Roof with your own hands. How to independently make the right roof in a private house Attaching rafters to the Mauerlat
Arrangement of the roof is one of the final stages of the construction of any building. Roof installation is a responsible task, the quality of which determines the characteristics of the future home, including the safety of its inhabitants. Therefore, this stage requires close attention. But this does not mean that in order to build a roof, you will have to call professionals. With the right approach, everything necessary work can be done on your own. And our article will tell you in detail how to make a roof with your own hands, drawings and photos will help you understand the nuances of the arrangement process and achieve an excellent result without any extra investment.
To the arrangement of the roof proceed after all other basic work is completed. That is, your future home already has a solid foundation and strong walls. We can say that the roof is the most expensive element of the structure, as well as requiring painstaking work. In order to perform a high-quality installation of the roof, you must at least know what types of roofing are used today and what are their features.
A building without a roof is not a building. Because the presence of a roof provides protection from cold and precipitation, retains heat, makes the building beautiful and livable. Just as a house cannot stand without one wall or without a foundation, so it cannot become a full-fledged dwelling without a good, reliable roof. That's why independent construction should be a thoughtful and balanced step so that it does not turn into a waste of time and effort. Think about what is needed to achieve your goal, analyze all the stages and draw up a detailed optimal action plan.
The first thing to determine when planning the construction of a roof is its type. In this case, you can, of course, rely solely on your own aesthetic preferences. But this option is hardly the best choice. When determining the appropriate type of roof, it is necessary to focus on the features of the future building, its purpose, dimensions and other characteristics. It is necessary to correlate them with the characteristics various kinds roofs, and then the optimal choice will become obvious.
At the very least, you will choose the two options that best suit your building conditions, and then you can use your aesthetic preferences. So, today buildings are supplied with the following types of roofing:
- flat- the most common type used for multi-storey residential buildings;
- lean-to- simple and practical option for buildings for household purposes or non-residential premises. Often barns and garages are supplied with such roofs;
- gable- a popular and common roof. Most often, she crowns residential village houses, bathhouses. Structurally, it consists of two inclined planes connected at the top point to each other;
- four-sided, or hip- practical and original version. Differs in complexity in implementation in comparison with the above;
- attic- a distinctive feature of such a roof is that it is equipped under a residential attic. Shape and appearance may vary. It is rather difficult to make such an option. This requires elaborate drawings;
- broken line- most often this type of roof is found in the following constructive version: a gable roof with breaks on both sides, starting in the center of each side of the roof. However, a broken roof can be performed in other versions, including in the attic.
When deciding on the type of roof for your home, pay attention to what is chosen when building modern houses. Analyze your own needs. Do you need loft space? If there is a need for it, then it makes sense to deal with a more complex type of roof in execution - an attic broken line. If not, then you can always turn to the "classic" gable design.
The complexity of working with a roof is largely determined not only by the type of roof chosen, but also by how large an area it should be. For large houses, it is difficult to build a roof, for small ones it is easier. The layout also matters. The complexity of the roof structure is determined to a greater extent only by the complexity of manufacturing the rafter system.
Once you have decided on the type of construction, it's time to choose your preferred materials. The type of material also influences the rafter system for your roof. After all, any material has a weight that exerts pressure. Therefore, rafters often require additional reinforcement. It is equally important to determine how roofing material will be attached to boards and other important points.
A well-executed and reliable drawing is the key to a successful solution to the problem of roofing. It is the basis of all work. Some elements of the roof deserve to be singled out for a separate scheme, especially for those nodes that are responsible for connecting the reinforcing parts and the rafter system.
The heaviest roofing material is ceramic tiles. Of course, it is beautiful and environmentally friendly, but it requires special preparation of the building for an additional serious load. This applies not only to the rafter system, but also to the walls and foundation. Look at a few drawings that may be useful to you in the process of doing your own roofing work.
best material for rafters - this is coniferous wood, with a moisture content of 20%. It should not have any knots or blue.
To solve the issue of arranging a roof, you must have:
- waterproofing material;
- vapor barrier material;
- waterproofing film;
- thermal insulation material;
- fasteners;
- tools.
The first stage of creation truss system- this is the installation of reinforced concrete strapping over the walls. This is a mandatory step for any houses, except for log houses. Strapping is necessary to strengthen the walls and align them horizontally, creating a smooth surface.
Reinforced studs necessary for fastening the Mauerlat must be inserted into the strapping frame. Their height should be sufficient to protrude 3 cm above the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat itself is made from a bar of 20x20 mm or 150x150 mm, the purpose of which is to serve as the basis for the rafters.
Do not forget to pay enough attention to such an aspect as high-quality and reliable waterproofing. Appropriate material is placed on the strapping. As such, you can use roofing material. It is affordable and does an excellent job of protecting against moisture penetration. A Mauerlat is placed on top of it and fixed to the studs with galvanized nuts. Constantly monitor the degree of evenness of the Mauerlat laying with the help of a serviceable level.
When using wooden elements in your work, take care to ensure their durability. To do this, treat them with antiseptic compounds.
At the next stage, the so-called rafter legs are installed. The material here will be a beam of 150x150 mm. Spacers, struts, ties are created from boards of suitable sizes. The type of rafters can be hanging or inclined. It is determined by the design of the roof itself.
After installing the external rafters, you need to attach the crate. She's just nailed to the rafters. The material for it are boards 2 cm thick. Do not forget about the features of the type of roof you have chosen, because it is he who determines the design of the crate - it will be solid or with gaps.
But before the crate, one more important task must be solved - to isolate the rafters from moisture. If you plan to use the attic under living room, then additional insulation is required. Thermal insulation is laid between the rafters. Use foam or mineral wool. If you skip this important step, then later you will have to perform the same manipulations under the already assembled roof, which is rather inconvenient. Therefore, take care of this in advance.
For the living room, the insulation is placed in a double layer, each of which is at least 50 mm. The material you choose must simultaneously retain heat and perform a soundproof function. It is recommended to put vapor barrier materials on the insulation. Otherwise, there is a risk of condensation on the insulation. If you are building a roof yourself, then it makes sense to follow professional advice and instructions in detail so that the construction is of the highest quality.
The finishing line in the creation of the roof is the laying of the roofing material. Most often used slate. It is inexpensive, time-tested, durable. But today it makes sense to pay attention to more modern materials: tiles, ondulin, etc. In this regard, it is difficult to advise anything, since the properties and features of all materials are different, as well as their cost. Therefore, choose according to your own taste and according to your capabilities.
Building their dwellings, mankind has made a grass roof since ancient times. In some cases, this type of roof is called earthen. This type of roof does not present any difficulty and the construction scheme is not difficult.
There is, however, one indispensable condition: the weight of such a roof is large enough, so the roof rafters must be as reliable as possible. If structures are built from logs, beams, gun carriages, then a grassy, heavy roof is even preferable - with its additional weight, the building being erected will go through the shrinkage process much faster. Also, the crowns will close much tighter.
