When and how to caulk a log house. Log cabin caulking technology - which is better with your own hands or order, price analysis

To get rid of the gaps between the crowns and close the cracks formed during the shrinkage of the log house, caulking is carried out: this is the only way heat will be retained inside the log house. For work, you can use various materials, but the technology is the same. How to properly caulk a log house? What is better to use for this?

What is the best way to caulk a log house? The work can be done using both natural and artificial materials. The latter are much more convenient to use, and the process takes very little time, but they have several significant drawbacks.

natural

These include moss, tow, jute, lnovatin, hemp and others.

Moss

Caulking a log house with moss has been performed for a long time, and even with the advent of modern materials he was not abandoned. This is explained by his unique properties: it not only retains heat well, tolerates sudden temperature changes, removes excess moisture without rotting, but also has antimicrobial and even healing properties.

Tow

Technology using tow is considered one of the most difficult. In the process of drying the log house, the material will become damp, which will begin to rot over time. Therefore, after drying at home or a bath, the old tow is cleaned, and then the caulking of the log house is performed again.

Jute

Moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly and durable material that retains heat well. Due to its ability to absorb moisture, it has a rather short service life (about 3 years). Worn-out jute is not easy to remove from the gaps between the crowns, so it is rarely used.

There are several types of material:

Jute tow. In the production of this type of insulation, the fibers are combed to give them the desired direction. The tow obtained in this way retains all the properties of jute, however, the finished material is not very convenient for work: it is rigid, and at the same time not too dense. The process of caulking when using the material becomes more complicated - it is necessary to carry out work in several stages (during the initial laying, the desired degree of density cannot be achieved).
Linen jute. Mixed material consisting of an equal amount of linen and jute fibers. It is popular among builders, but needs protection from insects: before use, it is treated with moth and rotting agents.
Jute felt. Composed of 90% jute and the remaining 10% flax fiber, the material has the right density for the job, but at the same time retains flexibility. The ease of use of felt makes it the best choice. When buying a material, you should choose one whose fibers are longer than 2 cm - it is more elastic and flexible. The only drawback is that moths can damage it, so the felt is treated with a special protective impregnation before laying.

Lnovatin

Insect repellent material is processed chemicals Therefore, it cannot be called environmentally friendly. The service life of the insulation is up to 3 years, it is attached to the log house with the help of a construction stapler.

Synthetic

Application finished formulations- sealants - will cost significantly more than if you caulk a log house with tow. However, they are much easier to work with. Usually, in order to reduce the consumption of a synthetic agent, it is used together with a natural one (for example, a cord). First, the cord is closed in the gap, and a sealant is applied on top, leveling the layer with a scalpel blade.

Among the disadvantages of sealants:

A number of synthetic agents are destroyed by sun rays- over time, it begins to crumble and falls out. To protect the substance from deterioration, strips are installed on the seams that protect the sealant from ultraviolet radiation.
After drying, some compounds harden into a dense solid mass, due to which the wood that contracts and expands depending on humidity and air temperature begins to collapse. It is recommended to use only elastic sealants.

Methods for caulking the walls of a house or bath

Caulking and insulation of the log house can be done in two ways:

In a set. Suitable for wide gaps. For work, they take jute, tow or hemp. The selected material is divided into strands, wound into a ball.
In stretch. Wherein thermal insulation material divided into tapes, hammer it into the slots.

General rules

Primary caulking of a house from a bar is carried out approximately 6 months after assembly. During this period, most of the moisture contained in the beam will disappear, cracks will appear on the tree, and cracks will appear in the structure itself.

The next time the work will need to be carried out another year later. At this point, the building will finally sit down, and it will be necessary to eliminate the cracks and crevices that have arisen over the past months.

If everything is done correctly, the third time will be needed only after 5 years. However, if the technologies are not followed, the need to eliminate gaps may occur annually. In order for the caulking of a house from a bar to be done correctly, it is worth watching a video with the advice of experienced craftsmen.

