the well below ground level;
3. fix it on hangers;
4. top must be insulated with foam;
5. the second shield is insulated in the same way and placed in the well 0.8 m - 1.2 m above the first;

• Overlappings

In a residential building, floors are divided into:

1. attic;
2. basement;
3. basement;
4. interfloor.

The cheapest PPS is suitable for thermal insulation of the floor slab, and the cracks are filled with construction foam. Regarding wooden floors, then insulating material placed between wooden beams.

PPS really insulate rooms for any purpose, including baths: the properties of the material are ideally preserved at 100% humidity. After insulation, a crate is usually mounted from a metal profile or from a bar for siding or other facing material, such as corrugated board or panels.

A great option would be to insulate the outer walls with expanded polystyrene foam. Quite often, foam block walls are insulated with polystyrene foam, the application technology is standard.

For the thermal insulation of the bath, the technologies of the “ventilated and “wet” facade are used:

1. preparation of walls and calculation of the amount of required insulation;
2. installation of expanded polystyrene, when the sheets are glued end-to-end with a polyurethane, cement, acrylic adhesive mixture;
3. large gaps are foamed with mounting foam;
4. installation of a crate from a metal profile or from a bar for siding or other facing material, such as corrugated board or panels.

Warm plaster, which includes expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay chips, cement, sawdust, plasticizers, is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties. In the bath, as a rule, not only the walls outside and inside, but also the ceiling and floor are insulated.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) is an eco-friendly material that does not absorb water and does not rot. They are equally good at insulating walls both outside and inside, while the thickness is calculated.

When installing it, there is no need for additional waterproofing:

1. to attach the material to metal gate, good mounting adhesive designed specifically for this kind of work. Liquid nails of quick solidification are quite suitable;
2. prepare sheets, according to the required dimensions, and glue to the surface. At the same time, it is advisable to seal the joints with mounting foam;
3. create another layer from plastic panels, wooden planks or plywood.

Extruded polystyrene foam for home insulation

To date, extruded polystyrene foam is actively used for insulation of frame and wooden houses, as well as for warming the apartment from the inside, where the only obstacle may be the thickness of the insulation.

The external method of installing thermal insulation is safer and more effective than insulation from the inside. When installing insulation inside the apartment, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is reduced due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This also applies to small basements.

The process of internal insulation is carried out strictly according to the technology of installation of a heat-insulating system. The dew point shifts and condensation is possible on the walls, which forms mold, also collapses thermal insulation layer and the supporting structures themselves.

If we consider the installation of insulation inside the apartment, then there is a decrease in area due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This problem also applies to the basement, if it is small in size, then you are unlikely to like it if it becomes even smaller.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam

Independent thermal insulation of a house or apartment is possible. Usually, internal insulation is carried out due to the impossibility of doing it from the outside, for example, if the room is of historical value.

Floor insulation

Expanded polystyrene is also used for floor insulation without a screed, directly on the foam boards:

1. lay the vapor barrier layer on the floors,
2. top - polystyrene foam plates;
3. there is no need to lay waterproofing, you can immediately equip the floor covering.

In a garage or basement, in order to save money, a concrete floor is laid on top of the ground. And here it is important to insulate the lower part of the building with high quality, since high-quality hydro and thermal insulation in winter will help maintain a comfortable temperature.

Wooden floor insulation

When laying the thermal insulation of wooden floors, preference is given to natural materials. The flooring is mounted directly on concrete screed, then the wooden floor is insulated with polystyrene foam.

All work is carried out even during the construction process: first, sand or gravel is poured, then logs are installed, and expanded polystyrene plates are placed between them (in between). A screed is poured from above and a wooden floor is laid.

concrete floor insulation

Laying technology is in many ways reminiscent of floor insulation under a screed, only more laborious. Do not forget that when the concrete floor is insulated with polystyrene foam, as a rule, the height of the room is “eaten up”.