You can divide the varieties of grass roofing into the following types:
- Turf.
Reed.
Shingled (wooden).
Slate.
Tiled.
Copper.
How to make a grass roof
Let's highlight the main components of a grass roof.
First of all, absolutely any vegetation can be used for laying. But still better hardwood.
Next, a dense layer of earth (peat, turf) is laid, waterproofing is possible if necessary. Also, you can not do without a heater. Do not forget about drainage - it is permissible to use gravel or crushed stone as it.
Please note that the geogrid is used with a large roof slope. It makes sense to cover the drainage layer of crushed stone with a layer of geotextile.
Consider an eco-friendly way of laying a grass roof.
The construction of a grass roof is similar in most cases. This is a supporting truss structure and a crate made of unedged boards, on top of which turf was laid.
Instead of the waterproofing that is widely used today from rolled bitumen or other materials, a layer of birch bark was laid on the crate, on top of which turf was laid in two layers or the soil mixture was poured for sowing it with grass seeds.
However, before touching on the technology of laying bark and turf, it should be noted that the own weight of a green roof is about 250 kg/m2. This means that the shear load (especially on roofs with steeper slopes) can move all the grass down. To avoid this, it is essential constructive element the green roofs had fencing. Their function was traditionally performed by sod-protecting beams or boards laid along overhangs - the so-called sod holders.
At the same time, when creating a grass carpet, the construction of the roof had to ensure unhindered runoff of rainwater from the roof slopes. To do this, it was necessary not only to choose the right shape of the sod holders, but also to properly attach them to the crate.
Strips of birch bark were laid overlapping each other. In the overhang zone they were laid in 5…8 layers. At the same time, the strips released from under the fencing beam and put on it were laid with the outer side up. This was done in order to ensure effective water drainage and protect the sod holder and the end parts of the batten boards from moisture. In addition, the bark laid with the outer side up is an important decorative element green roof.
To increase the life of the roof, the rest of the bark was laid with the outer side down, since the inner side of the bark provides more effective protection of the batten from the mixture of sigumic acids contained in the soil.
To protect the turf laid on the sides of the pediment from wind and water erosion, they laid on the edges of the pediment natural stones. Later, gabled wind elements, which were used as logs, began to be used for this. They were laid so that the ends protruded above the ridge. Connected logs crosswise. And since the logs had the same thickness as the turf holders, together they formed a kind of wooden frame for the entire roof.
In another version, a windboard was used to protect the turf from erosion. They fastened it with wooden pins, and covered it with birch bark from moisture. Sometimes, instead of bark, a horizontally laid covering board was used.
One of the important elements of traditional grass roofs is a wooden gutter, which was made from boards connected to each other on screws at right angles or hollowed out from a tree trunk.
The weak point of grass roofs is openings (in particular for chimneys). To avoid water runoff along the walls of the pipe into the house, stone slabs protruding beyond the pipe were immured into its masonry.
At the same time, sheets of birch bark were placed under these slabs, diverting the flow of water to the roof. Stone slabs on the side of the slopes were arranged in steps, which contributed to a more efficient removal of rain or melt water from the pipe walls.
As a fencing element, a log is used here, supported by a thrust hook fixed under the crate. In this case, the hook, cut into the log of the upper crown, is fixed under the crate, and the round timber itself lies completely on the birch bark. So that water does not accumulate on the roof, slots are made in the sod holder for its drain.
Round timber, in turn, is also lined with birch bark. Despite the presence of such moisture protection, the sod holder still needed to be periodically replaced with a new one.
For example, when attaching a thrust hook over a crate, a space is formed between the birch bark and the sod holder, which ensures effective water drainage. And when fastening the enclosing element with the help of a dowel, special slots were provided in the sod holder for water drainage.
The solution is also interesting, when the fencing beam is attached to the side, with an indent of 5 cm from the edge of the overhang, which also ensures a quick runoff of water.
In all these cases, the sod holders are protected by birch bark. The overhang zone itself is covered with bark in several layers.
You can also apply the option of fastening the fencing beam using a powerful dowel, cut into the end part of the rafter. This method of fastening was used for roofs with hanging rafters protruding from the overhang by about 12 cm.
Often, in order to save wood, instead of logs or beams, boards 3–4 cm thick and 12–16 cm wide were used to protect the grass cover, depending on the thickness of the green roof.
To ensure water runoff, holes or cuts 3 × 3 cm in size were made on the lower edge of the board every 20 cm. On the side of contact with the turf, they were expanded, giving the shape of a funnel. Sometimes boards were installed without drain holes. In this case, they were fastened so that they protruded 2 ... 3 cm beyond the overhangs. For this, as a rule, persistent steel corners were used, which were screwed to the crate with screws.
Roof device for country house- responsible moment. Mistakes here are fraught with significant material and monetary losses, and living in a house with a bad roof is truly painful. But troubles of this kind can be avoided if you take design and execution responsibly. The ability to install the roof on your own, without trusting hired specialists, can help with this.
How to mount a roof with your own hands
The device of a reliable roofing system on a country house is the final chord of the cycle of measures for its construction. Then only the finishing work remains to achieve the realization of your dream.
Getting to the device of the roof on the house, you need to clearly understand its purpose.
- Reliable shelter of the building from the vicissitudes of the weather, which does not allow leaks.
- Thermal protection of the interior even at the lowest possible outdoor temperatures for this area.
- Harmonious arrangement of form and color solution finishing coating, corresponding to the exterior of the building frame and the landscape of the site and giving them additional charm.
Photo gallery: roofs made of various materials
classical hipped roof from a metal tile can serve up to 50 years 
A properly arranged multi-pitched roof will be reliable and durable, despite the large number of joints and junctions 
Copper roofing materials are an indicator of the taste and wealth of the owner of the house and serve for more than 100 years 
Natural tiles require reinforced sheathing, but they last a very long time and look impressive and attractive. 
Soft tiles can cover the roof of any complexity
Is it possible to install a roof with your own hands
In order to objectively understand and correctly assess your capabilities, you need to learn how to perform the following operations using various sources.
- Display the structure of the roof of the house at the level of at least the draft design.
- Calculate the need for materials for the truss system, roofing cake and finish coating.
- Determine the Mauerlat installation scheme in order to distribute the loads from the roof to the walls as much as possible and securely fasten the truss system.
- Choose the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes.
- Calculate the pitch of the rafters.
- Evaluate the need to install additional metal fasteners for the roof frame.
- To study the purpose of the crate and counter-crate and the rules for their installation.
- Clearly represent the order of installation of the layers of the roofing pie of the insulated roof.
- Understand the principles of selection and location of the roof finish, as well as methods of its fastening.
- Know the nomenclature and purpose of additional elements of the roof and the procedure for their installation.
As you can see, this list is far from complete and requires a rather serious preliminary preparation on theoretical issues. Next, you need to take care of the tool for the production of work. His set does not include anything special - these are, as a rule, ordinary manual and electrical devices that are available in the household of almost any owner of a country house.