Work starts from the bottom. The lower crown is sequentially caulked around the entire perimeter from the outside, after that - inside the log house. After that, they move on to the next, acting in the same way.
Usually the largest gaps are formed at the corners, so caulking should be especially careful in these places.
First, the material is fixed in a slot in a section of about 1 m, then the hanging parts are folded in and tucked in. Using a mallet, the insulation is tightly hammered into the slot until the material begins to spring. When everything is done, move on to the next section.

Caulker with moss

For work you will need:

pre-dried moss;
water;
soap;
vegetable oil.

Work order:

200 g of soap and 0.5 l of oil are added to a bucket of water. Mix thoroughly.
Dry moss is placed in the prepared liquid. Wet fibers will become elastic.
They take a strand of material, twist it into a roller, insert it into the slot. Well tamped.
Using a spatula and a mallet, the insulation is tightly hammered into the gap.

For the primary caulking of a log house from a bar with the help of moss, it is recommended to use the “stretching” method, all subsequent ones - the “set-up” method.

The use of tow

In the insulation of this type, insects can start over time, and in order to protect it, the tow should be treated with a disinfectant.

Need to prepare:

tow;
formalin (it will act as an antiseptic);
water.

Caulking a house from profiled timber using tow takes place in 4 stages:

Formalin is diluted with water to obtain a disinfectant solution.
All prepared tow is placed in it and left for half an hour.
After removing and squeezing the material, they drive in the tow divided into ribbons using the “stretching” method. The insulation is rammed with a spatula and a mallet to achieve maximum packing density.

Caulking jute

This material is laid using the “set-up” method.

Depending on which type of material is selected, you will need:

jute itself;
bitumen or resin (for felt jute);
formalin (for jute tow).

Work order:

Tow is soaked in formalin solution.
The material is folded into strands, the slots of the lower crown are filled with it.
Using the tool, push the hanging edges.
Using a groove, align the position of the insulation layer.

Important! When processing the area around the chimney pipe, about 3 cm of the surface must be left untouched.

Caulking with sealant

caulk log house using sealant is the fastest. To work, you will need the synthetic material itself, a cord for filling the gaps, a special spatula for leveling the seams (you can take a narrow spatula), and a mounting gun.

Caulker wooden house- an important step in the insulation of the finished building using natural or synthetic heat insulators. Here, every detail matters: the right working tool, high-quality insulation material, work performance technology. Not all homeowners are aware of how to correctly seal interventional gaps and joints in order to reduce possible heat loss, avoid distortion of the house structure, and prevent rotting of wood and heat insulator.

What is the caulking of the log house for?

Thermal insulation of a log house contributes to the preservation of heat in the premises, prevents the deformation of wood and a decrease in its operational parameters. Modern heaters are durable, practical and safe, therefore they provide high-quality caulking of wooden buildings.

Caulker felling solves the following tasks:

eliminates cold bridges and reduces heat loss at home;
corrects structural defects in the structure;
eliminates various flaws in external and internal corners, crowns, door and window openings;
makes the house more attractive and reliable;
increases the life of wood.

When is the caulking

The caulking of a wooden house is carried out in several stages, and this is due to the gradual shrinkage of the wood. Maximum shrinkage takes place during the first 18 months after the completion of construction work and stops after 5 years.

The first stage of caulking is performed after the assembly of the log structure. In this case, when building a house, thermal insulation material fills the space between the logs so that the edges hang freely on both sides. After installation roof structure the insulation is hammered into the connecting seams between the crowns.
The second stage of insulation is carried out 1.5 years after the completion of construction work and preliminary shrinkage of the house. The insulating material is laid tightly enough to hide all the gaps and cracks.
The third stage of caulking is carried out after 5 years, when the shrinkage process of the log house is considered to be fully completed. All existing defects between the logs are filled with insulation.

Important! For a log house, all three caulking is carried out, and for a house made of timber, which will be lined with siding on the outside, the third stage of caulking is optional.

Materials for caulking

For caulking timber or logs, it is better to use natural heaters with the following characteristics:

hygroscopicity,
resistance to temperature changes,
breathability,
environmental Safety,
ease of installation.

These heaters include:

moss (red and white),
tow,
lnovatin,
jute.

Moss

The safest and practical material with excellent antiseptic properties. It provides reliable protection of wood from rotting and biological damage.