Sometimes such deviations are allowed:

• the thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm. The same value is left for the thickness of the expanded polystyrene;
• with a flat floor surface, you can install only insulation boards and win a few desired centimeters.

Balcony insulation

Styrofoam really insulate a balcony or loggia. Extruded polystyrene and polystyrene will be equally good for this.

Insulation installation:

1. Cut the PPS to the size of the balcony walls and floor on which it will be laid;
2. treat the walls with a dotted adhesive solution, retreating from the edges of 5-7 mm;
3. press polystyrene insulation boards to the wall of the loggia;
4. apply glue 2-3 mm thick to the surface of the insulation;
5. additionally strengthen the material with plastic dowels - "mushrooms" (6-7 pieces per 1 m²);
6. attach a reinforcing mesh on top with a mesh frequency of 5 mm, without sinking it into the adhesive solution;
7. let the glue dry.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can be performed in several ways:

• flooring;
• gluing;
• investment in the crate;
• mechanical fastening.

IMPORTANT! Mounting methods can be combined.

Attic insulation

Owners of private houses convert attic space into an attic, buildings with gable roof. Naturally, cold attic should be thermally insulated, for this use polystyrene foam plates.

Master Class:

Wall insulation from the outside with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene turned out to be an excellent insulation under plaster for the walls of houses, both outside and inside. But is it possible to insulate them outside the walls of aerated concrete? And will such insulation be effective?

Features of aerated concrete walls

In the production of blocks, which include sand, cement, limestone, a special technology is used, which gives them good rigidity and thermal insulation qualities.

But why insulate walls made of aerated concrete if they are already warm? Worth it if you live in a cold northern area. Insulation on the outside of walls made of PPS aerated concrete is produced as a temporary option or "economy" due to poor permeability of materials. These warnings also apply to the insulation of the foundation, bath and basement.

• Floor insulation with polystyrene foam

How is the insulation of a wooden and concrete floor, on the ground, under a screed and without a screed, we discussed how the floors are insulated, for example, in a garage?

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As for the laminate this species coatings are becoming more and more popular every day due to the ease of installation. It is better to insulate the floor under the laminate, otherwise it will be possible to walk on it only in slippers.

Warming of the concrete floor in the bath is carried out after the construction of the building. As an insulating layer, expanded clay, polystyrene foam and even glass bottles are often used.

Installation sequence:

Half of the first floor always needs to be insulated, and a whole range of work is needed to insulate the floor. Moreover, it is desirable to carry out floor insulation above a cold attic from above, and thermal protection above the basement - from below.

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor:

1. dismantling of the old floor covering;
2. laying a vapor barrier layer;
3. insulation PPS;
4. laying a layer of polyethylene film;
5. reinforcing screed with cement mortar;
6. new finish.

The thickness of the insulation layer on the ground floor should be at least 80-100 mm.

Some features of insulation:

• Roofs

Of course, the insulation of the PPS roof of the attic increases the life of the roof. According to its characteristics, PPS is similar to polystyrene, but the technology for its use for roof insulation is different.

Insulation of the attic with extruded polystyrene foam consists in laying rafters on top in order to exclude the appearance of even the slightest gaps. Expanded polystyrene boards are made specifically with joints of the form of a step or a “thorn-in-groove” design.

• roofs

The technology of floor insulation is similar to roof insulation. The bottom layer in this case should be a vapor barrier film endowed with anti-condensation properties, and the top layer should be a waterproofing film. When water leaks, it is the film that will protect the insulation from waterlogging.

Expanded polystyrene plates are laid in the space between ceiling beams while filling the cracks.

• plinth

The technology for insulating the basement of a house is quite simple, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

• foundation

Full thermal insulation of the foundation should consist of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The vertical section is PPS slabs mounted on the outer walls of the foundation tape, while the horizontal section should form a continuous belt around the perimeter of the building being erected, as the technology provides.