But most importantly, you need to assess the level of your own skills in performing carpentry and roofing works. We note at once that purely theoretical knowledge is clearly not enough here. It is advisable to take part in such events several times in order to see the working methods and ways of performing individual operations, as well as their sequence.
Video: gable roof - how to make it easy and simple
Stages of roof installation
The installation of the truss system begins with the attachment of a support device called a Mauerlat.
Mauerlat installation
In private suburban construction, the mauerlat is a bar made of coniferous wood with a section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm. It performs two important functions.
- Uniform distribution of the load from the upper structure of the building to its walls.
- Formation of the base for fastening the elements of the truss system.
Thus, the mauerlat is the link between the frame of the house and its roofing system. It is laid on load-bearing walls and fastened in various ways:
- linking with wire ties, pre-laid into the walls during their laying;
The wire can be immured into the wall during its laying or inserted into specially drilled holes later.
- fastening with studs to the armored belt, if such is provided for by the design of the house;
The studs are inserted and tied to the reinforcement cage before the concrete is poured.
- installation of a mauerlat with fixation to the wall with brackets using bookmarks made of wood laid during masonry.
If in brick wall when laying, lay wooden inserts, you can attach a Mauerlat to them with metal brackets
These are the main ways of attaching the supporting base to the walls of the house.
Installation of the truss system
For the manufacture of the roof frame, various materials are used:
- a bar made of coniferous wood with transverse dimensions of 150x50 mm. For a small house, even a material with a section of 100x50 mm will be enough;
- wooden glued profiles in the form of an I-beam or a beam;
- metal profiles such as rectangular pipes or beams with a transverse dimension up to 150 mm;
- plastic profiles of various sections.
The choice of material depends on its price and availability on the market. It should be noted that wood and metal need additional anti-corrosion (for metal) or antiseptic and fire-prevention (for wood) surface treatment.
The truss system is mounted in several ways.
- Assembly directly at the installation site. The material is fed to the roof and already there, focusing on the place, the parts are produced and installed. This installation procedure allows you to continuously monitor the quality of the assembly and make the necessary adjustments in a timely manner.
One of the ways to install the truss system is to assemble it on site.
- Assembly at the bottom on a specially installed slipway. The first pair is assembled according to the drawing with careful observance of all dimensions. Subsequent rafter legs are made using the first piece as a template. Upon completion of work, a set of rafter legs is supplied to the installation site and installed there. The trusses assembled at the bottom usually include two rafters and an upper puff. This configuration provides form stability and the weight of the products available for manual lifting.
If the roof trusses are small, they can be assembled completely on the ground
- Installation of a truss system from ready-made trusses. They are ordered at specialized enterprises according to their own drawings. Delivery and (at the request of the customer) installation is carried out by the contractor's personnel. To assemble the truss system in this way, as a rule, lifting equipment is used, but the quality is guaranteed.
If roof trusses are ordered in production, they will be made perfectly accurately and with high quality.
Video: assembling rafters on the ground
Roofing pie device
The roofing cake is formed in the process of roof insulation. The question is natural - why is it necessary? It has been established that up to 25–30% of the heat received from the heating system in the house escapes through an uninsulated roof. A simple calculation shows that the costs incurred for the insulation of the upper building will pay off quickly. In addition, an uninsulated roof produces a lot of noise during rainfall, especially if it is made of metal profiles. The roofing cake, in addition to the function of insulation, successfully copes with noise absorption.
The insulating device for the roof is formed from several layers, each of which performs a specific function.
The roofing cake of an insulated roof consists of several layers laid in a strictly defined order.
vapor barrier
The purpose of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from the air coming from the living quarters into the under-roof space. The fact is that one of the layers of the roofing cake is a heater, which is a fibrous material. Moisture can accumulate in the capillaries of the insulation array, which leads to its clumping and loss of basic functional properties.
To prevent this process, diffusion films are used. They are covered with microscopic holes that can pass moisture in only one direction. Therefore, with the correct location relative to the insulation, the film protects it from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing water molecules from the inside and thus drying it.
The roofing cake begins to take shape with the installation of a vapor barrier
An effective way to use vapor barrier films for pitched roofs is their placement directly on top of the insulation. Such a device allows you to use the entire length of the rafters for insulation. But for this it is necessary to hermetically connect the individual canvases, for which adhesive tape is used.
The most popular are three-layer films made of polypropylene "Yutafol D Standard", "Yutafol D Silver" and "Yutafol D Special". For ease of installation, a colored strip is applied along the edges of the film, indicating the amount of overlap during installation. For slopes with a slope of less than 20 o, its value should be 20 cm, for steeper roofs - 10 cm. Flooring is made along the roof, starting from the bottom rows.
The release form of vapor barrier films is rolls up to 1.5 m wide and 10 m long.
insulation
When a person hears the word "roof", he creates an association with warmth and comfort in the room. This is possible only if the right insulation material is selected. The purpose of this layer is not to heat the roof, but to keep the heat generated in the house, so the key to success is its correct choice, which largely depends on the design of the roof. Otherwise General requirements to all types of this material are almost the same.
The decisive factor is the thickness of the insulation. The rules for its determination are given in SNiP 23.02.2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". In accordance with this document, it is possible to obtain the value of the thermal resistance of the structure, determined by regional coefficients, depending on climatic conditions. Using the data on the thermal conductivity of the material (certificate indicator), you can determine the thickness of the insulation in meters.
According to the types of materials, the insulation is classified as follows.
- Expanded polystyrene - the made foam plastic which is let out in plates. It has a low specific gravity and thermal conductivity. It is laid, as a rule, in several layers with overlapping joints. Used for thermal insulation flat roofs, its service life is determined by manufacturers at 50 years.
Styrofoam boards are commonly used to insulate flat roofs.
- Polyurethane foam - gas-filled plastic mass. Most often used for thermal insulation of roofs and attics. With low thermal conductivity and low weight, it has vapor barrier properties and has a long service life.
- Mineral wool. It is made from natural materials, does not burn, perfectly saves heat. Moisture absorption is low, rodents do not live in it and bacteria and insects do not develop.
Mineral wool foil insulation has high thermal insulation properties due to the heat reflecting coating
- Glass wool. This is a kind of materials made from waste from the production of glass. Such a heater is not combustible, resistant to getting wet and does not support the vital activity of rodents.
In terms of manufacturability and price indicators, mineral wool is most often used for insulation, various modifications of which are suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The most commonly used materials are Knauf (glass wool plates) and Rockwool (mineral wool), which have long gained popularity among consumers.
Finnish-made Isover roll insulation is also popular. He appeared on the Russian market one of the first and still enjoys well-deserved authority. It is applied both to roofs, and to walls.
Waterproofing
Moisture can get into the insulation layer not only from the internal space, but also from the outside. This occurs in cases where there are even small defects in the laying of the finish coating, as well as as a result of moisture condensation on its inner surface. In addition, any vapor barrier protection does not give a full guarantee against the ingress of moisture into the insulation, so it must also be removed.