Moss (sphagnum) is a reliable material for sealing interventional joints: it passes air well and quickly absorbs excess moisture, prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms and fungi, and as a result increases the service life of wood.

Moss is resistant to fire and decay, therefore it is able to maintain its performance characteristics long time. High cost is the only drawback of such material.

Self-procurement of raw materials will significantly reduce the cost of thermal insulation of a house made of logs or timber.

Before caulking the walls, the pre-treated moss must have a suitable moisture level - not excessively dry or wet.

Tow

A practical and safe material that is used for caulking crowns after complete shrinkage of the log house. It is made from hemp, jute and linen fibers.

Sold in pressed bales or rolls. Tow in bales has short and stiff fibers, which complicate the process of driving interventional seams. High quality tape tow has long, elastic and soft fibers.

This material has low antiseptic properties, is susceptible to high moisture, and therefore requires additional treatment with protective impregnations or paints.

The main disadvantages of insulation include the complexity of installation, unattractive appearance processed seams, short service life.

Lnovatin

Natural material for caulking wooden houses, which is produced by pressing short flax fiber into ribbons. Lnovatin has high heat-insulating and moisture resistant characteristics. Such insulation is able to provide reliable protection of wood from rotting and mold damage.

Lnovatin is used for sealing seams between crowns with fixation on metal staples.

Jute

The most high-quality and durable tape insulation for caulking houses made of logs or timber. The material has high heat-saving properties, is not susceptible to rotting and mold damage. Even with prolonged exposure to moisture, jute fiber remains almost dry.

Jute is used for primary and secondary thermal insulation of the house. It has high strength, wear resistance, elasticity and practicality. It fits into interventional seams with fixation on staples.

The only drawback of the material is its high cost.

Caulking tools

If natural materials are used for thermal insulation of a wooden house, then before caulking, prepare:

Kiyanku. A small wooden or rubber mallet for laying insulation with wooden caulks.
A dial-up caulk. Spatula with metal or wooden base, blade width 10 cm, thickness 0.5 cm. This is the main tool for caulking log crowns.
Crooked caulk. Curved chisel with a flat blade 5 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick. Used to fill fillet joints and gaps in rounded sections of a building with insulation.
Road builder. Triangular blade with a special longitudinal groove. Blade width - 17 cm, thickness - from 0.8 to 1.5 cm. The tool is designed to fill gaps of equal width.
Breaker caulk. A narrowed wedge-shaped blade up to 3.5 cm wide, which allows you to widen the intervention gaps for the convenience of laying heat-insulating material.

Important! All caulk blades should be slightly dull and smooth to avoid damaging the wood and pulling the insulation out of the seams. Before starting work, the tools are thoroughly cleaned with a clean cloth.

Logging caulking technology

The process of caulking a house from a log house is carried out in stages. There are two caulking methods:

in stretching
into a set.

It doesn’t matter what method the caulking is carried out at home, all insulation work begins with the lower crown. Next, we will consider how to competently caulk a wooden structure.

Stretching

Stretched caulk provides for the insulation of the seams between the logs with pre-stretched heaters. For this, fibrous and rolled materials are used.

Fibrous insulation

Work is carried out from the ends of the lower crown. A small part of the insulation (for example, tow or moss) is applied with transverse fibers to the seam and clogged inward with a type-setting caulk.
At the edges, the insulation is rolled up with a small roller and compacted into an interventional seam.
Next, a new portion of insulation is used, which is formed into a roller, and the entire caulking procedure is repeated. This allows you to qualitatively seal the seam along its entire length.

Roll insulation

Dense rollers from roll insulation are much easier to get. For even distribution, the material is gently stretched along the entire length of the seam and applied to it across the fibers.

The tape is unwound on a flat surface from one of the corners to the opposite corner.
Having picked up the free edge, with the help of a caulk, the insulation is placed in the interventional seam so that the free edges hang down by 5 cm. This fills the entire length of the seam.
After the seam is completely filled, the tape is cut off from the roll.
The rest of the insulation is driven into large gaps between the logs. The insulated seam must have the same thickness and protrude 3 mm beyond the edges of the grooves.