The required thickness of the insulation is calculated by the formula. The technology also provides for the insulation of the soil around the foundation, which is isolated from sub-zero temperatures by an insulated blind area, no more than a meter wide.

Styrofoam insulation from the inside

If you plan to use the loggia or balcony area solely for storing things, then one layer is enough to insulate the wall.

For external thermal insulation, sheets with a thickness of at least 50 mm are used.

• What is better for insulation foam or polystyrene foam?

The difference lies in the production technology. Styrofoam is produced by dry steam treatment of polystyrene granules; during thermal expansion, they “stick” to each other, which forms micropores.

Expanded polystyrene is made by the “extrusion” method: polystyrene granules are melted, which contributes to the formation of bonds at the molecular level, so a single structure arises.

By physical and technical specifications there are also differences.

The advantages of expanded polystyrene:

• strength;
• good permeability;
• high density.

If you need inexpensive material, then it is more profitable to use foam.

How to insulate walls with foam from the outside
If the walls of the house are not able to retain heat, then no ultra-modern heating systems will be able to warm it up. At a low temperature in the room, the humidity rises sharply and fungus and mold quickly develop, affecting not only things and furniture, but also the building itself. Experts say that up to 30% of heat is lost through the walls, so you should take care of their insulation in a timely manner.

Features of working with foam
Styrofoam is one of the most popular and inexpensive materials. It is an excellent heat insulator, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and is easily cut with simple tools. However, this material loses its properties very quickly under the influence of ultraviolet light, so foam-lined walls are never left open.

Another significant disadvantage of foam is flammability. That is why it is used most often in the so-called wet facade systems when the foam layer is covered with a layer of plaster fixed on reinforcing mesh. This technology has gained great popularity due to the ease of finishing and low cost.

Important! Any tree is capable of absorbing and evaporating moisture; "breathe". The foam, on the other hand, has a low vapor permeability, therefore, for sheathing wooden house does not apply. In this case, it is better to use glass or basalt wool.

Finishing the house with foam plastic with further plastering (wet facade system)

Wet facade system with a decorative layer of plaster

Expendable materials

Wall preparation

To detect exfoliated sections of the wall, you should tap. Loose plaster, layers of soot and mold are removed with a wire brush. You can also use a special nozzle on the grinder. In order for the foam to lay flat, too protruding parts of the wall are knocked off. Grease stains are treated with a solvent. On painted oil paint walls to improve adhesion, it is better to make small notches with an ax.

Wall priming

Wall primer

Adhesive selection

Important! You should carefully study the instructions for use: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant.

For work with foam, you can take any facade adhesives, silicone sealants or liquid nails. For tile joints use mounting foam. The composition for fixing the foam must not contain organic solvents (acetone, gasoline, ethers, etc.).

The most suitable adhesive is special composition for gluing foam. There are several varieties of it:
1. Universal for foam, which is suitable for both bonding and reinforcement.
2. Adhesive for gluing. It has high plasticity and stickiness, when using it, foam sheets do not slip during the drying process.
3. Styrofoam Reinforcement Adhesive: High strength but less ductility.

Gluing foam

Wall marking

If irregularities are found that do not allow the twine with the load to lie flat, they must be knocked down. On the "failures" of the wall, glue or building foam can be applied. Cross (horizontal) markings can be applied using a hydraulic level and twine.

Aligning the wall with beacons

Setting the start profile

The size of the profile is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Fastening is carried out with 6 mm dowels with washers with an interval of 30-40 cm. The corners of the profile are joined by the method of oblique cuts or using a corner connector.

Starter profile fixing

Glue application methods

Foam insulation

All work should be carried out in the spring, about a week after the heating is turned off in the houses. It is possible to glue foam plastic in the fall, when the ambient temperature drops to + 17-18 ° С. You should not start work in warm windy weather, as the glue will set too quickly.

It is not recommended to use too fragile foam in work: it is better to choose a material with a density of 20 kg / m3. The thermal insulation of denser sheets is less, so it is better not to use them for insulation of external walls.