To protect against these adverse events, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation and roofing material. Waterproofing films are of the following types.
Waterproofing films are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters from the bottom up. We remind you of some rules for its installation:
- the amount of overlap during laying should be 15-20 cm, some manufacturers have decided to designate the size of the overlap with color marking;
- all connections must be fastened with special perforated tape;
- the waterproofing film is fixed on the rafters with the help of a counter rail up to 50 mm thick with the formation of a gap for ventilation.
For cold roofs, it is better to use a budget option universal or diffusion film. Suitable brands such as "Yutafol D", "Izospan D", "Folder D" and others. You can buy more expensive products, but the ratio of price, quality and functionality will not be in their favor.
For an insulated roof or attic, you can use a universal or diffusion film of the same brands, but with a mandatory ventilation duct. Superdiffusion can be laid on any roof and with any type of insulation. Popular brands are "Folder", "Tyvek", "Yutavek", "Light", "Delta", "Vent" and others.
Finishing coatings for roofing
For roofing, the most different materials. However, the basic requirements for them remain unchanged.
- Sealing to ensure full protection internal premises from moisture and water in any of its manifestations.
- Quietness that protects the living space from sounds coming from the roof during heavy rainfall.
- Durability, allowing the roof to be used for at least 15, and in some cases up to 50 years. Some types of roofs (slate, ceramic tiles, copper) allow you to increase this period to hundreds of years or more.
- The total weight of the roofing system must correspond to the bearing capacity of the building frame and its foundation.
- The appearance of the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site and the house.
In private housing construction, metal roofing is quite popular.
- Decking. It is made of galvanized sheet metal 0.45–0.7 mm thick by profiling, coated with a layer of zinc in its commercial form. In some cases, a paint or plastic coating is applied to the surface, which increases the service life and appearance products.
- Metal tile. It is made from the same material by stamping in a form that imitates natural tiles. Such roofing is always supplied with an additional protective layer of resistant paint or plastic.
- Fake roof. It consists of smooth galvanized sheets connected with a special seam - a fold.
- Coatings from non-ferrous metals - aluminum and copper. They can be shaped like tile shingles, or produced in the form flat sheets for folded roofs.
Photo gallery: varieties of metal roofing materials
A beautiful and durable roof for a building of any type is obtained from a metal tile. 
The roof of the house from corrugated board will be reliable, durable and inexpensive 
At correct device seam roof serves as a connecting seam for several decades 
Roofing made of copper tiles is difficult to fit, but it looks very beautiful and lasts more than 100 years.
Other roofing materials are also used.
- Asbestos slate - not so long ago, he was the leader in the list of roofing materials. Recently, its positions have been pushed back by other types of materials. Today, slate is most often used to cover secondary buildings, although it has fairly high consumer properties.
Traditional asbestos slate is still a popular roofing material.
- Tiles are ceramic, molded from certain types of clay and fired in kilns. The material has high strength and is easy to install due to its small size. Its only drawback is its heavy weight, requiring a fairly solid foundation. Service life in some cases exceeds 50 years.
Traditional ceramic material allows you to get a beautiful, reliable and durable roof
- Cement-sand and concrete tiles are produced in formats close to ceramic counterparts and have similar mechanical and consumer properties. It can be dyed in various colors by adding dyes to the solution during the production process. A clear disadvantage of such material is its heavy weight.
Cement-sand tiles look very beautiful and serve for a long time, but require a powerful truss system due to the large weight
- Roof coverings from composite materials, such as shingles "Shinglas" or ondulin - are made from cellulose with the addition of fibrous materials. In the production process, they are impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds, which makes the material resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. The advantage of this topcoat is its low weight. The service life is determined at least 30 years, although confirmation of this fact can be obtained a little later.
- For low-pitched and flat roofs, welded roofing from rolled materials is often used. The basis for their manufacture are polymer meshes or fiberglass. For installation, the lower surface of the web is heated with a gas-flame burner and glued to the prepared surface. The top layer is covered with a topping of granite, basalt or slate chips. The peculiarity is the need for regular inspection and maintenance of the roof to identify and eliminate damage. The service life of such roofs does not exceed 10 years. The main types of rolled materials on the Russian market are TechnoNIKOL, Uniflex, Bikrost.
Welded roll materials are usually used for flat and low pitched roofs.
- Liquid roofs - are made from molten bitumen or compounds such as liquid rubber by direct pouring onto the prepared surface. Distribution over the surface is carried out with special scrapers. The layer thickness should not exceed two millimeters. The result is a continuous coating without seams and joints.
The self-leveling roof is a continuous sealed roofing carpet
From among the purely natural materials for the finishing coating of roofs, one can distinguish such as shale, straw and reeds, as well as wooden shingles. They are rarely used and are not competitive in the market.
Features of installation of various types and roof units
The roof covering must be important features that were mentioned above:
- tightness;
- sufficient strength;
- UV resistance;
- compliance with climatic conditions.
Flexible roof device
These conditions are fully met by flexible tiles, while being much cheaper than other materials. Before styling shingles geotextiles should be laid on the crate in order to organize high-quality drainage. The use of this coating is possible for buildings of any purpose and for any form of roofing.
The dimensions of the tile sheet are 1.0x0.33 m, it is made of fiberglass impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds with the addition of various modifiers and plasticizers. The outer surface is covered with a protective layer of various types of crumbs, which gives it immunity to ultraviolet radiation.
Video: installation of shingles
Hard roof device
Rigid roofs can be made from various materials:
- corrugated board;
- metal tile;
- slate;
- sheet coating in the form of galvanized or non-ferrous metals.
The installation process of the finish coating may look like this.
- Overhang formation. To do this, fillies (extensions) are stuffed along each rafter leg, the cord is pulled between the extreme ends and the fillies are trimmed along one line.
- Installation of waterproofing. The film is laid at a right angle to the rafters in the direction from the bottom up and fixed with counter-latticing bars.
- Lathing installation. It is laid from a board 25x100 or 25x150 mm. For profiled materials, the crate is made sparse. At the same time, at a distance of 400–500 mm from the ridge, it is continuous.
Under hard coatings, the crate is sparse everywhere, except for the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge and valleys
- Finishing coat. It is made from any corner of the roof also in the direction from the bottom up. The amount of overlap is calculated in advance, it should not be less than recommended for the type of coating used. First, shelter is performed with the first row until the ridge is reached, after which the installation of the second and subsequent rows begins in the same order. Coating materials are fastened in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Installation of ridge slats and design of overhangs.
For filing cornice overhangs, it is best to use plastic or metal spotlights with perforations for ventilation of the under-roof space
Each coating has its own mounting methods and appropriate fasteners. Additional elements of the roof are installed during installation.
Video: do-it-yourself metal profile installation
Installation of a cold roof
Installing a cold roof on a house is appropriate in areas where temperature differences are small, and heating season short This performs the following operations.