To the set

Caulking in the set allows you to insulate wide and deep gaps between logs. It uses a larger volume of material, respectively, and the quality of thermal insulation is higher. Tow, hemp rope or jute cord is suitable for this.

To caulk a log house with jute (the easiest option for beginners), a small amount of material is unwound and folded into loops. Next, each loop fits into the seam with a caulk.
Stitching begins at the top of the seam and then continues at the bottom.
On top of the laid insulation, an additional strand is applied for better insulation. The material is leveled along the entire length of the seam with the help of a road builder.

If desired, the insulation of the house in this way can be accelerated. In this case, the driving of the heat-insulating material is carried out using a perforator. The tool is used at low speed to prevent deformation of the seam. Also, a pneumatic hammer with a compressor is suitable for laying insulation.

Caulker corners

The corners in the log house are insulated after the completion of the main work.

To do this, it is better to use a roll insulation and a crooked caulk. The process is carried out as follows:

The free edge of the tape insulation is applied to the seam located in the corner and clogged with a crooked caulk.
After installing the material, its free edges are rolled up and hammered into the seam.
All work on laying insulation is carried out from top to bottom. For uniform driving, the material is gently stretched and straightened.

decorative caulking

If the main task of caulking is the thermal insulation of a wooden structure, then decorative caulking is used to decorate insulated interventional seams.

To give the seams of the log house an attractive and harmonious appearance, experts recommend using a rope and a rope made of jute or flax as a finish.

The rope is carefully fixed to the surface of the seam on galvanized nails without hats, driven into logs at a distance of 18 cm from each other. Decorative caulking is also suitable for hiding unevenly dried joints between the crowns and for additional insulation of the structure.

After completion of the caulking process wooden house should be used as much as possible throughout the year. In winter, a check is made for the formation of new cracks and deformation of the laid insulation.

A year and a half after the first stage of caulking, the second stage is carried out. In this case, a thorough inspection of the structure is carried out, heat-insulating material is added where it has deformed or fallen out, as well as where new gaps or distortions of the log house have appeared.

Caulking a wooden house is an important and responsible event that requires a competent approach and compliance with all stages. technological process. The quality of the work performed depends on the internal microclimate in the premises and the duration of the operation of the house.

Caulking of a log house is the filling of gaps between the logs of the crowns and in the cuts of the corners during the construction of the building and after its complete shrinkage. Competent performance of such work allows you to avoid deformation of the walls of the house, insulate it and protect the living space from external negative influences(wind, precipitation, low temperatures, etc.).

Caulking at home can be performed using various materials and working tools. However, such work should only be carried out by experienced professionals. Qualified craftsmen will be able not only to caulk a log house at the most affordable price for everyone, but also to ensure the maximum quality of this work.

When is the caulking of the log house carried out?

Timber caulking is a mandatory process before any finishing work. The work is carried out in two stages. At first, filling the grooves between the logs is required to be carried out directly during the assembly of the walls. Next, caulking at home should be done after the log house has completely shrunk. As a rule, it takes from one to two years for the walls to fully shrink. The price of a log cabin caulk depends on:

the height of the walls and the area of \u200b\u200bthe house;
material used to seal the gaps between the frame;
the quality of the wood from which the walls are built.

If you want to caulk a log house, the price of which is quite affordable by the standards of the modern construction market, it is best to trust real professionals who are able to perform work of any complexity at the highest level.

Materials for caulking a log house

Log cabin caulking, the price of which is determined by the craftsmen immediately after inspecting the scope of work, must be carried out from the outside and inside of the walls. This approach to work will provide maximum moisture and wind protection of residential premises. Various materials can be used for caulking timber. So, the most in demand is tape and interventional linen, jute sealant. With its use, you can easily caulk houses of any size.

Caulking, the price of which also depends on the quality of the sealant and the ease of working with it, can significantly increase the service life of the building and the quality of life in it. If you want to caulk a house, it is best to turn to professionals. Experienced craftsmen will be able to perform rather monotonous and time-consuming work with the highest quality. The price of a caulk in this case will be your investment in the durability of a wooden house.

Wooden log cabins are characterized by plasticity, a tendency to multiple changes in configuration and volume during the period of shrinkage and operation. The state of the log house is also affected by weather conditions, features of operation, the time of construction of the building and features of wood protection. In this regard, the standards provide for primary, as well as repeated caulking.