Finishing order

You can start sticking foam plastic one day after applying the primer. Plates are laid with the long side of the sheet down, starting from the bottom corner. The second row should go with an offset, as when laying bricks (see photo). To do this, the first sheets of odd rows adjacent to the corners are cut in half. The most convenient plates in the work are 0.5 × 1 m in size and 5 cm thick.

The gaps between the sheets are sealed with foam. Too large gaps can be sealed with foam scraps.

Styrofoam gluing scheme

Additional foam fixation

Styrofoam dowels

To install the dowels in the wall pasted over with foam, holes of the appropriate depth are made into which the dowels are inserted. They should enter the foam by 1.5-2 mm.

Dowel holes

The "umbrellas" are fastened with an envelope: at the corners of the sheet and in the center. Thus, to secure each sheet, you will need 5 dowels. Dowels must be included in concrete base to a depth of 50 mm, in brick wall by 90 mm. For example, with a foam plastic width of 8 cm, "umbrellas" measuring 13-17 cm are used. After inserting them, they are additionally knocked out with a rubber hammer so that each of them is recessed into the foam plastic by a couple of millimeters.

Creating a decorative protective layer

Styrofoam grout

Important! Do not leave foam-insulated walls unfinished for a long time. Even after 2 weeks, ultraviolet rays are already able to damage its top layer. If this nevertheless happened, the damaged surface is removed with a grater, and only then the wall is lined with a mesh.

Reinforced corner and corner spatula

Reinforcement of walls insulated with foam plastic is carried out using a mesh with cells of 3-5 mm. The mesh is cut into strips of the desired width. A special adhesive for reinforcement is applied to the wall so that the mesh sinks into it. Its edges are fixed last. After fixing the mesh on the wall with a spatula, it is leveled and excess glue is removed. Too much of it can lead to cracking.

Reinforced mesh overlay

The second layer of glue is applied only after the first has dried. After 3 days, the reinforced layer is primed, plastered, and then a layer of facade paint is applied to the wall.

A lot depends on how well the house is insulated: the microclimate and air temperature in winter and summer in the premises, saving money during the heating period. That is why close attention is paid to wall insulation during the construction and restoration of the building.

Insulate walls inside and out different materials: mineral wool, isolon, glass wool, polystyrene. The last option is the most profitable and technically accessible.

Since polystyrene is a fairly thick material, it is best to insulate the outer walls of the house with it. At internal insulation usable space is wasted.

External insulation of the walls of the house can be divided into several stages.

Materials and tools

Beacons for marking.

Chopping cords.

Glue for fixing foam.

Comb for applying glue.

Dowels with large umbrella hats.

Reinforcing mesh.

Glue for mounting the grid.

Primer for walls.

Foam for sealing wide gaps.

Sandpaper.

Perforator with a set of long drills.

Primer roller.

Special foam trowel for grouting irregularities.

Spatula for applying glue.

Level and roulette.

Basic set of locksmith tools.

The walls on which the insulation will be attached must be carefully prepared. All cracks and voids need to be repaired, damaged sections of the wall are best restored. If there are large differences - more than 5 cm, it is advisable to level the plane of the wall, otherwise it will be difficult to fix the insulation material with high quality.

It is not advisable to start work on a rainy day or mount the material on wet walls. If the house is overhauled, it is recommended to install the insulation after replacing windows and doors.

It is recommended that clean walls be carefully primed before fixing the foam. The deep impregnation liquid can be applied with a roller or spray gun. The primer will protect the wall from corrosion and moisture, improve the adhesion of the adhesive solution to the foam.

Before fixing the material on the wall, it is advisable to set up beacons. Chopping cords are stretched between the beacons. This will allow you to fix the foam with minimal deviations.

Installation of foam on the walls

After pre-treatment of the walls and the installation of beacons, you can proceed with the installation of foam.

Step 1. Glue dilution. The dry mixture must be diluted with water. The consistency of the glue should be creamy, without lumps and other impurities. It is best to dilute the glue in portions.