Installation of roofing accessories
Roof accessories include the following products.
- Snow guards. They are fences in the form of barriers made of profile metal to retain snow on the roof slopes. Their purpose is to prevent spontaneous descent of snow masses, as a result of which injury to people is possible. Snow guards are attached to the roof finish on special stands. For metal tiles, these parts have a special shape.
Snow guards prevent spontaneous snow from falling off the roof in winter
- Stationary roof ladders. They are attached to the wall of the house (vertical part) and fixed on the ridge (pitched part). They are used when inspecting the roof, performing current repair, as well as for the maintenance of chimneys.
Roof ladders are designed for safe climbing to and from the roof.
- Roof skates. They are included in the package of delivery of the finishing coating, designed for installation at the intersection of roof slopes.
- Roof walkways, which, like ladders, are necessary for moving along the roof during inspections, repairs and other operations at height.
Roof walkways ensure safe work at heights
- Roof railings. They are installed along the perimeter of the slopes and are intended to prevent people from falling during work on the roof. They are used on the roofs of houses with two floors and above.
Roof gutters
Gutters are an important part of the roof structure, as their function is to collect water from the roof, including rain, melt and condensate. They are installed between water intake funnels.
There are two ways to install gutters.
- Hanging gutters are mounted on top of the cornice paintings on special hooks.
- Wall-mounted mounted on brackets attached to the wall.
Work on the installation of gutters is carried out after the completion of the design of overhangs. Regardless of the installation method, the gutters work equally well on roofs with any slope angle.
Video: installing gutters
Typical mistakes when installing a roof
Inexperienced builders often make mistakes that can later lead to significant costs.
- The absence of an armored belt over the walls of foam concrete blocks. Consequences - as a result of moistening of foam concrete and the impact of concentrated loads from the truss system, the wall is destroyed at the reference points, the roof warps with a violation of the tightness of the coating.
- Ignoring the need to attach the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. As a result of wind loads roof structure can be shifted or carried away at extreme magnitudes of impact. Violated the requirements of paragraphs 5.1 and 7.1 of SNiP 31.02.2001.
- Incorrect arrangement or lack of ventilation ducts. Ventilation is required for rooms with high humidity air - toilets, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. In its absence, the development of fungal and putrefactive formations that contribute to the destruction load-bearing structures Houses. In addition, it negatively affects the health of residents.
- Incorrect execution of the places where the rafter legs rest on the Mauerlat due to the lack of a support platform in the form of an oblique cut. As a result, there is an uncontrolled displacement of the rafter legs and deformation of the entire rafter system. There is a violation of paragraphs 5.9 and 6.16 of SNiP II-25-80. The consequences are the displacement of the rafter legs and the destruction of the roof completely.
- No rafters. Their purpose is to create a rigid triangle in roof trusses. In the absence of puffs, the roof moves apart and collapses. Ceiling transfers can be used as these elements.
This list can be continued for a long time. It is necessary to understand one circumstance - it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of the agreed and approved project.
When planning work on arranging the roof, you need to take care of the problems that may arise during its operation.
- Purchase some spare fasteners so that you can replace damaged parts.
- Buy a small can of paint of the appropriate color to repair damage to the protective layer.
- For the first time after installation, at least once a month, inspect the roof surface for damage. Detected defects must be eliminated immediately, preventing their development. This is especially true for poured and built-up roofs.
In order for the operation of the roof to be long and trouble-free, it needs constant attention, as well as a small repair kit for timely intervention if necessary.
In principle, there is nothing super complicated in installing a roof with your own hands. You just need to know the basic rules for performing work and clearly understand the mechanics of the roofing system. It is important to start right, that is, to create a draft design. After that, it is necessary to show it to a specialist designer and eliminate all comments. It should also be understood that independent production roofing does not mean doing all the work alone.
Everything more people strive to realize their innermost dream - to get out of the high-rise urban development in their own home. Acquired suburban area quickly turns into a construction site. And, in accordance with the natural mentality of most Russian men, the construction of a new home is very often carried out on their own. And, many of the amateur craftsmen do not have much experience in this area at all, they learn literally on the go, they are looking for useful and reliable information in available sources, including on the pages Internet resources dedicated to construction. We hope that our portal will provide them with serious assistance in this matter.
So, after the walls of the house are raised on a reliable foundation, it is necessary, without delaying this, to proceed to the creation of a roof and roofing flooring. There can be many options here. And one of the most commonly used is a gable roof structure. It is not as complicated in calculations and installation as some others, that is, even a novice builder should cope with it. Therefore, the topic of this publication is the construction of the roof of a private house with your own hands using the example of a gable truss system with
It should immediately be noted that the article does not give a ready-made "recipe". The goal is to demonstrate the principles of the calculation gable roof and the sequence of its construction. And a master with an appropriate estimate should already bring the recommendations received to his own, specific construction conditions.
General information about the design of gable roofs
The basic design principle of a gable roof is probably clear from its name. The roof of such a roof forms two planes converging along the ridge line and resting on the long walls of the house (along the cornice lines). From the end sides, the roof is limited by vertical gable walls. As a rule, both along the line of cornices and along the pediment, the roofing is somewhat released outside, outside the building in plan, so that overhangs are formed that protect the walls from direct precipitation.
Most often, the slopes have a symmetrical shape. Sometimes they resort to asymmetry, when the slopes are located at different angles to the horizon and, accordingly, differ in their length. But these are isolated cases, and will not be considered in this publication.
The height of the roof in the ridge, that is, the steepness of the slopes, can be different - it all depends on the planned use of the attic, the architectural ideas of the owners, and the type of roofing used.
Gable roofs have proven their high reliability. And the relative simplicity of the design makes them so popular among private developers.
The external similarity of gable roofs does not at all mean the uniformity of the design of their truss systems. It is precisely in this matter that there can be significant differences, depending both on the size of the building and on its design features.
According to the principle of structure, the truss systems of gable roofs can be divided into two groups:
- If the rafters rest on the outer walls of the building and are interconnected in a ridge knot, then such a system is called a hanging system.
To give additional rigidity to such a design, the rafter legs of each pair are reinforced with horizontal puffs (contractions). Vertical racks supported by floor beams, or diagonally mounted struts can also be used.
- In the case when the design of the house assumes the presence of a main wall inside the building, a layered truss system is often used. The name speaks for itself - the legs "lean" on the racks, which, in turn, rest on a bed laid along upper end of the capital internal walls. And, this wall can be located both in the center and offset from it. and for large buildings, two can be used as supports interior wall. Several examples of layered systems are shown in the illustration below.
- However, a kind of "hybrid" of both systems is often used. The rafters in these cases, even without the presence of an internal partition, also receive support on the central post in the ridge assembly, which, in turn, rests on powerful floor beams or on horizontal puffs between the rafter legs.