Features and causes

Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in a log house or log house. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. It is carried out by filling the gaps with special seals.

You can caulk after all construction (including roofing) work is completed, or during the assembly of walls.

Caulker allows you to solve a number of the following tasks:

warming the room and (as a result) reducing the cost of heating the building from the inside;
elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
prevention of condensation on the walls as a result of the difference between the temperatures outside and inside the building;
protection of wood from decay.

The first caulk is carried out immediately after completion roofing works, the second - after the primary shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, re-caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that the wood shrinks completely.

It is necessary to carry out work in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more laborious, besides, the tree almost does not shrink during this period.

Houses and baths must be insulated on both sides, outbuildings can only be sealed from the outside.

materials

All materials for interventional insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.

natural

There are different natural materials, and all of them have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Tow

It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that the tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.

The basis of the material is linen fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be bale or roll. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which complicates styling. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, so it is easier to work with it. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to lay it in the slots, to replace the damaged area. After warming, the seam needs to be decorated, because it looks unaesthetic. Various microorganisms, moths can start in the tow.

Moss

It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which pull out insulation for their nests.

Usually red or white moss is used. When self-collecting, it is better to perform such work in late autumn, immediately sorting through the raw materials after collection (you need to remove the earth, litter, insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.

Felt

This material is made on the basis of sheep wool; for a long time it was considered one of the best mezhventsovy heaters. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, sound insulation qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to keep moisture out. Long elastic fibers are easy to lay even in small gaps.

Among the shortcomings - exposure to moths, rotting. The addition of synthetic components to the felt makes it possible to level these shortcomings, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.

Lnovatin

Material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level rises, it absorbs excess moisture, and when it falls, it gives it away. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from decay.

Due to the composition of the material is absolutely safe.

Jute

The material is made on the basis of wood fibers exotic tree- jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water, and also provides antibacterial protection not only to the interventional gaps, but also to adjacent logs. However, the high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes rigid, dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with linen.

artificial

Among the materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:

Heaters based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in the form of ribbons. Among the most well-known manufacturers we can distinguish "PolyTerm" (Finland) and "Avaterm" (Russia).

PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, a feature of which is the ability to contract and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of wood.

Sealants. Sealants based on silicone, polyurethane or acrylic are also used when caulking a log house, but they are not independent seals. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in the logs, as well as to apply over artificial seals. hallmark is the ability of sealants to expand and contract in response to the expansion or contraction of wood.

Requirements

The main requirement for insulation for interventional seams is a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since there are no other waterproofing and vapor-permeable layers for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with the environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their abrupt change, as well as to UV rays.

If we are talking about warming the inside of the log house, then you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic, not emit hazardous compounds under the influence of high temperatures.

The bioresistance of the material is also important quality related to its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, does not become a home and food for rodents and microorganisms.

Given the complexity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The heat efficiency of the sealant should be maintained for 15-20 years.

There are several options for insulation, as already mentioned. If we talk about the methods of laying the sealant, then it can be laid in the process of erecting a log house or at the end of construction work.

At internal insulation thermal insulation of interventional gaps can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the interventional seams, a wooden crate is stuffed onto the surface of the log house, the step of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Then, between the lags of the frame, a heater is attached, on top of it - sheets of drywall. An air gap of 30-50 mm is maintained between the insulation and the finish. Drywall sheets are plastered and decorated.

Before attaching the crate, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are done in relation to the surfaces of the lags.

Choice

The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic features. It is believed that a new, properly built log house needs only interventional insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disturb the microclimate in the room and hide the aesthetic log walls. The baths do not need insulation from the inside either, since an additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.

Primary caulking, sealing of small cracks are carried out by "stretching", while re-insulation or elimination of wide cracks - by the "set-up" method.

Instruments

To carry out the procedure for warming interventional seams, the following materials and tools will be required:

caulking- a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
caulk- is a thick narrow wedge for expanding excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled easier and with better quality;
flat chisel, having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - serves for laying a sealant in the corners, rounded parts of the log house;

mallet- is a hammer made of wood, serves to clog the seal;
road builder- a kind of caulking for the formation of even rollers from a twisted heat insulator;
a hammer- they hit the mallet, driving the sealant into the interventional space;
insulation.