Step 2 In order for the first row of foam to be even, it is recommended to start attaching the insulation to the metal profile. Using a tape measure and a level, you need to mark the line along which the first row of insulation will be attached. Then, along this line, a metal profile is required to be drilled to the wall. It additionally contributes to a better fixation of the insulation to the wall.

Step 3. Glue is evenly applied to the surface of the foam using a comb. If the wall surface is not too smooth, then more adhesive can be applied to the insulation so that the adhesion is maximum.

Step 4. The first row of foam is laid out. It is recommended to glue the material on the wall from the bottom up. It is also recommended to apply glue between the insulation plates so that there are no gaps.

Step 5. The second row of foam is glued with an offset relative to the first row. This will provide better bonding of the material and minimize the gaps between the plates. Do not forget about applying glue to the joining ends of the plates for better sealing. If there are too large gaps between the foam plates, mounting foam can be used to seal them.

Step 6. At the corners of the house, the foam must be fastened with such an allowance as to completely cover the protruding areas.

Step 7. Before installing the next row, do not forget about placing beacons.

Step 8. Thus, all rows of insulation are glued.

Additional foam fixation

After the walls of the house are already insulated, it is recommended to further strengthen the fixation of the material. For these purposes, a puncher and special fastening fittings are used - anchors with wide plastic caps, into which a metal pin is driven.

When choosing the dimensions of the fittings, you need to know that for high-quality fixation, it is recommended to recess the anchor into the wall by 40 mm. If the thickness of the foam is 40 mm, the thickness of the adhesive layer is 10 mm, the length of the anchor should be 90 mm.

Step 1. It is advisable to fix the foam sheet with 4-5 anchors. For these purposes, holes are drilled in the insulation and the wall. The length and width of the drill should be equal to the dimensions of the mounting hardware.

Step 2. After drilling, insert into the holes plastic fittings. Anchor caps should be slightly sunk into the foam in order to further hide them with a layer of plaster.

Step 3. Metal studs are inserted inside the plastic anchors and hammered with force until they stop.

Step 4. In this way, all sheets of foam glued to the walls are fixed.

After the wall insulation is completed, you can start finishing and ennobling the facades of the house.

Step 1 Using a styrofoam grater, you need to align all the bumps at the junctions of the foam sheets. The grater removes the excess layer of glue.

Step 2. Walls insulated with foam must be coated with a primer.

Step 3. After the primer dries, you can start applying putty. Putty must be evenly distributed over the surface of the foam. The optimal layer is 2-3 mm.

Step 4 While the putty has not dried, a reinforcing mesh is attached on top of the layer. The material must be embedded in the solution with a spatula. It is advisable to reinforce small sections of the wall - 1-2 meters. The mesh connection is carried out with an overlap. When working with a spatula, you need to carefully smooth out all the bumps. Ideally, the mesh should be hidden under a layer of putty.

Step 5 After the reinforcement of the walls has been carried out, you need to wait until the solution is completely dry. Then the wall is treated with large sandpaper. The abrasive cleans off all the bumps, drops and sags on the surface of the wall.

Step 6. The wall cleaned of defects is once again treated with a primer.

Step 7 Using a wide spatula, a leveling mixture is applied to the wall. With its help, you can achieve the perfect smoothness of the surface.

Step 8. Finishing the facades. For these purposes, it is used various materials: dye, decorative plaster. You can also ennoble the facade of the house with mosaics, natural or decorative stone, facing brick. If you plan to use these materials, you can not use leveling compounds.

If all the required materials and tools are available, it is not difficult to insulate the house with foam plastic on your own. The main thing is to wait for good weather and observe safety precautions when working at height.

Video - How to properly insulate a house with foam

home » Mounting » How to make wall insulation with polystyrene foam from the outside with your own hands (with video). Do-it-yourself wall insulation with polystyrene foam - detailed instructions