In any of the systems, especially in cases where the rafter legs are of considerable length, additional reinforcement elements are used. This is necessary to exclude the possibility of deflection of the beam or even its fracture under the action of loads. And the loads here will be considerable. First of all, it is static, due to the weight of the truss system itself, lathing, roofing and its insulation, if it is provided for by the project. Plus, there are large variable loads, among which wind and snow come out on top. Therefore, they strive to provide the necessary number of support points for the rafter legs in order to prevent possible deformation.
Some of their reinforcement elements are shown in the design diagrams of the truss system:
The illustration above shows an example of a layered truss system:
1 - Mauerlat. Usually this is a bar rigidly fixed on the upper end of the outer walls of the building. It serves as a support and base for securing the lower part of the rafter legs.
2 - Lezhen. A bar attached to the internal partition of a building.
3 - Rack (another name is the headstock). Vertical support going from the bed to the ridge run.
4 - Skate run. A beam or board that connects the central posts and serves as the basis for securing the upper ends of the rafter legs.
5 - Rafter legs.
6 - Struts. These are additional reinforcement elements, through which you can reduce the free span of the rafter leg, that is, create additional support points for it.
7 - Lathing, which must match the selected roofing.
Prices for fasteners for rafters
fasteners for rafters
In hanging-type systems, reinforcement is made by installing horizontal puffs (pos. 7), which rigidly connect opposite rafter legs, and thereby reduce the bursting load acting on the walls of the building. There may be several such delays. For example, one is installed at the bottom, closer to the Mauerlat level or even almost flush with it. And the second is closer to the ridge knot (e is often also called a crossbar).
With a large length of rafters, it may also be necessary to use vertical racks (pos. 3) or diagonal struts (pos. 6), and often both of these elements in combination. They can be supported by floor beams (pos. 9), as shown in the illustration.
It should be correctly understood that the shown schemes are not a dogma at all. There are other designs of truss systems. For example, it is often used to fasten the lower part of the rafter legs not to the Mauerlat, but to the floor beams that are extended beyond the walls of the house. Thus, the necessary
In the roofs of large houses, more than complex schemes. For example, the rafters are connected by additional longitudinal runs, which, in turn, are supported by vertical posts or struts. But it is hardly reasonable to take on the creation of such complex systems without having well-established experience in this area. Therefore, we confine ourselves to the construction of fairly simple gable roofs.
Carrying out calculations of the parameters of a gable roof
The construction of the truss system and the arrangement of the roof on its basis should always begin with the necessary calculations. What are the tasks involved?
- First of all, it is necessary to deal with the ratio "ridge height - steepness of the roof slopes."
- After that, it will be possible to accurately calculate the length of the rafter legs, both “clean” and full, that is, taking into account the planned cornice overhangs.
- The length of the rafters and the estimated step from the installation will make it possible to determine the cross section of the material suitable for their manufacture, taking into account the expected roof loads. Or, on the contrary, based on the available material, choose the optimal step and place additional support points - by installing the reinforcement elements mentioned above.
The listed parameters will allow you to draw up a diagram and a drawing of the truss system as accurately as possible, correctly position all its elements. According to the existing scheme, it will be much easier to calculate how much and what material is required for installation.
- You will need to find out the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slopes. This is necessary for the purchase of roofing material, hydro - and vapor barrier membranes, insulation, if thermal insulation of the roof is planned. In addition, the area parameter is also important for determining the amount of material for arranging the lathing for the selected roofing.
To make it clearer during the presentation of the calculation procedure, the main quantities are schematically shown in the illustration below:
D- the width of the house (the size of its gable wall);
VC- the height of the roof in the ridge above the plane of the Mauerlat or floor beams, depending on what the lower ends of the rafter legs will be attached to;
but- the angle of steepness of the roof slopes;
FROM- working length of the rafter leg, from the ridge to the Mauerlat;
∆C- elongation of the rafter leg to form the planned cornice overhang;
W- installation step of the rafter legs.
Let's start with the above questions in order.
The ratio of the steepness of the slopes and the height of the roof ridge
These two quantities are closely related. AND tothem calculation can be approached with various parties, taking some or other criteria as initial ones.
- For example, the owners see their house with a high roof, something vaguely reminiscent of Gothic style architecture. It is clear that with this approach, the height of the roof in the ridge increases sharply and, accordingly, the steepness of the slopes. True, it should not be forgotten that such roofs experience maximum wind loads, due to their pronounced “sail”. But the snow on such slopes will practically not linger. So it is worth considering these two factors initially. Perhaps, for an area closed from the winds, but with a predominance of snowy winters, this option will generally be the most acceptable.
Steep slopes and a high ridge are pronounced - snow does not linger on such a roof at all, but the effect of the wind becomes maximum But do not forget that the longer the rafter legs, the more difficult the system itself will be in arranging, which will require a lot of reinforcing parts.
- Another consideration to make the roof higher very often becomes the desire to have a functional attic space, up to equipping it with a full-fledged living room.
For attic space, of course, a broken truss system is preferable. But if, nevertheless, a gable is planned, then a lot of space is eaten up by corner zones along the line connecting the rafters with a Mauerlat. It is necessary to increase the steepness of the slopes (see above).
True, and here there may be an acceptable solution. For example, the mauerlat is not located at the level of the ceiling, as in the "classic" version, but on the side walls, which are deliberately raised above the ceiling to a certain height. Then, even with a large steepness of the slopes, and without much complication of the design of the system, magnon can achieve very spacious attic rooms.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tile
By the way, it is this option that will be considered below, when the story goes about the installation of the truss system.
- It happens that the owners of the future home, on the contrary, make a decision about the minimum angles of roof slope. This may be due to material saving structures, lack of usable attic space, local conditions such as very windy but not particularly snowy terrain.
True, with this approach, we must not forget that any roofing has certain lower limits for the steepness of the slopes. For example, if it is planned to lay piece tiles, then it is necessary to ensure a steepness angle of at least 20, and for some models even 30 degrees. So if the plans already have one or another roofing, its characteristics should be correlated with the height and steepness of the roof.
So, how is the calculation carried out. As a constant value - a constant, we have the width of the house along the gable wall ( D). Using the well-known trigonometric formula, it is easy to find the height ( VC), based on the planned steepness of the slopes (angle but).
Sun \u003d 0.5 × D × tg a
It is clear that half the width of the building is taken to calculate a symmetrical gable roof, that is 0.5 ×D.
One more nuance. When calculating according to this ratio, the height difference between the heights of the ridge point and the Mauerlat plane is taken as the height. That is, the excess over the attic floor is far from always meant - this should be borne in mind.
The above formula is included in the proposed calculator.
Calculator of the ratio of the steepness of the slopes of a gable roof and the height of its ridge
Can an ordinary home master build the roof of a house with his own hands? At first glance, the task seems rather complicated, but after practicing at my own dacha, I realized that everything is real. I will show you step by step and tell you how to make a roof with your own hands, what components it consists of and what roofs are in general in private houses.
Briefly about the types of roofs and general terminology
Before making a roof, you need to figure out what structures exist and what their main elements are called. Otherwise, you will not understand anything in the specialized literature, plus it will be difficult for you to talk with sellers in a store or market.