The power tool, the puncher loses to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roller from the material, but only drive it into the slot.

Methods and technology

There are two technologies for the caulking process:

"Stretch". It is usually used for primary sealing of seams and involves maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the log house. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it - a twisted second strand. The fibers of the insulation are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are folded into a flat roller, which is hammered into the seam.

"Vnabor". The method is used for re-caulking when the house has shrunk. This method involves driving a small amount of insulation, the strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, with the help of a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the slot, and the insulation fibers take a position perpendicular to the wood.

The process ends with a final seal. For this, a special tool is used - a road builder.

If you decide to caulk a house or a bath with your own hands, you should focus on the instructions. The step by step process looks like this:

Cleaning the interventional gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
Insulation preparation: roll material should be dissolved over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary, because in some areas the material can lie in a wave, and it should be enough for one tier.
One of the ends of the insulation tape is driven into the slot with a mallet.
Then the material is hammered into the slot with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is tight, there are no distortions.
If a synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.

When the insulation is laid during the assembly of logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the overhanging ends of the material on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, on top of it - a heater. So the work is carried out until the very last log cabin. When all work is completed, and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps with the help of a caulk. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends to the center of the crown.

When laying insulation (primarily for moss), it is important to ensure that it evenly lays down on the surface of the logs. Their translucence through the insulation is unacceptable, otherwise the chopped house will turn out to be cold. If tape insulation is used, then it is rolled out along the crown and fixed with brackets. If the tape is over, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.

In order to get a perfectly warm frame for permanent residence, it is not enough to properly mount it. It is also necessary to fill all the gaps between the logs with high quality, so that heat losses overcome the house as little as possible. Not everyone knows how to properly caulk a log house, and therefore the performance of insulation work sometimes leads to a warp of the house (in the worst case) or simply to rotting of wood and insulation (in the best case).

About how to properly caulk log cabins from moss video and general recommendations for other types of insulation in our material below.

Materials for caulking a log house

You can caulk a wooden frame various materials. Fortunately, the construction market today offers a wide selection of them from natural to synthetic and semi-synthetic. The most popular are the following types:

building moss. May be called "sphagnum" or "cuckoo flax". This type of insulation was used by architects back in ancient Russia. The qualities of moss as a heater are priceless and undeniable. Sphagnum is highly resistant to moisture. It seems to shrink with the tree in case of waterlogging of the latter and simply takes all the moisture into itself. In addition, moss is of no interest to birds, moths and other insects. And this means that all the material for the caulking will remain in the place that the master determines for him. Moss "sphagnum" and "cuckoo flax" does not burn, does not rot and is an excellent natural antiseptic for wood for many years.

Important: you can buy building moss in any volume at specialized points of sale.

Construction tow. This type of material also works well in tandem with wood when caulking walls. Produce tow from the remnants of flax and hemp grass. Tow is also natural material which protects the tree from moisture and cold.
jute fiber in the form of a tape - advanced natural-type materials for caulking walls. Jute is made from a shrub that belongs to the linden family. And linden, as you know, copes well with cold and moisture. Jute is able to somewhat moisten the log when it dries out excessively, but it does not take moisture from the tree when the humidity in the house is 80%. It is convenient to lay a jute tape between the crowns, and also stuff it into the cracks when re-insulating the house.
Lnovatin. They produce insulation from flax fiber in the form of a wide tape. By their own technical specifications lnovatin is similar to jute. It is convenient in laying between the crowns and when caulking "in a stretch".
Felt. Unsuccessful type of insulation for a wooden house. Felt is prone to rotting between logs, and if excessive moisture gets on the walls, the felt will not only lose its insulating qualities, but also spoil the tree from the inside.

Tool to get the job done

To properly caulk a log house, you need to use special tools. Otherwise, the insulation will lie superficially in the cracks, which will lead to the formation of cold bridges. Most professionals use special caulks made of steel or metal. The first one is better. You can also make wooden caulks from dense woods - beech, walnut, oak. At the same time, it is desirable that the tool has a rubberized handle for ease of work.