Which design is better to stay
| Roof types | Short description |
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Shed.
The easiest, most affordable and economical option in terms of materials. The problem is that it is not suitable for medium and large houses. More often shed roof mounted on garages, sheds and other outbuildings. |
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gable or tongs. A traditional and rather comfortable design that fits any home with a rectangular or square "box". Now more than half of the owners of private houses and cottages choose a gable roof. |
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Shatrovaya.
The hipped roof looks like a tetrahedral pyramid, consisting of isosceles triangles with a common apex. Now it is rare, the main reason lies in the complexity of the beam-pulling system on which this design is based. |
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Chetyrekhskatnaya or hip. This design is also based on the beam-tightening system, but is more common than the hipped one. Fans of these types of roofs should not be taken. |
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Half hip.
In the classic version, the half-hip roof is no longer used. The structure is assembled according to a gable truss scheme using puffs and “fillies” bent upwards. |
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Mnogoskatnaya.
Of all the existing multi-pitched roof is considered one of the most complex structures. It is installed only on buildings with an "original" layout or houses with several extensions. Only highly qualified professionals can work with such roofs. |
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Attic.
This type of roof is only slightly inferior in popularity to the gable construction. People are attracted to living attic space. DIY mansard roof You can build, but you need some experience, so it's better to start with a gable roof. |
After analyzing the popular types of structures, I realized that for an amateur, installation would be the best solution. gable roof.
General terminology
- Ribs- all external corners and bends, except for the upper edge, are called ribs;
- Valva- front plane in a multi-pitched roof;
- endova- internal angle between adjacent planes on roofs with several slopes;
- Skate- the upper edge of the roof, on which the slopes converge. There is no ridge on the tent and single-slope structure;
- dormer window- a small triangular or spherical cut into the roof slope with a window frame inside. Mounted more for decoration, functional load on dormers few. Fans of such designs are better off not messing with;
- Eaves overhang- this is a cut of the lower part of the roof, more precisely, everything that is outside the wall. It is to the edge of the cornice that rain drains are attached;
- Gable- a vertical sector on the facade of the building located between the slopes of the roof;
- Gable overhang- lateral inclined cut of the roof plane.
Now let's see what they are called internal structures roofs.
- Mauerlat- a support beam that is mounted on the walls around the perimeter of the box of the house, it can also be called the foundation of the roof. The cross section depends on the weight of the roof and the dimensions of the house, most often it ranges from 100x100 mm to 200x200 mm;
- rafter legs- perhaps the main structural element, the entire roof rests on them. In a gable roof, they are joined at an angle and form a stable isosceles triangle. For medium houses, beams of 50x150 mm are taken, and in large houses 100x150 mm or 100x200 mm;
- Rack - vertical beam supporting rafter legs. May be based on ceiling beams or beds;
- lying down- this is a kind of Mauerlat, only the beds are installed not around the perimeter of the box, but on the walls of a large house. These elements are used only in the "layered" system, which I will mention later;
- puff or crossbar - a horizontal beam that connects two adjacent rafter legs of a gable roof and forms an isosceles triangle with them, thereby increasing the strength of the entire structure;
- Run- mounted in the case when puffs are not installed on all rafter pairs. Runs are needed for additional support for rafter legs and forest savings;
- ridge beam- (it is not indicated on this diagram) is mounted horizontally and installed at the top of the gable roof directly under the connection of the rafter legs or between the rafter legs.
Preparation and installation of a gable structure
At the preparation stage, you make a calculation of the truss system, draw a sketch or drawing, and then purchase the material and prepare the tool.
Roof calculation
The first thing you need to know is the angle of the roof plane. All pitched systems are divided into 3 types:
- Flat roofs - in them the angle of inclination does not exceed 5º. IN residential buildings practically do not meet;
- Roofs with an average slope - here the slope should be from 5º to 30º. Well suited for steppe regions where there are strong winds and little snow;
- Roofs with a steep slope - these include all slopes with a slope of more than 30º. These roofs are placed in areas with snowy winters, because the steeper the slope, the faster the snow will come off it.
As for the calculations themselves, here you need to divide the height of the roof from attic floor to the ridge, half the length of the span along the horizon. If you want to get the value as a percentage, then multiply the result by 100%.
| Illustration | The difference between a layered system and a suspended one |
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suspension system.
The rafters in this system are installed only on the Mauerlat between the bearing walls. If the rafters are supported by racks, then the racks are attached to the ceiling beams. |
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Layered system.
This system differs from the suspended one in that the racks supporting the rafters are based both on load-bearing walls, and on the walls inside the house. |
Tools and materials
From the tool you will need:
- Axe;
- Hand saw wood and metal;
- Chainsaw or an electric saw;
- Hammer;
- Plane;
- Drill;
- screwdriver;
- Open end wrench set.
- Roulette, level, plumb.
It is advisable to knock down at least 1 stand from the boards for working at height, popularly referred to as the "goat".
Materials:
- Beam under rafter legs- the most common section is 50x150 mm;
- Beam under Mauerlat- you can take a solid beam or assemble it from the material under the rafter legs. In both cases, the price is about the same;
- Beam under puffs, runs and racks- I took a bar 50x50 mm, but you can use a rafter beam 50x150 mm;
- Bars for counter battens- standard section 30x40 mm;
- board for roof lathing - it is selected for roofing material, the most common option is unedged board;
- metal studs with thread and nuts to them - section 12–14 mm;
- Mounting brackets and plates- sold ready-made with holes for self-tapping screws;
- self-tapping screws
- Nails- in assortment starting from length 50 mm and more;
- Metal staples- are made of reinforcement or rolled products with a thickness of 10 mm or more.
Mauerlat installation
| Illustrations | Operating procedure |
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Arrangement of a block base.
If the house is block (brick, cinder block), then under the Mauerlat you need to pour a concrete reinforced belt over the wall. The height of the belt is 250–300 mm, the width of the belt is equal to the thickness of the wall. You make a wooden formwork, lay a reinforcing cage inside and fill everything with concrete. |
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Stud bookmark.
Even before pouring concrete, it is necessary to vertically install a number of threaded studs or simply pieces of reinforcement in the center of the future strapping with a step of 0.6–1 m. Mauerlat will then be attached to them. In houses made of aerated concrete, a concrete reinforced belt is poured directly into the U-shaped shaped gas blocks. |
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Mauerlat in wooden house
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There is no Mauerlat as such in wooden houses; its function is performed by a beam or a log of the upper trim. |
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Aligning the base.
Under the Mauerlat, the base should be perfectly flat, if at first you missed this moment, then you will need to level it before laying. The base can be leveled with a cement-sand mortar or glue for gas blocks (glue is used in houses made of aerated concrete). |
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We equip waterproofing.
The beam should not be in direct contact with concrete, therefore, before laying the Mauerlat, we cover the roofing material on top, preferably in 2 layers. |
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Beam installation.
We drill holes in the Mauerlat for the studs embedded in the wall, put the beam on the studs and pull it to the wall. Be sure to place a wide washer on top and lock the mount. A solid beam is joined into half a tree, that is, make a cutout as in the photo, join two sectors and drive 5–7 long screws or nails on top. If the Mauerlat is recruited from rafter bars, then they are simply stacked apart and fastened with self-tapping screws. |
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Mauerlat.
There are cases when the Mauerlat is assembled from pieces laid between the floor beams, but the strength of this design is much lower, plus you will need 2 times more anchors for fastening. |
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Wood processing.
Absolutely all the wood that goes to the construction of the roof must be treated at least 2 times with antiseptics and flame retardants, otherwise the roof will stand for no more than 10-15 years, then it will be eaten by bugs. |
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Wood moisture.
It is impossible to make a roof from a freshly sawn forest, in the process of drying under load, beams and boards may lead or they will begin to crack. To reduce costs, you can take freshly cut wood in advance and stack it in piles under a canopy, the wood will dry out during the season, the laying order is shown in the diagram on the left. |
Installation of the truss structure
| Illustrations | Operating procedure |
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Installing the end rafters.
The first are 2 triangles at the edges. To keep them from wobbling, I reinforced both triangles with a temporary stand and a diagonal brace. In addition, I also fixed the temporary vertical rack with two boards diagonally. |
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Starting mounts for rafters.
I installed and fixed on the Mauerlat metal corners bars 50x150 mm. The bars are cut at an angle of inclination of the roof.
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Fixing rafters from below.
As the rafter legs are installed, the base of the beam is clamped with the same stop and fastened with self-tapping screws. Later, in addition to self-tapping screws, I plan to tighten this entire structure with a 12 mm through stud. |
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Additional fixation.
In principle, such fasteners are enough, but to be sure, I decided to support the rafter leg with triangles from below. |
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On the extreme rafter triangles, I put 2 metal corners from the inside. A metal plate is screwed on the outside, and then the pediment will be sheathed on top with a 25 mm board and siding. |
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Gain. In addition, 1 m from the Mauerlat to the extreme rafters, I fixed additional support racks. |
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ridge beam.
From above, I launched a ridge beam, for this I fixed 2 puffs (crossbars) with a gap of 150 mm on the rafters, inserted a beam between them and fixed it with metal corners on self-tapping screws. |
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Building. The ridge beam came out longer than the rafter leg, so it had to be increased. I attached 2 linings from the same beam on the sides and pulled it all off on both sides with 12 mm studs. |
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Fixing rafters from above.
My rafters turned out to be 6 m each, and the entire span was 7 m wide. At the top point, the load is solid, especially in the extreme triangles, so I cut out the lining from a 5 mm thick steel sheet, drilled them and pulled them together with five studs. |
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Fastening puffs(crossbars). Intermediate crossbars on the extreme rafter triangles are inserted inward and fixed metal plates at both sides. |
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Hairpins. All other rafter triangles are fastened with two puffs (one puff on each side). On the rafters, the puffs are fixed with two studs and four self-tapping screws. |
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We pull the cord.
After the final installation of the extreme rafter triangles, a cord is pulled between them. This landmark will help us set all the other rafters in the same plane. |
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Planting rafters.
In my case, each rafter at the connection point with the Mauerlat was cut, as shown in the photo. But this is not the only option for connecting the rafter leg to the Mauerlat. |
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Rafter landing options.
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Docking in a wooden house.
In a wooden house, the rafters cannot be rigidly attached to the Mauerlat, they will warp when shrinking. For fixing, a floating mount is used here, the photo on the left shows how it works. |
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Filly.
My cornice overhang turned out to be a continuation of the rafters. If the length of the rafters is not enough, then they rest against the Mauerlat or extended floor beams, and the cornice overhang is increased by the so-called "fillies". Usually these are bars with a section of 50x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws. Each such bar should overlap the rafters for at least half a meter and hang over the wall for the same distance. |
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truss system.
The assembly of the truss system is over, now I will show you how to properly mount the roof sheathing. |
Roof installation rules
| Illustrations | Operating procedure |
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We mount a drip.
The first to be mounted on the edge of the gable overhang is a “dropper” - a corner made of a thin metal sheet, which is needed to seal the cut. To do this, I cut niches in the rafters and stuff a 25x150 mm board into them on both sides, so that I get an angle. On that outer corner drip is attached with self-tapping screws. |
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Barrier for thermal insulation.
A barrier is inserted and fixed between the rafters parallel to the wall, it will not allow the internal roofing thermal insulation to slide down. I made the barrier from a board 25x150 mm. The board is attached at 3 points to self-tapping screws, along the edges to the rafters and below to the Mauerlat. Self-tapping screws are driven at an angle. |
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We glue the tape.
In order for the waterproofing membrane to fit snugly against the dropper, I first glue the “K2” butyl rubber tape on the edge, and glue double-sided tape on it. |
Membrane laying.
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Control grille.
As soon as one strip of the membrane is fixed, we begin to fasten the counter-lattice. I used a 30x40 mm bar and screwed it to the rafters with 80x5 mm self-tapping screws.
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Seal.
At the bottom of the bars of the counter-lattice, I glued strips of cross-linked polyethylene 3 mm thick, on one side this tape has an adhesive layer. With such a seal, the bar holds the membrane along the entire line of contact, moisture cannot penetrate under the bar, plus the staples from the stapler are closed. |
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Lathing fastening.
The step of the outer crate depends on what type of roof you have, in my case a metal tile will be mounted, so I fill the board with a step of 300 mm. Board thickness 20–25 mm. The next strip of the membrane is rolled out and attached to the previous one. Marks are visible in the photo, the edge of the next tape will pass along these marks. Plus, the joint is glued with double-sided tape. I fastened the outer crate with 100x5 mm self-tapping screws and additionally nailed 120 mm with nails. |
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Ridge waterproofing.
When waterproofing the ridge, the membrane must be wound in a single sheet under the counter-lattice. I did an overlap of 350 mm on each side, according to the rules, 200 mm is enough. |
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Chimney.
It is advisable to remove the chimney even before you begin to install the waterproofing, so it will be convenient for you to bypass it. |
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Finished roof.
I decided to make the roof of the house out of metal tiles. One of standard sizes a sheet of metal tile 6 m, just under this size, I had rafters made. You can choose any other type of roof, by the way, the most affordable option this is slate, but it will have to be changed in 10-15 years. |
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Warming.
You can insulate the roof in different ways, I laid dense slabs of mineral wool between the beams, and sewed everything up with a layer of vapor barrier on top and stuffed the lining. Instead of cotton wool, foam boards can be used, but this insulation does not let air through.
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Output
Perhaps that detailed instructions, which I painted above, and is not ideal, but I succeeded, which means that you will succeed too. The video in this article will help you understand this topic in more detail. If you have any questions, write in the comments, such a discussion will benefit everyone.