Important: the caulking tool should not have a sharp blade, otherwise the insulation may be damaged during caulking. For the same reason, you should avoid notches on the surface of the tool. The insulation in this case clings to the teeth and breaks.

The main type of tools for caulking:

Stacked caulk. It is a flat kind of chisel with a blade width of 10x0.6 cm. It is used for stuffing seams between logs with insulation.
Crooked caulk. The same chisel, but curved. It is used for caulking the corners of the house and rounded cracks. The width of the blade in this case is half that of a type-setting caulk.
Caulker "Roader". It has a fork-shaped shape and is used for caulking cracks using the “stretching” method. The blade here has parameters of 170x15 mm. Depending on the width of the gap, you can use a wide, medium or narrow caulk.
The caulk is broken. It has a wedge-shaped blade 30-35 mm wide. Such a tool is used to expand narrow gaps and fill them with insulation.
A mallet is used to help all types of tools. With the help of such a rubber hammer, the seal is pushed into the slots.

Work performance technology

In order for a log house to be insulated with high quality, the insulation must be laid in several stages. First, roll insulation or building moss is laid out between the crowns in such a way that it protrudes 5-6 cm beyond the edges of the log. In this case, a tape insulation such as jute or flax fiber is fixed to the tree with a construction stapler. By the way, you can do the same with moss.

After the house settles and sits down, new cracks form. It is through them that heat loss will occur. In addition, the heat leaving the house, in contact with wood and low temperatures outside, will form perspiration (moisture). That, in turn, is transformed into frost, which will destroy the log. That is why additional caulking of new slots and packing of a peeking seal between the crowns is required.

The third caulk can be done after 2-3 years, when the house is completely seated and all possible cracks will be open to the master.

Caulking methods

Warming "stretching"

This method involves filling narrow cracks and gaps. It is good for caulking houses from rounded logs, since the gaps here are minimal. At the same time, you should be careful with the caulk of such a log house. There is a risk of overfilling the slots, which will lead to distortion of the crowns, and, accordingly, the walls.

So, stretching insulation is performed in this way:

As soon as the edge of the insulation 5 cm long remains, a new bundle of insulation is taken and its edge is woven with the remaining end.
The resulting plexus is hammered into the slot and in this way they continue to caulk all the gaps.

Important: the quality of the caulk can be checked by pulling on the remaining end of the insulation. If the material comes out freely from the gap, the job has not been done correctly. If the insulation remains in the gap, then everything is done soundly.

Caulker "in a set"

This method is used to fill large gaps. Here it is necessary to wind the insulation into a skein. Then, loops are made from the resulting fiber and the slots are stuffed with them. Moreover, first they caulk the upper part of the gap using a stuffing tool, and then hammer the loops into the lower part of the gap using the “road builder” tool. It is worth knowing that the thickness of the insulation loop must correspond to the thickness of the existing gap in the log house.

Important: when working with a mallet, it is worth remembering that there should be one hammer blow per blade width. Do not be too zealous, otherwise there is a risk of overfilling the cracks, which will lead to a warp of the house.

There is also a number general requirements, which should be observed when caulking a log house. By following them, it will be possible to avoid gross errors in the work:

So, you need to start re-caulking at home from the lower rims, because when you stuff the insulation in the crack, the house will rise by 5-15 cm.
It is necessary to fill the gaps alternately from the outside and from the inside of the house. That is, first they fill the slot of the lower crown from the outside, and then they go inside the log house and fill the gaps of the same crown from the inside. This technology will help maintain the evenness of the walls of the house.
It is best to use natural heaters for caulking. Synthetics blocks the breath of the tree.
If moss is used for caulking, then it should be processed special solution from soap and oil in a ratio of 200:500, mixed with a bucket of water.
Warming of the house must be carried out in dry weather at a temperature of + 10- + 20 degrees Celsius.
In addition, a lack of insulation is just as bad as its bust. It is necessary to strictly monitor the amount of fiber in the loops so that their width matches the width of the gaps.

Remember, properly done work is a guarantee of warm and cozy home even in severe frosts.

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